Most of the vehicles I model date from the first quarter of the 20th Century, though I often get distracted and stray from my chosen modeling era.
First up is a Bates crawler. This was built from a resin kit by Rusty Rail Rick.
Second is a Jordan Model TT gasoline tank truck. This was built based on one done by Chester Fesmire, and combines the gasoline tank from a Jordan Model A with the TT truck chassis.
Great work Jerry.....thanks for posting. 8)
Hi Jerry:
Very nicely done vehicles.
Karl
Nice.
Jeff
Greg, Karl, and Jeff, thank you for your kind words.
I realize now that I need to take a couple photos of each of my vehicles. The photos show little mistakes in paint color separation, or where it has simply worn off in storage, things that I did not notice even with my Optivisor. Glad I started posting some of my vehicles, need to work on some touch-ups before I post more.
Looking good Jerry, I built one of the tank trucks for a small junk scene.
Andy,
Thanks for your comment. The cool thing about the Jordan vehicles is they can be used in so many ways.
Jordan horse and buggy, and a pair of Preiser wagons. Sorry the lighting isn't better for the Preiser wagons. I'll try to post a better shot when I finish the horses.
This is a common wagon used for loose hay. I scratched the wood superstructure over an old AHM frame.
Looking great will be nice addition Jim
Thanks, Jim.
I appreciate your nice comment!
Jerry,
Wow, I love the work you did on these vehicles for the D&N. Fantastic job my friend, just wonderful. I really love the hay wagon. Great job.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate the kind words.
I try to work on small projects over the summer as my modeling time is limited. This is one of my summer projects that I just finished up (even though summer is well behind us).
The green tractor is one I built many years ago and is "stock". Somewhere the steering wheel was lost and it needs to be replaced and the truck weathered as well.
Both the dark blue tractor and its trailer had some changes made to give them a slightly different look than the stock model, shown for comparison.
Jerry,
Very well done. I like how you used two of the same vehicle and made two completely different flatbeds.
Great job.
Tom ;D
Jerry
Very nice!
Tom,
Thanks for stopping by. I enjoy taking a stock kit and modifying it to add some variety to my vehicles.
John,
Thanks for your nice comment.
I agree, two great (but different) looking vehicles from the same kit.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks for nice comment. There isn't a lot of variety in the available vehicle kits for my era, so I try to make each one a little different.
I have been working sporadically on Bar Mills' Mortimer Stiph structure kit. My plan is to convert it into a harness shop. I want to model it with the doors open and the shop interior visible. I have thus far been unable to fit a mix of storage cabinets and workbenches into the interior in a way I find typical of such shops. Since construction on the structure has stalled, at least for the time being, I thought I would work on the wagon included in the kit. When I laid out the parts for the wagon I found the piece with the laser cut floor was missing. I emailed Bar Mills and requested the missing part. I heard back from Art almost immediately. He asked me to send him my address and I did shortly after receiving his response. I assumed he requested my address so he could send me the missing wagon floor. After three weeks I had not seen the missing part so I sent him another email with the original request and his response attached. In the month since the second email I have gotten no response of any kind from Bar Mills. I find this disappointing to say the least.
I decided to scratch the missing floor from some scribed wood sheet and proceed with building the wagon. I read through the abbreviated instructions and realized that I was more or less on my own regarding the construction steps. At that point I thought a build thread might be useful to anyone else attempting to construct this or a similar wagon.
Bar Mills includes the same wagon with the Barn at Jackson Corners kit. I believe that the same wagon is also included in the now out of production American Seltzer kit. Note also that the Milk & Ice Wagon kit sold separately by Bar Mills uses this same running gear.
Without further ado, I'll start the thread with the exploded view and the "abbreviated" instructions.
I used a piece of scrap scribed siding to cut out a floor. This differs slightly from the shape of the kit floor. I cut the notches for the sides, then stained the top of the floor with A/I mix. I chose to paint the wagon components while they were still attached to the carrier sheets. Some of the parts are very small (like the hubs) and could be easily lost if removed form the carrier sheets for painting. I went old school on this, using Floquil Conrail Blue and Caboose red, diluting both with thinner to get a faded, well used look to the wagon.
Once everything was dry, I started by gluing the box sides to the floor. Once the box sides were fastened to the floor, I glued the ends in place. I followed that with gluing the 1/32" square pieces inside the corners to reinforce them. I used Elmer's white glue for all these joints.
Jerry, thanks for the build thread on this wagon. I've been looking at it on the Bar Mills webpage and wondering just how intricate the assembly would be, considering the "warning" on their website.
--Opa George
George,
You're very welcome. This is a really well designed wagon and I thought it deserved better instructions than those provided.
Jerry,
The wagons are coming along nicely. Nothing beats the old Floquil paints and thinner to make wood look worn and weather beaten.
Well done and looking forward to the finished wagons.
Tom ;D
Next step was to add the side stakes. I used scale 2x4's for these parts and glued them in place with white glue. I apply the glue in a thin line with the scriber shown in some of the earlier pics, and then use the tip of the scriber to remove any excess glue before it dries.
The Mortimer Stiph instructions do not label the axles, I added the part numbers that correspond to those on the exploded drawing (first photo).
