I had to have a change of plans and decided not to build the Dabler Mill. At the present time, I just have no where to put it, while I do have a need for some type of lumber company for my Belton town area. So, a lumber industry it will be.
I did have both SS Ltd Jennings Lbr and FSM Barnstead Lbr at one time, but apparently have sold them both. So Nichols Wood it'll be. It is a neat looking kit, but as typical, it is a bit on the small side to generate any amount of rail traffic. But then, I still have a Timberline II, Richardson Lumber too and maybe I can combine the two. Richardson is mainly a storage building and that's what's needed for rail traffic. So I made up templates to see how it would all work in the area reserved for this industry. It's a siding off a siding, and since the track curve is the same as the curvature of a turnout, I could, relatively speaking. easily install a turnout to add a dead ended loading track. But then why? I decided to leave the track work as is.
Then it occurred to me that I really don't need to use the Richardson kit. Nichols has a wood storage building, albeit small, that could be just made longer and enclosed, and voila, large enough warehouse building.
So, here's the instruction booklet. Small print and all. But it does have some halfway decent photos. Rare for this era. (Except for FSM)
Then there are four sheets of details, templates and the like.
Bob,
Looking forward to your build. I just acquired this kit a few weeks back and will enjoy seeing your progress.
Horton M.
Bob, I have always liked Builders-in-Scale kits for so many reasons--the finely done blueprints, nice and plentiful castings, and detailed instructions. This looks to be an interesting build--I'll be following along.
--Opa George
This one is going to be a great one. Fantastic choice.
Jaime
I'll be following.
I'll be following, right along with the others, Bob. Nice choice.
As for rail served, there used to be a lumber dealer in Thomasville, NC (not far from the Dabler Mill, in fact) that specialized in kiln dried lumber. The actual cutting and trimming mill, as the kilns, were several miles away, in a fairly rural spot, along the HP, T & D RR. So finished product was shipped to the dealer by rail.
Jim
I've always liked BIS kits and am looking forward to your build of this one. :)
I'll be watching, Bob.
Looks like a very cool kit, and I'm looking forward to your changes/ additions. I do like to work with a kit with a good set of plans.
Cheers, mark.
Some many wonderful new threads to follow. I'll be following along with this one as well. ;D
Looks like another great addition to the build challenge.
Glad to have everyone following along.
One nice thing is that they bagged each building/structure wood separately. The downside is that it put a crimp on mass staining/painting. But since the instructions use both fractional and scale sizes, it makes sense for me to open one bag at a time.
Then there are the cardboard roof cards. Again with the cardboard. Interesting. No floors. Hmm.
Well, let's get crackin' on the build. They state that one can use their window/door placement or move them wherever one wants, since they give a light imprint as to recommended location. Sorry. But that isn't a light imprint. Never no mind to me as I'm okay with placement.
So no it's a matter of cutting out the window and door openings in the thick material. I started by adding some painters tape on the back and then drilling out relief holes in the corners. I didn't have a tear out in any of the 6 openings. I don't know if it made a difference, but I first cut against the grain, then with the grain to finish the opening..
Since this is a challenge, I'll try new things. First up, cutting in end of boards, nail holes (gasp) every two feet, plus two at the end of each board. Then a dip in my AI mix. No clue now as to strength as I just had to add a bunch of 91% alcohol. One thing that I didn't photo - the door width is too wide. The windows are short, which isn't an issue. So I used an old Grandt (?) panel door that I cut off the transom.
I was at Hobby Lobby and bought some Tamiya spray primer. I really like this stuff. It would be nice if it came in a light wood color though. I used it for all the castings. The kit includes three wire rope spools. Really coll looking.
Finally got to start putting stuff together. There is what will become the back side of the false front. It's made from scale 2x4s and some siding. Past experience has made me cautious as to drawings vs actual sizes. Case in point. There is a casting that they call a transom as part of the false front. The wood piece that I made is to be attached to it. We may have a problem as the two widths are off, but the rear wall does fit the space between the posts, so I'll just proceed as instructed.
The plan sheets show a lot of detail, including bracing. They use a triangle to indicate where it goes. So when the instructions call for bracing on a questionable part, refer to the plan sheet. Not only did they confuse A1 for A2 (I believe) in step C3 , but the bracing goes on the lower part of the wall; not the higher section.
(Update - The instructions were correct for A2 and C2. Me bad). It is so easy to misread the instructions.
Then it's a matter of coloring the walls, windows, and doors, etc. For the trim, once paint has been applied, I wiped it down using some cut down foam packaging.
While all that was drying, it on to the foundation - three pieces of scale 4x8. Cut 45s, stand on end and glue together after adding the front entry floor. The entry floor sits on five 4x4s. There was enough material for 4 pieces. This THE building foundation. Seems kinda flimsy. The building, not the addition is to sit on this with a slight overhang on all sides. They do mention that if a floor is desired, now is the time to add one. I probably will.
Looking good, Bob.
Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these. I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs. You board joins look very tidy.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 03, 2020, 12:20:08 AM
Looking good, Bob.
Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these. I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs. You board joins look very tidy.
Cheers, Mark.
Very true. Those are called king studs, with jack studs under the header. My carpenters were a lazy and cheap lot and just nailed to the wall studs to save time and material. ;D
Bob,
The build is coming along nicely. Looks like a fun kit to build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Oldguy on January 03, 2020, 10:38:47 AM
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 03, 2020, 12:20:08 AM
Looking good, Bob.
