While at the GSMTS in Timonium, MD for the first perennial Craftsman Courtyard I procured one of Carolina Craftsman Kits (CCK) Takpma Shops in HO Scale. I saw this kit at the CCK website (https://carolinacraftsmankits.com) prior to the show and really liked it. I saw a built up model of it at the CCK booth at the show and decided I needed to build it. So here I am, back in the saddle again.
Here you have a photo of the box top that displays what the model looks like when built up by a competent modeler.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7058.JPG)
I will attempt (with both hands at the wheel) to achieve something that resembles that.
Stay tuned.
Jaime
I will start off by a brief discussion of a new feature I noticed about the CCK kits, the modelers degree of difficulty:
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7059.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7060.JPG)
I had not noticed that before. That's how removed from building kits I've been for the past couple of years.
I browsed about the CCK booth and noticed the stock kits ranging from two hobby knives to four hobby knives depicting the degree of difficulty.
Takoma Shops ranks four hobby knives. As they say at they contest room, "go big or go home." I will either triumph exceedingly or crash and burn catastrophically. I must ensure there are plenty of bandages in the first kit at home.
Up next.. the box's contents.
Jaime
I'll be following.
Will be taking front row seats following you Jaime, just to put some pressure on you , I expect nothing but the best. ;)
The kit's box is not very large. But don't judge a book by its cover. There is a crap ton of laser cut goodies inside that compact box.
This is what greets the modeler when first opening the box:
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7048.JPG)
That is 4 pages of instructions with full color photos to illustrate how to build the model and 4 pages of bracing templates. That means there are a large bevy of walls to work on to build this cool kit.
After retrieving the instructions from the box one finds countless laser cut wooden walls and bundles of strip wood and custom windows and sidewalks and crisp styrene windows and metal castings and roofing and full color signage and you name it. I'll just show you a sample of all that.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7049.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7050.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7051.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7052.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7053.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7054.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7055.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7056.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7057.JPG)
Well, you get the idea. There is plenty to keep a rusty modeler busy for the next few weeks.
I better start gluing something together before folks start asking why I am not finished with this build yet.....
Up next... A brief glimpse of what CCK expects one of these kits to look like.
Jaime
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 30, 2019, 08:13:13 PMI'll be following.
Thank you !
Quote from: Janbouli on October 30, 2019, 08:13:55 PM
Will be taking front row seats following you Jaime, just to put some pressure on you , I expect nothing but the best. ;)
The best is yet to come.....
Jaime
Here you see Mr. CCK himself, Jeff Grove. He is thinking to himself, "Yes, these are the groovy kits you're looking for."
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_6625.JPG)
And this is what the built up model that CCK had on display at their booth looks like:
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_6605.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_6606.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_6607.JPG)
I have some big shoes to fill.
I need to go find my modeling tools. Honestly, they are packed away in bunches of boxes down in the basement and up in my home office. I may end up buying new stuff all over again before this is over. Anyway, I've started so I had better keep on moving.
It's great to be back here modeling with all you.
Later.
Jaime
Jaime,
Glad to have you back. I'll be following along.
Very interesting kit. Take your time, read the instructions several times, test fit before gluing, you'll be fine.
Great looking kit. I'll be following along.
--George
I'll def be watching, as well, Jamie.
This kit is one of the few that make me want to just build kits I like, instead of trying to build kits for a certain theme, for a diorama.
Jim
Congratulations on starting another build thread Jaime. Jeff is a Jedi Master when you're around his table, I always seem to buy something.
Jaime,
Having seen your work in person, I am confident you will do an excellent job on this kit. After all you are an award winning modeller.
Matt
Hey NRMMRRC:
Nice kit. I will sure be be following along.
Karl
I'll be following along as well. This is a nice looking building and I'm sure you'll do it justice!
Thanks everyone for all the encouraging words.
So I rummaged about and managed to find the essentials to get started. Most important of all are these:
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7061.JPG)
I've reached that point in "maturity" where a little extra help is needed to see teeny tiny items clearly. A brightly lit working area is also highly recommended.
I read the instructions from cover to cover last night. They are direct and to the point. They provide suggestions on weathering and color choices and aid the modeler in the assembly of the kit. Color photos are used to illustrate some of the instructions.
Here you see my rushed collection of tools to get me started.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7062.JPG)
I was very pleased I found my trusty orange and purple hobby knife and my favorite pair of tweezers. It is also nice I found The Monster Nailer. I like using it to place nail holes strategically about.
The instructions first direct the modeler to sort out the paints to be used throughout the build. I have not done that yet. Next, the instructions direct the modeler to distress the laser cut wood walls prior to bracing, staining and painting. Therefore, I will do just that.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7063.JPG)
I found a pair of wire brushes I will use to put some grain on the wood walls.
I recently watched a YouTube video by Jason Jenses on how to weather wood walls. It is a very good tutorial. This is the link to it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHNVmKVGs68
Here is a progress of how I put grain (I scrubbed the walls with the wire brush), add nail holes (with The Monster Nailer), mark separate clapboards (with a dull hobby knife lol) and lift some clapboards on the walls (with the same dull knife).
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7064.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7065.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7066.JPG)
That's The Monster Nailer if you are not familiar with it. I believe it is no longer in production.
I model slowly and sparingly so I'll post the next update when I have something new to share. I plan to brace the walls next and then stain them. I need to go buy some rubbing alcohol and try to find some India ink for that.
Later.
Jaime
Jaime good to see you back at the bench. I'm sure you will do an outstanding job.
I'll be following along for sure.
Jerry
A good start, Jaime. Weathering walls is one of my least favorite parts of a build--but of course well worth the effort.
--George
Great start Jamie. I'm very happy to see you back at it and providing us with a play by play. This is a really interesting looking structure. Should be a fun build for all of us. :)
Jaime,
I'm in as well. Looking forward to your build.
Tom ;D
Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate each of them.
It's been a busy weekend. I'm glad we got an extra hour so I could catch up ;D
I've managed to brace all but a few of the walls in the kit. The instructions provide full size bracing templates so it makes it real easy to get that done.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7067.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7073.JPG)
I like using Titekbond III wood glue for all my builds that include wood pieces. It is a tad spendy but it is worth it.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7068.JPG)
I pool a bit of the glue on a plastic card and use toothpicks to apply the glue to the required parts.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7071.JPG)
I use whatever I have handy to weigh down the glued parts as the glue dries.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7072.JPG)
If you have clamps handy they are also a good choice.
When I finish gluing the parts I set them aside in a separate container to kept track of them and not damage them either.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7081.JPG)
I mentioned earlier I needed to round up all my tools and supplies as they were packed up in boxes. This is what happens when you don't keep track of what you have and where you have it.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7082.JPG)
I have more glue dispensers than I need. I actually had to go buy some glue at Wall-Mart and could only find the Gorilla Glue. That is the only wood glue my Wal-Mart stocked. I had to buy new glue as the Titebond III came out too runny out of the bottle. I suspect it separated from being stored too long. Oh well....
At least I did find my all-time favorite tweezers. I have no clue when or where I bought them. But I have had them for a very very long time. They are made in Italy and have "MM" marked on them. Anyone know anything about these?
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7067.JPG)
So this is where I am. Ready to start painting something before I start assembling the whole affair.
Later.
Jaime
Jaime,
Looks like you are off to a good start. It seems like it is becoming more difficult to simply find good old Elmer's white glue. Did you happen to see Art Fahie's video rant on glue?
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 03, 2019, 08:50:36 PM
Jaime,
Looks like you are off to a good start. It seems like it is becoming more difficult to simply find good old Elmer's white glue. Did you happen to see Art Fahie's video rant on glue?
I did not. Is it at the Bar Mills website?
Jaime
Jaime,
It is on the Bar Mills Facebook page.
I have a similar pair of tweezers Jaime. They're my favorite ones to use also.
Jaime
Great to see you back at the workbench! I will be watching your build - you are off to a great start. It looks like you found all the necessary tools. I sure miss Monster ModelWorks - that nail tool is great.
I will check when I get back to my workbench if my favorite tweezers have the same markings. I think I remember where I bought them. ;)
Nice progress Jaime! Thanks for all the pics. I have the same problem with glue as I do with clamps...way too many choices, with my Titebond separating as well. I believe the MM is a "style" of tweezer.
Available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Each style (or pattern) is designated with a number and/or letter, such as AA, MM, 3C, or 7A. They can have tapered or indented shanks with round or beveled tips and range in size from medium to extra fine tips.
Hey Jaime:
Looking good so far. I'm following along.
