HO FOS Preston Printers

Started by PRR Modeler, October 08, 2018, 04:50:29 PM

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PRR Modeler

First thank you to Jim Donovan and Dave K. for their help with downsizing photos.

I just received a Preston Printers kit in HO, so as I make the journey of discovery I will share my progress. The kit recommended off-white for the walls and dark green for the trim. Based on this I will use Tamiya Flat White, Tamiya Flat Field Grey (Greyish Green) and Tamiya Flat Buff (bare wood). The bottom part of the walls are stucco.

After reading the directions several times I still had several questions so I sent a email requesting clarification to Doug at FOS scale models.


Today I removed all the wall and roof wood parts, then I sanded all the edges and put A&I, Field Grey, and splotches of Buff on the wood trim.



Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

GPdemayo

Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Janbouli

A new kit and you're building it right away , that's new for this forum  ;) , following along.
I love photo's, don't we all.

jimmillho

But you just got it, shouldn't you let it cool off for a couple of days ?  Everyone else would have just added it to their "stash"

I will still be following this build.

Jim

ACL1504

Curt,

I'll follow along as well.

Did you get a response from Doug?

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Dave K.

Happily following your build.👍🏻

S&S RR

I will also be following along.  I'm impressed that your building a kit you just received. 
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

PRR Modeler

Thank you Greg, Jan, Jim, Dave K., Tom, and John.

Tom- Doug has not so far.

Today since I'm waiting on the email from Doug about the walls so I cut out all the windows and doors, primed them with grey colored rattle can. After that I did a layer of Field Grey and finally sponged on some Buff. To secure them during painting I use a thick wooden yard stick with painters tape on it.


I also painted the 5 pieces of concrete. For that I blended Model Master Concrete and Aged Concrete. To my eye the aged has just a touch too much yellow in it.



Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Opa George

I'll also be following along, Curt.
George

ReadingBob

Hi Curt,

Looking at the pictures of the kit on the FOS website I'd have to say I'd refrain from adding stucco to the lower walls until after I've connected the four walls of the main structure together.  If you stucco the walls before you do that you'll have to go back and touch up the corners after the walls have been joined together.  It can be done that way, I did it that way on my FSM Bailey's build.  I had to go back, sand the joints at the corner, apply the stucco then paint and weather the repaired corners to match the rest of the wall.  On the Bailey's build that was the best way because there was an inside corner that would have been hard to apply stucco to had the walls been joined together first.  I don't think you have that challenge.

If you hold off on applying the stucco you'll have to add the doors and windows to the lower walls afterwards.  That shouldn't be too much of a challenge.  Use painters tape to mask off the top wall before you apply stucco to the bottom wall.

Looks like a neat kit.  I wonder if I have this one.  I'll have to check.  If not, it's going on the X-Mas list.   ::)
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Jim Donovan

I too will be tagging along. Learning is almost as much fun as doing, almost. Glad the e-mail picture  sizing trick helped :D

Jim D
Holland & Odessa Railroad

PRR Modeler

Thank you to George, Reading Bob, and Jim for following.

Reading Bob- A special thanks for your PM and comments in the Baggage Car. It helped a lot.

Today I did the internal bracing on the 4 main walls. I didn't have the energy to brace all the window boxes (cupolas?) that go on the roof. I believe there are 6 of them. I also did a paint test on a waste piece of the bottom wall (ground floor) (fibrous material). The second floor is wood.

Sorry no pictures today.

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

PRR Modeler

Today I finished the last of the bracing and trim. It took a lot longer than I was expecting. Tomorrow I will probably start the interior painting with Tamiya Flat Black. In the picture the walls are not glued together.

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

PRR Modeler

Since my last posting I have painted the interior Tamiya flat black and did a white wash on the outside walls with Tamiya White mixed with blue washer fluid. I'm not sure if I need to do another wash and will probably decide tomorrow. If you have a opinion please feel free to share.

I destroyed a small window wall (mounted on roof) that I had cracked earlier so I fabricated another.

Here are 2 suggestions for future builds:

1. On the end walls brace the 2 parts of the wall together instead of just the upper part of the wall.

2. I applied the wall trim on the upper walls before bracing to ensure the upper and lower walls aligned properly. I also applied all the other trim at the same time. I wish I would of applied it for all the other wood pieces after the wall painting like I normally do to prevent the over painting.

The windows are not glued in.



Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

ACL1504

Curt,

It's still coming along nicely.

Is it possible to just paint the walls a stucco color as it looks like there is some sort of pattern on the exterior wall.

I'm also assuming Doug never got back with you.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

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