Just a little note about nail-holes - there should always be an opening stud at each side of a window or door, so on the small wall with the window in the center you would typically see nail-holes up and down these. I'm not saying what you have done is incorrect, just what would be more usual - nail-holes at each end of the wall and the two opening studs. You board joins look very tidy.
Cheers, Mark.
Very true. Those are called king studs, with jack studs under the header. My carpenters were a lazy and cheap lot and just nailed to the wall studs to save time and material. ;D
Good looking walls, Bob. I love the extra bit of info I get on the forum here. Not being a carpenter, the extra info on real-life framing is invaluable. As you note, there are the exceptions to modern standards--take my house for instance... ;)
--Opa George
Okay, where was I. Oh, right, start assembly. The windows - there is some play for left/right adjustment and a little up. But absolutely no down adjustment as there is no lower trim on them. Anyway, I got the wall penetrations installed and was doing some test fitting and notice the bow in the walls. So I added some bracing. One needs to figure out where the roof will eventually goes, make clearance allowances and then glue.
The addition and main building three sides are each glued and set aside to dry. And then on to the front wall. This consists of seven castings, an outdoor ceiling piece, two inside "counter" shelves plus the transom sections. All this gets assembled and installed on the foundation, no floor, just foundation made up of a square piece of wood and 4x8s laid in their side. I added a floor. At least I got something that can be ham-handled.
So one glues on the 1/16x1/16 trim to two facade pieces. Then add the interior angle pieces. All this is going to sit overnight before I try to add the angled facade pieces and then the front door. Ye gods this is going to be fun.
You can never add too much bracing...
Jaime
Selected wall sections have 1/8" glue block glued on. Then to assemble the walls, they want one to glue the adjoining wall to the block and make sure that any glue squeezings are cleaned out. Then, one adds the 1/16" corner trim in the resulting notch. In the future I'll add the corner trim on the non-blocked walls. It'll make alignment just so much easier.
Once the walls have been glued together, one adds the main building's three sides to the foundation. There is a small, unquantified, overhang of the building walls. This pretty much requires this assembly to be done upside down. I only glued down the back wall as I wasn't all that confident about the front wall alignment. Once the glue had set, I placed the transom assembly in the front opening and then glued the side walls to the floor and set it aside to dry.
I did vary from the instructions as to the front door/window assembly sequence. I added the trim pieces to the outside windows and let them sit overnight. Then it was a matter of gluing the trim to the sides and then window to the floor and let it sit a bit. Then it was a matter of gluing on the angled window pieces, let them sit a bit and then add the door casting. All this will sit overnight. The white scribed siding is the entry ceiling and just fits to the slanted window sections and door. Then the transom piece gets added.
Nice entrance, Bob.
Cheers, Mark.
test.
Couldn't post last night, the system wouldn't take it. Seems as though the forum software may not like character map embeds.
Forgot to take the camera with me to the train cave and just lazy to walk back to get it.
I debated adding the two small window ledges as one most likely cannot see them once the roof gets added. But what the hey. I got them in. Same no doubt applies to staining the floor. The office addition has also been added. They built there office on the edge of a hill with the addition being built on stilts. I'll admit it looks good that way. Even if one doesn't plan on having the gully, you still have to add 2x8's to support the floor, since the main office was built on 4x8's.
The false front gets topped by a 1x16 under a 1x18. I'll admit I've never seen a 1x16 or a 1x18 and seems a bit weird for not much of a shadow line. After this had dried, it was time to add the cast metal corbels. (Boy, that paint job looks terrible close up.)
Now it was time to put the lids on these buildings. When I cut the cards out, I put the card in the corner of a magnetic gluing jig (because I know it is a true 90 degree corner) and then cut the part out using true triangles to ensure a square piece. For shingles, I start from the bottom at whatever overhang that I want and make a mark at 3' (the width of rolled roofing) using my dividers and then walk them up the roof.
The rolled roofing was made from the provided newsprint that I painted black. Then it was a matter of cutting it to 3' widths. The roof cards were glued in place and then the tar paper roofing added.
Coming on nicely, Bob.
Cheers, Mark.
Bob,
I agree. I've always liked the older building with the inset entrance. Reminds me of the "good old days" when the front walk was wood and worn from all the foot traffic.
Nice build.
Tom ;D
Very nice Bob.
Mark, Tom and George - thanks. And Tom, I agree. Those inset entrances always seemed to be more welcoming, like a pair of arms wrapping around you. Good Grief. I guess I did retain some stuff from my short stint in architectural engineering. Back to the build.
I added the remaining roof trim and "tarring" the tar paper joints. It is a cute little building. Further weathering will take place later.
Next up - the lumber shed. Big breath. Below are the contents for the kit building. That's a lot of sticks. And I plan on doubling it's size length-wise. :o I have just about every size needed in stock. Hopefully the postal storage system will expedite my order from Mt Albert Lumber. In any case, first up is the AI bath. And with all that material drying, I decided t would be well worth my time to build a roof truss jig. There are two different truss styles, but each have the same upper two pieces; the roof deck supports. The upper truss has a set of chords sandwiched between the roof deck support pieces, while the lower truss has two lower chords; one on either side of the roof deck supports. Just have to have to make a total of 24 of them buggers. It was just a matter of making the best one that I could from the template, then use it to make the jig.
Now that the wood has been stained, it was a matter of separating it all out by size. There are close to a dozen different sizes of wood and none is color coded. What I had to do was write down what sizes are used in each step and basically do an inventory. I used a micrometer to find the various sizes and make a list of those. This made quick work of separating 6" boards from 8", and so on. One help is the instructions telling us of the various lengths used. Once each size was determined, I placed them in a plastic sleeve marked with it's size and length. Now I can start building.
