FOS Bandits Roost

Started by Opa George, October 14, 2019, 08:05:32 PM

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Mark Dalrymple

Looking good, George.

Are you sure you don't want the internal floor within the walls?  It now looks like you will need two steps from the front door to the road - one level with the threshold (or just down a fraction) and one at the same height as the footpath.  I wonder whether these will encroach too much on the forecourt?

Cheers, Mark.

Opa George

Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 25, 2019, 07:49:14 PM
Looking good, George.

Are you sure you don't want the internal floor within the walls?  It now looks like you will need two steps from the front door to the road - one level with the threshold (or just down a fraction) and one at the same height as the footpath.  I wonder whether these will encroach too much on the forecourt?

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Thanks--I'll take a closer look at that before I glue my impromptu foundation on--something to examine.  But I don't think even an extra step will intrude enough to matter. I was planning on a few oil drums or other items outside the door anyway.  Below is Doug's pilot model with something under the structure, although I know the pilot doesn't always match the kit exactly.
--George

Mark Dalrymple

#77
Hmmm.  You see in my opinion that should really have two steps - everyone would trip over the threshold as they went into the shop.  Having said that I have seen them like this, and we are always short on space on our models.  I'm probably guilty of the same myself.

Cheers, Mark.

deemery

The "front side and alley" photo highlights a real discrepancy with this kit.  Why is the one door a foot or 2 higher than the others? 


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Opa George

Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2019, 06:14:55 PM
The "front side and alley" photo highlights a real discrepancy with this kit.  Why is the one door a foot or 2 higher than the others? 

dave

I've been assuming the door on the front is a loading or freight door and the side panel door is the walk-through entrance.  At least that is how I'll present them once in place.  I think it will work.
--George

Opa George

Just a rather boring photo today of the gas station walls primed. I used gray primer outside and black inside.  Also primed in gray are the laser cut windows and the plastic door. Next step will be application of the Durhams Water Putty for stucco. It's a bit of a fussy operation but my last foray into water putty stucco turned out well enough.



--George


Opa George

This evening I applied the Durhams Water Putty mix as stucco.  The rough coat always looks, well, rough.


The other side:


Using a razor knife, I cleaned out the window openings, the door opening, removed a few stray smears and globs and cleaned off the tabs at the top of each wall that fit into the roof.  It is looking much better now. 


After it is totally dry, at least 24 hours, I will sand it and otherwise fool around with the finish to refine how it looks, pre-paint.
--George

Opa George

The gas station stucco has dried overnight to a near rock-hard finish, making sanding down the high spots relatively easy. I used a few cheap disposable nail files along with some 320 grit sandpaper. The nail files helped in defining the edges of the window sills. Below is side one:


And side two.  The smooth areas represent the stucco top layer, and the rough, lightly sanded areas represent the rough exposed masonry where the stucco has crumbled away.


I gave it a coat of Rustoleum camouflage ultra-flat "Camo Sand" from a rattle can. This color will provide the base color for the exposed masonry.


All for now.
--George

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Opa George

Thank you, Curt!  I just added paint to the walls. I sponged on acrylic white to the entire structure except for the concrete gas island, which I painted a light brownish gray.


And the other side.


Then added a red lower half, and a blue stripe, with blue accents on the windowsills. The red was applied with a blue tape mask in place, but when I tried that with the narrow blue stripe it was not good. So the blue stripe is painted freehand.  I'll go back after it dries and dress up the lines a bit more.


Later I will tone down the bright blue with some chalks, selective sanding, etc. The windows and door are lying in the background, sponge painted a matching red.

--George

postalkarl

Hey George:

Looks good and I'm following along.

Karl

Opa George

Thanks and welcome, Karl.
Today I installed the windows and door and added some signs. It is coming along nicely. The roof will be next.


George

Jerry

George nice job on the stucco & paint!


Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Opa George

Thanks, Jerry. It's certainly a work in progress.
Here I added a coat of Hunterline Light Gray overall.  I then wiped over the white areas with a cloth to remove most of the gray cast from the white surface, leaving it to darken the masonry underneath, and to take the brightness from the red and blue.


I will have to do a little bit of touchup on the red and maybe the blue. The stain softened the acrylic just enough that I accidentally removed a touch here and there, exposing the bright white underneath.  I also note the stain darkened the wall thermometer to obscure the face.  Maybe it will be visible when fully dry, but I'm not optimistic. Note for future: apply the tiny detailed paper signs after.

Time to glue the roof in place. I replaced some of the center with a piece of scrap scribed siding, to represent the roof boards underneath. When I apply the roofing paper, I will allow some random spots of wood to show through.


The wood was distressed and then colored with full strength A & I mixture, and some randomly applied Hunterline Driftwood.

George

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

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