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Author Topic: Layout Edging  (Read 256 times)

Dennis Bourey

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Layout Edging
« on: September 15, 2020, 11:19:14 AM »
Hello, I have a weird question. Can anybody tell me how they got the different height on the edging with the hard board? I got my  Bench work done and all the plywood down but not screwed to the bench work yet. My question how do you get the different height with the plywood being flat as it is? Thanks Dennis
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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2020, 11:46:35 AM »
Dennis are you talking about the fascia or height for the roadbed?
Curt Webb
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Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2020, 12:05:18 PM »
Sorry Curt, Here's a picture..I notice lot's of layout's change so much....Dennis
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bparrish

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2020, 02:50:51 PM »
Dennis....

There are a number of ways............ for small undulations just a pour of thick plaster will work in limited areas.

For larger areas that move perhaps an inch or more, consider insulation foam.  Available in big box home repair types of places.  Cut and shape what you want and then hide it under a thin pour of plaster and flow out the edges.

To affix you cannot use any distillate based glues like contact cement.   However most any latex caulking with work.  Also there is a product that might still be available called bullet bond. 


Gorilla glue might be suitable also.... not tried it however.

Put up some photos when you can.

see ya
Bob
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

mark dalrymple

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2020, 03:09:24 PM »
And if you're talking about the fascia...

Screw it into position (or clamp if possible), mark the undulations on the fascia with a pencil, unscrew and put it on a couple of saw horses (or better still on a large scrap piece of 60mm polystyrene or thicker on flat ground - thicker than the jig saw blade), and cut it with a jig saw.  Sand and reinstall using glue and screws or nails.  If using MDF it doesn't really matter which side you saw from, but if using 3-ply you really want to mark and cut the face, as the backside will chip.  Best to test on your chosen timber.  Jig saws come in some fairly budget models, but one of these should be fine for this sort of work.  They also work well for cutting curves in polystyrene - although the mess is impressive.  DON'T work in socks!  You'll walk it through the entire house!

Cheers, Mark.

Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2020, 07:10:28 PM »
I'm sorry guy's I'm explaining it wrong. When I put the plywood down and screwed it to the bench work I basically have a huge table. I was wondering how do you go about getting the different height on the edge of the lay out from being just flat across? Do you somehow extend it for cut the 2x4 and the plywood? like picture attached, I seen it go down also. Thanks Guy's....Dennis
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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2020, 08:19:15 PM »
Dennis I use cardboard strips and plaster cloth as a base, others use carved pieces of foam. You can use anything as long as it's solid.
Curt Webb
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Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2020, 08:36:05 PM »
Thank you Curt, Bob and mark...Dennis
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mark dalrymple

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2020, 09:31:03 PM »
Hi Dennis.

I'm still a bit confused about what you are asking...but, below is a link to my Shadowlands and Tellynott build.  On page two is me doing work on framing for my fascia - mainly above the layout, but the last two photos show how I built framing to fasten my fascia to - both above and below the bench - to hide my hidden sidings.  I use 2"x1" timber, screwed and glued.

http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4484.15

Hope this helps - and if I'm on the wrong track, not much has changed!

Cheers, Mark.

Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2020, 09:47:36 PM »
Thanks mark, I'm more confused then you. What i'm trying to figure out how do the guys and girls get the different height at the outskirt of the layout not just a flat looking end of the layout. I looked at lots of different layouts and see where the hardboard is and it's has anywhere from 0 inches to maybe 6 or more inches of a dip...Dennis
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mark dalrymple

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2020, 02:53:23 AM »
OK.  Maybe where the confusion lies is around the fact that most modelers that have terrain with lots of ups and downs don't build a table top.  Instead they use L-girder or T-girder.  In this way it is easy to attach rises to the sides of the L-girders and then attach the track bed to that.  That leaves the L-girder lower by whatever height you decided to build it.  Terrain can then be built on top of that in a number of different ways - mesh and plaster or foam, stacked polystyrene etc.  For the city part of my layout I did build a table top on top of my L-girder.  I then stacked polystyrene and ceiling tiles to gain height for my track level and continued stacking polystyrene higher towards the backdrop.  The table top is my water base, the lower stack is my track and the hills rise from there back.  I cut wedges of polystyrene for roads and cut these wedges into about 2" sections.  In this way I can create curved graded road bases.  I build up my building sites with flat stacks of polystyrene.  Natural terrain can then be added with an expanding foam gun.  My layout thread goes through a lot of this in detail (link in my last post).  For the mountain section there will be no table top areas - perhaps with the exception of the lime works and the ore/ coal wharf.

If you have built a table top and laid track on top of that, creating downward terrain will be difficult and will require cutting of baseboard and framing - and probably rebuilding and redesigning some of this.  It is not impossible  but can be both messy and dangerous to the health of any models that can't be moved.

Cheers, Mark.

Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2020, 10:30:28 AM »
Thanks mark, I understand more now. If I wanted to go below grade I should of built a open top table. I went to Lowes yesterday and almost died........ I bought 50 2x4's a month ago and they were $3.20 each yesterday they were almost $7 Holly poop. So I decided not to buy anymore yesterday. How can a average guy buy material to build anything? never mind a new home..No one at the store could explain the increase in price. well I will figure this out. I have 3/4 plywood in the storage area and maybe I'll cut them into 4 inch wide strips. More to come...Dennis
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bparrish

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2020, 01:15:43 PM »
OK......  I think I know what you are asking.

Use your fascia board for the profile you want around the room.  Whether it be masonite, homosote or celotex board.     ' There is also a product called "bender board" that comes in 4x8 sheets.  It's about one half inch thick so you can run your scenicing right up on it and it will have enough surface to be really durable.


Then simply fill in the difference in height with materials that I noted earlier in this thread.

What is necessary is that you paint the fascia some color that does not draw attention to itself and steal the attention that your railroad deserves.

Hope this helps.

Also, I have no idea what wood prices are doing but there is a huge building boom here in downtown Idaho.  Who da thunk it.

Bob
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Dennis Bourey

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2020, 01:25:02 PM »
Thanks Bob, Exactly what I'm trying to do.Dennis
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rpdylan

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Re: Layout Edging
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2020, 06:38:17 AM »
All lumber has gone sky high due to Covid interfering with manufacturing.
Bob C.

 

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