As with the office, start with the foundation. This is made up of 3x6 and 4x6 lumber. This is to be distressed a bit and painted to resemble concrete. I don't thing the 3x material would stand up to my ham handedness. A scale 6" is the critical dimension, so I'll substitute the scale 3" material with scale 8" stuff and build it out of 6x8's. As with the office, there is no floor. For this it makes a little more sense. But from a scenic standpoint, the ground inside it is gong to need some "ground". I'm thinking that I need to add some gravel. This gives me a couple of benefits. 1) I don't have to worry about filling it in after it's completed and 2) I can add a false floor, topped by the gravel, giving it some added strength.
Really coming along nicely Bob.
Hey Bob:
Looking good. I'm following along.
Karl
Now that I can easily identify and location all the needed lumber, it's time to start wall assembly. They do note that the provided templates may not be all that accurate. Something about expansion/contraction due to printing. I gotta keep that in mind.
So I'm building the back wall of the lumber storage shed. And because I'm doubling it's size, I need to double the needed material. And oh, we're building this stick by stick, starting with four 2x4 back wall sections. Each section requires 11 2x4 studs and 2x4 top and bottom plates. I initially tried to do this on the template. I just couldn't keep the plates on edge. So off to the glue jig. Works like a charm.
I wasn't able to proceed any further, as it started snowing like a mother over the existing ice layer. I need to head back to the house before it gets real slippery.
Initially, I made up a spacer that fit in between the studs to maintain spacing. It was very time consuming and with 4 of these walls to build, I had to come up with another way. I used my first one, and then placed it on the gluing jig, drew pencil lines along each stud and used those lines for placement. I made the remaining three in the time it took to make the first one.
Then it was on to the sides. The instructions make it very clear that one had to use Elevation B as a template. Elevation D, the other side, was narrower than B, so one couldn't do two at one time. And there are three critical vertical spaces that must be 4 scale inches wide. So here, I decided to build my three "end pieces" on Elevation B. I established a base line for the bottom plate, secured it down(using super magnets), established one end with a triangle that was secured from movement, and worked my way to the right. The bracing was cut to fit in place. There will be quite a bit of dried glue blobs that will have to be cleaned off. But those are done!
This is kicking my backside. Now to build two floors from scale 2x10s and some scale 2x6s.
I really hate working over wax paper as it never wants to sit flat. I did get a horizontal plane established, a left vertical, and started to add lumber. After about 5 or 6 joists, I was able to get a little weight added to keep them from rising up. Slowly worked my way across. Then it came time to add the horizontal members. Some are for the actual storage area, while the bulk are for a walkway. I added a 1-2-3 block to hold the joists flat and somewhat in place while I added the 2x6s. Here's the final product. And I had to make two of them. They aren't perfect, but I'm in no mood to make more.
Bob, really nice results on that wall using the template.
--Opa George
Quote from: Opa George on January 20, 2020, 07:03:49 PM
Bob, really nice results on that wall using the template.
--Opa George
Thanks; it was worth the effort in the long run.
Still slogging along. The kit provides 6 metal T-plates, but there are 12 places where they should go. The instructions stated, pick which set you want to use them on. Although recommends to use them on the set in front. And I'm doubling the size of this building. So, I'm going to be real short. Okay. so out comes the Brown paper and a bunch of NBWs. It was a simple matter of marking the drill hole placement with a sharp int and then drill the holes. I found that it helped to drill from the back side as well and go back over the holes with the sharp end of the lace draper to aid in getting them little NBWs into their holes. The cast plates are the ones on the bottom.
Of curse when I started to assemble the building these can not be readily seen. Oh well. I know they are there.
The base has been doubled in size, and the kit had no step to have more of a base other than a square made out of wood. I did add a thin plastic filer to the base and covered the non "concrete" area with WS gray fine ballast to replicate a gravel floor.
Sad to think that after building this structure with individual studs, joists, and fire blocks, that it will be covered in metal siding.
Coming on nicely, Bob.
The paper T-brackets look good.
Cheers, Mark.
Looks good Bob.
I always liked BIS for their full templates and scale plans.
Mark and Carl, thanks for the support.
Soooooo, spent my modeling time mainly making trusses. I needed 20 of them with double lower chords. In making the cutting/gluing jig, it is very important on placing the lower chord stop as all the trusses rest on the lower chords. No prototypical, but hey, they can't be seen anyway. That also explains why some parts are blue. They were left over from another build.
Then the trick became on how to add the lower chord on the other side, as they have to be even. Luckily, a machinist block came to the rescue.
There are two end trusses that are more prototypical and these needed to be made up individually. I made up the outside halves and will let them sit overnight so I can add the interior bracing.
That's a lot of really tiny, delicate work, Bob. Great job. I'm really enjoying watching this take shape. Thanks for posting all your progress.
--Opa George
After the 20 standard rafters, it was time to finish the two end rafters. These are more detailed as they will be partially visible, if one follows the directions and make weather worn gable ends. It was just as easy to make these on the template as all we are adding are the interior bracing pieces.
Now it is time to add the ribbed metal siding. A couple of shots of all the 2x4 construction before it gets covered up. Knowing that I was going to make this building larger, I ordered some, actually I order a bunch, additional ribbed siding. I have another project in which these are prototypically correct. Hmmm. The newer material doesn't completely match the old. The older material is on the top. I'll use the original siding for the side walls and the newer for the roof, so not a real issue. So the material was cut to size and given a coat of gray primer that will sit over night to cure.
