Hello and welcome to the build thread of the Carolina Craftsman Kit #CCK1359 - "AD Low & Company".
It has been some time, a few years is more like it, that I have posted any build threads to the forum. I have been procrastinating about taking time to build kits and post because of business concerns, but I really need to get on with building some of the great kits I have accumulated over the years and time keeps marching on.
I have intended to participate in the challenges that Dan has started each year, but I just couldn't get moving on any one project. So this year, I thought I would start out easy on a smaller project and Jeff's kit fit the bill. So, a big thank you to Dan for giving me a good case of the ole' Jewish/Catholic guilt to get back to modeling and being responsible for getting so many great build threads going each year.
Also a big thank you to Jeff Grove for the kit. Jeff was in a generous mood about 4 years ago and sent Tom, Bob and myself a free kit from his ever expending excellent product line. It is a great, small footprint, structure that is adaptable for most any type of business that you would find in small town USA.
At this point, I'm not sure what that use will be, I just want to get started building again. I'll worry about what it will be when I get around to including it in the redesigned St.L&D Railroad.
Below are the requisite photos of the box and contents:
Exhibit #1 (ADL-002)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-260120115030-42696818.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 (ADL-003)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-260120115031-42697583.jpeg)
And of course, the box contents:
Exhibit #3 (ADL-007)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-260120115031-42698953.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 (ADL-008)(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-260120115031-426991319.jpeg)
Stay tuned.....
Greg,
I remember this kit although I don't think i have it.
I'll be following along.
I need to get my build challenge going also.
Tom ;D
Greg,
OMG, is that a new old cutting mat, an old new cutting mat or a new new cutting mat? :o :o
Tom ;D
Welcome to the challenge, Greg.
Looks like a nice kit, I'll be watching along with everyone else.
Jim
Greg,
Great to see you motivated to build something. Looking forward to this thread.
Greg
Great to have you join us with a build. Looks like a nice kit. How do you keep your cutting mat so clean?? ;) Okay, so Tom started it.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2020, 01:16:14 PM
Greg,
OMG, is that a new old cutting mat, an old new cutting mat or a new new cutting mat? :o :o
Tom ;D
Make that an old new mat.....the old old mat was nasty and I replaced it shortly before the photo was taken. Thanks for looking in. :)
Quote from: JimF on January 26, 2020, 01:21:16 PM
Welcome to the challenge, Greg.
Looks like a nice kit, I'll be watching along with everyone else.
Jim
Thanks for looking in Jim.....I think the kit is great because the structure can be used for so many types of small businesses that a modeler may need on his layout.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 26, 2020, 03:11:13 PM
Greg,
Great to see you motivated to build something. Looking forward to this thread.
Thanks for looking in Jerry.....sometimes age is a great motivator. ;D
Looking forward to seeing your build progress.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 26, 2020, 05:55:55 PM
Greg
Great to have you join us with a build. Looks like a nice kit. How do you keep your cutting mat so clean?? ;) Okay, so Tom started it.
Thanks for looking in John.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 27, 2020, 01:09:05 PM
Looking forward to seeing your build progress.
Hey Curt.....glad you stopped by.....don't expect Greg Speed on the build though. ;D
I guess there's Greg speed and then there's Greg speed. Opposite ends of the spectrum. ;)
I'll be following along as well. ;D
So good to see you back at it. Eager to follow along!
Greg, looks like an interesting build. I like those tarpaper add-ons--I think they add a lot of character. I'll be looking in.
--Opa George
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 27, 2020, 02:17:28 PM
I guess there's Greg speed and then there's Greg speed. Opposite ends of the spectrum. ;)
I'll be following along as well. ;D
Maybe I should should say glacial speed.....thanks for looking in Bob. :)
Quote from: Dave K. on January 27, 2020, 06:25:59 PM
So good to see you back at it. Eager to follow along!
Hi Dave.....its has been a while and I feel like I'm startin
g all over again. Hopefully I can get back in the grove without too many goof-ups. ;D
Thanks for looking in. :)
Quote from: Opa George on January 28, 2020, 07:14:54 AM
Greg, looks like an interesting build. I like those tarpaper add-ons--I think they add a lot of character. I'll be looking in.
--Opa George
Hey George.....thanks for looking in. :)
You're right about the add-on, it does add character, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the tarpaper add-on. If the structure turns out to be a profitable business, I think that type of addition would have to be a more permanent type of construction. I'll get it figured out later in the build. :-\
hey Greg:
Nice looking kit. I'll be following along.
Karl
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 28, 2020, 09:11:37 AM
Maybe I should should say glacial speed.....thanks for looking in Bob. :)
I work at geologic speed. In those terms, glaciers move quickly!!!
dave
Quote from: postalkarl on January 28, 2020, 05:53:43 PM
hey Greg:
Nice looking kit. I'll be following along.
Karl
Hi Karl.....thanks for looking in. It's a nice looking structure and an easy kit to start back with. :)
Quote from: deemery on January 28, 2020, 08:21:30 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 28, 2020, 09:11:37 AM
Maybe I should should say glacial speed.....thanks for looking in Bob. :)
I work at geologic speed. In those terms, glaciers move quickly!!!
dave
Maybe I'm not so slow after all.....good one Dave. ;D ;D ;D
What to heck is going on? ???
The d*#n forum won't accept today's update.....says to contact admin..... >:(
Maybe you're on double secret probation. :o
(https://www.curezone.org/upload/Members/New_Members/DoubleSecretProbation.jpg)
An employer once put me on "Double Secret Probation." I only found out when I asked why I got no pay raise at the end of the year (unlike everyone else.)
Needless to say, I took the hint and started looking for another job.
dave
Now, on to the fun stuff.....the build.
How about we revisit a topic that always generated a bit of a response on the forum.....nail holes in wood siding.
In the past, I have argued that the adding of nail holes to the kits did not represent the real life practice of carpenters. I have always held that view, in the real world in the houses and commercial structures that I designed and built, as well as modeling. I still maintain that this only applies to the lap and tongue & grove type of sidings.
In the cedar or redwood siding that I specified for frame housing, the nail heads were hidden under the lap. There were no nails on the weather exposed facing of each course of the siding.
