Hey Gang,
My next project is the Sierra West Scale Models - Work Train in HO Scale. I believe there are 11 cars that make up this kit. For those of you that plan to build it in the future, it does NOT come with Couplers and Trucks. Those extra items are going to cost you about $100...that is on top of the price I paid for this kit which was about $250. This kit is no longer made by Brett at Sierra West.
Lets get into the Build. The first car is the Water Car. You begin by weathering and staining the wood. Its funny, here I am going to town on the wood with this little brass brush to create lines in the wood. After 20 minutes and my arm being sore, I thought man...all that work and I don't even really see a difference. The next step is to "paint" the wood with Grim Paint by dipping it into the paint and then directly into 91% alcohol before applying it to the boards. As I'm applying this watered down solution, I cant even tell if its sticking...and it looks like the exact same color as my wood. The last step is to apply a light Indian ink wash. After doing all this and waiting about 10 minutes for everything to dry I came back downstairs and it was like magic...the boards looked awesome. The grain showed up from all that scrubbing with the brass brush and the Grim Paint I applied showed up to give a fantastic peeling effect. See picture 3 for a close up of the boards.
The next step is the tank. After painting the tank with a Rust/Brown mix paint and letting it dry, the fun part comes...weathering. After putting the decals on, you spray the tank with dullcoat. This gives the surface a "tacky" texture. You then start by applying various shades of chalk...starting with the blacks and working up thru the browns, yellows and finally the reds and oranges. The end result is a fantastic looking rusty, weathered looking tank. See picture 4 and 5 for a close up. There is still a bunch of stuff left to finish up the car but this is as far as I got...
Alan
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Looking awesome, Alan!
I've got this one tucked away for an upcoming build. Looking forward to watching your work-train develop.
Cheers, Mark.
Very well done Mark.....great kit, I missed getting it when I was taking a break from the hobby a few years ago. :(
Alan
It looks great - I too, have this one on the shelf waiting for a time slot for the build. I will be watching with great interest.
Looking awesome so far Alan, I'll be fallowing along on this one. Should be another one of those NEXTCEO's great builds.
Sam
Looking great so far.
Jeff
Alan,
Ditto to all the other comments. Well done.
Tom ;D
Hey Gang,
Thanks for all the kind comments. With that said, part of the reason I'm posting this build is for educational purposes to help those that choose to build this kit after me but the other part is for criticism. As some examples, if you guys think I over weathered a decal or I need to redo a grab iron, please let me know.
Before I move on, I want to address a few of your questions.
Q: How big are these cars in HO Scale Feet?
A: The frames on the small cars are 7 ft by 10 ft and the frames on the larger cars are 7 ft by 21ft. If you consider a slight over hang from the wood platforms, add another foot to each of those measurements.
Q: What type of chalk are you using to weather the cars?
A: Rembrandt chalk from Dick Blick. They always run sales on them and you can usually pick them up for about $3.00 a stick. I like variation in colors so I have a bunch...see the 1st picture. I use a razor blade to scrap off the chalk onto a powder on a sheet of wax paper. I then dip my brush into 91% alcohol and then into the piles of powders.
I didn't like how the handle on top of the water car looked...I thought it was too rounded so I pulled it off and created a flatter one. The next part of this build doesn't show much progress but I wanted to go thru it with you because I did things differently than Brett suggested. Anytime that happens, I'll document it.
1 - I bought a tap and die set from Hobby Lobby to drill the holes for the 2-56 screw used to hold the trucks (wheels for the train car) in place. I bought the screws at Ace Hardware. The instruction don't say what size...but you want 2-56 - 1/4 long. For whatever reason, the trucks dont come with the screws. With that said, I had read another build thread that suggested drilling the hole(s) for the trucks ahead of time before you start building the car. I'm glad I did...it took some force to drill those holes. I tested the hole by putting on the truck and screwing in the screw. Everything looked good so I removed it. Brett doesn't call for this step until later. I wouldn't wait...otherwise you might break off some parts from your car as you struggle to drill those holes.
2- The instructions call for 5 min epoxy to attach the tank to the wood deck. Instead I used Weldbond Glue with a little super glue towards the middle of the tank. The only reason I did this is I'm very comfortable with Weldbond glue and it always has worked for me...plus it drys clear.