I managed to get the siding on, but it ain't pretty. The idea was that each backside corner was to end with a rib, then wrap a little extra around the corner. Not even close. It was one of those pesky little details that I missed when reading through the instructions. If I had realized it, I could have made adjustments with my additional length. Gotta give Jim credit on his design. He made the width so a rib would fall on a corner. And I didn't.
Now that the siding was one, it was time for the roof trusses. Eventually, I remembered to add more truss locations on the template. Then taped down tape to hold the 1x4s on the tape, then glue the trusses on to them. This required the establishment of a baseline for length and a method to keep the 1x4s parallel. Good old triangle to the rescue. again.
Since the paper template would not lay flat, I used a scrap piece of granite to hold the glued in trusses and then when all were in place, set it across their base for the night.
The roof is done. Sure a lot of work that'll just be hidden.
It is suggested that now would be a good time to load up the storage rack. Seems reasonable. Just over 250 pieces of wood that need to be separated by size. Actually, the wood was brilliantly separated and banded together to make it an easy job to get into separate piles. The odd sized wood is for yard details and a jib crane. Before I left for the night, I grabbed some ancient Campbell tie material and some creosoted ties. I'll use these to fill in some of the bin storage bays.
Creosoted ties. When I first got into the hobby, I was hand laying code 55 track and decided that I should be using actual creosote for the ties to get the real tie color. Back then one could easily buy creosote at the local hardware store in quart cans. I didn't care all that much with the health effects as I wasn't going to use that much, but I did learn two things - Creosoted ties and plastic don't play well together and that real ties turn color with age.
Hey Bob:
Wow looks like a lot of work. Looking good. Keep the pic flowing.
Karl
Bob,
The wood skeletal structure of the building and the roof assembly is simply awesome. It's so beautiful without the metal siding I can see why you were hesitant to cover it up.
--Opa George
I am using wood ties with creosote and only have half of the last gallon I was able to buy in the 80's and love the look I can get with different soaking times.
I was checking some sources in the construction industry and might be able to get small quantities for future expansion projects.
Do the feds monitor hobby forums for subversive activities..... :o ::) ???
You're doing well Bob.
You will persevere and finish the race!
Looks great, Bob.
Its just like working in 1:1 scale, only without the scaffolding and safety net.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 25, 2020, 09:29:13 AM
I am using wood ties with creosote and only have half of the last gallon I was able to buy in the 80's and love the look I can get with different soaking times.
I was checking some sources in the construction industry and might be able to get small quantities for future expansion projects.
Do the feds monitor hobby forums for subversive activities..... :o ::) ???
I don't think that we are the NSA's watch list (yet). Besides, I was a certified safety professional and held a 30-hour hazmat card. So, that means don't do what I do, do what I say. ::)
I was so happy that the roof tin fell at a raised seam, that I forgot all about the gable trim that needs to be added. Grrrr. In my younger days the roof would have flew across the room. Now, I need to find my muse for the recovery. In the mean time, let's build something. I gots a ladder and a workbench that need to be built. The ladder - I got no ladder jig to hold 2x4s, but I do have a joist jig, a machinist block and magnets. Good enough.
Then I need to get all the lumber piled up for the storage building. Still a bit skimpy, but I do have some Campbell turnout ties. Cut these in half and voila. Two more slots filled. As a side note - my package of low profile ties cost $3.25 a decade or two ago. Now - $21.00! Granted it's for 1000 ties, but holy smokes.
Before I can glue down the roof, I needed to add the stacks of lumber.
Still mulling over my roof gable issue, I have a solution in mind and it ain't going to be pretty.
Meanwhile, I'll build a workbench. This would have been so much easier if I had seen Marty's video and his use of the Blu Tack a couple of weeks ago. But, I managed to get 'er done.
Wow , that is looking awesome .
Nice work, Bob. The lumber bins look realistically full. I think that's always a challenge to do, since it eats up so much scale lumber.
--Opa George
Quote from: Opa George on January 28, 2020, 05:30:37 AM
Nice work, Bob. The lumber bins look realistically full. I think that's always a challenge to do, since it eats up so much scale lumber.
--Opa George
Thanks. And as I mentioned the vast majority of it was provided in the kit. I will admit that I thought a bit about not using their lumber as it was some of the best that I have seen. But then I realized that I don't have that much of a calling for 10 foot scale lumber. Some pieces, perhaps, but no it was in the kit, so I will use it.
I was working on the gable ends, but found the supplied 1x10s were in short supply. so I put in an order to Mt Albert. If I'm going to order, I'll order other stuff as well to spread out the shipping costs.
After looking at online photos, I did manage to rust up the metal bits. It's a whole lot heavier than I wanted, so that is one area that I need to work on.
While waiting for my new lumber, I'll work on railings and perhaps the loading dock.
While waiting for materials, I moved onto the workshop. Strange little building as part of it sits on the loading dock. Typical little bag of parts and the thrill of cutting out the windows. Masking tape on the back, holes drilled in the corners, and everything came out as it should, I decided to paint the walls the same as the office, albeit a bit more weathered. I didn't paint one piece, as at the time I just couldn't figure out where it goes.
I do get a bit lazy painting trim as I drag through the paint and then pull through a sponge (actually packing foam) for coverage. I found it a lot quicker than using a paint brush.
While the sides are being glued together, I started on the roof. Even though I made sure that the roof card was cut out with square corners, I continue to use perpendicular methods for scoring the ridge. I decided to go ahead and use the provided Campbell shingles. I did use transfer tape and try to minimize the amount of adhesive that is exposed. It all went fairly quick. It was a simple matter of burnishing the tape to the roof and burnishing the little solid bit on the applied shingles. To finish off the last row on each side, I wetted the shingle only portion, and cut off the solid portion. Now I remember why I never liked these - I've got a ton of ridge cap shingles to make.