Karl
Progress looking good, Jamie.
I had a separation issue with a old bottle of Aleene's glue. managed to shake and mix it enough to get it back to original consistency.
Opa George, I'll make ya a deal, I'll do your kit walls (weathering), if you will paint my castings. LOL
Jim
Quote from: JimF on November 04, 2019, 03:30:30 PM
Progress looking good, Jamie.
I had a separation issue with a old bottle of Aleene's glue. managed to shake and mix it enough to get it back to original consistency.
Opa George, I'll make ya a deal, I'll do your kit walls (weathering), if you will paint my castings. LOL
Jim
Jim--Alright! I am always in for a good old team effort!
--George
Keep the replies coming. I'm enjoying what you all have to say.
I decide to try something different. I decided to prime both sides of the wood walls with spray cans. For the main buildings I want to black out the interiors so I decided to spray the inside of the walls with flat black. For the wall exteriors I thought I'd spray them a grey primer.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7084.JPG)
Yeah... The only grey primer I could find was a tad dark. Oh well, ain't no step for a stepper. A little dab of craft paints here and there and it'll come out alrightish lol.
The instructions direct the modeler to apply a weathering wash of craft paints prior to the final paint color on the exterior walls (unlike the spray painting I did). The instructions do suggest to blacken the interior walls to help minimize light leaks if lighting the structure and to hide the lack of an interior through the windows once assembled.
I think I will go buy some lighter grey spray paint tomorrow. It'll give me an excuse to leave the office for a short while ;D Or, I could rummage through the dozens of boxes of train stuff I have all packed up and try to find a lighter grey spray can and pray it will still spray. I had a hard time getting the ones on the walls above to spray given how cold it is outside and in my basement. I was too lazy to warm up the cans prior to spraying.
More to come as it develops.
Jaime
Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish" ;D
Actually, the dark primer with a lighter paint over top should give you some good pre-weathered effects. Try the FOS sponge technique for peeling paint (dry-brush dab the paint on the walls with the sponge), and see how you like that effect.
dave
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on November 06, 2019, 12:34:46 PM
Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish" ;D
Stick around. Once I start screwing up the build you will learn a whole set of new words ;D
Jaime
Quote from: deemery on November 06, 2019, 01:32:51 PM
Actually, the dark primer with a lighter paint over top should give you some good pre-weathered effects. Try the FOS sponge technique for peeling paint (dry-brush dab the paint on the walls with the sponge), and see how you like that effect.
dave
I've been watching this character on YouTube (Jason Jensen) and he does exactly that. This is why I went with the primer rather than the India ink and alcohol stain. I thought I'd try what Jason does on his videos. He does a lot of For kits on the videos along with CCK kits.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on November 06, 2019, 06:24:57 PM
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on November 06, 2019, 12:34:46 PM
Follow all these posts for new methods and Jaime throws a new word at me - "allrightish" ;D
Stick around. Once I start screwing up the build you will learn a whole set of new words ;D
Jaime
My wife won't teach me those words. "They are much worse in Spanish than in English."
dave
I am back.
I had a pretty good update last night and Comcast decided to have an outage in my area so I was left with no internet service for the evening. So much for that. So instead all I have for now is an alrightish update.
I bought some new grey primer at Wal-Mart. It kills me that at one time Wal-Mart had a killer grey spray can in their house brand for only $0.99. Now all they have is black and white. So I had to buy a name brand for 4 times that much. If your Wal-Mart still has the house brand grey spray can buy all they have. I'll buy a can off you for $0.85.
Here is what I got after I sprayed the rest of the walls with the lighter grey can.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7090.JPG)
And here you can see the difference between the two.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7091.JPG)
Quite the contrast.
I also bought some new 91% alcohol to make me some India ink wash. I always write the date on the bottle when I made the batch and I have begun to write how much India ink I used.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7092.JPG)
I mentioned earlier I have been watching Jason Jensen on the YouTube and his weathering methods. I decided to try the sponge dab method with an added twist of mine. I dab the sponge on full strength paint. I dab the wet sponge on a piece of paper to remove most of the paint. I dab the clapboard wall randomly. I then scrub the sponge in the direction of the grain. The net effect is good coverage of the walls but still leaving some of the bare clapboard unpainted. We all know about dry brushing... So I call my technique, half brushing. It works the same if using a brush.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7093.JPG)
Here is a close up of what it looks like.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7095.JPG)
The effect I was after was a faded somewhat peeled wall. Note how the area under the part of the clapboard that overlaps didn't get any paint. I am not sure how prototypical that is but I like it nonetheless. And that is half brushing for you.
By the way, the corner trim I did wash with the India ink and alcohol stain and then half brushed with cheap white acrylic paint with a cheap brush.
Here is what it looks like after I added some of the India ink wash to the painted wall.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7097.JPG)
Now it is time for me to start gluing pieces together.
Later.
Jaime
Check Jason's YouTube show 08.
He uses a liquid Crackle Finish in from Michaels/craft store to do some amazing aged paint work. If you haven't checked his site, he does a lot of work with CCK kits.
Looks good so far Jaime.
Jerry
Jaime,
That ink wash really brought out the worn look of the siding. Nice job and a good explanation of your sponge "half brushing" technique.
That Jason Jensen is good. Maybe he'll show up at a train show and do a clinic or two.
Sometimes it pays off to take things a tad easy and not rush. Although it is nice to build fast and get more done. Taking things slow often saves my rear end. For example, I began to glue together the little office (one of three buildings in the kit) and when I took a picture of it I realized I had not finished gluing the window and door castings yet. Some do that once the building is put together. Me, I like to do it while the walls are flat (not glued to each other yet).
Here is what I mean.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7098.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7099.JPG)
So I headed down to the basement and spray painted some castings with some of the new grey primer I bought.
I waited some time for the paint to dry.
I began to paint the castings. And that is when things went bad. My cheap acrylic paint has outlived its usefulness. It went on too runny and would not stick to the castings. Then I discovered the grey primer has a very smooth satin finish. Not good in this case. What is wacky is the white acrylic paint did fine on the corner wood trim as you see above.
So, I punted and used white acrylic paint from a Liquitex tube. That did much better.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7103.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7104.JPG)
Notice how the casting on the left is the one painted white. The casting on the bottom right is the once with grey primer. And the casting on the top right is an unpainted one. The grey primer one is shinier than the unpainted casting ;D
While the castings were drying I decided to glue part of the storage shed (the second small building in the kit). This one you have to build stick by stick.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7100.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7101.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7102.JPG)
I have lots of other stuff going this weekend so this is as far I will get for a while.
Leave a note if you feel like it. Hopefully, you too are building something.
Later.
Jaime
Nice work Jamie. I am just finishing the O scale John Allen Engine House. Than maybe a Cedarhill kit. It would be my first one. I look forward to more posting from a great modeler.
ed
Jaime,
I'm my last rattle can of the cheap Walmart primer. Since I knew it was only a matter of time I started searching for an acceptable substitute. I use either Krylon or Rustoleum Camo colors to prime castings. I like the tan or khaki colors. I find they can be sprayed in thin coats, do not obscure details, and dry dead flat so my acrylics stick well as top coats. HTH.
Looking good so far.
Jaime, my old friend,
I will be following your progress on this build with interest.
There has been discussion of glues.
Elmer's has changed the formula for Glue-All which has been my standard for decades and I'm not sure how the new formula works.
Lately I have been using the little applicators shown in the photo.
I dilute Pacer's Canopy Glue a little bit so it will flow nicely through the metal tube.
This is much faster than my old toothpick and puddle of Elmers method.
This also gives a stronger bond.
Jaime,
I buy my applicators at Amazon.
Darryl
Quote from: darrylhuffman on November 10, 2019, 02:12:23 AM
Jaime, my old friend,
I will be following your progress on this build with interest.
There has been discussion of glues.
Elmer's has changed the formula for Glue-All which has been my standard for decades and I'm not sure how the new formula works.
Lately I have been using the little applicators shown in the photo.
I dilute Pacer's Canopy Glue a little bit so it will flow nicely through the metal tube.
This is much faster than my old toothpick and puddle of Elmers method.
This also gives a stronger bond.
Howdy!
I have in the past used the Pacer glue. It does bond well. The one thing I didn't like about it is it reacted with my skin and left my fingers all itchy after a session of modeling. I tend to clean up glue joints with my fingers and have not tired the applicators. I need to give the applicators a whirl.
