Superior & Seattle Railroad Build (Volume 3) Started 7/27/19

Started by S&S RR, July 27, 2019, 08:44:50 PM

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Mark Dalrymple

Looking good, John.

I'm just wondering why the ends of the clapboard wall sections don't line up with the timber beams between each track?

Re the cutting of clapboard (just wondering if it might help - for next time) - I would cut out the middle window first, then the far end of the two outside windows, then about 3/4 the way along the outside windows (leaving a quarter of clapboard remaining). then the last bit.  This should ease the pressure on the remaining piece a bit.  I would cut all the way through against the grain first (I often flip the walls over to finish this) on every cut, and would put tape on the back before I started.

Cheers, Mark.

S&S RR

Quote from: Jerry on June 21, 2020, 01:06:03 PM
Third time's a charm!!  In this case perfect choice!!


Jerry


Thank you Jerry. I can't wait to start putting the roof on this.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on June 21, 2020, 01:36:20 PM
The 'reason' why the 3 window setup looks so much better is that the whole idea of that clerestory is to let in more light into the roundhouse.  So a clerestory with less than "maximum windows' just looks strange. 


This is coming along great, I'm really enjoying the detailed build.


dave


Dave


Thank you for following along and the kind words. I agree with the comments on the clerestory - if I had this to do over again I would make a strip wood frame and add another window or larger windows.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: mark dalrymple on June 21, 2020, 03:17:14 PM
Looking good, John.

I'm just wondering why the ends of the clapboard wall sections don't line up with the timber beams between each track?

Re the cutting of clapboard (just wondering if it might help - for next time) - I would cut out the middle window first, then the far end of the two outside windows, then about 3/4 the way along the outside windows (leaving a quarter of clapboard remaining). then the last bit.  This should ease the pressure on the remaining piece a bit.  I would cut all the way through against the grain first (I often flip the walls over to finish this) on every cut, and would put tape on the back before I started.

Cheers, Mark.


Mark


Good eye.  I started adding the upper posts by placing a clapboard wall section in place and then adding the post at the end.  I got to the third or fourth post and said something is wrong here. I took the picture before figuring out what caused the error. I worked out a solution today and fixed the problem. It turns out that my original clapboard wall section was about an 1/8 of an inch too long (1/16 inch on a side from the centerline) so the error was getting bigger with each stall as I started adding the posts. I cut the original from a photocopy template so that's what probably caused the original increase in length. I added each post right on top of the beams and sanded the wall sections to fit and got a nice custom fit all the way around the 11 stalls.


On the clapboard issue I think part of my problem was that the clapboard sheet I used has been sitting on the shelf for many years and I think it was dried out and brittle.  I tried many different techniques to try and cut the window openings but I was doing way to much breaking.  The table saw cut technique worked great.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Update: I cut the pieces to build the upper back clapboard walls for the clerestory this morning - assembly will start this evening. The issue with the front clerestory posts is fixed and the walls and wall castings are drying in the paint booth. Now, I have to go mow the lawn and move a couple yards of dirt.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Update: The summer chores have slowed progress on the roundhouse and the layout in general for the past couple weeks.  I'm cutting and gluing the interior framework together and started the staining process. I'm in the couple hours here and a couple hours there mode right now.   I will take some pictures when I get a little further along.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Here is a progress picture of the Brick Roundhouse build.  I have three more stalls of the rear interior beam work to complete and it will be time finish staining the interior beams and add the the clerestory walls and roof.  I also started scratch building the doors for the roundhouse. I'm making them out of wood.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

S&S RR

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 28, 2020, 02:31:37 PM
Looks great John.


Thank you Curt.  This evening I'm working on a scratch built door for the roundhouse. I'm going to model all the doors in the open position because they are not reachable once the structure is in place on the layout.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Here is door number one of the thirty that are required for the Brick Roundhouse build.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

S&S RR

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 29, 2020, 06:27:17 PM
Nice job on the door John.


Thank you for the complement.  I made 25 of them today.  I ran out of painted strip wood so I'm waiting for the paint to dry before assembling the final 5.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

The interior beam work is complete on the 11 stall portion of the Brick Roundhouse. I got about half it stained last night before I ran out of gas. As you can see from the templates on the roof I'm getting ready to start cutting the roof cards.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

I went for strength on the back beams, rather than prototypical, because once the roof cards go on they will not be visible. I will be using project board from Dick Blick for my roof cards.  It is 1/16 inch thick and is more of a composite board rather than the cardboard that is standard for kit roof cards. Postalkarl recommended this in one of his threads a few years back so it's a forum tip being reused. Thank you Karl. I have started using it for a lot of applications on the S&S RR.





John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

The roof cards are going to get a coat of black paint before installation.   If you look closely you will find a few water management features that were added to make up the difference in the castings that was discussed earlier in the thread.  I need to shim the bottom of the back castings on the left side to get the right height so the left side matched the right side. Only forum members will know once the roof cards go on.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

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