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1
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: A canopy glue question
« on: April 01, 2020, 03:43:12 PM »
I wonder if the 1 year life is from the time you cut open the bottle.  I know I've opened bottles more than a year old and had no problems.   I do give the bottle a good shake if its been siting a while as it seems to settle and leave a very thin layer on top.   

I still feel like they changed something in the formulation when they changed the labels.  It just seems different. 

<shrug>


2
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: A canopy glue question
« on: April 01, 2020, 12:14:34 AM »
Dennis, did you actually receive red label Pacer?   The listing I ordered my last batch from showed red label but shipped green label zap.


3
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / A canopy glue question
« on: March 24, 2020, 06:26:08 PM »
I have used Pacer Formula '560' canopy glue in the red and white bottle for some time and been very happy with it.   A while back I went to a local R/C shop to get more glue and was sold a green labeled bottle of Zap brand canopy glue with the assurance that it was the "same thing".  My experience though was that the Zap labeled product had less tac and a different working feel than the red labeled Pacer product.

Today I received an order for Pacer canopy glue and was sent Zap.  I was not happy.

When I go to the website listed on the packaging (zapadhesives.com) the only item listed for canopy glue is the red labeled Pacer product.  The green label product isn't even on the site.


Does anyone know what is going on with this product and why I might be seeing a difference in them?  I've seen the difference in several bottles of the green Zap product so I don't think it was just a bad bottle.

Thanks




4
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: February 18, 2020, 10:20:21 PM »
I started a new gig mid December and my modeling time diminished, but not as much as my posting time.  That said, there has been progress.

I dealt with the corners of the building by filling them with a nice helping of vines.





I attached the access shed and vents to the roof and then finished it off with a layer of sanded grout.  I applied the grout over a layer of white glue and then flooded it with thinned white glue to ensure it was bonded thoroughly.




I made a base for the building so that the loading docks could be attached.  The supports for the loading docks were remade as well and they got a bit more stain to weather them.   The water tank is from an old Magnuson kit and the vents on the sides of the building are cut from heavy paper and painted with acrylics.







The base was primed in black to seal the wood from moister.   I'll need to give the top a "dirt" coat before adding scenery.

Cheers.


 

5
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: December 02, 2019, 08:54:09 PM »
I finished attaching the odd legs on the odd platforms.    I also finished assembling the roof access structure.  Its is made from card and the custom windows.




I also designed and cut a new stencil and painted a sign on the station end of the building.  This kind of sign looks so much nicer painted directly on the wall.




I'm still debating an addition on that left angled section that looks more like an office entrance and would cover the two doors.   

Cheers.


6
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: November 26, 2019, 03:06:19 PM »
Mark

You know, I know better.   I'm not sure what I was thinking when I started the legs.  Designing shouldn't be done when you're tired I guess.

Thanks


7
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: November 26, 2019, 09:47:09 AM »
I made a little progress on the loading docks.   This is all a bit tedious but I don't know a faster way.  I wouldn't be surprised if there is one though.




On the subject of the cutting machines, my first was a Brother Scan N Cut that I got for free when a relative bought a new machine.  It can handle lighter card and stencil film with no problem.  In fact, the stencils for the Leroy's Grill build were cut on that machine.  The scan N cut is interesting because you can feed it a printed image and it will translate that into a cutting design so you don't have to design in software.  It can be a bit fiddly though. The image needs to have very smooth edges or it will pick up "jitter". 

All of these machines have some kind of design software, usually online, that will let you make designs.  In my experience they have a limited font selection but for basic signs they can do a nice job.

If you're interested in one ask around your friends and family.  Someone may be getting a new machine this holiday season and have an old one they would give away or sell cheep.  Or heck, just borrow cutting time on theirs. 


Cheers!

PS.  Thanks Mark.  Didn't mean to ignore you.

8
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: November 25, 2019, 10:11:11 AM »
Mike

I'm not a graphic designer.   The software I use was about $40 on sale.  Its been a bit of a learning curve but it gives me access to more fonts and features.  You could design a basic sign in the software that comes with the cutting machines.  You'd just have access to fewer fonts.  Although that may not be true with all of the models.  There are several makers. 

As to the machine, I chose the Cricut Maker because of the Knife Blade option.  Its essentially a computer driven #11 X-acto blade that will cut chipboard up to 2mm thick and also 1/16 inch basswood.  You don't use this blade to cut stencils.  The less expensive machines can do the job with the standard cutting blade.  That being said, if you don't make enough signs the investment isn't worth it. 

I use my machine to cut stencils for painted signs, cut lettering from card for 3-D signs, and cut walls for structures.   I suspect I'll find other jobs for it in the future.

I still swing an x-acto knife and a single edged razor blade when appropriate.  For instance, I added diagonal bracing to the platform supports this morning.






