The Modeler's Forum

Dustin Hedrick and I have been talking about doing a build-thread on Brett's new Deer Creek Mine kit that is now shipping. This will be a non-traditional approach to a build-thread, and there may be more progress reporting than step-by-step instruction. That is being done by my good friend Bill Obenauf (aka Bill Michaels) on the RRLine forum and the SWSM Forum. If you haven't seen the start of his build thread, check it out.


Some years ago I did a thread with the late Elliott Moore called "Dueling Builds- SWSM Twin Mills of Deer Creek" on RRLine that was a lot of fun and had over 100,000 views (most of which were by Elliott and I according to my wife). So Dustin and I will attempt to reprise that kind of fun and hope that we can entertain and educate you a little bit.


Dustin has already received his kit and in a little will be posting a video of the opening of the kit and surveying the contents. I won't get to see mine until I return from California. My kit arrived Tuesday and is being guarded by my neighbor until I return. So let's have at it!


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Hi Mike.....mine came in last week and I'm trying real hard not to start building it.
 
I look forward to following along with your build.  8)

I will follow for sure. I think  it will  instructive and interesting as the duelling challenge with the deer creek sawmill.

Eric QUébec city

Hey Everyone. This sure should be a good time!!! Some of the biggest reason that I got into modeling is because of guys like Mike Engler and Elliott Moore. I wanted to pay tribute to these excellent builders. What better to use as a tribute than one of Brett's kits. So I contacted Mike about this and he jumped right on board. I hope that we can provide some entertainment along the way. With that being said, I shot a video of the unboxing of the Deer Creek Mine and wanted to share with everyone what really comes in one of Brett's kits. This is the first video like this I have ever done. I hope that you enjoy it.


http://youtu.be/MVWcsNLNz4g

Loved the video, especially not having experienced a SWSM kit before. Hope you do more!

Will definitely be watching!!

Alan

Me too.  Looks like a fantastic kit!

Cheers, Mark.

I was very tempted by this, I just had no place to put it on the layout (and too many other kits-in-boxes...)


dave

Good Luck,We're all counting on you!(https://modelersforum.com/1-789-3.jpg)

I have to admit that I have been tied up working on a few other projects. As soon as the EXPO is past the build will be in full swing. I have started the kit though. I think the curmudgeon has broke the seal on his also. I promise some pics very soon.

Let's get on with a little update. Since returning home from the Expo Iv'e been itching to start modeling. I had a few free nights and this update will get to the point that I am at.
The first thing is to separate all of Brett's great castings. I drilled holes in the bottom of the small ones and spread out the other ones on popsicle sticks.

There are a few other things that you get out of the way early. You primer the ore chute and dull coat the window and door frames. This helps these have some bite to get the chalks to stick to it.

You start with building the bents for the mine. There are 17 1x8 that you have to grain and stain. I really like Brett's chalk method of staining. It give great variation from one piece to another. Here are a few of the tools I use to weather the wood.

Here are a few pic of the staining process. Once I got the hang of it, it went very quickly. I started light and went back and added more where it was needed.

Templates are included for everything. Brett even included some excellent laser cut acrylic for templates.

I cut all the pieces for the bents before I started on them. The bent's go together almost like Lincoln logs.

I am not the fastest at times, so I have only finished two bents as of now. I hope to get the others done soon. I'm sure Mike will jump in soon with his progress.

Dustin,
   This is looking like another great build, and your off to a good start.  I'll be watching this one for sure.
   Sam

Thanks Sam. I am working on the two outside bents right now.

The Curmudgeon is still recoverin' from the Expo Meet and Great!!

Now that is funny!

Dustin,

I'm enjoying this build and looking foward to the end product. Great work Punkie, er, I mean Dustin.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom. I have a little more finished and will post an update soon.

The Curmudgeon is just a little PESSed off- he is suffering from a little "Post Expo Stress Syndrome", but he will be back at the kitchen counter modeling today and will have an update tomorrow.

Mike try putting ice in a small glass and pouring 3 fingers worth of your favorite spirit of choice.. Works for me. :D

I've been moving right along with my build. Everything really goes together great with the excellent instructions Brett provides. Next up was cutting 23 spacers. They are important to keep square as they hold all the bents together. There is a great jig that is in the kit to test fit each one. I actually checked mine a few times.

I laid out the templates and test fit everything before any glue was applied. I used double sided tape to hold it all down.

While everything was laid out I saw an issue with one of the bent legs. "A" had a support brace that was to short. Bill posted that on his build tread so I made sure to check mine.

Once everything looked ok it was time to glue the bents together. It all lines up great with the templates underneath.

At this point you have to work the ore chute into the bents. I know it want be seen but I wanted to really add some texture and weathering to mine. This is several layers and washes to build up to a texture I was happy with. Rust can be an art to itself.

Here it is all nestled into place. Still more bents and spacers to be added.

Great job with the chute Dustin.....if you're going to be the "King of Rust", I may have to send mine up for you to rust up a bit!  ;D


For right now, I've got the manual open and am following along.

From the look of the pictures, I'm guessin' that The Curmudgeon is still sittin' and
pickin' his nose!!!   :o :o :o

Dustin.... great start to a very nice kit. In the video you shared with us, you mentioned youtube. Do you have a youtube channel that shows your model railroading? I would love to check it out....... Keep the updates coming.....


Brad

Beautiful piece of work.  Very nice kit with a lot of thought in the production.  This kit is where my tax return is going.  That is if Uncle Sam will ever turns loose of my money.

Thanks Brad. I don't have a layout yet. Just building kits to put on one some day. The only video on my channel is the mine one.

I appreciate you looking in Bob. It's a great kit. The acrylic templates in the kit make everything fit perfect. Plus Brett's instruction are first class. Your money will be well spent.

  Looking real good Dustin,  seeing what your doing with that kit, I wish I had gotten one at the Expo, but I blew my budget early.  I bought 5,  kits and still haven't started any of them yet.
  Again Great job.
    Sam

Thanks Sam. I appreciate the complement. It is turning out to be a fun kit.

Update Time!


Next I had to finish off adding all the spacers to the bents. I made sure to recheck each one as I went.

I really like this shot looking down the bents. Its not prefect by any means but it really shows how the alignment should be.

After the first rows of spacers are in you have to add 8 more in. These are a little tricky because of where they are. I tried as hard as I could to make sure the alignment was good. These definitely work on your nerves. Mostly because you can't lay the bents down on the template to help. I also didn't want to smear glue all over the other bents.

Once all the spacers were in it was time to add the legs to the bents. If everything was done correctly before these line right up. I used the included strip wood guides to help make sure they stood up straight.

After the legs are all on you can stand it up. Man, this thing is so cool looking! I love how intricate all the legs look together. This is as far as I have gotten so far. I have to stain some more wood to add the cross members to the bents. Hope to get some time this weekend. Enjoy

Hey Dustin, really nice meeting you at the Expo.


I'm enjoying following along with the build.  The bents for the base are looking great !!   And the weathering on the bin appears to be right on to my eye ...


Wondering about the AMMO products you have on your bench??  What have you been using them for and how do you like them thus far ??  I have been experimenting with them as well ...


Thanks,
--Paul

Thanks Paul. I appreciate the kind words. It was great to meet you as well. I am just getting used to the Ammo washes and effects. I used them on the ore chute. I want to try using them on some castings and some other places. I use odorless turpinoid to thin and spread them out. I picked that info off an plastic modeling site. So far I really like them. I still haven't tried to use them on wood yet. I may have to experiment some.

Hi guys, very inspiring work on this kit. I will continue to follow your effort on it
Eric QUébec city

Thanks Eric. Always glad to hear what you are up to as well. Here is a little update also.

More wood was on the list to grain and stain. This bundle is 35 pieces. I am also not the best in knowing the sizes of all the wood. I was lucky enough to get this great tool at the Expo. Hal Reynolds "Atlantic Scale Models" gave them out as freebie. So far it has been invaluable in helping me. I am not sure if Hal sells them, but he should.

While I was waiting for the stain to dry I installed the crossmembers on the bent legs

After the wood is all dry you cut out 40 pieces for the walls floor and other places. I use old pill jars to keep my wood in. I had already glued in the chute floor supports in this picture.

You start from the bottom and start gluing all the way up to the top. The boards for the chutes are glued in during this as well. Brett has excellent templates for all of this.I tried hard to make sure there were as few gaps as possible.

Next was to install the chute side walls. You glue the first two on and the third is done later. I glued two of them together first then attached them to the chutes.

Once the chute walls were in it was time to lay out the side walls to the tipple. I used double sided tape to hold them in place while I glued them together. It is so nice to be able to pick out the pattern of colors of the wood pieces you put together. It really makes for a blend of board aging.