This appears to a different animal, mainly non-lapped siding. Since this is a commercial property, built in the late 1940's, I assumed that they went with typical 1x10 lumber, not the more expensive T&G, V joint material that would more properly be used on a more expensive structure. This type of installation would more than likely be face nailed and sealed with caulking or wood filler over the nail heads.
I used 24" o.c. for the nail holes event though 16" o.c. is the standard for exterior wall construction. Using that close of center spacing is too busy in HO scale, not to mention, that adds a heck of a lot of nail holes. I also added a few vertical cuts on the board faces to represent the butted board ends.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-014)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-020220121836-428221694.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-015)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-020220121836-42823322.jpeg)
Continued in a few.....
Now that the "nail holes" were done, it's time to cut the wood stock for the recommended bracing. The next step, as any organized modeler would expect, is to get out the ole' Titebond and glue the bracing. That would normally not be a problem, but.....the glue was last used about 5 years ago and as you can see, below, it wasn't exactly craftsman quality.....never seen glue to go from a tan color to this funny looking orange before. Heading out to the box store to get a fresh supply.
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-100)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-020220121836-428251420.jpeg)
Again, not being sure what type of business this will be, I decided to aff a second floor that is not included in the kit. The horizontal piece of wood, about midway up the wall, will be used later as a ledger to support the second floor.
After the glue set, I added a coat of Scalecoat white on the interior side of the walls.
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-016)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-020220121836-428241218.jpeg)
That was quite the start.....hope things go better and the forum gets straightened out. It has been a real pain getting this posted today in 2 parts.
Next time.....
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 03, 2020, 09:35:05 AM
.....the glue was last used about 5 years ago and as you can see, below, it wasn't exactly craftsman quality.....
I looked at the photo before reading your note--thought "Hmm, new formula?" And I thought
I was aging poorly!
--Opa George
Looking good, Gregory.
Nice hippo in exhibit 3.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey Greg:
I have to agree with you on nail heads. They are usually under the flap. I add them for fun and it kinda make the building looks nice. The only building I have ever seen with exposed nail heads all over was in Salem Mass and it was built in the 1700's. I believe it's on the waterfront.
Karl
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 02, 2020, 01:32:30 PM
Maybe you're on double secret probation. :o
(https://www.curezone.org/upload/Members/New_Members/DoubleSecretProbation.jpg)
That movie was really scary.....reminded me to much of my days at college. My triple top secret probation was so secret that if they told me about it, they would have had to shoot me. ::)
Quote from: Opa George on February 03, 2020, 11:49:39 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 03, 2020, 09:35:05 AM
.....the glue was last used about 5 years ago and as you can see, below, it wasn't exactly craftsman quality.....
I looked at the photo before reading your note--thought "Hmm, new formula?" And I thought I was aging poorly!
--Opa George
It looked so bad George, I didn't even open it to see what it had turned into.....just right into the trash. :o
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 03, 2020, 01:16:17 PM
Looking good, Gregory.
Nice hippo in exhibit 3.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark.....the hippo belongs to one of our cairn terriers and has to go into emergency surgery to fix a torn seam so all the insides don't fall out. Amazing what we do for our pets. ;)
Quote from: postalkarl on February 03, 2020, 01:54:59 PM
Hey Greg:
I have to agree with you on nail heads. They are usually under the flap. I add them for fun and it kinda make the building looks nice. The only building I have ever seen with exposed nail heads all over was in Salem Mass and it was built in the 1700's. I believe it's on the waterfront.
Karl
Hi Karl.....I agree about the nail heads giving the model more visual appeal. They should be "toned" down and a bit more subtle once I get the siding painted.
Years ago, Pegi went to the shore in Salem in the beginning of July and actually saw people on blankets on the pebbly beach in swim suits. We were standing up on the sidewalk with lightweight jackets on trying to keep warm. You can't transplant people from South Florida (Pegi is from Miami, I grew up in Ft. Lauderdale) to Massachusetts.....to darn cold and humid. :(
Looks great Greg.
Wife has repaired dog toys several times. Now Titus thinks that -everything- wife sews must be a dog toy :-)
dave
Not much progress on the build to report this week.
It was a great week for aviation though, I got to take a ride in a Beech Bonanza A33 from Orlando Exec to Immokalee, FL for lunch. Didn't get the infamous $100 dollar hamburger.....had a $150 enchilada instead.
Immokelee is an agricultural town on the west side of the state, hence the Mexican cuisine, a bit northeast of Naples. It was a short flight, about 145 miles, but lasted a bit longer than necessary because air traffic control vectoring us all over the place to avoid other traffic coming or going to major airports near our route.
The plane was nice and equipped with a full Garmin glass cockpit retro fit panel for this older model plane. It was really neat on the return trip, the clouds had built up in the afternoon and we got to fly in and out of some as headed back to Orlando. Great fun.....
Exhibit #1 - (N6038Q-002)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-090220114726-42959191.jpeg)
The only work I got done on the kit was painting the walls. I ventured into a new universe this time and tried a water based paint.....Poly Scale - GN Big Sky Blue. They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks.....I started working with Floquil years ago and I'm so used to working with oils and I really don't want to change paint type at this late stage, but you have to go with the flow! (pitiful pun intended)
I have stocked up on ScaleCoat, but their color selection is a bit thin so at some point, like this one, I'll have to make a change to get the colors I need. I wanted to go for a faded light blue look and I couldn't find the shade I needed in oil in my dwindling stash.
I mixed a little white in with the GN blue and thinned it out to almost a wash to get it to the shade I wanted as you can see below.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-019):
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-090220094731-42956101.jpeg)
I dry brushed a bit more white on the walls, but forgot to take pictures. You'll be able to see that when I post the photos of the assembled walls next time.
Later.....
Hello again.....
As you may have noticed, unlike some retired people that will remain nameless (specifically ACL1504), I don't have the time to write long how to's for this build, as I am somewhat still gainfully employed. Instead, I will do a cliff note version of the build and if y'all have any questions, I'll do my best to get them answered.
I got the walls assembled this past week and started on the white wash to tone down the base blue that was used on the bare basswood.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-020)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104647-430681410.jpeg)
Exihibit #2 - (ADL-021)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104647-43070489.jpeg)
I'll add the corner trim, doors and windows after I get the walls to the color I'm going for.
