Builders in Scale G. W. Nichols Wood - build challenge

Started by Oldguy, December 31, 2019, 10:42:06 PM

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ACL1504

Bob,

The build is coming along nicely. Looks like a fun kit to build.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Opa George

Quote from: Oldguy on January 03, 2020, 10:38:47 AM
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 03, 2020, 12:20:08 AM
Looking good, Bob.

Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these.  I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs.  You board joins look very tidy.

Cheers, Mark.
Very true.  Those are called king studs, with jack studs under the header.  My carpenters were a lazy and cheap lot and just nailed to the wall studs to save time and material.  ;D

Good looking walls, Bob. I love the extra bit of info I get on the forum here. Not being a carpenter, the extra info on real-life framing is invaluable.  As you note, there are the exceptions to modern standards--take my house for instance... ;)

--Opa George

Oldguy

Okay, where was I.  Oh, right, start assembly.  The windows - there is some play for left/right adjustment and a little up.  But absolutely no down adjustment as there is no lower trim on them.  Anyway, I got the wall penetrations installed and was doing some test fitting and notice the bow in the walls.  So I added some bracing.  One needs to figure out where the roof will eventually goes, make clearance allowances and then glue.

The addition and main building three sides are each glued and set aside to dry.  And then on to the front wall.  This consists of seven castings, an outdoor ceiling piece, two inside "counter" shelves plus the transom sections.   All this gets assembled and installed on the foundation, no floor, just foundation made up of a square piece of wood and 4x8s laid in their side.  I added a floor.  At least I got something that can be ham-handled.


So one glues on the 1/16x1/16 trim to two facade pieces.  Then add the interior angle pieces.  All this is going to sit overnight before I try to add the angled facade pieces and then the front door.  Ye gods this is going to be fun.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

NEMMRRC


Oldguy

Selected wall sections have 1/8" glue block glued on.  Then to assemble the walls, they want one to glue the adjoining wall to the block and make sure that any glue squeezings are cleaned out.  Then, one adds the 1/16" corner trim in the resulting notch.  In the future I'll add the corner trim on the non-blocked walls.  It'll make alignment just so much easier.

Once the walls have been glued together, one adds the main building's three sides to the foundation.  There is a small, unquantified, overhang of the building walls.  This pretty much requires this assembly to be done upside down.  I only glued down the back wall as I wasn't all that confident about the front wall alignment.  Once the glue had set, I placed the transom assembly in the front opening and then glued the side walls to the floor and set it aside to dry.

I did vary from the instructions as to the front door/window assembly sequence.  I added the trim pieces to the outside windows and let them sit overnight.  Then it was a matter of gluing the trim to the sides and then window to the floor and let it sit a bit.  Then it was a matter of gluing on the angled window pieces,  let them sit a bit and then add the door casting.  All this will sit overnight.  The white scribed siding is the entry ceiling and just fits to the slanted window sections and door.  Then the transom piece gets added.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Mark Dalrymple


Oldguy

#21
test.

Couldn't post last night, the system wouldn't take it.  Seems as though the forum software may not like character map embeds.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Forgot to take the camera with me to the train cave and just lazy to walk back to get it.


I debated adding the two small window ledges as one most likely cannot see them once the roof gets added.  But what the hey.  I got them in.  Same no doubt applies to staining the floor.  The office addition has also been added.  They built there office on the edge of a hill with the addition being built on stilts.  I'll admit it looks good that way.  Even if one doesn't plan on having the gully, you still have to add 2x8's to support the floor, since the main office was built on 4x8's. 


The false front gets topped by a 1x16 under a 1x18.  I'll admit I've never seen a 1x16 or a 1x18 and seems a bit weird for not much of a shadow line.  After this had dried, it was time to add the cast metal corbels.  (Boy, that paint job looks terrible close up.)


Now it was time to put the lids on these buildings.   When I cut the cards out, I put the card in the corner of a magnetic gluing jig (because I know it is a true 90 degree corner) and then cut the part out using true triangles to ensure a square piece.  For shingles, I start from the bottom at whatever overhang that I want and make a mark at 3' (the width of rolled roofing) using my dividers and then walk them up the roof. 


The rolled roofing was made from the provided newsprint that I painted black.  Then it was a matter of cutting it to 3' widths.  The roof cards were glued in place and then the tar paper roofing added.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Mark Dalrymple


ACL1504

Bob,

I agree. I've always liked the older building with the inset entrance. Reminds me of the "good old days" when the front walk was wood and worn from all the foot traffic.

Nice build.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Oldguy

Mark, Tom and George - thanks.  And Tom, I agree.  Those inset entrances always seemed to be more welcoming, like a pair of arms wrapping around you.  Good Grief.  I guess I did retain some stuff from my short stint in architectural engineering.  Back to the build.

I added the remaining roof trim and "tarring" the tar paper joints.  It is a cute little building.   Further weathering will take place later.

Next up - the lumber shed.  Big breath.  Below are the contents for the kit building.  That's a lot of sticks.  And I plan on doubling it's size length-wise. :o   I have just about every size needed in stock.  Hopefully the postal storage system will expedite my order from Mt Albert Lumber.  In any case, first up is the AI bath.  And with all that material drying, I decided t would be well worth my time to build a roof truss jig.  There are two different truss styles, but each have the same upper two pieces; the roof deck supports.  The upper truss has a set of chords sandwiched between the roof deck support pieces, while the lower truss has two lower chords; one on either side of the roof deck supports.  Just have to have to make a total of 24 of them buggers.  It was just a matter of making the best one that I could from the template, then use it to make the jig.

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Now that the wood has been stained, it was a matter of separating it all out by size.  There are close to a dozen different sizes of wood and none is color coded.  What I had to do was write down what sizes are used in each step and basically do an inventory.  I used a micrometer to find the various sizes and make a list of those.  This made quick work of separating 6" boards from 8", and so on.  One help is the instructions telling us of the various lengths used.  Once each size was determined, I placed them in a plastic sleeve marked with it's size and length.  Now I can start building.

As with the office, start with the foundation.  This is made up of 3x6 and 4x6 lumber.  This is to be distressed a bit and painted to resemble concrete.  I don't thing the 3x material would stand up to my ham handedness. A scale 6" is the critical dimension, so I'll substitute the scale 3" material with scale 8" stuff and build it out of 6x8's.   As with the office, there is no floor.  For this it makes a little more sense.  But from a scenic standpoint, the ground inside it is gong to need some "ground".  I'm thinking that I need to add some gravel.  This gives me a couple of benefits. 1) I don't have to worry about filling it in after it's completed and 2) I can add a false floor, topped by the gravel, giving it some added strength.

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

MAP

Mark

postalkarl


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