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Topics - DACS

#1
Scratchbuilding / From the ashes comes the Phoenix
December 22, 2020, 05:57:00 AM
   This may sound like an overly dramatic title, with which to begin a build thread.  But it is actually, very apropos.
   A model railroaders scrap pile of leftovers, is like having a thousand small kits in a box.  Priceless!

   I was looking at my 2 truck shay this a.m., mulling as it were, with a cup of joe in one hand and a homemade cinnamon roll in the other.  Something was missing.

Suddenly, I had a striking realization.  Or, in a more simple term; an epiphany!

The world took on a warm glow, amid all the B.S. that now surrounds us.

   Well, that"s enough tongue in cheek for today. 
   What was missing?
   A perfect little scratch build for a windy, rainy, cold day!

Now comes...the anticipation. 😀

Dave
#2
   I may be jumping the gun here a little, but I cannot help myself.  The excitement of actually seeing a plan and forward movement on this, has gotten me acting like a kid in a candy factory.

   The Willapa Valley Western will be a fictitious shortline railroad.  It's location will be Washington State.  It will have connections on both ends with major railroads.  Thus, "the bridge route" moniker.  Also, that will also explain different railroad named engines showing up on various occasions.  The WVW will have it's own motive power though, with it's own paint scheme.  Still working on that.  It is going to be set in the time frame of early to mid GP motive power.

   The railroad will be in the basement of my brothers abode, in a space (after much debate with the matriarch of the house), of 19' x 30'.  Originally 37', but concessions were made in the matter of some physical restrictions.  HOPEFULLY...These dimensions remain in tact.

   The railroad will be large enough that it will have mountainous (sub alpine), as well as some prairie landscaping.  It is going to be L-girder for the most part.  This was decided upon as there will be some trestles and scenery that will go below benchtop level almost to floor.

   I have a tentative outline diagram of the layout done...the islands, cover two posts that come out from the right 7'9" from the wall.  We have an overhead issue as the ceiling height is just at 6' 5".  So, all ceiling lighting will have to be flush mounted.  There will be valances, so we can put in led strip lighting.  The idea of making it a double decker went into the toilet with that ceiling height.  So, we decided to make it a single deck with a large upper and lower run of main line.  At the top of the layout, will be an upper and lower yard areas.  The lower will be a staging yard which will come out at the left,  with a helix going to the top yard and on the right side will go into a tunnel and come out below the upper yard on the right wall, while the upper comes through a canyon of sorts and will have a maximum 14" separation from the lower.  As the main line is extremely long, 225', not counting passing sidings, sidings or yards; grades will be no more than 3%.  The lower deck height will be 34" from the floor.  This means that many places on the lower section of the layout will drop below the main deck height.  In some, almost to the floor.

   The layout will be round and round, out and back or point to point.  DEPENDS ON ONES MOOD 

   The first thing we will be doing is studding, electrical and finishing out the space proper. 

   We will be putting display cabinets along the open left wall.  But, they will be built into the wall flush mounted, rather than being in the isle.   Which is  just a touch over 3' wide.

   The section in the lower left of the pic, is the workshop area with a holding yard above the work bench.  The white piece just above the work shop area, is the entrance door to the layout room.

   The layout will be DCC with sound, to eventually become both manually or computer controlled.  To accomplish this, we have decided to go with a hybrid combination of Digitrax and CTI layout control.  As neither him nor I know anything about computer language, we decided against JMRI totally.  CTI also requires language, but it is "BASIC".  That, I at least, can get through and he can learn.  It will be a good learning point for both of us.

   For now, I think that is it...now for the pic of the "TENTATIVE", layout area.  Notice that the track plan is not yet added.  That will show up in the next addition along with grade separations, heights and divider locations.  Oh, the ruler on the lower right, is an 18" steel rule.

Dave

   

     
   

#3
Scratchbuilding / Building HO Scale SA Style Signals
February 03, 2019, 06:31:52 PM
    I had tried to do a thread on building the jigs to make these signals.  But things happened beyond my control.  Microsoft did an upgrade to my OS, when the upgrade was finished, it took out my OS completely.  When they replaced my OS, it wiped my hard drive of all files and programs.  Once I had gotten everything back together, I tried to come back into the old thread and begin again.  It was an impossible task.  Too many changes had been made to the jigs and I was not able to repair the old thread.    I had the moderator completely remove it.
   So, I begin again.
   During the downtime, I had completed the jigs and have built 24 signals with them.  I was able to build two styles.  Single head mainline and interlocking two headed signals.
   With minor changes, I will be able to build at least two more styles with the same jig.
   The soldering iron was too hot for such small work.  It was scorching the jig as you will see, and melting previous joints.  To stop this, I built a 12V 2amp resistance soldering unit.  Works perfect for this light job.
   Here are some pics of signals built with the jigs and the new soldering unit. 











