Laserkit Dabler Mill & Supply

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice job Bob. I haven't tried dry transfers but they look like they could easily turn to kaka .

[Oldguy]

Very nice job Bob. I haven't tried dry transfers but they look like they could easily turn to kaka .

That is very true. 

[Oldguy]

As a recap, I got the louvers done.  A total of thirteen wall panels were involved.

There a couple of plain scribed loading docks and it doesn't take much to jazz them up a bit.

On to more doors.  There are three window styles, not counting filled in units.  The instructions are clear on what style of windows go where, another reinforcement to label each wall panel.  One panel involves a stair platform and handrail that would dictate where the door frame goes.  It was just a matter of temporary locating the platform and a piece from the handrail carrier sheet to get the frame so that it does not interfere with any subsequent steps.

The I found the one exterior panel that I missed painting and weathering  that needs a door  At least this was any easy fix.  I think that this panel has enough slots and tabs.

[Oldguy]

Not quite the kaka moment, but close.

I needed to get the other dry transfer, the easy one, one the printed wall.  It would have been easier, if I had done this before the louvers were installed.  I put a piece of 1/8 square material between the louvers for strength while rubbing everything down.  I wasn't able to tape this one down, so I just held the left end in place.  In checking on my progress, I found that the printed brick lines were being transferred to the carrier sheet.  Okay, that is a new on on me.  By the time I found this, I was mostly done.  I changed my method and used the dull end of my tweezers, and staying mostly on the white ink, managed to stop the black lines from coming off.  And no, I wasn't able to get the black line off the carrier sheet and back on to the side.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Louvers look great!  Having just spent ages splicing together window shutters to scratch-build mine for my cannery, I'm a bit jealous.

Really enjoying watching your progress.

Cheers, Mark.

[MAP]

Been following along.  Great work so far Bob!  Those dry transfers sure look like a pain in the ***!  I've got this one in the stash.  Glad I'll have your build as a guide! 

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

Looking great. this is a cool kit. Can't wait to see what you do with it.

Karl

[Oldguy]

Looking good, Bob.

Louvers look great!  Having just spent ages splicing together window shutters to scratch-build mine for my cannery, I'm a bit jealous.

Really enjoying watching your progress.

Cheers, Mark.

Admittedly, I wasn't looking forward to building those, but, they just about fell togther

[Oldguy]

This kit  has two places where careless truck drivers damaged the siding, showing the interior studs.  In case anyone wondered why I didn't go for nail holes, those were the reason.  They have no common spacing.  One just assembles the bits and bobs and glue it behind the hole in the wall.

Side A21 is the one with the brick overlay.  Apparently it is meant to be a feature wall as there are three shadow boxes that get installed.  These mainly consist of a detailed adhesive baked sheet over a thicker plain part.  One must really pay attention as to how they all go together and I decided to alter the steps a bit so I could get some of the flat work on the wall done first.  Below is a door frame set that was a lot easier to get attached (everything has an adhesive backing) with any protrusions out the back. 


Here is a receiving hopper that has 21 parts.  I added an additional piece to the hopper.  I'll let it set overnight before I can attach the frame for the opening.


One thing that I forgot was the painting of the edges of the wall openings.  I found raw umber a close match to my weathering powder results, so I belatedly painted these as well.

[tom.boyd.125]

Bob,
This is a large kit to build and YOU have a great start on this project.
Dick Elwell has this structure on his Hoosac Valley RR. It looks very impressive when completed.
Tommy

[WigWag Workshop]

Coming along nicely! I am adding this kit to my list of wants.


-Steven

[postalkarl]

hey Bob:

Looking just great so far. Can't wait to see what you do with the brick walls.

Karl

[Oldguy]

Thanks all for the kind words.

After I had done the dry transfer on the brick wall, I decided to give it a coat of matte varnish (Dull coat) to protect the transfer.  On a lark, I pulled out the transfer backing and did a rub test.  No more black line removal occurred.  So, in the future, give the wall a spritz of Dull coat before the dry transfer rub.  Just don't over do it as it might mess up the adhesive backing.

I'm now at the point of actually assembly.  Starting with the office building.  They give the builder the option of attaching it or not.  The difference is, if attached, parts of the roof cards must be cut off.  The cards have a cut line.  I don't know, so I'll leave mine as a separate building.  They also give the builder the option of installing a wall  AC unit.  If not, there is a window for the wall opening.  This window only goes here and nowhere else.  This is a good time to show the little AC unit along with the other metal, plastic and acrylic plastic parts.  The major part of the acrylic sheet is for a conveyor.  Not sure why thy decided to use this material.

Since I'll be starting to start assembly, it was time to paint all the trim boards. 


With glue and paint drying, I jumped ahead and started on the tar paper covered shack addition.  They provide all the tar paper already marked for the battens.  The instructions have one build the three-sided shack, then add the paper, but, I found it easier to paper first, then glue.  The suggest to use a wall piece to aid in the glue set up, and it worked slick.  Just remember not to glue the shack to the wall.  I also added the roof temporarily to also aid in ensuring everything stayed square.  The shack's roofing is also marked for ease of adding battens

[Oldguy]

I cleaned up all the detail parts and spray primed them. 


Then on to the brick wall.  Luckily, I have a multicolored pad of construction paper and red was a close match to the wall.  So I was able to play around a bit with coloring.  I used a used brick powder to tone down the wall and sign, Then I went to a white Pan Pastel for a bit of paint run off.  I better call it quits on this wall, until I get close to having it planted.

[postalkarl]

hey Bob:

Walls looks just great so far.

Karl