C&O K3, 2-8-2 Mikado Painting

[postalkarl]

Hey Tom:

Looks like you are having fun.

Karl

[ACL1504]

Karl,

Yes, I feel like Scrooge when he said, "I don't deserved to be this happy".

Tom

[postalkarl]

Hey Tom:

sounds good to me.

Karl

[T.C.]

What type of screws did you use to secure the motor?
T.C.

[ACL1504]

What type of screws did you use to secure the motor?
T.C.

T.C.,

I forgot to mention no screws were used. I did use 5 minute epoxy to secure the motor to styrene and the styrene to the brass.

I did this on two other DCC installs three years ago and so far no problems with the epoxy. Of course I did place a small piece of tape over the screw hole in the motor casing.

Great question.

Tom

[7thStreetShops]

You are working way too hard, Tom. Go to TCS sight and order a roll of Kaptan tape (.003" plastic - tough stuff). Place a layer of the tape over the "motor" face of the brass mount. Use a sharp knife to open up the hole for the motor shaft / bearing collar. And the screw mounting hold. Then run down to Napa (or other auto parts store) and get a tube of Permatex "Ultra Black" gasket material.  Fix the motor to the motor mount with the stock metal screws tightly in place. (No need to adjust the worm in this case.) Run a bead of the Permatex between the motor can and the horizontal arm under the motor. Let it set over night and then don't forget to remove the screws.

The hardest part of this job is keeping the Permatex from getting all over everything. At least it doesn't stink.

Anyway no tedious cutting of plastic and no obnoxious epoxy on a brass model (unforgivable sin!) and if it took you longer than a hour you must have stopped to do a couple of crossword puzzles. Oh. And if you need to remove the motor it cuts off with a knife; zip, zip, done. And if you want to put it back a nice thin coat of Permatex and the two screws over night. Done.

Derrell

[ACL1504]

You are working way too hard, Tom. Go to TCS sight and order a roll of Kaptan tape (.003" plastic - tough stuff). Place a layer of the tape over the "motor" face of the brass mount. Use a sharp knife to open up the hole for the motor shaft / bearing collar. And the screw mounting hold. Then run down to Napa (or other auto parts store) and get a tube of Permatex "Ultra Black" gasket material.  Fix the motor to the motor mount with the stock metal screws tightly in place. (No need to adjust the worm in this case.) Run a bead of the Permatex between the motor can and the horizontal arm under the motor. Let it set over night and then don't forget to remove the screws.

The hardest part of this job is keeping the Permatex from getting all over everything. At least it doesn't stink.

Anyway no tedious cutting of plastic and no obnoxious epoxy on a brass model (unforgivable sin!) and if it took you longer than a hour you must have stopped to do a couple of crossword puzzles. Oh. And if you need to remove the motor it cuts off with a knife; zip, zip, done. And if you want to put it back a nice thin coat of Permatex and the two screws over night. Done.

Derrell

Derrell,

Hey, I appreciate you checking in and also for the information. I ordered some of the TCS Kaptan Tape this morning. I'll try your method next time this comes up.

Not sure the "unforgivable sin" is any different with Permatex instant gasket rather than epoxy. Either way works I guess. Your way certainly seems faster.

Again, thanks for the tip. I'm liking it already.

Tom

[T.C.]

Wouldn't it have been easier to use nylon screws? Great job regardless If I may ask, how are you putting the window glass in the cabs and what type of glazing are you using?

Thanks  for your postings !
T.C.

[ACL1504]

T.C.,

Thank you, appreciate the compliment.

Nylon screws were my first choice but didn't have any that fit. The metal motor casing would still need to be separated from the brass motor mount.

On past models I've used Gallery Glass for the windows while on others I've used Acetate/Mylar for the windows. The clear acetate glass is difficult to get on the back side of most brass cab windows.

Tom

[Jim Donovan]

Tom;

Very interesting and the results are amazing. I have never attempted painting any engine so really appreciate the 'hows' and 'whys'. Something I will try sometime.

Jim D

[7thStreetShops]

Tom;

Very interesting and the results are amazing. I have never attempted painting any engine so really appreciate the 'hows' and 'whys'. Something I will try sometime.

Jim D

"Not sure the "unforgivable sin" is any different with Permatex instant gasket rather than epoxy. Either way works I guess. Your way certainly seems faster."