The second photo shows the front bolster drilled for the kingpin. I used .015 brass wire for this part, next time I will use the same .020 brass wire I used for the axles. I drilled the rear axle and ACC'd two short pieces of the .020 wire into the ends of the axle. I followed the suggestion in the instructions and "cheated" by using ACC to fasten the wire to the bottom of the front axle rather than drilling it and using stub axles. All of the wire used was left long and will be trimmed to length later in the construction process.
Tom,
I agree that using the thinned Floquil is a great way to get that worn look. I chose the Floquil not only for that look, but also because the sides are very thin and I was concerned they might warp if I used acrylics. Thanks for your nice comment.
The vehicles keep getting better & better.....they will really help your layout come to life..... 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 28, 2018, 08:51:47 AM
The vehicles keep getting better & better.....they will really help your layout come to life..... 8)
Thanks, Greg. I hope to get back to work on the layout after the first of the year.
The next step was to determine the location of the bolsters and axles. The side view in the instructions is not to scale, so I used a little basic math, plus used the laser lines in the tongue to decide where to glue the bolsters. Using the laser lines on the tongue to locate the rear bolster and rear axle meant the hounds (the diagonal braces from the tongue to the rear axle) stuck out behind the axle. I have seen wagons where these were left sticking out, I chose to trim mine when I finished construction of the wagon. Another option would have been to lengthen the wheelbase of the running gear by gluing the hounds to the rear axle rather than having them stick out past the rear axle.
Next I glued the fifth wheel to the front axle. The fifth wheel is the semi-circular piece. It helps keep the wagon stable when the front axle pivots around the kingpin when the wagon is making a turn. I used ACC for this joint to keep the assembly as rigid as possible.
I also drilled the front axle for the installation of the kingpin.
The second photo shows the front axle in place on the kingpin, and that using the kingpin allows the axle to pivot. The instructions suggest gluing the front axle to the bolster, but I do not know where I will use this wagon on my layout, so wanted the option to be able to position the front axle after the wagon was placed on the layout.
Next, I painted the "rims". I used some full strength acrylic for this, choosing Raw Sienna craft paint to simulate fresh rust. I dipped my brush in the paint, then unloaded part of the paint onto a piece of cardstock before applying the paint to the wheel rim. By using the paint without thinning it, and unloading the brush, I was able to apply the rust color without having it bleed onto the felloe (the wood part that the rim is seated on).
I drilled out the centers of the wheels with a .022 drill to make sure they would slid easily on the .020 axles. After test fitting the wheels, I thought they were too close to the wagon box sides. I drilled some Evergreen styrene rod and made some hubs for the ends of the axles. I would drill into the rod using a .022 drill in a pin vise, slice it on my Chopper, then drill from the blind end. I did this because I found if I tried to drill completely through prior to cutting the hubs to length the drill would wander off center, rendering the hub un-useable. I made my hubs roughly 6 scale inches long and ACC'd them in place on the wire stub axles. Once I had everything assembled I realized I probably should have made the hubs about half as long, something I will change when I build another wagon.
Once I had the wheels in place I drilled out the skeins with a .022 drill in a pin vise. I removed the skeins from the carrier sheet and glued them on the ends of the axles tight against the outside of the wheels. Then I used flush cutting pliers to cut the axles to length and did some paint touch up to cover the shiny ends of the brass axles. I also painted the white plastic hubs red to match the wood axles.
I waited until now to build the seat. I wanted to be able to fasten the running gear to the bottom of the wagon box without worrying about breaking the seat. I found the seat to be by far the most difficult part of the build. I ended up cutting the tabs from the seat sides since I had no success opening the slots in the seat bottom. I tried to use a sharp scalpel blade to open the slots up so the tabs would fit without forcing them, but was unsuccessful. Due to the thin cross section, I felt that it was batter to "lose" the tabs than to damage the seat bottom. Note that there is a right way to assemble the sides and bottom of the seat, the tabs in the seat bottom are offset, not centered from front to back. I used ACC to assemble the seat.
Usually, when I try to do a build thread, despite my best intentions, I manage to skip a couple photos. That is what happened in this case. I partially assembled the seat, took a pic, then finished the seat assembly. At this point, I dry fitted the seat onto the wagon and grabbed a seated figure to see how everything looked. I did not like how the seat looked as designed. I removed material from the top front of both sides and moved the seat forward to the front of the wagon box.
Then I used some of the leftover carrier sheet to fabricate a foot rest, something omitted from the kit. Note that not all farm wagons had foot rests, so the lack of one is not an issue. I cut two pieces from the carrier sheet the width of the wagon box, one about 12" scale, the other about 6" scale, and assembled then at a slight angle I filed onto one piece with an emery board. I used ACC for this assembly, again preferring its rigidity to the potential slight flex of a white glue joint. There is no photo of this assembly, though how it was made should be apparent from the photos of the finished wagon.
I thought that it looked a little "bare" in front of the rear axle, so I decided to add a brake beam to the wagon. Major disclaimer. My wagon brake is very basic, none of the linkage is modeled, and the brake beam is glued fast to the bottom of the wagon bed in a non-prototypic manner. The brake beam is actually cut from one of the thills (the sides of the one horse hitch) provided with the kit. The brake shoes are some short pieces of styrene strip. I believe I used 2x6 stock for them, IIRC.
