Well, I'm off on another build adventure.
I'm going to start, actually, I've already started on the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154223.jpeg)
Continued later this evening.
Looking forward to it!
I'm really looking forward to this one. I remember seeing the display model when it was first released at the expo. The lighting of the dock was especially effective...hope you're considering that effect as it suits this kit particularly well.
John
I'm not a fanatic of this kit, but I will follow for sure your effort and progress on it.
Eric QUébec city
Quote from: Dave K. on May 02, 2015, 03:56:25 PM
Looking forward to it!
Dave,
Thanks for checking in. This will be fun and I'm looking forward to getting into the meat of the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on May 02, 2015, 05:26:11 PM
I'm really looking forward to this one. I remember seeing the display model when it was first released at the expo. The lighting of the dock was especially effective...hope you're considering that effect as it suits this kit particularly well.
John
Butty John,
Thanks for following me on this one. I do plan on lighting this one as you mentioined. In fact Slim, is sending me the lighting kit for Delwins. I believe the lighting kit will be very effective in thelocation I have for the kit.
Tom ;D
Quote from: EricQuebec on May 02, 2015, 05:48:41 PM
I'm not a fanatic of this kit, but I will follow for sure your effort and progress on it.
Eric QUébec city
Eric,
Fanatic or not, thanks for following along. When this kit was first released I wasn't convinced I had to have one. But with the rebuild of the layout, I found I had the room and perfect spot for it.
I was really surprised to find out from Dario Le Donne, owner of Rail Scale Miniatures, the kit was still available. It will be one of the first kits if not the first structure seen when entering the room.
Tom ;D
The kit has a 78 page instruction book with a great many photos and illustrations. There are 23 template cars with a total of 40 diagrams/figures of the build.
In addition there are 5 template roof and roof related cards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154241.jpeg)
If you choose to light this kit with LED's, and I do, there is a schematic of the lighting and wire locations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154255.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154255.jpeg)
The green schematic above is actually a photo of the circuit board for lighting the kit.
Jackpot!! Tom, this should be fun to follow along with you building this. I have been waiting for you to dive into this one.
Quote from: coors2u on May 02, 2015, 07:34:39 PM
Jackpot!! Tom, this should be fun to follow along with you building this. I have been waiting for you to dive into this one.
Dustin,
The Jackpot hit today. I'm very excited about building this kit. I appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Here we have the walls in the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154322.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154322.jpeg)
We have three boats, windows and doors and the Campbell shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154308.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154308.jpeg)
A box of metal casting, EZ Line from Berkshire Junction and signs in 6 different color variations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515194329.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515194329.jpeg)
And last but not least we have the rest of the kit. Actually this is a picture of all the docks in kit form. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154349.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020515154349.jpeg)
And the fun begins.....I'll be following along Tom! 8)
I'll be following along as well. This is going to be a major focal point of the layout. Should be really cool when it's all lit up. 8)
Tom,
This is one of my favorites from Dario. Unfortunately, I could not find a place on the layout for it. And believe me, I looked. With the bridge in the background, that structure will look marvelous. I'll be following to see what I missed. Keep up the great work.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 03, 2015, 10:00:26 AM
And the fun begins.....I'll be following along Tom! 8)
Greg,
Thanks, this will be a fun build for sure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 03, 2015, 10:35:42 AM
I'll be following along as well. This is going to be a major focal point of the layout. Should be really cool when it's all lit up. 8)
Bob,
This will be the first structure anyone sees as they enter the room. I may have to call upon you for some LED electrical advise when the times comes. However, I plan on doing the LED installs as this is the only way to learn.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on May 03, 2015, 01:30:38 PM
Tom,
This is one of my favorites from Dario. Unfortunately, I could not find a place on the layout for it. And believe me, I looked. With the bridge in the background, that structure will look marvelous. I'll be following to see what I missed. Keep up the great work.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Good afternoon from the Sunshine State. This wasn't on my radar when it first came out but I never forgot how it looked in the advertisement. When I decided to redo the layout this kit immediately came to mind. Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
I built the base for the kit and many of you may have seen it on my layout thread. The instructions call for the base to be from a piece of 3/4" plywood. A section of 5/8" plywood on top of that followed by a 1/2" piece of plywood. That is one heavy diorama base. The base figure diagram is shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515161636.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515161636.jpeg)
Well, the scan didn't come out to clear but you can get the idea.
Continued in a few.
I chose to build the base out of different material. My base is a 1/2" piece of Gator Board using the same 24" X 28" base size. I then glued 1" blue foam and topped that with 2 pieces of 1/8" Masonite. On the bottom portion I only used 1 piece of 1/8" masonite.