I did try that Flamingo glue before and it works great. It comes with a built in applicator. However, the Flamingo glue is corrosive and if left to dry on the applicator it causes undesirable effects. Even the makers of the glue suggest to rinse the applicator in water after each use.
Isn't it wacky how there are some man ways to get our hobby tasks accomplished. Makes life interesting.
On a different note relate to my build, it is not good to hoard spray cans of model paints (Testors, Floquil, etc..). They just don't hold up well over the years. Use fresh cans of spray paint.
Jaime
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 09, 2019, 04:07:16 PM
Jaime,
I'm my last rattle can of the cheap Walmart primer. Since I knew it was only a matter of time I started searching for an acceptable substitute. I use either Krylon or Rustoleum Camo colors to prime castings. I like the tan or khaki colors. I find they can be sprayed in thin coats, do not obscure details, and dry dead flat so my acrylics stick well as top coats. HTH.
Looking good so far.
I have tried the Rustoleum camo paints and the competitor's. They are nice. I wish they made a grey shade though. The tan and olive shades definitely dry fast and dead flat. They are a good choice.
Jaime
Quote from: engine909 on November 09, 2019, 04:01:36 PM
Nice work Jamie. I am just finishing the O scale John Allen Engine House. Than maybe a Cedarhill kit. It would be my first one. I look forward to more posting from a great modeler.
ed
The John Allen engine house is undoubtedly one of the most railroady structures out there. I once read an article by Allen himself (I believe it was published in the NMRA Bulletin) about how he built the engine house. I was floored when I found out the engine house was built out of card stock. Yep, the original John Allen engine house is not made out of wood. It is made out of paper. Amazing.
My good friend Bob Piezcyk (may he rest in peace) scratch built an HO version of that engine house. I need to dig through my stash of models as his widow let me keep many of Bob's models. I have several scratch built FSM inspired ones Bob made and they are dead on to the magazine ad photos.
I hope you post your O scale engine house as it is always a treat to view one of them in any scale.
Jaime
Looking great Jaime! Your colors & weathering technique are excellent. I've been using the camo spray colors for a while now on detail parts & love how they dry so flat. I'll have to give it a try on walls.
Walls look great, Jaime. I'm enjoying following along.
With regard to rattle can paints, I have begun using the Rustoleum camo colors whenever I can. Between those and red, black, white and gray primer, I get a fair variety of base colors for castings and walls. I, too, have noticed that spray cans do not age well, so try not to "stock up" too much. One exception I noted is Rustoleum metallic aluminum, which I have had for years and it still works like new. Must have something to do with the pigments.
--George
Jaime,
Rather than use your fingers to clean up glue joints, why not use a cheap brush?
I keep an open bottle of water on my desk.
Run your brush along the joint and drop your brush into the water.
Next time you need it just swirl it around and blot on a paper towel. Then it is ready to absorb some more glue.
You can also run a toothpick along the joint to pick up the excess glue.
I can't imagine building a model with glue on my fingers.
If you get one of the applicators I suggested you can put a micro dot of glue on your wood.
I think if you try one you will love it. It's the only way I ever apply white glue anymore.
They are dirt cheap on Amazon.
Darryl
I use cotton swabs to take away excessive glue , absorbs immediately .
Jaime:
I'm following your build and it looks great sofar.
Karl
Jaime,
I agree, looking good and well done.
Tom ;D
I clean up excessive glue with the toothpick end that I put in my mouth. The none glue end. Some glues you never want to reverse this. The wetness helps. Knife blade for between wooden shingles.
I love these discussions. When Mr. Huffman speaks I pay attention. One sign of how smart I am. There are many signs that indicate the opposite.
ed
Howdy.
I had to make a last minute business trip. It was cheaper for me to drive than to fly. So, I listened to about 12 hours of model train podcasts. Man have I missed a ton of stuff in the last 2.5 years. That'll learn me to stay preoccupied with work instead of trains.
Anyway, thanks for all your comments. I have read them all and have heeded your advice and even ordered some new modeling supplies.
One lesson I learned when I first began to make these build threads was to photograph my progress and pay attention to what I've done. I'm about to show you how that pays off.
I added details to the windows on the little office. Mainly I weather the window castings and add some glazing and windows shades. I have tried many things to simulate window glass and I have arrived at the conclusion that the acetate provided by the kit manufacturer is more than sufficient. I don't like how "glass" turns out when using the canopy glue. I tried the gallery glass and I didn't care for that. I think I even tried white glue once. I have not tried the microscope slides. Regardless, I use the clear acetate in th kit.
I cut the acetate to size and glue it to the inside of the wall so as to cover the window opening. I use any form of white glue (Elmer, canopy, Aileen's, etc.) to affix the acetate to the walls.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7109.JPG)
I then cut out some white typing paper (or a colored sticky note) and cover as much of the window as I want the "window shade" to cover. Be sure to use a straight and true edge at the bottom of the "shade".
I then take some grey chalk/pastel/powder and dirty up the window. I spread the powder around with a soft brush. Go easy on it.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7107.JPG)
And this is what you get.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7108.JPG)
And this is the end result on the structure so far.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7110.JPG)
Did you see what I did there?
...
I glued one of the windows upside down. Furthermore, some of the glue squeeze out turned stringy and dried up.
So I fixed the happy accidents thanks to the photos I made. Maybe I ought to just photograph a built up model and stare at that instead of building them.... Naaahh.
Stay tuned for more.
Jaime
Jaime,
I have been listening to HO Scale Customs podcasts driving to and from work. Better than politics and hate radio.
What did you listen to on your drive?
Darryl
HOn3 from 1975
Darryl,
Been to over 3k concerts. Listen to everything. Going to Charleston Friday to hear a band that Keb Mo (Kevin) turned me on to. The band is Mungion and Magic Beans opens.
Shawn Calvin is playing the same night. Now if I could be at two places at one time.
Soon I will travel to Pelham, Tn.. The Caverns offer a similar vibe to Red Rocks in Colorado. Both spiritual in a real way. The blues singer Keb Mo played at The Caverns Sept.18th.. Was on PBS. November 30th., we will see The Annie Moses Band, six siblings plus a few more not related.
Was just viewing Rod Stewart's 124 model railroad he has at his mansion in LA. Neil Young also has a sweet layout.
ed
Quote from: darrylhuffman on November 12, 2019, 09:15:59 PM
Jaime,
I have been listening to HO Scale Customs podcasts driving to and from work. Better than politics and hate radio.
What did you listen to on your drive?
Darryl
HOn3 from 1975
I listened to the HO Scale Customs podcast. I downloaded enough episodes to last my round trip. Normally I listen to Dave Ramsey every day and every so often I listen to The Accidental Tech Podcast. Years ago I would listen Leo Laporte's The Tech Guy. I used to listen to the Scotty Mason show back in its heyday.
Jaime
Jaime
Taking progress photographs is the way I find all my mistakes. A camera is one of the most important modeling tools. Especially when you have to wear old man glasses like I do. I can zoom in and look at the finest detail.
On a another note reading through the posts you can add Phil Collins to the list of singers that has a model railroad on a millionaires budget. He said his goal was to have a bigger layout than Rod's. I have never seen pictures published.
Your build is coming along great - really good to see you back at your workbench.
I listen to books on tape on my long drives. Okay so I'm showing my age - I download books onto my iPad and bluetooth them to my radio.
John Siekirk
S&S RR
Jaime,
Leo Laporte is still one of my favorites. TWIT.TV is great.
His shows are getting more political than tech, however.
I give copies of Dave Ramsey's books to anyone I know who is having financial problems.
I think maybe you and I have a lot in common.
Darryl Huffman
Jamie,
I've never glued a window in upside down. Believe that one and I have a bridge I want to sell you. :P ;) Heck, I've even glued walls in upside down. :o
Looking wonderful! Keep up the great work!
Coming along great, Jamie.
Pictures of one's work definitely help, as long as one remembers to take some in the 1st place LOL
Not sure why, but I have never been able to get into talk radio, books on tape or audio books, or podcasts. Either don't hold my attention deeply enough, or I hear something that makes me think of something else, and I lose the thread of what I was listening to in the first place.
Jim
My day would be quite boring if I didn't listen to podcasts. Some listen to music, I listen to people yak on about stuff that keeps me interested.