I wanted to add a brake lever to the wagon, and used a piece of Evergreen 1x3 for this part. I tried to drill this out to insert a piece of .020 wire to mount it to the wagon, but kept ruining the 1x3. I drilled a piece of 2x4 Evergreen strip, cut it to make a small block, and then used plastic cement to attach it to the 1x3 lever. I ACC'd the piece of wire to the bottom of the wagon, allowing the 1x3 to clear the side of the wagon box by a couple scale inches. I left the lever longer than I needed, and cut it to what looked like a good length after everything was assembled.
A quick note on prototype wagon brakes. Many (most?) use a rod that attaches to the lever and goes along the side of the wagon to the brake beam. Other styles have the actuating rod underneath the wagon and use a lever arm arrangement to apply the brake shoes to the rear wheels. Usually there is a notched iron bolted to the side of the box so the brake lever can be held in a notch to keep the brakes locked on. I have also seen a brake latch that used a dog style latch to keep the brakes locked. I chose to omit both the operating rod and any type of latch, feeling that the lever itself did a sufficient job of obtaining a satisfactory level of detail for me.
Here again, I failed to take a photo of the brake lever assembly once I cut the block and wire to length. I think what I did should be fairly clear from the photos I did remember to take.
This pretty well wraps up construction except for a couple notes. I used a piece of the carrier sheet to make the double tree hitch for the rear of the wagon tongue. I am still considering adding the individual single trees the horses would have been hitched to, not sure if adding them is worth the effort. There is a pretty high probability that they will get broken since they would have little gluing area where they fasten to the double tree.
I chose the tongue in preference to the thills used for a one horse hitch. The laser cut thills that come with the kit seem unrealistic to me. First of all, I have never seen thills that were not round, the laser cut part is clearly rectangular, though this could be corrected with some judicious filing. Also, the distance between them seems too far apart, and they lack the curve that is usually found near the front of the thills. In addition, farm wagons were capable of being loaded heavily, so a two horse hitch was much more common, at least where I live in the northeast.
I really like this wagon. I think it is extremely well designed, especially in the area of the running gear. In my opinion, the directions, or lack thereof, are its biggest drawback. It is a shame that Bar Mills does not offer it separately from their structure kits, especially with the demise of Jordan.
Jerry, thanks very much for this build thread. I will certainly refer to it when I get to one of these beauties. Your results are fantastic! That is a real gem for a special spot on a layout.
--George
George,
Thank you. I really enjoyed putting this wagon together and felt it was a shame that the directions were lacking, at least IMO.
I have finished up a pair of trucks that I have had on the bench for far too long. I usually try to build at least two vehicles at a time because I find it is more efficient than working on just one. The Mack AC log truck is a ConCor model with screened openings on the hood replacing the louvers. The trucks were originally built with screened ventilation openings in at least three different shapes. Many of the earlier AC's also had wood spoked wheels, something I also added to this truck. The Mack dump is by Jordan and is built as a stock kit I built many years ago. The mack AC tank truck is by ConCor, it too was built long ago. The Diamond T is a Woodland Scenics grain truck with the stake body that came in the ConCor Mack kit.
Awesome addition to your collection , well done.
Very nice Jerry. I have similar vehicles (both horse-powered and not) to build for my period layout...someday. Good work!
John
Great looking trucks.
Jeff
Sweet! Nice job...
Great looking trucks Jerry. I have a Woodland Scenic kit laying around, you did a great job indeed on making that one look real. I have your truck builds bookmarked for when I build my own batch next time.
Jim D
Well done Jerry..... 8)
Hey Jerry:
Very nicely done. Love the red one.
Karl
Quote from: Janbouli on April 02, 2019, 04:39:48 AM
Awesome addition to your collection , well done.
Jan,
Thanks for stopping by, I appreciate the compliment.
Quote from: cuse on April 02, 2019, 06:23:01 AM
Very nice Jerry. I have similar vehicles (both horse-powered and not) to build for my period layout...someday. Good work!
John
John,
Thanks. I really enjoy building vehicles, hope you have as much fun when you get to yours.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 02, 2019, 07:12:10 AM
Great looking trucks.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you. Always nice to get positive feedback.
Quote from: Raymo on April 03, 2019, 07:25:17 AM
Sweet! Nice job...
Thank you, Dan. It means a lot coming from you.
Quote from: Jim Donovan on April 03, 2019, 08:54:39 AM
Great looking trucks Jerry. I have a Woodland Scenic kit laying around, you did a great job indeed on making that one look real. I have your truck builds bookmarked for when I build my own batch next time.
Jim D
Thanks, Jim.
I find the biggest issues with Woodland Scenics trucks are getting the cab to fit down onto the seat, and joining the two frame sections together. I usually end up doing quite a bit of filing to square up the seat base. I also find I have to do some filing to get the two frame halves to fit together. I use epoxy to attach the two frame halves and it takes some effort to get them to fit together well and have the frame line up straight.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 03, 2019, 04:42:30 PM
Well done Jerry..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the positive reinforcement. Cool emoji, too. 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: postalkarl on April 03, 2019, 04:56:19 PM
Hey Jerry:
Very nicely done. Love the red one.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for the kind words.
Here's a shot of three of the Woodland Scenics trucks. The dump truck uses a dump body from the WS Federal truck kit. The Federal truck was converted to a stake body truck and is posted on page 1 of this thread. The truck with the boom is pretty much stock except I omitted the windshield and added the cable reel. The stake truck you have obviously seen before, and features cab sides modified by adding styrene piece to the sides of the cab.