Quote from: Oldguy on January 26, 2020, 07:59:17 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 25, 2020, 09:29:13 AM
I am using wood ties with creosote and only have half of the last gallon I was able to buy in the 80's and love the look I can get with different soaking times.
I was checking some sources in the construction industry and might be able to get small quantities for future expansion projects.
Do the feds monitor hobby forums for subversive activities..... :o ::) ???
I don't think that we are the NSA's watch list (yet). Besides, I was a certified safety professional and held a 30-hour hazmat card. So, that means don't do what I do, do what I say. ::)
Give them time Bob.....if there's a dime to made from fines, we will be seeing them. :(
Bob,
This a brilliant build thread. I have this kit and I will feed off your expertise when the time comes. Very well done!
Mike ;)
Well, Mike, you should have no issues. It's more of a matter of reading the what goes where, looking at the diagrams to figure out where the wheres are.
Before adding the ridge caps, I need to install the roof. Since there is only one gable end, I decided not to install a ridge beam, but to use a couple of interior formers made out of old Campbell excess template cardboard. (I have a cardboard scrap box)
For the ridge caps, nothing beats plain old paper bags. Another quickly vanishing item. Luckily we had two smallish bags that I appropriated. It's just a matter of getting a good fold, determining the width needed and cut double the length of the ridge. I used WeldBond to glue them on with a half-the-length overlap. One bag should last me a life time.
I should mention the weird end section of the workshop. In a previous post, I mentioned the funny short B&B section that I couldn't make a determination of where it went. Well. it is the lower outside wall. It will be buried under the dock. The stained upper end wall has it's painted B&B side turned inward. It forms the back wall of the dock tool house. The pencil lines were used to determine the workshop roof placement as the battens on the other side need to be removed where the rood hits it.
This cool little structure has some decent windows on the back side that will never bee seen. A shame really.
With the workshop and tool house being interrelated, the dock becomes an important construct, especially since, wait for it, I'll be making it longer. That square piece of siding is for the dock deck. Um, no. I'll replace it with 2x12 or x10 material. Sooooo, let's see. 1/16 square supports 13/32" long, topped by a 1/16 square piece, topped by 2x8 joists, then 2x decking. Sure why not. The hoist will be placed somewhere near the middle of the dock instead of being off the end.
It's an easy matter of extending the dock support detail template to accommodate the longer length. And some quick math showed that I can get very close to the original dock height by switch to 2x10 joists from the planned 2x8s to account for the thinner 2x decking from the original siding piece. I'll double check tomorrow.
But before I do anything else, I need double check how my modifications are affecting the building complex layout. The "section" pieces are chain link fence pieces. As I like the original plan, I'll keep the general orientation. The lengthening of the storage bins will eliminate the Section 2A fence piece as this building now covers the entire width. The dock/tool house/workshop set will move up. It looks like I can keep the overall same width. One makes the chain link from provide metal rods and tulle. So I have options, other than the sliding gate.
Great build!
The workshop gets two sliding doors. The "track" is made up of two 2x6s. I glues the doors on, ansd yes, I noticed the left one is slanted. It has been fixed. The track is just on for show.
Before I can add the store room, I need to build the attached dock. I decided to use the provided support template, but in hindsight, I should have developed my own. One just has to remember to account for the dock cutout for the stairs. Then it was a matter of deciding on the joist spacing. I found that the 24" spacing wouldn't work very well. Another reason to have done my own template. So, I went with the 16" spacing.
Then, it was on to the decking. As I mentioned earlier, the provides a square piece of siding, maybe 3' to 4" spacing. Um, no. It was a matter of cutting enough material for the entire deck, all cut to length to fit. Then, I took that material and cut it into more appropriate material length, not to exceed 12'. I made up the deck into two manageable sections. First, I needed to flip the cut pieces over so that the cuts would show. Once, I got the pieces corralled, I used the joist template to glue on some material to hold it together. The intent was not to glue on anything where a joist would go. That was the intent. Too bad it didn't always work out.
I remembered the cut out section. And when flipped over, I did okay. Not perfect, but okay. Then, both sections ready to go.
Then it was a matter of adding the joists. I wanted to start at each end, establishing the overhang. The guide, used horizontally made easy work aligning the joists. Just don't add glue to the joists that go into the guide. And oops, right off the bat, a sticker smack dab in the way. I'll just work around it for now, install as many joists that I can, let everything sit overnight and removed the offending objects tomorrow.
Removed some of the offending bits and finished adding the joists. Then add the dock supports. Another use of the truss templates was spacing for the rafter tails.
While the glue was drying, it was time for the dock crane. Fairly simple. Was especially easy since the rope guides are simply installed between the 2 4x8s. Makes adding the "rope/cable real easy. The kit includes a good piece of thread plus some sisal for the wire rope spools. Oh, I don't think so. A little spot of thin ACC secured one thread end to the winch. Then up an over the two guides. I add thin ACC to all thread sections and when dry, then work on the down part of the line. I add a clamp to the loose end and let it put some tension on the bitter end and then add some more thin ACC. Once that has dried, the line is cut and the hook glued on. Now all parts of the line appear to be taut.
I have this kit 'on the shelf' so this thread will be a keeper for me. Beauteous work Bob! Love the expanded shed.
--Rich
Bob, you nailed it with the rope and crane. Excellent results. There is a similar crane assembly in the BIS Tidewater Wharf, and I remember struggling to get the look of the rope just right.
