Builders in Scale G. W. Nichols Wood - build challenge

Started by Oldguy, December 31, 2019, 10:42:06 PM

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S&S RR

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad


Oldguy

#62
The workshop gets two sliding doors.  The "track" is made up of two 2x6s.  I glues the doors on, ansd yes, I noticed the left one is slanted.  It has been fixed.  The track is just on for show.

Before I can add the store room, I need to build the attached dock.  I decided to use the provided support template, but in hindsight, I should have developed my own.  One just has to remember to account for the dock cutout for the stairs.  Then it was a matter of deciding on the joist spacing.  I found that the 24" spacing wouldn't work very well.  Another reason to have done my own template.  So, I went with the 16" spacing.

Then, it was on to the decking.  As I mentioned earlier, the provides a square piece of siding, maybe 3' to 4" spacing.  Um, no.  It was a matter of cutting enough material for the entire deck, all cut to length to fit.  Then, I took that material and cut it into more appropriate material length, not to exceed 12'.  I made up the deck into two manageable sections.  First, I needed to flip the cut pieces over so that the cuts would show.  Once, I got the pieces corralled, I used the joist template to glue on some material to hold it together. The intent was not to glue on anything where a joist would go.  That was the intent.  Too bad it didn't always work out.

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

I remembered the cut out section.  And when flipped over, I did okay.  Not perfect, but okay.  Then, both sections ready to go.

Then it was a matter of adding the joists.  I wanted to start at each end, establishing the overhang.  The guide, used horizontally made easy work aligning the joists.  Just don't add glue to the joists that go into the guide.  And oops, right off the bat, a sticker smack dab in the way.  I'll just work around it for now, install as many joists that I can, let everything sit overnight and removed the offending objects tomorrow.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Removed some of the offending bits and finished adding the joists.  Then add the dock supports.  Another use of the truss templates was spacing for the rafter tails.

While the glue was drying, it was time for the dock crane.  Fairly simple.  Was especially easy since the rope guides are simply installed between the 2 4x8s.  Makes adding the "rope/cable real easy.  The kit includes a good piece of thread plus some sisal for the wire rope spools.  Oh, I don't think so.  A little spot of thin ACC secured one thread end to the winch.  Then up an over the two guides.  I add thin ACC to all thread sections and when dry, then work on the down part of the line.  I add a clamp to the loose end and let it put some tension on the bitter end and then add some more thin ACC.  Once that has dried, the line is cut and the hook glued on.  Now all parts of the line appear to be taut.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

richbeau

I have this kit 'on the shelf' so this thread will be a keeper for me. Beauteous work Bob! Love the expanded shed.
--Rich

Opa George

Bob, you nailed it with the rope and crane. Excellent results. There is a similar crane assembly in the BIS Tidewater Wharf, and I remember struggling to get the look of the rope just right.
--Opa George

postalkarl

Hey Bob:

Looks great I especially like the small crane built with actual wood and metal castings. Looks great.

Karl

Oldguy

Quote from: Opa George on February 07, 2020, 09:51:52 AM
Bob, you nailed it with the rope and crane. Excellent results. There is a similar crane assembly in the BIS Tidewater Wharf, and I remember struggling to get the look of the rope just right.
--Opa George
Once you get the knack of adding the ACC on the string, it makes it a lot easier and looks better.  I have yet to add the hand crank on the winch.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Quote from: postalkarl on February 07, 2020, 01:42:30 PM
Hey Bob:

Looks great I especially like the small crane built with actual wood and metal castings. Looks great.

Karl
It does look good doesn't it.  I was pleasantly surprised how it turned out.  I learned a lot by watching you.  And a lot of those here as well.  Three pieces of wood and sprue of metal parts.  I don't know if Jim did the masters, or who, but the parts are fantastic.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Did a bunch of piddly bits.  I was happy that the dock height was spot on.  I added the storeroom without any modifications.  I do like the lengthened dock, but I really messed up on it's placement.  But chances are if I don't mention it (too late) not that many would find it. 


They included three wire rope reels.  I added wire rope to two of them.

One complaint on my work.  Well, maybe more than one, but the biggest is that I am not adding any lighting.  The storeroom has three sets of shelves that are to be installed.  But if installed can't be seen.  Same for the workroom.  There is a decent table saw casting, but if installed, you can't see it..  Unless lighting is added.

I have been waiting on my wood shipment so I can finished the lumber storage bin.  Once that is done, then I can start to weather everything built.  But then, I also need to figure out the base for this.  Especially since I need to make a chain link fence and I really want to include a ravine.


Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond


Mark Dalrymple

Nice work, Bob.

I especially like the crane.

Cheers, Mark.

Oldguy

Carl and Mark, thanks for the support.

Still waiting for my Mt Albert shipment.  I decided that I definitely want the office addition to be on piers, that means a ravine.  First, I need to determine how all these will fit into the allotted area.  This space would suggest the yard access from the side.  Which in turn would require any traffic to cross the ravine and what better bridge than an old flat car.  The kit includes material for a chain link fence.  There is some extra material, but not enough for this new alignment.  The popsicle sticks represent the stock fence sections.  There is a sliding gate section that will need to go in line with the bridge.  So now what about the remaining perimeter fence?  Since this is a lumber yard, I'll make up a wood fence to go along the track side.  I like to use pan pastels and weathering powders to color the boards and posts.

I finally decided to make the base out of 2" foam attached to 3/8" piece of Gaterboard.  This should bring up the lot to th base of the rails.  It was a simple matter of pressing a cut off piece of foam in place and cutting neat the rail impression to get a close fit.  I just hope I didn't flood the extant foam with a ton of glue.  Anyway, I decided to use some newish brown spray paint, for the base.  Thankfully it was in the upper 50s, so I could spray the plastic compatible paint outside.  Hmmmmm, plastic compatible doesn't mean foam compatible.  WT . . . . . ?  Gotta let 'er rest overnight and see if it can be salvaged.  In the meantime, I got a fence to build.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Still waiting on my wood shipment. Sooooooo I'll work on the base.  I made a run to my local ACe hardware store and picked out a base dirt color and slapped it over the spray paint.  I carved out where the drainage ditch will go and found it made the foam a little limp, so I reinforced it with some 3/8" gator board.  Then it was a matter of removing the 2" foam on the 5/8" plywood.  It came up relatively easily once I added a lot of cross cuts.  Some judicious trimming and the diorama base fit right in.  And yes, I use 1/2" foam for spline roadbed.

Now it was a matter of figuring out where all the building will go.   In this case, placement of the fencing set some of the parameters, i.e. keep the wood fence distance a multiple of 4 feet and the chain ink at eight feet, except for the gate.  Once all that is figured out, I know where the gate will go and that determined the placement of the flatcar bridge.  As an aside the Athearn flatcar kit included metal side stakes.  Never had one like that before.  Then it was a matter of making the wood fence.  I cut 2x4s eight feet long and the 1x6 vertical boards eight feet tall.  The 4x4 support posts are 10 feet long.  I found using a cut off popsicle stick to hold down the boards while gathering them side by side made construction easier.  It also worked to space the mid rail. 

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

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