Jerry,
Wow, those vehicles are really nicely done. Excellent job on all of them, they look fantastic.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 04, 2019, 11:49:36 AM
Jerry,
Wow, those vehicles are really nicely done. Excellent job on all of them, they look fantastic.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the nice compliment, it is much appreciated.
Jerry
The vehicles look great!
John,
Thanks for the nice comment. I apologize for not seeing this and thanking you in a more timely fashion.
I usually try to work on some vehicles during the summer when I have less time to model. That way even fifteen or twenty minutes spent modeling allows me to feel like I have made some progress. I finished the final chalk weathering on a couple trucks over the weekend and thought I'd post pics. Both trucks were in a group of vehicles that my friend Jim (whiskeyriver) purchased from ebay and gave me when he went to O scale. Paint jobs on both were glossy, not to mention uneven and streaky. I stripped the paint on the Mack using Super Clean, repainted it with a rattle can and scratchbuilt the flat bed for it. I managed to simply repaint the Model T with a brush and some Vallejo acrylics, replaced a missing wheel and tire and added the load to the bed.
Jerry,
Great looking trucks, very well done.
Tom ;D
I agree great looking truck's.....Dennis
Nice job!
good looking trucks Raymo
Jerry
Very nice work!
Hey There:
the truck are just beautifully done.
Karl
Quote from: sdrees on September 09, 2019, 12:07:34 PM
good looking trucks Raymo
Not my work, this belongs to Jerry!😃
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 09, 2019, 10:57:53 AM
Jerry,
Great looking trucks, very well done.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for stopping in and your nice comment.
Quote from: DennisBourey on September 09, 2019, 11:46:17 AM
I agree great looking truck's.....Dennis
Dennis,
Thanks. I'm glad you like them.
Quote from: Raymo on September 09, 2019, 12:01:25 PM
Nice job!
Dan,
Thanks, always nice to get a compliment from you.
Quote from: sdrees on September 09, 2019, 12:07:34 PM
good looking trucks Raymo
Steve,
Thanks for the kind words.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 09, 2019, 12:26:51 PM
Jerry
Very nice work!
John,
Thanks for taking the time to leave a nice comment.
Quote from: postalkarl on September 09, 2019, 01:30:28 PM
Hey There:
the truck are just beautifully done.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you for checking in and leaving a nice comment.
I've been working on and off on a pair of Liberty trucks. The Liberty trucks were commissioned by the Army as part of the war effort. They were manufactured by many different companies using standardized components. If you are interested you can visit Wikipedia or https://libertytruck.org/ (https://libertytruck.org/) There are several trucks preserved in various military museums. When the war ended, production was halted leaving the trucks no longer needed for the war effort as surplus. These trucks were sold to the public. I found my trucks on Shapeways and purchased the "fine detail plastic" version. As you can see in the photos, this may not have been the best choice as the finish is quite rough. If you are considering a purchase you might want to opt for the more expensive "ultra fine detail plastic" version. I added stripwood to the floor of the beds as well as the front bulkhead. I also added shift levers and brake levers and exhaust pipes and mufflers. I used some plastic to add a larger more typical side box or tool box under the bed on one of the trucks. The lumber load is built up from balsa sheet and is (obviously) removable. This is pretty obvious as I failed to seat it completely on the truck bed before taking the photo. Jordans they ain't, but they do add variety to my truck fleet.
While I was working on the Liberty trucks I also worked on an FWD truck that I ordered from Shapeways. Like the Liberty trucks, I ordered the "fine detail plastic" and it too has a rough finish. Again, if you are considering a purchase you might be better served by paying more for the "ultra fine detail plastic". The blue stake bodied truck is the Shapeways truck. I added a stripwood floor inside the bed, exhaust pipe and muffler, crank, front step, and the gearshift levers from a Woodland Scenics truck. The driver is Preiser.
The red FWD truck is a cheat. It is a 1/72 scale Roden plastic kit with a Rusty Rail log load. I changed the large stock wood spoke wheels for some Don Mills pneumatic tired wheels that were smaller in diameter. This truck has outstanding detail. I calculated it to be about 18% oversize, and actually ordered the Shapeways 1/87th truck for size comparison. As you can see, the red truck is not that much larger than the scale truck. I much prefer the detail on this truck to the Shapeways truck, and will cheat again. The drivers for both trucks are by Preiser and are HO scale.
Those look great Jerry! I bought the Roden kit as well after seeing this video. Thought the 18% scale difference is worth the detail in the kit!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuDXJXxIA4Q
Black Dog Models has a lot also trucks and buses and other's. Dennis
https://blackdog-model.com/en-kategorie_689613-0-72.html
https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Voman-Omnibus-7-or-660-accessories-set-for-Roden.html
Looking great Jerry , maybe it's the photo but I actually think the overall size of the Roden truck is a bit bigger but the things that set the scale for my eyes like the steering wheel , radiator , seat look smaller on the Roden truck , making it look a lot better then the Shapeways.
Great looking trucks Jerry. Shapeways has some great vehicles available. Great vintage vehicles!
