Everybody's been asking me to do it, so here it is. I've chosen the Jordan Model A pickup to be my 2nd Jordan build.
Some of my photos will be on the dark side because I'm still trying to figure out my new camera. I've done my best to lighten them up. First up is a photo of the contents of the box..
Alright!!!
This one will be a good one. They are addictive this little beasts. And at the prices they fetch on eBay it can be a pricey addiction lol
Jaime
I felt I needed to consult the master of Jordan builds Chester Fesmire before starting my build. Unfortunately Chester passed away a couple years ago but fortunately Brian Bollinger had done a video on vehicle builds with Chester being featured with some other fat-headed idiot. Although he didn't get in too deep into a complete build I did learn a few things. First a trip to the local hobby shop..
Awww, coffee in hand, sitting in my favorite chair, ready to watch the Master at work. I have this kit so very interested.
Jim D
Me too, except for the coffee.....always look forward and enjoy a "fat-headed idiot" build..... ;)
I purchased a tube of Testor's glue and Tamiya liquid cement. I haven't owned a tube of glue since the early 1980's but using it was like riding a bicycle into a spider web.. I forgot how stringy it was. The liquid was bought because all my other bottles were about 10 years old. The 2 big things that I was able to learn from watching Chester's video was to use just enough of the cement to hold the part straight and then apply the liquid to glue it in place. And #2, don't be in a rush. These builds take time to do them right and just do apiece at a time and let it dry.
There aren't to many tools needed to clean the parts. A new razor blade, a couple of pieces of fine and extra fine foamed backed sand paper and a narrow extra fine sanding stick..
The first part cut from the sprue and cleaned up. I accidently cut the front bumper supports off thinking they were part of the sprue but fixed them later in the build.
More to come.. Thanks for checking in..
Great build thread!! I have many Jordan wagons put away.
dave
Looking forward to this one, Ramyo.
I, too, have a decent collection of these vehicles to build for my layout.
Cheers, Mark.
Now this is going to be a fun build to watch. I'm following every step.
This'll be fun. :D
I have that DVD and plan on watching it before I take a stab at building a couple of Sylvan's I just acquired. ;)
Subscribed!
I love that video. The one guy talks funny, though. ;D
Jeff
I'm here, too. Can't follow too many Jordan builds for the valuable tips.
--Opa George
Dan,
Will watch the video while you work your magic on another Jordan...
Tommy
Hey Raymond:
Haven't built one of those in years. Good luck with your build.
Karl
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 01, 2021, 09:15:20 AM
Alright!!!
This one will be a good one. They are addictive this little beasts. And at the prices they fetch on eBay it can be a pricey addiction lol
Jaime
I've been able to find a few at the smaller shows around here without getting beat up two bad.
Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 01, 2021, 09:25:56 AM
Awww, coffee in hand, sitting in my favorite chair, ready to watch the Master at work. I have this kit so very interested.
Jim D
Hopefully, I can hold your interest.
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 01, 2021, 09:30:57 AM
Me too, except for the coffee.....always look forward and enjoy a "fat-headed idiot" build..... ;)
Me too.. ;D
Quote from: deemery on January 01, 2021, 09:50:08 AM
Great build thread!! I have many Jordan wagons put away.
dave
My first build was for one of Brian's 20 dollar kits last year.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 01, 2021, 09:56:04 AM
Looking forward to this one, Ramyo.
I, too, have a decent collection of these vehicles to build for my layout.
Cheers, Mark.
Hop on board Mark!
Quote from: S&S RR on January 01, 2021, 09:56:51 AM
Now this is going to be a fun build to watch. I'm following every step.
Hopefully it won't be a long process..
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 01, 2021, 10:09:11 AM
This'll be fun. :D
I have that DVD and plan on watching it before I take a stab at building a couple of Sylvan's I just acquired. ;)
My taxi build should help with that build. Any questions, feel free to ask Bob.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 01, 2021, 10:45:18 AM
I love that video. The one guy talks funny, though. ;D
Jeff
Ayuh Dr. Jeff. he does.. :D
Quote from: Opa George on January 01, 2021, 10:52:43 AM
I'm here, too. Can't follow too many Jordan builds for the valuable tips.
--Opa George
Hopefully you can learn at least one thing from my build George, then I've done my job.. :D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 01, 2021, 01:16:20 PM
Dan,
Will watch the video while you work your magic on another Jordan...
Tommy
Settle in Tom. :D
Quote from: postalkarl on January 01, 2021, 05:06:49 PM
Hey Raymond:
Haven't built one of those in years. Good luck with your build.
