I am starting a new HO gage layout in my garage. SP RR in this case is short for the Suphrin Pathetik. When I was in high school my father and I were in the process of building an HO layout in our basement. My father worked for the Southern Pacific in San Francisco. We belonged to the local model railroad club and made several excursions to see John Allen's layout in Monterey. Of course everyone knows the name of his layout was the Gorre and Daphedid. I then suggested to my father that we name our RR the Suphrin and Pathetik and he liked it.
So after some 50 years and retirement and other hobby diversions, I am starting on a new layout in the garage. But first I had to clean out some space in it which included and experimental airplane kit which I never finished. I finally sold it last year.
I changed the lighting in the garage. I removed the old fluorescent fixtures which didn't produce enough light and had installed new LED fixtures. Home Depot had a new 48" LED shop light in their store last week. It has 3100 lumens and the color is 4000 kelvin. I bought 11 of these fixtures. The layout will cover 230 sf. The new fixtures will provide about 148 lumens per sf. I read an article which said that you should have about 100 lumens per sf of work area and it also said to allow for a loss of lumens on the work surface. So I have allowed about a 33 percent loss. The new lighting is fantastic. The fixtures are hung by chains from the ceiling. The garage ceiling slopes from 11 ft.
So I bet that you never thought you would see an airplane on the forum.
So this has been in the planning for several years now and I have been working on a track plan during this time. I wanted a railroad with some logging operations and a mainline railroad to service it. After looking at a lot of track plans in the Model Railroader I put together the attached plan. I used the 3rd plan it CAD system to draw the layout. I tried one of the other software products on the market and it was very cumbersome to use. It allows for many different trial versions of a layout until you finally get what you want. Another thing I did was asked for comments from fellow model railroaders as to what their thoughts were and also what they thought from an operations standpoint. I also used the software to design the bench work. Now it is time to visit Home Depot or Lowes for the lumber.
Nice area to work with. I will be watching!
8)
It looks like your access to the helix in the lower left corner will be from below?
Steve,
Appears you have all the details worked out. I'll be following along with the others.
Tom ;D
I will follow too.
Eric Québec city
Looks like you're going to have a bit of fun Steve.....I'll be watching your progress.
It's a shame you didn't get the plane finished so you could fly it.....if that's the model I think it is, it is a fast and fun plane to fly. Many of those kit planes are great performers and economical, but I can't imagine, with my pathetic mechanical skills, I'd want to risk my life in something I built.
Don't forget to post plenty of pictures.....we all love pictures! ;D
I'd never build my own plane. I'd have parts left over and wonder what they were for. :) Two years ago at EAA Oshkosh, they built a plane in a week, but had 'pros' do it. Looking forward to your progress on the layout.
Jeff
Steve
A brand new space to fill with a layout - this is going to be fun to watch. I like your plan.
Thanks everyone for your interest. I will try to include lots of progress pictures.
James, about 3/4 of the helix will have access from below. It will go into a tunnel before the spur will cross over the top of it.
Greg, the airplane kit is a Glasair I with a retractable landing gear, and will cruise at about 190 miles per hour with a 180 horsepower engine and it is very fuel efficient. I just lost interest in the project and I am returning to model railroading in my retirement.
Looks very interesting, Steve.
I'll be checking in on your progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Steve,
I will watch your layout build. ;)
Thanks Mark and Tom for your interest. I am having a Fujistu mini split heat pump unit installed in the garage on Thursday this week. Got to keep the place cool in the desert in the summer.
Great , another layout thread , I will be following, looking forward to all the photo's ;D
Steven,
Glad to see your post on the SP railroad. This means you are really getting serious. The lighting looks great. Keep posting your progress.
Frank / Erieman
Monday I went to Home Depot to purchase the lumber for the bench work and helped out a friend with his project. Yesterday I started the construction of the bench work. I drew the bench work plans with 3rd Planit and the details for the frames that will support the L-Girders. I am prefabricating them. Today, after installing a ceiling fan for the wife in her home office, I cut the legs to length, drilled holes for the T-nuts. I will be able to make adjustment to the height to compensate for the uneven concrete floor.
Steve,
As I mentioned, it looks like you have all the details down! Great idea on being able to level the bench work.
Tom ;D
That is one amazing layout your about to dive into. I restarted mine 2 years ago and again added the leg adjusters, works good for the most part , especially setting up in the basement where the floors are smooth but also flow toward the middle. I found attaching to the wall studs did the most support where as the legs did help . Just joining the site so it will be nice to follow along with your adventure.
Thanks for stopping by Lynn. I wanted all the vertical support on the legs, just in case the layout needs moving someday. I am attaching it to the walls for horizontal support though.
Steve
Your off to a great start - I will be following your progress.
I have been prefabricating more components for the bench work the last couple of days. I have completed 10 leg pairs with a keeper joist and diagonal bracing, and have completed the L-Girders.
I sort of set up a template to fabricate the leg pairs. They are different in widths. I used drywall screws and glued the joints.
On the l-Girders, I applied glue to the joint between the 1x2 and the 1x4 and placed drywall screws 1' centers.
So in the next several days I will assemble all the components into the bench work.
The Man Has A Plan!!!
Go get 'em Steve!!
Ix like seeing big stacks of lumber.
8)
Andy, I am hoping to see lots of track soon. Donato, I trying hard with the plan.
Just wanted to let everyone that I haven't slacked off. I started to assemble the bench work in the sawmill area and the canyon. There will be three separate tracks crossing the canyon on various bridges types. The canyon will be in the lower area in the center shown in the photo. I sure am glad I installed the adjustable glides in the bottom of the legs. The garage floor is not level.
Steve,
I like your use of prefab leg assemblies and the levelers. Your bench work looks very neat and solid. Looking forward to your progress.
Jerry
The first 2 pictures are what is completed today on my benchwork. The next two pictures show how much adjustment was need in the leg levelers. I had to order new levelers with a 2-1/2" thread because the original ones I purchased were only 1-1/2". They were not long enough to provide the proper support. The 5th picture, I labeled the different major areas of the layout. I still need to finish the area in the front where the rail yard etc. is located
Steve,
You are making great progress. Glad to see it in three dimensions. Keep up the great work. What's next?
Frank / Erieman
Nice work on the benchwork...
can't wait to see your next progress
Eric Québec city
Nice work Steve...It's interesting to me to see how people with a plan and discipline build their layouts ;D
John
Quote from: Cuse on February 24, 2016, 06:24:37 AM
Nice work Steve...It's interesting to me to see how people with a plan and discipline build their layouts ;D
John
Steve,
You sure are fast! I never had a plan and probably don't have much discipline. I do have a whole bunch of redo in me.
Tom ;D
Frank, I need to finish the bench work up, get it leveled and start the track bed. I am going to try to use spline roadbed made out of 1/4" Masonite. If it doesn't work out well then it is Plan B
John and Tom, When you have a plan, you make mistakes along the way and screw things up and then you still have to redo them though. Maybe not as much though.
Eric thanks for you nice comment.
Hi,
you´re doing fantastic benchwork. It´s looking straight and clean. Great work.
Regards,Chris
Thanks for the compliment Chris.
OK The bench work is complete. The furniture levelers came today in the mail and I installed them where the longer stem was needed. I also leveled the top surface and squared up the bench work and I am now ready for the next phase.
Impressive!!! Fast AND Neat.....
Thanks Donato, Now everyone will see how the next phase will go, track work and wiring and I hope just as neat and fast.
Steve,
Progress is looking great. I might just have to take a drive down and see it in person.
Frank / Erieman
Nice benchwork!
Jeff
Come on down Frank.
Thanks for your nice comment.
Steve
The benchwork and plan look great. I will be following your progress.
I guess the good stuff starts now John. thanks for your nice comments
Quote from: sdrees on February 27, 2016, 09:10:44 PM
I guess the good stuff starts now John. thanks for your nice comments
Steve,
Fantastic bench work. The fun definitely starts now.
Tom ;D
I started work on the sub roadbed. I prefabbed the risers and cleats for the railroad yard as shown in the first picture. They were then set in place with clamps, leveled and screwed in place with one screw. The plywood is sitting on the risers and cleats in picture 3. The next step is to screw the plywood in place check that is level and make final adjustments with the risers and add more screws to hold the riser.
There will be a helix built on the end closes to the camera to get to the lower level.
Now that is some good looking bench work.
Jim
Wow ! ! ! !
Way too scientific for me !
thanx
Bob
Steve,
Your benchwork is looking great. Really like the progress you are making. No grass growing under your feet. Keep up the wonderful job. Are you coming to the NMRA meet on Saturday? Or will you be in the garage working on the benchwork?
Frank / Erieman
Thanks Jim and Bob for stopping by. I don't know what is scientific about it Bob. You just need a plan.
There might be a slight chance that I will go to the meeting on Saturday. I see what is said at lunch tomorrow Frank. I think the sub roadbed in the yard and industrial area should be done next week.
