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Author Topic: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project  (Read 9398 times)

Janbouli

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #45 on: February 25, 2019, 06:52:31 PM »
Magnificent, and thanks for the trick with the wood block.
I love photo's, don't we all.

PRR Modeler

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #46 on: February 25, 2019, 09:20:35 PM »
Outstanding modeling Bob.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
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bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #47 on: February 26, 2019, 05:28:11 PM »
The scaffolding with the elevator is in place and the roof eaves cleaned up.  Some small detail is done also with NBW castings and stake pockets.

The next is bending wire for grab irons and steps.  I like repetition but only so far.  14 grabs for the ladders isn't too tough.  My first job, when I was 14, was in a piano restoration house in Chicago in 1961, it taught me repetition. Everything there is times 88.

Below are photos of the scaffolding planted on the roof.

More later.








I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #48 on: February 26, 2019, 06:57:52 PM »
Excellent modeling Bob.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #49 on: March 08, 2019, 01:21:13 AM »
I'm Back....

Been out sick for a week. 


So here is a discussion on how to make miniature doors with real glass and visible from both sides.  It's not  tough............ just really little ! ! ! !

Below is a photo of the core frame for the door.  It is cut to exactly the finished size of the door.  In this case, .910" x .410".  The extra .010" in each direction is that the opening of the door way on the model is .9 x .4".  This allows for some "hide" around the frame so you cannot see around the door.


This core is the base for everything that will come after.  The object here is to build a door as a pocket for the glass, a square of microscope slide cover glass.   



The structural frame work for the door is scale 2x6 lumber from any supplier.  As strip applied to each side of the door.  Before adding the fourth strip, cut the core out of the glass area.  This becomes the opening for the pocket.   Then the header is added to fill in the top and framed around also in scale 2x6.




The header inside the top closes the pocket.   There is no easy way to display this and especially with clear glass so I used a scrap of colored paper.



It does not matter really which side the pocket opens to so I built one of each to demonstrate.  Once painted the glass can be added and the pocket closed with a thin pull of yellow glue.  I use it like a paste filler.


Below is a photo of both completed doors with the guide wires and receiver tube that the wire will be guided in to allow the door to slide open and closed.  This will not be installed until all other paint work is done as there is no way to get the wire into the tube except as a complete unit.  The guide wire comes from the far side of the door so as to allow for the longest possible tube and the most stability in open or closed locations.


More later

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bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #50 on: March 08, 2019, 01:23:16 AM »
Here is a photo of the door held up in the opening.



More tomorrow
see ya
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restocarp

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #51 on: March 08, 2019, 05:34:52 AM »
Incredible work, Bob.

Matt

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #52 on: March 08, 2019, 08:31:33 AM »
Very intricate work Bob. It's top notch.
Curt Webb
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bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #53 on: March 08, 2019, 10:33:46 AM »
I have been struggling for some weeks now as to how and secure all of the layers of this work motor.  There is the brass frame, the wooden deck and the superstructure.  I want them separate for construction and painting and then secured with the fewest amount of screws.  Two seems to be the answer.

When I worked for Mercedes Benz we had this engineering understanding as to how the Germans thought.  "Hold one thing down with seven screws or seven things down with one screw!"  Example.... look inside of their automatic transmissions of the 70's and 80's to see full evidence.

So the plan is to come up through the bottom of the model through the brass frame and have a captive nut held in the base of the superstructure.   None of this is complicated but let me take a moment to show how to make up a captive nut device.

When you try and solder a nut, here an 0-80 for example, the solder wants to wick into the threads.  A way to prevent this is to put a suitable tap into the nut.  This allows a handle on the nut and a clean out device once the nut has cooled.  You CANNOT use a bolt, even stainless that will not take solder.  It sounds like it should work but there is no place for the solder to "fail" to.  With a tap, as soon as you attempt to turn it, the solder starts carving out and returns you to good clean threads.

Here is a photo of the captive nut and plate.  The plate is glued to the inside of the superstructure with contact cement.  I keep a small jar of contact cement partially thickened for such purposes.  I gave up on Goo as it kicks off in the tube.  They changed ! ! ! !  It never used to do that.

Further, I bent in the corners a bit so as to have teeth that wound crush into the wood for an extra tooth against the shear force of the pull of the bolt when assembled.  The glue has fully gassed out before any load is applied.




More later

thanx for looking in
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

Jerry

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #54 on: March 08, 2019, 11:51:46 AM »
Bob that is some really fine modeling!!

Jerry
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bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #55 on: March 08, 2019, 06:48:26 PM »
This afternoon was given to making up the last of the parts for this trolley motor.  Painting and finishing is next.

Here is a photo that is a good example of what trolley equipment used for and called couplers.  They were not the Janey type that we associate with everything out there.  They were a square receptacle and a peg that would go into this and latch (After this known as a "gazinta").  That's because one gazinta the other !!!    What were they thinking when the put me in front of students  ? ? ? ?

Anyhow............  They were primitive at best.  The photo makes me laugh as this thing looks like it has taken a lot of hits and is not used regularly.  But when you build something like this....... it's gotta be there.



My parts are brass square stock and a flat bar shank with a 00-90 washer on the other end.  The plate is sheet brass that will look like a base plate bolted into the wooden substructure of the deck.

Doesn't look like a whole afternoon of work but................... this is a hobby........






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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #56 on: March 08, 2019, 08:28:51 PM »
Really nice job on them Bob.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
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Oldguy

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #57 on: March 08, 2019, 10:19:42 PM »
So the "coupler" was like a long shank link and pin set up?

 You, sir, have some crazy good model building skills.  A doff of the hat to you.
Bob Dye
Livin large on a pond

cuse

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #58 on: March 09, 2019, 07:33:07 AM »
Bob, as usual, this is nuts! really next-level stuff. Very impressive!


John

bparrish

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Re: Overhead Trolley Work Motor Project
« Reply #59 on: March 09, 2019, 01:07:11 PM »
Bob....

Trolley couplers were rather all over the place.    The freight motors used a common Janey coupler as that what was coming in off of the interchange.


In this case yes....... it is like a miniature link and pin......... but...    I've not found any Boise Valley photos that show a link or an obvious use of a pin.  In truth, they seldom coupled stuff together so most of the time stuff was just along for the ride.

Thanx for looking in

see ya
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.