Karl
Thanks Karl!
Getting back at it, I cut the floor, seat bottom, hand brake and shifter off the sprue and cleaned them up. The pieces were glued to the floor to make up the 1st sub assembly.
4 on the floor?
Jaime
The cowl/windshield part was then removed and cleaned up. I also removed the dashboard, steering shaft and steering wheel were removed and cleaned up to remove flash. The hole in the dash was drilled out for the steering shaft before installation to the cowl. the steering wheel was also attached to each other. EDIT: If you plan on using the supplied clear styrene for the windshield, now is the time to cut it to fit the windshield after painting!
The steering shaft and wheel were attached to the dash. The pictures do get better at some point..
The cab sides and back wall were next to get cleaned up.
The cab assembled. Although I didn't photograph it, I also attached the seat back to the inside of the cab at this point.
The pickup bed and tailgate.
Once again, I apologize for the photos. Still a learning curve with a new camera. The roof and vizor were next to be cleaned up. The roof was attached 1st, then the vizor after the roof set up. EDIT: If using the clear styrene windshield I would leave the roof off till after painting to allow access to the interior.
The directions show the license plate and light attached to the bed support on the L/R. I decided to mount it to the rear fender.
The 5 pieces that make up the hood and grille before cleaning up the flash. Notice the louvers on the hood side, they should favor the back end of the engine compartment.
And 1 completed hood assembly
Then the cab and hood were glued together
Up next we'll work on the chassis.
Dan
This is coming along very nice. I'm enjoying the thread and the truck is looking great.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 03, 2021, 08:30:23 PM
Dan
This is coming along very nice. I'm enjoying the thread and the truck is looking great.
Thanks John.
To get back at it, I removed the rear spring, rear axle and exhaust system from the sprue.
The rear spring was installed into the grove of the rear cross member. The rear end was attached to that with the front of the wishbone/driveshaft attached to the rear of the transmission. The exhaust system was installed to the underside with the bend in the pipe under the wishbone.
The front axle and wishbone were then removed from the sprue and cleaned up. The front axle fits into the grove of the front crossmember and the point of the front wishbone should rest on the bellhousing.
A different view
Back to the cab, I attached the fuel cap to the cowl and the radiator cap to the top of the radiator.
Great work. I will be building my second Jordan soon.
Although I'm aware George didn't build all his Jordan's on the F&SM, it still makes me appreciate the work that went into the amount of them that can be found there!
I cut the very delicate headlight assembly from the sprue. I then attached the horn throat to it.
This was then attached to the front fenders. I drilled the dimples out on the fenders to allow the glue to attach better. I also repaired the front bumper mounts with some styrene strip and attached the front bumper.
I attached the "brake drums" to the back of the wheels. I left the wheels on the sprue to help with painting.
That's it for tonight. I need to download more photos..
Quote from: Rusty Robot on January 06, 2021, 07:38:52 PM
Great work. I will be building my second Jordan soon.
Although I'm aware George didn't build all his Jordan's on the F&SM, it still makes me appreciate the work that went into the amount of them that can be found there!
Yes! And there's a LOT of Jordan's on the F&SM..
Dan;
Really enjoying the build. Have a question, when you clean up the parts how much force are you applying? I know sounds stupid but I don't want to shave off too much and sometimes hard to tell were the flash ends and the part starts. OK, a second question, when I built a Jorden bus the thread I followed recommended super glue. Here you are using the plastic cement. Photos show it looks great and I see no glue but how does it feel to work with for you?
Thanks
Jim D
Hey Raymo:
It's coming along very nicely. Can't wait to see it finished.
Karl
Looking great, Dan.
Cheers, Mark.
Looking great Dan!
If you really want to be frustrated try using an old (ancient) bottle of liquid plastic cement to build one of these. I tried that. One time. That's when learned the hard way that the old stuff no longer dissolves the plastic properly to create a bond. ::)
Dan,
Great stuff. You make it look so simple and easy.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 06, 2021, 09:39:41 PM
Dan;
Really enjoying the build. Have a question, when you clean up the parts how much force are you applying? I know sounds stupid but I don't want to shave off too much and sometimes hard to tell were the flash ends and the part starts. OK, a second question, when I built a Jorden bus the thread I followed recommended super glue. Here you are using the plastic cement. Photos show it looks great and I see no glue but how does it feel to work with for you?
Thanks
Jim D
Thanks for stopping by Jim. I slowly let the razor blade glide along the parts to remove the flash. When you have most of it removed you can lightly scrape away the rest. The fine grit sand paper will remove what's left without destroying the detail. Like I said I said in the beginning, use the tube cement to hold the part to hold the piece in place, then use the liquid to secure it in place. The liquid cement will actually melt the plastic parts together. Capillary action will allow a small amount to work.