3 - Next step was to add the straps over the car. The instructions call for drilling little tiny holes using a 77-drill bit thru the wood deck and the frame. If you've used a size 77 drill bit before, you know they bend very easily. After spending 10 minutes and bending two drill bits, I decided to just drill the holes into the wood. I then used super glue at the base on each side of the tank to hold the bands in place. This process seemed to work fine. Before putting the bands on, I did soak them in Blacken-it but they still appeared shiny in certain areas. I used black paint with a fine brush to cover up those areas. I then immediately took the rest of my black wire and dropped it back into a Blacken-it solution.
That's all for now...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FWT6_zps13800cb0.jpg&hash=2cf8ad8bdaedeb99bb25d91167d9dd512a2b8a78) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/WT6_zps13800cb0.jpg.html)
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Now there is a man with some Rembrandts! Great fading of the lettering. Still legible enough! Some good tips- I hope to get one of these HO work trains as I love the cars. I have the On3-30 kit so maybe I can trade it for the HO version. Another fun thread to follow Allan, and am looking forward to seeing you at the Expo. Glad to see that you signed up for the forum 'Meet and Greet'.
This is simply awesome! :D Thanks for sharing. I'll be following along.
Thanks Bob. Yeah Mike, look forward to seeing you at the Expo and talking to you about your Sierra West Builds...
Alright. One car down and 10 to go. Hope all of them are as fun as this one.
Here is what I did different from the instructions.
1 - The hose at the front of the water car - the instructions call for bending a wire. Not sure how that would have happened. I used Solder instead. Painted it a Grimy Black and added some weather chalk.
2 - The Stirrup - Called for me to use a 77 size drill bit to drill into the frame. Wasn't even going to try doing that after my last experience. Instead just used superglue for both the Stirrup at the front of the car along with the grab iron.
A couple of side notes...Used white chalk on the pipe coming out the side of the tank (with the 2 red shut off valves on it) to represent calcium buildup since that pipe probably has water sitting in it most of the time. Used gray chalks on the hoses to represent worn rubber. Everything else I followed the instructions to the "T".
Here is the finished product. Next up the Sand Car.
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FWaterCar1_zps8b7b30cc.jpg&hash=450173f64a486b74146cf57d7d7b59d6ffc36b18) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/WaterCar1_zps8b7b30cc.jpg.html)
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Alan, I love the texture that you were able to get. If the rest of the cars turn out this good that's going to be one fine work train.
Thanks Dustin!
Alan
Hey Gang,
After reading everyone's feed back from a couple of the forums I've posted this build on, I decided to make a couple of changes to the Water Car:
I first went back and replaced the Hose on the back of the water car. It was originally made out of wire. A few folks thought it looked "too perfect" so I replaced it with Solder to make it look more realistic - this material allowed for more "bend". Some others had commented that the weathering didn't look quite right on the one side of the car. I went back and fixed that and also changed the decal on the side of the car to read just "20". This now matches up with how Brett shows the car in the instructions. To add some additional interest to the water car, I added a wrench to the wood deck directly below the shut off values since that tool would have probably been required at times to loosen and tighten the water hose coupler. To the other side of the car, I added an oil can which would have been used to run the pump located on the front of the car. Both the Wrench and Oil Can do NOT come with this kit.
To see these improvements, I have updated the pictures on my previous post. I appreciate the constructive criticism I received on the water car as I feel it has made the finished model look more realistic.
I also started the Sand Car. So far I painted the Frame and Sand Box, drilled and threaded the hole for the truck, added the decals and applied a solvent solution to the decals to help them better adhere to the car.
Next up is the building of the Wood Deck and the weathering of the Sand Box.
Thanks for following along...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FSC1_zps1464bf69.jpg&hash=166b5400b1fa5b1c69223a661f64835c10746d8e) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/SC1_zps1464bf69.jpg.html)
Since my last update I weathered the sand box. This was and still is quite difficult since the wood sides and the brown rust on the metal all seem to blend together. One thing that the instructions does not call for but something I decided to do was dry brush all the metal pieces on the Sand Box with Old Silver to make the metal "pop". Since most of the metal is part of the Sand Box mold, you're going to need to use a Flat Brush (aka Brush #3) instead of the typical Dry Brush (aka Brush #4) otherwise you'll have silver all over the place. I attached a few pictures of the brushes and the paint I'm referring to in my description. I also installed the Sand Shovel and Bucket to the front of the car. Both of these pieces do come with the kit. I'm still going to have to play around with the powders to get this car to the color I want it. Here is a picture of where I stand currently.
That's all for now...
Alan
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Just finished up with the Sand Car. Not much variation from the instructions. The only thing I did differently was to dry brush the metal on the sand car with old silver and I glued the railings directly onto the car...without drilling any holes.
Next up is the Oil Car...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FSandCar1_zps30619ee6.jpg&hash=e8dc5dfad8f912cf2ae8c2dfe470ec13472d5955) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/SandCar1_zps30619ee6.jpg.html)
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Very nice.
Jaime
Hey Gang,
To follow up on some of the emails I received from folks, they had asked for side pictures of the cars. Therefore, I went back and updated my previous posts and going forward, I will also show a side shot of each car. The reason for all the photos is that Brett only has 2 color photos on his website of each car and the instructions are only in black and white. In addition, most of the photos in the instructions are close up shots showing only portions of the cars. Hopefully this thread will serve as a picture guide to those that chose to build this Work Train in the future.
With that said, I knocked out the Oil Car today. I followed the instructions to the "T" except I drilled the holes for the trucks in the very beginning and I glued (without drilling holes) all the grab irons and stirrups. Half way thru the build, Brett has you create oily rags by painting some Kleenex with Oily Black. They looked really neat and were fun to put all around the car. The build is pretty straight forward with excellent instructions until the last step. After you have built the car without any oil weathering, the instructions tell you to drop Oil Black Paint on top / middle of the car and then use Alcohol to dilute it by letting the paint and Alcohol run down the side. After that I think you are suppose to use that same technique all over the car. Once you've finished doing this, you're going to find the car (especially the wood deck) to be really black. To lighten those boards up, I used different shades of gray chalk. I also at the very end used some fine dirt (got it from Scenic Express) and wiped it all over the car to give it that dusty look and dilute some of the blackness created by all the Oil Black Paint.
Here is how it turned out...as a note, the car is actually blacker in real life than in the pictures. I had to over expose the pictures so you could see the fine details.
Thanks for looking and any comments or criticism would be appreciated. I promise you wont hurt my feelings...
Next up is the Pipe and Scrap Car.
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FOilCar1_zpsd8b53199.jpg&hash=d5b5730d749fa8fc7165eb8d1509324b081d0c53) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/OilCar1_zpsd8b53199.jpg.html)
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I'm regretting not getting this kit when I could. These are really cool.
Marty
Thanks Marty. I think if you check with Brett, he might be able to get you a kit. That's just a rumor at this point...had a few people tell me this. They said he re-did the castings for the work train.
Alan
Alan,
Outstanding build! I especially like the weathering on the tank, to me, it is amazingly realistic. The coloring of the wood portions of both cars is beautiful, too.
I noted that you had some issues trying to drill #77 holes. I have found that sometimes brand new drill bits were not sharpened properly when manufactured. If I find a drill that does not seem to be making a hole easily, I check the point under my optivisor loop. Sometimes I can dres the point with an Arkansas stone, but usually, I simply get out another new bit. I have also found that using a little beeswax as a lubricant helps when drilling metal.
Hey Jerry,
Thanks for the compliment. I also appreciate the tip on the drill bit. Yeah, I went thru 3 of them trying to get thru the metal frames with no luck. They do work well into the resin castings but I found I like having the flexibility to be able to move the grip handles around after I've glued them in place as sometimes I don't like where I initially placed them.
Thanks again!
Alan
Hey Gang,
I knocked out the Pipe and Scrap Car over the past few days. I followed the instructions except for the following modifications:
1 - The Scrap Box at the front of the car - I added a tire, a box and a tank on top of the junk to help give it a more 3D appearance.