   I am starting this new thread at work.  So, this is just about it until my weekend arrives.  Which is Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.  So just around the corner.
   I will start with the jig on Tuesday.

Dave
Seattle




#4
Super Detailing / Cracked and Peeling Paint
July 16, 2016, 08:44:46 PM
It seems that one of the hardest things to do, is to simulate cracked and peeling paint.  All sorts of techniques are listed.  Some very involved.
What I am going to show, is probably the easiest way I have ever found to do it, and I discovered it quite by accident.  Of course, after I thought I had come up with it, I found later that it is a way to antique furniture.  Discovered by someone else.
Be that as it may, I found it by a quirk, a fluke, an accident/mistake...
I have not tried this on plastic parts, but I am not a real big fan of plasic in structures. Except of course clear window pane material excluded.  Wood or paper are my favorite mediums.

Anyhow, I do digress:

One day, I was using a small piece of stripwood, to spread a bead of white glue more evenly over a broad surface.  I set the stick to one side, went to reach for my paint and oops...tipped the bottle and spilled a little.  Well, that paint went right onto the glue end of the stick.  Not much, but enough.   I did not give it much thought till I picked up the stick.  What should appear to my wondering eyes, the paint was cracked!!!!  WOW!!  EPIPHANY!!!!!
From there, I went ahead and did some practice strips and got the same result, every time.  Before the glue dries, I would paint over it.
The glue dries under the paint and as it does so, the paint cracks!   Many experiments later, I found how to vary the effect.

Step 1.  Put the grain into the strip of wood.  I use a razor saw.





Step 2.   For me, it was gouging the bottom parts of the boards.  Aging it and giving it a very rotting and needing replaced look.
              Depends on you of course.  You can leave this step out if you prefer.





Step 3.  I will stain it with a very dark A/I mixture.



Step 4.  Now I will lay out a bead of white glue.



Step 5.  Then using my finger or a brush, spread the glue to a thin layer.  Try not to get the glue all the way to the top of the board, under the eaves, paint does not crack or peel as much.
At the bottom, I don't let it get into the cuts and gouges that much either.  The wood is missing, so goes the paint.



Step 6.  Do not let the glue dry.  Take a fairly coarse brush, dip in your favorite color of choice and in "one swipe only" apply your paint.
             Do not go back over the paint!!  Set aside to dry completely.  Let the process do it's thing!



Step 7.  Once completely dry, admire your hard work and realize, this structure will be needing maintenance.



Step 8.  Not finished yet.  Now you will using more of your A/I mix, just brush down the piece a couple of times.
             This really brings out the cracking detail.





Here is the engine house window/exterior wall pic again.  Each of the planks between the battens, are individual pieces as are the battens themselves.



You be the judge!!

You can use weathering powders from this point as you see fit.  Just go easy.  Dirty it up a little, but not much. Just to knock off any sheen that may be present.

Dave
Seattle
#5
Super Detailing / Making Antique Glass
July 13, 2016, 09:07:09 PM
Window glass has not always been a fine science.  Most, if not all of it was wavy because of imperfections.  Some had a rainbow shadow that would be lit up with sunlight.  All because of imperfections.
I have found a way, many moons ago, to make the wavy glass consistently.  Occasionaly, I can get the rainbow effect also.
This is done using this product.
This is not a floor wax, it is liquid acrylic.  So, it will not yellow with time.
Always apply this product, before you assemble your window pane to the frame.



To apply to the clear plastic piece of glass, I just use a rather coarse paint brush.



Before it completely dries, I then add the framing so it looks like individual glass panes.



You can wait till it completely dries.  But then you will have to use a glue that will more than likely craze the panes.  There is canopy glue.  It won't craze the plastic.  This is a glue model airplane builders use to fasten the canopy to the plane.

Any how...







That's about it everybody. 

