Spray painter gun

Started by Kipsley, November 24, 2017, 08:21:04 AM

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Kipsley

Hiyas. I'm new and still tooling up. Looking for a decent airgun sprayer for my HO scale loco and rolling stock models but have no clue as to what is good and what isn't.

If anyone could direct me in the right direction with an example or even what I should be looking for, that would be awesome. I'm in Australia so would be ordering online.

Thankies.

ReadingBob

Hi Kipsley,

Interesting question.  I expect you're going to get a lot of differing opinions on this one.  Let me give you a bit of a warning on my opinion - I use an airbrush to paint windows, doors, castings, etc. when I build a structure.  I use the airbrush for both the primer coat and the finish color coat.  Painting a solid color is relatively easy.  What I haven't advanced to is using the airbrush other applications such as weathering.  A good place to check out various types of airbrushes is Micro-Mark.

I also don't have a lot of experience (like none) spraying acrylic paints.  I primarily use Floquil enamels which are now out of production (and my supply is dwindling).  Others can likely speak to spraying acrylic's but I can't.   :)

The one I use is the Passche Talon.  It's a double-action gravity feed airbrush.  Double action means you can control the spray by pushing down on the trigger to spray the paint and pulling back on the trigger to increase the amount of paint being sprayed.  All the way forward and very little paint is being sprayed.  All the way back and a heavier coat of paint is being sprayed.  There's also an adjustable control on the end so you can prevent yourself from pulling back too far if you want to keep the spray light.  The gravity feed means the paint cup is on the top of the airbrush.  I was a bit afraid of that when I first got it.  I figured I'd be spilling paint all over the place but that hasn't been the case.  I know others prefer the kind with the bottle of paint on the bottom.

I'm not saying that the one I use is the way to go.  I've only used two kinds, a cheaper Badger with a bottle and the Passche.  Both are just fine.  I'm sure the Iwata and other brands of airbrushes are fine too.  I've just never owned anything else.

The more expensive component will likely be the source of compressed air.  For a while I used a regular air compressor, the kind used to inflate tires or power nail guns.  I finally replaced it with a hobby air compressor which makes less noise.

Whatever you decide to get one of the keys is making sure it's clean after a session.  Breaking them down and giving them a thorough cleaning afterwards is a must.  If you don't your future self won't be very happen with your present self.   :D

Good luck!     
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Janbouli

There are many good airbrushes , and a lot depends on your budget. I would recommend a Dual action so you can control paint and air flow.

Get a name brand one , Iwata, Paasche, Badger, Harder & Steenbeck  , don't go for their cheapest ones but there's also no need for the most expensive ones.

I own a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1 , it comes with 2 nozzles and needles , one for stripes and details the other for larger sprays. I got this mostly because they are easy to clean as far as an airbrush can be considered easy to clean  ;) . Not sure if this will be easy to get for you . Maybe an Iwata is the better way for you pricewise.
I love photo's, don't we all.

bparrish

My experience is with a Paascha double action.  Works well and cleans easily. 

See ya
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

deemery

#4
My $.02:  Spend the $ on a good quality compressor (I got a "Scorpion"), and then you can go with much less expensive airbrushes.  (I use a $49 eBay special from "TCP Global".)  Over the years, I have a bunch of airbrushes, Badger, Aztek, Iwata; and I think the compressor has been a better investment.  Make sure you get 2 water filters, though (one on the compressor and a second just before the brush.)

But I'm sure you'll get A Lot of different opinions on this!

edit Here's the cheap airbrush I use.  It came with a trigger rather than the more traditional index finger control.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

bparrish

Kipsley...

As Dave observed....  a compressor is a real concern.  My experience is that the diaphragm types of compressors struggle to keep up with some of the volumes necesssry to roll some acrylics.

Maybe it is just me but I run acrylics at higher volume / pressure so as to not need to thin them as much. Spraying acrylic paint is all different than distillates. You'll get on to it. 

See ya
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

Kipsley

Ok. Thanks guys. I had forgotten about the need for a compressor. :)
I've a date with Ebay.

Secondly......

Decals. I've been struggling to find any VR decals to suit my Australian Locomotives. I wrote to a Hobby Shop in Perth and was told they no longer sell them as most people these days "print their own". Eeeeeps!

I guess I will have to learn to do that also. I have a printer. Do I need a special one? And what is decal setting solution and bonder?

Sorry for all my questions.

oldbloodhound

I prefer the GREX airbrush with trigger control; much easier to use.
http://airbrush.gotcher.us/grex-airbrushes-australia/

deemery

The 'pistol' trigger is a lot easier on your hand.  I think Iwata sells a trigger adapter for their airbrushes.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

engine909

Kipsley, This combination is hard to beat.
Iwata Neo TRN2 air brush.    Trigger action.
Iwata Medea Iwis 925 Power jet Lite compresser 340.00 on EBAY. Nice svings.
I know an award winning modeler who raves about this combination.
ed

rpdylan

I only use an airbrush for weathering and painting castings,,,,I use a basic Iwata airbrush with the small compressor that Micro Mark sells.  for me it's a nice combo,,, I use the model air paints from Vallejo with no problems.  I am by no means an airbrush pro, just a basic user!
Bob C.

bparrish

Kipsley....

You don't need an elaborate compressor.  You might find one in a second hand place.  Try and find one that has a 12 to 20 liter bottle / tank.  It's about getting a sustained pressure during the entire coat of what you are spraying.


What you will need is a good regulator that goes down to one bar / atmosphere.  About 15 PSI if that helps.  Anything above that can be adjusted and will need to be set for each paint mix.  Acrylics are different than distillates. I don't know you climate at all for whether you will need a moisture separates.  My guess is no. 

See ya
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

jerryrbeach

Kipsley,

I use a little different approach than the others, though IMO, excellent advice from everyone. 

I use a small portable air tank designed for inflating tires to supply my airbrush.  I fill that from my shop compressor and hook my regulator to the tank.  This eliminates the pulsing that is common with inexpensive compressors.  And, it is much less expensive than purchasing a compressor.  I have a friend that uses the same method, but since he lacks his own air compressor, fills the tank at a gas station that has an air supply for tire inflation.  I fill my tank to about 90 PSI, and find that I can paint a couple models before I need to refill the tank.  I set my regulator at about 15 PSI for solvent based paints, 25-35 PSI for most acrylics.  HTH,

Jerry

sdrees

Unless I am doing some very fine painting requiring the airbrush, I will use a spray can.  The cans now a days have very fine spray.  An airbrush is very time consuming keeping it clean.
Steve Drees
SP RR

jbvb

If budget is an issue, the bottom-of-the-line Badger atomizer (blue plastic molding with glass bottle screwed into the bottom) will produce a decent smooth coat.  More sophisticated air brushes can do weathering and shading too.  I've used a single-action Paasche model H for about 20 years now, for base coats and weathering.  A double-action would be better for art, but I've never learned the relevant techniques.

When I bought my setup, I had kids at home, so noise in evenings was to be avoided.  I bought a regulator (like Jerry and Bob mention) and a cylinder of high pressure Nitrogen.  I get a refill (swap cylinders) once or twice a year at the local welding supply business.

Note that acrylic (water-base) paints need more air pressure, thinner coats and thorough cleaning immediately you're done painting.  Solvent paints are more forgiving, but need a spray booth for indoor use.
James

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