Consistent lighting for consistent colors

Started by martin.ojaste, November 18, 2015, 09:35:01 PM

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martin.ojaste

Posted - 11/18/2015 :  4:17:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ojaste's Homepage  Edit Topic  Reply with Quote



Here is a quick tip that might be useful to you when building a model.

Quick Tip #9 - Consistent Colours
https://youtu.be/sb9ym1JYQqg

deemery

I use a Light Meter app on my cellphone (called, appropriately enough, "LightMeter" on my iPhone :-) ) to measure the light color across my layout.  This doesn't help you decide what lighting to use, but it will help you understand how the light is distributed across the layout.  And it's also useful for matching disparate lights; I used it to check how close my workbench fluorescents are to my layout LED lights.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Slim Jerkins


Nice tip Martin. Not sure if your editor is capable but having small images of each lighting type on the screen at the same time would be good.

At my workbench I have two strips of LEDs stuck to the bottom of the overhead wall cabinets. The strips are CCT strips (Correlated Color Temperature)

http://www.denoled.com/products/led-strip-light/Color-Temperature-Adjustable-3528-LED-Strip-Super-Bright-new.html

The link shows what I'm talking about. Although those aren't the same strips I'm using, the controller is identical. You might see the same controller pop up in many web-stores. I really like the setup because you can adjust the color temp. Most of the time I have it set to "Goldilocks" - not to warm, not to cool. I really like them a lot; they don't throw off any heat.

-slim

sdrees

Hi Martin,

I am now in the process of figuring out the lighting for my model railroad so I can install it before I start the bench work.  What is your opinion of how may lumens per square foot you should use?  There are several manufacturers who make retro fit T8 LED tube lights that you can install in existing fluorescent fixtures.  For some of the  tubes  you have to rewire the fixture around the ballast and others you can use direct.

Steve
 
Steve Drees
SP RR

deemery

I replaced my 4'/2 tube fluorescent shoplight fixtures with equivalent LED fixtures.  But I think if I were doing this today, I'd "bite the bullet" and go with LED strips worked into my own custom fixtures.  The LED tubes provide a bit more light than the previous fluorescent fixtures (I should have measured that, lumens and light color, with my LightMeter app before and after.) 


I have a 4' fixture every 6' or so.



dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

martin.ojaste

#5
Steve,


To be honest it really depends on what type of environment you want to simulate. There are "standard" calculators to help with this answer (i.e. http://www.charlstonlights.com/led-light-requirement-calculator).

I am a fan of LED's and what they can provide, but it is a challenge to get the right amount of lumens where you want it. Based on my experience I would suggest,

- Decide on the "mood" you are building. i.e. morning, afternoon, evening, etc. or all of them
- Decide on where east and west are. This can be an impossible task, but thinking about it is important for mood
- Decide on what sub-scenes will be in shade or bright sun

Given those basic requirements, then you can begin to answer your question. Some tips to think about,

- have as many different lighting circuits as you can possibly have to match the sub-scenes
- try to get LED bulbs or fixtures that can be dimmed so you can balance them
- at no time should you be able to see the LED directly
- consider what the light is shining on as it will change the temperature of the reflected light. IE. green and blue backgrounds reflect light at different temperatures and will cause cold shifts
- provide LEDs for ambient light that does not shine in the face
- have  master light switch(es) to turn on/off sections of the layout if it is biG
- cost the cost for installation, electric load and replacements. (LED do go bad and some are unsafe; UL or CSA or EU approved ones only)
- some LEDs produce a high pitched whine, it will drive you crazy - eventually

As you can see, lighting a layout or diorama is a interior design effort and prototyping/testing lighting is the best thing next to getting a lighting consultant in. As you partner for their thoughts; you will be amazed how different they will see it.


I hope this helps.

martin.ojaste

Slim,


Thanks for the kick about p-p. I finally found out how to do it in iMovie 10. It's something to remember for later.


I love the variable lite LED strip.

sdrees

Marin,

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.  I appreciate it very much.

Steve
Steve Drees
SP RR

Mkrailway

Finally got down to re-edit the video to show the affect light has on a model.

https://youtu.be/4ACGZxeWdIY


engine909

Thank you. Thank you. The information the members of this forum are willing to share is so appreciated.
ed

Mkrailway

Ed, your are so welcome. The more we share the better the modellers we become and the hobby will grow and survive.

Graffen

Nice topic!
I'm deciding which light to install in the layout room without breaking the bank...
LED is a must, and I guess around 5000K and 800 lumen per square meter layout?
In my work as architect, I installed 18 W LED panels in an office, and they were both affordable ($80 each) and had a very nice light. They are 2' x 2' with a frosted (opaque?) Plastic which diffuses and spreads the light evenly.
They gave a reading of 980 lumen at a distance of 5'.
I guess I would need 8 of them to illuminate my layout.

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