I began to shingle the roof on the little office. The kit includes some groovy laser cut shingles. They are nice and crisp. The paper stock is thick enough to give the shingles body but thin enough to keep things to scale.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7115.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7116.JPG)
I start off by cutting the "margin" off the sheet of singles and gluing that at the bottom edge of the roof to give some backing to the first course of shingles. You don't have to do that. I do.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7117.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7118.JPG)
You can use any type of glue to secure the shingles on the roof. I like to use something that gives me time to play with the course of shingles. I make mistakes so I need help along the way.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7119.JPG)
I added some guide lines to the roof card. You don't have to do this. I do because I make mistakes and I need all the help I can get. The lines are not compulsory. They are guides. It helps to keep things straight.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7120.JPG)
When I glue each course I cut it a tad longer than the width of the roof. It gives me a chance to line up the shingles and I come back later and trim the excess once the glue is dry.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7121.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7122.JPG)
That is where I am at the moment. Once the roof is shingled I need to add weathering and determine if I want to add a chimney or smoke stack or vent or what-have-you. The kit art work depicts the little office with a chimney right in the middle of the office. I haven't decided if that is what I want to do. I have plenty of time to make up my mind.
Thanks for all the comments. Do you know if anyone else has built this kit? I'm curious what others have done with it.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Moving right along...
Don't you have it when you miscalculate !
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7126.JPG)
Oh well. I'lll improvise.
So I need to prepare the ridge cap for the roof on this little building. I learned this trick from a post on some other forum out on the inter webs a long time ago. All you need is an envelope you don't plan to use. We get lots of junk mail and bills at home. Each piece of that mail has at least one envelope and that yields a nice crisp creased edge. All you need to do is slice the folded edge off the envelope and you have a nicely folded ridge cap. If you need a ridge cap 1/2 inch wide, you mark your envelope 1/4 inch from the edge all along the edge and slice off that much off the envelope.
The envelope.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7127.JPG)
The marked edge along the bottom of the envelope.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7128.JPG)
The sliced edge off the envelope.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7129.JPG)
Unfold the slice and voila! you have a ridge cap.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7130.JPG)
Fit it on your roof. But, glue it only when you have the roof in place or else you may not be able to fold the creased roof like you need it. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Only glue the ridge cap when your roof is securely in place.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7131.JPG)
And here is where I am so far.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7133.JPG)
My back yard is replete with fallen leaves. I need to get on that this weekend and then its toy train time.
Later and enjoy the weekend.
Jaime
Nice tip with the envelope.
I trim my shingles with scissors.
Amazing how many things we can use.
I buy business cards by the hundred and use them for mixing small amounts of paint, epoxy and even use them for "masking" instead of masking tape.
Toothpicks are among my favorite tools.
Darryl Huffman
Quote from: darrylhuffman on November 15, 2019, 07:42:34 PM
Nice tip with the envelope.
I trim my shingles with scissors.
Amazing how many things we can use.
I buy business cards by the hundred and use them for mixing small amounts of paint, epoxy and even use them for "masking" instead of masking tape.
Toothpicks are among my favorite tools.
Darryl Huffman
My friend Bob, who turned me onto FSM kits log ago, used business cards to make random stonework. He would cut up business cards into small bits and arranged the small bits so as to simulate stone walls.
We often forget we can use scissors in this hobby. I have a tiny pair of scissors somewhere in my tool box. I usually just grab whatever is nearby to get the job done.
Jaime
Jaime:
The roof looks great. I like the shingles. Did they come with the kit?
Karl
Envelope as a roof cap, genius!
The roof with those shingles really looks good! Nice job on that. Can't wait to see it weathered.
--George
Quote from: postalkarl on November 16, 2019, 09:05:27 AM
Jaime:
The roof looks great. I like the shingles. Did they come with the kit?
Karl
The shingles came included in the kit.
Thank you.
Jaime
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on November 16, 2019, 12:12:39 PM
Envelope as a roof cap, genius!
Give it a try. You'll be looking forward to junk mail day at your home from now on.
Jaime
Quote from: Opa George on November 16, 2019, 05:38:29 PM
The roof with those shingles really looks good! Nice job on that. Can't wait to see it weathered.
--George
Thank you. I too am looking forward to seeing it weathered ;D
Jaime
Very nice Jamie.
Time flies when you are having fun. I managed to get in a bit of modeling. I have completed enough of the little office to deem it "done" for now. Here is what took place.
I glued the roof on the structure. I added some left over bits of bracing to give the whole thing some more surface area to grab unto. I basically glued little bits between the walls and the underside of the roof.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7134.JPG)
I then proceeded to glue the ridge cap I made from the envelope crease.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7135.JPG)
I decided not to put the little chimney in the middle of the roof as the kit's art work depicts. Instead I decided to add a smoke stack on the back of the structure. So I made me a smoke jack with the left over bits of the window casting sprues.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7136.JPG)
I painted the smoke jack a weathered grey by mixing black and grey acrylic paints.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7137.JPG)
I used the pointy end of my Monster Nailer to poke a hole in the roof.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7138.JPG)
I then enlarged the hole by twisting the pointy end of my tweezers until I had a hole large enough for the job.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7139.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7140.JPG)
I took some leftover painted bits of the ridge cap which I painted with the same weathered grey (except I failed to photograph that part) and fashioned a cap/flasing to go where the smoke jack protrudes the roof.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7141.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7142.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7143.JPG)
I took some Aileen's tacky glue and mixed it with the weathered grey to make some tar/pitch to glue in the smoke jack.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7144.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7145.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7146.JPG)
I used some pastel chalks to weather the roof. I first applied some black, then some grey and finally some rust pastel chalks on the roof. I then dry bushed with white and attempted to make some bird droppings. I plan to use the little bird castings I picked up at the Crafstman Courtyard to go on the roof once I get further along.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7147.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7148.JPG)
I still need practice with the dry brushing.
More to come as it develops.
Jaime
Really cool, Jamie. I think the smoke jack suits the bldg size better than a chimney would.
Yeah, my drybrushing still needs lots of practice, as well.
Jim
Thanks for all the feedback.
Continuing on...
I decided to start on the little supply shed shown in the back of the pilot diorama for the kit. It's pretty straight forward so I'll only point anything different from before.
The little supply shed has a tar paper roof instead of shingles. The kit provides a sheet of paper used to simulate the tar paper. The sheet is already ruled so it is easy to cut out the required strips of tar paper.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7150.JPG)
I drew some guide lines on the roof card to help me line up things in a straight line. The roof card is already scored by the laser engraver so it is easy to crease the roof we're required.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7151.JPG)
After I glued the strips of tar paper I spray painted the whole affair with a cheap can of flat black. I made sure to stagger the seams of the tar paper to make things a tad interesting.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7152.JPG)
I weathered the roof with some grey and rust colored pastel chalks.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7153.JPG)
I learned a trick way back when I built my first South River Modelworks kit (https://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7744). If you take a razor blade angled real sharp against the roof and scrape along the length of the tar paper after it has been painted, you get a glossy brittle look to the tar paper. I did that here as well.
And this is where I am at the moment.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7154.JPG)
More to come as it develops....
Jaime
I finished the little supply shed. I did not add the front frame to it yet even though I have it built. I need to first figure out how to locate all the buildings on the diorama before I get to that part.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7164.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7165.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7167.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7168.JPG)
That's 2 out of three buildings done ;D
That last building is going to cause me to earn that 4 hobby knife rating. So far I have not touched my "oh crap!" quota on this build. That is encouraging.
Thanksgiving week is upon us. I hope to find some time somewhere in there to get some modeling done.
Jaime
Jaime, good looking shed and office. The big buildings get all the glamour shots, but its the small buildings that add character to a scene. These are both really nice.
--George
Hey Jaime:
I've almost bought this kit a train shows several times. I may just have to get one. You are doing a beautiful job with it.
karl
Jaime that is coming along nicely. Great job with the tar paper.
Jerry
Looking good my friend!
Howdy, gang.
I am out for the Thanksgiving holiday so the build is on hold for now. But, I have been reading all the feedback and appreciate it.
Later.
Jaime
Hey Jaime:
Have fun and Happy Thanksgiving.
Karl
Thank you for the well wishes.
I managed to get in a little bit of time at the workbench over the holiday. Mainly finishing the walls of the main building. I've been gluing in windows and cutting out signs.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7442.JPG)
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime
Looking good, you are making progress.
Moving along.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Some of the windows and doors for this kit are assembled from peel-and-stick laserboard and cardstock. I've only ever done this once before and I had so-so results. The stuff is very delicate and it is tricky to get the peel-and-stick backing off the pieces. Furthermore, the "castings" don't key into the holes so one has to be very careful to align everything properly. However, the results are nice and one ends up with unique windows. I think that is what I liked best about this kit, the windows and doors are unique.
Anyway, here is how some of that went.