2 - The crane on the front of the car. The post on the crane I received in my kit was quite short. It did not match the picture in the instructions. At its current height, it didn't seem like the crane could reach the other side of the scrap box. The instructions shows a larger portion to the post at the bottom that mine did not have on it. I then pulled up a build thread (Mike Chambers) on this kit and noticed that those posts were also short. To correct this situation and make it look more realistic, I cut a little piece of wood off of a dowel rod to the height I wanted and weathered it. I then installed the crane on top of the dowel rod. Once that was complete I added some black gloss paint to some super glue and applied it around the joint to represent old grease.
3 - To add some interest to the back side of the car I added a rope and chain that hangs off the back of the parts shelf.
Next up is the tool and repair car.
Thanks for looking!
Alan
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Alan, its gor everything in it. Is the scrap box one casting or many?
Marty
Beautiful work and photography, Alan.
Thanks also for the extra information on the changes you are making as you go along. Most useful.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark.
To answer your question Marty, the scrap box at the front of the car is one whole casting.
Alan
Alan- great work on all these cars. Weathering is fabulous.
Thanks Mike!
Alan
Hey Alan,
tremendous work on those cars. The weathering looks perfect. Every detail looks to be where it should be. I can't think of anyone who could have done a better job. " FANTASTIC JOB"
Sam
Each new car you post is better than the one before it. Great work.
Jeff
That scrap car looks fabulous. Like others have said each car gets better and better.
Thanks for the comments Sam, Dustin and Jeff.
Hey Sam, you should post some updates of your diorama showing the installation of your water...
Alan
Hey Gang,
Just finished up the repair car. The issue I ran into is my kit didn't come with the dry transfers required for this car. When I contacted Brett, he no longer has any decals for this kit. Therefore, I clipped out a few of the numbers on the Wet Decal sheet for the back of the car. After applying the number 19 to the three boards, I used a new razor blade to cut out the space between each board. It turned out fine...I just wish I had the dry decals as there were also suppose to be words on the back of the car. The only modification I made is the front railing with the 2 rags on it. The instructions called for it to be higher. For aesthetic purposes, I made it shorter (not as high). One tip, try to push the work bench up as far as possible to the front of the car. I left a half a board space from the front and wish I hadn't. If you look at the back of the car, there is a hand rail. On my car, the person climbing on only has one board to step on...if I would have pushed the bench up farther, the person boarding would have had more space...making it look more realistic.
Next up are the Flat Cars...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRepairCar1_zps5d613a2d.jpg&hash=628279c12ddaf7d0c76e587ea90bf5f10ea431e3) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/RepairCar1_zps5d613a2d.jpg.html)
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Great job Alan. The cars would be terrific with or without numbers and lettering.
Alan
The cars are turning out great.
Thanks Mike and John for the kind words.
Alan
Just finished up the 2 flat cars for the work train. The modifications I made:
- Added a board and a crow bar to the small flat car
- Added 2 chains to tie down the sled, a chain to the box that's sitting on the deck, a board to the back of the car as well as a grease pot to the large flat car.
I used Old Silver to highlight some of the metal seen on the sled to make it "pop". I only included a few pictures of the small flat car as its not very interesting...
Next Up...the 2 slab cars.
Thanks for looking!
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FLargeFlat1_zpsa2a0ea36.jpg&hash=1282830592070b19cae8ac7e25c2ad21c1f305bf) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/LargeFlat1_zpsa2a0ea36.jpg.html)
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Alan, the rope really adds to the overall look of the car. It really makes it stand out. Keep up the good work.
Alan, these look fantastic. Have you tried to run them?
Marty
Alan,
They all look fantastic. Great job on the work train.
Tom ;D
Dustin - Thanks for the comments on the rope. If you have any other suggestions on how to setup the rope to make it look better, I would like to hear your thoughts.
Marty - Thanks..I have not tried to run them. I was going to try this afternoon. I've heard they are more for looks than performance. I'll let you know.
Tom - Thanks for the nice comments.
Alan
Finished up with the Slab Cars. The only things I did differently are as follows:
- Instructions call for the cut ends of the wood on the castings to be colored with Buff Depot and Grime. I found this color to be too gray and not enough yellow...and didn't match my cut wood I made myself from sticks. Instead I mixed White with a little Yellow and a little Buff Depot. I guess you tell me from the pictures if it looks like a close match.
