Fountain Brewery kitbash #2 - 2021 winter build challenge

Started by Mark Dalrymple, December 31, 2020, 03:19:21 PM

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Mark Dalrymple

QuoteHey Mark:

Looking good so far.

Thanks, Karl.

By the way lots of people seem to be running off to buy this kit or searching their closets for it, its not just me who thinks its a cool kit.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

Hi guys.

Next step was to cut one of my cast walls down the center to use as the two internal walls.  As one will be a gable wall and one a side wall, I also had to do a horizontal cut at the top.  Once I had done this, again using my trusty builders knife and scriber, I measured and cut a small rectangle of Wills plasticard brick and glued it in the top window opening.

Photo 1 - shows the two new wall sections.

Photo 2 - shows the bricked-in window.

I then started the gluing process.  Each piece was checked, and often temporarily clamped together, and sanded where necessary in an attempt to get as nice a joint as possible.  When ready, I mixed up some two part epoxy (its difficult not to mix up too much), added this to the edge of the internal gable wall and ran a bead of CA along the base section edge.  I put the base on my cutting mat on a piece of lunch paper and attached the internal gable wall and the center back wall of the kit,  I made sure to hold the base flat and the bottom of the two walls nice and tight and held in position for approximately 45 seconds.  Although I found the resin almost impossible to glue together using CA, when gluing resin to styrene, CA seems to work fine.  I don't, however, trust it to hold fast when undue strain goes on, and so always add some strip wood bracing to the internal edge of the base and walls using two part epoxy.  Unfortunately, by the time I had finished adjusting and clamping the two walls together, the 2 part epoxy mix on my styrene offcut was past its working time and I had to mix up some more for the bracing.  I then repeated this process, adding the other internal side wall.

Photo 3 - shows the first walls clamped together.  I cut and added rectangles of styrene to help keep things square and brace against the stress of the clamping.

After the two hours set time I carried on gluing the left side front wall (which is the back wall of the kit) in place and then the right front gable wall in place.  The same process was used and stripwood added to the internal corners and the intersection of the base and walls.  So far, all the walls have been pretty true, so there has been no need address warpage problems.  I can see moving forwards there is one wall that will need attention.

Photo 4 - shows the left front wall glued and clamped.  You can see I added some fairly beefy wood bracing to the spliced wall to give it some extra strength.

Photo 5 - shows the right gable front wall glued and clamped.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

 

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteThis is coming along very nicely.

Thanks, Curt.

Its nice to see so many new builds underway!

Cheers, Mark.

ACL1504

Cheers Mark,

Not sure why I missed this thread until now but here I am and ready to follow as well. I have two of the Magnuson Fountain Brewery kits and plan on kit bashing them. No idea in mind yet. I definitely like what you are doing here.

Tom  ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteNot sure why I missed this thread until now but here I am and ready to follow as well. I have two of the Magnuson Fountain Brewery kits and plan on kit bashing them. No idea in mind yet. I definitely like what you are doing here.

Thanks, Tom.

Pleased to have you following along.  I think at this time of the year there are always so many new build threads going that threads get shunted pretty quickly from the top of the list, and so are easy to miss.  I'll look forward to your Fountain Brewery kitbash in the future.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

Hi guys.

Next I cut the kit side wall vertically to get a side wall for the right end of the structure.  This wall was quite warped - both vertically and horizontally.  I tried putting it on a flat surface in the oven on a low heat for half an hour.  I then removed it, and weighted it down on the granite benchtop (on some lunch paper) and left to cool.  Once cool I removed the weights.  I could see the wall was flat, but within seconds it resorted to its old shape.  I've read up some more on this, and it seems hot (but not boiling) water is the way to go, so I will try that next time.  I opted to epoxy and clamp an offcut from one of the City Classics walls horizontally and at right angles near the bottom of the wall.  I figure once the bow is removed this way I should be able to get the vertical bow out when gluing the wall intersection together.  Past experience has shown me that with these kinds of warps on this kind of resin, the glue needs to fully cure rather than set.  If you remove the clamps too soon, the brace will slowly detach from the wall as it resumes its old shape. 

Photo 1 - shows the side wall cut.

