Airbrushes...types, usages, paints, cleaning

Started by ranny9, December 19, 2014, 07:51:41 AM

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ranny9

I own two airbrushes and a really good compressor. My first airbrush was a Badger, and my second is a Paasche H-3, single action external mix, with a gravity feed cup on the side. I have had them for years, and have not quite gotten the hang of using them. I'd like to start a discussion for the archives of YOUR likes and dislikes of using an airbrush. Bottle feed, side feed, gravity feed; single action vs. double action, smelly Floquil type paints vs. acrylic paints; how to thin paints; how to clean the airbrush; storage of leftover mixed colors... etc.


ReadingBob

Great topic!

I started with a Badger but now use a Paasche Talon Double Action Gravity fed airbrush.  For a compressor I went out and got a regular (non-hobby) compressor.  I've used Floquil exclusively but I guess I have to bite the bullet and experiment with different types of acrylic paints.  I usually mix only what I need and don't try to store the leftovers.  As far as actually painting things most of what I've done is solid colors.  Priming castings, final colors on doors and windows, etc.  I have messed around, with some success, applying layers of colors to shingles to create some interesting effects.  I want to experiment with using it to weather engines and freight cars (ACL1504 is a master at this).

After every use I run a little thinner through the brush and then disassemble the body and give everything a thorough cleaning before reassembling it and putting it away.  All my painting is done out in my driveway.  Given the high levels of humidity down here in Florida a moisture trap is an absolute must have.

I didn't think I'd like the gravity fed, cup on top airbrush but I really found that it's not a problem.  It's not like I'm turning it upside down or sideways when I'm painting.  If I don't fill the cup more than 3/4's of the way the paint doesn't spill out of the cup.

The one thing I do make sure of before I start a session is that I have ample time to do what needs to be done and properly clean the air brush when I'm finished.  You can't really drop what you're doing and come back to it the next day.  Well, you can, but you won't like what you find.   ;)

I'm looking forward to hearing about others experience with acrylics.
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Slim Jerkins

I've got an Iwata HP-CS. It's a great a double acting gravity feed airbrush. Super easy to clean, disassemble and reassemble.

I shoot cheap acrylics with it but haven't really perfected the mix. They're funny. When you get them thin enough to shoot they can be a little too thin. This is when the double-action helps out.

My compressor is an OLD "Penncrest" (J.C.Penny) diaphragm compressor that looks identical to the Badger compressors built at the same time. So, Badger was doing a private label for Penny's about 50 years ago. Surprised that the compressor still works!

-slim   

ranny9

Quote from: Slim Jerkins on December 19, 2014, 10:23:03 AM
I've got an Iwata HP-CS. It's a great a double acting gravity feed airbrush. Super easy to clean, disassemble and reassemble.

I shoot cheap acrylics with it but haven't really perfected the mix. They're funny. When you get them thin enough to shoot they can be a little too thin. This is when the double-action helps out.

My compressor is an OLD "Penncrest" (J.C.Penny) diaphragm compressor that looks identical to the Badger compressors built at the same time. So, Badger was doing a private label for Penny's about 50 years ago. Surprised that the compressor still works!

-slim

We're surprised YOU still work hehehehehehe

S&S RR

Quote from: Randee on December 19, 2014, 10:30:36 AM
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on December 19, 2014, 10:23:03 AM
I've got an Iwata HP-CS. It's a great a double acting gravity feed airbrush. Super easy to clean, disassemble and reassemble.

I shoot cheap acrylics with it but haven't really perfected the mix. They're funny. When you get them thin enough to shoot they can be a little too thin. This is when the double-action helps out.

My compressor is an OLD "Penncrest" (J.C.Penny) diaphragm compressor that looks identical to the Badger compressors built at the same time. So, Badger was doing a private label for Penny's about 50 years ago. Surprised that the compressor still works!

-slim

We're surprised YOU still work hehehehehehe


;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;)
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Slim Jerkins

Quote from: Randee on December 19, 2014, 10:30:36 AM
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on December 19, 2014, 10:23:03 AM
I've got an Iwata HP-CS. It's a great a double acting gravity feed airbrush. Super easy to clean, disassemble and reassemble.

I shoot cheap acrylics with it but haven't really perfected the mix. They're funny. When you get them thin enough to shoot they can be a little too thin. This is when the double-action helps out.

My compressor is an OLD "Penncrest" (J.C.Penny) diaphragm compressor that looks identical to the Badger compressors built at the same time. So, Badger was doing a private label for Penny's about 50 years ago. Surprised that the compressor still works!

-slim

We're surprised YOU still work hehehehehehe

You're right come to think of it  :P

-slim

bparrish

Randy....

I'll join the fray here............ I use a brush that is as antiquated as me.  A circa 60's Binks Wren gun.  It is a single acting dinosaur but I have learned its' idiosyncrasies so why change?

Given that.........  I tried (borrowed) a vibrator compressor some eons ago and found that it could not keep up. 

With compressors there are issues of both pressure and volume.  Vibrators have trouble with volume.  That shows up as............  It's running.... you key the brush and you hear a significant air sound change within a few seconds.  Even with a regulator they struggle.   There are all sorts of piston / tank compressors out there in various sizes.  I use an old Dayton rattle trap but it has a seven gallon bottle and that is enough stability of pressure and volume to make things work.