Quote from: Rail and Tie on April 12, 2020, 09:35:43 PM
Those look great Jerry! I bought the Roden kit as well after seeing this video. Thought the 18% scale difference is worth the detail in the kit!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuDXJXxIA4Q (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuDXJXxIA4Q)
Darryl,
I totally agree that the Roden model has so much better detail. At the time I built it there was no HO scale truck available on Shapeways. When parked next to a Jordan Mack AC, it looks fine. Of course, in reality the FWD trucks were smaller than an AC. My plan is to keep it at a reasonable distance from the scale trucks. The Don Mills wheels I used lowered the truck a scale 3" +/-. While that does not seem like much, it really did improve its looks in comparison to the scale trucks. I tried smaller wheels and tires but the tire to fender gap and the lack of ground clearance under the differentials seemed objectionable to me. Here's a link to the wheels and tires I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carnival-5-Spoked-Cast-Steel-Wheel-Sets-1-87-Scale-By-Don-Mills-Models/312326854033?hash=item48b8219591:g:BioAAOSw0~pb8cW4
Quote from: Janbouli on April 13, 2020, 04:48:55 AM
Looking great Jerry , maybe it's the photo but I actually think the overall size of the Roden truck is a bit bigger but the things that set the scale for my eyes like the steering wheel , radiator , seat look smaller on the Roden truck , making it look a lot better then the Shapeways.
Jan,
Thanks for the kind words. I was disappointed in the thickness of the steering wheel on the Shapeways truck. I have a couple trucks from a different designer and they are much better in the size of the wheel and the bodies are much smoother using the same "fine detail plastic". I think the delicacy of the operating levers, etc., also help the Roden model to look more scale.
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on April 12, 2020, 10:18:29 PM
Black Dog Models has a lot also trucks and buses and other's. Dennis
https://blackdog-model.com/en-kategorie_689613-0-72.html (https://blackdog-model.com/en-kategorie_689613-0-72.html)
https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Voman-Omnibus-7-or-660-accessories-set-for-Roden.html (https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Voman-Omnibus-7-or-660-accessories-set-for-Roden.html)
Dennis,
There are a lot of interesting kits on both sites. Unfortunately, none fit my era. I continue to search for kits that would offer some variety in the vehicles of my era.
Quote from: Raymo on April 13, 2020, 08:05:32 AM
Great looking trucks Jerry. Shapeways has some great vehicles available. Great vintage vehicles!
Dan,
Thanks for the compliment. I find Shapeways can be hard to search, but I keep checking back because there are new vehicles added quite often. While some of the Shapeways trucks are not that detailed, they do offer a way to add some variety to what I see as a limited selection of cars and trucks for my 1920 era.
Jerry,
Wow, the trucks look fantastic and very well done. Great job. I'll need to try my hand at one of those.
Tom ;D
I Really miss (Jordan highway miniatures ) It is really hard to find anything in the earlier era then now without spending your life savings..Dennis
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 13, 2020, 10:21:12 AM
Jerry,
Wow, the trucks look fantastic and very well done. Great job. I'll need to try my hand at one of those.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the compliment. Given your mad skills, one of these should be the proverbial piece of cake for you!
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on April 13, 2020, 11:16:04 AM
I Really miss (Jordan highway miniatures ) It is really hard to find anything in the earlier era then now without spending your life savings..Dennis
Dennis,
I think we all miss the Jordan offerings. Still, there are some reasonably priced options if you know where to look. One example is these beautiful Model T's from Rail & Tie. http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4301.0
Wow Jerry I liked that thanks. I was looking at other's but cant seem to decide. I bought a few Micro Engineering Wheel Work's and a few Woodland Scenic and Classic Metal Works. But just doesn't seem the same. own opinion ....Dennis
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on April 14, 2020, 08:56:25 AM
Wow Jerry I liked that thanks. I was looking at other's but cant seem to decide. I bought a few Micro Engineering Wheel Work's and a few Woodland Scenic and Classic Metal Works. But just doesn't seem the same. own opinion ....Dennis
Dennis,
I am guessing from your mention of Wheel Works that your era is newer than mine. Have you checked out the trucks available from Wiseman Model Services? He has a great line of period cars and trucks. Here is a link to his line of Packard autos: https://wisemanmodelservices.com/HO-Scale-HOn3/HO-NATIONAL-MOTOR-COMPANY-PACKARDS IMO, these are very reasonably priced.
I wanted to make sure that people are aware that there are some finely detailed vehicles with a very smooth finish available from Shapeways. This is a photo of a pair of Berliet trucks. These are the "fine detail plastic", and are also available in the "ultra fine detail plastic" at a slightly higher cost. They are from a different designer and I believe that may be why these trucks have a smoother finish than the FWD and Liberty trucks.
Hi Jerry, I'm looking for 30's thru the 40's. I have some stuff from the 20's when there available. Thanks Dennis
Dennis,
Check this ebay store. I have never bought one of his vehicles but I do have some of his detail castings and they are IM very good.
https://www.ebay.com/str/stoneymountainclassiccastings
Also, check out Sylvan Sale Models. Many (most?) of the vehicles Dan Raymond builds are Sylvan and he has cars from the late 20's through the 50's.
I sent you a PM.
What era are you looking at? Must be tough if your before 1920's? I just looked at https://www.interactionhobbies.com Very nice wood model's. Thanks Jerry. Dennis
I wanted to post a couple shot of the Ford Model T truck that I had posted previously on Darryl's (Interaction Hobbies) Model T thread. Moving on, I have been working on a Jordan 1904 Oldsmobile that Dennis Bourey sent me. I have never built this Jordan offering before and am really enjoying the way this goes together. I thought I would post a quick pic of the subassemblies and parts that I spray painted. Painting was done with rattle cans because I wanted to use multiple colors and hate to clean my airbrush.