Dave
Seattle
#6
Scratchbuilding / Scratchbuilt signals
March 15, 2016, 03:54:19 PM
As I stated in my "Lighting Your Model" thread, "I should probably do a thread on building the signals you are seeing."
So, here goes.
Now, these are in 'O' scale.  I know that most everyone posting here, is in 'HO' scale.  But, perhaps this might help someone wanting to try this.  Like gleaning wheat...
Who knows, I may try to build some for 'HO' also.  If my eyes and fingers allow it!  Gotta get these cataracs taken care of...

The drawings and measurements are taken from Wayne Rodericks website.  http://tslrr.com/sgnlhome.htm

This pic show all the components that go into making one regular signal, with the exception of the top cap and ladder.  There are 19 pieces per, including the electrical wire used.



I cannot find 'O' scale signal ladder stock at all.  Peco does put it out, but I cannot find anyplace in the great U.S. of A. that carries it.
Perhaps someone reading this can help me out here.
If not, I am probably going to make my own etched brass ladder stock.  I would use either .03 or .02 shim stock for this.  Gotta see.
Pretty thin, but, the thinner it is, the better, cleaner etchings you get.  If it comes to this, I will also do a brass etching thread.  Maybe, perhaps, might...probably.

The mast (1/8" o.d. x 4 1/2"length) brass tube.  K&S
Lower collar (5/32" o.d. x 1/8" length) brass tube.  K&S
The shield (.05 x 11/16" x 1 7/32") brass shim stock.  K&S
Guard rail (.020) brass rod.  K&S
Hoods (5/32" x 5/16 length) aluminum tube cut at an angle.  K&S
Shield standoffs (.03 x 5/64" brass shim stock.  K&S
The platform is actually made from some brass mesh that was intended for a model ship. It is much easier to find in smaller scale.
The cap, which is not in the pic, is made with Evergreen white plastic, turned in my dremel.  Gotta be careful with that!  It melts very quickly if pushed too fast.
The PCB circuit is designed by myself and etched in my shop.  A good source for PCB materials is:  www.circuitspecialists.com
They carry a large range of different boards as well as FR4, which I am going to have to get for another project.  Not too bad on prices either.
Then of course the 3mm RED, YELLOW and GREEN LED's.  I didn't make these.  :D   http://www.led-switch.com/
The wiring is insulated magnet wire.  It is all the same color, but I code them by the lengths of the wire used for each piece.
The ground, or common is the longest.  The Red is next in length.  The yellow is next in length and the the green is the shortest of the four.
This keeps everything working right and easy to wire up in the circuits.

30AWG can be had through Jameco Electronics.  In Red, Yellow, Green, Black, White, Brown...etc..  http://www.jameco.com/1/3/kynar-wire-wrap-wire

Taking the cut collar tube, slide it onto the mast, locate the lower collar position and solder to the mast.  I use 60/40 solder and rosin.
This measurement is 3 5/8" from the top of the mast to the bottom edge of the collar.  Small note here: always measure from what you determine to be the top of the mast to the bottom edge of the collar.   Make a scribe mark.  Put some rosin inside the collar and on the mast, then solder.  It won't require much.



Next, the mark for the shield location, needs to be made on the top end of the mast.  This is 7/32" down to the "TOP" of the standoff.
The standoffs are not soldered on at this time.

Next, take the shield and mark the centerline, side to side.
Next, mark the centerline, top to bottom.
Then measuring 1/4" from the center, to the top and scribe.  Then measuring 1/4" from the center, to the bottom.  This has got to be very exact.  This is the hardest part of the whole thing.  The PCB's and LED's need to line up perfectly.  You can adjust the grinding part if you are off a tad.  But, this is a step that has to be done with care.
I have been drilling out the LED/hood holes with drill bits then finishing off with a conical grinding wheel with my dremel.  Very slow.  Too fast and you end up with holes that are too big.  These are to be finished out to be the exact inside diameter as the O.D. of the aluminum hood tubes.







Here, I had talked with Bob Parrish about him making me a tool and die for punching out the holes in the shield for the hoods and led's. He gave me a suggestion I had not thought of.  Grind a drill bit the size of the holes you want, on the blank end.  Using a dremel cut-off wheel, carefully grind it until you have a concave with sharp edges.  This is the metal punch.  Then, using a piece of mild steel, drill a hole the same size as the bit.  Voila', hole punch.  I have been working on this, but have no pics to share as of yet.  I will also have to make a jig for this.  To keep everything lined up.
I know what I mean, but Bob might be able to better explain it than I am doing.