Steve,
Great progress photos on your railroad empire. Hope that you inspire many others to get going with theirs ! 8)
Great progress Steve.....thanks for posting your progress.....I'll be looking in. 8)
Thanks for your nice comments Gregory and Tom. Now back to the garage for more railroading fun.
So I am getting ready to install the sub roadbed on the remainder of the layout. I was thinking about using spline roadbed. I like the idea of splines because of all the curves involved and by doing so you get the natural easement going into the curves. But some say that the spline roadbed makes the installation of the tortious switch machines difficult. My minimum radius is 24". I was going to use 1/4" Masonite.
Otherwise, I could cut the roadbed out of 1/2" birch plywood. I will not use the 1/2" sanded fir plywood from Home Depot anymore. It is only 3 ply and is warped. I was Ok in the yard and industrial area because it is screwed down with a lot of screws.
Are there any thoughts on this.
Thanks
I've never done spline roadbed, but all that I've seen in magazines and real life was more than an inch deep (top to bottom). So I could imagine it's better for ground throws and pushrods from the front of the layout. I know 1/8" masonite can be bent tighter than 24" radius. Less sure about 1/4". Used some for fascia once, but that layout had all straight edges, so I never tried bending it.
More progress to report. I finished laying the sub roadbed for the industrial area. I used a Bosch self leveling laser to level both the upper area and the lower area. It is an easy tool to use. Probably to scientific for Bob Parrish though.
That's a fact ....
I'm stuck with old school stuff like a level.
Oh... And stuff like put down a strip of flex trak and roll a Central Valley truck across it and see if it leeks going. I need to wind my watch into the twentieth century.
See ya
Bob
A cheap laser level is actually a very handy tool for the layout room. So's an app for your cellphone that can measure vertical angles.
dave
Quote from: bparrish on March 10, 2016, 06:38:58 PM
That's a fact ....
I'm stuck with old school stuff like a level.
Oh... And stuff like put down a strip of flex trak and roll a Central Valley truck across it and see if it leeks going. I need to wind my watch into the twentieth century.
See ya
Bob
Is this what you use Bob??
(http://bestplants.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/p055.gif)
Actually that is a pretty accurate method.
In my earlier life when I was doing engine swaps, we would put a glass of water on the engine intake manifold and level the three engine mounts. This was necessary because float chambers in carburetters were unforgiving about this stuff.
See ya
Bob
I have been working on the helix recently. I used a large piece of construction paper and drew a template on it so that when I cut out the sub roadbed pieces I could check for the proper radius when they are attached together. I used a router to make lap joints to attach the sub roadbed pieces together with glue.
I attached the buss wires to the underside of the sub roadbed.
Then I calculated what the riser heights should be at eight points and screwed them to the plywood base you see.
I installed the sub roadbed on the risers for the first turn and will lay the track before I continue with the remainder of the helix.
Steve,
You are moving right along. It all looks great. Thanks for all the photosl.
I've used the water level method several times. Mostly on setting footers when I built the train room. Of course a clear hose is necessary but really comes in handy when the ground ins't level. It is also very helpful when you want a level over 8 feet long.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 25, 2016, 08:57:40 AM
Steve,
You are moving right along. It all looks great. Thanks for all the photosl.
I've used the water level method several times. Mostly on setting footers when I built the train room. Of course a clear hose is necessary but really comes in handy when the ground ins't level. It is also very helpful when you want a level over 8 feet long.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I think you have a serious beverage challenger here. Look at all the Coke that Steve has in his room. Hmmm. Just saying,
Steve,
Great photos. Looks like you are making a lot of wonderful progress. Keep up the great work.
Frank / Erieman
(http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1811.0;attach=21057;image) (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1811.0;attach=21057;image)
Steve
You are really moving along - looks great!
Tom, Frank and John thanks for stopping by. When you live in the desert, you have to stay hydrated. Tucson water tastes lousy, so you have to drink something. If it was scotch or beer, I would not be making the progress I am.
I did some test fitting of the remainder of the helix today. It came together like the plan said it would. Now is time to lay some track on the first layer of the Helix. I will have to lay it directly on the plywood or else there will be clearance problems.
Really making some progress.
Well I jumped to trying to build some spline roadbed while waiting for some turnouts and Sweep Sticks from Fast Track.
My minimum radius is 24" on the mainline. I went to a wood store and bought a piece of 6' long 1x6 Poplar for this trial. I cut it into 1/4" wide strips on a table saw. This afternoon I installed the risers for a 24" radius turn with easements. I then drove a finish nail in the center of each riser. Then I placed several strips of the Poplar against the nails and held them in place with spring clamps. The clamps I bought at Harbor Freight for a $1.50. It worked out great. Did not have any problem with the Poplar breaking and I did not need to soak it in water first.
What was really nice is that the easements just naturally formed and I didn't have to figure out the mathematics for them. My main line has a lot of sweeping turns, so this method will work out very nicely.
I will add the additional strips and glue them to each other. For the mainline, I plan to make the roadbed 8 strips or 2" wide to allow for the use of cork road bed on top.
I will now go to the wood workers store and purchase additional lumber and have them cut the 1/4" wide strips.
Steve,
I have read a bit about splined roadbed, I'll be interested to see how it works out for you. Everything sure looks good so far!
A few years ago I helped a friend put up a spline roadbed, seemed like a BIG waste of time to me. I could never see what was so great about it except it is a lot more work.
First of all, thanks for stopping by Jerry and Andy. Appreciate your comments.
Attached are photo's of the results of my first try at installing spline roadbed. I was quite happy with the way it turned out. I did not have any problem with bending the Poplar 1/4" wide strips on a 24" radius. I did not need to soak them with water nor did any of them break. For me I think that the key is to have a very good scaled drawing of your track work. My plan had the location of the curve radius points and the start and finish points of the curve, straight sections and the easements. I installed risers at all these points and others as needed My mainline has a lot of curves and easements. Like I said before, the easements are formed naturally with this method.
Bench work looks great, spline roadbed will make nice easements and add to your solid bench work Steve. Thought I read some where the spline roadbed will reduce train noise. I will be following along.
This past week I laid my first track on the helix. I used DAP clear Kitchen and Bath Adhesive Sealant to glue the track down. To apply it, I used a small trowel with grooves for placing grout for tile that I had for spreading the sealant. I got a nice even amount on the sub roadbed. I used Fastracks Fast Sticks to maintain the proper radius white the sealant set.
Where the helix is in two layers, the proper vertical clearance is very tight so I laid the track directly on the sub roadbed. Where the track daylights, I started the use of cork roadbed and had to create a transition buy sanding the cork roadbed. You will notice there are two layers of cork. The first layer will be only used for yards and sidings and the logging railroad. The second layer is added to the mainline only.
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by. The easements turned out very nice on this section. I do plan to place cork roadbed on top of the spline sub roadbed.
Hi,
gresat work on the benchwork and the spline roadbed looks fantastic.
Regards,Chris
Steve,
Bench work looks fantastic. Howard Zane swears by the spline roadbed. I've never tried it so I can't comment. That said, I've heard it both ways. Yours and what I saw of Howard's was really fantastic on the natural easements.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Thanks for your comments. Also thanks for the info on posting pictures and text.
I finished laying track on the helix yesterday, and I completed the wiring for it today. You can see in the picture that I used suitcase connectors to fasten the feeder wires to the bus wires. I was able to run a train today to test out the helix and everything went very well.
Next, I will work some more on the spline roadbed for the mainline track.
Yea! Trains are running on the SP RR. Congrats on the test run.
Tom ;D
It's always great when the trains run.
thanks Andy and Tom. It is great when a train can run the first time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPmVhyHBRAM
dave
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-260416200756.jpeg)
This is what I got done today. I laid out where the key risers should be located. Such as the beginning of an easement, the beginning and end of the 24" radius, and the top of the 24" curve. Some of the risers are only temporary and will be removed.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-260416201008.jpeg)
I think that I mentioned before that the clamps came from Harbor Freight at $1.50 ea
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-260416200923.jpeg)
I place 4 splines at a time or half of them. Once the glue is set overnight, I will place the other 4 splines.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-260416200841.jpeg)
I had the wood workers store cut the splines for me. They only charged me $15.00. They were cut from 2 12' pieces 1" x 6" Poplar.
Yes Dave, the SP RR has come alive.
Thanks
I have been completing the mainline spline sub road bed for the mainline RR.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516202206.jpeg)
First install the risers to their correct height.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201306.jpeg)
Place a nail in the center of the riser and clamp the splines to it.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201235.jpeg)
If there is a straight section of track between curves, it is necessary to clamp the splines to a straight piece of wood. Also, it might be necessary to clamp the splines down to the risers if there is a change in grade.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201156.jpeg)
All the clamps in place holding half of the total splines waiting for the glue to dry.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201444.jpeg)
All the clamps removed and the first half the splines are screwed to the risers.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201633.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-090516201604.jpeg)
The next step is to install the next four splines, glue and clamp them to the first four that were placed
Steve,
Looking good, but do I denote a straight section of track on the horizon ( last photo)? Howard Zane is a firm believer of "No straight track" and I am in total compliance. Not that I did it, but after implementing this concept on Russ's layout, I am a firm believer. Get out the track saw and make it a nice gentle curve. You will be glad you did. Just don't call me and bust my chops.
