Because I usually have several projects going on at a time to keep stimulated, I thought I would open another of my yellow boxes. This is an old one- no laser cut walls here.... the window and door openings need to be "opened"..... there is a lot of stuff in this box, lots of castings.... things are organized well with all of the substructures individually bagged. The instructions call for gluing the gable end pieces to the lower wall portion, but knowing me, I'll end up getting glue on the clapboard face and that will interfere with staining. So, the first thing I will do is stain the walls and strip wood with some AI and then do the gluing..... The base for this is 16" x 23", providing room for track to run in back. Because I will butt this diorama against my mainline already in place, I think I will knock off 2 inches from the width. Will put it on a wood base....
Bob, I will be following along. Looks like a really fun kit.
--George
Bob,
Count me in on this one. I've always liked this kit and I'm looking forward to your build.
The colors that the instructions call for are Floquil Depot Buff and Floquil Olive..... I do have some old Polly Scale Depot Buff so I used that. I used craft paint Avocado for the trim. The walls got a coat on both sides with Hunterline Light Gray, then weighted down overnight. Then some thinned out Depot Buff was brushed on. Nail holes came next, then the walls were hit with my home made "light" AI..... I do my powder weathering after the structure is all together.
The trim was stained with Hunterline Creosote Black, sponge painted with the Avocado paint, then sponged painted very lightly with craftpaint tan (i.e. "Earth color"),,,
the front wall needs the gable section glued to it, then the front and rear walls need the office walls glued to them, with trim in-between. The instructions are very clear (I love FSM instructions).... as you can see, there is a lot going on with these walls,,,, the bottom sill trim and then the stone castings....
Love this kit Bob. I think it was my first FSM purchase.
Looks great Bob.
Bob,
Looking real good so far....
Loren...
Hey Bob:
Looks just great. The Depot Buff came out very nicely. Like the weathering also,.
Karl
Thanks Guys! appreciate the positive feedback...
there's a lot to the walls before I can put the structure together,,,,,
the rear support structure parts are individually bagged,,,, the only deviation that I am doing is putting some Liquitex 'stucco on the "concrete" support.... it all gets painted the Depot Buff Color,,,,,
Are you using the stucco to give the concrete some texture? Following and learning here.
That board by board construction looks really clean so far. Nicely done. I just picked this kit up myself.
Bob, the colors look really nice with your wall distressing. The stone foundation also looks great. I am enjoying this build.
--George
thanks guys, thanks George!
I'm not sure what "Paintrain" means by the board on board.... the walls are clapboard but not laser cut, so the door and window openings need to be cleaned up. ... some Board on Board modeling comes later!
There is a note in the box from George Sellios regarding shrinkage of the metal stone castings,,, there was only one of them that I noticed this on and its pretty minimal. I did have to cut some of the stone castings to fit, the instructions call for the use of a file, but I used my Chopper Tool, the metal is pretty soft....
for the stone, I primed them with Camo Khaki, then lightly colored the stones, randomly, with craft paint tan, brown, gray. After that dried I used a light wash of water-based grimy black (Micro-Mark). I will dry brush some white on them next. I used Canopy glue for the stone castings against the siding,,,,, the wall bracing comes down in back for more strength....
the large door castings are not quite wide enough to fit well behind the door openings... I need to glue some strip wood to the sides of the doors for more gluing area
So far not an overly difficult build, but definitely requires some modeling experience due to some intricacies of the build.
Bob,
Luv the stone coloring. It is spot on. Great build, as always!
Geo2rge
Quote from: Timbob60 on October 24, 2019, 11:48:56 AM
Bob,
Luv the stone coloring. It is spot on. Great build, as always!
Geo2rge
What Geo2rge said!
Bob
This is a great kit and I'm following along on your build. You are off to a great start.
Quote from: rpdylan on October 24, 2019, 06:09:13 AM
thanks guys, thanks George!
I'm not sure what "Paintrain" means by the board on board.... the walls are clapboard but not laser cut, so the door and window openings need to be cleaned up. ... some Board on Board modeling comes later!
