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Author Topic: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute  (Read 7977 times)

Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #255 on: February 21, 2021, 11:11:50 AM »
Greg, Bob — thank you for taking the time to read/look through and comment.

With regards to the Abteilung502s, I would by — to start — one of their little 5-tube sets. They come in various forms say, for instance, “Vehicle Weathering” or even “Weathering for Old Wood”. Also, the best place to get them is AK Interactive’s website. Yes, there is a €10-20 international shipping charge, but if you buy some other goodies whilst you are at it it can beat the $40-50 stateside price tag.

For me, the success with any oil comes down to my management of three things: capillary action, subtraction and layering.

  • Capillary action. The oil to thinner mix. Not only does this manage how strong my wash is, is also handles my shadows. For example, a HO-scale doorknob. Never in a million years will I paint around one. However, a highly diluted oil wash will instantly outline this micro detail with the touch of a brush thanks to capillary action. I use this method on everything and works best when the casting is highly detailed — another reason to love FSM kits
  • Subtraction. In other words, using a mineral spirit laden brush or q-tip as an eraser. I use this method on parts of the casting that are raised and would see more use. Careful management is needed, especially including the amount of spirits used
  • Layering. Probably the most important painting method for the entire hobby. Multiple thin washes is always better than one heavy one. But layering applies before a wash, too. Having a base color makes all the difference to the washes you apply on top. With thin washes we are dealing with transparency, so not only does the base color have suit your design, but it will also influence the final tone of the piece. I start light and work my way to dark if I am washing — and then subtract where it gets too dark! Have to love painting with an undo button!

This applies to any oils, but Abteilung just makes life a little easier for us modelers.
Craig
rr@keepitrusty.com
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deemery

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #256 on: February 21, 2021, 12:01:18 PM »
Another tool to add to your toolbox are "colour shapers" https://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shapers-tools/  These are rubber (silicone) tipped "brushes" that work great for removing paint from corners, etc.  Just slightly wet the tip, and move the shaper around to pull up paint that gets someplace it doesn't belong.  They'd probably work OK to manipulate pigments (I haven't tried that.)


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

postalkarl

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #257 on: February 21, 2021, 01:57:27 PM »
Hey Craig:

I also really like what you did with the doors & windows. Great job. keep them thar pics flowing.

Karl

Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #258 on: February 22, 2021, 05:35:58 PM »
Dave, Karl -- thanks for your comments! Continuing on, then:

First up, the trusses:



Using pastel chalks, I aged and weathered the roof. The nuts on the trusses were painted using a rust effect paint by Modelmates (now Dirty Down, a UK-based supplier). I also added the black pitch.



With the roof installed, I then added broken glass, newspapers, leaves, chimneys, barrels and figures. I also added the roof access shed, using a combination of acrylic paints, pastel chalks and pencils to make it appear like aged tin sheeting. The figures are not yet installed and need a coat of matte varnish.



Next up was the billboard. It went together nicely, but some of the crossbeams were repositioned as I didn’t like the way they bowed out.

As I was painting the billboard, I assembled it first. Then I airbrushed a light green primer/base coat followed by an airbrushing of black to represent deeper wear, as seen at the bottom of the billboard’s rear. Several light oil washes were used to further age the wood. I used a pin to add nail holes, adding the same rust effect paint I used on the trusses above.





I followed George’s instructions on scoring and peeling the sign to resemble individual sections. I think it really makes the sign pop. I added some pastel chalks here and there and the sign was fixed to the roof.

Next up was the small peaked roof. I cut it out from the card and then I cut and painted all the corrugated panels (which is the opposite way around that George suggests -- paint then cut):



I airbrushed a standard brown primer first, then Model Air’s “Hull Red”. I added some black to the mix, making a black-brown, and then roughly airbrushed the ends of each panel to vary the wear effect.

Then, a combination of cheap craft paints were very, very lightly sponged on. I used Raw Sienna, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Dark Pumpkin. These were finished with pastel chalks.





I added some green pastel chalks and also curled some of the panel edges. This got me here:



That's it for now. Next up will be the water tank and office side structure.
Craig
rr@keepitrusty.com
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postalkarl

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #259 on: February 22, 2021, 06:21:05 PM »
Hey Craig:

The rooves look just great. Fine looking detail. Billboard look great also.

Karl
« Last Edit: February 22, 2021, 07:08:38 PM by postalkarl »

Jerry

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #260 on: February 23, 2021, 08:31:50 AM »
Craig some really nice work on the billboard & roof.


The roof panel are they metal ones??


Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #261 on: February 23, 2021, 08:37:57 AM »
Karl, Jerry — thank you for your kind comments.

And yes, Jerry, those are the included metal panels :)
Craig
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Bernd

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #262 on: February 23, 2021, 12:34:23 PM »
Craig,

Just stopped by to see how you're doing on this project.

