Clearfield Cheese Clinton Mo

[Oldguy]

What I like about Monster Model Works block and brick sheets are his corners.  Just pay attention to the sheet orientation and the B at the bottom of the corner and the joint wont be that noticeable.

 I ordered several different sizes of windows to see what would work/look the best besides some different dock doors.   The larger windows just looked a bit big and I compared them to some slightly smaller windows in hand and compared the two.  Son of a  . . . . .  They are the same freakin' window,  Welp, Grant Line (the black units) measure the overall exterior dimension while the Tichy measures the window itself or interior dimensions.  Thus a Grandt 42x72 is the same window as a Tichy 38x68.

Now I could convert a cased wood window to a masonry unit, but I'll just choose from what I got.  I may hate myself later, but I need to move along.  To determine what looks the best, I needed to cut out for the recessed lower entry.  Just make sure that it got sized to receive the corner pieces.  The 8/8 seem to be a bit big, so I'll go with the 6/6.  The pencil lines on the left are where the enclosed exterior steps will go.  That and there will be a canopy across the front.

Now, let's see how long my Army Painter white spray paint take to get here.

[Oldguy]

The block sheet is a full 1/8" thick basswood(?), so one has to be a bit of careful to get openings correct.  Once laid out, I use light pencil lines to layout the openings.  I then make little circles in the corners as a locate point and drill them out close to the edges as I dare.  Read - where ever the drill bit decides to make a hole with in the lines.  Then I take an X0Acto hole saw and connect the dots.  I then choose whichever side the saw got the closest to as my vertical base line.  These windows span horizontal joint line to joint line, so that really helps.  Then, carefully crave and file one side first and ensure that it is as straight as possible, then move to the other side and do the same until the width is just slightly tight on the window frame.  Then do the same on the top and bottoms, but as these are with the grain, they are much easier.  When they get installed, I'll need to find a spacer for to center the depth in the wall.

The left side pencil line is for the exterior staircase.  This will be made out of clapboard siding.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Nice, neat window fitting!

Cheers, Mark.

[EricQuebec]

Good start on this one.
I will follow.
Eric

[Oldguy]

Been slow going.  Messing things up will slow progress.

I really wanted to use some Rail Scale Models doors on this one.  I did a bit of testing and chose one.  This was a test for the door going upstairs.  Fit better than I thought.  NO winder as this part was way off.  Matter of fact the entire staircase was wrong.  So It had to be rebuilt.  I forgot to take a picture of it as it was drying after a A&I bath.

I also built a foundation out of 0.06" plastic strips.  But it maybe off as well.


Seems at this point I needed just to get the walls together.  First, I needed to a some 4x8 window lintels.  With that done, it was a matter of rigging some Lego corners to keep three of the walls square.  There will be two inner wall braces made of 3/16" foam core.  I left one out for now as I still need to add the first floor entry inset.

The left wall is a bit wonky as the front wall is longer than the back wall.  The back wall arch results in the left wall being taller in back than in the front.

Once this all dries, I can spray them with gray primer and once that dries, I 'll paint them white.  The doors and window are red, so they'll have to be added after the walls are done.