Arched windows.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7443.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7444.JPG)
And here is a look from the back. Notice how there is no surface area to stick these onto so alignment here is critical.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7445.JPG)
Here is where I ran into some trouble. The laserboard does not take spray paint very well. Any suggestions?
Regardless, this is cool how one layers the doors and windows on the storefront.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7446.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7447.JPG)
I now have to glue the glazing to the back of the windows and doors. That should be pretty easy given I won't need glue but I will need to cut the glazing to size. Perhaps I should have done the glazing in advance ... oh well.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime,
For painting those peel-and-stick windows and doors, I get good results by priming first with Rustoleum multi-surface spray paint primer (I usually use gray).
--George
Hey Jaime:
Your build is looking just great as usual.
Karl
Quote from: Opa George on December 04, 2019, 07:15:55 AM
Jaime,
For painting those peel-and-stick windows and doors, I get good results by priming first with Rustoleum multi-surface spray paint primer (I usually use gray).
--George
Thanks for the tip! I will have to go buy some of that.
Jaime
Quote from: postalkarl on December 04, 2019, 10:37:36 AM
Hey Jaime:
Your build is looking just great as usual.
Karl
Thank you. I'm slowly chipping away at it.
Jaime
What's happening ?!
Ovwe the last week I have been repairing my laptop. During the Thanksgiving holiday the hard drive where I store my photos crapped out. I guess 7 years or so is not too shabby for the drive. I did have a backup so once I procured a newer, faster and more reliable drive I was able to roll along.
So I will try tot catch up as best I can.
For now I will show how I managed to apply the provided signs to the buildings. There are many ways to do this. Honestly, try whatever works for you and stick with it. Here is what I did.
I cut out the individual signs from the provided sign sheet.
I "dunked" the sign into a pool of full strength white glue. The goal is to coat the back of the sign with a thin layer of white glue.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7468.JPG)
I lifted the sign out of the pool of glue and lined it up with a clapboard on the building wall.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7469.JPG)
With the blunt end of my tweezers I burnished the sign onto the clapboard wall. Some white glue will squeeze out. Try to remove it carefully.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7470.JPG)
This is what I ended up with.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7471.JPG)
I dry brushed some of the color I used on the wall onto the sign. I did only enough to blend the sign in with the wall.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7472.JPG)
And this is what I ended with up when done.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7473.jpg)
Now I have to finish gluing up the walls of the main building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7474.jpg)
It's kinda tricky this main building. The wood walls are not the full height og the building. There are other walls that get stuccoed and then glued to the wood walls. I'll show that once I am caught.
Later.
Jaime
Hey Jaime:
Just went through the whole thread again for fun. It's looking just great. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
I'm putting all the walls together and my wife says, "It's starting to look like a building."....
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7476.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7486.JPG)
I need to work on the stucco walls for the main building. I'm waiting for the spray paint to dry.
Somehow I've jumped around all over the place on this kit. I have not been following the instructions in order. There is guidance on how to do the stucco walls. I am lousy at stucco so I will stick to the instructions for that part.
Later.
Jaime
Jaime:
I use Liquitex Ceramic Stucco. I apply it to the wall with a brush and go back and forth between it and water. Here's A picticur of on of my walls on FSM Houligans alley. Your build is looking just great.
Hope this helps you.
Karl
Jaime:
Here's a photo of the Licquitex Stucco. You can get it at your craft store.
Karl
That's some pretty cool stuff there , Karl. Liquitex stucco. Very nice. Thanks for the tip.
The instructions for this kit say to use Rustoleum Multicolor Textured spray paint "Caribbean Sand". I bought mine at Walmart. That is what I am using. Here is a sample of what it looks like 90 minutes after it's sprayed on a taskboard wall included in the kit.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7487.JPG)
On the right is the cap of the spray can. In the middle is the wall I spray painted. On the left is the label on the can. This is a photo fo the can.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41RSfwmzAoL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg)
Later.
Jaime
I enjoy seeing different applications of various stucco textures. Having built two FOS kits that recommend using Durham's Water Putty, I am looking for an alternative. I like Durhams for many things, but modeling stucco with it takes a lot of practice and skill.
George
Hey Jaime:
That stuff looks pretty nice also. I would just love to see it painted. I think I will go to the hardware store and get A can.
Karl
I've gone to the spray for stucco exclusively. It's quick, easy, neat, and sands nicely. From my experience you might consider the following:
1) Shake extremely well and shake frequently during application. The "grit" texture separates quickly from the carrier/solvent, resulting in runs.
2) To further avoid runs, consider keeping the wall flat during spraying. If already assembled, place the building on its side and do one wall at a time.
Thanks for the feedback on the stucco applications.
I've used the water putty when I built FSM's George Bailey Produce. It tried my patience for sure.
I am mocking up the walls for the main building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7492.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7493.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7494.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7495.JPG)
More as it develops.
Jaime
Looking good Jamie.
Really liking the build and the pace you've set.
Keep at it. There's Timonium II coming up the end of January.
Jaime that a fine looking building. Your really doing a great job.
Nice coloring and the windows and trim very nicely done.
Jerry
Hey Jaime:
That is really coming out beautifully. Love the colors you are using. Keep the photos coming.
Could you send me the post the stock number of the Rustoleum paint you used for the stucco as I want to give it A try.
Karl
Nice progress. That's an impressively-sized structure.
George
Quote from: postalkarl on December 14, 2019, 07:46:35 AM
Hey Jaime:
That is really coming out beautifully. Love the colors you are using. Keep the photos coming.
Could you send me the post the stock number of the Rustoleum paint you used for the stucco as I want to give it A try.
Karl
I think I saw "239121 Caribbean Sand" in Jaime's photo below.
BTW, excellent work and tight paintjob!
Quote from: postalkarl on December 14, 2019, 07:46:35 AM
Hey Jaime:
That is really coming out beautifully. Love the colors you are using. Keep the photos coming.
Could you send me the post the stock number of the Rustoleum paint you used for the stucco as I want to give it A try.
Karl
Rustoleum paint is # 239121 Caribbean Sand. I found it ay my local Walmart. It is also available from Amazon.
Walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-White-Stops-Rust-Multicolor-Textured-Spray-Paint-12-oz/17011113
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-239121-Multi-Color-Textured-Caribbean/dp/B001G3HKIK?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001G3HKIK
Jaime
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 14, 2019, 12:01:47 PM
Quote from: postalkarl on December 14, 2019, 07:46:35 AM
Hey Jaime:
That is really coming out beautifully. Love the colors you are using. Keep the photos coming.
Could you send me the post the stock number of the Rustoleum paint you used for the stucco as I want to give it A try.
Karl
I think I saw "239121 Caribbean Sand" in Jaime's photo below.
BTW, excellent work and tight paintjob!
Good eyes there!
Jaime
Quote from: Opa George on December 14, 2019, 11:33:59 AM
Nice progress. That's an impressively-sized structure.
George
It is that. Would make a nice foreground feature in anyone's layout.
Jaime
Making progress. It helps I didn't have yard chores this weekend. I put on some Christmas music and kept ion gluing stuff.
I finished the stucco base all around the building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7498.JPG)
I added the wrap-around balcony floor on the second floor and finished the store fronts.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7501.JPG)
The main building's base came with the kit. It is a cool laser engraved mat board. CCK even engraved in some sidewalk cracks.
Next I need to start on the roofs. This part goes slow for me. I had hoped to have gotten my micro applicators that Darryl suggested earlier. However, I had my shipment delivered to the office and I have been out for the last couple of days. So I got started but it really is going slow...
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7497.JPG)
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime,
So far it all looks great. This is a LARGE building.
I come from a small town of 800 people out in the desert in California. Only the local "hotel" (rooming house) and a couple of rich people had two story structures. Everything else was one story and even they were very small.
I look forward to your progress.
Have fun and don't get in a hurry.
Oh, by the way, I tried your envelope edge roof cap idea last night and it worked well. Now I look forward to junk mail.
Thanks, my friend,
Darryl
Jaime
It's looking great! Sure is good to see you at the workbench, again.
Jaime,
Coming along nicely, good job all the way.
Tom ;D
That looks great, Jaime. I find applying shingles is slow work, but well worth the time spent.
George
Thanks for all the feedback so far.
I hate CA glue. H A T E it !!!!
I made a somewhat considerable blunder. I painted all the castings for the posts and railings on the balcony ahead of time. Big mistake. I have to assemble all that now. Getting styrene castings to glue together after they have been painted is no fun. If I use plastic cement it won't hold unless I scrape off the paint. If I use CA glue it attacks the paint. I could have used Ailenes or Canopy Glue but that doesn't always yield a tight fit in this case.
So I ended up using CA glue. Let's just say if I had to do this over, I would have assembled the posts and railings before painting all that. I decided to move on and live with the consequences.
Here is what I did.
I began by gluing the main corner post first. After its was all over said and done, I wish I had built all these off the balcony rather than on. Anyway, here is how it went. I'll let the photos do the talking.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7511.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7512.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7513.JPG)
So I basically lined up the posts along the balcony and cut and fit the railings in between. I decided to continue gluing the stuff on a piece of glass I lay on my workbench rather than on the balcony.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7514.JPG)
I then built a "jig" of sorts to mark where the posts were located and used that to glue it all on the glass.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7516.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7517.JPG)
I couldn't find my building squares so I made some from extra matboard I had handy.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7519.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7520.JPG)
I decided to hunt deeper in my stash of train stuff and eventually found more of my "real" tools.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7522.JPG)
I made sure it was all going to come out ok before gluing the assemblies to the balcony.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7523.JPG)
And here is where I am at the moment.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7569.JPG)
It needs some tweaking but that will have to wait for when I glue on the roofs.
I hate CA glue because no matter how careful I am, I always end up getting it where it does not belong.
Back to the workbench.
Jaime
Jaime,
I read somewhere that this hobby requires the patience of a saint. Even with your issues with the glue, pre-painted posts, etc., railings came together well.
Jaime,
Still a fantastic looking build, despite you trials and tribulations.
Will you be doing any sort of diorama based on this build?
Jim
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 17, 2019, 09:37:54 PM
Jaime,
I read somewhere that this hobby requires the patience of a saint. Even with your issues with the glue, pre-painted posts, etc., railings came together well.
Indeed ....
I hope Saint Nicholas pays me a visit next week ;D
Jaime
Jaime,
Meant to ask, did the kit come with the printed interiors for the shops, or are they something you came up with?
Jim
Great modeling.
Hey Jaime:
That model is coming along very nicely. I really like the colors you chose. May I make A suggestion on assembling your roofs. I have not used glue in years. I use 3M #4659007063 double faced adhesive tape. I will cut you time in half and no glue oozing out. I also use it for gluing my signs to walls. It's great no messy spreading of glue. You will also probably find other uses for it also. Your hardware store can probably get it for you. Let me know what you think.
Karl
Jaime,
Nice build and kit. I agree with Karl, NO GLUE. Double sided tape is one way and I personally like using Elmer's Glue sticks. Unlike the double sided tape, the glue stick lets you move it prior to the glue setting.
Tom ;D
Really looking great Jaime. Thanks for all of the progress photos.
Quote from: JimF on December 18, 2019, 08:14:57 AM
Jaime,
Meant to ask, did the kit come with the printed interiors for the shops, or are they something you came up with?
Jim
I kept trying to answer but I got the database error every time.
I found the interiors out on the internet.
I have not decided if I will make a diorama.
Jaime
Quote from: postalkarl on December 18, 2019, 02:27:15 PM
Hey Jaime:
That model is coming along very nicely. I really like the colors you chose. May I make A suggestion on assembling your roofs. I have not used glue in years. I use 3M #4659007063 double faced adhesive tape. I will cut you time in half and no glue oozing out. I also use it for gluing my signs to walls. It's great no messy spreading of glue. You will also probably find other uses for it also. Your hardware store can probably get it for you. Let me know what you think.
Karl
thanks, Karl.
I've used the 3M transfer tape before. I am not very precise so I need some time to line up everything. with the 3M transfer tape you only get one chance to put stuff down right. so I only use the 3M transfer tape when I can fix any misalignments without to much difficulty. but yeah, that 3M transfer tape is pretty neat stuff.
Jaime
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 18, 2019, 03:28:21 PM
Jaime,
Nice build and kit. I agree with Karl, NO GLUE. Double sided tape is one way and I personally like using Elmer's Glue sticks. Unlike the double sided tape, the glue stick lets you move it prior to the glue setting.
Tom ;D
thanks, Tom.
I've used the glue stick before and it is really handy. I only recently found the one stick I purchased a while back. So it is likely I'll use it for other purposes.
Jaime
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 18, 2019, 09:00:52 AM
Great modeling.
Thank you!
The kit's design is what attracted me to it. CCK does a great job with kit designs,
Jaime
Quote from: MAP on December 18, 2019, 05:24:12 PM
Really looking great Jaime. Thanks for all of the progress photos.
You got it!
The photos help me remember what I've done and check out if I've made mistakes.
Jaime
Sometimes you have to cheat to get ahead.
I find it difficult to glue all this stuff together a lot of the time. Mostly it is due to the lack of surface area on the tiny parts that make up these kits. So, wherever I can, I cheat.
In this example I will show how I add cleats to the inner walls and the provided base of the main building. This allows me to "key" the building to its base and provides extra surface area when it is time to glue the building permanently on its base. I need to key the building to its base so it rests in the same spot each time I remove it and replace it as I am working on the thing.
Here is what I did on this kit.
I added cleats to the inner walls of the main building (square strip wood).
I placed the building on its base.
I traced the spot where the cleats glued to the inner walls meet the base.
I glued a cleat to the base right where the inner wall cleat meets the base.
I key the building to the base in the only way it fits once all the cleats have a mate.
Here are the visuals.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7502.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7503.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7504.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7505.JPG)
I also do it for the roofs. I glue square strip wood so the roof keys into the building. That way the roof overhang is the same each time I remove and replace the roof as I work on the building. Once the roof is ready to go on permanently, it can only fit in one way on the building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7574.JPG)
Give it a try.
Jaime
I'm not quite ready to start scenery but when I am, this is where it'll go.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7597.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7598.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7599.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7600.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7601.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7602.JPG)
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime's use of 'cleats' reminds me: I suggested to Tim Warris that he add "bracing packs" to his product line, 25 1/8 x 1/8, 8 1/8 x 3/16, 7 1/4 x 1/4 Those are the sizes that I use most frequently for bracing, etc.
If you think that's a useful idea, let Tim know.
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 20, 2019, 07:08:07 PM
Jaime's use of 'cleats' reminds me: I suggested to Tim Warris that he add "bracing packs" to his product line, 25 1/8 x 1/8, 8 1/8 x 3/16, 7 1/4 x 1/4 Those are the sizes that I use most frequently for bracing, etc.
If you think that's a useful idea, let Tim know.
dave
+1
Jaime
Quote from: deemery on December 20, 2019, 07:08:07 PM
Jaime's use of 'cleats' reminds me: I suggested to Tim Warris that he add "bracing packs" to his product line, 25 1/8 x 1/8, 8 1/8 x 3/16, 7 1/4 x 1/4 Those are the sizes that I use most frequently for bracing, etc.
If you think that's a useful idea, let Tim know.
dave
Maybe he heard you. You can by x/x or fractional sizes either prepackaged or in bulk. Buying in bulk is definitely cheaper.
And Jamie, great build.
thanks for all the feedback. it makes the build more fun.
so just to show that I am not a glue snob, here are some photos of me using a glue stick for one roof card and transfer tape for a second roof card.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7575.jpg)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7576.jpg)
transfer tape is almost like CA glue to me. i manage to get it where it ought not go....
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7577.jpg)
your mileage may vary, etc...
Jaime
Ha Ha! Yeah, transfer tape can be like walking into a spider-web sometimes. You almost can never get it all off..
Jaime,
Is that just foamcore board the structures are sitting on, with the road and tracks sketched in?
Also, for anyone else like me who did not recognize the name, Tim Warris is the owner of Fast Tracks (handlaidtrack.com)
Jim
Quote from: JimF on December 21, 2019, 08:11:31 AM
Jaime,
Is that just foamcore board the structures are sitting on, with the road and tracks sketched in?
Also, for anyone else like me who did not recognize the name, Tim Warris is the owner of Fast Tracks (handlaidtrack.com)
Jim
Jim,
That is Gatorfoam the structures are resting on and indeed I sketched with pencil the boundaries of the business plot, the road and the railroad right of way. I likely will trim the size of the diorama to make it easier to manage it as I continue to build. As you can see it takes up a lot of real estate and almost all of my workbench.
I buy my Gatorfoam from Gatorfoam/board Dave at https://www.gatorfoam.net (https://www.gatorfoam.net).
It's good to know Tim Warris is the owner of Fast Tracks. I have used one of their jigs for making straight track and it works fantastic.