One added advantage to many layers of paint, the nail holes look to be a bit more subtle than in the photos of the bare walls.
On to the floor.....
Since I wanted to build this kit from Jeff, I haven't given it the full thought that would normally be done with a kit that will be incorporated into the St.L&D world.
I learned a long time ago that if a structure were build without the lighting and any possible interior detail behind an exterior window or open door taken into account during assembly, it would be next to impossible to do any of those items after assembly.
With that in mind, I included the floor ledgers on the exterior walls.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-040)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104829-430741649.jpeg)
Next, I took some 1/16" sheet stock, not included with the kit, cut it to fit and added 1/8"x1/8" bracing on the bottom.
Exihibit #2 - (ADL-036)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104647-43071749.jpeg)
It's built to drop in without using glue in case it is necessary to remove it at some future date.
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-040a)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104829-43075986.jpeg)
On to the roof.....
As with the floor, the roof is assembled so that it can be removed.
The kit came with cardboard sheets for the roof decking, but I wanted a bit more stability for an assembly that is to be handled.
I cut some 1/16" sheet stock to size and braced it with 1/8" solid truss pieces cut with the same slope as the gable ends.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-037)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104647-43072101.jpeg)
Since I do a lot of builds with exposed rafter tails, I decided to go with a closed soffit so I added 2"x8" fascia to the edge of the roof sheathing.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-038)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-160220104648-430731092.jpeg)
There is some roof detail with the kit and I will get to that and the roofing material in the near future. For now, it will be on to the trim, windows and doors for the exterior walls this coming week.
All for now, next time.....
Very nice Greg.
Thanks for looking in Curt.....hope you get you house back in order and get to the new layout soon. :)
Greg,
Just getting caught up on this thread. First, nice to see you back in the game so to speak.
Walls look really nice, seems like you have started a new trend with the acrylic paint. Once you get used to using acrylics I think you'll like their versatility. I really like the changes you made to the roof to make it stronger as well as removable.
Thanks for looking in and the kind comments Jerry..... :)
It has been awhile and I hope I can keep setting aside a bit of time to get to the really challenging kits I have in the stash. Gotta to start sometime. ;D
I think you have already started!!!!!
Good looking building Greg.
Jim
Good to see you getting back into building, Greg.
Really nice work on the kit, gonna steal, I mean borrow, that second floor method :)
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on February 17, 2020, 09:27:39 PM
I think you have already started!!!!!
Good looking building Greg.
Jim
Thanks Jim.....really glad to hear from you.....keep well. :)
Quote from: JimF on February 18, 2020, 02:16:31 AM
Good to see you getting back into building, Greg.
Really nice work on the kit, gonna steal, I mean borrow, that second floor method :)
Jim
Thanks Jim, glad to be getting back into it.....have fun and steal away..... :)
Greg,
Your build is coming along very nicely. I like the faded blue on the exterior walls.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 20, 2020, 10:29:57 AM
Greg,
Your build is coming along very nicely. I like the faded blue on the exterior walls.
Tom ;D
Thanks for looking in Tom..... :)
Nice sturdy looking roof, Greg.
--Opa George
Thanks George....I got a bit lazy and figured since it won't be seen I'd make up the trusses from solid material instead of stick building from 2x material. :)
Hi all.....
A wee bit of progress was made this week.....despite having to do the 8 to 7 routine.
I painted the trim, cut the pieces to length and glued them on. Also, I added a little more dry brushed white to give the walls a more faded look.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-025)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163059-431641038.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-026)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163059-43180724.jpeg)
I set the roof on to see how it will look with it in place.
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-029)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163100-43181306.jpeg)
Continued.....
The remainder of the photos continue the look of the building from different angles.
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-030)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163100-431821863.jpeg)
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-031)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163100-431832280.jpeg)
Exhibit #6 - (ADL-032)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-220220163214-43184509.jpeg)
That's all for now......
Greg,
This build really looks great. Coming together with all the trimmings. 8)
Tim ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 22, 2020, 05:03:04 PM
Greg,
This build really looks great. Coming together with all the trimmings. 8)
Tim ;D
Thanks "Tim" appreciate the compliment and pun. :)
Nice looking building--nice proportions. I like that inset part, too. Adds interest.
--Opa George
Thanks George.....I agree, the overhang keeps it from being a boring 2 story box and is great for loading trucks in bad weather. :)
Very nice so far Greg.
Looks great so far! Keep up the good work! :D
Thanks Curt.....hope your house repairs are coming along well, so you can get back to your empire. :)
Thanks Bob.....not up to speed yet, but it's slowly getting there. :)
Greg,
Not to worry, you are much further along than me. I'll not meet the finish deadline. But I'll finish my challenge non the less.
Tom ;D
Greg and Tom at least you are doing as kit...sigh.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2020, 09:16:40 AM
Greg,
Not to worry, you are much further along than me. I'll not meet the finish deadline. But I'll finish my challenge non the less.
Tom ;D
Maybe for not Tom, but in a week or two?.....you've be doing layout work, structures and locos at Greg Speed.....not me.....if only I could build a kit using a throttle. ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2020, 10:23:39 AM
Greg and Tom at least you are doing as kit...sigh.
Quit the pity party Curt.....you've got a whole new layout to design & build..... ::) Thanks for looking in. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 27, 2020, 02:23:57 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2020, 09:16:40 AM
Greg,
Not to worry, you are much further along than me. I'll not meet the finish deadline. But I'll finish my challenge non the less.
Tom ;D
Maybe for not Tom, but in a week or two?.....you've be doing layout work, structures and locos at Greg Speed.....not me.....if only I could build a kit using a throttle. ;D
Greg Speed, stay tuned to my brass painting thread. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2020, 03:19:03 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 27, 2020, 02:23:57 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2020, 09:16:40 AM
Greg,
Not to worry, you are much further along than me. I'll not meet the finish deadline. But I'll finish my challenge non the less.
Tom ;D
Maybe for not Tom, but in a week or two?.....you've be doing layout work, structures and locos at Greg Speed.....not me.....if only I could build a kit using a throttle. ;D
Greg Speed, stay tuned to my brass painting thread. 8)
Tom ;D
smart a#! :) :) :)
OK Greg I will quit whining :).
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2020, 06:30:34 PM
OK Greg I will quit whining :) .
Okay, a little whining is permissible.....especially if you start posting the plans for the new empire. :)
Hey Greg:
It's coming along nicely. Keep the [pics flowing.
Karl
Thanks Karl.....I'll post a bit of progress soon (with pictures). :)
Not much got done last week, but I am making a bit of progress.
All the trim pieces were furnished with the kit, but not all. In looking at all the wood sided building kits in my stash and here on the forum, I have noticed that the use of trim pieces along the top of the siding, where it meets the soffit, has generally been overlooked by all the manufacturers I have seen. This might be a good kit to try adding that trim to.
In the 1:1 world, when using lap siding, I would normally use 2x4 material at all outside wall corners and crown pieces on the wall at the soffit and 2x2 material at the inside wall corners.
The same 2x jambs, headers and sills would be used around all window and door openings. The carpenters would install all the trim first and then the siding would be run to it.
I got some 2x4 material from the supply, cut it to fit, painted it with white ScaleCoat and glued it to the walls. Below are some pictures with the trim attached. First the side,
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-044)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-290220162240-432921460.jpeg)
then the front trim.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-045)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-290220162240-432951164.jpeg)
The trim pieces look fine, but I'm trying to decide if this was worth the effort in this small scale.
The other task I managed to complete was the little roof structure. I cut the corners pieces to fit, glued it all together and gave it a quick painting. I am not sure what function it serves (like ventilation, hoisting, etc.) and am not sure if I will add it to the roof or not.
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-043)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-290220162240-43297901.jpeg)
Rear building addition coming soon.....
Greg,
Looking good there my friend. You are correct about the kits lacking the gabled siding. I've added that trim to my last 12 or so builds.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.....
Greg,
Looks good, I vote "yes" on the trim. Like you, I sometimes question the improved realism of the structure versus the time involved to add "missing" trim, rafter tails, etc. IMO, the extra time and effort is worthwhile on what I term "signature structures", while buildings that are further from the viewer and/or "filler structures" are not worth the extra enhancements. I justify this because I am a layout modeler, not a contest modeler. Not sure why you need to know this, but sometimes it is nice to know other modelers have similar thoughts.
FWIW, I often omit kit components that seem to serve no purpose. I recently completed Bar Mills Staton Marine and eliminated the dormer because it looked improbable to me.
Jerry, Everyone likes a little trim. Often the more the better. Nice work as always.
ed
Thanks for looking in Ed. :)
You're spot on about some kit designs Jerry. The other thing that is a problem , with some kit makers, is that they don't think much about the dimensions of the kits they put out.
For example, I have seen some a building that scales a bit less than 6' wide, are 2 stories without an outside staircase and wonder how the little people would get from one floor to the other. The staircase will take up at least 3'-4" of the width and leave little room to get around, let alone place any furniture or equipment on the first floor.
Thanks for the comments. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 08, 2020, 10:24:00 AMFor example, I have seen some a building that scales a bit less than 6' wide, are 2 stories without an outside staircase and wonder how the little people would get from one floor to the other. The staircase will take up at least 3'-4" of the width and leave little room to get around, let alone place any furniture or equipment on the first floor.
Well, there is the concept of selective compression. If all the kits were made to the exact dimensions of the prototype we wouldn't be able to fit nearly as many structures on a layout. Kind of like we don't actually model the entire main line so we'll have miles upon miles of track between our towns and cities. We have to sacrifice a little bit here and there and let our mind/imagination fill in the blanks. ;)
Often 'selective compression' is in the eye of the beholder. Many SMRW kits look too compressed to me, particularly when I've seen them on layouts. Some FSM kits look "funny" when I try to reason about how the structure would actually work. One example was FSM 155, the long coaling dock. This had both the main docks and then a bucket winch that was also for 'fueling locos.' Turns out the original design was for ore loading. When I built that kit, I re-purposed the bucket winch for sanding locos.
When I start on my urban scene, I'll probably compress the depth of buildings, but try to preserve a reasonable width/street view.
dave
Hi Bob.....you're right about the compression, but you have to use a little judgement and common sense when it'd done.
From the kits I've seen over the years, FOS seems to come to mind as one that abuses it more frequently than others and to a greater extent. Don't ask me which kits, I don't remeber, but some of the smaller kits and some of the commercial buildings I've seen, just don't look like they have the space to do what the sign on the building says they are doing.
An example of what you are talking about in my world is Union Station in St. Louis. I always loved going thru there on my way to visit relatives and get to Columbia for university. When I got back in the hobby, for the third time, I thought it would be fun to make it a focal point for the layout and got a set of plans from Washington University archives.
When I got it digitize into our CAD program and scaled down to HO scale, it turns out that I would need a 14'x22' space just for the station tracks up to where it connects to the mainline. Not to mention the over 140 switches and crossovers. On to Plan B..... ::)
Thanks for looking in. :)
I think most of what it boils down to is what looks acceptable to the modelers eye.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 09, 2020, 09:15:12 AM
I think most of what it boils down to is what looks acceptable to the modelers eye.
Exactly.....
Quote from: deemery on March 08, 2020, 12:17:18 PM
Often 'selective compression' is in the eye of the beholder. Many SMRW kits look too compressed to me, particularly when I've seen them on layouts. Some FSM kits look "funny" when I try to reason about how the structure would actually work. One example was FSM 155, the long coaling dock. This had both the main docks and then a bucket winch that was also for 'fueling locos.' Turns out the original design was for ore loading. When I built that kit, I re-purposed the bucket winch for sanding locos.
When I start on my urban scene, I'll probably compress the depth of buildings, but try to preserve a reasonable width/street view.
dave
Spot on Dave.....I agree that we have to compress some building to fit in our very limited little worlds, but sometimes it has been done to such an extent that the structure look "off". I would expect that this process is a very tricky part of the kit manufacturer's business.
Greg,
Okay, back to your build. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 10, 2020, 10:45:17 AM
Greg,
Okay, back to your build. 8)
Tom ;D
Hey Tom.....I'll probably have something later in the week.....
Greg,
You are still way ahead of me. I'm waiting on more Tichy windows for the second floor portion.
Hopefully I'll have an update on my build then as well.