Cheers.

9
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: November 24, 2019, 10:27:55 PM »
I designed the sign in Affinity Designer and then saved that as a vector file.  I then took file over to Cricut design space and cut it with my Cricut Maker. 

I planked the loading docks and let them dry over night.  This is the larger dock.




With the odd shape the deck planking overhangs the framing.




I trimmed the planks by flipping the deck over and using a single edged razor blade.  I collected and saved the trimmings so that I can toss a few around the base of the dock. 




Here is a quick test fit showing how the large deck will attach to the building.  The planking will sit on the foundation wall.




I laid out the spacing for the outer legs on some graph paper.   Then I covered it with waxed paper and glued the legs down with a drop of glue at each end.  I'll let these dry over night and then add angled bracing.




Cheers.

10
Scratchbuilding / Re: Odd Manufacturing
« on: November 23, 2019, 05:51:32 PM »
Odd manufacturing made it to the top of the queue this week. 

I rechecked the fit for the oddly shaped lot next to the curving tracks to finalize the shape, got out the gel superglue, and went to work assembling the structure.  This side will face the tracks.




From above you can see the general shape.   I added a stripwood lip inside the walls to support the roof.




The roof is cut from chipboard and reinforced with fairly heavy stripwood.




I added a temporary handle to the roof to make it easier to remove while working.




I finally settled on a name.  The name is the combination of three old typewriter manufacturers, two English and one from the New England area.  So now we know what old ODD manufacturers.  I cut a stencil and painted the sign in black.




After allowing the black to dry I positioned the stencil slightly up and right from the original location and stenciled in white.




And that gives a nice drop shadow to the letters.  Those Os still need a little touch up.




And here is the finished wall.   The other large wall has the same sign.




Somewhere in the process I went back and painted the trim bricks green.




The building needed a foundation to raise the freight doors up to loading dock height.  I found an old foam retaining wall casting in my supplies, cut it into strips, and then arranged it to fit the building.




The wall facing the green building was from a different kit and came up a bit short.  I filled the gap at the base with a bit of balsa.  Once painted and hidden by scenery the patch will be invisible.




The foundation wall fits the look pretty well.




Here is the assembled building with foundation.  This is the side that faces away from the tracks.




For the roof access structure I wanted to simulate glass block.  After several experiments I settled on these windows cut with my Cricut cutting machine.  I used the machine to score the pattern.  This material is brittle and easily snapped along the score lines to make individual windows.




I also used the Cricut to cut the main walls for the roof structure from chipboard.  I primed the core and then added additional details from stripwood and card.




At the moment I am working on several augments for the building.  The roof structure is drying so that it can be painted and the windows installed.  I also started working on an appropriately oddly shaped loading dock.




I also cut and stained parts for the loading dock legs and a second dock.




At the moment the workbench is covered in drying products.  I am considering another augment to dress up the narrow wall with the freight and personal door.  Perhaps something that looks more like an office entrance.  We'll see.  Also, as a last step this structure will get a heavy vine treatment to cover up the corner seams that didn't meet cleanly.

Cheers.





11
Dioramas / Re: Two cities layout.
« on: November 13, 2019, 03:08:08 PM »
A few random updates today.

I finished the elevator tower on the gray building.   




That railing looks pretty sketchy but its better than nothing.  I also added some vent pipes to the roof.




Here is a test fit of the hotel building.   It was originally intended to be located more to the right, and it still may be, but it looks good here too.




With the hotel located here you'd be able to see into the lobby and tavern by looking under the rail bridge. 




I filled in the alley between the station and the gray building with some Downtown Deco aged brick. 




On the back side of the green building I used some Magnuson brick sidewalk and made the alley with more Downtown Deco brick.  The gaps need dirt and weeds.





Cheers.

12
Dioramas / Re: Two cities layout.
« on: October 24, 2019, 10:27:52 AM »
I was planning to use some blackening solution on the bands which I remembered after I had them installed.  The solution I have calls for a through rinsing with water after darkening the metal which seemed a bad idea on a wooden tank.  So I went with the thinned acrylic paint. 

The results look good enough and the brass gives a glint of metal with a general color of rust.  The tank also needed the extra weathering.  The tank will be about 30" from the isle and above eye level one the hotel is in place so it should do the job nicely.

Thanks all.


13
Dioramas / Re: Two cities layout.
« on: October 22, 2019, 05:56:32 PM »
Thanks Doug.

I wasn't able to finish this update before I had to leave on a trip but now that I'm back we can continue.

I scored the flat wall ends of the wall castings to match the brick pattern and then painted the brick, door, and windows.  The roof is card covered in a sheet of black tissue paper.  I didn't bother with much detail here as it will be covered by the tank.