Doh. Well the clapboard is looking pretty convincing then. hahaha.
Bob,
I love the colors on your wall. It's looking really, really good. I hope you don't mind if I steal borrow that combination for an upcoming structure.
;D ;D ;D
Thanks Bruce, but the color combination is from George Sellios's instructions! He calls for Floquil Depot Buff and Floquil Olive. I had some Polly Scale Depot Buff and used Americana "Light Avocado"...
The support structure goes together quickly as all the wood is pre-cut! The only thing that I did differently was to add some NBW detail.
The bottom piece calls for being painted a concrete color. I like using the Liquitex Stucco for this: first I stipple the Liquitex on the wood. I don't put it on thick, just dab the stuff on. Let it dry, then I use the fine side of a cheap nail file/board to smooth it out. Then paint it with a concrete color... makes a nice finish for a concrete look.
the next step in the build is board on board construction of the large lumber shed. This structure is a little over 10 inches long and there is quite a bit of framing work involved. I have lots of different stains in my collection, for variety. I'm going with this Micro-Mark stuff for this building. I'll do some dry brushing on the wood with some white/off white paint,,,, very lightly, for highlights. the siding boards need some distressing and further weathering..... I'm thinking that this part of the build is going to be the most involved of the whole kit.
Really liked the way you did the concrete.
Jerry
thanks Jerry. With the Liquitex Stucco, I find if I very, very lightly sand it, it makes a nice stucco look for HO scale (not too rough). If I sand the stuff smooth, I think it looks nice for concrete/cement.
Got the walls together on the main building, started the framing/ board on board construction for the large lumber shed
Bob,
I'm very late to the party but alas, I'm here to follow and learn a few things. I sold many of my New England style kits but this is one I kept to build.
Great start here Bob.
Tom ;D
thanks for following along Tom, and everyone else,
rainy day today so i got some bench time in,,,
board on board is a bit time consuming, almost done with the rear wall of the lumber shed, then need to build the front supports,,,,
the way I do work like this is that I put wax paper over the plans,,,,,
I've been nibbling away at things during my 3 work shifts....
there are two support framing assemblies that need to be built, and then glued in place to the main lumber shed structure. I used a small piece of wood to keep the spacing while I glued a few cross members in. To keep the same height of the cross members, I cut a piece of strip wood and used it as a spacer-,,,,
I also started to put the shingles on the warehouse roof. They are Campbell's shingles that come on a roll- a lot of guys tell me that they hate these things! I like them, they look really good in my opinion,,, the instructions say that you can "lick" the adhesive on the back of the shingle- like a postage stamp. Nope! what I do is have a small cup of water, wet my finger and drag it across the adhesive side, then attach to the roof, using tweezers to keep them straight along the line. I then put a paper towel over each row as I do them to pick up any excessive water.
Bob, that is looking really nice. The look of the board-on-board is hard to beat. You're doing a great job with it.
--George
the lumber shed is quite an involving build with all of the framing. The roof of the shed is cut from scribed siding, I used some thin black construction paper that had a misting of gray primer sprayed over it. The bays get filled with lumber and "plywood/ plaster board" that is made from paper rectangles.
All of the work that I've done on this project and all I have is these two incomplete structures sitting on the base! whew!
Great work...I've got a beautiful little "board by board" kit mocking me from across the room.
John
It looks great, Bob!
Cheers, Mark.
Very nice Bob
Thanks George, John, Mark! Appreciate the nice words--- there is a lot going on in this kit, I underestimated the amount of work with this one! Although I am enjoying the build, as I do with every FSM kit! The roof for the warehouse is pretty big and there are a lot of Campbell's Shingles to lay down-
There are two more board on board construction builds left: the machine shop and the wood cutting shed. Plus lots of castings to paint.
Looking good! You are starting to make me wish I hadn't gotten rid of my kit.