I made a stiff cardstock pattern for the rounded ends of the shield.  Using this, I made a brass pattern for the actual marking of the shields.



Will take this up a little later.  Now, I have domesticated things to do.

Dave

Seattle



#7
Lighting Your Model / Full function signal system
January 14, 2016, 09:03:48 AM
Ok, my apologies.  I was only trying to help those who want an operating signal system on their layouts.  It was not my intent to confuse anyone.
It is a building block system, built one at a time.  Like looking at a bundle of wires can be very confusing.  How could I ever do that?  If you run one wire at a time, it is not longer confusing.
I have heard many model railers voice that they would love to have an operating signal system on their layouts.   I was going to show how to construct the boards, build the signals, commercial ones are way to expensive if you haven't noticed. :)
This was and is a very inexpensive system to build and it is really satisfying to see your trains running up/down the line, with the signals doing their thing.
Perhaps I was overthinking it all.
So, I removed the thread.  Perhaps, when I am able to explain it in easier terms, I will retry.  Till then, I removed the thread.
Again, it was not my intent to confuse.

Dave
Seattle
#8
Scratchbuilding / Horace and William Creek Sandhouse
September 18, 2014, 12:27:03 PM
Yes, I know, I still have the turntable hanging by a thread! (pun intented)  :)  But, I will get back to it.  I just got a little burned out on it.
I was not happy with the oil bunker, so, I remanufactured it.  Now it can dispense oil from both sides.  I will put pics of it a little later in the thread I already have it on.

Here is the sandhouse I am building at the moment.  It still has a ways to go before I can call it good.  I am going to build the storage container and dispenser piping, out of brass and plastic.  The support tower will be wood.  It will be the style of the D&RG sandhouses.
Anyway, here are some pics of where I am at now:







Roof detail





Cribbing







My next step is to cut out the door and the chute hatch in the building end.

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle
#9
Dioramas / Oil bunker diorama
August 05, 2014, 12:41:18 PM
Started another small diorama.  This one is of the oil bunker for the engine service module on the Horace and William Creek.
This is just a temporary home for the bunker and pump house.  It will eventually, end up on the actual module.

This is mounted on a piece of pink foam measuring 11 1/4" width and 8" in depth.

Today, I mounted the ties, the rail and started putting down the dirt.  The tank and pump house are not fastened down.



The dirt is actual sifted dirt.  It is wet here with the diluted white glue/water and dish detergent.











More updates coming!  NBW's, junk, oil drums, chain hoist, spout mechanism, puddles of oil, tank unloading hose, a few weeds here and there...etc!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle
#10
Super Detailing / How I Do This
July 22, 2014, 12:36:57 PM
I asked an administrator recently, about putting in a "weathering techniques forum."  I never got a response so, I thought perhaps I would just do some threads, here in "Superdetailing!"  Which is what this is actually.

I found, quite by accident one day, how to achieve cracking paint for structures in need of a good scraping and repainting.  Later, I found out that it is actually, a technique for cracking paint on furniture, to achieve an aged and used appearance.
It is done, with white glue and acrylic paint.



Here ya go on how I get the "look," on the boards.
First, I will scraped the "victim board," down, with a very fine toothed razor saw, then clean it up with steel wool.



Once I am finished with that, I will then begin using an exacto knife, to rough it up.  Making the board look very aged and needing some serious attention.  This is something you can skip.  If you just want the boards to look fine, just the paint needing replaced.



Then, I clean it up again with a few swipes of steel wool.



Once here, I will then stain the board with a dark black A/I.  Then place some white glue on the board.



With "ONE" swipe of a wide brush, I will bring it down the board. Notice I did not go all the way to the top. The reason for this is, the boards will not be as weathered under the roof eaves.  Do not press down with the brush.  Just let it glide over the surface.  Do not try to touch it up!  One swipe!



After this is allowed to dry for about 5 mins., I then swipe the paint color of my choice up the board.  Do not go over it more than once!!  If you do, the entire effect will be null.  I will not use more paint than is necessary.  If you miss spots, don't worry about it.  Let it be!  Do not press down with the brush.  Just let it glide over the surface.  It is tempting to go back over it, but don't!



