American Model Builders Laser Art 85' Wood Roundhouse

Started by Oldguy, July 24, 2019, 10:19:55 PM

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deemery

When I built my roundhouse, I spent a lot of time mulling over and getting the geometry with the turntable correct.  I mounted the whole TT/roundhouse base on a piece of MDF, to make sure things stayed in alignment.  (Not the best job cutting out the pits, fortunately you can't see those holes underneath the roundhouse floor!!)

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Oldguy

Dave, I'll probably do that when I get around to the Clinton yard.  I have a Diamond Scale Turntable to install and it'll take a different approach than the Walthers unit.
I seemed to do a lot of work with little to show for it.  I managed to get the other 5 doors done and all "painted."  I like this weathering powder color and will most likely use it for the roundhouse exterior.  I did install the windows backward so that the mullions are on the inside so that will show with the doors open.  The white is the adhesive.  Since this side will mostly be hidden, it should be passable.


I'm still fiddling with the interior color.  It looks like a white wash with soot overcoat should work out okay.  We'll see.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

MAP

Coming along nicely Bob!  Thanks for all of the pics.
Mark

deemery

#18
I've seen many photos of roundhouses that had white paint up to about waist level, and then 'dark' above that.  Not quite sure why they did it that way. 


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

ACL1504

Bob,

I'm very much enjoying the build process on the AMB roundhouse. I've built several of their caboose kits but never a structure. Oh wait, I did build their ACL Freight Station.

Great job on your build.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Oldguy

Dave, it was to improve illumination at ground level.  The white will reflect more light back into the work area.  If you notice the back wall, the white goes all the way up, while the post probably at or not much higher than eye level.

Here is a photo of the Clinton Mo roundhouse and one can see the white part way up the walls.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

sdrees

I will remember this since I am putting together my roundhouse now.
Steve Drees
SP RR

jerryrbeach

Bob,

I really like your progress and will be following as I, too, have a roundhouse to build.  What "powder" did you use to color the doors?  I did not see where you mentioned what you used, or did I just miss it?
Jerry

Oldguy

Quote from: jerryrbeach on July 29, 2019, 09:14:36 AM
Bob,

I really like your progress and will be following as I, too, have a roundhouse to build.  What "powder" did you use to color the doors?  I did not see where you mentioned what you used, or did I just miss it?
I used Bragdon weathered brown.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

As I previously mentioned, the basic kit is two stalls.  Any larger and you get center stalls, and the parts between the two may look the same, but aren't.  The first photo shows the end walls.  If you look closely to the right and left edges, the framing is further away from the wall edge, than the center piece.
To paint the interior, I masked off 6 feet up and added painter's tape for an edge.  Then cam the task of painting just about everything below it.  The end wall sections looked okay, but the long wall sections are another story.  I'm not all that happy with the upper edges.  I seriously considering making the white on the walls another foot or so higher, but instead of free handing, I can use the removed framing pieces as masks.  As far as the upper wall blacking, I just might spray paint it then do a quick soot job.  Not sure at this point.  I weighted everything down to eliminate any curling from the paint.
I wanted to do something to the front, but  . . . .   According to the instructions, the front wall  is built after the three other walls are glued together.  Now, I haven't seen any photos with white on the doors, so I might just skip those and the framing.  I also need to skip ahead a bit and see how the side and rear windows are installed to see if they need some white wash.  But that is for another day.
I'll be taking several weeks off to recover from hip replacement surgery.  The timing will depend upon rehab.  So take care all.





Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

jerryrbeach

Quote from: Oldguy on July 29, 2019, 10:26:55 PM
Quote from: jerryrbeach on July 29, 2019, 09:14:36 AM
Bob,

I really like your progress and will be following as I, too, have a roundhouse to build.  What "powder" did you use to color the doors?  I did not see where you mentioned what you used, or did I just miss it?
I used Bragdon weathered brown.

Thanks, Bob.  I think the color using the Bragdon is very close to the interior of my 100+ year old barn.  I normally use a mix of brown shoe dye and alcohol to try to replicate that color on my models, the powders are something I am going to try. 

This is coming along nicely, I will be following, if only lurking.
Jerry

Lynnb

Ontario, Canada
The Great White North

My Layout Venture-> https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6003.0

Oldguy

So it's been a little more than a month, and I'm able to get back to the man cave and the layout. 

One thing about roundhouses, one must model both the interior and exterior.  A feature lost on most kit builders; this one is no exception.  As typical for a roundhouse, this kit has a ton of windows with self-adhesive backing.  The side windows are double-hung units and with the glazing consists of four parts.  The upper sash and lower frame are a single piece and very delicate.  One has to pay close attention to ensure that all the adhesive comes off before adding the next part.  And the adhesive is somewhat aggressive.  You only get one real shot and getting everything together.  And yes, once the window is together, you are stuck with a white interior sash.
The rear wall sections get a piece of exterior trim that holds the upper windows in place.  Although not stated, the upper windows have a top/bottom, so you have to pay attention to the thickness of the top and bottom sashes.

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

#28
I painted the lower wall sections white, followed by black for the upper portions.  It was way to stark for may tastes.  So I went over the black with a white wash, followed by soot weathering.  At least it gives the impression that the walls were all white washed initially, and then got sooty and the lower sections were repainted.
I was feeling real proud on how it was coming together when it occurred to me, that I hadn't done all the interior columns and overhead beams.  So these had to be found, cleaned up, and painted. 

Then on to coloring the wall exteriors.  Again, I used Bragdon weathered brown followed by dark rail brown.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

I'm a roll again.  Then reality smacked me upside the head - Ya dummy, ya gots to do the front of the bloody building. 

Um, yeah.  No siding to work with.  Just posts, beams, and windows.  And all made of different material from the siding.  So the powders are going to color differently.  Then to add insult to injury not only is the main beam cut at an angle, but there is a ground mounted board that the rails have to go over.  So I decided to make up the center stall framing and do the end stall window assemblies at this point.  These window assemblies look weird.  The windows are to be flush with the back, with a roof trim piece across the door posts, and the center post taller than everything else.  I got nothing to indicate that it should be any other way, so  . . . .

So at this point, the decision as to what can be made removable, building or roof, was made for me; it has to be roof.  I should also reiterate that the instructions call for the sides to be installed, then the windows installed, and then the front wall installed.  And there are a lot of mall pieces to it, including the stall door strap hinges.  It also became obvious that the tracks need to be added, since they have to go over the door sills.  I have also decided to chicken out and not add any pits and will most likely just add a ballasted floor.






Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

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