After you build the side walls it is on to the front wall. It was pretty simple as far as this went. You also install the last of the three spacers from before. At this point you are also glad or sad as to how square everything is. With the addition of the walls, things that may be a little off square start to show. You also go in after and add a good deal of trim to really secure it all in.

I have actually done a little more, but you will have to wait for an update maybe later this week. Thanks for looking in.






Mike, You in there?

Dustin,


Great job!!!  I am following along and immensely enjoying your build.  It is neatly done.  I'll keep following. 

Dustin,

Great job on the build. I'm enjoying the thread.

Tom ;D

Thanks Donato. I am glad that you are following along. I think my counterpart is starting ramp up production here soon as well.

Tom, its always nice to know you are following along. Your builds are always full of tips.

The bin gates will be added to this very soon. I have to finish putting them together.

I'm really enjoying this build.  Really shows the quality of Brett's kits and the skill of these two fine builders.

Well, the ol' RUNNER has finally surfaced. After Expos, Symposiums, the distractions of life, trips to see the grandchildren, etc. I am back! I see I better have not lost any touch just to stay in the sight of Bill and Dustin. As Butch said to the Sundance Kid "Those guys are really good!) But I can still catch-up...remember I am unencumbered with any J-O-B like those young guys are.


I started with the bents- first tip is that I always make photo-copies of each template to actually work on. That way your original stays clean and intact- since the templates are 11x17 make a copy of each half as it will be easier to work with. Test your copier to make sure it is exactly accurate 1 to 1. Make a copy of one of those thin clear-plastic rulers. You don't want to screw up your original.


I am trying for a gray rather than a reddish-brown stain for by bents and other wood parts. The aged,untreated lumber around here where my taconite and puriat mines are located is a silvery gray for the most part. I believe the color of this lumber depends on several variables- type of tree the wood comes from, area of the country, climate and weather conditions, etc. What opinions (facts?) do you have?


I stained the cut and grained pieces with a short dunk into alcohol and black water-soluble India ink, and then gave them some texture using Rembrandt Grays 704.7 and 704.8. The result is what I was trying for, but the cell phone pics don't do justice to the gray.


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Yippee! Glad to see you are back and holding up the weathered look of wood.


Marty

WoW!!  That really looks like real heavy timbers.  Great job!

Great job giving the timbers a weathered and textured look.  I really enjoying this "team" build. 

Nice job on the wood, Mike.  Around here we don't screw up our opinions with facts.   ;D

Jeff

Mike's back!  The timbers look great. Looking forward to watching you catch up. Be careful, Mike and Dustin are good.

Now its a party!! I love the grey by the way. As good as the kit goes together I have no doubt that you want catch up with us.

Mike and Dustin, coming along great !!


Mike, I too really like the grayish coloring to your "timbers".  One question...  I really like your graining of the wood and can never achieve the same look.  Can you describe what tools you use and the technique, i.e., light pressure or more aggressive.  Most appreciated.


Thanks guys for sharing and keep up the wonderful modeling,
--Paul

Fantastic (as always).


Specifically, how are you applying the colors to the "dipped" wood? just splotches of washes? dry brush? I'd love to know exactly how you apply the tints and what your general formulas are if you are creating thinned washes.


Great job!


John

I know - I know!!  The curmudgeon  just matched the old grey timbers to his hair!!!   ;D ;D ;D ;D

Hi guys:

Great job so far. I've been following along.

karl

Thanks to all who commented on the grain and coloring. Much appreciated.


Paul asked about graining, and I have to say over the years I have picked up more tools for distressing and graining wood than the law allows. I have tried all of them with very mixed results. I own about a dozen "scratch" brushes, steel and copper, and even applying heavy pressure as well as light I am still usually disappointed with the results. File cards sometimes are OK, but even a little pressure seems to tear the wood, and like a razor saw blade will leave a "corn row" effect.


A couple of years ago I asked my friend Don Railton how he achieves such a great grained appearance on stripwood, and he told me he uses an X-ACTO knife with a #11 blade exclusively. Don usually wins several firsts at most national model contests, and I consider him to be as good as anybody whose work I have seen. Use it in light strokes, upside down, curve grain around a knothole, etc.,etc,. It may take a little longer, but on one of Brett's kits you treat each board as a separate model.


Speaking of Brett, his design of the styrene jigs and assembly technique for the tipple bents and construction is truly ingenious. Just when you thought you had seen it all! And the presentation you see when you open the kit box makes you think you got your money's worth even before diving into the construction.


Achieving the gray stain for the mine was pretty straight-forward. I simply used A/I, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol from the drug store. 70% and 91% readily available for less than $2 per pint. Since the idea is to have as little water as possible, I order through my Walgreen's a 99% alcohol in a gallon size. Also available from Amazon. I mix about 1½ teaspoons of Higgins Water Soluble Black Ink per pint of alcohol. I also stock several brown and sepia tone inks. In addition I have about 20 Rembrandt artist chalks.


I put the A/I in a pan and drop in the stripwood (or wooden ties). I leave some pieces in for a minute or two, removing them with a tweezers and put them on paper towels to dry. Occasionally I blot some or wipe them very lightly with a paper towel. The idea is to vary the color a little from board to board. Toward that end, after they are dry (just minutes) I will add a little texture with a couple of the lighter gray Rembrandts- I think 704.7 and 704.8. Wet the sticks lightly and sprinkle on the chalk, and work in with a soft brush. Don't overdue the texturing or you will obscure all your graining.


I've finished the tipple bents and framing. Those guys better not look back- something's gaining on them!


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Looks great Mike.  Nice coloring.

Jerry

Mike thanks for sharing your technique - I really like the affect you get by adding the grey chalk to the the A&I stain. Do you use the board with the nails sticking out of it?




Dustin - don't let him get ahead. Those retired guys with all that time on their hands. >:(


Enjoying the builds guys.  Looking forward to your continued progress reports.

Mike,
Thanks so much for the information on the graining and the staining of your boards, very much appreciated.  Like you I have had limited success with the brass and steel brushes as well as the file cards and razor saws.  I may just give your back end of an Exacto blade a try on my next project....   And I think I have a good idea what that project may be, thank you !!


Also, your framing and tipple bents look very nice and love the coloring you achieved ...  Looking forward to all the wonderful modeling from all on this build thread.  Keep up the great work all.


Thanks again,
--Paul

Mike, as always fantastic work. The grey looks so good. I've got quite a bit more done myself. I have been struggling with the bin gates. I had a look in my mind and just couldn't get it to turn out that way. I'll have an update soon.

Hey Dustin, it probably will look great to the rest of us. As Elliott used to say when he got a little frustrated on a build "I'm going on to the next step- it's only a f*****g model!

I have made some progress myself. I have been working on the bin gates. I wanted them to look used but not to rusted. I feel as if they would also have a faint greasy look just due to how they would have operated. I have a paint that I like a lot. It is called Mr. Metal Color. Dark iron to be specific. This paint is unique in that it is buffable once dried. Sounds weird I know. I used this as the base color. I took a guess that the bins would have been made from iron or steel. The picture shows one that is buffed and one that hasn't been yet. Also the paint goes on really thin so it doesn't cover all of Brett's casting details.

Here are few pics after a little chalk. I dry brushed it also with transparent orange iron oxide. These are the beginning steps. I had to add several layers a little at the time.

I also wanted them to have a worn metal look. Whatever came out of the gates would have wore on the metal. This is a pic of checking the color against the tipple.

Here is what I finally came up with. Its as close as I can get to what I was thinking.

Next I added all of the truss rods. I used my Iron paint again. I like that I could add a sheen to the rod. I can always hit them with a little chalk if it doesn't fit the overall look later.

While waiting on things to dry here and there I built the landing. It was pretty straight forward.

So, here is where it stands right now. All the bin gates are attached. Truss rods run. I have to build some steps next. Then I'll move up a level to the tipple house. I have already started sanding the walls for the tipple house.

It looks great Dustin! I'm enjoying the thread - thanks!

Looking very nice Mike and Dustin!

Enjoying watching this build come together.  I'm back in NZ now - hoping to stretch bed time a little later than 8pm next week!  Then there will be time for modelling.

Cheers, Mark.

Both builds are looking very good, great in fact.

Tom ;D

Most of you are aware that Dustin's mother passed away last week. Our prayers and sympathy go out to Dustin and his family. May she rest in piece.

I'm plodding away and I'm finishing up the ore bin. One tool I use whenever I can is 3M 465 transfer adhesive. Perfect for adhering the boards to the paper side wall templates. Again, I make a copy of the original template in case I screw it up. Using the tape instead of glue is quicker, neater, and of course makes warping not a factor.