--Opa George
Hey Bob:
Looks great I especially like the small crane built with actual wood and metal castings. Looks great.
Karl
Quote from: Opa George on February 07, 2020, 09:51:52 AM
Bob, you nailed it with the rope and crane. Excellent results. There is a similar crane assembly in the BIS Tidewater Wharf, and I remember struggling to get the look of the rope just right.
--Opa George
Once you get the knack of adding the ACC on the string, it makes it a lot easier and looks better. I have yet to add the hand crank on the winch.
Quote from: postalkarl on February 07, 2020, 01:42:30 PM
Hey Bob:
Looks great I especially like the small crane built with actual wood and metal castings. Looks great.
Karl
It does look good doesn't it. I was pleasantly surprised how it turned out. I learned a lot by watching you. And a lot of those here as well. Three pieces of wood and sprue of metal parts. I don't know if Jim did the masters, or who, but the parts are fantastic.
Did a bunch of piddly bits. I was happy that the dock height was spot on. I added the storeroom without any modifications. I do like the lengthened dock, but I really messed up on it's placement. But chances are if I don't mention it (too late) not that many would find it.
They included three wire rope reels. I added wire rope to two of them.
One complaint on my work. Well, maybe more than one, but the biggest is that I am not adding any lighting. The storeroom has three sets of shelves that are to be installed. But if installed can't be seen. Same for the workroom. There is a decent table saw casting, but if installed, you can't see it.. Unless lighting is added.
I have been waiting on my wood shipment so I can finished the lumber storage bin. Once that is done, then I can start to weather everything built. But then, I also need to figure out the base for this. Especially since I need to make a chain link fence and I really want to include a ravine.
Looking good Bob!
Nice work, Bob.
I especially like the crane.
Cheers, Mark.
Carl and Mark, thanks for the support.
Still waiting for my Mt Albert shipment. I decided that I definitely want the office addition to be on piers, that means a ravine. First, I need to determine how all these will fit into the allotted area. This space would suggest the yard access from the side. Which in turn would require any traffic to cross the ravine and what better bridge than an old flat car. The kit includes material for a chain link fence. There is some extra material, but not enough for this new alignment. The popsicle sticks represent the stock fence sections. There is a sliding gate section that will need to go in line with the bridge. So now what about the remaining perimeter fence? Since this is a lumber yard, I'll make up a wood fence to go along the track side. I like to use pan pastels and weathering powders to color the boards and posts.
I finally decided to make the base out of 2" foam attached to 3/8" piece of Gaterboard. This should bring up the lot to th base of the rails. It was a simple matter of pressing a cut off piece of foam in place and cutting neat the rail impression to get a close fit. I just hope I didn't flood the extant foam with a ton of glue. Anyway, I decided to use some newish brown spray paint, for the base. Thankfully it was in the upper 50s, so I could spray the plastic compatible paint outside. Hmmmmm, plastic compatible doesn't mean foam compatible. WT . . . . . ? Gotta let 'er rest overnight and see if it can be salvaged. In the meantime, I got a fence to build.
Still waiting on my wood shipment. Sooooooo I'll work on the base. I made a run to my local ACe hardware store and picked out a base dirt color and slapped it over the spray paint. I carved out where the drainage ditch will go and found it made the foam a little limp, so I reinforced it with some 3/8" gator board. Then it was a matter of removing the 2" foam on the 5/8" plywood. It came up relatively easily once I added a lot of cross cuts. Some judicious trimming and the diorama base fit right in. And yes, I use 1/2" foam for spline roadbed.
Now it was a matter of figuring out where all the building will go. In this case, placement of the fencing set some of the parameters, i.e. keep the wood fence distance a multiple of 4 feet and the chain ink at eight feet, except for the gate. Once all that is figured out, I know where the gate will go and that determined the placement of the flatcar bridge. As an aside the Athearn flatcar kit included metal side stakes. Never had one like that before. Then it was a matter of making the wood fence. I cut 2x4s eight feet long and the 1x6 vertical boards eight feet tall. The 4x4 support posts are 10 feet long. I found using a cut off popsicle stick to hold down the boards while gathering them side by side made construction easier. It also worked to space the mid rail.
Hey Bob:
It's coming along nicely. I like the little building with the platform on it.
karl
Thanks Karl.
Now that the wood fence is done, I decided to move onto the chain link. The kit contained several pieces of different diameter steel wire and decent templates. Tried using them the glue jig but the paper wouldn't lay flat enough. So I cut the top template off and mounted it on a piece of wood. I have some Locktite 430, its for metals, and it just wouldn't set up. So, I moved on to the sliding gate and its side pieces. Same thing. Maybe the this glue goes bad?
So, after deciding to wait on the glue, I set up the long fence pieces, This time decided to use a cutting mat as a placement guide, since it had vertical and horizontal lines and all. I glued up the first two posts using regular ACC, but after looking what I had ahead of me, I decided to stop the nonsense and use brass. At least I can solder everything together with brass rod. But then I don't have any on hand, so I'll have to order it. At least I get 15% off at MicroMart.
In the mean time, the outdoor temps are supposed to rise a bit, and I now find a need for some dirt. I have one spot where excess dirt was dumped, and hopefully, it won't be frozen or a mud pile.
Hey Bob:
you are quite welcome. Looks like you are making more progress.
Karl
The use of ACC on the steel gate and fence parts was a total and utter disaster. In other words, everything fell apart. So bring on the Hakko.
