FSM JS16 Jamestown Water Stop

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

For the first Modeler's Forum Contest I chose the last of the FSM kits until the next of the FSM kits is released, JS16 Jamestown Water Stop.



scroll from side to side for a complete view of the photo(s)

Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

First step is to prime the castings included in the kit.



There are some 80+ castings in this kit.

The instructions call for the modeler to use Floquil Earth as the primer for the castings. Well, they are not making that anymore. The instructions make a note of this and suggest Krylon spray paints as a substitute. I am using Rustoleum Camouflage paint. I have found that the Rustloleum is a very close match to the Floquil Earth spray paint. Plus, the Rustoleum is way cheaper and it dries so much faster than the Floquil.

Here are a few castings after getting primed.



Priming with a flat tan like the Rustoleum khaki or Floquil Earth makes it easier to simulate wood on these metal castings.

scroll from side to side for a complete view of the photo(s)

Jaime

[ak-milw]

I will have to agree with you on the camo paint.Another nice thing is that it works on plastic too.

[Dave K.]

Gotta love George's castings. I, too, have used the Krylon camo. Good stuff.

[robertseckler]

Jamie

Good Luck

Nice start

Keep posting pictures

Well w/ you this comment was not required

Coffee has not kicked in yet!!

Robert

[NEMMRRC]

First step in building the structures is to paint one side of the 5 walls of the handcar shed/water tank shed with Grimy Black. You could use any old black because later on the instructions suggest how to make the black look like tar paper.



Because I used a water soluble paint, I had to weigh down the parts to keep them from warping. Once the Grimy Black was dry I stained the reverse side with black alcohol and India ink stain.









Here you begin to see how the Grimy Black (or other black of your choice) is turned into tar paper under battens by rubbing some tan weathering chalks/powders. I used a shade of umber on my kit.



Before and After.



The walls are then glued together.





Jaime

[bparrish]

I don't know .......... a guy with a bench that organized  ! ! ! !

How do you get stuff done and find things ?

see ya
Bob

[Jerry]

Jaime a very nice start.

Are you keeping time on this one??

Jerry

[S&S RR]

Jaime

Looking good! I have a question for you - why are your pictures displaying in a much larger format than the one's I'm posting?  I'm sizing to the full 1024.

[Dave K.]

Good to see you off and running. You do great threads. Ditto John's question about the pix size.

Dave K.

[NEMMRRC]

The instructions provide guidance for siting the building on its base. The base being the base for the whole of the diorama. I used a piece of Gatorfoam for the diorama base. There is a template provided to help locate the track for the little handcar stored in the Pump House. This template also aids the modeler in placing the floorboards correctly. One is to cut out the template and transfer its dimensions to the diorama base. The whole diorama is roughly 5.5 in x 14.5 in.



I then took some code 83 rail and glued it to the diorama base directly using Beacon's 3-in-1 adhesive (www.beaconadhesives.com/cgthree.html). As instructed in the kit's instructions, I used the little handcar to gauge the track properly.



If you plan to put this kit on your layout, you need to consider for your track height and adjust the floor level accordingly.





Since I have yet to build the roof for this building, I considered that some light inside the detailed pump house would help show off the interior. I decided to contact Bill Sartore at Microlumina and asked him if he could help me set up an LED Lighting rig for the kit. He agreed to help so I'll show later how I used the LED lighting.

Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

I don't know .......... a guy with a bench that organized  ! ! ! !

How do you get stuff done and find things ?

see ya
Bob

I'm trying a new approach to modeling. I clear my workbench completely before I start a build. I then place on my workbench only what is needed for the build as it is needed. When I begin scenery I repeat this process so I have only the scenery materials required on the workbench. So far I am liking this method. There is one drawback, one needs a staging area outside the workbench for all the tools and materials before they are needed.

Are you keeping time on this one??

Jerry

No.

Jaime

Looking good! I have a question for you - why are your pictures displaying in a much larger format than the one's I'm posting?  I'm sizing to the full 1024.

I'm linking my photos from my website. I surmise the forum's software is not clever enough to resize those photos in the post (as opposed to photos uploaded to the forum as attachments) and instead displays them full size. I do this so I can insert my photos in the narrative rather than have all the photos show up at the bottom of the post as attachments.

Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

There is a water pump and boiler that goes inside the Pump House. To "build" these is a loose term because the water pump and boiler are two separate metal castings included in the kit. One is to take some brass wire included in the kit and fashion all the plumbing that is glued to the castings. One then paints the whole affair and sets it on top of a small base painted to simulate concrete.

The castings, the plumbing and the template needed to fit it all inside the pump house.



How it all fits inside the Pump House once built.





And how it all ends up looking once painted.





Jaime

[Jerry]

Nice job Jaime.  Your coloring is great just enough weathering to make them realistic.

Jerry

[ak-milw]

looking good!!