And oh yes, it is looking good.
Frank / Erieman
Gee Frank, your busting my chops in front of the whole world. You are correct that you see some straight track. The upper track in the picture to the right that you see is only 4 ft long when it comes out of a curve into another curve. The lower one is 5 ft long but is hidden for the most part.
I don't know guy's, no straight track goes against reality.
I am with you Andy. They are short sections only, or they are hidden.
I have completed the sub road bed for the mainline track. I still have to do the sub road bed for the logging area, mining area and the sawmill. The next step for me is to lay the track for the mainline since some of it is hidden by the mining area, and the sawmill area.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516150943.jpeg)
This is where the main line leaves the upper level and returns at the lower level, or vice versa.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516150623.jpeg)
The upper mainline is on the right going to the sawmill area. I have done the sub road bed for a siding. The straight roadbed on the left will be hidden under the mine area.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516150705.jpeg)
At the top of the picture is going to be a turnout to go to the sawmill area.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516150759.jpeg)
Track returning to the lower level. Just to the right of the center, there is going to be the canyon and river and there will be 3 bridges that are going to cross it. The sawmill, village will be to the left of the canyon.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516151055.jpeg)
The upper level is where the main yard and service facilities will be located. The lower level is where the passenger station will be located and an industrial area
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516170112.jpeg)
A different view of the helix connecting the upper level with the lower level. In the center of the helix will be a small village.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-160516151159.jpeg)
The island in the lower part of the picture is where the logging will take place to furnish raw material to the sawmill. The mine will be located to the right over the returning mainline track.
Lots and lots of lumber, looking good!
Thanks Andy, now its time for some cork roadbed. I received notice that my first order for turnouts is finally going to be shipped tomorrow or Thursday.
Steve,
Your progress is looking very good, my friend. Look forward to seeing track down and switches in. Keep up the good work.
Frank / Erieman
Here are some more progress photo's of the SP RR. I have completed placing the cork roadbed on the mainline. On the mainline I used two layers of cork, 1/16" sheet cork and 3/16 Midwestern cork roadbed. The reason being that in the logging and mining portion of the RR, sidings and yards I will only use the 1/16" sheet cork. I will provide grade transitions where required to the single layer of cork by sanding the 3/16" cork.
Steve
The benchwork looks great.
Steve,
I've been meaning to ask. The lumber you used on your bench work looks really good. Where did you buy it and what grade of lumber did you get? Any information would be very helpful. BTW I really like the way you have laid out your bench work. Very organized. Thanks in advance. Phil
John,
Thanks for taking a look. You can now see what the main line will look like.
Hi Phil,
I bought the lumber from Home Depot. I had to sort out the good from the bad at the store. It is their common grade lumber. It has work fine for me. I used 3rd Plan it CAD software to draw my track plan and one that was done I drew the plan for the bench work. When it cam time for the construction, it really went fast.
I am taking a break from the layout construction and I am going to rehab the passenger station shown below. It was built from an article and plans from the 1956 December issue of Model Railroader. I built it while I was in High School or Junior College. Needless to say it has suffered over time.
It will be the station for Suphrin and the Railroad main office on the second floor for the SP RR.
I am still waiting for my turnouts that I am having built.
Thanks for your reply Steve. Phil
I have taken apart the structure into its main components, removed the roof supports which have warped over time, removed the roof, removed the windows and walkways.
I have rebuilt the roof supports for the shed and baggage room as shown.
I received 31 of the 49 switches I will need for the layout today. I had them custom built. The price was very reasonable when compared to Shinohara switches from Walters. The problem has been getting them delivered. The first batch is about 3 months late.
What was nice though was if there was only a couple of inches between turnouts, the builder added this to the turnout. He also soldered the wire to the frog
OK ... Steve...
Who made up the turnouts for you? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob,
Cream City Turnouts in Wisconsin. He uses the Fast Trak jigs and templates
Quote from: KCS Trains on May 27, 2016, 11:13:20 AM
Steve,
I've been meaning to ask. The lumber you used on your bench work looks really good. Where did you buy it and what grade of lumber did you get? Any information would be very helpful. BTW I really like the way you have laid out your bench work. Very organized. Thanks in advance. Phil
The benchwork looks so good you won't want to cover it up with scenery.
thanks John, I just hope the scenery turns out just as good.
This is an update on the progress being made on my station
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-120616204137.jpeg)
I painted the station the colors the Southern Pacific did. The window frames I drew in 3rd Plan it and had them cut with a laser. I used Wild West Models shake shingles for the roofing.
img]http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-120616204203.jpeg[/img]
This is the freight room for the depot.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-120616204300.jpeg)
Another view of the main station
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-120616204336.jpeg)
This is a temporary setup of what the station will look like.
Looking very good Steve, thanks for sharing.
Nice looking station.
Thanks Andy and jan for the nice comments.
Hi Steve:
Nice job fixing up the station.
Karl
Thanks Karl.
Progress to date on the on the station structure.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-210616183739.jpeg)
When painting castings, some of the castings I drill a hole in the base and insert a toothpick into it. You then can hold the toothpick in your hand which makes painting the casting very easy. I also take some of the casting and using double sided tape applied to a tong depressor and stick the castings to it.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-210616183635.jpeg)
Finished castings.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-210616184219.jpeg)
I built this newsstand for the station. I used 1/64 birch plywood for the structure. For the magazines and newspapers, I searched the internet for old magazine covers and newspapers. I copied them into word and reduced the size to an HO scale size magazine. Then printed on an ink jet printer. Then cut them out an glued to the news stand
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-210616184111.jpeg)
My messy work bench.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-210616183930.jpeg)
I don't know whether any of you noticed the similarity to FSM's Brownsville Station Kit. I don't know where George got the inspiration for his kit, but like I said before, I got the plans from an article in a 1956 Model Railroader magazine and originally built it back then.
Steve,
Great redo on your station. I did notice that both of George's stations have a similar look. And I have them both. I plan to redo the first one as I followed his instructions and the colors don't go with the A&S RR.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom, I was doing some research on the internet to see what George had done with his kit for some ideas. I ran across a thread of yours on another forum on your build of his kit. I noticed that you changed the color scheme. You did a nice job on it.
Nice job on the station and newsstand.
Jeff
thanks for the complement Jeff. I am waiting for some windows and doors to be cut on a laser to finish the project.
Quote from: sdrees on June 21, 2016, 07:23:56 PM
Thanks Tom, I was doing some research on the internet to see what George had done with his kit for some ideas. I ran across a thread of yours on another forum on your build of his kit. I noticed that you changed the color scheme. You did a nice job on it.
Steve,
Thank you but the newer Franklin Station was built for me by Readying Bob (Bob Butts). The official colors of the Atlantic and Southern RR are white with green trim.
Bob did a wonderful job and it has LED lighting as well.
Tom ;D
That newsstand is fantastic! :)
John
I love the news stand. George gets many of his ideas from the model railroad literature so you may have been inspired by the same article. The last time I visited the F&SM he pulled out a couple files on some of the towers he modeled on the F&SM. He keeps files on different articles which he uses for inspirations for his layout and for his kits.
Thanks John & John for your nice comments about my news stand. At least the passengers will keep busy while waiting for the next train and their trip to their destination.
The news stand does look good. I don't know if you'd actually earn the price of some printer paper by offering it, but I could see your Scale Magazines document saving detail-oriented HO modelers a considerable amount of time.
Attached are pictures of the finished station, except for the chimneys. I am still waiting for them to arrive. I can now go back to placing track on the mainline.
Great , not sufrin at all looking at these ;)
Beautiful work Steve. Thanks
I am glad you liked the pictures Jan. And Donato, thanks for the compliment.
Well done Steve..... 8)
Thanks Greg for the compliment.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-250316201303.jpeg)
Tom,
I think you have a serious beverage challenger here. Look at all the Coke that Steve has in his room. Hmmm. Just saying,
Steve,
Great photos. Looks like you are making a lot of wonderful progress. Keep up the great work.
Frank / Erieman
Well the coke has been put to good use. I borrowed it from my wife. I have been laying track now that the station is complete and I have received some of my switches. It make good weights for holding the track down.
Last week, several of the local model railroaders were over to see my progress. One made a suggestion that I add a staging yard to the layout. After some thought, it could be done by adding it under the upper lever where the yard is taking shape. I will post a sketch in couple of days after I see how well it will work
The track finally reached Suphrin today. The railroad held a golden spike ceremony at the station.
