Author Topic: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0  (Read 728 times)

Janbouli

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 2248
  • Karma: +12/-0
    • View Profile
    • Janbouli's Hobbysite
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2018, 06:02:24 PM »
I love photo's, don't we all.

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2018, 08:06:03 PM »
Jan,
That is a photo of the Delaware & Ulster Rail Ride's diesel rail car.  It was painted like and named for the Delaware & Northern car.  The DURR operates a tourist train in both directions on the former Ulster & Delaware tracks out of Arkville, NY, the point where the D&N interchanged with the U&D. 
« Last Edit: February 07, 2018, 10:29:31 AM by jerryrbeach »
Jerry

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #17 on: February 06, 2018, 08:21:42 PM »
I thought I would take a moment to explain my high tech lighting solution to a portable layout.  As I mentioned in my introductory post, at this time, the layout resides in my dining room.  Like most dining rooms, the lighting consists primarily of a chandelier in the center of the room. 

My original thought was to run a 1x2 or 1x3 vertically up the rear of the modules behind the Masonite backdrop and use the clamp on lights. I had planned to fasten it to the cross brace for the legs using a spacer, and screw it to the rear frame member of the table.
 
Then it occurred to me it would be easier to balance the lights to eliminate shadows if I could move them horizontally after I had installed them.  I looked for and found the quart of wall paint I had saved for touchup.  That made it an easy decision to hunt up a spare piece of 2x3, locate the studs behind the sheet rock and use three screws to attach the 2x3 to the wall.  When I move the layout, a little spackle and a quick touchup and the wall will be good as new, or at least no worse than it was before. 

I strongly recommend that you not try this shortcut unless you have no significant other to answer to.
Jerry

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2018, 10:28:37 AM »
The backdrop is made from 1/8" Masonite.  Quarter inch thick Masonite would probably be better because it is less flexible, but the lumber for this project has already wreaked havoc on my modeling budget, so I went with what I had on hand.

As part of this I have one corner module.  Once I had the Masonite screwed in place with one piece overlapping the end of the other piece, I needed to fasten them securely to keep them in alignment.  I went to my pile of saved lumber and dug out a piece of 1/4" Masonite paneling.  I ripped a couple pieces 2 1/2" wide the height of the backdrop and glued and nailed them together at a 90 degree angle.  I then glued them to the back of the corner, fastening them to the module frame with a screw, and using clamps to hold the top tight until the glue dried. 

The other seams are held in alignment by 2" wide pieces of 1/8" Masonite with a 1" x 2" wide block glued to the top edge.  I then glued a 2" x 2" piece of Masonite onto the 1" x 2" block making a 1" deep socket that I slid over the top edge where the backdrop panels meet.  I used a screw to fasten the bottom of this piece to the back frame rail.  I used no glue for this, so after removing the screw, the modules and backdrop simply pull apart.  The blocks show at the very top of the backdrop, but I do not find them objectionable. 

Jerry

GPdemayo

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 3531
  • Karma: +5/-1
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2018, 02:47:15 PM »
Hey Jerry.....you're making Rube Goldberg proud.  ;D ;D ;D
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #20 on: February 08, 2018, 09:05:49 AM »
Greg,

It's a well kept secret that Rube honed his craft as my apprentice. Ssshh.  Don't tell!

Follow along for lots more simple solutions to complex problems.
Jerry

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2018, 09:19:30 AM »
I decided to try using 1" foam under the tracks on this layout.  I have always used Homasote in the past but decided to change it up.  My thinking was that the foam would be easier to remove to allow for some variation in the terrain.

I used a tube of Liquid Nails latex construction adhesive to bond the foam to the plywood.  I protected the top of the foam using the 1/4" plywood pieces I had removed from a prior construction effort.  As you can see, I got pretty creative when finding weights to hold everything down. I don't know if it was necessary, but I left the weights in place overnight.

After removing the weights, I found some of the foam panels had slightly different heights where they met.  Out came the sander and in just a few minutes the joints were much better.  While this did create a little dust, most of it was caught by the bag on the sander.

One thing I had not realized until I started measuring is that 2' x 8' foam sheets really aren't.  The ones I have are more like 23 3/4" x 95 1/2".  In order to have the edges line up exactly with the ends of the modules, there was a place where the sheets did not meet tightly in the center of the module.  I filled this gap with some Dap Dry Dex joint compound.  This filler starts out pink and turns white when it is dry.  It took a couple coats to get it nice and even.  I used a wet sponge to clean up (wet sand?) any excess after it dried. 
Jerry

GPdemayo

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 3531
  • Karma: +5/-1
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2018, 09:22:00 AM »
Greg,

It's a well kept secret that Rube honed his craft as my apprentice. Ssshh.  Don't tell!

