The Modeler's Forum

Forum Boards => Rolling Stock => Topic started by: CVSNE on September 11, 2017, 08:20:07 AM

Title: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 11, 2017, 08:20:07 AM
I thought I'd cover the process I use to build a flat-sided resin freight car kit, in this case a boxcar, and document it here. I also plan to document this same process over on my steam era freight car blog.
In keeping with the first post for any build tradition, here's the assortment of parts you find when you remove them from the box. This is fairly typical of a resin freight car - although this particular car has some additional parts not usually found in a standard boxcar kit.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-110917080526.jpeg)
You'll notice in the closeup image below, things like the gear mounting for the brakewheel, and the cylinders are included in the resin "sheet" - rather than mess around with trying to clean up the resin around these parts I usually replace them with aftermarket detail parts.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-110917080731.jpeg)
In another section, you'll notice the ladders/grabs are also included in the resin sheet - I think for this car I'm going to try and substitute the ladders with etched brass ladders - for better appearance and a much more rugged model.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-110917080552.jpeg)


I won't specify which kit this is - yet.
In fact I plan to build two versions of this car, one for the "as built" configuration and paint scheme (roughly, the mid-1920s) and the other a "modernized" version that shows how these cars looked in service in the late 1940s/early 1950s. (that's the version shown in this photos)


 
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: tct855 on September 11, 2017, 08:43:22 AM
Marty,
       I'm glued to this build.  I have about a half dozen resin car kits remaining to build.  I've built 2 and one plastic/resin kitbash.  Resin kits (being easy to flash remove) remind me of the early (old) metal cast kits (not so easy to flash remove) when I was an young adult (adult being used loosely here).  I'll be watchin Obe-Wan.   Thanx Thom...
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: bparrish on September 11, 2017, 11:32:47 AM
Marty...

Great start to a thread.  I have built several resin kits over the years and found the detail to be terrific.

I have had great success using super glue and the pace of construction is also fun, as compared to wood kits that require longer drying times for some steps.

At times I am angered with warped parts and no recourse as some manufacturers are no longer out there to provided replacement parts.  I have had fair success with pulling out some warps with interior structuring but that also has its limits.

Again thanx for starting this thread.

see ya
Bob
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: deemery on September 11, 2017, 12:09:42 PM
I've had good luck removing warp from resin parts by heating the oven to about 150, then turning the heat off.  I put the 'offending' part on a piece of granite (so it's definitely flat) and let it sit in the oven for a half hour or so.


dave
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: bparrish on September 11, 2017, 01:43:28 PM
Dave...

Great idea

thanx
Bob
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: tom.boyd.125 on September 12, 2017, 02:20:37 AM
Marty,
 Could use help building these resin car kits so will follow along to learn from the best... ;)
Tommy
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: ReadingBob on September 12, 2017, 07:52:23 AM
Marty,
 Could use help building these resin car kits so will follow along to learn from the best... ;)
Tommy

Ditto that.  I've built a few over the years with varying degrees of success.  I've got a few more in the stash to build someday.   ::)  Always looking for ways to improve.  Thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 12, 2017, 06:24:26 PM
I ended up working until almost 8:00pm last night, so the only thing I had time for before collapsing into bed (that 5:18 am train leaves early....!) was to clean the parts.
Different manufacturers use different mold releases - some of them are really hard to clean off completely - and you won't realize it's still there until you try to paint the model and the paint either beads up or comes off in sheets. Sylvan mold release is the toughest. No matter which manufacturer, I start by cleaning the parts before assembly, and then follow up with a pre-painting touch up cleaning. 
I've tried warm soapy water, Goo Gone, Sylvan resin prep (which I'm pretty sure is some form of Goo gone), but one thing I've found always works pretty well is Shout.


So, for this car, once I removed all the resin sheets from the tissue paper wrapping I gave each of the parts a shot of "Shout" (yes, the laundry stain pre-treat stuff) and scrubbed them gently with a toothbrush  before rinsing them under warm water. Then I put the parts aside to dry.


(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181157-245011502.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181157-245011502.jpeg)



Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: deemery on September 13, 2017, 10:04:10 AM
I've had great luck using a 10% solution of "Super Clean" (automotive cleaner section of Wal-Mart) for cleaning resin parts. That stuff also works great to clean the oven hood, so I got brownie points from the wife for that :-)  And I have a dollar store battery toothbrush that works great to clean around the cast-in details.


dave
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 13, 2017, 11:44:18 AM
Surprised to see no one has ventured a guess as the prototype for this car....I thought it would be easy to figure out.

Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: ACL1504 on September 13, 2017, 01:39:33 PM
Looks very similar to the FEC 1700 series ventilated boxcar from 1920. However, the FEC had a slightly different style side door.

Tom ;D
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 13, 2017, 02:33:08 PM
Tom,


Hope you came through the hurricane intact....
And you're very close but not quite right....
the answer should be very, very easy for you...




Looks very similar to the FEC 1700 series ventilated boxcar from 1920. However, the FEC had a slightly different style side door.

Tom ;D
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 13, 2017, 02:38:36 PM
I don't use a lot of fancy tools to build these kits, mostly a razor blade, an X-acto, some sanding sticks/files, pliers (to form wire), tweezers, a small machinists square, and in the starting in the last few years, an Opti-visor....
For drilling holes for grabs and brake components and the like, I prefer my drill press - but since it's packed up like the rest of the shop, this model will require the old fashioned (but perfectly serviceable) pin vise.