Nice rebuild on the station. Anything I modeled in high school or shortly there after ended up in a barrel. :D
Thanks for stopping by Raymo. This model was ready for the trash barrel, but I liked it so much that I decided to give it a makeover. I have other models of buildings that deserve the trash can but I can't part with them.
I haven't had many pictures to add for a while. I recently received my NCE Command Control system. So I have been trying to learn that. I have it some what installed. I have it working when tethered to the UTP panel but I am having trouble with the base radio getting to work properly. I am going to give NCE a call on Monday.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-300716211723.jpeg)
You are looking at a full size drawing of the sawmill area. I am going to start laying track in this area. Since I used 3rd Planit CAD system, I printed the drawing to a PDF printer. I then took the file to a blue Print store to get the actual prints.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-300716211533.jpeg)
I placed my dioramas for the sawmill area that I have built over the last several years on the drawing to see how they would look and fit with the track work plan. The dioramas will have to be modified slightly, but nothing major. Also the track plan looks like it is going to work OK.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-300716211633.jpeg)
Another view of the building layout.
Good to see you had your golden spike ceremony. There's an NCE yahoo group that might be able to help you solve your problems as well. Does it work intermittently, or not at all?
Jeff
Steve, that's a great looking bunch of buildings going in.
Jeff,
Thanks for taking a look and see. I attached the base station to the ceiling, which is 10' high with some metal brackets. The light fixtures suspended from the ceiling are LED lights. When I was testing the base station out and it was at table height, it worked fine. But when I installed it ton the ceiling, I was not getting the right output on the ProCab throttle. A lot of it was garbage.
Thanks for the compliment Andy. The sawmill can be seen on the following link.
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1577.0
The locomotive service building and main street are Sierra West kits and they can be found on the Sierra West site at the following links.
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/gallery-2.html
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/gallery.html
Those buildings look great, Steve. I'd suggest trying mounting the antenna under the fixture height. About 7 feet should be good. Just stick it on a 2 x 4 in the center of the layout to see if it works. Antenna mounting used to be a big issue with the "old" radio system. With the newest one, it's not "supposed" to be an issue. But we know how that works. :D
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks for your help on this. Your help is very appreciated.
Steve,
I'm just getting caught up on the thread. Fantastic job on the layout and the structures are beautiful.
If you have to drink Coke, then let it be so! :'( :'( :'(
Tom ;D
Thanks for stopping by Tom. It is my wife who drinks the diet coke. I may have just one per day at lunch. She has the feelings about Pepsi that you have about Coke.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-300716211723.jpeg)
This is the full size drawing of the sawmill area I started out with the other day.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-040816195325.jpeg)
this is the bench work to support the sawmill area.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-040816195843.jpeg)
This is the sheet of plywood that I cut out from the full size drawing where the dioramas go.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-040816195613.jpeg)
This is a picture of the dioramas in place.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-040816195531.jpeg)
Another picture of the dioramas in place. The circular cut out in the lower part of the picture is where a turntable is going.
Wow , that looks like a very solid base , great to see how you put it together.
I am glad you liked it Jan. Hope it helps you sometime in the future.
Awesome Job on the layout Steve. Progress is looking wonderful. Looking forward to seeing it in November after the meet. Like the plywood cutouts with the module inserts. Great idea. Keep posting because we love pics.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks Frank. I have a problem with the sawmill. I don't have enough clearance underneath for a train to pass. the base of the diorama is made up of 1/2" gatorboard and 1" to 1-1/2" of pink foam. As it is, I had to raise the area 1". Cannot go any higher due to grades. Oh well, something to fuss about.
Steve,
Wonderful looking structures on the wonderful looking layout. It is coming together very well. Thanks for sure for sharing.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. I hope it looks as well as yours when I get the scenery in place.
HI Steve:
That should be a really cool section of the layout when its finsihed. Very nice dioramas. I really like the one on the bottom right. Who's kit is that? Anyway keep the great photos coming.
Thanks for sharing.
Karl
Hi Karl,
Thanks for the compliment. The 3 diorama's at the bottom of the page are Sierra West Scale models and the sawmill at the top of the page is scratch built.
Quote from: sdrees on August 07, 2016, 11:27:46 PM
Thanks Tom. I hope it looks as well as yours when I get the scenery in place.
Steve,
With the scenery I see on your dioramas, you have no worries.
Tom ;D
Very nice
ger deguelle
Thanks for the compliment coming from across the pond.
Steve,
The layout is really taking shape and looks terrific so far. Wonderful job! Now pass me one of those Diet Coke's please. :D
Hi Bob,
Just for saying nice things about my layout, I will ask my wife if I can pass along one of her diet cokes to you.
Thanks for the compliment.
This set of pictures replaces those lost in the server crash.
I am starting the track sub roadbed in the logging area and mining area. I have laid out the beginning of the spline where the tracks come down from the logging operation past the mine as shown in the circled area on the sketch. The difficult part of this are the tracks coming from two different areas, one on a down slope and the other on an up slope and meeting up at the three way wye at the top of the circle. It worked out well from the plans with very little final adjustment.
Now I have to layout where the tracks come in from the mine to the 3 way wye. I can then finish the spline roadbed in this area.
Ok, I have finished the sub roadbed in the logging and mining area of the layout. I did it with the spline roadbed. The smallest radius is 18" and I did not have any of the splines beak when installing them. I did not have to soak any in water either. As I mentioned before, I used Poplar for the splines, 1/4" x 3/4". The area of the spline roadbed does not have any level areas. It is either an up grade or downgrade having to meet at the turnouts.
What helped me lay out where the risers should go, I did an as built of the joists in the 3rd Planit CAD program after I had built the initial bench work. I printed a drawing with the track plan layer and the bench work layer and then I was able to scale from the drawing where the risers should be. Also the software is capable of giving you the elevation of the track at the location of each riser. There were some minor adjustments when actually building the roadbed.
I have also attached another picture of the saw mill area to give you an idea of what the whole logging and sawmill area actually looks like.
Your benchwork looks great , I think you work very opposite to what I do, I just build some benchwork then lay some track without actually keeping to my trackplan and then search if I have structures that will fit into the scenes. If I'm not mistaken you have the trackplan with all the structures exactly where they will go, am I right?
Wonder what most people here do , make a trackplan and stick to it or kinda wing it like I do.
Hi Jan,
Your correct in that I have a plan where all the structures will go. If you look at the beginning of this post you will see my plan. But that is not to say that I am not making changes as I go along. In this area, I have it pretty well fixed in my mind that this is the way I want it. But there are other areas that I am going to change. Guys that I have had over to see the layout have told me I should have a staging area. And since it is a short line RR, I do not need the big yard that I had planned. So I am going to delete some of it and add some more switching opportunities.
I am a Civil Engineer so I need a plan. But that is not to say I can't make revisions as I go.
Steve,
I remember now you said you were going to use spline roadbed. It does look like spline and very well done at that. Fantastic job on the layout. All thumbs up from here.
Tom ;D
great work
Hi there,
Great looking benchwork. NIce work.
Regards,Chris
Thanks Tom for your nice comments on the layout. I liked the way the spline sub roadbed came out with the easements, horizontal curves and vertical curves. I would do it again in a heart beat.
Thanks Ger and Chris for you nice comments from across the pond.
Very nice work Steve! I love beautiful benchwork :)
John
Thanks for stopping by John. I appreciate your nice comment.
Hi Steve:
Looks great so far. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Thanks Karl for stopping by. Appreciate your comment.
Not much happening on the construction of the new layout recently. Waiting for turnouts for the logging, mining and sawmill area. I am going to a new source. I then am going to take a look at redesigning the upper area where the large yard was to go. Some operations friends have talked me into providing more switching opportunities and a staging track. So back to the drawing board. In the mean time, I have been learning to use the NCE power pro and JMRI computer programs. Getting to old for this new computer stuff.
Steve, I always use my yard for staging, some folks don't like it this way but it works for me and you don't need a special staging area.
thanks for your thoughts on this Andy. That was my original thought, but if I reduce the size of my yard, I can add more industries for switching. I am still thinking about this.
Steve:
I just read your entire thread. Great bench work. Have fun with it. :)
Stay cool and run steam..... 8) 8)
Thanks for the visit Bob. There has not been much building action lately. I had to change my supplier for turnouts. T he first guy was a flake. So I found a new source. I hope he turns out OK. I also have redesigned the part of the layout where the large yard was. I think now that there are more switching opportunities and more interesting track design. I will post my new design shortly. I am currently on vacationinSan Carlos, Sonora Mexico.
Steve
Your layout is coming along great. First class workmanship. I will be following along.
Thanks John. I wish it was coming along faster. Hurry up and wait. There is an division meet in November. So when I get home, I need to get ready for the associated contest.
I have revised my track plan as mentioned before.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-011016181912.jpeg)
This is the original track plan for the main yard.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-011016182020.jpeg)
This is the revised plan for the same area. It will allow more switching opportunities and provide a more interesting track plan. This will be the interchange for the Suphrin Pathetik RR and the Southern Pacific. Since this is a short line railroad, I do not need all the yard in the first drawing.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-011016182122.jpeg)
This is the revised plan with the staging area in the heavy lines. The staging area is hidden under the upper area and will be easily accessible. I am showing the staging tracks separately to cause less confusion with what I am trying to do in the old yard area. The trains will interchange on the upper area and the Southern Pacific will go down the helix and held into the staging area until time to remerge.
So even if you thought you had the best thought out plan and had drawings for it, Once you get started with construction you change your thoughts and make the appropriate changes and drawings.
Ok, I finally received the remainder of the turnouts for my railroad. This batch was custom made by Oak Hill Track and Supply.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116180912.jpeg)
Double Crossing
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116181037.jpeg)
3 Way Turnout
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116181202.jpeg)
No. 4 turnouts
Now I can get back to track work. I am prefabricating the staging area that I am adding to the layout. This is because it will be under the upper yard and industrial area. So I had a full size print of the staging track made to use as a template for the sub road bed. I took the following steps.
1) Placing Template
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116180310.jpeg)
2) Carbon Paper
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116180404.jpeg)
3) Using pin wheel to transfer template to plywood sub roadbed
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116180519.jpeg)
4) Results of use of pin wheel
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-201116180759.jpeg)
Looking good Steve. Have fun with it. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Thanks for stopping by and the encouragement Bob.
Steve,
The layout is coming along really well. I love the turnouts you had built.
Carbon paper, who would have thunk (sic) it.
Great job.
Tom ;D
Glad to see you are on the move again Steve.
Steve,
Fantastic work, really great and actually very entertaining and informative build. Keep working/inspiring. I'm all eyes! Thanx Thom...
I love watching others building a working layout. Keep it going.
Marty
Hi Tom,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes you can still find carbon paper in the stationary stores. Some of us still know there is such a thing.
Hi Andy,
Glad to be able to continue laying track. Glad you are following along.
Hi Thom,
Glad I can be entertaining and informative. I am happy to be laying track again.
Glad you like following along Marty.
I cut out the sub roadbed for the staging track and I have tried place it where it is to go under the upper deck.
Nice progress Steve. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
So this is the prefabbed staging yard. I have installed the track, roadbed, switches that are going to be hidden and the feeder wires.
The tricky thing is going to tie the two ends to the existing main line.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for taking a look at my progress. I have a lot of track work to do now.
I don't comment much, but I'm enjoying this thread. It's a benchwork clinic. Nice work!
John
Hi John,
Glad you like the thread. Hope it helps you and everybody else.
Attached are the pictures of the staging area in place except for the wiring which I will finish up tomorrow. Thanks to John Siekirk for the idea to prefab this. He posted on his site a while back about, prefabbing some roadbed and track inside one of his mountains.
Quote from: sdrees on December 13, 2016, 09:23:51 PM
Attached are the pictures of the staging area in place except for the wiring which I will finish up tomorrow. Thanks to John Siekirk for the idea to prefab this. He posted on his site a while back about, prefabbing some roadbed and track inside one of his nountains.
Pre-fab and then install?!! Why would you ever want to do something that smart and simple! I would rather struggle for days trying to reach and pull wire and track and not be able to see what I am doing... Just kidding of course! That is an excellent idea and looks like it make for a much more simplified installation. I have to squirrel this away for the time when I need it.
Thanks for posting your progress, very helpful.
Darryl
Hi Darryl,
It is one of those things you might not think about at the time. And then when you get done, you say to yourself, why didn't I prefab it.
Steve,
The angle of the FSM 2 stall engine house appears to be about 15 deg. See the photo below.
If you have any questions, give me a call at 407-834-2183.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-211216153315-188511991.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-211216153315-188511991.jpeg)
In my last posting, I had permanently installed the staging tracks. But when it came to do the electrical wiring I ran into problems with shorts. The fellow who made my turnouts did not do a thorough job in cutting the copper foil on the pc board ties. As you can imagine, access was a problem in trying to find what was causing the short. I finally have it all worked out tonight.
Quote from: sdrees on December 13, 2016, 09:23:51 PM
Attached are the pictures of the staging area in place except for the wiring which I will finish up tomorrow. Thanks to John Siekirk for the idea to prefab this. He posted on his site a while back about, prefabbing some roadbed and track inside one of his mountains.
Steve
I'm glad you tried it. It sure has been saving my back with my inside the mountain track work.
John,
There would not been any other way to do this in this situation. Thanks again.
I have been laying track on the upper level.
There will be a turntable and roundhouse at the top of the picture. At the bottom of the picture will be the depot.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-311216185618.jpeg)
The double crossing.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-311216185718.jpeg)
A view from the Roundhouse End.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-311216185906.jpeg)
Nothing is fastened down yet. I made templates of the switches and double crossing and taped them in place where they should go. I had an error in my plan. so there was a lot of trial and error in trying to get everything to fit. Nothing beats a good plan.
So Frank/Erieman, if you see a few kinks, they will be taken out when the track in fastened in place.
The track on the upper deck is now fastened in place. I have been using latex caulk to glue it down. The elevation of the track in the yard and industrial area is on a different elevation than the main line track. I sanded the cork roadbed under the switches on each end of the yard. At the end with the roundhouse, there are several more sidings to put in place, but I will wait until I get the turntable installed and see what industries I will place at that end.
Errors that turn up early are almost always easy to fix. Good luck with it!
Here are the latest pictures on my track laying progress. These photo's are in the mine area and the logging area. The mine will be on the left side where the two short spurs are located. The logging area will be to the far right where the logging spurs are at two different elevations.
Love your work plan Steve, wish I could do it like you, benchwork first then lay all the track and then probably you will start scenery. I don't even know what my next 2 meters of track will look like , doing one scene at a time.
Sure going to be a lot of track Steve.
Hi Jan,
I am a Civil Engineer by profession. So I need a plan before I do anything. There were changes as I went along as I had further input from friends after I started. But everybody has their own way of doing things and different interest. That is what makes this such a great hobby.
Hi Andy,
I need lots of tracks to run trains.
Impressive bench work and track work. Phil
Looking good Steve. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Thanks Bob and Phil for the nice compliments. Very much appreciated.
Steve nice job on the track work so far.
Thanks Jim
Here are some progress photo's on the track laying. The first picture is the track from the main line to the sawmill area with 3ea 24"-18" radius No. 6 Turnouts.
The second picture is the sawmill area with the main street commercial area, the engine service facilities and the sawmill. I am using No. 4 turnouts in this area. Just behind the engine service facilities will be a gallows turntable.
Steve, I really enjoy watching the progress of your layout. Great use of Sierra West kits. Phil
Hi Phil,
Thanks for stopping by. I am watching your progress on that other site. I took the Sierra West Main Street diorama and cut it on my table saw down the middle to split it up. The sawmill is a scratch built project.
Steve, I wish my bench work was as good as yours. However, it is serving me well. I really like your scratch built sawmill. Phil
This is what the track work will look like in the sawmill area. Only the switches are glued down yet. The turntable will be where the whole is located.
Hi Phil,
You bench work looks very good for your plan. You don't need anything else.
Thanks Steve. That means a lot coming from you. Phil
STeve:
The track work is coming along nicely. Reminds of the time I spent in HO scale (over 35 years before going into N scale) hand building and laying track.
Stay cool and run steam..... 8) 8)
Phil
I stopped by to check on your progress. You are moving right along - very nice work.
Thanks John. You and Steve have been my inspiration. Like you, I'm right in the middle of feeder wires, suitcase connectors, and tortoise switch machines. Phil
Attached are recent photo's of the track work in the sawmill area. I finally have the sawmill elevation where I like it. If you remember, in an earlier post I mentioned that I had a clearance problem under the sawmill. The sawmill diorama is built on 1/2" gator board and 2" to 3" pink foam. So I added a 1/2' of cork to the base of the whole sawmill area. I also used a router to cut the gator board to add another 1/2" of clearance for an overall change of 1". I built the sawmill before I had the plan for the layout. There is more short pieces of track to add to the area, but I have to wait until the buildings are in their final resting place.
You're moving right along Steve. Nice going. 8) :)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
I recently purchased the new Walthers 90' turntable. The supplier shipped me the 110' turntable by mistake so instead and I had to have them ship the 90' and then I returned the 110'.
Any way, it is all plastic as expected so I need to paint and weather it. The bridge comes with code 83 rail. I was able to unsolder the leads and am going to install code 70 rail to match that on my layout. The bridge girders are a shiny very dark gray.
Have fun putting that turntable together Steve. :) I did one in N scale years ago.
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Attached are my final photo's of the turntable. I painted the pit using a airbrush, and hand painted the rail and ties. The instructions said not to and also not to paint the gear around the perimeter of the pit, but I did anyway without any problems.