I found a piece of scrap 1 by material, and drew out the needed fencing and the main gates. I attempted to add some push pins into predrilled holes to see if I could use them as a bending jig. Nope. Not even close. So it was on to using some Bostik Blu-Tack to hold the parts in place. Close but no cigar. So, I made up a another jig for both cutting and soldering. I'll let it set over night and hit it again tomorrow.
Bob,
I wonder if you would have an easier time soldering if your joints were not sitting against the wood block. I'm far from an expert at soldering but have found the more evenly I can heat the joint the better it works for me. Have you thought of making an "X" shaped fixture that holds the sides and diagonal brace in place but leaves the joints to be soldered accessible? That would allow you to apply the heat underneath the wire rod and touch the solder to the top.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 17, 2020, 09:59:31 AM
Bob,
I wonder if you would have an easier time soldering if your joints were not sitting against the wood block. I'm far from an expert at soldering but have found the more evenly I can heat the joint the better it works for me. Have you thought of making an "X" shaped fixture that holds the sides and diagonal brace in place but leaves the joints to be soldered accessible? That would allow you to apply the heat underneath the wire rod and touch the solder to the top.
In a word - no I haven't. Well, that's three words. I'm not that talented and never thought about it. But, I'll put that idea in the hopper for the next go around.
I'm simplistic so I made what came to me first. I don't have much problem with heat as my soldering iron is at 750 degrees. I get in and get right back out; fast. The results are okay, but soldering never was my strong suit. But at least I got two same-sized gates, this time.
And in the mean time, I cobbled together my flat car bridge.
Now I am really at a stand still while waiting for: 1) dirt to dry. I managed to get a 5 gallon bucket full and spread out over 8 trays for drying, 2) my Mt Albert wood shipment. It looks like it will take close to 30 days to get here, and 3) wait for my brass rod shipment to arrive.
Upon further reflection, I could the time to clean up my work area.
I also had no luck using glue for making my fencing, and although I never soldered like this before, it was a much better way of doing it. I agree, tiny bit of solder, get in and get out! (the liquid flux helped a lot).
Your build is looking great!
Nice build.
Watching to see it finished, this is a kit I'd like to build at some point.
Jim
I finally got my lumber order delivered and I was able to finish of the storage bin gable ends. I did a major faux pas when assembling the roof. It wasn't long enough. As a result, I had to add an extra roof truss so that the 1x10s came out past the metal siding. The space between the 1x10s was covered by 1x6s. The instructions said to show some of this material as broken so the truss details would show.
The rest of this is going to discuss dirt.
I watched a number of how to videos on dirt. How to process it, how to put it down, how to whatever. I managed to get about 4 gallons of very wet dirt and laid it out on 10 trays to air dry. Sorry, but management would never, ever, allow me to cook dirt in her oven. I went on a mission to find an Osterizer blender as I already had several pint containers for this machine. And as luck would have it, I scored one at my very first stop. While glue was drying on the gables, I started to grind the dry lumps of hard clay. This procedure wasn't all that simple or easy. Must be why none of them how-to videos actually showed the process. I could manage only 1 cup of material per load. And this was me adding some clumps at a time. Eventually, it just wouldn't grind/liquefy any more. I first used the smallest strainer, in particle size, then move up to the next size, etc. Besides being extremely time consuming, what I got was a fine dust. Not bad, but not all that sure on coverage. After a couple of cups, I went to the mid-size strainer (wires spaced 1/16"apart), and frankly can't really tell the difference, other than it went quicker and looks just a good. So here is what I get after two trays of dirt clods. And I got 8 more to process. And wow, does this make a mess.
For me part of this challenge is to actually put down some ground scenery on a layout of mine. Being in the hobby for over 40 years, it'll be a first.
I managed to release the schmoo from the blender blade bearing thingy. Apparently 8 tray loads of the Midwest's finest clay clods was just too much for it. So making scenery dirt, will be put on hold for awhile.
So, I went back to the office building and added support beams under the office annex and used a black wash to color some 6x8's for pile supports. Then it a simple matter of locating where they would hit in the gully, mark them and make holes.
So while the dirt on the base was drying, I finished up the chain link fence supports. There are five separate pieces and for those sections that go around the corner was is to make allowance for what ever has to go around the corner as those fence sections will have to be affixed after the main section is installed. Tomorrow, I'll hit them with gray primer.
As I mentioned before, I have never installed base scenery before. Yes, I have read books, watched videos, and seen others do it. But it is another thing when you have to do it on your own. But then, I learn by doing, not by watching. I see a static grass applicator in my near future. But I also realized that a more immediate need is Elmers glue. Hopefully I cam locate a gallon jug somewhere tomorrow.
Bob,
I like where this is headed, the elevation changes are going to engage the viewers' attention.
I was a little surprised to see you using the blender. I've always crushed the bigger chunks of dirt, run the dirt through a couple strainers, one with finer screen than the other. Then I used a stocking to sift and separate some really fine material.
Looking good Bob. I bought a cheap coffee grinder on amazon and I use that to grind my dirt very fine. I think it was $8.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on February 23, 2020, 10:37:20 PM
Bob,
I like where this is headed, the elevation changes are going to engage the viewers' attention.
I was a little surprised to see you using the blender. I've always crushed the bigger chunks of dirt, run the dirt through a couple strainers, one with finer screen than the other. Then I used a stocking to sift and separate some really fine material.
Thanks. I'm definitely charting new territory. I didn't know how else to do this. I would have to come up with some type of flat plate crusher otherwise. These clods are tough. Some get bounce around inside and get rounded. I have to use a pair of pliers to break them into smaller and more angular chunks for a regrind. Once ground, the stuff is like flour.
