With the Bar Mills Tony's Meats on the layout, It's time to start a new kit build. Decided on FSM Butcher's Way to compliment Tony's.
Started with the pictures of the box contents, then a picture of the casting in a Dawn bath after the flash and mold marks filed or sanded. They were all pretty defect clean already. Very nice castings done by George. After the Dawn bath, the parts were rinsed in clean water and laid out to air dry. As you can see by the last picture, there's a heck of a lot of castings to this kit. Since the work bench is filled with drying castings, I think I'll re-read the instructions before diving into this fabulous kit. I have three more FSM kits and 4 more Bar Mills kits on the shelf. Bob is going to be a happy builder for quite a long time to come.
Finished priming the castings. Man! there are a lot of castings. Some I painted with an earth color (those pieces that will later be weathered wood) and the other castings received a light gray Tamiya Fine Primer. While they are curing for a day or two I started priming all of the walls. I followed Georges' method of dipping a 1/2" brush in the Floquil Paint (in this case it's Undercoat Light Gray), then into clean thinner and applying like a wash. I practiced on a piece of scrap clapboard to get the hang of how much paint to use and how to apply. Worked pretty darn well. George said to hold down each piece with a 1/8" piece of scrap while you apply the wash. This worked well, just watch the 1/8" piece of stock since paint will accumulate and dry there, later to be deposited onto your work piece. >:( Dip the end of the scrap piece into the thinner every once in a while and wiped it off on a clean paper towel. The completed pieces have to cure overnight, so I think I'll paint some cows for a while. ;D
So far, I'm really enjoying my first FSM kit build. Followed the lead of a couple other members here and build a wood stock holder. Should have built 1o pockets, but only build it to have 9 pockets, DUH. So one of the pockets had to 'buddy-up'. Still easier than rummaging through the box looking for the right wood each time
Good Luck on your first FSM build and I will follow along.
Take your time , follow George's instructions , and you will be rewarded with a really nice built structure.
Check a few other builds too to see the tips that are mentioned.
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 25, 2015, 06:38:21 PM
Good Luck on your first FSM build and I will follow along.
Take your time , follow George's instructions , and you will be rewarded with a really nice built structure.
Check a few other builds too to see the tips that are mentioned.
Thanks Tom. I've bookmarked other Butchers Way builds and have read all at least once. Find a new 'nugget' every time I re read one.
Bob,
I'll be following along as well. Reading Bob built this one for me. I gave him mine to build and all it cost me is BBQ lunches for the rest of my life!
I'll post a photo much later in your thread as I don't want to jump in on yours this early with photos.
Tom ;D
Looking forward to your pics, Tom. As long as it doesn't cost me BBQ lunches for the rest of your life. ;D
Worked on the cattle, primed and ready to paint, and added the 'color coat' to the slaughter house. Used a very light brush stroke with Floquil Reefer White (per George's instructions). Pretty happy with the results. Already looks weathered. I also added a temp divider to the last pocket to give me a total of ten pockets. Don't know why that bothered me so much (built 9 pockets instead of 10), but it did.
Off to a good start. Best wishes on your bold undertaking. I still haven't taken the plunge into a FSM or SRMW kit.
Looks great so far!
John
Quote from: Cuse on March 27, 2015, 06:05:06 AM
Off to a good start. Best wishes on your bold undertaking. I still haven't taken the plunge into a FSM or SRMW kit.
Looks great so far!
John
No time like the present. Take the plunge. There's a lot of talented folks here that are more than willing to help.
Hi UP Fan:
Nice sofar. I'll be following along.
Karl
Looking great so far, Bob. I like that painting jig. I'm "borrowing" that idea. :D
Jeff
Hi UP Fan,
Great start. As Tom mentioned I built this one for one for him. I really enjoyed putting it together. I laid it out the way George recommends in the templates. I like that it has so many different types of materials for the walls and roofing. It adds a lot of interest to the finished model. I'll be following along and enjoying your build. :D
Quote from: postalkarl on March 30, 2015, 09:40:08 AM
Hi UP Fan:
Nice sofar. I'll be following along.
