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Author Topic: Vehicles for the Delaware & Northern RR  (Read 7265 times)

postalkarl

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Re: Vehicles for the Delaware & Northern RR
« Reply #105 on: June 03, 2020, 10:55:02 AM »
hey Jerry:

They look just great.

Karl

jerryrbeach

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Re: Vehicles for the Delaware & Northern RR
« Reply #106 on: June 25, 2020, 07:08:36 PM »
hey Jerry:

They look just great.

Karl


Karl,


Thanks for dropping in and the kind words.
Jerry

jerryrbeach

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Re: Vehicles for the Delaware & Northern RR
« Reply #107 on: June 25, 2020, 07:30:25 PM »
I've been working on a couple Jordan Model T's, a 1925 coupe / pickup and a mail truck.  I thought I had taken more photos of the construction process, but as usual, once I got rolling I forgot to take all the shots I intended.  I will post what I did take as well as a couple tips I find make the construction of the T's easier. 


FWIW, the original price of the mail truck was $1.50, with a note on the instruction sheet that said it was purchased at a swap meet in 1983, again for $1.50.  It also had a $4 price tag on it, apparently what I paid. 


On the mail truck I sprayed the outside of the body with a Rattle can of olive drab camo color.  I thought I took a pic of this, oops.  Then I masked off the camo after it had dried for a couple days and finished spraying the interior, underframe, wheels, etc., all with various rattle cans.  After the wheels were dry I used Vallejo dark gray to paint the tires, interior floor, etc.   
Jerry

jerryrbeach

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Re: Vehicles for the Delaware & Northern RR
« Reply #108 on: June 25, 2020, 07:43:31 PM »
OK, now for a couple tips that may make construction easier.  First, the underframe has a nice rendition of the pivoting joint where the radius rods fasten to the bottom of the bell housing.  The issue I find it that this means the gluing area is tiny.  I either remove the "bump" with a file or knife, or I glue the radius rods in front of this piece.  The instructions refer to this as a "pad".  This gives a much larger gluing area where the radius rods fasten to the bottom of the bell housing.  The pic shows my scalpel blade pointing at the "pad".


I also glue the rear spring to the underframe using a small drop of liquid plastic cement. Then I glue the front of the driveshaft to the rear of the transmission, again with a small drop of plastic cement.  I then flex the rear spring until it lines up with the axle and when everything is lined properly I use ACC to glue the spring to the axle.  I find this much easier than the directions that call for gluing the spring to the axle and then gluing the assembly to the underframe.  The ends of the springs where they glue to the axle are very small, so by fastening the larger gluing surfaces first I find it easier to get everything aligned. 


My last tip is that after a joint is in place and the initial application of cement or ACC has set, I add fillets of ACC to every joint using the tip of a wire as an applicator.  I always add the wheels last, again a small application of ACC and a fillet around the joint after the first application has set.  If the wheels do not all touch a flat surface evenly i have had good success using a small flat blade screwdriver to twist the rear spring until that axle matches the alignment of the front axle. 
« Last Edit: June 26, 2020, 06:20:04 AM by jerryrbeach »
Jerry