Two tools that I find are really useful are shown in the photo below:
The NWSL True-Sander
Coffman right corner clamps
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181157-245391748.jpeg)

Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: ACL1504 on September 13, 2017, 03:46:25 PM
Of course, the ACL Class O-17 17000-18999 series ventilated boxcars. How did I miss it? Thinking to much I guess.

Tom ;D
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: ACL1504 on September 13, 2017, 03:52:23 PM
Marty,

All is well here, lost power for 54 hours and no damage tot he house or the layout building.

Life is good.

Tom ;D
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 14, 2017, 09:55:58 AM
Marty,

All is well here, lost power for 54 hours and no damage tot he house or the layout building.

Life is good.

Tom ;D


Thrilled and relieved to hear that!


Best wishes,


Marty
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 14, 2017, 10:08:48 AM
Of course, the ACL Class O-17 17000-18999 series ventilated boxcars. How did I miss it? Thinking to much I guess.

Tom ;D


Actually, it's the Westerfield O-15 class ACL ventilated boxcar.

For those who don't know what a "ventilated" boxcar is, they were used to keep air movement through the car for shipping perishable items that didn't need to be refrigerated.  The most common nickname they had was "watermelon" cars - but they were used for all types of perishables.  Since they were basically standard boxcars with screen doors and solid doors on both sides of the car, they could be loaded up north and sent back to the south as a revenue generating move instead of an empty dead head movement.

The specific ACL cars were copies of the standard USRA double sheathed boxcar with steel ends (with vents), and the "double" doors on the side (one screen door, one standard door). (FEC had some very similar cars - those are also made by Westerfield).

https://id18538.securedata.net/westerfieldmodels.com/merchantmanager/product_info.php?cPath=143_337&products_id=412 (https://id18538.securedata.net/westerfieldmodels.com/merchantmanager/product_info.php?cPath=143_337&products_id=412)

I'm building two of them -
Kit 7001: The "as delivered" version (the yellow cars with the K type brakes)
Kit 7003 1940s-early 1950s version (with AB brakes).

Marty
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 15, 2017, 10:08:45 AM
A couple of tips -
It's somewhat unfortunate that some resin car kits, usuallly the one from a manufacture that most people encounter at a train show, have the worst instructions. (For years the running joke has been that a certain manufacturer's instructions all read: "(1) Open Box. (2) Build Car. (3) Paint and weather to suit. (4) Enjoy!"
Luckily most of them have improved their instructions - and a couple of manufacturers offer instructions and "guides" that make them the equivalent of SRMW instructions.
Westerfield's instructions fall somewhere in the middle. The photos are often fuzzy and make it hard to discern details, and since Westerfield offers a number of different variants of each kit based on era and/or road name, it's easy to get lost in the instructions. I've found it's a good idea to review the instructions and highlight the text that's applicable to the version of the car I'm building.

You'll quickly notice when building any resin freight car kit that the manufacturers often assume you know what the parts are, and the parts don't have any identifying markings on them. (A few manufacturers have started adding "keys" or diagrams that show what all the little pieces on the resin sheet are - but they're the exception).
Take for instance the ends of this car. At first glance they may look identical, but they're not. In this case the "B" (brake) end of the car has the retainer valve cast in place (indicated by the needle in the photo below).


(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181317.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181317.jpeg)


If you miss this, you could easily assemble the body with the brake end in the wrong place relative to the underframe - something you won't notice until it comes time to add the brake rodding.

The most tedious part of building a resin freight car is cleaning up the parts (It's a little like adding bracing to a wood structure kit...)
But time and care spent on this task definitely shows on the finished model. Despite what the instructions say, I don't clean off all the parts before I start constructing the model. For one thing, I'd run out of enthusiasm before getting started, and for another I'd likely lose half the parts before getting everything together!

If there's any trick to this removing the flash it's to be careful to not accidentally remove any detail that should be there. A perfect example is the sides of the ends of this car - you might be tempted to sand the edge flat on your NWSL Tru-Sander - but you'd be removing the rivets and other details. 
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181158-245412264.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181158-245412264.jpeg)


To remove the resin flash for areas like this, I use a razor blade* held at a steep angle to scrape away the resin flash. I've found it's sometimes better to use a slightly dull razor blade for this scraping technique. A sharp, fresh blade can sometimes slice right into the resin whereas a dull blade will meet with just enough resistance that you can prevent it from digging into the part.


(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181158-2454064.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181158-2454064.jpeg)


For areas like the openings for the vent I use a hobby knife and trim the resin flash to the edges, then use sanding sticks and/or files to true up the openings.


(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181355.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/112-120917181355.jpeg)


The trickiest piece to clean up on this car was the frame for the screen door - simply because it's relatively delicate.


To give you some idea of the approach I'm taking to this car, I plan to start by building up the basic body and underframe as two subassemblies, then join them together before installing the details.


All for now,


Marty
Title: Re: Resin Freight Car Build
Post by: CVSNE on September 18, 2017, 07:35:32 AM
I forgot to include this picture in the last post - for the car end with the retainer valve casting (making it the brake wheel end of the car) I wrote a "B" on the inside of the part. I'll also add similar notes to the inside of other parts such as the floor and center sills.
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/thumb_112-120917181158-2454218.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=24543)





SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal