Timberline Models Photograpers Studio & Home kitbash

[Oldguy]

My Sawpit Store still needs a bar b q operation and I have trying to think on how to add one.  Since I am very poor on original thought, I needed a starting point.  There isn't much out there to get, so I continued to go through my kit cache.  Buried on the bottom was this little Timberline kit.  Back in the day it cost a whole $5.95.  So, let's see how this goes.

The instructions consist of a single page.  One front elevation and one side elevation.  That's it.  The numbers on the elevations refer to the construction step.  No list of materials, so I started, by reading though, making note of wood strip sizes, and their dimensions in decimal form.  All wood parts got a dip in A&I.

Wood parts have crude die cut marks for doors and windows.  The envelopes contain Campbell shingle strips.  I'll need to replace the one wall that has the bow window and door and make a new one to replace the window wall of the studio.

Strip wood needed a couple of passes through steel wool to remove splinters.  Roof cards were stained by the strip wood.  White areas were covered by a large piece of window acetate. 


They did provide material for a foundation, but this will be replace by RSLaser foundation sticks.

Buckle up.  This could be a rocky ride.

[PRR Modeler]

I'll be following.

[madharry]

Good luck Bob.

Mike

[Dennis Bourey]

I will be watching and learning Bob....Dennis

[WigWag Workshop]

I'm Interested, looking forward to seeing this build come together.


-Steven

[Oldguy]

Well guys, I hope that I can continue to keep your attention.

I need to determine how the back annex (nee studio) can be modified.  I typically use a 5x8 note card on my magnetic gluing jig for drafting.  It has 90 degree corners, so it's perfect for this use as well.  Once I have drawn up something that should work, I can easily transfer the dimensions to the wood.  But first, I scrounge up some extra bits that  might be useful.  These include RSLaserkits foundation sticks, Rail Scale Models brick columns (for a chimney and porch piers), Monster Model Works brick sheet and corners, and clapboard siding scrap.

Next is to cut out the needed window and  door openings.  This 1/8" stock is tough so I drilled a series of holes so that I could use a chisel blade to cut out the openings.  What I use is a mini electric screwdriver to which I added a mini chuck. 


Eventually, I get all the pieces ready for paint.  The top row shows the house portion.  I did notice that the two side walls need to be swapped around.  The lower line is the annex.  It starts midway along the back wall, a short door section, the smoke box back, a window wall, the full end, and then the front wall section.  Only the two end pieces are kit originals. 


In reading through the instructions, I used a highlighter to note what wood sizes go where and what pieces needed to be painted.  I do separate all wood by size in old plastic parts bags, and in this case, note what step they are used and for what.  It was at this time where I found my first whoopsy.  They have a lower belt piece applied to the bottom of each wall.  Well, this is going to affect my foundation for the smoker which then affects the roof line.  And this piece is to be even with the back of each wall.  Would be easy as all get out, If I didn't have all that bracing in the way.  Sigh.   So, this points to the need to paint and assemble the walls before I do too much with the smoker.

And oh, I decided that Bubba was out and it will be Workman's Smokehouse after good ole Gnatshop.  I hope he is doing okay.

[GPdemayo]

Neat looking structure Bob.....I'll be looking in. 

[postalkarl]

Hey Bob:

Walls look just great.

Karl

[Oldguy]

Thanks karl, But I'm going to have mess them up a bit.

With the store being yellow with white trim, I did this the same.  Banana Cream, which is rather bright, then toned down with Old Yeller weathering powder.  The castings were hit with Tamiya gray primer and then painted with Antique Parchment.

There is a bottom trim piece that is set even with the back.  It would have been a breeze, I I hadn't added the bracing earlier.  Most of these pieces were painted with the parchment.  Exceptions were the walls that will have a porch.  These were painted body yellow.  Here we are with windows and door added. 


While stuff was setting up, I went ahead and cut out the roof cards.  I do use my magnetic jg an awful lot.  Here I added a custom cut mat so I can cut material in place.  Knowing the corners are 90 degrees true, the jig serves as my drafting table as well.  I will be using the stock porch, but it needed some beefing up after bending the corners.  A bit of Elmers will stiffen the sides.

[Oldguy]

The front porch roof was placed to ensure square corners and a piece of scrap card was cut to form a backer.  Basically to hold the shape  I'll need to make a porch ceiling  for the posts.

With additional glue run along the backer edges, the assembly was left to dry over night.  A weight was added to keep its shape.

[nycjeff]

Hello Bob, I went back and read through your Sawpit Store build thread to see what your overall idea is for this structure grouping. It's not easy to get yellow looking good, but you've certainly done it. Your use of the weathering chalks is very good. Can't wait to see the finished complex.    Jeff

[ReadingBob]

Oh wow!  A golden oldie (like me).     That's a lot of kit for $5.95.  You're off to a great start Bob.  This should be a lot of fun!

[Oldguy]

Jeff and Bob thanks for the comments.  And Bob, you are correct.  A lot of kit for $6.  That' about $22 today. 


I got the porches done, per instructions.  Adding them is another matter.  I got the roofs cut out and braced like crazy.  Probably more wood than cardboard.  I needed to make a new roof for the addition as half of it was a "window".  I don't have a lot of cardboard scraps, as I hate cardboard.  The closest and toughest stuff I found was a Cheerios box.  I got it cut out and braced.  No photos of this boring construct.
The porch roof dried nicely and I decided t make a ceiling for it.  It will also help hold it's shape.  I'll just paint the sides white and shingle it.  Of course karma came by and bit me.  Seems the porch roof is too thick for the space between the front door/window and the upper floor window.   Sigh.  A little surgery and it should be good to go.

I finally got to the point of assembling the house.  I need to add some scrap 1/8" sticks along the jig sides as the window sis was interfering in getting a square building.

I didn't take a lot of photos.  I got lost with all the cutting and gluing.

I will be adding a standing seam metal roof to the house and corrugated metal roof for all others.

[PRR Modeler]

Looking good Bob.

[Oldguy]

Thanks Curt.

I spent most of my time working on the stone foundation, using RSlaserkit foundation sticks.  It was a matter of measuring (Mark 1 eyeball) and cutting the 45 degree angles.  Then using the first one as a template, cut a duplicate.  Glue both together.  Do this 4 times.  I decided to use two sections high so that I could use brick columns to support the porches.  I used two left over corner braces to keep the house square and did the same for these. 

Now that this assembly can be handled, I can get on to the annex foundation - concrete block.  As it comes out, it measures just slightly more than 3 blocks high.  Cutting the Monster Model works block sheet is tricky as I am cutting with the grain.  Which isn't always in my favor.
I also managed to add some fly rafters to the roof cards.  I needed to get these on before adding the tin.