Jaime
I've been taking time to sort through my stash of model train stuff the last couple of weeks. I'm fining all kinds of stuff I had forgotten I had.
I found a set of HO scale unpainted figures. I cannot recall where I bought them and who the manufacturer is. They came in a plastic bag with the number 83911. There are about 50 or so figures in the bag.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_E7604.JPG)
Anyone recognize these? There are also seated figures included in the set. For now I only need standing figures.
Along with these I found a can of my all-time favorite cheap Walmart grey spray primer. It still works. I think they discontinued the cheap grey primer around two to three years ago. It is a real shame as it is really nice and was only $0.99. So, I used the cheap Walmart grey spray primer to prime the figures above.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7614.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7615.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7616.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7618.JPG)
If your Walmart still has some stock of this spray grey primer, buy it all!!! I wish I had bought more while they were still available.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime , they are from Preiser , I found them painted , they must have ( had ) an unpainted set as well.
(https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/article_data/images/75/49039_c.jpg)
Now that I see them a bit larger I'm not sure , but some of them really look like the ones you have.
Quote from: Janbouli on December 22, 2019, 05:14:55 AM
Now that I see them a bit larger I'm not sure , but some of them really look like the ones you have.
Thanks!!!!
I believe mine match some of the ones in the set you posted. I'll keep the color photo as a reference.
I wonder how much they pay the folks that paint all those figures at the Preiser factory....
Jaime
Have you all noticed how HO figures never have on plaid or checkered or paisley or polka-dot clothing on........
Jaime
I added some beefy handrails to the stairs found on the front of the main building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7619.JPG)
It's time to start getting the diorama base ready. So I decided to go ahead and glue in some flex track. First I painted it with the cheap grey primer from Walmart. I recently learned about UHU glue. It is supposed to glue anything to anything. We will see how that goes.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7620.JPG)
This UHU glue is clear and dries clear. It is gooey. It is stringy. It smells bad. It flows easily though.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7621.JPG)
Surprisingly, this UHU glue grabs on fairly quick. Nevertheless, I weighed the track down overnight to make sure.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7622.JPG)
"Danger. May cause drowsiness or dizziness. If medical advice is needed, have product container or label at hand. Keep out of reach of children. Avoid breathing vapours. Dispose of contents/container in accordance with national regulations. Contains methyl acetate."
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7623.JPG)
This UHU glue is made in Germany. I bought it from Amazon. It is kind of like Walthers Goo except it is clear and flows easier. If you have ever used Beacon 3-in-1 glue it is a lot like that. Anyway, it did the trick and now I have one more glue choice (white glue, canopy glue, wood glue, Aileen's, CA, transfer tape, glue stick, etc....).
Once the track was secure I nipped off the extra bits with rail nippers.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7624.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7625.JPG)
More as it develops.
Jaime
Nice progress Jaime. Your doing a great job on this.
Jerry
Jaime,
If UHU glues anything to anything, how do you get the cap off?
Quote from: darrylhuffman on December 23, 2019, 07:51:44 AM
Jaime,
If UHU glues anything to anything, how do you get the cap off?
German engineering...
Jaime
In the past I have used DAP Crackshot to put down a road surface on my dioramas. It dries smooth and without cracks. It is much easier to work with than water putty. This is what the product's container looks like:
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/070798123748.jpg)
I went to my local Lowes to find some and they don't carry it there. So instead I went with the regular pink spacklling. We will see how that turns out.
I made a road foundation out of an old "FOR SALE" plastic sign.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7626.JPG)
I applied the pink spackling.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7628.JPG)
I used a damp foam brush to smooth out the surface.
I let it dry overnight to make sure it is ready for sanding.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7632.JPG)
It needs another coat.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7633.JPG)
Rinse and repeat....
More as it develops.
Jaime
A second coat did the trick.
I sanded it all with some 100 grit sandpaper.
Here is how it turned out.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7639.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7640.JPG)
I wanted to try this "Pavement" paint from Apple Barrel I picked up for 50 cents at Walmart.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7641.JPG)
On the photo above you see two blobs on the right. Those are "Pavement" straight from the bottle. The one in the foreground was applied with a sponge and the one in the background was applied with a brush. In the background are blobs of "Pavement" mixed with "Granite Gray". If you want to model asphalt then the pavement is a great choice. If you wish to model pavement then the "Pavement" mixed with Granite Gray (or some other light gray) is a very good choice. Your mileage may vary.
More as it develops.
Jaime
I always appreciate well-documented experimental model railroading!
And next time you buy paints, look for the color called "Asphaltum" - it's a great color for "scale black" on wood.
dave
I second Dave's note. I'm getting ready to put down some roadway and am interested in this technique. Nice surface with the spackle, by the way.
--George
Jason Jenson on his YouTube build of his lift bridge uses a product from AK, sold on FOS website that very realistically creates asphalt.
You might want to check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wuRuCcUdpk
The AK stuff is nice, but much pricier the what Jaime and Dave suggest, not sure results are all that much better. Even Woodland Scenics Top coat in concrete and asphalt work very well.
Jim
Quote from: JimF on December 26, 2019, 03:13:58 PM
The AK stuff is nice, but much pricier the what Jaime and Dave suggest, not sure results are all that much better. Even Woodland Scenics Top coat in concrete and asphalt work very well.
Jim
You want a Kia, you buy a Kia.
You want a Bentley, you buy a Bentley.
In the end, you get what you pay for.
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm always willing to try new stuff. I try to stay away from really pricey stuff because some of those items don't scale up to the size of scenery area model railroaders build. For a budget conscious modeler the techniques taught by Dave Frary and Joey Ricard are quite effective.
I think it's time the manufactures that focus on military modeling begin to market to model railroaders.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 28, 2019, 07:31:01 AM
...
I think it's time the manufactures that focus on military modeling begin to market to model railroaders.
I really wish Vallejo would take on the old Floquil color set. But I wonder if they have an agreement with someone (MicroMark) that would preclude that...
dave
I do miss Floquil paints for the way they could cover in one coat, even when brushed.
But to be honest, not sure I want to go back to my hobby room smelling like Floquil and Dio-Sol all the time, and having the scent waft out into rest of house. And I KNOW SWMBO would take exception to it LOL
Jim
Been following along...really looking good!
Moving right along....
We've had company over for the Christmas holiday and I've not been able to spend as much time as I'd like on this build. However, I did get started on weathering the track. I need to procure some ballast as what I have on hand is not what I want to use. I will need to make a hobby shop run. My local hobby shop has really grown in the past couple of years and they now occupy the building an old medium size grocery store used to house. The train department at the shop is like 1/4 the size of the entire shop. The owner has tons of wargaming and RC and slot cars. Fortunately, he still keeps a great selection of paints and scenery from Woodland Scenics.
Anyway.....
I didn't want to use Floquil Rail Brown for the the track so instead I went with "Melted Chocolate" from Apple Barrel. I was at Walmart and they had the Apple Barrel paints 2 for $1.00. I mean, how can you go wrong with that!?
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7675.JPG)
I painted a few random ties with the Melted Chocolate to add some variety. I need to weather the ties and put down some ballast after my hobby shop run.
Here is what I have left to do before I can mark this one as "done" in my book:
- finish the roof over the main building's balcony
- pour on some ground on the diorama base (I need to find my bag of Sculptamold) and add some ground cover
- glue down all the buildings to the diorama base
- finish weathering the road in front of the diorama
- finish weathering the track
- add some people and a vehicle or two
- add a few detail castings
I don't want to go overboard with this one. My goal was to build the kit, I'm like 95% done with that. The diorama has been a bonus and I don't want to get bogged down with it while the 2020 build challenge gets underway.
More as it develops.
Jaime
The 'large' Microbrush works -great- for painting rails.
dave
Hey Jaime:
That color looks great on the rails. I have tons of that craft paint and I use it here and there from time to time. Keep the pic flowing.
Karl
Hey Jaime:
The stairs look great. Can't wait to see this one finished.
Karl
Moving on with the track... for now.
I applied an alcohol and India ink wash on the ties to tone down the color.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7730.JPG)
I then painted each individual tie with Americana Bleached Sand acrylic paint.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7731.JPG)
I then applied some of the DAP CrackShot (I found some at my local Ace Hardware) to build up the scenery base.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7732.JPG)
This stuff takes at least one whole day to dry. So I moved on to the roof over the main building's balcony while all that dried.
More coming up.
