2021 Build challenge. Act III

Started by Zephyrus52246, January 28, 2021, 02:29:47 PM

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Zephyrus52246

Signs were applied with full strength Elmer's glue.  Then using a fingernail wrapped in a plastic bag (to prevent tearing the sign), the sign was pushed onto the clap boards.  After drying a light drybrushing of grey and off white were used.  Had a small tear on one of the top edge signs which was, fortunately, easily repaired while the glue was still wet.  The yellow sign had a small area which rubbed off, I think I sanded them a bit too thin.  I then applied a black wash.  I should have done an unseen wall area, as it was really too dark when I was finished, though I knew it would dry lighter.  But I was quite anxious as it didn't seem to be lightening.  It finally did, but still a bit too dark (like the edges of the yellow sign).  I can live with it.  Some areas on the flat walls dried kind of circular as well, I think we'll try gently trying to remove some of this.

Jeff

ACL1504

Jeff,

The walls and signs look wonderfully weathered. Great job.

Tom  ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

ReadingBob

Agreed.  The signs are very well done.  This one's going to be a beauty when you get it together.  ;)
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Zephyrus52246

Thanks, gentlemen.  I'm presently adding the doors, windows and signs on the walls while they are flat.  Cutting out the signs is kinda laborious, especially the circular ones.  I also noticed a window installed upside down.   ::)  Some stripwood added at the top of the walls so the frieze boards went on as flat as possible.  The windows are still too red compared to the rest of the weathering, so I'm going to try a bit of chalk or Pan pastels on them. 


Jeff

Mark Dalrymple

Looking really good, Jeff.

I think the signs came out great.  I often tone my windows down with a dusting of white chalk.

Cheers, Mark.

Zephyrus52246

Thanks, Mark.  I used some light grey Pan pastels applied sparingly with a brush to the trim and it turned out well.  Didn't disappear with the matte fixative I sprayed on as well.  Looks better than the picture, my photography skills are not improving, even after all these years. 


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The large garage door is made up of three separate doors, each of which has a front and back piece.  Together they are just a smidgen smaller than the opening.  I used some of the leftover carrier sheet to make further edges to enable it to be glued to the back of the opening.  The picture also shows the stripwood piece used to make it easier to attach the frieze board.  Windows up next.

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Zephyrus52246

Thanks a lot, Curt.


I put in the windows and shades.  I found some microscope cover slips a few weeks ago while searching for something else, and decided I'd follow Idaho Bob's advice and try them.  I had nothing to cut them with, though I did break one to fit  between some bracing.  I just glued them to the back of the wall, they are a mm or so behind the window frames, but you really can't notice.  I six different shades of green until I found the one I liked for the shades.  Again, just glued on the back of the windows.  Easy Peasy.  I will try to get a scribe to see if I can actually try fitting the glass in the future.  I need to check the instructions, but I think it's time to put the walls together.   :)


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

Back at this after 2 weeks.  Had a couple of minor hiccups which I'll put in the next post.  I started doing the board by board addition.  Basically cut 2x10s and glue them to one of the cardboard walls.  The instructions don't mention this, but I remember this from a Sierra West build.  You want to make sure the corners match by overlapping the siding on one edge, otherwise if you go to the end of the wall, the edges of both boards will show.  Glue one board to the edge of one piece, then attach the wall and then glue the first board on that wall to the edge.  I doubt the boards on any wall will be an exact fit, so decide where you want the narrow board to be.  I like it offset rather than the center or edge, so start gluing boards from the other edge as well.

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

All right troops!  Major Bonehead here.  I made two mistakes (so far) on the walls.  On the clapboard walls, I did the nailholes, cutting in ends of boards, etc BEFORE the walls were painted.  So...the paint basically filled them in.  DOH!  It looks OK, but could have been better.  You may have noticed on the board by board addition, I forgot to paint the boards before gluing them on.  Double DOH!  I'll just wash them with white, trying to do each individual board, and then do the grey sponge painting to make it look like peeling paint, but I think they would have looked better done individually.  Anyway, windows/door are in on the other addition and it's time to paint the board by board sections. 

Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The three "additions" are finished.  The center one is covered with corrugated metal.  I need to do the roof and then paint/stain on the rust colors.  One of the additions has the same roofing, so I may wait to paint/stain this until that roof is ready as well.  It's the paper material, which I prefer over the metal.  It's easier to cut and no shiny spots that always seem to creep up. 


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

The main structure is starting to come together as well. 


Jeff

Zephyrus52246

My frieze boards were a little to thick and had to be trimmed back to fit bracing, etc. Notice this at the corners and the center of the top wall in this pic.
I did this with a fine tooth razor saw and xacto blades.  When readying this pic I noticed the HUGE gap on the "Bernard's" sign wall on the left.  It's presently drying from being re glued.   ::)


Jeff

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