I painted the tops of the support timbers and attached the tank.  I painted the hatch and gave the roof a wash in thinned acrylic paint.  I used grays and browns to give some variation.




For the tank bands I decided to give this coiled jewelry wire a try. 




I sized one band on the tank and then marked a paper cup to make a guide to cut the remaining bands.




Here are all of the bands ready to be installed on the tank.




To play the role of turnbuckles I used these jewelry crimping tubes.




I placed a band around the tank and slipped each end into the crimping tube.  Then using small needle nose pliers I flattened the tube with the wires stacked on top of each other.  I then rotated the flattened tube to lay flat against the tank and worked the bands inward to tighten them.




I continued with each band offsetting the position of the crimping tube.




Here we have all of the bands installed around the tank.




I made a guide to control the spacing of the bands from a bit of strip wood notched with a razor saw.  I used small drops of thin superglue to hold the bands in position on the tank.  I also put a bit of superglue on each crimp tube to keep them from loosening.




I finished painting the timbers, mounted the tank on top of the roof structure, and added a ladder.   The ladder is made from some metal ladder stock from my scrap box.  I bent the top over and cut out a few rungs to make the top portion. I added a standoff cut from a bit of sheet brass to mount it to the edge of the timbers.   This is clearly not a modern safety ladder.




I used some thinned lamp black acrylic paint to darken the metal bands.  I also worked the black wash vertically on the tank boards to give some more weathering.   I added small lengths of I-beam to the ends of the structure to imply a steel structure supporting the timbers.  Here is the finished tank from another angle.




I applied a basic rolled roof to the subroof made from strips of painted pastel paper and then placed the signs and tank in place.




I positioned the structure to align with the location of the elevator lobby implied by the interior on the ground floor.




The the tank looks pretty nice along side the roof signs.




The bands and crimp tubes are a little oversized for HO scale but mounted up on the tall building at the back of the scene they give a nice texture to the tank.  I wouldn't use them for a foreground tank although, in O scale or maybe even S scale they might work pretty well.



Thats all for now.

Cheers.


14
Dioramas / Re: Two cities layout.
« on: October 13, 2019, 05:03:18 PM »
The updates are behind and I've been spending too much time repairing locomotives but here we go.

The hotel needs a water tank on the roof.  I used some scribed siding wrapped around a cardboard core cut from a mailing tube.




I made the bottom from more scribe siding.   I used a razor saw to cut the ends of the "boards" all the way though.




The tank will sit on a base made from heavy timbers.  I attached them to some waxed paper with small drops of white glue to set the spacing.




The tank will sit on top of the elevator servicing structure.  I cut the walls from some left over scrap box parts.




For the tank roof I used the method described in the Campbells water tank kit.  Triangles of card are covered with Campbell paper shingles.




The triangles were flipped over and taped together.




Then they were pulled together forming the roof pitch and the last joint taped.




Here is the almost finished roof.  The hatch is a reefer roof hatch from the scrap box. 




The roof will be attached to this flat card cut to match. 




After fitting the flat panel under the roof I realized that I needed to trim the tape back.




Using the tank as a stand I inverted the roof and glued the flat panel in pace.




After the roof dried I turned it upright and reinforced the tape joints with small beads of canopy glue.  Then I covered the joints with strips of folded craft paper and capped it off with a finial casting. 




Cheers

15
Dioramas / Re: Two cities layout.
« on: September 15, 2019, 10:28:19 PM »
Thanks.

I have just a quick update tonight. 

Because the hotel (which was supposed to be a background building) has gone a bit over the top I needed a way to get into it to access wiring and what ever else I decide to add to it later.  So I needed to devise a way to make the back removable.  Magnets to the rescue.   I attached 5 angle brackets from the hardware drawer: two at each corner at the bottom, one on the left side about half way up, and two to the underside of the roof deck.  Because of the angle of the back wall the right side tucks into the side wall so no midpoint bracket was needed.





I then attached a ceramic disk magnet that had double sided foam tape on one side to each of the metal bracket and pressed the back into position.  The foam tape grabbed just enough to hold the magnet in place while removed the back.  Then I pressed the magnets more firmly into the back wall.  The wall is foam core with some stripwood to reinforce it.





Now i have a back for the hotel that holds nicely but is easily removed.




I also finished the sign to hang above the tavern door.  I found a clipart image of a scroll and inserted the image of a St. George painting into the scroll.  I then added lettering to the top and bottom.  Next I printed two copies of the signboard on photo paper.  I cut these out and attached them back to back to make it double sided.  The metal bracket is made from wire. I made the curved piece using some very small round tipped jewelry pliers.  I used thin superglue applied with a toothpick to assemble the bracket and attach the sign.  Once dry I painted the bracket black.




That's all for now.  There's a water tank for the roof in the works now.

Cheers.

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