Jaime
Little did I know just how involved the roof over the main building's balcony was going to be. Let's just say that this has been the only bit that caused me to come really close to exhausting my "oh crap!" quota for the build ;D
Ok, here is the process I took to arrive at where I ended up.
I glued the two halves of the roof using a square as an aid. I basically taped the roof halves to the square and used really thin CA glue to glue the halves where they meet at a right angle.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7735.JPG)
In my exhuberance to glue the thing I spilled really thin CA glue all over the place. Let's just say I was not happy from that point forward.
Anyway, this is what it looked like from the underside.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7736.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7737.JPG)
Not too shabby, for now....
And when I went to apply glue on the opposite side it's when it started to go downhill.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7738.JPG)
I hate CA glue. Who knows why I use it?!
I tested to see how it would fit on the building.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7739.JPG)
Looking suitable at this point.
At this point I needed to measure out how to add the "battens" on the roof that simulate the metal roofing raised ribs.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7740.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7741.JPG)
So I made me a cheater spacer (top right of next photo) and marked the spots with an ink pen.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7743.JPG)
I glued the "battens" with white glue.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7744.JPG)
And when I was all done with that I discovered that the instructions say to space the "battens" 6 scale feet apart. I did mine 4.25 scale feet apart. Oh well. Too late for that. I'm not redoing it :P .
Next up is the process I took to paint the whole thing.
More coming up.
Jaime
The roof over the balcony is meant to be copper that has aged with a verdigris patina. The instructions say to use American Sea Breeze. I didn't have that. I was at Walmart and they had their Apple Barrel craft paints 2 for $1.00. So I decided to experiment. I mean at 50 cents each for the paints why not...
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7746.JPG)
There you have it. My experiment to approach verdigris patina. Not entirely convincing.
So I tried something else.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7747.JPG)
It needs some green.
I decided to go with Folk Art Pastel Green and to that add Apple Barrel Caribbean. I mean that sounds like fun.
I asked my wife for her opinion and she handed me a rusty copper pitcher she uses to water her plants.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7748.JPG)
As you can see I am getting pretty close to a match.
I painted the roof with cheap Walmart grey spray primer once the "battens" were dried.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7749.JPG)
Keep in mind I am trying to reproduce that green in the rusty pitcher.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7750.JPG)
I made a couple of tests on the underside of the roof which was also sprayed with the cheap grey primer.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7751.JPG)
What do you think? Too bright perhaps.
Well, I had to keep moving on. So I tried on three parts Pastel Green and one part Caribbean.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7754.JPG)
Wow! That is really bright. I must tone it down and it is too blue. Oh well. Have to keep moving for now so I will live with it.
I applied some alcohol and India ink wash and let it dry overnight.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7755.JPG)
More coming up.
Jaime
Jaime
Great modeling! I think you nailed the copper rust color. This build is really coming along very nice and I always enjoy your build threads.
And here is where I am at the moment.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7756.JPG)
I need to finish fitting the balcony roof and add a little bit more weathering.
I need to finish the ground cover.
I need to finish the track.
I need to add some details.
This is how I am ending up 2019. I have to make room on my workbench for the 2020 challenge. I'll be working on both projects at the same time so progress may slow down a tad.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime, the Takoma Shops look great so far. You got a good result in replicating the copper patina. Nice!
--Opa George
Thanks everyone for all the feedback. This is a fun kit and will make a great scene on anyone's layout... maybe even my own ;D
Jaime
I forgot to include this photo with my last update.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7758.JPG)
I've had that set of weathering powders from Fos Scale Models for some time. I used it to add some weathering to the balcony roof. I'll have a photo of all of that once I get all the scenery finished on the diorama.
And that is a good transition to a scenery update.
I put down some ground cover. I did that by mixing 3 parts of Apple Barrel Lite Mocha and one part of Apple Barrel Brown Oxide. To that I added the same volume of white glue and water. I painted the ground surface with that and on top of that I sprinkled on some Woodland Scenics Blended Turf.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7832.JPG)
And it ended up looking like this until it dries.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7837.JPG)
I have not decided what I will do in the areas left in the natural color of the GatorFoam.
I have a good bit of details I want to add to the scene. Mainly, I want to fence in the whole business lot. I have some Central Valley fencing (cast in black plastic). I plan to paint it with Rust-Oleum Camouflage Khaki and weather it.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7833.JPG)
This fencing has some neat detail cast in place. There are knot holes, rotten boards and plenty of wood grain detail.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7834.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7835.JPG)
There was minimal flash to clean up on the parts. I have great expectations for this fencing.
I also decided to paint some Crow River Products pallets and garbage cans and what-nots.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7836.JPG)
And now I wait for stuff to dry.........
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime, don't know if you saw my post on this. I've gotten -great- results by priming styrene with Badger Airbrush's Stynylrez "Neutral Yellow" primer. The color is the closest yet to raw new wood. Once that primer cures, I do pretty much whatever I'd do to regular wood. (Stains won't take as well, a couple of coats of stain work.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 04, 2020, 04:13:13 PM
Jaime, don't know if you saw my post on this. I've gotten -great- results by priming styrene with Badger Airbrush's Stynylrez "Neutral Yellow" primer. The color is the closest yet to raw new wood. Once that primer cures, I do pretty much whatever I'd do to regular wood. (Stains won't take as well, a couple of coats of stain work.)
dave
I will get some.
Jaime
Scenery glue is dryish...
This is what I ended up with.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7869.JPG)
Time to start ballasting.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7870.JPG)
I spread the ballast out of small cup and used a soft round brush to even it all out.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7873.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7871.JPG)
I made sure I could roll a freight car on the rails freely.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7872.JPG)
I used 50/50 dilute white glue to secure it down.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7874.JPG)
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7875.JPG)
And not I wait some more.....
More as it develops.
Jaime
Jaime very nice on this project.
Jerry
Thank you all for following along and your comments.
The scenery glue dried.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7979.JPG)
I seem to have the same problem with every piece of scenery I work on.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_7980.JPG)
See where the dilute glue soaks previously sceniced areas and leaves a clear mark. It's aggravating. It's like I have to do all the scenery all at one time.
Oh well. I have to move on.
I need to fill in the bare spots on the diorama base with Scultptamold and bring the scenery right up to the building's foundation.
I've decided Takoma Shops will be the first structure to get planted on the new layout I'm building (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4867.0) so I have to make a nice effort to and all.....
Jaime
Your layout will be off to a great start when you plant this beauty on it. :D I really like that finish on the porch roof. The colors overall are really nice too.
Jaime,
Fantastic build, love the colors. Hope it will have a front row spot on the layout.
Jim
What a marvelous building Jaime , love the roof on the patio.
Jaime,
Great job on the kit build. Water stains are easy to remove. Below is a link from my layout thread on how to remove water stains, easy peasy.
Tom ;D
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=53.2325 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=53.2325)
Hi, gang.
Thanks for all the feedback. I read it all.
I've been detoured from this build to concentrate on other stuff. I am slowly adding to it in between my other projects. I will have an update after the Springfield show.
I've decided this is going to be the first structure on my new layout so I need to get to building a layout to give this way cool kit a home.
More as it develops.
Jaime
Amazing work with this build, Jamie.
Looking forward to seeing the next update.
Jim
Quote from: JimF on January 23, 2020, 08:41:18 AM
Amazing work with this build, Jamie.
Looking forward to seeing the next update.
Jim
Thanks.
We should have something new in a week or so.
Jaime
Hey Jaime:
WOW1111 all I can is you have done A beautiful job on this. It just keeps getting better.
Karl
Jaime, the structures look absolutely top-shelf, but I am also enjoying watching the scenery take shape. Would like to see pics of how the Central Valley fencing turns out, once you have something to show. I recall George uses that a lot on the F&SM.
--Opa George
Amazing scene in the making.....well done Jaime. 8)
Progress Report
Thanks for all the great feedback. I am hoping to get this "finished" in the next couple of weeks.
Here is where I am at the moment.
(http://www.myyehudaexperience.com/images/Builds/CCK18177_TakomaShops/CCK18177_IMG_8522.JPG)
I need to finish the fencing, add details around the yard, add a few vehicles and some people. Then it is going on the first module of the layout.
I still struggle to get the scenery all done in a timely fashion. It is without a doubt my least favorite part of the hobby.
Jaime
Good to see the diorama coming together. Great work on the structures.
Jeff
Everything looks great.
Jaime
This is one fine looking build, well done. It's not done until the scenery is in. ;) I hope you learn to like the scenery part of the hobby once you get to blend these builds into your layout. Scenery has become one of my favorite parts of the hobby.