Follow along for lots more simple solutions to complex problems.


You're secret is safe with me..... ;)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2018, 09:23:17 AM »
Now I'm at a point where I'm a little stuck.

In the past I have simply chosen a color that looked like blue sky and painted the backdrop a uniform blue color. 

I would like to try to blend some white into the blue and lighten the sky as it gets closer to the horizon.  I've watched a couple videos on how to do this, but I'm looking for any tips that might make this easier for a rookie.  Anyone done this?  Any tips?
Jerry

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #24 on: February 08, 2018, 09:24:06 AM »
Greg,

It's a well kept secret that Rube honed his craft as my apprentice. Ssshh.  Don't tell!

Follow along for lots more simple solutions to complex problems.


You're secret is safe with me..... ;)

Thanks, I'll sleep a lot better tonight.
Jerry

deemery

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 1651
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #25 on: February 08, 2018, 10:24:22 AM »
Now I'm at a point where I'm a little stuck.

In the past I have simply chosen a color that looked like blue sky and painted the backdrop a uniform blue color. 

I would like to try to blend some white into the blue and lighten the sky as it gets closer to the horizon.  I've watched a couple videos on how to do this, but I'm looking for any tips that might make this easier for a rookie.  Anyone done this?  Any tips?
Here's a thought, try this on some scrap before going for real:  Get both white paint and sky blue paint.  Put a relatively thin band of white paint (water the paint a little bit) along the horizon.  Then dip your brush into the blue paint, start at the bottom and pull up to the top of the sky.  The idea is to mix the still wet white paint in with the blue paint.  You'll probably want a roller to even things out.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

jbvb

  • Senior Poster 250+
  • ****
  • Posts: 477
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Modeling the B&M's Eastern Route in HO 1950 - 1965
    • View Profile
    • New England RR History & Modeling Info
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2018, 12:11:38 PM »
Dave's proposal sounds like it would work. What I did on my own layout was start out with Sherwin Williams 'Baby Blue' (a pretty light blue) for the base coat and paint a stripe of much darker blue at the top, then blend with mostly horizontal strokes.
James

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #27 on: February 09, 2018, 09:25:49 AM »
Now I'm at a point where I'm a little stuck.

In the past I have simply chosen a color that looked like blue sky and painted the backdrop a uniform blue color. 

I would like to try to blend some white into the blue and lighten the sky as it gets closer to the horizon.  I've watched a couple videos on how to do this, but I'm looking for any tips that might make this easier for a rookie.  Anyone done this?  Any tips?
Here's a thought, try this on some scrap before going for real:  Get both white paint and sky blue paint.  Put a relatively thin band of white paint (water the paint a little bit) along the horizon.  Then dip your brush into the blue paint, start at the bottom and pull up to the top of the sky.  The idea is to mix the still wet white paint in with the blue paint.  You'll probably want a roller to even things out.


dave

Dave,

I definitely planned to practice on some extra pieces of Masonite.  The demos I have seen started with the blue and added the white, blending the colors with a brush.  I have doubts I could do that without leaving brush marks.  I think starting with the white and using a roller are both good suggestions.  Thanks for your input.
Jerry

jerryrbeach

  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #28 on: February 09, 2018, 09:31:10 AM »
Dave's proposal sounds like it would work. What I did on my own layout was start out with Sherwin Williams 'Baby Blue' (a pretty light blue) for the base coat and paint a stripe of much darker blue at the top, then blend with mostly horizontal strokes.

James,

I'm still thinking this over, but I like your idea.  I might go with three colors, by mixing some white into a container of blue to give me a light blue rather than trying to blend the darker blue and white directly on the backdrop.  I'm thinking this might help me extend the drying time.  I am concerned that if I do not work quickly enough I could get myself in a mess.  Thanks for your suggestion.  I need to give this a little more thought, and then practice on a spare piece of Masonite.
Jerry

ACL1504

  • T-Shirt - FORUM SPONSOR
  • Modeler's Hero 500+ Posts
  • *
  • Posts: 12197
  • Karma: +6/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #29 on: February 09, 2018, 09:33:08 AM »
Jerry,

Looking great my friend. Very well done. I see you use the same type weights I do to hold the foam down. 8)


Tom ;D
If you hate plan A, you are certainly not going to like plan B!

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal