Micro-Scale Models The Corner Gas and Oil

Started by Oldguy, November 24, 2019, 10:13:10 PM

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GPdemayo

Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Oldguy

Greg and Curt - thanks.
Seems I spent a lot of time adding signs that won't be seen all that much. 

While the glue was drying, I made up the gas hoses.  I used the provided wire, even though I had my mind set on using thin solder.  The wire worked out decently.
Then looking a bit ahead, I started to fiddle with the roof casting.  They provide templates, to be cut out and applied to the roof.  They thoughtfully provided lines to add the wood roofing paper.  But I am going to use 3-tab asphalt shingles that use an 1/8" spacing which is different than the provided rolled material.  It quickly became apparent that these cards are deeper than the roof.  This means that they will overhang the casting about 1/4".  That and the line spacing is a bit off between templates.  I'll figure it out on the morrow.

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

postalkarl

Hey Old Guy:

Can I make A suggestion. Here's what I do with brick walls. Fist I paint them white. Then dry-brush them with brick red. This gives you nice mortar. If the walls are just plaster just dry-brush em with the brick red.

Karl

deemery

I use a wedge shaped make-up sponge to do the brick dry-brushing.  The sponge is less likely to 'color between the bricks'.  I also use those to apply Pan Pastels.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Oldguy

I started with the dry brushing with a make up sponge.  But it didn't really take as the bricks are more rounded.  So I went over it with a heavier hand and on to plan B.  No brush was used.
The cardboard roof templates were cut out, keeping out side the lines as it is easier to remove excess material that trying to add it.  It should be noted that the templates also act as roof sheathing as they go past the cast roof edges.  I taped the two pieces that go on the front portico, matching at the peak.  A look at the underside showed an uneven reveal.  Then added an adjoining piece, but they either didn't meet at the bottom or it was short at the ridge.  The two pieces should have complimentary angles, but don't.  Then I thought I could do away with the templates.  I tried several methods of getting 1/8" spaced lines and eventually used square wood material.  But before went whole hog, I took another look at the plaster fascia and noted that they weren't all even. 

Okay, so let's try plan D.  I'll use the templates, but keep any extension past the cast edge even with the cast roof bottom.  i.e.  Place the templates in position, but will cut off any excess at the ridges and/or valleys.  The photo just shows them sitting in place, but not attached.
In between fiddling with the roof, I did manage to get the gas pumps finished.  They are rather crude.  I need to go through my jpgs to see if I have ethyl sign to add to each pump.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Opa George

Bob, it is looking really good. Nice bit of problem solving on the roof. 
--George

engine909

E-6000 great glue, piss poor packaging.
ed

Oldguy

Quote from: engine909 on December 03, 2019, 04:37:07 PM
E-6000 great glue, piss poor packaging.
ed
I am starting to like the E-6000 more and more.  Hate the strings though.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

I decided to go with plan D on the roof cards.  But first, I need to check on ensuring that the guidelines are parallel with the bottom edges.  I also added a 1/8" guideline on the undersides.  All that white is blinding and had a hard time discerning if the underside was keeping true.

So I started on the overhang, establishing the roof deck overhang in front.  Then it was a matter of working down each side, ensuring that the overhangs were even and the corners came together.  AT the ridges, there was going to be some overages.  So these were cut off with a single-edges razor blade.  It was an easy matter of keeping the blade flat on the underage side.  Once the glue set, I went over the valleys and ridges with a smear of glue to smooth out the transitions.  I'm not all that concerned with the lines not matching.  Notice that the lines aren't spaced even to begin with.
I added the folding bay doors and the frieze boards to the building

Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

On to the roof.  Fist up is creating the valley flashing.  Simple paper cut out that was painted gray. 


I decided to go with a 3-tab shingle roof for this as wood roofing wasn't all that popular in the 50's here.  So I got a bunch of packages of red from RSLaserkits for this build.  I found cutting off the strips from the narrow side first worked the best.  There are two starter rows plus a wide strip which appears to be used for ridge cap material.

One starts with the starter strip and then place the first shingle row over that.  Then just add additional rows, staggering the joints.  For the gas drive portion of the roof, I found it easier if I let the left side run somewhat wild.  The right hand of the shingle strip was cut off using a sprue cutter.  Once I had reached the ridge, I cut the left hand section off with a razor blade.   The section to the left was a bit trickier.  I hadn't established a right-hand guideline (in the valley) and didn't notice until it was too late that the distance between the two sets of shingles was too wide.  In adding these shingles, , eye ball where the left side falls, and cut either at a half shingle or a full shingle.  I did this to save material as every other row stated with a full or half shingle.  Once I got to the top, it was a simple matter of running the single-edge razor blade flat on the adjoining rood card to cut off the shingle excess.
It looks like it is going to take a couple of days to get the roof shingled and an additional couple of days to add the ridge caps.  These are applied one at a time and either cut from the provided strip or by cutting the individual shingles apart.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

deemery

I found it helps to use a thin metal ruler to push the row of shingles back into alignment if they get a bit of a dip in them while laying down a strip.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

postalkarl

Hey Dave:

The roof looks great so far. Does Don give you cap shingles with this kit? They really make a difference.

Karl

Oldguy

Quote from: deemery on December 05, 2019, 08:30:23 PM
I found it helps to use a thin metal ruler to push the row of shingles back into alignment if they get a bit of a dip in them while laying down a strip.


dave
Yep.  I use a 6" metal scale rule to adjust a row up or down.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

Oldguy

Quote from: postalkarl on December 06, 2019, 07:38:39 AM
Hey Dave:

The roof looks great so far. Does Don give you cap shingles with this kit? They really make a difference.

Karl
Not directly.  There are two strips that I used for starter rows.  A wider strip is also there that is the width of a shingle.  I'm guessing one just has to cut it to length, fold in half and apply.  When that runs out, you would have to cut the shingles off a strip.  With the shape of this roof, I'm really not looking forward to applying the ridge shingles.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

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