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Messages - mark dalrymple

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1
Kit Building / Re: 2020 build challenge - wharf and cannery
« on: September 20, 2020, 04:17:33 AM »
Hi guys.

Thanks Greg and Karl - much appreciated.

Well the tower is well underway.

Photo 1 - shows an unlikely place to find a small door.

Photo 2 - shows the slot chiseled into the front shaft door.

Photo 3 - shows the door glued into position and painted unbleached titanium.  I added 4x2" trim to the outside of the shaft as bracing.

Photo 4 - shows the new scratch-built doors for the open aerial walkway. Door handles and a plastic flap door within the door where the conveyor belts carrying the fish will pass are still to be added.

Photos 5 and 6 show the tower from the front and on the angle.

I decided to do away with the small shed (although I may build it and use it elsewhere).  I still have two diagonal braces to add, as well as roofing material and a few other details.  There is also a bit of work to do re the siting, which will probably involve taking the model out to the barn, putting it in position on the layout and taking some measurements.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

2
Looking good, John. 

The shingles on G. Willikers look really good.

Cheers, Mark.

3
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: Layout Edging
« on: September 16, 2020, 02:53:23 AM »
OK.  Maybe where the confusion lies is around the fact that most modelers that have terrain with lots of ups and downs don't build a table top.  Instead they use L-girder or T-girder.  In this way it is easy to attach rises to the sides of the L-girders and then attach the track bed to that.  That leaves the L-girder lower by whatever height you decided to build it.  Terrain can then be built on top of that in a number of different ways - mesh and plaster or foam, stacked polystyrene etc.  For the city part of my layout I did build a table top on top of my L-girder.  I then stacked polystyrene and ceiling tiles to gain height for my track level and continued stacking polystyrene higher towards the backdrop.  The table top is my water base, the lower stack is my track and the hills rise from there back.  I cut wedges of polystyrene for roads and cut these wedges into about 2" sections.  In this way I can create curved graded road bases.  I build up my building sites with flat stacks of polystyrene.  Natural terrain can then be added with an expanding foam gun.  My layout thread goes through a lot of this in detail (link in my last post).  For the mountain section there will be no table top areas - perhaps with the exception of the lime works and the ore/ coal wharf.

If you have built a table top and laid track on top of that, creating downward terrain will be difficult and will require cutting of baseboard and framing - and probably rebuilding and redesigning some of this.  It is not impossible  but can be both messy and dangerous to the health of any models that can't be moved.

Cheers, Mark.

4
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: Layout Edging
« on: September 15, 2020, 09:31:03 PM »
Hi Dennis.

I'm still a bit confused about what you are asking...but, below is a link to my Shadowlands and Tellynott build.  On page two is me doing work on framing for my fascia - mainly above the layout, but the last two photos show how I built framing to fasten my fascia to - both above and below the bench - to hide my hidden sidings.  I use 2"x1" timber, screwed and glued.

http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4484.15

Hope this helps - and if I'm on the wrong track, not much has changed!

Cheers, Mark.

5
Kit Building / Re: Murr Maybury Grist mill question
« on: September 15, 2020, 03:18:23 PM »
We have vary limited shingles here in New Zealand, but I have put them on a gable end.

I remember them being about half as wide as they were long at widest, but the width varied significantly between shingles.  Looking at the roof in your picture, and where you can see adjacent 'curls', this seems about right.

Cheers, Mark.

6
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: Layout Edging
« on: September 15, 2020, 03:09:24 PM »
And if you're talking about the fascia...

Screw it into position (or clamp if possible), mark the undulations on the fascia with a pencil, unscrew and put it on a couple of saw horses (or better still on a large scrap piece of 60mm polystyrene or thicker on flat ground - thicker than the jig saw blade), and cut it with a jig saw.  Sand and reinstall using glue and screws or nails.  If using MDF it doesn't really matter which side you saw from, but if using 3-ply you really want to mark and cut the face, as the backside will chip.  Best to test on your chosen timber.  Jig saws come in some fairly budget models, but one of these should be fine for this sort of work.  They also work well for cutting curves in polystyrene - although the mess is impressive.  DON'T work in socks!  You'll walk it through the entire house!

Cheers, Mark.

7
Kit Building / Re: Build 004: FSM 160 Logging Repair Shed
« on: September 14, 2020, 02:32:14 PM »
Nice work so far, PT.

Looks like you'll have lots of fun.  I agree - it might be fun to add some elevation changes to your list of goals.

Cheers, Mark.

8
Kit Building / Re: Campbell Scale Models Grain Elevator
« on: September 14, 2020, 02:22:52 PM »
I'll be watching your progress with this one, Bob.

Cheers, Mark.

9
Kit Building / Re: 2020 build challenge - wharf and cannery
« on: September 13, 2020, 04:09:17 PM »
Hi guys.

Well - I've drawn up some plans for the fish elevator tower.  Thanks again for all the photos and information provided earlier in this thread.  I've kind of spliced ideas together to make something that works for my project.  It was hard to make out some of the finer details of the towers, but there appears to be a shaft, which typically seems not central.  I assume the fish are ladled through an open hatch at the bottom of this shaft and a belt system something like water wheel transports the fish vertically up the shaft where I guess they could be sorted and put onto horizontal belts to transport them to the canneries.  My design calls for two such horizontal belts, one transporting fish along the open walkway to the cannery being modeled at present, and one at right angles which will transverse the four yard tracks to a cannery towards the back of the layout.  This second belt system will be in an enclosed walkway which will double as a disguise for a mirror doubling the appearance of the yard - much like Great Divide on the G&D.  There also appears to be a small shed at the bottom of some of the shafts, which I will also model.

I was intending to build the model from weathered wood, unpainted, but as I used both sugar pine and basswood for stripwood (due to not having the sizes I needed in one or the other) I found they took the stain very differently.  So I changed my mind and will paint them.  Colours will be unbleached titanium for the trim, mud for the tower, oxide red for the covered walkway (and perhaps the shaft - otherwise mud) and big sky blue for the doors.

Photo 1 - shows two elevations of the tower.

Photo 2 - shows where I am with the tower build.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

10
Night (or early morning) scene looks great, John.

And you can see the hay in the cows mouth and the cow pat!  I must say that cow pat has a bit better slump than the ones I see around here - perhaps its the diet?

Cheers, Mark.

11
Kit Building / Re: Sierra West Deer Creek Mine
« on: September 11, 2020, 03:14:00 PM »
Looks great, Karl.

They are full rafters, not tails.  I would also add rafter tails where the supporting gable walls are positioned, flush with the framing behind the cladding (including the gap in the lower row) and fly rafters attached to the underside of the purlins at their very extremities (not attached to the side of the wall) to support the roof.  This is how we always did it in the prototype. 

There are various ways of attaching the fly rafters in the prototype, but when the gable soffit is two foot wide or more it is common to have the top plate of the gable wall in line with the bottom of the rafters.  Outrigers are then attached to the side of the first rafter in and run at 90-degrees across the gable top plate and protrude by the width of the soffit minus the thickness of the fly rafter which is attached to the ends of the outrigers.  Dwangs are then cut and fitted down the rake of the gable wall to stop the outriggers twisting, and rafter tails are attached to the bottom outrigger, with the end of the gable wall top plate supporting them and stopping them droop.

Cheers, Mark.

12
Kit Building / Re: Laserkit Dabler Mill & Supply
« on: September 10, 2020, 03:20:39 PM »
Looks great, Bob.

Interesting from all angles and a real eye catcher.  It must be one of the biggest kits out there.   Looking forward to watching you plant it on your diorama.

Cheers, Mark.

13
Terrific, John!

Cheers, Mark.

14
Kit Building / Re: Laserkit Dabler Mill & Supply
« on: September 09, 2020, 03:00:34 PM »
Beautiful, Bob.

Those little 'feet' to hide any discrepancies in the rooftop legs are a good idea.

Cheers, Mark.

15
Scratchbuilding / Re: Penn Mechanical Scratchbuild
« on: September 09, 2020, 02:45:44 AM »
Looks great, Steve!

I'm sure George will be pleased to see his kit walls being used as a catalyst for your imagination.  Layout looks fantastic too!

Cheers, Mark.

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