Very nice Jerry.
ed
Jerry:
very well done. Thanks for posting.
Karl
Ed and Karl,
Thank you both. Always nice to have positive comments.
I finished up the 1904 Jordan Oldsmobile. This thing is tiny. I posed it with a Jordan Mack AC to give some size perspective. I'm calling this "done" as I do not intend to build the track inspection car included in the kit.
There is a crazy amount of detail in this model. It features a motor, radiator, and muffler, all somewhat visible underneath the chassis.
Jerry,
Great job on the vehicles. you make it look so easy.
Tom ;D
Working on those tiny kits makes me thing you are a man of infinite patience Jerry.....well done. 8)
Wow Jerry, That came out awesome and it's so tiny lol....Dennis
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 31, 2020, 01:57:02 PM
Jerry,
Great job on the vehicles. you make it look so easy.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the compliment. I find using a magnifier, some good tweezers, and applying the glue with either a fine brush or the tip of a wire (with a dowel handle) helps the process.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 31, 2020, 01:57:02 PM
Jerry,
Great job on the vehicles. you make it look so easy.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for the compliment. I find a strong magnifier, some good tweezers, and applying the glue with a very small brush or a wire (with a dowel handle) makes the process easier.
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 31, 2020, 06:27:23 PM
Working on those tiny kits makes me thing you are a man of infinite patience Jerry.....well done. 8)
Greg,
Jaime says this hobby takes the patience of a saint. ;D I really enjoy building vehicles because it is easy to see progress in short order where other parts of the hobby require more time before you see your work coming together.
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on May 31, 2020, 07:05:24 PM
Wow Jerry, That came out awesome and it's so tiny lol....Dennis
Dennis,
I was surprised how small it is. Still, IMO this is one of the easier Jordans I have done. The parts fit together well and once I started it just seemed to flow. Thanks for your generosity.
My Pleasure Jerry. Thank you also.......Dennis
Fantastic work Jerry. I have built a few Jordons - I spent most of my time looking for the little parts on the floor under my workbench. :-[
John,
Thanks for the kind words. I'd be a liar if I said I didn't spend time looking for parts I dropped. Nice too know I'm not alone in that.
hey Jerry:
They look just great.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on June 03, 2020, 10:55:02 AM
hey Jerry:
They look just great.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for dropping in and the kind words.
I've been working on a couple Jordan Model T's, a 1925 coupe / pickup and a mail truck. I thought I had taken more photos of the construction process, but as usual, once I got rolling I forgot to take all the shots I intended. I will post what I did take as well as a couple tips I find make the construction of the T's easier.
FWIW, the original price of the mail truck was $1.50, with a note on the instruction sheet that said it was purchased at a swap meet in 1983, again for $1.50. It also had a $4 price tag on it, apparently what I paid.
On the mail truck I sprayed the outside of the body with a Rattle can of olive drab camo color. I thought I took a pic of this, oops. Then I masked off the camo after it had dried for a couple days and finished spraying the interior, underframe, wheels, etc., all with various rattle cans. After the wheels were dry I used Vallejo dark gray to paint the tires, interior floor, etc.
OK, now for a couple tips that may make construction easier. First, the underframe has a nice rendition of the pivoting joint where the radius rods fasten to the bottom of the bell housing. The issue I find it that this means the gluing area is tiny. I either remove the "bump" with a file or knife, or I glue the radius rods in front of this piece. The instructions refer to this as a "pad". This gives a much larger gluing area where the radius rods fasten to the bottom of the bell housing. The pic shows my scalpel blade pointing at the "pad".
I also glue the rear spring to the underframe using a small drop of liquid plastic cement. Then I glue the front of the driveshaft to the rear of the transmission, again with a small drop of plastic cement. I then flex the rear spring until it lines up with the axle and when everything is lined properly I use ACC to glue the spring to the axle. I find this much easier than the directions that call for gluing the spring to the axle and then gluing the assembly to the underframe. The ends of the springs where they glue to the axle are very small, so by fastening the larger gluing surfaces first I find it easier to get everything aligned.
My last tip is that after a joint is in place and the initial application of cement or ACC has set, I add fillets of ACC to every joint using the tip of a wire as an applicator. I always add the wheels last, again a small application of ACC and a fillet around the joint after the first application has set. If the wheels do not all touch a flat surface evenly i have had good success using a small flat blade screwdriver to twist the rear spring until that axle matches the alignment of the front axle.
Wow! I left everyone hanging for far too long. The mail truck was done some time last summer but I failed to take and post photos. I wrapped up the final assembly and touchup of the sedan last evening. So, photos of both. IMO having nothing but black Ford Model T's is prototypic but pretty boring on a layout. I cheat and use dark blue, dark green, and dark gray to add a little variety. FWIW, the instructions for the mail truck call for olive drab color I used.
I noticed that some of the Jordan Ford sedans on the F&SM have the windows dullcoated and thought I would try it on this particular kit. I'm not sure I like it, anyone have any thoughts?
They look great! Ford for the most part didn't start painting Model T's in colors till about the mid 20's but I'm sure there were exceptions through out their run.
Thanks Dan. Compliments on my vehicles from you are always appreciated.
Nice job on the Model T's. I prefer the clear windows.
Jeff
Jerry,
Nice, very well done. These are not easy to build and yours make it look easy.