Tom ;D
Hey Greg :
it's coming along very nicely. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on March 10, 2020, 05:35:26 PM
Hey Greg :
it's coming along very nicely. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Thanks Karl.....will do. :)
Coming along nicely. But what with all the soap boxing what happened to Greg speed. Just kidding, it is nice to see a professional doing a build.
Mike :)
Groovy included a shed type of addition on the rear of the building. As you can see in the photos of the box cover (see pg. #1), he has the walls covered with tar paper.
This type of construction was usually done for very temporary or short term use, as the sun will leach the oils out of the tar paper and it will leak like a sieve and eventually blow away in a strong breeze. Not the preferred method of building, if the intent is for the space to be used for a longer period.
I didn't have anything in my supply of wood that would match what Jeff used in the kit, so, 1x12 material would have to do. Before gluing, the wood was scraped to give it some grain and metal brushed.
I used the heavy stock paper wall that was included in the kit as a template and glued the wood vertically onto the front and both sides, trimming out for the window and door openings. See below.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-039)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172356-433271681.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-046)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172356-433781703.jpeg)
I'll get to bracing and gluing it together next time.
Greg,
Looks good so far and should contrast nicely with the main structure walls. Are you going to do a bracing clinic, too?
Greg,
You should have said something yesterday. I have more scale wood than any hobby shop. 8)
Tom ;D
Looks good Greg.
If you have 'slivers' of stripwood, you could cover the lines between the boards and turn it into board-and-batten siding!
dave
Thanks Jerry.....I'll leave the bracing clinic to Tom, he is doing one on his Bonney Wrench thread now. ;)
Quote from: madharry on March 12, 2020, 06:30:32 AM
Coming along nicely. But what with all the soap boxing what happened to Greg speed. Just kidding, it is nice to see a professional doing a build.
Mike :)
I'm surprised I've done this much Mike.....speediness won't be one the agenda for quite some time. Thanks for looking in. ;)
Hey Tom.....I've got a bunch too, but thought this might be a good choice for an addition. Thanks for the offer. :)
Thanks for looking in Curt.....see you this afternoon. :)
Quote from: deemery on March 15, 2020, 06:10:14 PM
If you have 'slivers' of stripwood, you could cover the lines between the boards and turn it into board-and-batten siding!
dave
Hi Dave.....I like the look of board and batten siding and have some 1x2's in the wood pile, but thought that it was a bit more work than I wanted to do. I did it on an O scale building a few years ago and that was a bit of bother, but in HO.....oh my. ::)
Greg,
I have always thought of the battens as rough cut 1"x2", or like the ones on my barn that are closer to 3/4" x 1 1/2". Local sawmills now seem to be supplying 1" x 3" pieces as battens. Maybe not so tough to add if the wider sizes are used. Not trying to make you more work, I like the individual boards just fine.
Greg,
What happened to Gregspeed.......................
Nice so far............
Mike
Quote from: jerryrbeach on March 17, 2020, 10:48:51 AM
Greg,
I have always thought of the battens as rough cut 1"x2", or like the ones on my barn that are closer to 3/4" x 1 1/2". Local sawmills now seem to be supplying 1" x 3" pieces as battens. Maybe not so tough to add if the wider sizes are used. Not trying to make you more work, I like the individual boards just fine.
Hey Jerry.....lumber sizes have been standard at less than the stated dimensions for a long time now, mainly because of the loss from the rough cut to the mill cut.
A 1x2 is 3/4"x1-1/2", a 2x4 is 1-1/2"x3-1/2", etc. The lumber mills started taking out for the sawcut over 100 years ago. I did an extensive remodel for an architect in Pompano Beach back in the 70's on a house that was built back in the 1920's. The 2x2 and 2x6 studs actually measured 2"x4" and 2"x6".
A side note.....the lumber was cut from Dade County pine and the owner wanted them salvaged and used in the new addition. The wood had gotten so hard as it aged that you couldn't drive a nail thru it without pre-drilling a hole. After the guys had given it a mornings work, I calculated the time it would require to finish and gave the owner the cost of using his old wood and he said to scrap the stuff and buy new.....he couldn't afford to use the free lumber with the price of the additional labor. ;D
The jury is still out on the battens, but it is looking like it probably won't happen on this one. :-\
Quote from: madharry on March 17, 2020, 06:53:26 PM
Greg,
What happened to Gregspeed.......................
Nice so far............
Mike
Greg Speed for modeling got lost in the 6 years I've been absent from building.....not in running a steamer down on Tom's layout. ;)
I've started off with easier kits and will have to build up the ole' skills before I take on any of the great kits I have in the stash. The plan is to increase the degree of difficulty a bit with each kit.
I've been looking at the FSM kits that I have and have tentatively selected one of the moldy oldies as the next victim on the road back.
Stay tuned.....
Hey Greg:
Walls are looking just great so far. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
Karl
Thanks Karl.....I should have a bit more done to post soon.
Hello again.
This installment is about the bracing and blocking I used to get the assembly ready to mount against the rear wall of the main building.
In the photo below, all the bracing is glued and the glue blocking is added to the rear of the addition to aid in attaching it to the main structure.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-047)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172356-43379414.jpeg)
The next 3 photos show the sides and back wall of the addition. The wood is prepped and ready for painting. After painting, the door and window will be glued in place, but that will be another day.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-049)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172356-4338066.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-051)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172522-433811700.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-052)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172522-43382884.jpeg)
The final photo is of the assembly sitting in position against the back wall of the main building.
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-053)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-060320172522-4338326.jpeg)
I'm not sure about the scale of the addition in relation to the main building. The main building is 18' from slab to the top of plate of the second floor. This is reasonable for two floors of 9' +/- and floor joists and flooring of 12" +/-. The height of the addition, slab to the top plate, is 12'-9".
With walls that high, they appear to be a bit exaggerated and not in scale with the main building. I wish I had caught this before everything was glued together.
I'll have to look at it some more before I decide on using the addition or leave it off. And thoughts?
See y'all next time.....
Greg,
I vote to attach it to the main building. The height may not make "logical" sense, but the viewer does not know why it was constructed this way. Did it originally house an over height (more than 8' tall machine)? Was it a boiler house that had height added to make piping access easier? Is part of the floor elevated?