Quote from: postalkarl on January 07, 2021, 02:37:24 AM
Hey Raymo:
It's coming along very nicely. Can't wait to see it finished.
Karl
Thanks Karl!
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 07, 2021, 01:05:42 PM
Looking great, Dan.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for checking in Mark!
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 07, 2021, 02:10:58 PM
Looking great Dan!
If you really want to be frustrated try using an old (ancient) bottle of liquid plastic cement to build one of these. I tried that. One time. That's when learned the hard way that the old stuff no longer dissolves the plastic properly to create a bond. ::)
HaHa Bob.. That's why I bought a new bottle.. Plus the Tamiya brand has a nice small tip on the brush.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 07, 2021, 03:00:44 PM
Dan,
Great stuff. You make it look so simple and easy.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom! I must say I was intimated to tackle one, but as long as you don't rush the build it was actually FUN!
Great build thread Dan! It's really coming along nicely. I have a couple of these kits....not sure if I have the patience (or eyesight!!) to build one.
Quote from: MAP on January 09, 2021, 03:04:06 PM
Great build thread Dan! It's really coming along nicely. I have a couple of these kits....not sure if I have the patience (or eyesight!!) to build one.
Thanks Mark!
So getting back at it, I rounded up the parts and gave them a soaking in soapy water. They were then left to dry overnight. I didn't photograph any of it because I've covered it before and most of us have done it.
So back in the olden days as a Sophmore in my first week of autobody training at the local Voc/Tech school, They actually gave me some "Free" study aids that included a 3 ring binder with a bunch of technical bulletins supplied by the paint manufacturer Ditzler. In the binder was this booklet on refinishing Model A's. Inside is a couple pages of color chips and the years they were used.
I like the green on this chip. I chose TruColor NH #401 green and engine black for the main colors.
Wow! What great reference material to have on hand! Looking good. ;)
A friend gave me a box Testors Fine Light Gray Laquer primer. I applied a light coat to the vehicle.
After letting it dry for a couple days, I applied the color.
Firstly — that book is awesome! Secondly, the details on the front of that model is wonderful. And you've done an excellent job putting it together!
Can't wait to see your painting process.
I couldn't find anything in the reference book that said that the pickups had anything but black wheels, but I did find that anything could be custom ordered as far as trim colors. I decided to paint them with some Mo-Pac Yellow. I think I got it close.. :D
That's it for now, Time to detail paint.
Quote from: Rusty Robot on January 12, 2021, 08:09:49 PM
Firstly — that book is awesome! Secondly, the details on the front of that model is wonderful. And you've done an excellent job putting it together!
Can't wait to see your painting process.
Thanks Craig..
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 12, 2021, 07:52:42 PM
Wow! What great reference material to have on hand! Looking good. ;)
One of the few items I've saved from High School Bob. I don't even have the rest of the 3 ring binder. ;D
Quote from: Raymo on January 12, 2021, 08:07:09 PM
After letting it dry for a couple days, I applied the color.
Do you apply each color in separate subassemblies?
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 12, 2021, 10:37:11 PM
Quote from: Raymo on January 12, 2021, 08:07:09 PM
After letting it dry for a couple days, I applied the color.
Do you apply each color in separate subassemblies?
Jaime
Jaime, I painted the chassis with a clamp attached to the rear axle which I'll touch up. The cab and bed were painted attached to a loop of tape attached to an old EXPO advertising card. I'll post pictures of what I did..
Looks great, Raymo.
I agree - a great reference to have on hand.
Cheers, mark.
Dan,
Just perfect and the colors are just right for the truck. Looking good.
Tom ;D
Hi all,
I've found the 1928-1936 Ford Repaint Manual online (in case your 3-ring binder is missing!) at the following URL:
https://myflatheadford.com/1928-1936-antique-ford-repaint-manual/
Thanks,
Dale
Nice work Dan. You can't beat the detail that is in a Jordan!
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 13, 2021, 01:39:43 PM
Looks great, Raymo.
I agree - a great reference to have on hand.
Cheers, mark.
Thanks Mark!
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 13, 2021, 06:34:28 PM
Dan,
Just perfect and the colors are just right for the truck. Looking good.
Tom ;D
Thanks again Tom!