Tom ;D
Beautiful Job Jerry......Dennis
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 28, 2020, 07:21:49 PM
Nice job on the Model T's. I prefer the clear windows.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not really a fan of the frosted windows, don't think I'll do it again. It does speed up construction, I left the interior out of that car.
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 28, 2020, 07:33:07 PM
Jerry,
Nice, very well done. These are not easy to build and yours make it look easy.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for your comment. I find like anything else, practice makes it easier. (Nothing I do is perfect.) ;D
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on October 28, 2020, 07:52:01 PM
Beautiful Job Jerry......Dennis
Dennis,
I appreciate you checking the thread and your nice comment. Hope you are making some progress on your layout.
Jerry
The vehicles look great. I agree with Jeff that the clear windows look better to me. On a layout I would you some of each to create different looks. The dulcoate would look great in a vehicle in a alley or shadowed scene.
Jerry what a great job you've done on those cars!
I like the clear better though.
Jerry
Update is tonight Jerry.....Dennis
Quote from: S&S RR on October 29, 2020, 09:15:59 AM
Jerry
The vehicles look great. I agree with Jeff that the clear windows look better to me. On a layout I would you some of each to create different looks. The dulcoate would look great in a vehicle in a alley or shadowed scene.
John,
Thanks for your nice comment. I like the idea of using the car with dullcoated windows as a scene filler away from the front of the layout, parked between buildings, etc.
Quote from: Jerry on October 29, 2020, 11:43:06 AM
Jerry what a great job you've done on those cars!
I like the clear better though.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks for stopping by, your compliment, and your input on the windows. I'm with you, though the clear windows are more challenging to glue in place without fogging.
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on October 29, 2020, 03:12:06 PM
Update is tonight Jerry.....Dennis
Dennis,
Looking forward to it!
Here is a shot of both Model T sedans, the one with the frosted windows, the one with the clear windows. FWIW, the one is a soft black, the other is a very dark blue.
Jerry I like them both. But still prefer the clear windows!
Anyway I think you did a great job on both.
Jerry
I've only built one Jordan and found it's a lot harder than I expected. I'll do it again, for sure, but wow... I'm impressed here.
Jerry,
I like them both; however the dirty/clear windows look better to me. Having said that, I'd use them both on the A&S, with no hesitation.
Tom ;D
Good job Jerry..... 8)
Ditto, fantastic job on those, Jerry. The first few Jordan's I built drove me crazy, but the more I built them, the more I realized what great models they produce once you get used to a few of their eccentricities. Congrats also for getting all four tires square to the ground. That remains one of my biggest challenges with Jordans.
On the dull-coated windows, park it in an alley and just explain that there's a bit of heavy osculation in progress inside.
"Listen, buddy, this old cab has seen osculation but..."
"You ain't seen anything yet. You've got to drive us to the station."
--Cary Grant as Mortimer Brewster to Cabbie, in Arsenic & Old Lace, 1944
--Opa George
Quote from: Jerry on December 21, 2020, 05:36:18 PM
Jerry I like them both. But still prefer the clear windows!
Anyway I think you did a great job on both.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks for the nice comment, I'm a fan of the clear windows myself. I won't be building any more with frosted windows unless I manage to fog the glass so bad I have to frost them. ;D
Quote from: Rusty Robot on December 21, 2020, 06:31:17 PM
I've only built one Jordan and found it's a lot harder than I expected. I'll do it again, for sure, but wow... I'm impressed here.
Craig,
Thanks for the kind words. I find the more I build the easier it gets.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 22, 2020, 08:35:00 AM
Jerry,
I like them both; however the dirty/clear windows look better to me. Having said that, I'd use them both on the A&S, with no hesitation.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Reading that you would use them on the A&S is flattering to say the least.
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 22, 2020, 09:11:26 AM
Good job Jerry..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the nice comment.
Quote from: Opa George on December 23, 2020, 06:35:20 PM
Ditto, fantastic job on those, Jerry. The first few Jordan's I built drove me crazy, but the more I built them, the more I realized what great models they produce once you get used to a few of their eccentricities. Congrats also for getting all four tires square to the ground. That remains one of my biggest challenges with Jordans.
On the dull-coated windows, park it in an alley and just explain that there's a bit of heavy osculation in progress inside.
"Listen, buddy, this old cab has seen osculation but..."
"You ain't seen anything yet. You've got to drive us to the station."
--Cary Grant as Mortimer Brewster to Cabbie, in Arsenic & Old Lace, 1944
--Opa George
George,
Wow, a movie quote. I love it! Great explanation for the frosted windows. I hope you don't mind if I "borrow" it.
If you look back a page or two I explained how I adjust the axles to get all four tires to sit on the ground. One of my first builds was so bad I modeled it up on a jack with the tire being changed.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 26, 2020, 08:09:47 AM
If you look back a page or two I explained how I adjust the axles to get all four tires to sit on the ground. One of my first builds was so bad I modeled it up on a jack with the tire being changed.
Found it! I must have jumped back into the thread just after that post. Great tips for completing the underbody with a minimum of frustration, by the way.
--Opa George
George,
I'm glad the tips I offered could make these fiddly little gems somewhat easier to build. By the way, a little birdie told me Dan Raymond's build for the challenge will be a Jordan Model A, so more tips are coming soon.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 28, 2020, 07:26:26 AM
George,
I'm glad the tips I offered could make these fiddly little gems somewhat easier to build. By the way, a little birdie told me Dan Raymond's build for the challenge will be a Jordan Model A, so more tips are coming soon.