Next is pressure.......... That will vary based on what you are blowing through the brush and what your brush seems to like.  It is easy to "over blow" your brush.  That will show up often as a periphery pattern with a hole in the middle.  My Binks fishing sinker likes 16 psi when I am pushing distillate paints.  I am not very practiced with acrylics.  I have found that most acrylics break well with 92% cheap alcohol.  I've not had good luck with plain water as a reducer.  I live in an area where there is NO humidity so another problem is the paint drying before it gets to the model...... thus I have to shoot things rather "wet".

I don't have too much problem with over thinning with distillates but it is easy to tip over on acrylics just to get it to move in my siphon bottles.  It's an excuse to be reminded that multiple coats is better than one oooy gooy one.

Next? ? ? ?

see ya
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

Janbouli

I use a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution  with a Silent 20A compressor.

I love photo's, don't we all.

deemery

I've tried a lot of stuff over the years, including Badger 200, Aztek, Badger 350.  Currently I have 3, a cheapo $50 from eBay (top feed double action), a top feed Iwata Eclipse, and a side feed Iwata.  I have a Silentaire compressor, purchased because it's both quiet and can put out 40 psi.  I also have a relatively quiet spraybooth, so I can spray on the same floor as the TV and not bother the wife.


For paints I've had very good luck so far with the Micromark (Vallejo private label) airbrush-ready acrylics, and the Tru-Color paints (acetone is their solvent.)  I've had a bit less luck thinning regular Vallejo paints.  I really liked spraying Floquil, but that stuff got really stinky even with a spray booth. 


For cleaning acrylics, I dump my hand with the airbrush into a quart yoghurt container of windshield wiper fluid, and hold the trigger down for a minute or so.  Then I run the paint's thinner/airbrush cleaner until I don't see any more color on a paper towel, followed by Iwata/Medea's thinner.  Usually, I'll pull the needle, run some thinner soaked pipe cleaners through the brush and run the needle itself through a piece of fine steel wool (to polish off any paint residue.)   


All that being said, I still think airbrushes are a pain in the ass, even though they're usually worth it.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

ranny9

Quote from: deemery on December 19, 2014, 04:21:48 PM
I've tried a lot of stuff over the years, including Badger 200, Aztek, Badger 350.  Currently I have 3, a cheapo $50 from eBay (top feed double action), a top feed Iwata Eclipse, and a side feed Iwata.  I have a Silentaire compressor, purchased because it's both quiet and can put out 40 psi.  I also have a relatively quiet spraybooth, so I can spray on the same floor as the TV and not bother the wife.


For paints I've had very good luck so far with the Micromark (Vallejo private label) airbrush-ready acrylics, and the Tru-Color paints (acetone is their solvent.)  I've had a bit less luck thinning regular Vallejo paints.  I really liked spraying Floquil, but that stuff got really stinky even with a spray booth. 


For cleaning acrylics, I dump my hand with the airbrush into a quart yoghurt container of windshield wiper fluid, and hold the trigger down for a minute or so.  Then I run the paint's thinner/airbrush cleaner until I don't see any more color on a paper towel, followed by Iwata/Medea's thinner.  Usually, I'll pull the needle, run some thinner soaked pipe cleaners through the brush and run the needle itself through a piece of fine steel wool (to polish off any paint residue.)   


All that being said, I still think airbrushes are a pain in the ass, even though they're usually worth it.


dave

Well said!

rustyfawcett

Over the years of doing art work with all kinds of airbrushing. I have spent $100s on all kinds of them with my favorite  at the time being the iwata eclips. Until found the neo from iwata 1/3 the cost and just as good maybe better.

My air compressor  is a porter cable large comp with a moisture tap and vent. Its set at 30 to 38 psi depending on what i am shooting. I have used iron based pigments for Sophisticated Finishes with great results. Clean everything with soap and water and have a 2nd gun for solvent based paint.

Zephyrus52246

I have an Iwata Eclipse.  The gravity feed is great, if I don't tip the airbrush and make paint spill out  :-\ , it does have a "cap" if I think I'm gonna be spraying wildly. The advantage to the gravity feed is no other bottles/tubes to clean.  I use original Windex (get the gallon jugs) for quick cleaning, and lacquer thinner if things are getting gummed up with the acrylics, which is mostly what I spray.  I thin the Vallejo with their own thinner, Polly with distilled water.  It's very easy to clean.  I have an Iwata compressor which is very quiet.


Jeff





ranny9


Janbouli

#13
To add to my post , I use Vallejo Air straight from the bottle and sometimes Tamiya which I thin with distilled water. I clean with Glassex which is I believe the same product as Windex , but then the dollar store version , cheaper and better.
I love photo's, don't we all.

deemery

I keep distilled water in a 'sport bottle' water bottle, and windshield cleaner in a "recycled" contact lens solution bottle.  Each allow me to add a relatively small amount to the airbrush for thinning or cleaning.  Just make sure you clearly label any recycled/repurposed bottles, particularly those that used to contain potable water, etc.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

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