On the bridge, I painted the steel girders first with a coat of Polyscale Rust, then with Vallejo Chipping Medium, and a coat of dark grey. I then scrubbed off some of the dark grey to expose the rust. The deck I painted railroad tie brown. I then used some pastels to add more weathering.
To the pit floor, I applied and Alcohol India ink solution. I applied some pastels to the pit walls. Still have some more to do.
The turntable weathering looks great Steve. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Very nicely done.
Looking very good and realistic.
Coming along nicely Steve. keep up great build.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks for the nice remarks and encouragement Bob, curt, Jan and Frank.
Steve,
Great job on the turntable and weathering.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. Appreciate the comment.
Steve,
Great progress on the layout. How much is now running? Oops, I forgot, you probably are waitng for the switch machines, Keep posting.
Frank / Erieman
Steve.....that "nasty" turntable & pit will look great in the scene when it is finished. 8)
Hi Greg,
Glad you liked the grungy turntable. Thanks for you nice comment.
Turntables are SUPPOSED to be grungy...!!
I know, the more grunge the better
The track work is 98% complete on the SP Railroad. There are a couple of spurs that still need to be installed when I know which structures are going in. Attached are recent photo's of the nearly completed track.
Great looking benchwork Steve, can't wait to see your scenery work once you've had your Golden Spike ceremony.
Very nicely done.
Very nice track work Steve. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Thanks Jan, Curt and Bob for stopping by, Enjoy your comments.
Nice clean job Steve.
You do NICE work steve!!
Andy and Donato,
I appreciate your nice comments.
I am making progress on my layout this week. My sister and her husband is visiting us for the week and she is an artist. So she is painting my backdrop this week.
Wow! She IS an artist! That's going to look fantastic when you get the scenery in.
Jeff
Having an artist in the family can be very handy for a model railroader (I often drag my wife downstairs and ask her to mix up some paint to match a color I already have.)
dave
That looks fantastic. You are lucky to have an artist in the family.
Wow Steve. It must be nice to have a great artist in the family. It really looks good.
Phil
It is great to have the artist in the family. To bad she lives in Sacramento. She will probably have to come back and finish it sometime in the future. Her husband offered to send her back so he could have a vacation. It is turning out very nicely. I will post pictures later on this week of the progress made so far.
Hi Steve:
She's doing a wonderful job. I really like it.
Karl
My sister has completed this portion of the backdrop.
thanks Karl, I pass you comments along to her.
She is doing a great job.
Steve,
wow!!! what an fantastic painted backdrop. Nice nice talent to be able to paint like that. Thanx Thom...
Steve,
I'm with everyone else on this, that backdrop painting is just beautiful.
Steve
The backdrop looks great!
I will pass the ovations on to her. Thanks Curt, Thom, Jerry and John.
Steve,
Add my name to the passing on list. She is very talented and the backdrop looks very natural.
Tom ;D
After spending several months on constructing the Shelby's Marine Service diorama, it is time to get back to the layout construction and the installation of Tortoise Switch Machines. I made the decision to use Tortoise machines on all my switches and no hand throw machines because I did not want to reach over anything on the layout to throw a switch and every switch would have a toggle switch on a control panel so everything is consistent about controlling switches and not have some this way and some that way etc. It make things to confusing for operations.
So here we go on my method for installing the Tortoise machines.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220647.jpeg)
Before the switch was installed on the layout, a 1/4" hole was drilled through the roadbed for the spring wire.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220225.jpeg)
I then drilled 1/16" holes through the table top at the each end of the throw bar so I could line up a template underneath the table top.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220304.jpeg)
I then connected the line between the two holes locating the throw bar above. I then used this line to locate where a template should be pasted in place in relation to the throw bar and the hole for the spring wire.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220345.jpeg)
I then slipped the machine in place and held it with a pair of pliers clinching the spring wire while I drilled holes underneath to hold the switch machine in place and secure it.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220731.jpeg)
At my work bench, I assembled the wires to an edge connector. The orange and brown wires on the outside of the connector are for the toggle switches. The red and white wires goes to the tracks and the black wire to the frog. I installed T-Taps on the ends of the wires here so I would not have to do any overhead soldering. I installed Quick Slide Connectors on the installed wires under the table.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917220835.jpeg)
This is the completed installation of a Tortoise Switch machine on my layout. Only 49 more to go.
Your layout is really coming along nicely Steve. The backdrop your sister drew is beautiful and really works with the layout.
Steve,
I'm sure it feels good to get back to the layout. Everything we do on the layout goes to the big picture of getting it finished.
Nice easy way to install the Tortoise with no soldering.
Tom ;D
Clever way to install the tortii. I'm stealing that for sure. 8)
Jeff
Great ingenuity with the the tortoises. I feel your pain having 49 more to do.
Steve,
Nice job. Where did you get the drilling template? Did this come with the Tortoise? Did you make it? That is a sweet idea. Have not seen that before. Inquiring minds want to know.
Frank / Erieman
The template comes with each switch machine, or you can copy it and cut it out. I believe it was two years ago there was a clinic on the installation of tortoise switch at the Arizona Division meeting in Tucson. This was his method for installing them. This really made it easy. There is some soldering Tom, but it is done at the work bench when the leads are soldered to the edge connector. But you do not have to do any soldering overhead under the layout if you use the connectors shown. This is my least favorite part of building the railroad.
Quote from: sdrees on September 24, 2017, 09:29:00 PM
The template comes with each switch machine, or you can copy it and cut it out. I believe it was two years ago there was a clinic on the installation of tortoise switch at the Arizona Division meeting in Tucson. This was his method for installing them. This really made it easy. There is some soldering Tom, but it is done at the work bench when the leads are soldered to the edge connector. But you do not have to do any soldering overhead under the layout if you use the connectors shown. This is my least favorite part of building the railroad.
The template must be something new. I have boxes of 10 and nothing like this is included. Could you make me a copy? Ill pick it up in November. Thanks. Got all your switch machines in yet?
Frank / Erieman
Steve,
Thanks for the email of the mounting pattern. I still have several more tortoise machines to install and this is great. Thanks again.
Frank / Erieman
Steve, is the throwbar for the turnout plastic? Are the rails simply glued to it?
Jeff
Hi Steve:
Looks like fun. Better you than me. Nice work.
Karl
The throw bar is not plastic, it some kind of fiberglass board material. The rails are not glued to it,
but the guy who made the switches cut the bottom flanges at the end of the points, bent them down and inserted them in the throw bar so there is some swivel in them.
Hey Karl, you can come to Arizona this winter when you are deep in snow and freezing your but off and help me with the switch machines.
Frank, your welcome,
Sounds like a great deal Karl! :o
There are a couple of things that I want to add to my installation of Tortoise Machines.
To help line up the template and draw the line where the tie bar is located, I inserted a drill at each end of the tie bar after the holes were drilled, I lined up a straight edge with the drills and drew my line.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917142807.jpeg)
For the spring wire, I went to a .037 wire as recommended by Fast Tracks. I gives a little more tension to throw the points.
I had a couple of areas where a support was in the way for a standard installation, so this is what I did.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917221039.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-230917221227.jpeg)
Great solution , thanks for sharing.
Now to my Control Panel,
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917142412.jpeg)
For a control panel I used a picture frame that I bought from Michaels. I built a box and used small hinges to attach the frame to the box. I drew the track diagram with 3rd Planit and mounted it to the glass with double sided scotch tape.
This diagram is a temporary one, and I plan to redo it to make it better looking.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917141851.jpeg)
I am using the Barrett Hill Green over Green Touch Toggles. I attached the touch toggles to the back of the track diagram with a 3M double-sided sheet of adhesive. I cut the adhesive sheet into 3/4" squares to attach the toggles. The product number is 3M 9474LE (300LSE). You can get it on Amazon. I tried the double sided scotch tape and transfer tape and they do not work. This seems to work very well.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917141954.jpeg)
The base units were mounted on the back of the box and the tough toggles plug into it on the bottom. I then ran 20 gage wires to each switch machine. They were fastened to the edge connector, one on each end.
This was a very simple installation and went fairly fast.
Here are a couple of more pictures.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917142056.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917142153.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-280917142322.jpeg)
I have completed the installation 27 switch machines out of 50 needed for the layout. I completed three machines today with the tortoise remote mount. This solved my clearance problem where the main yard is directly above the staging yard.
The procedure is started by inserting a 1/16" brass tube through the roadbed and base.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223245.jpeg)
Next, the throw bar is measured and fitted.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223329.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223545.jpeg)
The throw bar is bent at 90 degrees on the underside of the layout and the actuator lever arm is fitted over it.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223638.jpeg)
And the mounting plate is installed
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223748.jpeg)
The switch machine is mounted to its base plate and the drive mechanism installed.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223843.jpeg)
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017223925.jpeg)
This assembly is mounted where there is sufficient clearance and a wire is installed in a Teflon tube connected to the drive mechanism arm and the actuator lever arm. It is the faint line running in the picture.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-161017224037.jpeg)
Steve,
Just getting caught up on your thread. You've been very busy and it looks great. I love the close up of the turnouts and thanks for posting the process of the turnout controls.