That's right! It's actually been a fun little build.
Hey Jerry:
Beautiful job on those two vehicles.
Karl
Jerry,
Sometimes it pays to check out every thread on this forum...your work on these cars and trucks is fantastic !!!
Thanks for sharing your talent for all these vehicles you made for the layout.
Tommy
Jerry,
I've thoroughly enjoyed this thread. Your skills with the Jordan kits is envious. Thanks very much for the tips.
Tom ;D
Hell your just not a farmer!! Your one hell of a car modeler!!
Jerry
Quote from: postalkarl on December 28, 2020, 06:04:48 PM
Hey Jerry:
Beautiful job on those two vehicles.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for the nice comment!
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on December 29, 2020, 12:52:11 PM
Jerry,
Sometimes it pays to check out every thread on this forum...your work on these cars and trucks is fantastic !!!
Thanks for sharing your talent for all these vehicles you made for the layout.
Tommy
Tom,
Thanks for checking in and the kind words. I try to offer some tips as well as finished photos. I always struggle with build threads, I get so wrapped up in the construction I forget to take photos of every step.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 29, 2020, 02:30:13 PM
Jerry,
I've thoroughly enjoyed this thread. Your skills with the Jordan kits is envious. Thanks very much for the tips.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I'm glad to be able to offer you tips of any kind since It seems like I'm always learning from you. Glad you found the thread enjoyable.
Quote from: Jerry on December 29, 2020, 05:14:03 PM
Hell your just not a farmer!! Your one hell of a car modeler!!
Jerry
Jerry,
A farmer has to be a "jack of all trades". Fortunately for me, I get to ply my non-farming skills in a great hobby. Thanks for your nice compliment.
Wow. I cannot believe I haven't added any vehicles in over a year. I'm going to rectify that somewhat with a couple pics. The drag scoop and two wheel dump cart are by Musket Miniatures. AFAIK, they are not available at this time. The dump carts were used for railroad construction. I recently saw a photo on the internet of a couple being used with a steam shovel on the NYO&W. I repurposed mine by loading it with firewood. The figure is by Preiser.
Next photo is of a 1919 Reo Speedwagon. This is a 3D printed model from Shapeways. It came with two porthole windows on each side. I used a file to enlarge and square up two of the side windows. This truck has an interior complete with seat and steering wheel. By enlarging the windows and reaching through them as well as the side and front windows I brush painted the interior. The windshield and windows are done with Gallery Glass from Michael's.
I took a few minutes to go through this thread and found quite a bit of it has disappeared. I know I have some of the missing photos, I'll have to search for a couple that may have been lost.
Either way, I'll restore as much of this thread as possible and add some additional vehicles that were completed when the forum was down. Stay tuned.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 08, 2023, 08:57:35 AMI took a few minutes to go through this thread and found quite a bit of it has disappeared. I know I have some of the missing photos, I'll have to search for a couple that may have been lost.
Either way, I'll restore as much of this thread as possible and add some additional vehicles that were completed when the forum was down. Stay tuned.
Jerry, any missing photos that were attachments are expected. I tried my best to restore them but there were just too many corruptions. You should not have any missing posts, however.
edit: I am seeing some missing pages, actually. I will investigate.
Like the scoop and the speed wagon is an unusual looking truck, not too aerodynamic..... 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 08, 2023, 09:17:07 AMLike the scoop and the speed wagon is an unusual looking truck, not too aerodynamic..... 8)
Greg,
Thanks for the nice words. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Quote from: Keep It Rusty on December 08, 2023, 09:14:20 AMQuote from: jerryrbeach on December 08, 2023, 08:57:35 AMI took a few minutes to go through this thread and found quite a bit of it has disappeared. I know I have some of the missing photos, I'll have to search for a couple that may have been lost.
Either way, I'll restore as much of this thread as possible and add some additional vehicles that were completed when the forum was down. Stay tuned.
Jerry, any missing photos that were attachments are expected. I tried my best to restore them but there were just too many corruptions. You should not have any missing posts, however.
edit: I am seeing some missing pages, actually. I will investigate.
Craig,
If you are able to restore the missing pages for the verbiage it would help me figure out where the missing photos belong. If you cannot find them it is not a huge deal, I know one thing missing is a build of a Bar Mills wagon, the other is the tips on building Jordan Model T's. I believe I have most if not all the photos that are missing. I will wait to see if you can somewhat restore the pages before I post on this thread.
Thank you again for everything you have done and continue to do so we can connect with our friends and share our modeling.
Continuing to investigate, Jerry. Weirdly, all the posts exist in the database on the server -- meaning it's a forum bug. Pages 7 and 8 seem to be the ones affected. I'll keep you updated!
Jerry, after spending some time looking into this, I finally discovered the problem. For some reason, the images attached to your posts in pages 7 & 8 were corrupting the thread. I have "surgically" removed them from the database restoring the thread.
The only issue is, of course, that the images from the posts on those two affected pages are now missing. Fortunately, there were only 5 posts affected.
For ease, those posts are (in order):
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=140938
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=140994
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=142083
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=142084
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=148313
You can go back and edit those posts, so please reattach/reupload the images as you can. Given you have said you still have all the images, hopefully, you can finish restoring this thread in its entirety!
Craig