The side wall was also a little short, so I opted to cut the top beveled section off and add a strip of Wills plasticard to the bottom to represent a block foundation wall.

Photo 2 shows the splicing of the two walls.

The front tall wall to the right of the structure on a 45 degree angle has room for a vehicle entrance off one of the surrounding roads.  I measured the height of the road in the model room and then cut an opening for a freight door in the side of one of my castings.  I opted to put the freight door at a loading bay height, as I felt it suited the other windows heights in the wall better.  I cut the door off an offcut off one of my back City Classics walls, filed it down until the sides were removed and added framing, a lintel and a sill in styrene.  I painted the framing in textured gel to represent plastered concrete.

Photo 3 - shows the new freight door installed.

The final one of my castings I cut in half horizontally and then cut a gable on the top of the bottom half.  The top piece will be the wall opposite the tall, angled wall, a large part of which is hidden under ground (road) level.  This I will turn into a shop front.  The bottom section of my cast wall will be spliced together with other material to make the gable opposite the left end gable.

Photo 4 - shows the cast wall cut up.

Photo 5 - shows the left end gable being glued to the sub-assembly.  You can see I have cut a back wall out of City Classics scrap material.  This wall will remain removable until later in the construction process.

More soon, cheers, Mark.



Mark Dalrymple

Hi guys.

The shop front gable opposite the tall gable needed the bottom window expanded to fit a front door.  I cut and filed until a had a good fit.

Photo 1 - shows the expanded window.

Photo 2 - shows the door fitted.

The glue on the warped resin wall had cured.  I clamped a piece of thick, straight timber to the wall vertically at the right end to remove the vertical bow on both the inside and outside of the wall.  I then went about gluing and clamping the side wall to the front right gable.  I then added the tall angled gable.  The left side of this wall had to be filed to 45 degrees where it intersected with the side wall. 

Photo 3 - shows the side wall added and the tall gable wall glued and clamped.  You can see I left the vertical piece of timber in position on both the inside and outside side wall.  This I used as a clamping point for the 45 degree wall.  The outside wall clamped timber gave me a stock to line the wall up with.  I also spliced a piece of City Classics wall to the bottom of this wall to get the desired height.

Photo 4 - shows the 45 degrees side wall being glued and clamped.  This wall was fabricated from a City Classics back wall.  It will be pretty well impossible to see on the layout.

Photo 5 - shows the structure so far from the back.  You can see the inner floor sitting in front of it.  When ever I make slight adjustments to the base, I make the same adjustment to the inner floor.  You can also see the piece of scrap City Classics wall keeping the side wall dewarped.  Strip wood has been run around the walls near the top of the structure for the inner floor.  Its at about this time that I need to start thinking about how to make some of the last walls removable for access for for glazing, blinds etc. 

Next was the gable wall to be built at the left end of the central recessed pert of the structure.  I started by splicing City Classics walls offcuts to gain the right height, allowing for the gable end detail.  I then cut strips of 1.5mm, 1mm and .5mm styrene, cleaned these up, and stacked them using CA with a slight staggered quirk.  I angle cut these to match the angle of the gable and glued them together at the apex and to the top of the gable wall.  There was some careful measuring and trimming of both the top of this gable and the existing inner gable of the left sub-assembly to get the walls fitting and in the right position.

Photo 6 - shows the short angled gable and the inner gable glued in position.  You can see at this stage I still have access to the interior of the structure.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Keep It Rusty

Very nice, Mark.

Strong, are your kit bashing skills.


PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteStrong, are your kit bashing skills.

Thanks Craig.  I think half the battle is getting use to cutting up perfectly good walls. I think the other half is to photocopy the walls and do a paper kitbash first.  That way you know you should be happy with the end result.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark Dalrymple

QuoteNice job Mark

Thanks, Curt.  Its starting to come together.

Cheers, Mark.

S&S RR

Yes, strong bashing skills.  It's looking great Mark.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

postalkarl

Hey Mark:

Looking just great. Can't wait to see more.

Karl

ACL1504

Cheers, Mark,

This is really coming together. I love all the angles and kit bashing. Wonderful stuff.

Tom  ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

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