“Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute

[Rusty Robot]

Greg, Bob — thank you for taking the time to read/look through and comment.

With regards to the Abteilung502s, I would by — to start — one of their little 5-tube sets. They come in various forms say, for instance, “Vehicle Weathering” or even “Weathering for Old Wood”. Also, the best place to get them is AK Interactive’s website. Yes, there is a €10-20 international shipping charge, but if you buy some other goodies whilst you are at it it can beat the $40-50 stateside price tag.

For me, the success with any oil comes down to my management of three things: capillary action, subtraction and layering.

• Capillary action. The oil to thinner mix. Not only does this manage how strong my wash is, is also handles my shadows. For example, a HO-scale doorknob. Never in a million years will I paint around one. However, a highly diluted oil wash will instantly outline this micro detail with the touch of a brush thanks to capillary action. I use this method on everything and works best when the casting is highly detailed — another reason to love FSM kits
• Subtraction. In other words, using a mineral spirit laden brush or q-tip as an eraser. I use this method on parts of the casting that are raised and would see more use. Careful management is needed, especially including the amount of spirits used
• Layering. Probably the most important painting method for the entire hobby. Multiple thin washes is always better than one heavy one. But layering applies before a wash, too. Having a base color makes all the difference to the washes you apply on top. With thin washes we are dealing with transparency, so not only does the base color have suit your design, but it will also influence the final tone of the piece. I start light and work my way to dark if I am washing — and then subtract where it gets too dark! Have to love painting with an undo button!

This applies to any oils, but Abteilung just makes life a little easier for us modelers.

[deemery]

Another tool to add to your toolbox are "colour shapers" https://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shapers-tools/  These are rubber (silicone) tipped "brushes" that work great for removing paint from corners, etc.  Just slightly wet the tip, and move the shaper around to pull up paint that gets someplace it doesn't belong.  They'd probably work OK to manipulate pigments (I haven't tried that.)


dave

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

I also really like what you did with the doors & windows. Great job. keep them thar pics flowing.

Karl

[Rusty Robot]

Dave, Karl -- thanks for your comments! Continuing on, then:

First up, the trusses:



Using pastel chalks, I aged and weathered the roof. The nuts on the trusses were painted using a rust effect paint by Modelmates (now Dirty Down, a UK-based supplier). I also added the black pitch.



With the roof installed, I then added broken glass, newspapers, leaves, chimneys, barrels and figures. I also added the roof access shed, using a combination of acrylic paints, pastel chalks and pencils to make it appear like aged tin sheeting. The figures are not yet installed and need a coat of matte varnish.



Next up was the billboard. It went together nicely, but some of the crossbeams were repositioned as I didn’t like the way they bowed out.

As I was painting the billboard, I assembled it first. Then I airbrushed a light green primer/base coat followed by an airbrushing of black to represent deeper wear, as seen at the bottom of the billboard’s rear. Several light oil washes were used to further age the wood. I used a pin to add nail holes, adding the same rust effect paint I used on the trusses above.





I followed George’s instructions on scoring and peeling the sign to resemble individual sections. I think it really makes the sign pop. I added some pastel chalks here and there and the sign was fixed to the roof.

Next up was the small peaked roof. I cut it out from the card and then I cut and painted all the corrugated panels (which is the opposite way around that George suggests -- paint then cut):



I airbrushed a standard brown primer first, then Model Air’s “Hull Red”. I added some black to the mix, making a black-brown, and then roughly airbrushed the ends of each panel to vary the wear effect.

Then, a combination of cheap craft paints were very, very lightly sponged on. I used Raw Sienna, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Dark Pumpkin. These were finished with pastel chalks.





I added some green pastel chalks and also curled some of the panel edges. This got me here:



That's it for now. Next up will be the water tank and office side structure.

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

The rooves look just great. Fine looking detail. Billboard look great also.

Karl

[Jerry]

Craig some really nice work on the billboard & roof.


The roof panel are they metal ones??


Jerry

[Rusty Robot]

Karl, Jerry — thank you for your kind comments.

And yes, Jerry, those are the included metal panels

[Bernd]

Craig,

Just stopped by to see how you're doing on this project.

Very impressive modeling. The weathering is outstanding. Great little details make it look so great.

Bernd

[Rusty Robot]

Thanks Bernd! This entire harbor is well worn, so I’m enjoying the weathering process. I do love beating up an otherwise healthy structure

[SteveCuster]

Looks great Craig! Both the roof and the billboard look excellent.

[postalkarl]

Hey Craig:

Looks like you used A different Billboard then the one that comes with the kit. Here's the one I used. It's one of my favorites.

Karl

[Rusty Robot]

Thanks Steve! Really appreciate you stopping by.

Karl, I used the included billboard (well, one of them). In fact, it's the very same one that George used for his original model

That's a cool alternative though!