Oh, that's just a personal pet peeve of mine, I suppose. I get pretty annoyed when I repair a model with a soldering Iron  (the correct way to attach brass to brass) and get a face full of obnoxious fumes - not to mention epoxy generally fails a LOT sooner than solder - I'll just about guarantee that across the board. Brass is a nice metal, generally very workable but, truth is, it hates just about everything sticking to it. Korean Brass is of a "unknown" alloy, perhaps made up of U.S. 105 shells and the variable "x". And they invented water soluble solder to go with it!

The advantages of the Epoxy to mount a motor are; probably we all have that substance in our arsenal of adhesives and it sets up quicker. Can't think of any others. The Advantages of the Permatex is that; there is no tedious mixing (epoxies stink); it is not rigid which allows the motor to flex a tiny bit if it "needs" to; it can quickly be cut away and re-established with a thin "between" coat to rapidly adjust the position of a motor and; it cleans from the joint readily with a variety of (albeit stinky) solvents, if necessary. And it doesn't stink. Did I mention how annoyed I get when running into stinky fumy epoxy that burns my eyes when I get a face full of it?

You can use Nylon screws if you want but the Permatex holds plenty firm enough that they are not necessary. I use the metal screws only to hold the motor alignment while the Permatex sets. After that nothing is needed.

You do great work Tom. Everyone is enjoying this project. Thanks. I love it when people "do" stuff. That is the greatest value of this hobby. Hope I can help other "do" - I charge a lot of money when they want me to "do" it...

[ACL1504]

Derrell,

I certainly understand how frustrating repairing some brass belonging to others can be. When it comes to brass on brass I also always use solder. In this case it was plastic so I used the epoxy.

I really like the idea of the Permatex and screws to hold it in place until dry. I like the idea the Permatex is flexible. I plan on using this method on the next brass where DCC will be installed. Thanks for the tip. See, old dogs can learn new tricks.

Again, thank you for the compliment. Coming from you and Thom means a lot.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom;

Very interesting and the results are amazing. I have never attempted painting any engine so really appreciate the 'hows' and 'whys'. Something I will try sometime.

Jim D

Jim,

Thank you, appreciate the post. Sorry I missed your post the first time around. I put off my first painting for two years. When I finally decided to paint, it wasn't as bad or scary as I thought.

Tom

[7thStreetShops]

I'm sure there are a lot of talented modelers on this forum from which each of us could learn a lot. When the hobby really took root back in the 1920's there was just about ready-to-run nuthin'. No flex track - not even rail. I've read stories of those pioneer modelers running O scale size models with ac motors on track wired with 110volt power. Yikes! (The Electric industry took off in  the '20s and that is when the majority of the homes in America were wired.)

Before that it was 0-5-0 power or a clock mechanism.

Today I'm working on making scale sand - that's how far we've come - and we don't even need power on the track.

It's a wonderful hobby but the soul is still the craftsmanship and the best reward is to build and paint a model like Tom's, and then watch it run.

7th Street Shops has repeatedly said, "it's a machine first. It can be the prettiest thing on the shelf but if it don't run it ain't nuthin' but a diorama."

Bet this one runs like a 32 jewel Swiss watch.

[ACL1504]

I'm sure there are a lot of talented modelers on this forum from which each of us could learn a lot. When the hobby really took root back in the 1920's there was just about ready-to-run nuthin'. No flex track - not even rail. I've read stories of those pioneer modelers running O scale size models with ac motors on track wired with 110volt power. Yikes! (The Electric industry took off in  the '20s and that is when the majority of the homes in America were wired.)

Before that it was 0-5-0 power or a clock mechanism.

Today I'm working on making scale sand - that's how far we've come - and we don't even need power on the track.

It's a wonderful hobby but the soul is still the craftsmanship and the best reward is to build and paint a model like Tom's, and then watch it run.

7th Street Shops has repeatedly said, "it's a machine first. It can be the prettiest thing on the shelf but if it don't run it ain't nuthin' but a diorama."

Bet this one runs like a 32 jewel Swiss watch.

Derrell,

Scale sand, wow. Can't wait to see that.

I remember seeing my first piece of ready made flex-track in the early 50's. It was code 100 brass rail with fiber ties. The ties were attached to the rail with what appeared to be small staples. Two staples for each tie.

I'll quote Howard Zane here, "If you are buying brass as an investment, don't. If you are buying brass to look at, don't. If you are buying brass to run and enjoy, buy as much as you can afford."

This C&O K3 does run like a Swiss watch.

Derrell, I hope you don't mind but folks need to know you are the new owner of NWSL. Just saying.

Tom