A few months ago Brett put me on to Jax Pewter Black as a replacement for the A-West Blacken-it I had used for many years. I think the Jax adheres even better to the white metal castings, and I also find that it does a great job on brass wire. Shown are most of the castings after a minute soak in the Jax, then rinsed, but before buffing with Q-tips, felt wheel (from Dremel- hand held on the little pieces), etc. Some will also get chalk and/or acrylic paint. Brett's castings get better and better, which I thought impossible. This is one great kit- I'm anxious to use some of the other jigs and templates included.

The last three pics are of the bin with all but a few details to be added. Some clean-up is needed, and I need to figure out some more or different on the gates. Animated (working) gates are probably not going to make an appearance. At least I'm thinking about it- kind of like I always think I'm going to add lighting to my structures and dioramas. Like my logging models, this was from an era that pre-dated electricity.


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WOW!  The detail on those ore chute doors is fantastic.  Great build.  I take my hat off to you.   :D

Mike, I love the different take on the kit.

Mike

Very cool

Thanx
Bob

Thanks Dustin, UP Fan, Marty, and Bob. I've started the tipple house and I'll try to make a few points not already covered. I find out that modeling "faded" barn red or boxcar red paint is even more difficult than "peeling" red paint. After researching Google images, a Dr. Ben chart, and some trial and error on the kitchen counter, any natural fading of most red shades becomes pink. Here are some examples:


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After I painted all the siding boards Apple Barrel "Barn Red" 20577, I sanded lightly as Brett suggested one hour later. I only did half, and results aren't as good the longer past one hour you wait. Since my base color was the grey A/I stain, just the right amount of sanding left some of the A/I intact. Too much sanding and I had to reapply more A/I, or add some alcohol and gray chalk with a fine brush to the bare wood areas. I also used a scratch brush from Micro-Mark that works like a mechanical pencil, especially for board ends.


I've gone back and forth, and have had several discussions with Dustin on nail holes (nail heads). I've probably participated in two dozen threads over the years debating the subject. I believe from 100+ feet away you wouldn't see average size nail heads on most wooden buildings. I've put thousands of nail holes on models over the years, but no more on HO models. The biggest reason is: It's easier not to.


When sanding one or more painted boards I found it easier to NOT round the corners by placing them on a 1" X 2"- somehow it was easier to sand them flat and not the edges.


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So after all that I have built one little wall (actually more than that but this post is already way too long). The result isn't great, but is something I can work with. These big close-up
photos are for my benefit, not yours. They not only humble the builder, they tell you where all the warts, fuzzies, blemishes, glue spots, and shiny spots are. Your cell phone camera is one of your most invaluable tools.


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Mike


This is some very nice work! It is really turning out great. Love the detail photographs.

Mike and I seem to be at a meeting place as far as our builds go. The Runner does some great work.Here are the stairwells complete. I liked them so much I built them twice. Mostly my fault.

Here are a few of the construction pics of the tipple house going together.

Once these were together its time to grain and stain!

I save all kinds of stuff, the tube came from the box my wife treadmill came in.

That's a lot of lumber!!

Here is where I took a hard left from everyone else. I chose not to use the red. I am going to build this kit alongside another kit. More info on that later. I will say both kits came from the same mind, just not manufactures. It will be a larger dio with two mine structures and both are going to be grayish wood. Due to the local of both. In my head it sounds good. Lets hope I can pull it off. So here is the tipple with wood going on.

Looking great Dustin!

I wanted it to have the look that cheap paint was used and it is peeling already. Even though the age of the mine isn't that old. I may tone down the natural wood some. I want to get the roof on first though. Here is the tipple house all clamped up.

Here are a few shots of the tipple being lined up and the ore car rail at the top of the tipple.

Once the tipple house is on, it really starts to take shape. I [/size]really like this shot looking into the tipple house.
[/size]Also the stairs are all mounted.

The NBW are some kind of fun! They sure add to the build though.

I am on to the rafters now. This is one of those builds you can't help but stare at as you go. Thats were I am at the moment. It has been nice to lose myself in building a little here lately. I am like Mike though I use my phone camera as a tool as much as any that is on my bench.

Nice progress.  Looking really good!

Cheers, Mark.

Your doing a great job Dustin,  looks awesome
  Sam

Progress post. Again, I get more out of these big pics than you do. Some of the most glaring "need to be fixed punch-list" items are a few rafters that are too high, paint touch-up on NBW's, and a NBW that misses alignment with its truss rod. Most of the rafters have been added, both stairways, NBW's, wing wall, trim pieces. Looking like a mine building. Like the tipple support frame, it will be tough covering up the rafters. I thought about one of those hokey "roof under construction" scenes, but nah.


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Wowzers, Mike, that looks great!  You guys are doing a bang up job on this kit so far.

Jeff

Yes indeed great work displayed here on this forum.  I am hard pressed to decide who is the better craftsman/artist of the bunch.  Guess it's because you all learn and teach from and to each other.  That's why I hang out here so you all can rub off on me.

Great looking builds!  Mike I agree that the camera is one of the best modeling tools.  I always take a picture, blow it up, and mark it up for my changes.
I'm sure glad I bought one of these kits from Brent at the EXPO.

Very Nice work Mike and Dustin. Thank you to take time to share with us your effort on this wondeful kit.
Can't wait to see more. I don't comment often, but I consult this thread two or three times a day to check if any new upgrade are comming.

Eric QUébec city

Mike...

GREAT structure.  The framing is terrific. After you do a few of these you discover that fully framing a structure doesn't take that much longer.  I frame everything as I find it hard to hide the cardboard edges on roofing along with the years later card board warp.

Besides.......... I know what's in there.

Thanx
Bob

Mike...

One more thing on the roof joists.................  I cut and clean up the length on the over hang tails after I put on the roof sheathing.  Then I cut them off with a Xuron cutter.  It crushes the ends a bit but I swell them back up with a touch of alcohol.  It goes really quick.

see ya
Bob

What Bob is talking about. I have several Xuron cutters, and one I keep real sharp for rafter tails. Others for plastic parts from a sprue, wire cutting, etc. I am going to get a square toenail cutter to try it out as Brett suggests. These rafters didn't need trimming since they were laser cut- I know, almost like cheating, but sure nice for the top end of the rafters that had five sides to fit them over a header.


Thanks again to Jeff, Eric, Mark, John, Donato, Sam, and Bob- glad you are along and enjoying.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-150515152606.jpeg)

Mike that tipple is looking wonderful.[/size]As with any model I like to do research. I have been looking at images of roofs and studying how the rust effects the panels different. The roof believe it or not is one of the most important parts of the model. Only because it is the first thing people see. Here are a few of the images that I've been saving. Notice in the last pic that there is no visible nail heads or holes.

Here are a few more.

Very cool roofs Dustin. I have some favorites as well and keep a "weathering" photo event in my iPhoto files. I have a favorite of Dustin's and I'll get to it after I show this photo of "notched" rafter ends. It was taken by Bill Obenbauf and I am sure he won't mind my borrowing it from his great thread on Brett's forum. Even though Bob Parrish would cut them himself, I was happy that Brett laser-cut them for us, especially since they will be covered up with roof panels and the roof is not removable. You could make a jig I guess but I like these.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515120947-79592195.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515120947-79592195.jpeg)


Now here is my favorite Dustin roof. I like the color of the rust, and the lower edges are jagged. I may have to run a few of the panels in a small "Evil Etchant" bath to try to achieve that look (I have a lot of it left- good thing since Radio Shack closed. I also still have my HAZMAT outfit.The splotchy rust might have to be dabbed on with a small piece of kitchen sponge or a piece of "new" terry cloth- lots of experimenting ahead. I really like how right above the left half of the window, the lowest layer of corrugated is only about a foot tall. Probably has been covered up with a newer piece.
Hard to tell how wide the panels are as I can't detect the vertical seams. Hmm. Maybe that tells me something.
I also like the cap at the top- a thin cap that is not built from big klunky pieces of horizontal over-lapped siding like some roofs have.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515124025.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515124025.jpeg)

Dustin and Mike,
Great pair of builds as I follow along.
Excellent coloring of the wood framing and the painting and weathering of the metal castings of both builds.
Tom

Quote from: Mike Engler on May 15, 2015, 03:37:56 PM
I am going to get a square toenail cutter to try it out as Brett suggests.   

No toenail cuttin' pictures, PLEASE!!!   :( :( :(

Thanks Tom and David. Now would you cut your toenails with a sprue cutter?