Karl
Thanks, Karl. I've followed your builds since Joining the forum. Great work.
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 30, 2015, 12:43:45 PM
Hi UP Fan,
Great start. As Tom mentioned I built this one for one for him. I really enjoyed putting it together. I laid it out the way George recommends in the templates. I like that it has so many different types of materials for the walls and roofing. It adds a lot of interest to the finished model. I'll be following along and enjoying your build. :D
Thank you Bob (great name BTW :) ) The FSM kits are definitely a lot of fun and the details are amazing. Did you do a build thread when you built this kit for Tom? I have a lot of builds 'bookmarked' to follow as tutorials. Learn from the best, I always say.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 30, 2015, 11:58:28 AM
Looking great so far, Bob. I like that painting jig. I'm "borrowing" that idea. :D
Jeff
Please feel free to "borrow" the idea. Seems I remember "borrowing" it from a ship building web site I frequent. That's why we're on these forums to borrow and share ideas and the love of the craft.
Quote from: UP Fan on March 30, 2015, 02:48:25 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on March 30, 2015, 12:43:45 PM
Hi UP Fan,
Great start. As Tom mentioned I built this one for one for him. I really enjoyed putting it together. I laid it out the way George recommends in the templates. I like that it has so many different types of materials for the walls and roofing. It adds a lot of interest to the finished model. I'll be following along and enjoying your build. :D
Thank you Bob (great name BTW :) ) The FSM kits are definitely a lot of fun and the details are amazing. Did you do a build thread when you built this kit for Tom? I have a lot of builds 'bookmarked' to follow as tutorials. Learn from the best, I always say.
Bob - I did do a build thread on the old Model Railroad Forums site but I can't find it. I guess it got purged. :(
I have a small (and I mean small) problem. I'm at the stage where I mounting windows and warehouse doors. As you can see from the pic below, the shutters are extremely small for the opening. And George's instructions say to mount them in the open position. Anyone have any suggestions on how I should go about mounting the shutters? All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Quote from: UP Fan on March 31, 2015, 03:43:21 PM
I have a small (and I mean small) problem. I'm at the stage where I mounting windows and warehouse doors. As you can see from the pic below, the shutters are extremely small for the opening. And George's instructions say to mount them in the open position. Anyone have any suggestions on how I should go about mounting the shutters? All suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I dug thru the photo's I took during my build and only found one that included that portion of the rear wall. I wonder if you have the right part for that opening. The one you show looks like it may be a roof hatch that goes on the butcher shop. The one I used seems to have fit the opening much better.
Bob, that's what I would have expected the shutter to look like. Anyway, I scratched built a couple from some 1/32" scrap and added some black craft paper for 'hinges'. Once they are weathered, they'll do nicely.
Got to work on Butchers Way a little more. Show Car season is starting soon and it's time to share my tasks between modeling and getting my car ready. Anyway here's some progress pics. I'm showing my 'nail hole tool' in the first pic. The second pic has an arrow pointing to the excess paint on the inside of a window hole that has to be scraped away to make window fit properly. Picture three shows the casting after priming and weathering with dark A/I solution. The last pic shows the frames I built around the heavier warehouse-type doors rather than using epoxy. I use Aleene's Fast Grab glue avail at Hobby Lobby. I ran a bead of glue around the framing , then installed the doors.
A couple more pics of progress on Butchers Way. I really enjoying this FSM kit.
I finally reached the assembly phase of the build. Yippee! My question is should I paint the interior walls with a flat black or brown? I've seen other builds where the builders paint the interior walls. Is this for lighting purposes? Thanks for your help.
Quote from: UP Fan on April 03, 2015, 01:27:30 PM
I finally reached the assembly phase of the build. Yippee! My question is should I paint the interior walls with a flat black or brown? I've seen other builds where the builders paint the interior walls. Is this for lighting purposes? Thanks for your help.
Bob,
I've gotten in the habit of painting the interior walls flat black to prevent the building from 'glowing' if I decide to install lighting in it. Tom (ACL1504) taught me that trick. :D The only exception I'd make to that rule on this build is the interior walls that are visible from the front (where the carcasses are hanging inside the open doors). I don't recall how I handled that for the interior of there.
Thanks for the tip, Bob. Appreciate it. Know what you mean about the 'glow'. I have a couple of plastic structures that have that overall pumpkin glow to them.
Bob B.,
The interior walls where the meat hangs is simulated board by board. The walls are just visible from the front. I have pictures of Reading Bob's build and I'll post them here as soon as I get them loaded, cropped and uploaded to the forum.
Tom ;D
Here are a few of Reading Bob's build on Wolcott's Meats. I redid the sign for Butts Meat Co.. A little pun here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145135.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145210.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145225.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145240.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145240.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145257.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145257.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145309.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145309.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145506.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030415145506.jpeg)
Holy Cow (sorry for the pun) Tom, thank you for the pictures. Great build. These pics will make for a great reference. I like the board-by-board interior of the front building. Nice detail addition. Tom, did you do a build thread for this build?
It's really satisfying to see this build coming together. Thanks to everyone here on the forum for your expert advice and comments. I painted the interior walls a dark brown to accommodate any future lighting. I very happy with the progress so far. That George sure knows how to put a kit together.
Bob, I will be watching you...what you have done pretty cool and can't wait until the next set of photos.
Marty
Quote from: UP Fan on April 03, 2015, 04:19:00 PM
Holy Cow (sorry for the pun) Tom, thank you for the pictures. Great build. These pics will make for a great reference. I like the board-by-board interior of the front building. Nice detail addition. Tom, did you do a build thread for this build?
Reading Bob did this build and the thread on the old forum, www.kitforums.com (http://www.kitforums.com). Like Bob, I couldn't find it either. :'( :'(
If you need any other photos of the build let me know. I'd be happy to add them.
Tom ;D
Thank you Tom. You have been very helpful. The pictures you posted here will be of great assistance. Loved the cows by the way.
Had to wait a few minutes to post these progress pictures. It took a little time to get my eyes uncrossed after cutting all the rafters for the ventilator roof and the slaughter house roof. That must have been one of those tasks that George called 'tedious' in the instructions. The two containers are marked "vent roof raft." and " main roof raft." so I don't get them mixed up. Next challenge will be mounting all those little buggers on their respective roofs. No coffee for me that day. The other two pics show the cardboard roofs mounted and the details mounted in the large opening to give the area behind the front shed some interest.
ARGH!!!! Just realized I should have weathered the rafter strips before I cut them into such nice little pieces. :-\ Chalk it up to not reading the instructions thoroughly. "Ya lives and ya learns"
We learn by living ..... I learn by reading and seeing the work from all you wonderful craftsmen(women).
Quote from: Donato on April 05, 2015, 05:41:55 PM
We learn by living ..... I learn by reading and seeing the work from all you wonderful craftsmen(women).
Thank you for the kind words. I will make my share of mistakes, but I hope I learn from them and move on.
Finished the rafters on the slaughter house roof. And stained/weathered the wood strips to start the loading dock. I hope that the weathering step will hide some of the shiny metal showing on the roof panels. I'd appreciate any advice from the pros on this step. I have several colors of Bragdon weathering chalks but should I apply a base coat of rust? I have some Model Master rust acrylic to add as a base coat before applying the weathering chalks. At least that's my plan. As I said before, any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm in virgin territory here. :-\
Real red letter day, I finished the painting and weathering of the roof panels and glued the structure to it's diorama board. Now I just have to make more room on the work bench to continue the build. :-\ The roof was weathered with a combination of Bragdon chalks; dark rust, light rust, grey and black. I pushed the black chalk against the ends of the panels to try and simulate where water would accumulate and the rust would be more intense. I'm pretty happy with the results, but wouldn't mind some critique on the weathering job to improve the results. This is my first weathering job and I definitely want to learn and improve. The blue on top of the structure is filled with 3 pounds of rice. I picked up 4 or 5 of these bags at a train show and they come in handy for weighting irregular shapes like a roof.
The weathering, well actually everything, looks good to me. It is subtle and not overdone. I like it that way.
Quote from: Donato on April 12, 2015, 05:51:43 PM
The weathering, well actually everything, looks good to me. It is subtle and not overdone. I like it that way.
Thank you, Donato. This is my first Fine scale Miniatures kit and I can use all the help (and encouragement) I can get.
Moving right along with the build. A few more progress pics. Added the dirt under the loading dock and finished the dock. Added the outside shed and temporarily added the cardboard roof. Still need to add the carcass rod (or wood beam, not sure which yet) the work table and mess up the floor in front of the work bench before finishing the roof.
Adding more details to the slaughter house. Finished the first ramp and adding waste barrels. These details sure take a lot of time. Particularly when you have to paint the people also. :P I hope to move on to the other buildings soon. Patience Bob, patience.
Looking good Bob!
Why am I hungry all of a sudden? ::)
Quote from: coors2u on May 02, 2015, 07:25:17 AM
Looking good Bob!
Thanks Dustin. And thank you for looking in on the build.
Quote from: Donato on May 02, 2015, 06:41:23 PM
Why am I hungry all of a sudden? ::)
Sounds like a great idea. Can't get steaks any fresher than here.
Started to add the cattle pens and rail side ramp. I A/I'd the strips for the stock pens in a plastic freezer bag and let them dry before dry brushing with Floquil Reefer White. I made copies of the fencing templates and mounted them to 1/4" masonite so as to spare the original templates. The strips at the bottom of the templates are to keep every thing straight. Made them out of left over 3/16" lumber from the scrap box. They were tacked to the templates with Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue. I love that stuff - it grabs and holds quickly, but gives you some 'wiggle time'. Another land mark step in construction was putting up the first piece of fencing for the stock pens. Sure enjoying this build.
Bob
The build is looking great. It is really nice to see another yellow box come of the shelf and get built. I'm enjoying your thread.
Thank you very much, John. I'm learning a lot by reading the other builds, both structure and railroad, posted here by you and the other fine builders.
Nice progress. Some day I will do a Yellow Bix kit; I'm interested.
Marty
Quote from: martin.ojaste on May 05, 2015, 10:26:13 PM
Nice progress. Some day I will do a Yellow Bix kit; I'm interested.
Marty
Marty, me thinks you are being too humble. From what I've seen of your Sierra West Shipyard build and others on other forums, you are ever so ready for a "yellow box". I'm striving to be as good as you one day.
I wanted to add a quick tip here for getting square ends cut on all these fence posts and fence rails. One way, for sure, is with a chopper, I II or III. But if you only have one or two to cut, here's a little trick I picked up on a ship building forum. Hold your xacto chisel where you want to make your cut. Then look into the chisel blade and line up the piece being cut until you have a perfect reflection in the blade. The picture shows an example of what this long winded explanation was trying to say. The piece in the picture is a fence post and as you can see, it's not quite there as far as being a perfect reflection of itself. A little movement of the blade to the left should give me a parallel reflection and a straight cut. Remember to check the vertical alignment also to prevent a sloped cut. Hope this helps.
Neat tip on cutting square ends Bob B. Thanks!
Things are coming along quite nicely. I enjoyed building the pens and they add so much character to the who scene. Keep up the great work!
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 06, 2015, 07:28:41 AM
Neat tip on cutting square ends Bob B. Thanks!
Things are coming along quite nicely. I enjoyed building the pens and they add so much character to the who scene. Keep up the great work!
Thank you Bob. And you are so right about the build coming to life with the addition of the holding pens. Adds a whole new dimension to up until now was just another line side building.
Here's another tip I 'borrowed' from ship building forums. Lego blocks used to square up bulkheads, here it works great to square up structure walls or the occasional stock pen fences.
Always nice to reach a mile stone with a craftsman kit. The cattle are in their pens! All that's left is to finish is the loading platform , then add the details like the watering tubs, the hay bales, some dirt and it's on to the other structures. Can't wait until I can place the diorama on the layout. It will have a place just past the icing platform. Should make for some interesting switching opportunities.
Nice job on the fencing, Bob.
Jeff
Thank you, Jeff. I really enjoyed this portion of the build and the kit supplied templates made the task fairly easy. The fencing added a lot of character to the build.
Bob,
Nice tip using the Lego blocks to square things up.
Your FSM build is coming along well.
Can't wait for the grandson to come over soon with his toys.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 10, 2015, 11:15:27 PM
Bob,
Nice tip using the Lego blocks to square things up.
Your FSM build is coming along well.
Can't wait for the grandson to come over soon with his toys.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the kudos on the build. Maybe you can trade something to the grandson for the legos. Depending how old he is, maybe a trip to the ice cream store. ;)
Added "soil" (dirt sifted from my back yard) to the diorama and placed the water tower. Also replaced the code 100 track for Peco code 83. Much happier with the size. Started experimenting with the stucco finish for the Butcher's Shop. Such a small package of the stucco powder, did anyone have to order more to finish all the walls? If so, where did you purchase the powder?
Sweet !!!!
Yes! I'm lovin it!
Marty
Donato, Marty, thanks guys for the strokes on my build. Much appreciated.
Is the powder Durham's Water Putty? I think that's what Mr. Sellios uses for Stucco.
Jeff
Looks great, Bob. You are lucky. You can use dirt from your backyard. No such luck here where I live. I have to buy it.
I agree with Jeff on Water Putty. I wonder if one wall can be done with putty from the kit and another with fresh and have same result. Or does that stuff change its properties over time?
Vilius
Quote from: TheUkranian on May 14, 2015, 08:08:20 AM
Looks great, Bob. You are lucky. You can use dirt from your backyard. No such luck here where I live. I have to buy it.
I agree with Jeff on Water Putty. I wonder if one wall can be done with putty from the kit and another with fresh and have same result. Or does that stuff change its properties over time?
Vilius
I'm pretty sure the putty remains very consistent regardless of old/new and you wouldn't notice any difference at all. Moisture would affect it if it were not stored properly but if it did affect it you'd probably find out right away that you wouldn't be able to use it. It wouldn't be a powder anymore.
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 14, 2015, 08:21:44 AM
Quote from: TheUkranian on May 14, 2015, 08:08:20 AM
Looks great, Bob. You are lucky. You can use dirt from your backyard. No such luck here where I live. I have to buy it.
I agree with Jeff on Water Putty. I wonder if one wall can be done with putty from the kit and another with fresh and have same result. Or does that stuff change its properties over time?
Vilius
I'm pretty sure the putty remains very consistent regardless of old/new and you wouldn't notice any difference at all. Moisture would affect it if it were not stored properly but if it did affect it you'd probably find out right away that you wouldn't be able to use it. It wouldn't be a powder anymore.
Thanks for the input to Vilius' question. Never thought about the consistency factor.
Just a couple of pics of the stucco process. Actually, I like the way the stucco has turned out. I'll let the pieces cure over night and clean them up and weather them using A/I tomorrow before I start adding the windows, doors and details. The process sure trashed a paint brush, though. I might be able to clean it up a little and use it for any future stucco finishes on structures.
Bob,
Perhaps I should have mentioned this earlier but since you like the result then no harm has been done ;D
While building Houligan's Alley I found that fat round paintbrush worked for me best. I am not exactly sure but I think they call them stencil brushes. Also next time I do stucco I will glue the walls together before application of DAP. I found it to be very difficult to achieve matching look of the edges.
Vilius
Quote from: TheUkranian on May 15, 2015, 03:52:22 PM
Bob,
Perhaps I should have mentioned this earlier but since you like the result then no harm has been done ;D
While building Houligan's Alley I found that fat round paintbrush worked for me best. I am not exactly sure but I think they call them stencil brushes. Also next time I do stucco I will glue the walls together before application of DAP. I found it to be very difficult to achieve matching look of the edges.
VIlius
Thanks for the brush tip and assembling the walls prior to stucco application. I have two or three brushes that fit your stencil brush description. Always learning here on the forum.
A make-up brush is a good alternative to a stencil brush for this application, if you can't find the stencil brush.
dave
Thanks Dave. Nice to have options. Now, I'll just have to get a girl friend so I can "borrow" her makeup brush, ::)
Quote from: UP Fan on May 15, 2015, 07:40:40 PM
Thanks Dave. Nice to have options. Now, I'll just have to get a girl friend so I can "borrow" her makeup brush, ::)
After you're done with that brush, she'll probably be an
ex-girlfriend...
dave
Quote from: deemery on May 15, 2015, 05:33:22 PM
A make-up brush is a good alternative to a stencil brush for this application, if you can't find the stencil brush.
dave
You're just pushin' that line for a divorce, ain't 'cha?
I wouldn't wanna be there for the next time she puts her make-up on!!!
Bob,
Your build is coming along really well. After you finish the butcher shop structure and add it to the diorama, can I order some steaks ?
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 16, 2015, 02:16:46 PM
Bob,
Your build is coming along really well. After you finish the butcher shop structure and add it to the diorama, can I order some steaks ?
Tom
Thank you Tom. And you can have your steaks done any way you like. We aim to please.
Once I'd glued the shingles on the front wall of the Butcher's Shop, I did not like the green of the Floquil Aged Concrete, so I repainted the wall surfaces with Tamiya XF-59, Desert Yellow. Once it was dry, I sanded the surface ever so lightly with a number 220 sand paper just to highlight the stucco (see last picture). The picture is yellower than it actually is. It's more of a sand color which is what I was after. Might do a coat of light A/I to tone it down either further. Comments?
It's finally starting to look like a diorama. Working on the butcher shop and have it about 80% complete. Still have a few details to add i.e. the roof on each level, the hoists, the rain barrel platform, the chimney, etc, etc, etc. :-\ Okay, more like 70%. Having a blast with the entire kit. Also included some shots of the layout. Long way to go on that. Thinking I want to restart the layout using the L-girder method. Right now I'm using a modular system; 2' x 4' blue foam in a 1" x 4" frame. Very, very flat and very little opportunity for elevated track.
Wow Bob , all I can say is that you've really got your meat cut out ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on May 26, 2015, 05:23:44 PM
Wow Bob , all I can say is that you've really got your meat cut out ;)
Let's get to the meat of the matter ... this guy is good!!!
Quote from: Janbouli on May 26, 2015, 05:23:44 PM
Wow Bob , all I can say is that you've really got your meat cut out ;)
I hear ya. Not quite sure where to start on the layout. Guess I'll just have to keep building FSM and Sierra kits til I figure it out. Oh darn. ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 26, 2015, 08:11:23 PM
Quote from: Janbouli on May 26, 2015, 05:23:44 PM
Wow Bob , all I can say is that you've really got your meat cut out ;)
Let's get to the meat of the matter ... this guy is good!!!
Donato, you are too kind. But from what I've seen, I can learn a thing or two from you and the others here on the forum. Thanks for looking in on Butchers Way.
Tackling the roof/shingles on the Butcher Shop. The shingle strips were pretty straight forward, thanks to the pre-drawn lines on the cardboard roof, spread white Elmer's glue with a 1/4" brush and line up the strips. The other adjustments to be made were re-shaping the angles on the front and back walls of the 2nd floor to accommodate the shingles once they had been added to the roof. I then glued the strips for the seams of the roof, taping two steel weights together to apply pressure evenly over the roof peak. The strips on the other seams of the roof were held in place by hand until the glue took hold. I use "Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue". Great stuff for the entire build. With the exception of gluing the stock pens to the diorama board. There I used wood glue.
You're doing a great job!
HELP!. I'm having one heck of a time getting the water in the watering tubs to not shrink so much and leave a hole in the water. I'm using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water with just a hint of brown acrylic mixed in. This is the second attempt with the same results. First try did the same thing, so I dug out the "water" and repoured. This time I did two shallow pours. Each pour shrinks and leaves a hole in the water.
Try, mod podge,;or 5-minute epxoy diluted with de-natured alcohol ; or matte medium; or just white glue. I assume you are tinting it and/painting the bottom a darker color?
Marty
Quote from: martin.ojaste on June 09, 2015, 11:03:41 PM
Try, mod podge,;or 5-minute epxoy diluted with de-natured alcohol ; or matte medium; or just white glue. I assume you are tinting it and/painting the bottom a darker color?
Marty
Thanks Marty. All very good suggestions. I'll let you know which works best. And yes, I will be tinting the solution (whichever one I choose) with a little brown just to make the water look well used. :-) And, painting the bottoms a dark rust color.
Hi Bob B:
Looks really great sofar.
Karl
kARL
Thank you, Karl, for the compliment. Coming from a a builder I admire, it's very encouraging.
I've added more detail to the Butcher Shop - tar paper roof, wood strips over tar paper seams, old tire for weight, ladders , and started working on laying more dirt in the shed area. Off line I'm working on "weathering/rusting" a 1928 Ford pickup from Jordan to go in the shed. The black and white picture was thrown in as I play with the new camera.
Hi Bob:
Very nicely done sofar.
Karl
Nice work! I did this as a diorama and won First Prize, but the judges critiqued mine to say that a slaughter house would have been bidder that what George's kit had. hmm... not too sure. They also said mine needed more spikes in my rails, and I could have connected the telephone wires....Keep up the good work..
Thanks for the positive thoughts. I thought the judges judged the kit and the craftsmanship building the kit, not what it should look like. Oh well, different shows, different judging criteria. Congrats on the first place finish.
Bob....
The judging conversation is an interesting one. As An AP judge and my reading of the ruberics, a judge is charged to judge what is presented by the modeler.
I'm not clear if you were part of a contest judging or an AP judging as they are not at all alike.
One of the mandatory parts of ANY judging is that the modeler gets some feed back as to why the model might have been scored as it did with the logic that, "how can a modeler get better if he is not told anything?" With that there may be some comments on how to improve your score.. Like the spike count. But saying that the structure or scene is not prototypical is a stretch. That would only be acceptable if the modeler opened himself to no prototype at all and put in his entry data "conforms to prototype practice". Then the judge may be allowed to enter his own experience of what a packing house might have looked like. Even this is a stretch as there is s prototype for EVERYTHING.
The only time I ever added my own thinking on a model was on the brake rigging of a freight car that had no under car photo and the modeler used a Westinghouse KC brake rigging appropriate for the period of the car. I gave him full points for that as he had done it perfectly.
What I'm back to here is that I judged what was in front of me rather than try to argue that some part might be wrong because with th amount of age and weathering that the brakes should have been updated to a later rule practice. That is not for me to say.
Does any of this make sense????
Bob... Don't let one contest or judge sour you. Make it better and take your model up to the next level, a region or like that. Then show 'em what you are made of.
I'm reminded of a humorous Latin extraction phrase...
Illegitimi non carburundum.
See ya
Bob
Great insight into judging, Bob. Thank you for clearing the fog. From some of the work I've seen here and on other craftsman forums, judging has to be one of the most thankless jobs in modeling. My hat's off to you for taking on such a daunting task.
Bob.....
I don't see it as thankless. I get to see up close some very good models and visit the work of some very creative modelers.
The piece that goes unanswered is whether they see me as consistent and fair.
The tough part is judging locally and knowing the modeler. I must always remember to judge the model and not the builder. "Oh! He cold have done better on this part right here. I know he can."
See ya
Bob