Well done.
Tom ;D
Very informative and instructional....thank you!!
Thanks, I am glad I could be helpful to you guys.
Steve
Great update to your thread. I invested in the Barrett Hill switches for my control panels and seeing your installation will really help when I start installing mine. Your layout is really coming along nicely.
Lots of great information Steve. Thanks for all of the in-process pics and how-to.
Here are some more pictures of one of my control panels. For a non electrician, this is the only way to go.
Looks great and simpler than using DPDT switches and the associated million wires.
Just an update on what is going on with the layout. After I installed the first 25 switch machines
I had a problem with a short in one of my power district. I couldn't find it for about a week. Well, today, I found it and what it was several pc board ties on a switch where the copper foil was not cut. What was really baffling, was that I had been running trains over this switch before the I had installed any switch machine. So a few more electrical items to take care of before an open house this Saturday.
Also my sister was here last week. She did some more work on the backdrop. So it is coming along nicely. No pictures yet, as the area she is painting now is still a work in progress.
Nice work!
Hi Steve:
Looks like you are having lots of fun. I'd be lost with all that electronic work.
Karl
Karl,
I am also lost with all that electronic work. That's is why I am having a lot of frustration. Just ask my wife, she can here my cussing in the house while I am in the garage working on the railroad.
Sorry I don't have a bunch of pictures to post, unless you like switch machines and wiring. I have completed the installation of about 40 tortoise switch machines and 3 control panels and an auto reverser for a double crossing and I don't know how many feet of wire. I still have 10 switch machines to go and one control panel at the sawmill area. Can't complain tonight and there are no shorts. Everything works perfect.
I have been finishing the track work in the sawmill area. In order to achieve this, I had to permanently install several of my Sierra West Scale project dioramas which contain track. The Main Street and the Loco Service Facility. I have been installing the switch machines, bus wire and the feeder wires.
The dios look good on the layout Steve..... 8)
They look very nice with the laid track.
Thanks Greg and Curt for you compliment. I should finish up the major electrical portion of layout in several weeks. That will be a relief.
Steve
That is going to be a great looking scene. Your builds are going to look even better with scenery around them. Fantastic work!
Quote from: S&S RR on December 28, 2017, 01:33:44 PM
Steve
That is going to be a great looking scene. Your builds are going to look even better with scenery around them. Fantastic work!
Yes indeed, but your pictures are too small to appreciate all your effort on this 2 dio...
Eric QUebec city
Eric, c lick on the picture and it will get larger. Thanks for you comments everyone.
Quote from: sdrees on December 28, 2017, 10:05:34 PM
Eric, c lick on the picture and it will get larger. Thanks for you comments everyone.
Yes I Know :) I was talking about this picture size :)
Eric QUebec city
Here are another couple of pictures of the sawmill area. I just finished the electrical work in this area and the installation of the tortoise switch machines and also the control panel. This is the end of the major electrical work for the layout. Now it is time to build more structures and scenery and get the backdrop finished.
Looks very interesting.
Steve,
Don't know how I missed the last update but WOW. It looks fantastic my friend. The structures are blue ribbon and the placement just seems natural.
Very well done sir.
Tom ;D
Looking GOOD Steve...!!
Thanks for the nice comments. This afternoon I spent my time running a train to check out how the train went across the switches and what may cause derailments. So I had to do some tweeking of some of the switches and I have some more to check.
Steve,
Man! what an incredible build thread brother. I'm invested in your pictorial progressing with lots of really cool tricks and techniques here. Keep building and filming brother. I'm getting another bowl of popcorn for the next series of posts. Thanx Thom...
Thanks Tom for your interest in my thread. Since I completed the installation of the switches and the electrical, I have been going thru my rolling stock from 50 years ago adding weight to some of the cars, replacing couplers, some of the cars had the old NMRA style couplers, checking trucks, etc and working out the kinks in the layout. No interesting pictures to show at this time.
Just came across your layout Steve, nice job and especially nice work on the SW builds.
Thanks Lynn, I haven't been actually working on the layout recently, but have been working on a number of small railroad related odds and end projects.
Steve that's typical to be not necessarily be working on one thing, I bounce around quite a bit, right now I'm working through a kit.
These cars are my latest projects. They are Ambroid 1 of 5000 kits from the 1960's. I started them back then, but I could never make the bands on the tanks look right. Back then they provided wire for the bands and the could never be spaced properly and they also showed the kinks.
I pulled them out of the stash a couple of weeks ago and I tried using wire again, but I had the same issues. I then went to the fishing tackle store and bought some trilene fishing line. So that seemed to work fairly well.
Steve, Well done my friend.
ed
Those look fantastic, great job , love the subtle weathering.
Thanks Ed and Jan for your compliments.
I am working on building a switch and a crossing with the Fast Track jigs. It is a requirement for your Civil Engineer certificate part of the NMRA Achievement Program.
The pickle car came out well. What glue did you use to secure the Trilene? It seems to be some kind of fluorocarbon plastic, which makes me think of Teflon....
Those are two great looking pieces of rolling stock.
Jeff
Your cars came out great, I bet they have some weight to them.
James, I used CV glue to glue the trilene to the tank along with an accelerator would. I only glued the trilene on the bottom of the tank. What I did was drill a #78 hole 1/8" long at the bottom of the tank for each band. I then stuck one end of the line in the hole and glued it with the CA. I then wrapped the line around the tank, pulled it tight and glued it to the beginning of the line with CA and accelerator.
Thanks Lynn and Jeff for your comments.
Steve,
I love to see cars built from kits. I'm on board with the others. Those cars came out great!
I flipped through this, particularly looking at your spline construction. Very helpful text and photos! One question: How did you handle turnouts in the spline parts of the layout? Do you insert a plywood switch template and 'cut it into' the spline, or do you build the Y with the splines? And does that impact your switch machine mounting?
Thanks in advance!
dave
Dave,
Take a look at this picture and see whether it answers your question or not. What are you making your splines out of? I did not have any problem mounting Tortoise switch machines. I mounted them on the underside of the junction of the splines. I might of glued sort sections of spline material to the main spline to widen them out. I also might have used a template to check whether the spline junction fit the turnout I was installing. If you want me to take some more pictures to explain what i did, I will be happy to.
That picture helps a lot, thanks! I think I'm going to do a test section first, I'm strongly leaning towards servo switch machines.
dave
Hey Steve:
Very nice work.
Karl
Looking at the picture it looks like you treat the spline just like we treat our 3/4 plywood for switches. Looks good.
Looking good Steve..... 8)
Started building another Sierra West kit, the Donkey Repair Yard, for the sawmill area on my layout
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518222527.jpeg)
Makeup of the kit
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518222651.jpeg)
The Donkey Repair Yard will go here
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518222741.jpeg)
Resin Castings prepared for painting by using double sided tape and tongue depressors. They are primed with a tan Krylon paint before various acrylic paints are applied.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518222957.jpeg)
Timbers for Donkey Sleds
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223136.jpeg)
Barrels etc are prepared by drilling a hole in its base, sticking a tooth pick in it and into a foam base, primed and then painted with acrylic paints.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223712.jpeg)
Various metal castings were dipped in Jax and then painted with acrylic paints.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223637.jpeg)
Donkey under repair.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223258.jpeg)
Another Donkey under repair.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223343.jpeg)
A Box Car used for a storage shed. The car is a resin casting, it was primed with a grey paint, thena grey powder pastel was brushed onto the surface, then an acrylic red paint was applied. Once dry, a wire brush was used to scratch the surface to expose the grey.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223416.jpeg)
A storage shed with board on board construction
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223445.jpeg)
An open storage shed
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/245-140518223518.jpeg)
These will be assembeld on a piece of gatorboard to form the diorama and place in the cork cutout on the layout
Great start Steve, I will be following.
Steve,
The layout is looking very impressive along with your award winning structures. Love it all.
Of course I'm following along on the new build as well.
Tom ;D
I have this kit in the line-up to do.....looking forward to seeing how yours comes together. :)
Great job so far. I look forward to seeing the rest.
I appreciate every bodies nice comments on my project.
Thank you
Here are the final photo's of the Donkey Repair Yard.
And several more photo's
This is my new project to provide housing for the workers at the sawmill. I can't believe it is plastic.
Very nicely done Steve.
Awesome Steve , and very inspirational, thank you.
Great job on the Donkey Repair Yard, Steve. The overall area will look spectacular when you get all the scenery finished.
Jeff
Good job on the donkey yard Steve..... 8)
I appreciate all the encouraging comments from everybody.