- After I cut up some sticks for the large pieces of wood you see on the deck of the large slab car, I cut little tiny pieces of wood and glued them among the wood castings on both Slab Cars to help blend in the colored castings and the real wood.
- I added an Axe to the deck of the Slab Car.
That is it...next up the Gravel Car.
Alan
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Just Finished the Gravel Car. Not much to this car. The only thing I did differently is I added a Barrel and Crow Bar to one end of the car and a pile of sacks to the other to add some additional interest. The load in the gravel car came from Arizona Rock and Mineral Company...
That is all...next up is the Caboose.
Alan
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Just finished up with the Caboose. Followed the instructions except for the following modifications:
- Make sure you add the side railings after you install the roof. I followed the instructions and added them before. During the installation process of adding the roof, you use rubber bands to hold the roof in place...yep those rubber bands ripped off the side railings.
- The vent casting that comes with the kit is really long. I cut off a 1/4 inch to make it a little shorter for aesthetic purposes.
- I added a chain and a gas can to the porch of the Caboose to add interest.
That is all...next up is the Blacksmith Car...
Alan
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Hey Gang,
Just finished up with the Blacksmith Car...and yes, it is the neatest / funnest (if that's even a word) car of the kit with a bunch of details.
In addition to following the instructions, I made these modifications/additions:
- The biggest addition was the shelf on the back of the car. This is not in the instructions but after seeing a picture of the O Scale version of this car with that shelf, I decided to add it along with everything you see on that shelf - Jack, Hanging Chain, Wood Toolbox, and the Tool Rack with Hammer.
- The round saw blade on the side of the car was just suppose to be weathered with chalks and a brush...I took the lead from others who have done work on the infamous Twin Mills kit where they used a Dremel to get an extremely neat used look. I used a 1/16 drill bit, wrapped a small piece of masking tape on the bottom of the drill bit, slid the round saw blade on to the drill bit and then wrapped another small piece of masking tape on the tip of the drill bit to prevent it from flying off. You then turn on the Dremel and touch your brush which is loaded up with various colored chalks to the spinning saw blade. I think I spend 20 mins playing around with it until I got the look I wanted..and I could have probably spent all night doing it...its honestly quite fun.
- The kit comes with a solid styrene tube foe the Stove pipe. I replaced it with a .65 Steel tube from ngineering.com.
- I added 2 propane tanks
- I added 1 extra hose to the floor on the front of the car. Solder painted Grimy Black.
- I added 1 stump with axe and chopped wood to the floor for the stove.
- I added 1 extra barrel to the front of the car (Red/white one in the pictures)
- I added 3 rags. A black and red one at the front of the car and a red one on the workbench at the back of the car. The rags were made the same way as the rags for the tool and oil car. Painted Kleenex.
- A rope hanging on the inside of the car. I just used tan thread and roughed it up a little with my distressing tool.
- Per numerous requests on my couplers, I decided to clip off the tails to make them look more realistic...so much for using the Magnetic Couple feature for my layout...but I think after seeing the end result it was worth it.
- On alot of my cars...including this one, I use a Distressed Weathering brush on the wood after it has been installed and stained using Chalks and Alcohol to help give the wood that neat faded look. You can kinda see what I'm referring to on the roof and side walls of the Blacksmith Car. I got the tool thru Micromark...its kind of expensive for what it is ($15) but it allows me to get into small areas without disturbing the look of the rest of the car. (See the first picture)
http://www.micromark.com/distresser-weathering-brush,8057.html
10 Cars down...1 to go! Next up is the Box Car.
Thanks for looking!
