“Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

Looks like it to me. Mine is in A different box.

Karl

[Keep It Rusty]

I got down to it with Emporium Seafood.

First up, I primed all the castings. For me, I find it easiest to separate out the castings by material. For example, wood, metal, brick, windows and doors etc... my first attachment image below highlights this separation method. From here, the castings will be further airbrushed and then hand-painted to finish.

I also started on the walls. I first added nail holes with a pounce wheel, lifted clapboards with a straight edge blade, added interior bracing and then applied the stain. In the instructions, George calls to stain the walls before bracing, but I didn't want to follow suit knowing how much these larger wall sections can warp. That said, I understand why he does it this way — with glue seepages disturbing stains etc...

I wanted to represent a heavily worn/used building, one that gets lashed by salt water day in and day out. I used a combination of Hunterline stains (Driftwood, Light Gray & Blue Gray) along with my A&I mix to achieve the look. There are two wall sections where the stains don't make sense — this is because they will be covered once assembled.

There are also pastel chalks at work... and some AK Interactive enamels (like Moss Deposits at the foot of the wall sections). See the second attachment for more.

From here, I added my 1/16th trim. These trim pieces aren't all finished as they need to have pastel chalk weathering applied. After I finished the trim, I cut and added the main sign in the front wall section.

Once everything is dry, I will add my casting windows and doors and then start assembling the main structure.

For now that's all she wrote.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Nice start, Craig.

Cheers, Mark.

[Keep It Rusty]

Thanks, Mark. Excited to be putting this one together.

[PRR Modeler]

Great start.

[Jerry]

Oh yeah!!  Were off and running!!


Jerry

[Keep It Rusty]

Thanks for following along Curt & Jerry. I'll try and make this journey as fun as possible!

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

built that a few months ago for my friends layout. Looking good so far.

Karl

[Keep It Rusty]

That's great, Karl! Anything to look out for in the build? I expect not, given George's excellent engineering

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

Nah just follow the instructions. It goes together well.

Karl

[Keep It Rusty]

Update time.

The clapboard was stained with multiple thin layers of Hunterline alcohol stains. Driftwood, Light Gray and Blue Gray were used. I also used the standard A&I mix on certain areas like corners and lifted clapboards. One additional step was a super light layer of Hunterline's Golden Brown stain. I wanted to change the temperature of the walls to a warmer look and this did the job perfectly.

In multiple step passes like this it's always worth doing detailed workup notes as you go — especially true when there are additional walls to be painted further along in the build that need to match up.

At this stage I added AK's Moss Deposits to the bottom of each panel as well as some pastel chalks. As Doug Foscale often says, you want the structure to look like it lives in the Earth, not just placed on top of it.

Moving on, before everything can be assembled all the windows and doors had to be painted and installed and all other signs added as well:







These castings were painted with a combination of different branded oils. Using oils allows me to practice one of the favorite methods of painting: "the subtraction method" — a technique where you paint to 11 and then use mineral spirits to pull it back to 10. Here's my workup:

• Primed with "Neutral yellow" Stynlrez
• Straight wash of Mr Hobby Weathering Oil Wash (Brown)
• Diluted pin wash of Mr Hobby Weathering Oil Wash (Multi Black) in cracks and crevices.
• Use mineral spirits with brush and/or Q-tip to clean certain areas, presenting a variation to each board.
• AK Interactive's enamel "Track Wash" and "Moss Deposits" to weather appropriate areas.
• Hinges and door handles painted with metallic acrylics.
• Pastel chalks used sparingly to add dusty appearance.

This resulted in some impressionistic yet realistic looking wood — well worn was my aim. Naturally, the more mineral spirits you use, the cleaner (or newer) a piece appears — "the subtraction method", remember.

With everything glued in place, I added my quick window dressing for the closed windows and tissue paper curtains for the open windows:



I also added the electrical meter. I used EZ line, instead of the included brown thread:



Then, the instructions called for assembly of the main building, followed by added the cornice (painted using the oil method above):









More soon.

[SteveCuster]

Looks great Craig! The wood coloring is excellent. I especially like the way the doors came out.

[PRR Modeler]

Excellent job on the color and details.

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

Wow Emporiam looks just great. As I said built that one A few months ago. It's A great kit.

Karl

[Keep It Rusty]

Steve, Curt, Karl — thanks so much for stopping by with your kind words. Your continued support means a lot.

I, too, am particularly pleased with the doors. So much so, I've purchased some more oil colors to experiment with.