So the purlins are all in place, and it's time for that roofing material. I'm tempted to do something besides corrugated, like individual cedar shakes or tar paper, but I will give the new spray primer and chalk-dusting method a try.

For the first time I am not going to use the "Evil Etchant" and will try Brett's (and Roger Malinowski's) method of coloring them with chalks. Of course if I'm not happy with the result I can always just start over with my old ferric chloride circuit board etchant.


If you are never going to build this kit, skip this paragraph. Bill Obenauf said in his build-thread on this kit currently running on the Sierra West Scale Models forum that there is an inconsistency between earlier versions of Template 1 and p. 40 of Brett's instruction manual. The lengths of the panels should be 9 at 1⅜" for the lower roof with hip roof; 5 panels at 1 5/16" for the lower roof above the ore bin; and 10 panels for both sides of the upper tipple roof. Before you cut, check the lengths on your model. It is important to trim the corrugated stock to the longest length you will need before you begin cutting the panels. If you trim the stock strip to the shortest length first you'll waste stock and could run out of it. As Brett says "cut the panels down to size measuring off the roof itself and move on with the construction sequence."


Maybe the above will help somebody somewhere. Anyway, here are some progress pics before the roofs go on.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-180515172612-796143.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-180515172612-7978201.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-180515172612-79792380.jpeg)

Nice work Mike.   Great coloring also.

Now as to the "Now would you cut your toenails with a sprue cutter?"   Yes!  Mine are so tough that the only thing I can get to cut them is a Xuron sprue cutter.  So don't laugh.
::)

The colors and weathering are amazing.

Thanks Jan. Dave, TMI. I'm not laughing- just don't let Gnatshop know- he won't like even hearing about it.

I love that outdoor shot of the tipple. It looks great! I am glad you said something about the panel sizes, I would have cut right of the template.

Outstanding build ..... just amazing detail.

Great looking model.  Color check, shadows check, texture check. 

If I didn't know better, I'd think I was looking at the real thing.  Great color, weathering and texturing.

Hi Mike:

Looks great sofar.

Karl

Looking very nice, Mike.  Great weathered colours.

Cheers, Mark.

Mike sure does some nice work.


I have been workin a little slower as of late. It's a busy time in the beer biz.


All the rafters are in and it's on to the purlins. It's starting to look like a roof.

I have almost all of the purlins on. Once I do I'll get some outdoor pics. I have a punch list of things as well.

Beautiful work, Dustin!

Cheers, Mark.

Dustin and Mike,

Both builds look fantastic. Very well done sirs.

Tom ;D

Dustin


It looks great!

Thanks Tom, Mark, and John I am glad you guys are liking the builds. I am having a blast doing this along with Mike. I managed to run out side the other day a get a few shots of the tipple in some natural light.

This last batch are some of my favorites.

Now it is on to the roof panels. I have some experimenting that I want to do. I will post my results of the different techniques.

Dustin, you are right to take them outside. It really shows off the great workmanship.


Good job!


Marty

Looks Good Dustin!

Alan

Great job with your builds so far gentlemen.  8)

I'm running out of superlatives for all you wonderful modelers.  I think I'm amazed each and every day I check into this forum and am presented with yet another beautiful display of superior craftsmanship.


Please keep them coming .....

Thanks for all the kind words by many of you- Dustin is certainly worthy, showing off his modeling skills the way he constructed the tipple and framework. We both are at the same point, ready to apply roofing material.


I've been away for over a week, but I'm doing some thinking, planning, and a little work. First, Brett and Bill Michaels did their corrugated metal panels by spraying with a gray primer, baking them for three minutes at 350℉, and then applying Rembrandt chalks, mostly varying shades of the rust colors. While they both look great, they are different looks from what I am trying to achieve.


I've a file of rust photos, and Dustin recently posted one that I've tried modeling a few times without any real success. Here is his, and another I took of a quonset building.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515124025.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-160515124025.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290515161559-7980112.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290515161559-7980112.jpeg)


Notice how the rust is streaky and splotchy, but doesn't really blend gradually from one shade to the other. So this look is what I'm trying to accomplish. I actually cut extra panels from some additional corrugated I had on hand (I also got to use my nifty little panel cutter some more! One side of the upper roof I finished the way Brett and Bill did theirs. I think Brett gave credit to Roger Malinowski for this as well, and I read Roger's treatment of this method as I also have his O scale version of this mine. Mine turned out OK, but my gray primer was a little too blue, and the rusting effects too uniform. So then I got out the Evil Etchant, and next time I'll show you how that turned out. I wind up putting both treatments on opposite sides of the same roof, tacking them in place so I can choose which I like best.

Mike - after priming my corrugated roofs, I paint them with a metallic paint - usually gun metal grey.  This gives them that poxy look - like the rust is starting to bubble up through from underneath.  I then paint/ chalk my roof colour over this.  Just thought you might want to give it a little experiment to see what you think.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, I will certainly try this. Do you air brush or paint the gun metal? I was thinking I would try one of the Reaper or Vallejo metallic paints, although I think I still have Floquil Gun Metal. Also, what brand and color primer? I assume it was a rattle can. Also am thinking of trying a "peeling" paint method with the rust color paints using a "resist" such as hair spray, mineral spirits, or rubber cement, etc. over the prime/ gun metal base.


Here are the pictures of both sides of the tipple roof- the first one showing using a primer and then blending gray and rust colored chalks on each individual panel.


The second photo was taken after I went outside to the picnic table on the deck, and dipped several panels of the aluminum in Archer's Circuit Board Etchant (used to get it at Radio Shack). After rinsing a few times and then dried, I touched them up with Rembrandt chalks using rust colors. They turned out very randomly, and maybe too much so. The last panel on the right stayed in a little longer and thus has air holes and the bottom right has rusted away.


I sprayed a light coat or two of Krylon Workable Fixatif on both sides of the roof, which I have been using as a Dull-cote replacement ever since Mr. Testor screwed up yet another great product by changing the formulation on Dull-cote. It seems to keep the chalk in place. All the roof panels on both sides are tacked in place to a strip of 3M double-sided tape applied to the center purlin.


Let me hear some opinions as I continue experimenting.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290515161559-82261119.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-290515161559-82271969.jpeg)

Mike,

   I'm still waiting on Brett to send me the kit so I haven't read the instructions...but is the weathering method you followed from the instructions? I thought Brett has a new way to weather the panels to avoid having to use the "Evil Etchant".

Alan

PS, Could just be the camera/lighting...but the panels appear to contain too much of a red tint.

Fine work!

Alan-  the new method without etchant is in the first photo- the second photo is of the other half of the roof where I used etchant. While not as bright as the photo indicates, the rust chalks I used were too orange. I'd fix them but I don't think I will wind up using either of these versions.

Mike


I spent a few minutes going through the barn roof pictures I have - every one of them looks a little different.  Here is one of the pictures of a roof that is getting very rusty but not rusting through.  This is what I would shoot for in chalk color - a little darker brown and less orange.  To me orange is new rust as it would look when you are just getting through the galvanized.  I think the galvanized would be long gone on a mine roof with wood weathered like you have done so well.  Just my two cents.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300515211530.jpeg)

Terrific reference photo.  Thanks for posting.

Wonderfull, can't wait to see more progress  on this two project.
Eric Québec city

Mike - actually I don't own an airbrush.  I typically brush paint - both primer, gun metal and top coat, and then fix chalks with alcohol.  Up until now I have used Floquil.  I find by doing it this way I can install the roof first and then paint.  Often in my structures roofs need to be flashed into existing walls and the like and painting first leaves these touch-ups which can be tricky to blend.  It also means I can make sure I get paint on all the edges.  I also put nail indentations in my roofing before cutting into individual pieces using a blunt compass.  I then flip the pieces which makes them look like lead headed nails.  You need to get the nails at purlin spacing's, and if you want the bottom of the pieces to vary in length a little, you need to account for this.

I like the first photo as a starting point - but think it would look better with that metallic texture underneath.  The second one looks too random to my eye.

Must go - late for work!

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks John- I appreciate your comments about the rust. I enlarged your photo as much as I could to try and see what kind of panels they are. They look wider than they are tall which I don't think is usual for corrugated. I think you are right about the colors, and probably easier to duplicate than Dustin's photo.


Mark, I've been working with your metallic paints and I thank you for your ideas. I am skipping the nail impressions on this model- too much else going on. I'll post some new pics a little later.


Also thanks to Eric, Alan, LHC, and Bob B.