Alan
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(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith2_zps96e6528b.jpg&hash=0bd33faf40bb32dd8423d0642c004b3029cb8dde) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith2_zps96e6528b.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith3_zps5df235d3.jpg&hash=fee517946ead0b3a409fe1e8d039d5b9ba27402c) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith3_zps5df235d3.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith4_zpsd8f87572.jpg&hash=d906904e6630f22e5cc9613d0779d7432d94bf5d) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith4_zpsd8f87572.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith5_zps5c49d75d.jpg&hash=4c50c0f51eab6b8e7b37a970138de784fa1a24c4) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith5_zps5c49d75d.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith6_zps4743c579.jpg&hash=57084843aa89a6795463c7bdbb190d3799f1774a) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith6_zps4743c579.jpg.html)
Fantastic Alan. I am glad that you shared all these with us. I hope that this train is making its way to the Expo. I'm sure there are few that would like to see these in person.
Thanks for the nice comments Dustin...I'm 50/50 on trying to transport this bad boy. I'm just afraid it may get broken as it has a lot of delicate pieces on it.
Alan
A fantasic series of builds!
You be da' man on this great detail!! ;D ;D ;D
Ha! Thanks David!
Alan
And last but least...the Box Car. This car is pretty straight forward. The only thing I did a little different is I used a razor blade to "scuff" the edges of the tar paper on the roof to give them a tattered look. In addition, I've attached a copy of some "Family Photos" of the entire work train.
Thanks for following along and for everyone's comments...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBoxCar1_zps6fae9381.jpg&hash=2d4423179c6d377282683b374bbc1dde8317a659) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/BoxCar1_zps6fae9381.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBoxCar2_zps0a3a63bc.jpg&hash=941fe11b7302ce607f7ca096dcd2312b779b89cc) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/BoxCar2_zps0a3a63bc.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBoxCar3_zpsaaf57727.jpg&hash=13b8739e766124a397922c7f8c5975af6593d2d7) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/BoxCar3_zpsaaf57727.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTrain1_zpsd334dd03.jpg&hash=596db76e7b3b4374e203c0ea3595772304ab6242) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Train1_zpsd334dd03.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTrain2_zps81f458df.jpg&hash=cebb8e467b03e741515ca86903861852359272e9) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Train2_zps81f458df.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTrain4_zps26173cf1.jpg&hash=33e0a8d3fd12bd9f8ff05dc7ee0fc0f0c16cef7a) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Train4_zps26173cf1.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTrain3_zps8fe606df.jpg&hash=9ff09f9485fa901f93d067eeaffeb85e7b0bfc75) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Train3_zps8fe606df.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTrain5_zpsb9be13ca.jpg&hash=391dc2b4237fbe69d6bf231ec4ab664eea98b010) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Train5_zpsb9be13ca.jpg.html)
Quote from: nextceo on February 19, 2015, 10:55:11 PM
Thanks for the nice comments Dustin...I'm 50/50 on trying to transport this bad boy. I'm just afraid it may get broken as it has a lot of delicate pieces on it.
Alan
Some great work, Alan. But c'mon, ya gotta bring them. It sure would be my favorite train or 1st through 11th places in Rolling Stock and I haven't even seen the other ones. A piece of bubble wrap loosely around each one snuggled together in a box, and maybe a little ACC and some Formula 560 Canopy Glue and you are good to go. I mean why did you build them if not to show them off at the Expo? They fix easy!
Very cool
Thanx
Bob
I agree with Mike. Box those beauties up and show them to the masses.
Amen!
Bob, Dustin and Martin...thanks for the Comments.
Mike - Ha! Thanks for the compliments..Yes, I should probably bring them. I'm just afraid I'll get one of those TSA guys at the Airport who will want to confiscate them on me at the airport because they contain Axes which I think aren't allowed on airplanes. Are you bringing any builds to the show??
Thanks again!
Alan
To follow up on one correction, Brett from SierraWest Scale Models had suggested the deck on my Blacksmith Car looked to "Pristine". Therefore, I went back and added some more dirt and some oil spots. Here is the before and after shots.
Thanks for the feedback Brett!
Alan
Before:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBlacksmith1_zps055b9b04.jpg&hash=fecd408e41772d4857cef99baa58cdc2fce669a1) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Blacksmith1_zps055b9b04.jpg.html)
After:
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRedo1a_zps0029078e.jpg&hash=7a857c18c06ec1738276d4b97850043428a32b65) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Redo1a_zps0029078e.jpg.html)
Alan,
It is still a wonderful build. Thanks for sharing.
Tom ;D