Backing for "Metal" Signs?

Started by WigWag Workshop, June 15, 2020, 02:13:07 PM

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WigWag Workshop

Hey Der Folks!


I am working on my first craftsman kit J. Keen Supplies. The kit came with assorted little signs. I am wondering what type of backing do you use on these to replicate a metal sign?  I seen a tutorial that used an aluminum can when making street signs, but I think that might be to thick for a wall sign.  I know how to do the "painted on' look, but unsure of how to create a metal looking sign.


Thank You in Advance,


-Steven
A BIG Thanks to all the folks who share their knowledge, and for giving me the inspiration to push the limits in this great hobby!

jerryrbeach


Stephen,


There are a couple ways to approach this.  One is to use transfer tape and fasten some .005 or .010 styrene to stiffen the paper sign.  I usually copy the sign and print it out on 110# cardstock.  This is the weight recommended by Clever Models for printing their building kits or textures.  If you go this route, use the edge of a gray marker applied from the back of the sign to cover the white edge.  Either way, some dry brushed rust will help sell the look of a porcelain sign.  HTH
Jerry

deemery

Metal signs tend to be a lot more glossy than signs painted on wood.  So to get a metal look, maybe you just need to paint/spray it with Glosscote or a similar gloss medium.  Just be careful to keep the gloss coat thin.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

WigWag Workshop

Thank You Jerry, I think I have some .005 styrene in my stash.


Deemery, thank you for the tip on the gloss coat.


-Steven
A BIG Thanks to all the folks who share their knowledge, and for giving me the inspiration to push the limits in this great hobby!

vinceg

I have also used the aluminum from empty cans of Coke. Easy to cut with tin snips. Transfer tape works great. Nice and thin. And, the back looks like metal ('cuz it is). You just make sure to stick your sign to the printed side of the can.

The BURGERS sign on top of the little diner building was made this way.



Vince

Protolancing the Illinois Central Chicago District from Chicago to Kankakee

Rail and Tie

Aluminum Foil Duct tape works well for this though you need to dull it down with dullcote or flat something.  The tape is thicker than tinfoil and with the self adhesive backing, it saves a few steps over the popcan.  The foil is a bit flimsy, but with the paper of the sign laminated to it, it is quite stiff.
Darryl Jacobs
Inter-Action Hobbies
www.interactionhobbies.com

WigWag Workshop

Thank You vinceg and Rail and Tie for the additional feedback, it's greatly appreciated.  Will be trying all these tips.


-Steven
A BIG Thanks to all the folks who share their knowledge, and for giving me the inspiration to push the limits in this great hobby!

jbvb

This sign is printer paper mounted to heavy kitchen aluminum foil with 3M Super 77 spray contact cement.  It's now been on my layout 5 years w/o problems, but it's in an area safe from roving elbows.
James

vinceg

Nice idea -- I keep forgetting about the 3M 77 product. Handy.
Vince

Protolancing the Illinois Central Chicago District from Chicago to Kankakee

GPdemayo

Great ideas about the heavy aluminum foil and soda can as backing.....I'll give it a try.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

ACL1504

All great ideas and I really like the Acme sign.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

jbvb

Thanks, Tom. I found the original image on the net; it appeared to be a weathered metal sign but there was a lot of glare in the photo.  I used GIMP to fix the colors and perspective, and scale it.
James

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