Now set aside to completely dry!  As it is drying, you can do more.  As many as you want.  The important thing to remember is, let them all dry completely before the next step.
Once dry, you take your A/I mixture again, and with one swipe down each board with your trusty brush, set aside again to let completely dry.
Do not worry about perfection here.  There is actually, perfection in imperfection!



After some practice on some scrap pieces (if there is any such thing), this is what you are wanting.



Once the structure is done, you can then go over it with a light brushing of weathering powders.  This pushes it all back, yet brings out the details more sharply.

Enjoy!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle
#11
Modeling Reference Pix / Old buildings and such
July 18, 2014, 07:13:36 PM
Puruse for possible structures to build.









Dave HWCRR
Seattle
#12
Dioramas / Station at William Creek
July 18, 2014, 06:40:54 PM
When I dismanteled the HWCRR modules, I made a small diorama for the station at William Creek.  It occupies a conspicuous spot in my living room.



Dave  HWCRR
Seattle
#13
I thought I would throw my hat in the ring and show how I do Tar Paper roofing.

I will use brown wrapping paper, the kind used for mailing packages through the mail.  One roll will last an eternity and do untold numbers of structures.  :D

As I work in 'O' scale, I will normally cut strips 3/4" in width and 6" in length.  This, of course, represent 36"x24' pieces.  You can, of course, make them any length and width you want.  I choose this length for ease of managability.
You can also just roll these up and make them as unused roofing rolls.  Good warehouse dock loads! How about a truck loaded with these heading to a roofing job?  :) :)





Placing the strips on another piece of wrapping paper, I will then color them using an A/I mix of black India ink and alcohol.  These inks do come in other colors.  I buy them at a local art supply store.





I will allow this to dry between applications.  I usually end up doing about three.  The amount of ink you have in the mix of course, will determine how dark or bright a stain you end up with.
The side you stained, will end up pretty solid in color.  The back will usually be a blotchy mix.  I have used both sides.
You will notice on the example, that the darker side, is varigated.   How is it that Bob Ross used to say, "there are no mistakes, just happy accidents!"  Nothing is beyond using.  ;)





Then, whatever size roof you are wanting to cover, start laying it out.  I always leave an overlap on the roof edges.





Using white glue as my adhesive of choice in this,  I work my way up the roof.  Overlapping the next over the next...etc..













Using my trusty razor blade, I will go under the overlapping and lift.  Giving the look of dried out and lifting tar paper.



If you want it to look newer, skip this step.



If you want really aged tar paper, then take a brush with just plain water and soak some spots of the roof.



Then just start worrying it with a razor blade or your finger.







Once I have it where I want it, I then using weathering powders to finish 'er off!





This particular roof, is for a small pump house for the engine service facilities on the HWCRR.



Here are pics of a couple of structures I have used this method on.





Dave HWCRR
Seattle
#14
Hey all...thought I would share this while working on the T/T thread.  Gives me a break.
This is how I build the conifers for my modules.  They can be any height, breadth...etc..  Only you are the master of your domain.

In the great outdoors against the real deal.



On a now long gone module.



I build my trunks in two very distinct manners.  One way is for background trees.  Handcarved trunks.



The other is for trees in the foreground, where more detail can be observed.

 

Rounded trunks then sagebrush bark added.  I really prefer these, but when a tree is in the back ground, there really isn't the need for the extra work of adding the bark.

Do I have your attention?

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle
#15
I had looked for a long time, trying to find a gallows turntable in kit form for the HWCRR.  For one very large reason, they don't exist.  Not to mention the size I was wanting.  Neither does the spider assembly that it rides on.   So....
Break out the paper the tools, glue, wood, cardstock, plastic and lots of patience.

The spider assembly is my design and engineering ability in total  It is also fully functional.  Another part of the table that was designed by myself and  fully functional, is the locking mechanism on either end of the table.  This is, of course, something one can add or not.  The table operation does not depend upon its even being there, but, I had to prove to myself I could build it as a working locking mechanism.   The turntable itself, is a general design of a gallows turntable.  It was gleaned from pictures and other info I could get from the internet.

Here are some pics of what will be built in this thread.

The first part of this build thread, will be making the fully functional spider assembly.
The second part will be to build the table proper.
The third will be to make the locking mechanisms.  This is last because as I said earlier, they can be added or not.  It is entirely up to the decision you make.

This is where it is supposed to end up.



Enjoy!

Dave  HWCRR
Seattle, Wa
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