So I have had some fun experimenting for a couple of days, and I think any of these things will work. The lack of control of the etchant is good and bad, but Roger, Brett, Bill, and Mark all do a great job with their similar methods. Though I'm not done yet, Mark's idea of Gun Metal (I actually used Reaper's "Shadowed Steel" acrylic) has some merit. It looks like there is a steel roof under there. So here is what I went with after taping all the panels to a cardboard sheet:


1) Sprayed a light coat of Color Place (Walmart) Gray Primer
2) Dry-brushed Reaper Miniatures 09052 "Shadowed Steel" They have many metallic colors in little Vallejo style bottles.
3) Light brushing of Rembrandt 704.5 grey chalk.
4) Some light brushing and dabbing of Rembrandt browns and a occasionally a very little black chalk.
5) Applying rust with the burnt sienna chalks, mostly 411.3
6) When I got them about right I gave a light spray with my Dullcote replacement, Krylon Workable Fixatif. As Bill Michaels points out, some of the chalk disappears so you still have to touch up- or in my case add some more color- maybe.


I haven't totally figured this out, but I am getting close to something acceptable.


A few photos as I am about ready to move on to the head frame. The chute extensions and shed roof were added, as was the railing. I also added the flashing and made the strips ⅛" wide before folding.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030615233120-82522142.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030615233120-8358595.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030615233120-8359762.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030615233121-83601974.jpeg)

Panels look much better now. Nice work...

Alan

Mike


The roof looks great!  As for the picture I posted, for future reference if I post something you think will be useful send me an email and I will email you the raw photograph that will be much better for blow-ups.

Mike,

Thanks for the mini tutorial on your weathering technique.  The chutes look great.

WoW!!!! That guy Mike sure is a tough act to follow. The tipple looks great from the roof to the footings. I love the picture that looks up from the bottom all the way to the top of the tipple.

With all that said, I have been slowly working to complete my roof. I cut out all the panel pieces first. I use a mini
cutting tool for mine also.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062659-83661423.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062659-83861103.jpeg)
I make sure to keep the pieces separate since there are different sizes.

I wanted to test a few things first so I cut a few samples to work on. I used these to get the techniques down that I need to get the look I wanted. There are plenty of things that I am still learning myself.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062659-83872459.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062700-8388575.jpeg)

Once I got a general idea of the look it was on to painting them. I used the grey primer and baking method that Brett describes in the manual for the base.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062700-83892103.jpeg)




First I dry brushed all the panel with a color I have called dark iron. It gives the panels a metallic coloring.Next I added layers of thin enamel washes to each panel. I built them up slowly so I could make sure not to just wash out all the groves with rust.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062923-8390964.jpeg)

Here is the finished result. This is with the enamel washes, chalks, artist oils and even a little AI lightly brushed on. I wish I had a better way to explain it. I just built it up a little at a time.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062923-83911869.jpeg)

With panels all weathered up to was time get them installed.




(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062923-8392749.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062923-83931629.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615062923-8394825.jpeg)

Here is the last few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615063052-8395532.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615063053-83991189.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-060615063053-8400811.jpeg)

I still have to add the flash and a few other things. This is where I am at for now though. I hope you guys like it. let me know what you think. I look forward to seeing what the Ol Curmudgeon does with the head frame.

Great job Dustin and Mike. I'm enjoying this dual build.

Tom ;D

Hey Dustin,

   The metal panels look Very Good!

Alan

Dustin


Your build looks great!  Two first class builds in the same thread - I am really enjoying this thread.

Nice work, Dustin.

The paint work has worked very well.

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks everyone for all great comments. I am really enjoying building these mine at the same time.


The tipple is all finished up and I was able to run outside and get a few shots. Its on to the head frame next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615210950-8411110.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615210950-8445881.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615210950-84462322.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615210951-84472261.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615210951-84481870.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615211132-84491584.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615211132-8450201.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615211132-84521581.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615211132-84531035.jpeg)




The last one is a pic of Mikes and mine side by side. I think this is a neat shot. We seem to be at the same part as of right now.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-100615211205-8454468.jpeg)

Dustin,


Beautiful .... just beautiful (did I say that before?)(no matter!)  The photos are great, I especially love the low level shot looking up. .... Very "realistic".

Nice comparison.  Both are very well done.  Keep going.   :)


Jeff

Thanks to all of you who commented. But as Dr. Jeff says, get this thing going again.



Dustin, a great job on the roof, actually a wonderful job on the entire ore bin and tipple structure. Great modeling we all appreciate.


No rest for the wicked, so on with the show. Working with Brett's kits, or for that matter any wooden structure model, you needn't bother making the effort if you are not willing to spend sufficient time detailing, staining, and weathering your stripwood. Another batch of several dimensions are needed for the head frame, and since we've already discussed the methodology for graining, staining, etc. we'll skip over that.


This was a delightful segment of model building. While challenging, it is almost impossible to screw up if you can read, are patient, and can focus on what you are doing. This is because Brett provides some incredible cutting guides, jigs, templates, and instructions. As intricate as this little tower looks, it is remarkable how perfectly aligned and squared up it goes together with all the neat tools provided.


A few photos, and these were taken before any of the detailing takes place !    Fun stuff.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110615172419-8481753.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110615172419-8482662.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110615172419-8483290.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110615172420-84842254.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-110615172420-84851035.jpeg)

HI guys:

Looks wonderful sofar. Love the weathering.

Karl

This is an excellent build thread!  You guys are doing a great job on these kits.  Thanks for all of the photos.

Sorry for the hiatus- it's like we are a TV show taking off the summer. I see it's been almost six weeks since I posted last. I wish I could say I've been off having fun. But it is all good now.

I started working on this again this past weekend, and I am finishing up the head frame. I also decided this will be a silver mine, as this type of mine will best complement my western logging theme. I'll post some pics in the next few days of a new method I'm using to vary the weathering on the skip and other hardware.


These pics are pretty straight-forward progress shots. The foam cradle is to keep the frame vertical while constructing it because of the stripwood that protrudes from the bottom. Brett's idea, not mine, as are most of the good ideas in this build.


And Justin- thanks for waiting, you can hit it again any time.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-200715212832-87272127.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-200715212832-87312291.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-200715212833-87321536.jpeg)

The Tower looks good Mike!

Alan

Thanks Alan for the kind word.

I've been working on the head frame detailing. There are several white metal castings, the key ones being the ore skip, the large sheave, and the pillow blocks for the same. I've weathered this type of castings several ways over the years, usually starting with A-West Blacken-it. This dependable product is now gone from the shelves due to the untimely death of the manufacturer, and since I'm about out of it I decided to try something different.


I have several modeling heroes but probably at the top of the list is Chuck Doan. I have long admired his models on forums such as this and on his Fotki site and more recently his FB page. I was fortunate to have met Chuck a few years ago at a National Narrow Gauge Convention in Pasadena, and to have spent a little time with he and his father observing several models in the contest room.


Chuck has been kind to all of us by sharing some of his secrets on Fotki and Facebook, and recently posted a method he has used that produced great results. When I first read this I thought that each successive layer merely covered up the previous, but was happy to find they not only blended nicely but produced a nice weathered rust, oil, and grease effect. Check out how Chuck did it on FB, and though his results were way better than mine in his 1/16 scale, my HO effort was adequate. I changed his materials somewhat to utilize what was on hand, so here are my layers:


1) Sprayed with Krylon flat black rattle can spray.
2) Applied a thin coat of Poly Scale Grimy Black.
3) Applied a thin coat of a mixture of three Vallejo acrylics of rust, black, and tan.
4) Then a mix of two Winsor & Newton Artisan Water Mixable Oil Colours (how's that
Karl?) raw and burnt umbers and a little black.
5) Finally added a little Rembrandt chalks using several umbers and siennas.


My photography doesn't do justice to the results but you get the idea. Some progress shots.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715003733-87331450.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715003733-87581435.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715003733-87592325.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715003733-8760576.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715003733-87611289.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715004028.jpeg)

Thanks for the recipe. That's really beautiful work on the castings and the wood! Perfect!


John

Mike,

Very convincing rust. The grease is a nice touch too. Are you modeling working mine or abandoned? If working then are you planning on making part of the wheel where cable runs shiny?

Vilius

A comment on another forum liked the rough used ends on the upper beams of the mine. Here is the response:



Thanks Michael. Getting the "used look" for timbers and beams is my "modeling secret No. 12". There are many types of stripwood available and a lot of manufacturers use Northeastern (basswood) or Mt. Albert (basswood, eastern white pine, sugar pine (don't use much as it is too spendy). I think the wood suppliers cut them to custom lengths for kit manufacturers. There are many more; Midwest, etc


The key is when they are cut in bulk lengths to ship to consumers or hobby shops, or to manufacturers to include in kits, look for the rough cut ends. See the bundle photo. In a structure like this one, most of the cuts will be for interior timbers, legs, cross pieces, etc. where the nice clean cut you get with a Chopper ll is desirable. But there are several beams on the top and elsewhere where you want the nice rough cut that the wood manufacturers get when they cut the stripwood at their factory. I asked a couple and was told it is a result of bulk cutting, a coarser, duller, slower saw, etc.