At one of the early Craftsman Structure shows I attended a Brian Nolan clinic on diorama composition. One of the things I learned was that a rectangular two (or more) story building, while prototypic does not draw the viewer's eye into the scene well. The use of single story additions brings the viewer's eye down from the tall roof to the ground and then to the details of the scene. With that in mind, maybe you could add an elevated fuel oil tank by the end of the addition. Add some barrels and crates and the viewer is now entranced with the overall scene.
Just my two cents and maybe not worth even that... ;D
You make a good point Jerry.....when I chatted with Pegi about this, she agreed with what you wrote and said that I am looking at from the logical point of view of a builder, not from the way a scene should be viewed as a composition for others to look at.
Basically, she said to lighten up and not be such a stiff.....it's just a model and the point of any hobby is to relax and have fun. :o
Hello again.
As y'all know by now, I am not satisfied with using rolled felt as a roof covering for the structures I build that are to represent a more permanent business or residence. This installment is about the standing seam metal roofing that I chose for the roof covering on this structure.
My assumption was that when this building was built, the owners wanted and could afford a more substantial material than shingles or corrugated metal roof covering. They wanted a good looking standing seam roof, but couldn't justify copper or stainless steel, so they chose a more reasonable painted steel sheet metal to use for the roofing.
For the time frame that this building was supposedly built (late 30's / 40's), the usual dimensions for this type of metal roofing system was usually 10' or 12' long x 2' wide panels. Today panels can be produced at any length thereby eliminating the laps in the field between the eave and the ridge.
The panels were attached thru the underlayment (usually 30# felt) to the roof sheathing and was locked together at the standing seam. The photo below shows the first course at 10' and a second course up to the ridge cut to about 6' - rear elevation, front elevation & cupola.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-057)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170046-43948860.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-059)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170046-43949506.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-063)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170046-43950457.jpeg)
Next up is to add the flashing. The ridge pieces covers the gap that is formed along the ridge line and must be capped to prevent water intrusion. The standard face of each side of the ridge flashing in real 1:1 buildings is about 6". I think it is to bit narrow in HO scale so I added an inch or so to each face for a better visual. I cut the sheet metal stock into 10' lenghts and put it on a baby brake, I got from MicroMart, to bend it to an angle to match the roof pitch.
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-065)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170219-439511534.jpeg)
I then cut pieces for the angle flashing for where the lower roof meets the vertical wood building wall and the angle and ell pieces to fit around the bottom and sides of the cupola.
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-068)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170219-43952589.jpeg)
It finished up the flashing with the cap flashing at the ridge of the cupola roof.
Exhibit #6 - (ADL-070)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-190420170219-43953989.jpeg)
As you might have noticed, I did not add the flashing at the eaves or the rakes at the gable ends. The flashing I did was enough of a pain and the eave and rake flashing, with it's narrow face, would have been a giant pain.
Standing seam metal roofing has been around for centuries. In the early years the material usually used was lead or copper. By the late 1800's they started using steel and in the 1900's aluminum. The steel was galvanized to help resist rust (the galvanization process can be seen in the shiny silver surface when it is new) and before WWII, they began offering it in a few basic colors.....white, red, green, etc.
I'll get the roofing painted and post more pictures.
See y'all next time.....
Hey Greg:
the roof looks great so far. Can't wait to see what you do with it color wise.
Karl
Hi Greg,
Just catching up with this thread after more than a few days. You've made nice progress and it looks good. I followed with interest your musings about the addition dimensions. Now that you have it on, it looks good and it visually fits. A smaller addition would not have added the same degree of visual interest.
Nice job on the roof, as well. I've always liked that style. Very neat job.
--Opa George
Looks good Greg, I would have struggled with the capping.
The roofing looks great Greg. Is the ridge cap wood or metal?
Thanks for looking in Karl.....I should have some pictures by this weekend. :)
Hey George.....appreciate you looking in and the kind words. I'll glue the addition on after I get the roof painted later this week. The size still bothers me, but after all that work, it will go on. :)
Today's episode is dedicated to the newest adventure around these parts - the use of the air brush.
I received an Iwata Eclipse air brush and compressor for a friend who was into N scale, but couldn't continue because of tremors he had developed in recent years. Not long before he decided he couldn't continue in the hobby, he had purchased this rather nice air brush and only got to use it a few times.
When he passed it onto me, I brought it home poured some paint and thinner into a bottle and proceeded to try it out on a piece of cardboard. It worked fine, me.....not so much. I cleaned it up, lubricated it and put it back in it's box....this was back in 2010 or so.
Big disclaimer.....this was the first and only time I have ever used an air brush.....till this Thursday.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-075)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240420152502-439902491.jpeg)
I decided that the metal roofing on this building should get a paint job, but that applying the paint with a brush would probably not be a good idea. But thru luck and the kindness of friends, I remembered that I was the proud owner and so far, incompetent user of an air brush. I also remembered that I have a friend that is an air brush guru and master painter of all things steam.....and has miles of patience when it comes to helping a friend in need.
So off to Tom's on Thursday with metal roofing in hand for a private tutoring session. Everything was going so well, the drive down, the air elbow bumps (to keep out of trouble from the virus police), the tutorial on the care and use of the air brush and a short demonstration. Then, since all good things must come to an end, he handed me the air brush.
Well, I'm here to complain that those bottles that hold the paint under the brush are very poorly deigned.....they have a hole in the top and if you tip them to far down, the paint comes out of the hole.....who knew.....bad design, needs fixing. As you might have guessed, there was paint all over me, Tom's pavers and his air brush. Seems I was concentrating on the metal roof and not paying any attention to the fact that I was bending over to the point that that bad design bit me on the butt.
Oh boy! No defense here, but an amazing reaction.....Tom didn't stroke out, blow a gasket or cry. He got that grin of his (which you aren't sure means he is being kind dealing with a klutz or he is going to pull out a gun and put me out of his misery), grabbed a rag and the acetone and calmely commented that he should have given
me a few other pointers.
We got everything cleaned up and he firmly demonstrated proper techsniques to prevent any future disasters and we got the rest of the roof completed, as seen below.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-071)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240420152502-439862174.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-072)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240420152502-4398757.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-073)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240420152502-439881701.jpeg)
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-074)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240420152502-439892362.jpeg)
After enjoying a few minutes of chatting about our misspent youths, I headed home for some additional practice.
