Fos Scale Bandit's Roost Build

[craftsmankits]

Here's a shot of the other side with the large rooftop sign and tarpaper shed installed.  For the corrugated roof, I use Campbell's.  I prefer it over the paper ones provided with the kit.  Both have their advantages, but I feel the Campbell's is more to scale.  I prime them with grey auto primer on both sides.  Then use a thin wash of black craft paint.  I'll also do the edges on the underside where appropriate.  I apply the afore mentioned Charcoal Grey craft paint, and apply the weathering powders directly over the paint.  I try to use the darker colors towards the bottom, and the lighter fresh rust towards the top.  It makes for a fairly quick and easy application.  Once it's dry, I'll apply some pan pastels where necessary.  I use a light tan or white on some of the panels to better highlight the rust colors.  I sometimes drybrush a light grey upon the panels before using the pan pastels.  Like anything in this hobby, there are a hundreds of methods to do any project.

[craftsmankits]

Groovy.


Thats a huge complex. You must have a large layout for it.


Jaime

No layout yet.  That happens after the move.  I'm building dioramas, and per the Bob Van Gelder method of South River Model Works, will build the layout around them when that time comes.

[postalkarl]

Hey:

That kit is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work.

Karl

[PRR Modeler]

Great looking build.

[ACL1504]

Beautiful build all the way. I really like the rear door with the rust. Great job.

Tom 

[madharry]

Really nice job on the building. I have this kit to build sometime so thanks for pointing out the wrinkles.
Mike

[craftsmankits]

Great looking build.

Beautiful build all the way. I really like the rear door with the rust. Great job.

Tom 

Really nice job on the building. I have this kit to build sometime so thanks for pointing out the wrinkles.
Mike

Hey:

That kit is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work.

Karl

Thanks to everyone.  Up next is the annex to the Harrison and Rochelle.  As before, I don't have many in-process photos.  I started this before I decided to post the build.

Here is a shot of the Campbell's corrugated roofing.  After cutting them to size, I primed them with grey Rustoleum.  Then gave them a wash of thinned black craft paint.  Next, once dry, I applied thinned Charcoal Grey craft paint, and applied the various rust colored pigments directly over the paint.  It's a fairly quick process.  These are brand new Campbell's corrugated, and when I tried to use Radio Shacks Ferric Chloride on some of them, it ate them up so fast I couldn't save them.  The ones that I managed to pull out in time were transparent.  It just ate them alive.  I didn't have problems in the past with this method, so maybe somethings changed on Campbell's end.

[craftsmankits]

Here is the annex with the roof panels added, along with an used vent from a South River Model Works kit.  This is the final structure outlined in the directions for this kit.  The only issues I had were the building of the second and third floors.  It's not mentioned in the directions to leave yourself the ability to include the corner posts open on the second and third floors.  I built each section separately, and if you look closely, you'll notice the corner posts end at each floor level on the clapboard end.  I built all three sections on their own, and stacked them. 

I recommend building the second and third floor, combining them, then adding your roofing and vents etc.  Then adding the first floor support posts, and adding the small staircase access, the first floor last.  I didn't use the cut out template provided with the kit when making up the supports.  If you do use the cut out template, your cutting of the posts and supports must be spot on.  I recommend using the printed template included on instruction sheet B.  It allows you some leeway if you're post cutting isn't perfect.     

[craftsmankits]

For the second floor I used Americana Indian Turquoise DA087 applied with a sponge over two or three coats of India Ink and alcohol.  Next, I added some white craft paint to the Turquoise to bring it down a shade or two, then sponged on this 'custom' color sparingly.  On the second floor, with the clapboard siding, I applied AK Interactive Heavy Chipping fluid over the India Ink stained wood in two thin coats.  Brush applied some white, let it dry, then applied a thin coat of water, and used a toothpick to remove the paint for chipping.  I used AK Interactive Streaking Grime AK012 and Moss Deposits AK676 over selected areas on the structure, moving them about with odorless Turpenoid, along with adding some weathering powders.