Thanks Bob and Curt!
back to the workbench after a few days of work... more board on board construction for the fourth and final structure in the kit: the cutting shed. I've been jumping back and forth on the 4 structures in order to keep things going and interesting (some framing here, some shingling there....). I've got the base constructed using 1/2 plywood with some 3/4 inch pine bracing underneath... yeah, its heavy but super sturdy.. looking forward to placing the structures and scenery,,, not so much in painting the 2 pounds of castings that came in the kit!
Hey Bob:
It's coming along quite nicely.
Karl
Bob,
I agree with all the others, very well done. a lot of work, er, I mean fun but well worth the effort.
Tom ;D
thank you so much Tom and Karl, it means a lot to me getting positive feedback from all of the great modelers here on the forum!
The cutting shed is a cool little structure that requires a bit of work. the framing is thin and fragile. the benches have to be built with strip wood, the little bench on the left is a casting that has strip wood attached for the legs. the "chop saw" casting on the right is pretty cool and goes between the two cutting benches. the roof needs all the framing done and then metal roofing over that. of course I need to detail the interior before the roof is completed to make things easier for myself!
Bob, you are doing a beautiful job on that kit. The cutting shed is fantastic.
--George
Excellent modeling.
thanks guys, I appreciate you all following along!
Ok, so this shed is a great example of why FSM kits are so great- for the shed roof I had to cut strip wood and frame it all out, even though most of it is pretty well hidden (leaving a metal panel off will show some of the framing). lesser kits would have a piece of cardboard here for the roof and then cover it with either rolled roofing or metal. this type of work really helps to advance one's skills.
I decided to use a shelf casting that I got from Rusty Rails to add to the detail in the shed. I started to add some sawdust to the floor,,,,
Hey Bob:
looking just beautiful. Love your weathering.
Karl
Very nice! What is your source for sawdust? It looks fine enough to pass for scale. I have thought about saving it when I use a razor saw on thicker cuts. But so far haven't been diligent enough.
George
Thank you so much Karl and George for following my build! Thank you for the positive feedback--
regarding weathering the boards, I know everyone has their own methods and I think that we all tend to do what has worked for us in the past. I love to have different types of wood stains and I vary the boards with various stains.. for instance, some boards I put on a couple of coats of Hunterline Gray, some I put on a coat of gray and then after that dries I put on some black. some boards get hit with that Micro-Mark Bridge and Tie stain, that looks brown on some wood and more grayish on other wood (guess it depends on the wood used when the strip wood was made). I then do the usual random application of the boards,,, however, if some of the boards are really different in color, say really brown in color, I will use these ones more sparingly so as not to create any type of "striping" in the look of the walls. I like to dry brush the boards with some white or antique white craft paint after the walls are done and this really weathers the walls nicely. I tend to save any powders until the structure is complete and I know I won't be handling it much anymore.
I've moved on to the more tedious of things: building the side porches and railings. The instructions call for the railings to be painted the trim color, but I like leaving them unpainted- to create more variation on the structure.
George, for the sawdust, I used the sawdust created with my MicroLux table saw- the blade is super fine and creates a very fine sawdust that is collected in the side catch basin. the color of the sawdust in the photo is really light (almost whitish), but it matches the wood that I put in the shed in "real life"-
Bob,
Really nice modeling on shed and main building. I've always liked this FSM kit and you are doing it more than justice!
George, I save my "sawdust" from sanding.
each and every FSM kit you build teaches you more new methods of constructing structures. Example on this one the lumber storage and cutting shed.
Before you know it , you will have so much knowledge on HOW TO's, you will scratch build easily.
Hardest part of leaving HO for O scale was switching over. I built a few FSM designs in O and they got real estate chewing up, fast
mike lynch-------madmike3434.......HAIRBALL
I'm really liking the derelict building you posted earlier.
Hey Bob:
Looks just great.
Karl
thank you to everyone that is following along! I decided to tackle the chain link fence,,,, the steel rods provided are pretty hard, used my heavy duty dykes to cut the pieces. I am not that good of a solderer so I used JB Weld (quick setting) at the joints. the stuff needs to fully cure (6 hours). my plan is to file the joints to clean them up then I will attach the fencing material. I will see if the JB Weld has worked.....