Quote from: SteveCuster on February 24, 2020, 10:31:20 AM
Looking good Bob. I bought a cheap coffee grinder on amazon and I use that to grind my dirt very fine. I think it was $8.
I hear ya. My Osterizer was a whole $6 at the local thrift store. The price sticker is still on it. At some future date,I'll use it to grind up leaves.
I like the positioning of the office building, Bob. It should like very neat when finished. Are you going to pile under the main part of the office or build the scenery up?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 24, 2020, 01:22:51 PM
I like the positioning of the office building, Bob. It should like very neat when finished. Are you going to pile under the main part of the office or build the scenery up?
Cheers, Mark.
The main office section will rest on the "dirt".
The kit plans had the annex overhang a ditch. At first, I wasn't going to do it, but gave in realizing that I need to get away from my "Kansasitis" (meaning the love of flat or nearly flat land).
Bob,
Just getting caught up again on this wonderful build. You are doing a great job, keep it going my friend.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.
So, I was bouncing around from one little project to another. I added some darker brown paint to low areas, just to see that when I added the gravel, if it would show up. Nope. Don't know why I thought it would. I have since added more gravel in the upper bare area where the work shed goes and more dirt in the ditch.
The while that was drying, it was on to the chain link fence. I found that the width of my small scale ruler was 5'6", close enough for my 6' fence. On the two longer sections, it was a matter of using Canopy glue on one panel and let it set a bit, Then one can add additional glue along the remainder and pull the fabric over it all. I put some wax paper over it and added a weight. And, what do you, instant fence. In the last fence photo, the left most panel is not attached to the rest of the unit. This panel will be rotated 90 degrees and then then tubing will be affixed. This allows the fence material to wrap around the corner.
While digging around my scenery supplies, I found some old ground foam. $2.98 a bag and Woodland Scenics located in Shawnee Mission Kansas. (fun fact - there is no city of Shawnee Mission) This reminds me that I need to stock up since I'll be doing some scenery. There is a train store, not a hobby shop but a train store, about 17 miles from my house that carries Woodland Scenics products. And he doesn't charge full retail. (Sad fact - Woodland Scenics does not have a outlet store. They are three miles down the road from the train store)
I decided to rename this facility after the real lumber company where this will be located. I did use the kit's sign as an inspiration. I found some scrap wood for the two sided sign and followed the kits construction suggestions. Basically frame the sign fronts with 2x4s and then surround with 2x10s. Plus a bit of weathering and done. This gets mounted on the wood storage bin roof. It will be a challenge for sure.
Been following along on your build. It's really coming out great!
Two mystery castings became evident as to their location. It is a siding gate mechanism and a gate wheel cast as one piece. So it was just a matter of cutting the wheel off and trimming it a bit. The placement of the sliding mechanism was a bit more problematic. Each was to be place on the fencing next to each gate. Okay, But how to attach the sliding gate? I went a different way and attached each to it's respective gate. Under the mechanism are two nubs that span the gate perfectly. This will allow for the gate to be in the open position a lot easier. A little ACC and rest overnight should do it.
Then it was time to finish the flat car bridge. I got some brass rod cut and bent into position, then painted and weathered a bit. The stakes on this Athearn blue box were metal and fit in the pockets one way. Hadn't seen that before.
Then on to the company sign. There is a template for making the brackets. I made two; one for each end and they didn't work at all. So I drilled out some tight holes and glued in the vertical posts. Tomorrow, I can add some additional supports. It doesn't look like it, but the sign ends are with in 1 mm of each other of being level.
I am slowly getting to the point where some of these buildings can finally be planted.
This has come together very nicely, Bob. I'm eager to see it placed in the scenery you have been working on.
--Opa George
Good looking lumber shed Bob..... 8)
I finally am to the point where I can start planting buildings. I had marked their positions, needing that information to build out the fencing. The dock and workshop had very little areas for glue, so I added a bunch of glue on the backside of the dock and then hid a lot of it with foliage.
The it was a matter of adding the wood fencing along the track side. Note - this facility is track side, but not track accessible.
With the lumber storage shed planted, I can now work on the stairs going to the second level, adding handrails and stuff.
Now that the storage bin is planted, I can finish and add the stair set. They have a handrail on only the outside of each set. Considering the issues that I had with the one set, I left it well enough alone.
Then it was on adding the chain link fence. Well parts of it. I realized that I need to add some foliage around the office and it would be better without that gate section. Because of the limited length of the fabric, I added a 4' gate to the chain link fence. It was easier to make that then trying to patch the tulle into one piece.
So while the fencing was drying, I decided to work on some vehicle bumper stops for the parking area on the right side of the ditch. I did have a box of useed code 55 narrow gauge switch kits that no one around here wanted. So, I cut them up to be planted to keep the little drivers from driving onto the railroad tracks or into the ditch.
Put the final touches on this build. Slowly learning the ins and outs of ground foam.
Put a bunch of the kit castings in pace and then slid the whole shebang into place on the layout. Eventually, I'll need to build up the surrounding area.
Anyway, on to the next adventure. This go around I'll be doing two kits at once as I'll be stove up in April and May from getting a new knee.
Outstanding
Great work Bob.....beautiful scene. 8)
Great looking diorama, Bob.
Jeff
Beautiful modeling.
Bob, really nice scenic work. You have an eye for weeds (that is a compliment). :)
--Opa George
Thanks all. I am learning a lot.
Bob,
I really like how this came together. It is going to be a real focal point on your layout. Thanks for sharing your modeling with us.