This went well until the slot in the brush where that poorly designed bottle fits decided to get clogged. Enough messes for one day.....clean the brush and get back to work. I definitely need a bit more practice, but I can see a small bit of improvement.....this will take a bit of getting used to, but I can see the benefits of using this over hand brushing on some of the bigger structures in my stash.
More next time.....and a BIG "THANKS TOM".....your patience and help are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Greg,
The roofs look really great on the structure. We certainly had fun yesterday. Once you get a little more practice, you'll use the air brush much more.
And, you are very welcome. I was happy to help. What else would we be doing on our Corona Vacation.
Tom ;D
Greg,
The adventures of airbrushing... Up until about six months ago I last used my airbrush probably 20 years ago when painting some boxcars I built from Tichy kits. That was my first time spraying acrylics after years of Floquil and it went seamlessly. Last fall I wanted to airbrush a truck I was building. I checked out a couple YouTube videos, mixed my acrylic brew and whoosh, what a nasty mess ensued. There was no recovery so I tossed the truck in the Superclean, stripped it and started over. This time I went back to my old standby, dug out my Floquil and had at it. Well, sh*t. After a couple light passes I had a puddled mess. And, that is where it stands today. The moral of the story? If you don't use it, you lose it! ;D Don't feel bad, back in the dark ages I used to do custom painting and building and now, I sure wish I lived closer to Tom and could tap into his expertise.
As far as your roof. It looks great. FWIW, depending on the age of the metal roofing, it could have been painted and would by now be streaky, to say the least. At least in my part of the country it is common use a silver asphalt based paint to paint the roof, especially those on barns, etc. I have always brushed this onto my roofs, my dad (and now my nephew) had the roof on that barn sprayed by a commercial company. The metal roof on that barn was installed in the mid-1930's, and with the re-painting is still shedding water today, roughly 85 years later.
My point? I brush paint my models' metal roofs with a couple thin coats applied vertically. By the time I add even a smattering of rust to the roof it looks fine. Not to say you shouldn't airbrush yours if that is your method, just that you can IMO get a realistic looking metal roof without breaking out the airbrush.
Jerry, I get good results from the inexpensive TCPGlobal airbrushes. My guess would be that the seals in your airbrush failed.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 24, 2020, 06:00:58 PM
Jerry, I get good results from the inexpensive TCPGlobal airbrushes. My guess would be that the seals in your airbrush failed.
dave
Dave,
I'm pretty sure it is 110% operator error in not getting the correct paint mixture, spray needle pattern adjustment, and air pressure. I did pull the airbrush completely apart and cleaned it and all the seals seemed fine.
Are the TCP Global brushes similar to the ones at Harbor Freight? Just curious, mine is an old Badger brush and I thought the harbor freight brushes looked more like a copy of my old Badger.
Hi Jerry.....sounds like you had a fun time too. I have always hand painted Floquil with a brush and using the air brush this was quite interesting.
Trying to hand paint any large kit with a brush is very time consuming and I can see where this will come in handy with a few of the larger FSM, B.T.S., SRMW and SW kits.
Also in looking at the finish the air brush does, it would have been great to use on a wooden boat hull I hand painted years ago. It would have given me a smoother, better looking finish.
Live and learn.....thanks for looking in. :)
Hmmm....if you spill paint from a bottom feed bottle remind me not to lend you my airbrush with the color cup on top. ;D ;D ;D
I hope to break out my airbrush this weekend to paint a slew (over 60) of windows and doors for the build I'm currently working on.
Jerry, I haven't looked at the Harbor Freight brushes. I know the TCPGlobal brushes use cheap rubber seals, in fact I had to replace a seal in my favorite brush (I got a Harbor Freight neoprene seal set, 250 o-rings I won't use for the 6 I needed :-) :-) )
dave
Hey Greg:
It's looking really great.
Karl
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 25, 2020, 08:41:12 AM
Hmmm....if you spill paint from a bottom feed bottle remind me not to lend you my airbrush with the color cup on top. ;D ;D ;D
I hope to break out my airbrush this weekend to paint a slew (over 60) of windows and doors for the build I'm currently working on.
You're probably right Bob.....the bottom fed brush was dangerous enough, but the open top cup would add a whole new dimension of me getting into disaster. ;D
Thanks for the nice thoughts and looking in Karl. :)
Quote from: Lynnb on April 20, 2020, 12:07:51 PM
Looks good Greg, I would have struggled with the capping.
Thanks Lynn.....the ridge cap wasn't too bad, except that it was so narrow (scale 8 or 10 inches I think) it was hard to position on the brake to get equal width on both sides. Had to scrap 2 before I got on that was right. ::)
Hello and happy times.....the stay at home is slowly being lifted!
I've made a little progress on this build and the end is getting in sight.
I wanted to get the window and door glazing done, but after getting off to a rocky start.....I got aggravated and quit. I'll get back to it later this week and hope it will go a bit better.
I moved on to the little things that I've been putting off, mainly the perimeter gaps between the bracing and the sub-floor for the 2nd floor.....see page #3.
I wasn't thinking ahead when I installed the bracing Jeff recommends and forgot about the removable floor I was going to put in for the 2nd floor. As a result, I cut the sub-floor material to the inside dimension of the bracing inside of the inside dimension of the exterior walls. I probably also got lazy or in a hurry and didn't cut it to the walls and add notches in it to allow for the wall bracing.
To remedy the gap, where light could leak thru, I used some scale 12" material and glued it to the top of the sub-floor between the vertical bracing. This should be a good enough fix, as long as nobody gets close enough to look in the windows.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-076)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-030520130150-441201876.jpeg)
Next, I installed the large doors on the 1st floor. The opening in the wall is just a tad larger then the doors and they are of the peel & stick variety and there is nothing but air in the gap.....nothing for the doors to be adhered to. Looking at Jeff's instructions, I didn't find any mention of the door installation, so I jury rigged a backing and glued it to the inside of the wall.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-077)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-030520130150-441212258.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-078)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-030520130150-44122131.jpeg)
With the support in place, I installed the doors and trim.
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-079)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-030520130150-44123195.jpeg)
That's all I've had time for this week. I'll tackle the window glazing again and finish up some of the minor details and be close to the end for this build.