Hey Bob:
good idea I can't solder either.
Karl
well,
The JB Weld was a failure,,,, the stuff just didn't stick to the steel rod and it all came apart.... so, I guess I'm going to have to solder the joints. more to follow .....
Bob,
I've never used JB Weld but soldering isn't that hard. The wire included in many kits will work fine but I prefer to use the same size in brass. Brass is much easier to solder than the steel wire. Once you try it I think you'll be hooked on soldering.
Tom ;D
so I soldered the joints, using liquid flux and very little solder. my first time doing this type of work and I will have to try the brass rod in the future to compare the ease of soldering the material. attaching the fabric with ACC glue is a bit trying.... here is a section sprayed with gray primer.
the warehouse is not glued down yet, but this is where it goes.... I had to get it in place to determine where the track lay and for the "concrete" bases of the chain link fencing.....
A great looking model Bob!
Quote from: sdrees on November 21, 2019, 08:23:19 PM
A great looking model Bob!
Bob,
What Steve said. And then some!
Wow, yes, very nice, Bob. It looks great in position. Also good work on the chain-link fence. I haven't tried that type of fine soldering yet but yours turned out just fine.
--George
Hey Bob C:
Beautiful job on the fence. Also the building & lumber shed are just beautiful.
Karl
Great modeling Bob.
thanks guys!
This kit is deceiving in the amount of work involved! lots of bang for your buck with this one! I've been nibbling away at castings painting and getting the fencing complete....
little by little more details are added to the side "junk"yard...
The prototype has a solid chain link fence to the left of the front door, in between the warehouse and the cutting shed. I thought that I would like to have a yard entrance here, so my plan is to add a sliding chain link gate here....
Hey Bob:
Looks just beautiful.
Karl
Bob,
Very nice work.....
Loren...
thanks guys, It feels good to have my efforts liked by such great modelers as you!
the second photo is what I have in mind for the entrance gate....
Hey Bob, the model looks great and a job well done on the fence. I hope the Mod Podge isn't part of your junk pile.
Looks great. I pulled mine down and started read the instructions.
Dick
that is pretty funny Steve!
The kit is pretty fun to build Dick! The lumber shed is a kit in itself!
I have been away from the bench for a bit, but have managed to get a bit more done. The back rear section of the diorama was a bit bare, and I thought of putting another junk pile there but then the idea came to me to put a little structure there. I had crossing shanty kit from Bar Mills so I put that together, using the same wall paint as the warehouse.
It looks great Bob.
Looking great, Bob.
The shanty fits in perfectly.
Cheers, Mark.
impressive.
how did you do the rusty metal roof? that is the color metal roofs rust out this way where I live.
Jaime
It takes up a lot of real estate so it's really nice to see another one of Barnstead's completed.
Personally yours is only the third one I've see complete. George's of course resided in a few spots on the F&SM. Today only the office/store section remains. :(
The other was on Dick Elwell's Hoosac Valley RR. Yours is no slouch in comparison.
Beautiful work.
--Rich
This kit is one of my favorites. Mine has been moved and shipped a few times but still essentially intact.
Your build looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Very, very nice indeed.
thank you so much guys for all the positive feedback! I appreciate it so much,,,, except for all of you forum guys, nobody else ever sees the work! ha ha!
I still have lots of detail to add to the front yard where the sliding gate is. The diorama is pretty long, but I narrowed the base because this will butt up against the mainline on the layout, and be up at the front edge.
Jaime, the metal roofing provided in the kit is pretty thin, which was nice. I primed it with gray auto primer and let it sit for a week.... that being said, the primer still flaked off of the material on the edges after the rust paints were put on..... not happy with that...
as far as rusting goes, on top of the primer I used this Vallejo Rust set (got it at Hobby Lobby),,, just followed the directions using a sponge and dabbing the panels with the various colors..... after the roof was installed, I hit the roof with burnt sienna and (sparingly) black pastel chalks.....
Great scene Bob.....well done. 8)
Hey Bob:
Looks beautiful and I love the light weathering and colors.
Karl