Very impressive modeling. The weathering is outstanding. Great little details make it look so great.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #263 on: February 23, 2021, 01:42:40 PM »
Thanks Bernd! This entire harbor is well worn, so I’m enjoying the weathering process. I do love beating up an otherwise healthy structure ;)
Craig
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SteveCuster

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #264 on: February 23, 2021, 03:19:14 PM »
Looks great Craig! Both the roof and the billboard look excellent.
-Steve Custer

postalkarl

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #265 on: February 23, 2021, 03:45:06 PM »
Hey Craig:

Looks like you used A different Billboard then the one that comes with the kit. Here's the one I used. It's one of my favorites.

Karl

Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #266 on: February 23, 2021, 03:47:20 PM »
Thanks Steve! Really appreciate you stopping by.

Karl, I used the included billboard (well, one of them). In fact, it's the very same one that George used for his original model :)

That's a cool alternative though!
Craig
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Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #267 on: February 27, 2021, 12:52:43 AM »
Picking up where I left off — I started with the small office building on tall stilt legs.

As this is pretty similar to the main building in terms of materials and technique, I thought I’d instead highlight what each of my stain steps look like. I use thin/light stains in multiple layers, so any and all effect takes a while to achieve. The process can look messy. The following photos were taken with the stain still wet, but it highlights the staggered, almost striped like fashion they are applied. This is done to achieve variations almost board by board (without losing my mind in the process)

One thing of note, and something I contend with frequently, is the different cuts of wood used for the clapboard in kits. The temperature of the wood can change drastically, making uniformity very hard to achieve. The issues can be seen across the three following panels for the office, especially in the right hand wall here. Notice how much cooler it is in temp?









Again, from top to bottom: light A&I pass, Driftwood pass, light gray pass, extra light Golden Brown pass & A&I again on lifted clapboards.

Here’s the finished office:





Then I turned my attention to the water tower on the “peaked roof”:



I used the same technique on the lid as I did with the doors on the main building. First, a light beige base/primer coat. Then I used a few thin coats of a brown oil wash. With thinners, I subtracted from the areas I wanted to stay light. When it was dry, I did a thin black oil pass to highlight the detail.

After everything was dry, I painted the metal detail parts with dark silver and then further weathered with pastel chalks to simulate mold and mildew around the hatch.





Rust, as seen on the supply pipe in the image above and below, was achieved using an awesome product from a company in the UK called “Dirty Down”. I use this product a lot for any surface rust. It dries like the real thing. See below for an image of the bottle.





With the water tower complete, I started on the elevator/bell tower.

I painted the clocks a bronze and decided to add a verdigris effect. I figure these clocks face the elements day-in-day-out, so it’s likely the bronze would have this heavy patina. The verdigris was achieved with a combination of paints, all of which were carefully stippled on.



The bell was colored in a similar way, although the verdigris effect was far lighter, given that the bell is sheltered in the tower (unlike the clock faces!).
The bell supports were painted to represent heavy, worn iron.



The door was painted alongside all the other doors at the start of the build. This ensured uniformity. All I did was add pastel chalk weathering and I installed the casting into the walls. It’s satisfying to not slow down on construction to paint a single casting...



The railings and posts, colored similarly to the cornice, were carefully added next, followed by the shingled roof. Until the corner strips on the roof were added, it actually looked like a hot mess. It’s amazing how these little 1/8″ strips of brown bag paper tidies everything up.

The roof was painted with an aged white and then a dark brown oil wash toned everything down.





With the office, elevator and water tower all complete, this brings the build to this stage below — which is approximately 55% complete:

« Last Edit: February 27, 2021, 10:05:37 AM by Rusty Robot »
Craig
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Dennis Bourey

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #268 on: February 27, 2021, 09:10:35 AM »
Craig, You really out did yourself. I love the rust effects, And all the explanation of the work.I wont spend $40 for shipping (I'm cheap) lol I hope I can find it here or something close?  Bottle of that dirty down is on my want list. but my God it does a  (Beautiful Job) Thanks....Dennis
Lake's Region RR


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Rusty Robot

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Re: “Rocky Point Harbor” - an F&SM Tribute
« Reply #269 on: February 27, 2021, 09:25:22 AM »
Thanks Dennis. And I agree, it does work well.

That said, I only use it on small detail parts. Larger things like my roofing panels are “scratch” painted, as layering is the key to good rust effects (as it is with all painting). Naturally, layering on fine detail castings, pipes etc, is incredibly difficult so a product like this does work wonders there.

I don’t think they have a US-based supplier, but I paid $7 for shipping from one of their UK-based suppliers :)
Craig
rr@keepitrusty.com
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