Author Topic: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0  (Read 737 times)

jerryrbeach

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Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #45 on: February 17, 2018, 07:38:44 AM »
Good looking feed store Jerry..... 8)

Thank you, Greg.  Compliments are always welcome!

I'm planning to find some time to work on the layout today, and maybe post an update.
Jerry

jerryrbeach

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Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #46 on: February 18, 2018, 09:59:47 AM »
The track gang has been busy, though there is still a long way to go before they will be done. 

I used three different methods to cut the track.  My favorite, and the fastest is to use the Xuron flush cutting pliers.  The drawback is that only one side cuts flush.  The other side of the cut is jagged and the rail has to be cut again to make the ends square. 

The Dremel requires a steady hand to get a clean vertical and square cut.  If done right, both ends of the cut rails do not need a second cut to be ready to be used. 

I used the Zona saw and miter box for one specific cut where I needed both rails to fit together exactly and the Dremel would have removed too much material, ditto the Xuron. 

I used the triangular file to nick the tops of the rail to mark the cut location.  I used the flat file to square the ends of the rail if necessary, and also to remove any burrs caused by the cut. 

Not pictured in this photo because I was wearing them are my safety glasses.  Obviously, when using the Dremel, safety glasses are a necessity.  I wear them when cutting with the Xuron pliers, too, short cutoff rail ends fly fast and in unpredictable directions.  In fact, I usually put them on when I start working on the layout, and leave them on until I stop.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2018, 10:13:51 AM by jerryrbeach »
Jerry

jerryrbeach

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Re: Delaware & Northern Construction version 1.0
« Reply #47 on: February 18, 2018, 10:12:01 AM »
I mentioned when describing the track planning that I had drawn the center line for the track onto the painted foam using the paper template.   I bonded the cork with the adhesive keeping it centered on the line.  This made it easy to align the track, as long as it is centered on the cork, everything fits as planned.  Once the cork was bonded in place, I used a sanding block with some 80 grit paper to sand the cork so that it was at a uniform height. 

First I would locate any turnouts, or other critical pieces, like the joints where the tables separate.  I would use some track nails to hold those pieces in place temporarily and measure and cut the adjacent tracks to length.  Once all pieces for one section were cut, I would test fit everything in place and make sure I had it as precise as possible. 

After that, I would lay it aside, lay down a bead of the latex caulk on the cork, spread the caulk thinly with a putty knife, then lay the track in place.  I would secure the track using track nails, most of which went back into the original holes I had made when test fitting everything.  After that, lots of weights and wait for the caulk to dry. 
Jerry

 

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