I just know it's tough to duplicate. I've been know to splice two pieces together to get two "good ends" for an exposed board, usually when the splice can be hidden by some detail part. I've tried using several different razor saws, fine and coarse, sharp and dull, with my old wooden mitre box, and I can't duplicate those nice rough cuts of the wood suppliers


The key tool of the trade for rough ends for larger stripwood (⅛" x ⅛" or larger is this file card (some call it a card file), available at the plumbing dept, of Home Despot or Ace Hardwares.. You can do some real violence to your wood, especially the softer varieties like eastern white pine, It makes for some great graining patterns, especially in the larger scales, as well as the larger HO scale sizes. Also use it to knock a little off the corners so they look a little worn. Vary your effects just as you have color variations.


Remember the close-up of the structure here is magnified about 35 times and won't represent what you will see with the naked eye from even a close viewing distance.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101132-87621055.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101132-87621055.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101133-8766698.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101133-8766698.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101133-8767565.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-270715101133-8767565.jpeg)

Hey Mike,

   Thanks for the tip on the card file for the larger pieces of wood. Do you have something special you use on the smaller pieces of wood? When I use a wire brush on them, it tends to "smooth" out the edges instead of roughing them up. I usually have to take a razor blade or and exacto knife and put little slices in the wood on those smaller pieces to get that rough look...but wanted to see what you used.

Thanks again for sharing!
Alan

Mike...

This stuff is great.

You absolutely nailed the wet oily look on the bearing and the grunge below.

Thanx
Bob

Thanks a heap Mike

Thanks John, Jan, Bob, and Bob. Very nice comments. Alan, I do what you do on the smaller stuff, but also have some success using the card file very lightly.


Thanks Vilius- good question; since it is a working silver mine I will need to have the sheave look used. I have a color chart of all my metallic colors in acrylics and I am leaning toward Vallejo "Oily steel" or PS "Gun metal" for the inside groove where the cable has shined it up. Also, the cable will have deposited a good amount of dirt from underground. I'm having trouble finding any color prototype pics of what I'm trying to depict.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-280715151159.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250715004028.jpeg)

Pencil lead could be good match. Don't take my word for it though. Try first and see if you like it.

Vilius

Uhh....wow!  I'm at a loss for words.  Beautiful work.  (That doesn't seem to do it justice though).   :o

Check out Model Masters "Jet Exhaust" for another option for weathered/worn metal.


dave

Mike and Dustin


Great detail work - I'm watching with great interest - and taking notes.

Thanks Vilius, Bob, John, and Dave. Vilius I tried it and I liked it, and Dave I will get some "Jet Exhaust" this weekend at the LHS. Do you know if it is available in acrylic and oil-based versions?



I've finished the head frame and played around with mocking up a diorama that will be airplane portable. I envision a few more compatible structures. I did want to see these first two in line before I am too far into the hoist house (a more traditional structure).


There were quite a few NBWs on the head frame, over fifty, and most of the ones I used were Brett's two-part die-cut nut/washers in three sizes. I did substitute some old Tichy styrene freight car truss rod castings for use backing up the truss rods on this model.


This build has really been fun to this point, and now I get to try some of Bill O.'s new castings tricks which if you haven't seen you should check out on Brett's forum on Bill's mine thread. I'll post one of his pics if he says OK- during the summer he is pretty much a river rat (competitive water skiing with his family)


I want to quick post before I get any discussions going. I thought Dustin was going to join us but apparently he has gone over to the Dark Side now that he has seen his O Scale kits.


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Okay, okay, okay! I am here. I have not gone to the dark side completely. I will admit I have acquired a few O scale offerings of late. Mostly for competition reasons. With that said it has been a busy summer in the beer biz. Plus I vacationed with the boss lady.


The head frame was next on my list. Lots of wood! The templates that are provided make this complex but simple. There is even extra wood in case cuts don't line up. It looks like a mini Jenga tower.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-300715181855-87762331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-300715181855-87762331.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-300715181855-8782312.jpeg)

Here are a few pics of the head frame as it was assembled. Even as complex as it looks it goes together like a dream. I had to see what it looked like up against the tipple.







(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-300715181855-87831069.jpeg)


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As Mike say's there are a plethora of NBW's. Once they are all on it makes the head frame pop. I wanted the hoist cable wheel to look worn but servicble. Almost a weather beaten look,but still used everyday. The last pick is were the head frame stands at the moment. I have a punch list of things left to do then it's on to the hoist house.







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Hey guys,you work on two different way, but I can't said who is the better. continue your excellent work and let us dream with your pictures
Eric Québec city

Beautiful work Mike and Dustin!

I'm really enjoying watching you both tackle this fantastic structure.

Cheers, Mark.

Both excellent builds , thanks guys.

Great work Dustin. Love the NBW finishes. The photos make us forget how microscopic those are.


John

Hi Mike & dustin:

You are both doing a great job with this one. Love your colors and weathering.

Karl

Im'd pizzed off - both of you put me to  shame!!

Ditto

Thanks to all of you guys for following along and for your kind comments.




This Dustin is quite the builder- a great job on the head frame. And fast too- he has a five week vacation and he caught up with me. Since he had bench time last night I better show some progress or I'll be left behind.




One of the things I do as a model builder that really gives me a sense of accomplishment is building an individual board wall. Learning Brett's techniques will enable any modeler to be a highly skilled scratch builder. Of course in the old days when we also had to build the framing wall board-on-board was a little more challenging, as Brett now laser-cuts these for us. I think all the young guys should have to pay their dues and buy one of the early kits just to build some frame walls.




I built the two end walls yesterday. The boards were already stained and weathered when we did the tipple house. Brett's stripwood traps for corners are genius- don't tell them how to do these Dustin- make them go buy the kit to know as much as we do.


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Great weathered paint, Mike!


dave

Only old wore-out guys can do old wore-out walls this good!!

Walls look awesome Mike...and Yes, since the Machine Shop is one of his older kits, I am having to build the walls the old fashion way...with hand made frames.

Thanks for sharing!
Alan

Thanks Dave, David, Alan, and the other David- Ledbetter that is.


I've finished all four walls and now it's time to make all of the windows and doors. None of those easy-peasy plastic window castings that are thick and clunky. These will be made from several layers of laser board that is a resin impregnated paper board that is as thin as the prototype but very strong and easy to work with, and also is easily stained with alcohol and chalk powder. Some pieces even have an adhesive backing for assembly ease.


It's time this thread had a guest who won't need an introduction if you are an Expo regular. Bill Obenauf is a good friend and a world class modeler. His stage name is Bill Michaels when he is hosting his hit morning radio show from the Quad Cities. He has his own thread of this mine build on Brett's forum:  http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com   Click on "The Forum" and then "Deer Creek Mine Build.


Bill has taken decorating Brett's resin castings to another level. Elsewhere on that forum Brett, Karl Allison, and the late Kevin O'Neill have several tutorials on priming, staining with chalks and alcohol, and additional chalk weathering these incredible resin castings. Bill has added the dimension of signs and graphics to the little crates and barrels. Here is some of his work. I included two of my own undecorated castings alongside a quarter to give you a reference as to the skill level Bill has attained.


I want to emphasize the last three pics are the modeling and photos done by Bill Obenauf.


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Mike those walls look fabulous. I appreciate the earlier accolades as well. I still have a few things to finish up on the hoist but the house walls are soon to take shape.
The variation on the wall without the windows is wonderful. Have you started on the interior flooring?


That Bill guy sure keeps raising the bar doesn't he? He did give me an idea for a extra detail to add myself.


I should have an update in a couple of days. Talk to you soon my friend.

starting to look really great Mike, keep the pictures coming, just awesome
  Sam

Hi Mike:

Your walls and castings look great.

Karl.

Thanks Dustin- let's see how you did the walls. And thanks for the comments from Sam and Karl. Karl, I imagine you are not going to the narrow gauge convention in Houston. Maybe next year in Maine. I still can't believe I missed you in Scranton. You must really have done a "drive-by".

I've finished all four walls and now it's time to make all of the windows and doors. None of those easy-peasy plastic window castings that are thick and clunky. These will be made from several layers of laser board that is a resin impregnated paper board that is as thin as the prototype but very strong and easy to work with, and also is easily stained with alcohol and chalk powder.

Each window is made up of seven pieces, and include spraying the mylar "glass" that gets sandwiched between two frame pieces, after they are stained with alcohol and Rembrandt chalk. Just like a real window. Adding a couple of small pieces of channel here would allow the lower sash to be raised and lowered. Even if you don't do that you can model them open, closed, or anywhere in-between.

Cracks, holes, shards, and missing panes are easily added and Brett includes a template to help do these effects neatly. There are seven pieces that make up each window and the best thing about the finished product is that they don't look like plastic windows. All the other major large kit suppliers- George, Doug, Bob VG, etc all use Grandt or Tichy plastic windows to my knowledge. Photos of the finished models that include the plastic windows are almost as much of a dead give-away that the scene is not real as it would be if Little People were included.

Brett's laser-board is great to work with, and he uses an incredible self-adhesive that actually self-adheres. I still used a dot of canopy glue or ACC gel to make sure it all held together. This is not a big structure as it only has seven windows and three doors, and a hoist cable opening. Oh, and the doors have two-part plates and door-knobs on both sides of the doors.

Working with chalk and alcohol can cause some build-up on things like window mullion frames. Use a magnifier or take some close-up photos like these to identify where you will want to clean-up here and there with the tip of a No. 11 blade.

So on to the hoist house floor and the diorama base. I'm still behind Dustin as I think he has already decorated all of the castings. First some pics of the finished windows and doors. The first one is using a stripwood guide to make aligning perfectly square. Brett teaches you to do this often, with various stages of the construction.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-070815120954-88741624.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-070815120954-88741624.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-070815120954-8879828.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-070815120954-8879828.jpeg)


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Hi Mike:

Like I said the walls look great. Even better as you finish them up.

Karl

Thanks Karl. What are you building these days? Don't tell me you are taking a couple of weeks off.


I'm plugging away, and always a nice diversion with one of Brett's creations are the many white metal and beautiful resin castings. And nothing smells better than resin in the morning with the possible exception of resin being drilled with your Dremel. Again, no room for short-cuts here. These resin castings rarely need any cleaning, and washing them is wasted time- simply not necessary. The ones that are wood, like wooden kegs, benches, cabinets, and crates get a light primer coat of Krylon Camo Khaki, and the ones representing metal like steel barrels and trash cans get Flat Black, also a Krylon rattle can.


Before spraying the round castings are drilled from the bottom to accept a round wooden toothpick with one of the points snipped off. Put the tooth-pick holders in a chunk of foam so that you can spray them. As we will see later this will allow us to paint the tiny bands on the barrels by holding a very small brush steady and rotating the barrel by twirling the tooth pick slowly. You keep your hands joined together on your work surface- this sounds awkward but you quickly get the hang of it and gets great results.


The best thing about Starbucks is their free wooden stir sticks. You can put 7 or 8 flat on your work surface, and then put a five inch strip of 2" wide carpet tape length-wise on them. Then cut the sticks apart with your X-acto knife, and now you have several sticks that you can attach many boxes, crates, shelves, workbenches to. Wear a plastic glove and spray all your castings, and after they dry the fun begins. We will decorate with chalk and alcohol, so the primer will give the casting some "teeth" to hold the decorating.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-130815213820-8927631.jpeg)


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-130815213821-8956846.jpeg)


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Mike,

Ditto to what Karl said on the walls. They look fantastic.

Tom ;D

Thanks Tom- I appreciate the atta-boy and I know that thumb will heal fast and you will be at the bench in no time.


There are several rather large interior details for the hoist house, and they are kind of kits within the kit. I'm usually not big on building Jordan vehicles and the like as I am out of my element when I get beyond basswood and card stock, or anything that requires more than white glue to hold it together. So while waiting for the primer to dry a little bit, I decided to see what a Stationary Horizontal Steam Boiler and a Double Cylinder Mine Hoist were all about. Well, they were a ball. Once you start you don't want to stop- you have to force yourself to let the five-minute epoxy get good and dry after you join a couple of pieces, before moving on.


My biggest problem was not knowing the nomenclature of all the parts, but that is another big reason why I love doing Brett's kits- the educational factor. When his manual says "make sure the crosshead guides, connecting rods, and crank discs fit together and are quartered", I'm doing a lot of back and forth from model to photos. High level of satisfaction when you can assemble and weather one of these little critters, especially when you build it in HO. A lot of 5-minute epoxy, some ACC, and occasionally Formula 560 Canopy glue are used to join resin, copper and brass wire, pewter, and styrene.


The third photo is the finished Stationary Horizontal Boiler, the Double Cylinder Mine Hoist, and the Mill Engine and Blower. The weathering is chalk, A/C (alcohol and chalk), and dry brushing Reaper and Vallejo acrylic metalic-colored paints. The assembled boiler was sprayed with flat black Krylon, and most metal parts were treated with A-West BLACKEN-IT- yeah I found another bottle.


Inspired by Bill Obenauf's work with signing wooden crates, I made a few up. After priming all the epoxy castings, and weathering them with various shades of chalk and alcohol, I applied a few signs, and I think they will be serviceable. Several are shown in the last photo.I have thousands of signs but I am going to have to resize some of them to HO crate size, which is pretty small. Back to decorating castings.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-130815213821-89581014.jpeg)


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Looks good!  One thing I'd suggest is doing something different to the smokebox part of the boiler casting.  That's because the smokebox got hotter than the rest of the boiler, and it would weather differently.  Think about photos of steam locos, e.g. the silver/graphite color. 


One thought would be to make it a lighter grey and then put a heavier coating of rust on that part.  Here's some inspiration from the smoker part of my smoker/BBQ:


dave

Thanks Dave. Thanks for the suggestion, and I agree the smokebox should have more white-gray. I've spent some time looking at Google images for some ideas. I probably won't do more rust as Brett cautions in his instructions about not depicting much rust, as you would't find many workers willing to work near rusty boilers in the mines. Same thing applies to steam donkeys in logging operations. Anybody else got any data, or interesting opinions?


I've applied the first scenery layer to the diorama base, and have cut, stained, and glued some ties in place. I've cut a few pieces of code 55 rail but will have to wait to lay the rail until I get a second HOn3 track gauge. I've also cut some code 40 rail for the ore cars.


Before I glue the elements in place I have to verify the spacing and alignment. The photo shows a rod that indicates where the cable will go. The rod rests on the top of the sheave, and goes through the center of the hoist door, and rests on the diorama base centered where the hoist will go.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-210815215351.jpeg)

I love it Mike! She sure looks good sitting there with some track. I need to get on the ball with mine. Kids sure do cut build time. In a good way though. I have tow walls boarded and starting on the others. Keep up the great work sir.

That's a good point about 'rusty boilers as safety hazard'!  I think toning the smokebox to a lighter grey would probably be OK.  (And a rusty smokebox is probably nowhere near the safety risk as the water part of the boiler.)


dave

Thanks Dave and Dustin. Dustin, I gave up modeling for many years while the kids were growing up, playing sports and involved in many activities. I did a lot of coaching football, hockey, and baseball as well as playing a lot of golf. I admire you hanging with the model building to the extent that you are, but it only gets tougher as they get older.


I'm starting the detailing which i consider the dessert phase of the diorama. This one is on a 11 X 14 frame board from the local Dick Blick store- Brett said I was crazy for trusting it not to warp. It is gesso-coated and the label said it was warp-proof. I even called a Blick product manager and got his assurance as well. I did use mostly alcohol instead of water to mist prior to using a reduced amount of water mixed with white glue to adhere everything.


The pics show you which castings to tone down with A/I, chalk, or dry-brushing. I have some additional dirt to put around foundations, doors to fix, and various touch-up work.


I make the casting placement and detail work last by only doing them for an hour or so at a time for several reasons. Give some thought to placement and resist the urge to finish. The last ten per-cent is the most important part of diorama building. They really are never finished- you can always make them better.


I still have some roofs to do. I have placed walk boards in several places including in front of the doors.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250815231212-9043635.jpeg)


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Sorry for the generally bad photography in the above four. I do study them and make notes as I do to make a punch list of the dozens of things that need to be fixed. Note in the third photo above a neat detail that Brett suggests you add- cut some very thin strips of paper that you have stained with chalk, and glue them in place as straps to hold the piping in place. Here is one more that shows some brightly colored castings that are screaming to be toned down.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-250815231213-9066222.jpeg)

(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sherv.net%2Fcm%2Femoticons%2Fhand-gestures%2Fpraising-the-lord-smiley-emoticon.gif&hash=df3e6ce7145a8a7267aff310af89177e7d68fd73)  Love all the details and the weathering.

Just great Mike. Your work holds up even under "magnifying glass" scrutiny. Amazing.


I hope I'll see some of your work in Houston.


John

I've seen one or two mine heads, and the immediate area around the shaft entrance is pretty well worn down by feet, you might want to work some more fine soil into there.  But that's just a nit on a great build!


dave

Dave, you are definitely right. I'm planning several footpaths and high foot-traffic areas, and a dirt vehicle road. I'm not one who plans exactly where these things will be (though I probably should be). I tend to add some of these details as I go depending how I think it will look best. I like Diorama Dirt (Monster Mod. Works) sifted for these roads and paths supplemented by chalks for shading etc.

If you want an alternative to Monster dirt (e.g. a different color), NE Brownstone has a very nice 'modeler's dirt' product that they introduced at Springfield earlier this year.


dave

HI Mike:

WOW!!!!!!!!! beautifully done. I really like that steam engine.

Karl

Dustin and Mike,
Really great weathering done on both of the mine builds !  8)
Tom

Thanks Karl and Tom- appreciate it. Dave, I will try that but it won't be part of this one. This is the home stretch and I'm well into final details. Last night I finished the last of the construction when I completed the removable roof and rafter system. More wizardry from Brett's laser. I heard his O scale sawmill kit finished first and second in kit-built dioramas by two different builders at the NMRA convention in Portland last week. I'm sure the craftsmanship was great, but how much of the credit should go to the designer-producer of the kit? My opinion is a lot, and I have a lot of personal experience- this is my tenth Sierra West kit, and one of the most fun. They have won a lot of awards and the big reason they did well is the design and quality of Brett's kits.


Here are a few pics of this mine scene coming together. I almost cried framing a shed to cover all the detail on the horizontal boiler and the detail on the wall behind it. I should have figured a way to keep it in the open, but I didn't want to do a hoky roof under construction. The tanks together are cool details, and the area where the little ore cars are being refurbished is a fun addition.


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Hi Mike:

The details look just great. I'm sure we will see final photos.

Karl

Mike,

Very nice job on the kit.  Keep up the good work.

Frank

Mike, love the mini-scenes. Great details and weathering.

Thanks for your comments. Frank and Karl are inspirational. I am more or less done with this- you really just quit working on them rather than finish them. I'll wait till Dustin catches up and kibitz on his work now and then, and post a photo of this occasionally instead of posting "final pics". As always Brett's kits are about as much fun as you can have.


This one outside with a friend's shade structure in the background that kind of blends in. The hammock is for me.


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Very nicely done Mike.....thanks for taking the time to post the build so we could watch your journey.  8)

Awesome...every bit of it! The wood, the roofs, the castings - love it all!


John

Mike


It looks great!  The sun light photographs are the best.  I sure wish someone would come up with a way to get good lighting in the contest room at the Narrow Gauge Conventions. ;)

Hi Mike:

All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks absolutely great.

Karl

Mike,

Very well done. The funny part is that I didn't realize at first that the structure holding the hammock was 1:1 scale and was about to ask about weathering technique you used on it  ;D.

Vilius

Thanks to Greg, my St. Louis buddies John and John, and Karl and Villius. No action here so I'll put up another outside shot. Along with some foliage I need to tone down my dirt if I take more outside pics.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-210915150258.jpeg)

Absolutely beautiful, Mike!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 22, 2015, 01:33:39 AM
Absolutely beautiful, Mike!

Cheers, Mark.

I second that .... make that "I trike that!"

Hi mike:

All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Beautiful work as usual.

Karl

Quote from: Donato on September 22, 2015, 12:33:56 PM

Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 22, 2015, 01:33:39 AM
Absolutely beautiful, Mike!

Cheers, Mark.

I second that .... make that "I trike that!"

Ehhhhhhh, I Quad that.

Mike,

Absolutely fantastic my friend, really beautiful work.

Tom ;D

Mike, it looks like a working mine...

Quote from: coors2u on August 22, 2015, 08:32:19 AM
I love it Mike! She sure looks good sitting there with some track. I need to get on the ball with mine. Kids sure do cut build time. In a good way though. I have tow walls boarded and starting on the others. Keep up the great work sir.

I decided to check back to see if Dustin has gotten the rest of those hoist house walls done. I can't rip on Dustin because I know raising the family always takes precedence over modeling- in fact when I was his age I was in the middle of about a fifteen year sabbatical away from model building while I was helping to raise our five- I coached a lot of hockey and baseball, and went to the other kids games when I wasn't coaching. I also found time to play over 100 rounds of golf a year until about nine years ago when I re-discovered kit-building. Owned and built a couple of businesses on the side.


So Dustin, have fun with those guys while you can. That kit ain't going anywhere- it will be there when you want to get back at it. But do finish it- it is taboo not to finish a build thread. I finished Twin Mills about a year before Elliott finished in our dual build thread, but he also followed me with a Best of Show at the National Narrow Gauge Convention.


Since I've been here last I need to thank Mark, Donato, Karl S., Janbouli, Tom, and Martin for stopping by with nice things to say.
I've fiddled with the mine a bit more and am incorporating it into a larger module, but that will be another story and another thread. I will try to get another photo or two with this beautiful weather.

OK, OK, OK, I have decided to get my arse in gear and get back to this kit. I can't make any excuses. I have cleaned off the bench and I am ready to get back at it. That means there should be pics and an update to follow soon. 


Sorry for the long pause in between.

Quote from: coors2u on December 07, 2015, 05:52:12 PM
OK, OK, OK, I have decided to get my arse in gear and get back to this kit. I can't make any excuses. I have cleaned off the bench and I am ready to get back at it. That means there should be pics and an update to follow soon. 


Sorry for the long pause in between.

Dustin


Good to hear your getting back to the workbench.  Looking forward to your progress pictures.  Keeping your family as your top priority is the way it should be - there will be more time for modeling when your old like Mike and I. I wonder if Mike has bought that new keyboard yet?

Dustin,

Family always first. I never missed any family function until my two were out of high school. I did miss a few Holidays due to Law Enforcement work however. The kids still talk about how Dad was always there. And, all the kits I had then I still have today! So like Mike said, "They kits aren't going anywhere".

Tom ;D

Glad to see this build continue.  ;D

Oh, I assure you that it is all family first here. I have just been using what free time I do have to take it easy. I have been working on a few plastic models.


With that said lets get on to an update.

The walls for the hoist house are the next thing that need to be built. Brett does a great job of providing the pre cut inner walls. You just have to stain them with a little chalk.


(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202903-101692029.jpeg)


Next is to place board on board. I decided to try a different technique to weather each board. I used the back on an xacto on each one and then used a small brush with different stain on them to create a little variation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215203019-102742488.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215203019-102752461.jpeg)

There is a trick to getting all the walls lined up so you don't see any gaps. I'm not supposed to say what it is but you may notice it in this pic.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202904-102672218.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202904-102672218.jpeg)

I wanted the walls to have a certain look. The hoist was steam driven. That means there would have been a great deal of moisture around to rot the wood in different areas. Especially cracks and where ever it could escape. Looking through some old steam pics and videos I saw a lot of this. Here are a few pics of the board on board construction.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202904-1026890.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202904-102692496.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215202904-102702002.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215203019-10271765.jpeg)

Here are a few shots of one of the walls finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215203019-102731368.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/35-081215203019-10272964.jpeg)


I have a few more done. I will get these finished up and post some pics soon.


More to come soon............

Dustin,


Wonderful build and weathering.  Love the board-on-board distressing.  This is a great clinic for me.  Thanks.

Hi dusatin:

Wall look great so far. Whose stains are you using and what colors are they. I like them. Gives great variation.

Karl

Thanks Donato and Karl.


Karl- the stains are from builders in scale.
Silverwood and Deadwood. I also mix the two together to get another variation. The boards were also stained with Brett's chalk method and then painted with a country grey paint that was lightly sanded away. I know it seems like a lot for each board but I think it's the only way you can get that look.

Dustin


This is some very fine modeling - Love it!

Dustin,

The walls look fantastic. Great job.

Tom ;D

It looks "quite" fine! Great job.

Looks great Dustin. I always like learning something new from you guys.  Jim

Quote from: jrmueller on December 10, 2015, 11:11:39 AM
Looks great Dustin. I always like learning something new from you guys.  Jim

....right????  It's like going to school....a school I LIKE going to!!!

Beautiful work, Dustin!

Cheers, Mark.

The wood looks great Dustin. Good to see you back at it.


What did the little man think of the new Star Wars?  Had he seen Episodes 4-5-6 on DVD?

Thanks for the kind words  guys. Have been working on the windows and should have those together soon.


Mike, he loved the movie. He had binge watched all the previous movies the week prior. I was pretty excited myself though.


Brett's new kit is a thing of beauty.