Tom is correct that you don't have to start with A&I.  For a newer building you could certainly skip it.  I'd build up the color in layers.  Testing on scrap pieces is a great way to try different techniques. To post more pictures, where you add the one picture, there's a line stating (more attachments) just under the box.  You can post up to five per post.

Jeff

Question regarding windshield fluid. I heard you should only use windshield fluid designed for summer use, because it does not have an additive in the winter mix that curdles the paint. Is this true, or can I use any bottle of WW fluid?

Ralph,
I use the blue windshield washer fluid and have never had an issue.  I only use it for brush painting, have never tried to thin acrylic paint in this way for use in an airbrush.  I have used the blue ww fluid with Vallejo acrylics and several brands of craft store acrylics and never had an issue with it.  I read somewhere that the yellow/orange winter mix does not work for thinning acrylics, have never tried it.  HTH

Hi Curt,

I see you're off to a great start and getting a lot of good advice along the way.  I'll add my two cents worth.  I apply A&I or Hunterline Stains) first and last when painting the walls.  The 'darkness' I use depends on the color I've selected for the walls.  The lighter the wall the lighter the A&I.  I used to keep different mixes of A&I on my workbench (dark, medium, light).  Now I just keep dark mix of A&I plus a bottle of straight A.  If I want light I load my brush with the A first and then dip it in the A&I and start applying it to the wall.  If it's still too dark I go back to the A, load the brush and then go back over the area I just painted.  Mixing as I go so to speak.

For windows I use either the acetate included in the kit or, more often then not, a product from MicroScale Industries call Krystal Klear.  It works like the Gallery Glass others have recommended.

I'm looking forward to following along with your adventures!   

I'll be looking in also Curt.....hope I get to meet you at Tom's. 

Good Afternoon,

Jerry thanks for your insight on the WW fluid. It seems for once I guessed correctly .

Thank you to Jeff, Gregory,  Massive Ralph for following and your encouragement. Bob I look forward to meeting you also.

Today I started with painting 2 pieces of scrap on one side with Krylon Dual Superbond Flat Black. After that dried I flipped the pieces over and experimented with the paint

On the 2 smaller pieces the right half's had a diluted A&I applied. After that dried I applied 3 coats of diluted craft paint which entirely covered the A&I. The large piece has a straight 2.5% A&I on the right side and 3 coats of paint. You can't tell in the photo but the big one when viewed closely has a slight darkness. Based on these tests I think I will go with full strength A&I and stop at 2 coats then make a decision about the 3rd coat.

The second picture is after spraying the back sides with the Krylon spray paint. I masked the front with blue painters tape that worked well.

My life is complete ! ! ! !

Ralph has re-appeared.

Welcome to the forum.

see ya
Bob

Off to a good start, Curt. I sent you a PM with what I hope will be useful links.

Dave K.

Curt,
You are welcome to any tips or insight I can offer, I owe the wonderful modelers that I learned from more than I can repay.  And, in that vein, if you decide to try to add some drybrushing, I find it much easier if I use a stiff bristle brush.  I have an inexpensive set of craft store stencil brushes, the ones sold for adding stenciling along interior walls.  I choose the size based on the effect I want to add.  Micromark has a really nice set of brushes designed for drybrushing models favored by Karl and others on this forum. 

I am a "dry sponger" when I paint my walls, but when I want to thin out the craft paints, I started using this Liquitex product- its a nice product for making the craft paint act like a "stain"- increases the drying time also. I have also used the stuff when I put paint in my airbrush...

Quote from: rpdylan on April 12, 2017, 11:28:25 AM
I am a "dry sponger" when I paint my walls, but when I want to thin out the craft paints, I started using this Liquitex product- its a nice product for making the craft paint act like a "stain"- increases the drying time also. I have also used the stuff when I put paint in my airbrush...

Flow-Aid is great stuff, even better when you use a 40% off craft ("Michaels"/"Hobby Lobby") coupon for it.  I have an old "sports water bottle" with the pop-up top, I mix Flow-Aid with distilled water and keep it in that bottle (clearly labeled "Do Not Drink.")   I also got a little dropper bottle from my wife that had contact lens solution.  I pried the top off, cleaned thoroughly, and put some Flow-Aid solution into that dropper bottle, to make it easy to mix small amounts of paint.


dave

Afternoon All,

Thank you to Dave K., Jerry, Bob C., and Dave for your support and information.

Today I put a coat of A&I on the outside wood surfaces. After that I trimmed all the plastic edges of the windows and doors, then lightly sprayed them with a rattle can of flat sand color (the lightest paint I could find here at the house). I figure it will be several days of applying thin coats of green on them.

I'm not sure how much I will get done between tomorrow and Monday since I have family duties this weekend.

Right now the thing that I am nervous about is putting on the trim before "raising the walls". I know several of you have said that you do this. I just don't see how I can be sure all the corners will look right doing it early. I will most likely attach the trim after the walls are glued together.

Curt,
I should have thought of this sooner.  Jimmy Diegnan posted a great 10 minute video by Doug Foscale on youtube on modeling wood walls.  In it Doug shows the basics of bracing and assembling the walls of a wood kit.  I will attempt to post the link, but sometimes links I post do not work, I confess to being 'puter challenged.  Should the link not work, go to youtube and search "Doug Foscale" and it should come up.  Here goes nothing, hope this works.   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUVcOkMIdtw

putting the trim on the gable walls while they are flat enables you to cut and sand the trim for the angle of the gable end wall. I put all my wall trim on after I have painted the walls and before I brace the walls. I lift some boards and I put in my nail holes after painting  (so the paint doesn't fill in the nail holes)- a hit with some AI "brings out" the holes and stains behind any boards that are lifted. After bracing I put all my windows in, window shades/ glazing,  add signs, wall castings (much easier to do with the walls laying flat)-- then I glue my walls together using a square/ 90 degree clamps, ect. Doing things in this order has served me well.  A nice demonstration of this method can be found on the Bob Mitchell DVD from Foscale (plus Bob is entertaining as hell)-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtRriBMo8mQ

Definitely put the trim on before assembling the walls! 👍🏻 By the way, the video clip is from the DVD I mentioned to you. You're doing great! 👍🏻🎉