[craftsmankits]

Next up is Curtis Gas.  I could use some help/advice on the stucco.  I've used Liquitex Modeling Paste in the past, and I've heard of a Rustoleum spray product that replicates stucco.  Included with the kit is a bag of water putty.  Never used it before, so any experience/advice would be appreciated.  Here's another shot of the annex.

[ReadingBob]

Next up is Curtis Gas.  I could use some help/advice on the stucco.  I've used Liquitex Modeling Paste in the past, and I've heard of a Rustoleum spray product that replicates stucco.  Included with the kit is a bag of water putty.  Never used it before, so any experience/advice would be appreciated.  Here's another shot of the annex.

That looks absolutely wonderful!  I have a few things I want to try now based on your results.   

Regarding using the water putty for the stucco.  I like it but I apply it a little differently than what the instructions typically call for.  The instructions call for mixing the powder with water until you get a peanut butter like consistency and then dabbing it on with a stiff, short bristled brush.  First off the powder is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty.  I bought a can of it 20+ years ago for $2 or $3 dollars and still have more than half a can left.  Instead of mixing it with water I use a cheap craft store acrylic paint that will be my finish color and dispense a blob of that onto a palette of some sort.  Then I take my brush, dip it in the paint and then dip it in the powder.  I mix the two together on the palette adding more paint or more putty until I get a thinner consistency than called for in the instructions.  I mix just enough to start working on the wall.  I mix more as I go.  I try to get a tooth paste like consistency or maybe a bit thinner.  Then I start dabbing it on the wall.  I prefer a thin coat vs. a heavy thick coat.  Really I'm just turning the paint into a textured paint with this method.  If you pick up a can of the water putty you'll have more than enough to practice on a piece of scrap wood, cardboard, etc. until you get a feel for it.  Hope this helps.

I found this picture from a previous build thread I did that may give a little feel for what I'm trying to describe above. 
 

[craftsmankits]

Thanks Bob.  I'll give that a try.  I'm keeping track of your Moscone Bail Bonds build.  Very interested to see how that comes out.  I have the Durham's Rock Hard Putty from a SRMW build from over six years ago.  It was my first large craftsman kit build.  Delabarre Woolens.

I'm planning on priming the inside walls, assembling the building completely, laying in the window sills, then fixing all the gaps with putty or lightweight spackling.  Priming that, then hitting it with the stucco mix.  I'll try it out tonight on some scrap material.

Thanks again, for your suggestion.  Mark   

[Opa George]

Mark, I definitely recommend a bit of practice with the water putty before going on to your main event.  I struggle with it even after several builds.  But that's not to say don't use it.  Bob gets great results with his method.

--Opa George

[craftsmankits]

Mark, I definitely recommend a bit of practice with the water putty before going on to your main event.  I struggle with it even after several builds.  But that's not to say don't use it.  Bob gets great results with his method.

--Opa George

Thanks, I was waiting for Reading Bob's Bail Bonds update, but ended up doing it myself.  Found Reading Bob's method to work very well.

[craftsmankits]

If you've been following this build, I'm sorry for the lack of updates, but my phone was giving me photo problems, and I'm still unable to post in-process pictures of the Curtis gas station, and Erickson Livery builds.  The gas station build is pretty straight forward, but the directions fail to mention the foundation.  I used Reading Bob's method of applying the stucco finish, and thought the results were very close to prototypical.  Thanks to Bob for your reply, I'll use this stucco method again.  I used lightweight spackle to fill the gaps.  Then applied the the stucco finish. 

I installed my light block, then placed the roof onto the structure before applying the stucco, since I wanted the stucco on the overhang.  Of course, that left me vulnerable to applying the windows from the 'outside', which could be a bit of a challenge.  Thankfully, the thin stucco, and the size of the windows allowed me to apply the windows with little difficulty from the outside.

Doug placed the Curtis sign horizontal, but I installed it rising upwards towards the right.  I like that look a little better.  I used a B.E.S.T chimney, and some brass pipe for vents on the roof.  A fun little build that took more evenings to finish than I anticipated. 

If there is one thing I would've done differently, it was add some seams to the large DX Fast Service sign.

I intend to add a roof access near the rear of the Curtis structure.  Haven't found the right fit.

Here are some fresh pictures I was able to upload today.