Quote from: MorrowDaleR on January 18, 2021, 03:34:27 PM
Hi all,
I've found the 1928-1936 Ford Repaint Manual online (in case your 3-ring binder is missing!) at the following URL:
https://myflatheadford.com/1928-1936-antique-ford-repaint-manual/ (https://myflatheadford.com/1928-1936-antique-ford-repaint-manual/)
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks for the link Dale. I'm sure I threw out the binder because the info was dated by 1980's standards.
Quote from: Rail and Tie on January 18, 2021, 05:36:40 PM
Nice work Dan. You can't beat the detail that is in a Jordan!
No you can't Darryl. It's amazing what they were able to recreate in HO scale.
To get back to Jaime's question, I have these clamps that I use to paint frames and sub assemblies that I picked up from a tool vendor at a show. I held the chassis by the driveshaft to paint it. I felt it would be easier to touch up at that point.
To start with the detail painting, I painted the bumper and the headlight bezels with Brite Silver. I also painted the tail light lens.
I painted the rubber part of the tires with some Grimy Black. I also painted the hub caps with the silver. I also painted the radiator and fuel cap at the same time
I chose maroon craft paint for a license plate color and dry brushed white over the numbers. I also painted the tail light Tamiya Red Clear
Amazing detail, my friend. I'm really enjoying this thread.
Time to detail out the cab interior. I painted the seat cushions Vallejo German Camo Med. Brown. I also was able to paint the steering wheel black and painted the gauge cluster silver on the dash.
The lower seat was painted as well
I attached the headlight lens to the buckets with some gallery glass.
I also attached the front wheels
Then the rear wheels
While that set up, I installed the floor to the cab
Next up, final assembly and weathering..
Quote from: S&S RR on January 23, 2021, 08:13:39 PM
Amazing detail, my friend. I'm really enjoying this thread.
Thanks John!
Dan,
First, I had never thought of using tube cement to hold the parts while applying the liquid. I will definitely be trying that. I like the way you build in subassemblies that allow for things like interior painting after (partial) assembly. I'm not sure how this will translate to assembling a Mack or Packard truck but it should work great when I build a Model T truck.
As usual, flawless work. Anyone that has attempted a Jordan understands just how tiny the parts are and the precision required to have an exact fit and paint separation that stands up to enlarged photos. Thanks for the great step by step. You have once again raised the bar.
Wow.
Wow is right! I'm sure Chester if following along, smiling and giving you two big thumbs up on this one Dan. ;)
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 24, 2021, 08:35:25 AM
Dan,
First, I had never thought of using tube cement to hold the parts while applying the liquid. I will definitely be trying that. I like the way you build in subassemblies that allow for things like interior painting after (partial) assembly. I'm not sure how this will translate to assembling a Mack or Packard truck but it should work great when I build a Model T truck.
As usual, flawless work. Anyone that has attempted a Jordan understands just how tiny the parts are and the precision required to have an exact fit and paint separation that stands up to enlarged photos. Thanks for the great step by step. You have once again raised the bar.
Jerry, thanks for the nice words on my build. I'm pretty sure sub assembly building will work for any kit. Thanks again!
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 24, 2021, 10:21:51 AM
Wow is right! I'm sure Chester if following along, smiling and giving you two big thumbs up on this one Dan. ;)
I can only hope he is Bob..
So I haven't posted anything for almost 2 months on this thread but it is done. I have an awful case of spinal stenosis along with arthritis in my back that just wipes me out. Last thing I want to do is sit in front of this black box, which might be a good thing! ;D As Larry the Cable guy says " Lets get ER' done..
So the next item to be added is the spare tire to the front fender. I had to flatten out the part of the tire that sits in the fender to give it the right look. Just a dab of 5 minute epoxy holds it in place
The cab assembly was then attached to the chassis with more epoxy.
I just wanted to show that I added the blue oval to the top of the radiator shell
I added the bed to the chassis with more epoxy. I tried my best to keep it from oozing out from the bed supports
Although you can't see it (hopefully), I used Gallery Glass instead of the supplied clear acetate to add glass to the windows.
So I'm calling this one done. Like Jaime, it's been awhile since I finished a build challenge, so I'm happy to do that. I'm also happy to get a Jordan build thread under my belt. Once again, I'm sorry about the quality of the photos, I just could never get the settings right. I think I've figured it out now. So I gave the truck some light weathering with powders and took some final photos. On to the next one..
Dan, I got 100's of these little kit's with other's this will help me so much. Thank you....
The license plate is the icing on the cake. Nice build, Dan.
Jeff
Wow , another great build.
Hey Raymond:
Beautiful job on that Jordan.
Karl
Good looking truck Dan.....great job. 8)