CCK 18177 - Takoma Shops in HO Scale

Started by NEMMRRC, October 30, 2019, 08:05:15 PM

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NEMMRRC

Keep the replies coming. I'm enjoying what you all have to say.


I decide to try something different. I decided to prime both sides of the wood walls with spray cans. For the main buildings I want to black out the interiors so I decided to spray the inside of the walls with flat black. For the wall exteriors I thought I'd spray them a grey primer.





Yeah... The only grey primer I could find was a tad dark. Oh well, ain't no step for a stepper. A little dab of craft paints here and there and it'll come out alrightish lol.


The instructions direct the modeler to apply a weathering wash of craft paints prior to the final paint color on the exterior walls (unlike the spray painting I did). The instructions do suggest to blacken the interior walls to help minimize light leaks if lighting the structure and to hide the lack of an interior through the windows once assembled.


I think I will go buy some lighter grey spray paint tomorrow. It'll give me an excuse to leave the office for a short while  ;D  Or, I could rummage through the dozens of boxes of train stuff I have all packed up and try to find a lighter grey spray can and pray it will still spray. I had a hard time getting the ones on the walls above to spray given how cold it is outside and in my basement. I was too lazy to warm up the cans prior to spraying.


More to come as it develops.


Jaime

chris.mincemoyer

Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish"  ;D

deemery

Actually, the dark primer with a lighter paint over top should give you some good pre-weathered effects.  Try the FOS sponge technique for peeling paint (dry-brush dab the paint on the walls with the sponge), and see how you like that effect.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

NEMMRRC

Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on November 06, 2019, 12:34:46 PM
Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish"  ;D
Stick around. Once I start screwing up the build you will learn a whole set of new words  ;D


Jaime

NEMMRRC

#34
Quote from: deemery on November 06, 2019, 01:32:51 PM
Actually, the dark primer with a lighter paint over top should give you some good pre-weathered effects.  Try the FOS sponge technique for peeling paint (dry-brush dab the paint on the walls with the sponge), and see how you like that effect.


dave
I've been watching this character on YouTube (Jason Jensen) and he does exactly that. This is why I went with the primer rather than the India ink and alcohol stain. I thought I'd try what Jason does on his videos. He does a lot of For kits on the videos along with CCK kits.


Jaime

deemery

Quote from: NEMMRRC on November 06, 2019, 06:24:57 PM
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on November 06, 2019, 12:34:46 PM
Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish"  ;D
Stick around. Once I start screwing up the build you will learn a whole set of new words  ;D


Jaime


My wife won't teach me those words.  "They are much worse in Spanish than in English."


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

NEMMRRC

I am back.


I had a pretty good update last night and Comcast decided to have an outage in my area so I was left with no internet service for the evening. So much for that. So instead all I have for now is an alrightish update.


I bought some new grey primer at Wal-Mart. It kills me that at one time Wal-Mart had a killer grey spray can in their house brand for only $0.99. Now all they have is black and white. So I had to buy a name brand for 4 times that much. If your Wal-Mart still has the house brand grey spray can buy all they have. I'll buy a can off you for $0.85.


Here is what I got after I sprayed the rest of the walls with the lighter grey can.





And here you can see the difference between the two.






Quite the contrast.


I also bought some new 91% alcohol to make me some India ink wash. I always write the date on the bottle when I made the batch and I have begun to write how much India ink I used.





I mentioned earlier I have been watching Jason Jensen on the YouTube and his weathering methods. I decided to try the sponge dab method with an added twist of mine. I dab the sponge on full strength paint. I dab the wet sponge on a piece of paper to remove most of the paint. I dab the clapboard wall randomly. I then scrub the sponge in the direction of the grain. The net effect is good coverage of the walls but still leaving some of the bare clapboard unpainted. We all know about dry brushing... So I call my technique, half brushing. It works the same if using a brush.






Here is a close up of what it looks like.






The effect I was after was a faded somewhat peeled wall. Note how the area under the part of the clapboard that overlaps didn't get any paint. I am not sure how prototypical that is but I like it nonetheless. And that is half brushing for you.


By the way, the corner trim I did wash with the India ink and alcohol stain and then half brushed with cheap white acrylic paint with a cheap brush.


Here is what it looks like after I added some of the India ink wash to the painted wall.






Now it is time for me to start gluing pieces together.


Later.


Jaime

BandOGuy

Check Jason's YouTube show 08.
He uses a liquid Crackle Finish in from Michaels/craft store to do some amazing aged paint work. If you haven't checked his site, he does a lot of work with CCK kits.
Working on my second million. I gave up on the first.

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

jerryrbeach

Jaime,

That ink wash really brought out the worn look of the siding.  Nice job and a good explanation of your sponge "half brushing" technique.
Jerry

NEMMRRC

#40
That Jason Jensen is good. Maybe he'll show up at a train show and do a clinic or two.

Sometimes it pays off to take things a tad easy and not rush. Although it is nice to build fast and get more done. Taking things slow often saves my rear end. For example, I began to glue together the little office (one of three buildings in the kit) and when I took a picture of it I realized I had not finished gluing the window and door castings yet. Some do that once the building is put together. Me, I like to do it while the walls are flat (not glued to each other yet).

Here is what I mean.







So I headed down to the basement and spray painted some castings with some of the new grey primer I bought.

I waited some time for the paint to dry.

I began to paint the castings. And that is when things went bad. My cheap acrylic paint has outlived its usefulness. It went on too runny and would not stick to the castings. Then I discovered the grey primer has a very smooth satin finish. Not good in this case. What is wacky is the white acrylic paint did fine on the corner wood trim as you see above.

So, I punted and used white acrylic paint from a Liquitex tube. That did much better.






Notice how the casting on the left is the one painted white. The casting on the bottom right is the once with grey primer. And the casting on the top right is an unpainted one. The grey primer one is shinier than the unpainted casting ;D


While the castings were drying I decided to glue part of the storage shed (the second small building in the kit). This one you have to build stick by stick.









I have lots of other stuff going this weekend so this is as far I will get for a while.


Leave a note if you feel like it. Hopefully, you too are building something.


Later.


Jaime

engine909

Nice work Jamie. I am just finishing the O scale John Allen Engine House. Than maybe a Cedarhill kit. It would be my first one. I look forward to more posting from a great modeler.
ed

jerryrbeach

Jaime,

I'm my last rattle can of the cheap Walmart primer.  Since I knew it was only a matter of time I started searching for an acceptable substitute.  I use either Krylon or Rustoleum Camo colors to prime castings.  I like the tan or khaki colors.  I find they can be sprayed in thin coats, do not obscure details, and dry dead flat so my acrylics stick well as top coats.  HTH.

Looking good so far.
Jerry

darrylhuffman

Jaime, my old friend,

I will be following your progress on this build with interest.

There has been discussion of glues.

Elmer's has changed the formula for Glue-All which has been my standard for decades and I'm not sure how the new formula works.

Lately I have been using the little applicators shown in the photo.

I dilute Pacer's Canopy Glue a little bit so it will flow nicely through the metal tube.

This is much faster than my old toothpick and puddle of Elmers method.

This also gives a stronger bond.
Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@gmail.com

You can follow my blog here:

http://ghosttownmodels.blogspot.com

You can find my Youtube Channel of Model Building Videos Here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1J2Ord8fgo3yR6veiI7b_g/videos

darrylhuffman

Jaime,

I buy my applicators at Amazon.

Darryl
Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@gmail.com

You can follow my blog here:

http://ghosttownmodels.blogspot.com

You can find my Youtube Channel of Model Building Videos Here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1J2Ord8fgo3yR6veiI7b_g/videos

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