Here is a update on my latest progress. I am building the Sierra West Logging and Tractor Repair Shed. It will take up this space At the Starr Creek Sawmill. Heavy logging equipment and trucks will be repaired here. Any logging railroad equipment will be repaired at the Locomotive Service Facilities. i
Now for some close up photo's of current progress.
Going to be a great scene Steve.
Steve
It looks great so far - and the spot you have picked for it will show it off nicely.
Thanks Jan and John.
John, I ordered surface mount Nano LED's with the wires soldered to them from Evans Design for this project. So this will be my first for installing lights in my projects. I am then going back to some of my previous projects and see if I am able to install lights in them. There is so much interior detail in them that you cannot see it.
Attached are progress photo's on the logging and tractor repair shed. Instead of a railroad car repair shed, I am using the repair shed for repairing logging trucks. The logging trucks are some Sylvan Models.
Great interior details Steve..... 8)
Awesome detailing.
Thanks for your nice comments Gregory and Curt.
Wow. Awesome work.
Jeff
Steve,
Beautiful work. Absolutely fantastic in every detail.
Tom ;D
Steve,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8EMndSFFMk
Thanx Thom...
DAMN nice comments. Thanks very much.
Attached are progress photo's for the logging and tractor repair shed. I finally put lights in one of my buildings and it sure shows off the interior that I spent so much time doing , but couldn't see. I spent so much time procrastinating about the lights in previous builds. I will now go back and install lights in some of them.
I now need to finish up the outside details and place it in the layout.
Steve,
The LEDs look fantastic and the interior is wonderful. The LEDs do make the scene come alive don't they?
Really beautiful scene and master craftsmanship all the way.
Tom ;D
Steve, gorgeous model. I love the lighting and even the way they bloom in the photos. Nice effect. The wood weathering, details....everything about it is engaging.
The last pic seems a little blurry and has a lot of great detail to look at. Any chance you could reshoot and re-upload it?
Excellent modeling. The details as and lighting are top notch.
here is another photo Vince! You can see the embers in forge.
Thanks Tom and Curt for your comments.
Quote from: sdrees on July 08, 2018, 07:04:22 PM
here is another photo Vince! You can see the embers in forge.
Thanks Tom and Curt for your comments.
Thanks. Nice texturing/graining/distressing to the wood, too, I see. Great scene.
Awesome Steve, great detailing and the lighting is the finishing touch.
Thanks Jan and Vince for your kind remarks. Much appreciated.
Wow! That's super cool!
Looks great Steve! Careful, that lighting stuff is addictive. 8)
Hi Bob,
I want to go back and add lights to my other projects now. I don't need to procrastinate about it now. I made the plunge.
Thanks Also Bobby.
Here are the final photo's for the project.
Love the lighting. Great job Steve.
Jim
Very special, indeed. Thanks for sharing, Steve
Steve, your tarpaper roof work is incredible! Spot on! What medium are you using? It's the most scale look I think I have ever seen.
Also the rusted corrugated metal work is fantastic too. The layering of the two over the plank board base is wonderful!
I'm inspired and a big fan of your work.
Kimberly :)
On this particular project, I used Kleenex for the tar paper. I separated the plies and sprayed it with black paint.
Steve,
You-da-man!
Thanx Thom...
https://youtu.be/gXTlyLR1wgQ?t=1
Here is my latest project. I am waiting for some strip wood for an A-Frame turntable that is going in the sawmill area. In the meantime, I built this Jordan Erie B2 Steam Shovel.
Really nice job
Well done , looks so real.
Thanks Jan and Curt for the nice comments on the shovel.
Great looking shovel, Steve.
Jeff
Neat shovel Steve.....great work. 8)
Very nicely done shovel.
Your layout is fabulous.
Eric
Quote from: sdrees on July 17, 2018, 11:21:51 AM
On this particular project, I used Kleenex for the tar paper. I separated the plies and sprayed it with black paint.
Thanks for the info Steve. Do you make the metal roofing from scratch? It's very nicely detailed as well.
Kimberly :)
Kimberly,
The metal roofing came with the kit. There are several place that you can purchase it. Thanks for looking in!
Terrific! Lovin' it!
Cheers, Mark.
What a great thread, Steve....I looked it up after a comment you made on a question Vince posed about Gator Board....read the entire thread.....not sure if it was you or someone else but did you mention somewhere you were going to scratch build a turntable as featured in Railroad Hobbyiest Magazine?...I was fascinated by the article(s) and purchased the rotating pivot point mentioned...that's as far as I've gotten but would like to give it a try
Terry
Terry,
This thread discusses the turntable I built
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=3872.0
Here are some photo's of my backdrop I had done yesterday.
another
another
another
Nice looking backdrops.
I am taking a break from building structures and have started scenery in my sawmill area.
Great work! I love the scattered chips and splinters around a sawmill. For more reference ideas, Hangman Creek has some great debris collecting under their sawmill. This, to me, is as valuable as a structure...nicely done!
John
Steve
Looks great! I agree with John, the details and scenery around the structures is as, or more, important than the structures themselves. This is the part of modeling that I enjoy the most.
Steve,
Love the cluttered scenery and the entire sawmill area. Fantastic job sir.
Tom ;D
Beautiful modeling Steve.
Great scene Steve..... 8)
I appreciate all the nice comments. When I was looking for ideas for my scenery, I did a lot of searching on the internet and pictures of old time logging and old mills always had a lot of the debris left on the slopes along with a odd snag tree still standing. Around the mills also had a lot of debris that was pushed aside and haphazard roads and always seemed to be very dusty. So I am trying to recreate this in my layout.
John, what is Hangman Creek?
So in the near future, I will be adding more structure to the area that I have already built, details, clutter etc.
Hey Steve:
Looks just gorgeous. Great scenery and structures. Also love the background scenery.
Karl
Steve just about half way through reading about your adventure.
I'll finish up later.
But from what I see your doing a wonderful job with this rr.
Jerry
Looking spectacular, Steve!
Lots of really cool details are bringing things to life, and I think the backdrop is just great.
Cheers, Mark.
I love the scenery and detail. But I hope the vertical curve at the top of the grade to the log unloading area works well with your equipment.
Thanks James, Mark and Jerry, the grade looks worse in the picture and that is why the logging companies used geared locomotives.
Here are some pictures of how the diorama how it is incorporated into the layout.
As I said before beautiful modeling, but I really like the backdrop. It really makes it feel like you're high up in the mountains.
I agree with Curt. Beautiful job.....Dennis
Steve,
Awesome Backdrop. Really captures the imagination. And your not done yet. Simply beautiful.
Frank / Erieman
Looks really great Steve!
Great scene.
Jeff
Thanks everyone for stopping by and your encouraging comments. This part of the backdrop was painted by a Cuban political refugee who paints murals in Arizona. He did this mural in 4 hours.
Hey Steve:
Wow!!! really cool. I think that is one of the kits I built for my buddies RR.
Karl
One hell of a scene. Beautiful work.
Jerry
I have been working on the scenery in the area of the sawmill for the last several months. I more or less have this area done.
My railroad time frame is the early 1950's. So I developed this small community around the sawmill with bunk houses for the lumberjacks, housing for the supervisors, a small commercial area and various shop and out buildings to support the logging operations.
More photo's
More photo's
And more photos
And some more
and this is it
Excellent work Steve.
Beautiful work, Steve.
So much going on in a small area. Beautiful composition. A real treat.
Cheers, Mark.
Wow. Great work.
Jeff
Great scenes, Steve - superb modeling...and photography.
Top notch modeling Steve.
Excellent scene Steve.....very well done. 8)
Nice job Steve
Doug
Wow...beautiful work! Your scenery colors are very convincing and consistent...just looks "right".
John
Thanks for the encouraging comments. I appreciate them very much.
Hey Steve:
very well done. Enjoyed your photos. Very much liked the overhead one.
Karl
Thanks Karl, the comment is very much appreciated
Steve,
Looks like you are spending a lot of time in your garage.
The models that you built...thought they were photos of Mike Engler's work !!!
All said...fantastic looking railroad under construction...you should be proud.
Thanks for sharing all these updates.
Tommy
Steve,
Wow, the layout is beautiful and all it glory. Very very well done sir. All the structure are contest quality.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom and Tom Boyd, appreciate the comments. So, attached are several pictures of what is remaining
OK, I needed some skeleton logging cars for my logging operation. Over the past couple of weeks, I scratch built 4 of these cars. They are 24' long because the sawmill can only handle 24' logs.
Excellent work Steve.
Steve,
Some out standing pictures going on here! Realy incredible modeling. ;D
Thanx Thom...
Top notch! It doesn't get any better than this. :o
Great work on the log cars Steve..... 8)
Excellent Steve.
Beautiful scenes and great modelling. Well done indeed! There seems a lot more to do though which is great.
Mike
Thanks everybody for your encouraging words. Yes, there is a lot more to do.