See y'all next time.....
Looks great Greg. I'm enjoying the build along with you!
John
Greg,
This is really looking good. Great build.
Tom ;D
Coming on nicely, Greg.
Cheers,Mark.
It looks great Greg.
Thanks John.....I'm having a fun time with the modeling again. :)
Appreciate the compliment Tom..... :)
Thanks for looking in Mark..... :)
Thanks Curt.....the kinks are slowly getting worked out. ;)
I'm getting close to the end for this one and I can't procrastinate with the darn window glazing any longer.
The first two I tried before popped off when I inserted the frame into the wall. I finally cured this with re-cutting the acetate a bit smaller.
The next problem I had was with the glue. I have been using the new bottle of Titebond that I just purchased and after gluing a couple of window frames, it dawned on me that this stuff doesn't dry clear like white glue. The 5 year old bottle of canopy glue that I have looks to be reasonably okay after a good mixing, so I tried that out.
It seemed to work out okay, but I am less than pleased with the results. My glazing gluing skills efinitely need a lot of work. The results are below.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-080)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-080520151752-44178696.jpeg)
I then got all the windows and doors glued onto the building walls.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-081)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-080520151752-441791192.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-082)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-080520151752-441801542.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-085)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-080520151752-441811299.jpeg)
I decided that this structure would need a foundation, so a slab on grade was decided upon and cut from a piece of 1/16" sheet stock. After getting it cut, the area under the overhang was scored with a #11 blade and stained for a concrete look.
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-086)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-080520151752-44182107.jpeg)
I'll get to the miscellaneous details, trim, light wire holes drilled, hoist brace and pulley, etc. completed and post those next time....
Excellent modeling Greg. I use WS Foam Tack glue. It has a quick drying rate.
Very nice Greg , the light blue is a great color.
Thanks Curt.....you can give me details about the glue when we chat next. :)
Thanks Jan.....when I started the kit, I wanted a bit of a different look and decided on a faded out blue. I'm happy with the way the main building came out, but the addition still needs a bit of work. :)
Hey Greg:
It's looking great. I like the color you chose. What shad of blue is it?
Karl
Thanks Karl. :)
The walls were painted several years ago when I first started the kit and I didn't write down the color. I know it was Polly Scale, as this was the first time I had tried a water based paint on a model.
In looking thru my stash, my best guess is that the base is "GN Big Sky Blue" with some white mixed in and a white wash applied over the dried first coat.
Onto the miscellaneous details, but first.....
There was a problem with the foundation that kind of reminds me why some of my clients specify post-tensioned slabs in some areas of Texas.....mainly around the Dallas area.
Clay heaves in the rainy season and has an alarming habit of moving the slabs in the most inconvenient areas. The model foundation must have experienced some of this on the workbench.
The 1/16" piece that I cut from sheet stock began to curl at two of the corners so some post-tensioning was needed on a 1:87 scale.
Pieces of bracing were cut, glued, clamped and left to cure overnight....problem solved.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-087)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140520091520-442251683.jpeg)
Next up was to cut holes in the foundation and 2nd floor to provide access for future lighting. I want to add a ceiling light over the covered loading area in the front and a goose neck light over the rear door. I''ll get to that after I attend a lighting clinic at Reading Bob's at some time in the near future. The 1st floor hole is shown in the photo above.
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-088)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140520091520-44241220.jpeg)
The kit comes with a metal casting for a hoist over the 2nd floor loading door at the end of the building. The casting was filed, primed, painted and super glued in place.
I added a spike at the side of the door to hold the hoist "rope". Need to find a better looking rope.....any suggestions would be appreciated?
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-090)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140520091520-442421033.jpeg)
Shades were added to all the windows and doors. I used the ole' Langford trick of painting paper napkins from one the areas better restaurants.....they use a better quality, thicker paper.
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-089)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140520091520-442431899.jpeg)
Exhibit #5 - (ADL-091)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140520091520-442442242.jpeg)
I'll get this kit weathered and declare it semi-complete next time.....
Rope - Why not brown thread? Half inch real world rope would scaled down to 0.07" or so. Once you have the shape or tautness, add some thin super glue to hold the shape.
It's looks great Greg.
Thanks Bob.....I'll give that a try. :)
Thanks Curt..... :)
Hi all.....
I've procrastinated for the last few weeks with this build and have decided to declare it "mostly finished". I was going to weather it, but kept changing my mind about the degree of the weathering. I have decided to do the weathering when a decision is made as to the kit's placement on the layout.
Lessons have been learned with the build and I'm looking forward to the next kit in the lineup. Below are the final photos of the building in a temporary spot on the layout.
Exhibit #1 - (ADL-094)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240620180849-446222167.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ADL-095)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240620180850-446231448.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ADL-097)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240620180850-44624959.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 - (ADL-098)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-240620180850-44625852.jpeg)
Kit wrap up and thoughts.....
First order of business is to thank Jeff for the kit and apologize for the quality of the build....my rusty skills did not do this fine kit justice.
It is an excellent kit for almost any layout. It is a great structure that can be adapted to any type of small business that would be necessary in any town set in the mid 1900's. It also has the advantage of not needing a siding so it is great for one of the many infill type buildings required in a small town setting.
The laser cut wood supplied was square and true and the plastic and metal castings were well done. All in all a very nice kit for the asking price.
It has been fun getting back to building structures after a rather lengthily absence and I thank all of you for looking in and coming along with me on this short journey back into the hobby.
See y'all on the next build.....a golden oldie from FSM.....Stay Tuned!
Nice build Greg.
Greg,
Mighty fine my friend, well done.
Tom ;D
Good looking structure, Greg.
Jeff
Nice job Greg.
Great job Greg. That should get your feet back under you. Now on to the next build! ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 24, 2020, 07:32:02 PM
Greg,
Mighty fine my friend, well done.
Tom ;D
Okay.....what are you up to.....you're being way to nice. :o
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 24, 2020, 08:25:14 PM
Good looking structure, Greg.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff.....appreciate the kind words and you looking in. :)
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 25, 2020, 07:01:51 AM
Great job Greg. That should get your feet back under you. Now on to the next build! ;D
Thanks Bob.....giving it the old college try. :) Stay tuned.....you might get a kick out of the next build. ;)