My is much less heavy and portable yet very sturdy. The diorama base is shown in place below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415150128.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415150128.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415151108.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415151108.jpeg)
As mentioned, I made it portable so I can carry it to the workbench or a work area as needed. When finished I can secure it to the layout prior to adding the water.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415150354.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090415150354.jpeg)
Count me in for following this build. Particularly when you get to the part where you pour the water. I have a Sierra West Shipyard at Foss' Landing and I've never modeled a large expanse of water.
I'm following along as well Tom. Looking forward to one more learning opportunity.
Quote from: UP Fan on May 03, 2015, 04:56:45 PM
Count me in for following this build. Particularly when you get to the part where you pour the water. I have a Sierra West Shipyard at Foss' Landing and I've never modeled a large expanse of water.
Bob,
Thanks for following along. It will be some time prior to the water flowing under the docks. But I'll eventually get there.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 03, 2015, 05:46:31 PM
I'm following along as well Tom. Looking forward to one more learning opportunity.
Donato,
Thank you also for following along. I sure hope I don't dissappoint you or lead you wrong. I'll attempt to explain every step I do. Well, maybe at least a great majority of what I'll be doing on the build.
Tom ;D
I'll be starting off with the main boat storage building. The instructions call for two smaller pieces to be glued to the two larger pieces. These are the end walls by the way. Be sure you "mate" them up correctly. In the photo below you can see the side end walls just don't fit on either side. One is shorter and the other one is longer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180012.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180012.jpeg)
If you switch the two smaller pieces and fit them to the wall sections, you will have a perfect fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180027.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180027.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The same is true with the side walls as well. Be sure you get them in the correct position. If not, you will end up with one end of the side wall with the two windows upside down as seen below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180040.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180040.jpeg)
The two smaller side walls go on the end where you have all of the windows off the bottom of the side walls. Refer to the photo below for the proper look of the side walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515180052.jpeg)
To prevent any mistakes when the glue starts flying I marked the backs of each wall with A, B, C and D.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515182322.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515182322.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515182336.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030515182336.jpeg)
Well, obviously I did the "B" thing twice but at least they are on different shaped walls. Oh Boy! :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ These senior moments are all to often to suit me. :'( :'( :'( :'(
Tom 8) Arrow left here, I don't know this guy! :o
.... an extra "B" or extra "S" ain't a bad thang, besides who's counting .... we are looking! ;)
Grest start. Looks like Dario really put some serious time into that manual and the templates. One sign of a first-rate kit!
Quote from: Donato on May 03, 2015, 07:28:19 PM
.... an extra "B" or extra "S" ain't a bad thang, besides who's counting .... we are looking! ;)
Almost old age is a wondrous thing.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on May 03, 2015, 08:12:17 PM
Grest start. Looks like Dario really put some serious time into that manual and the templates. One sign of a first-rate kit!
Dave,
I agree, the instructions are very detailed as are the templates. It is all very well done. Thanks for the comment.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Looks like fun. Have at it.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 07, 2015, 12:22:37 PM
Hi Tom:
Looks like fun. Have at it.
Karl
Karl,
This is indeed a fun build. I'm fixing to add to the thread in a few minutes. Thanks for looking in.
Tom ;D
Belive it or not I've read the instructions over at least four times and many sections more than that. In doing this I realized there are a few areas where a thread will help explain some of the issues. Yes, most issues are only ones that bother me but I want ya'll to know where they are.
By no means am I saying or even inferring that Dario Le Donne, owner of Rail Scale Miniatures, has issues with the kit. This kit is very well done and the instructions are clear and unambigious. If you build this kit and change absolutely nothing, you will have a fantastic looking structure.
There are perhaps some areas where I can let you know how and what I do to get the results I'm after. These are just little quirks of mine.
Continued in a few.
Prior to gluing the smaller pieces to the larger ones, I decided to check them for fit. I found that the wood fuzz on the edges of the pieces kept them from fitting together tightly. In the photo below you can see a slight gap between the two pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162504.jpeg)
To remove the fuzz, I carefully sanded the edges of each piece with 120 fine grit sand paper. This sand paper is for fine wood finishing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162519.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see the two pieces fit much better. However, I have the wrong edge of the smaller piece next to the larger one. The fit is the same either way. No need to take another photo for this. God, I'm really starting to get very annoyed with these senior moments. :'( :'( :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162532.jpeg)
Continued in a few if I don't forget where I am.
The instructions call for you to carefully edge glue the smaller sides to the larger sides. In edge gluing any two pieces of stripwood, board and batton, etc. you run the risk on getting to much glue on the pieces and that extra glue oozes out onto the unpainted wood.
It looks really bad when you want to add A&I or a light paint wash to these areas and the dried glue sticks out like a sore thumb or better yet a neon sign saying, "Look here, to much glue"!
Here is what I did to prevent this from happening. I used a toothpick and applied a very small amount of glue to the top, center and bottom of one of the pieces. The glue was applied to the back side of the edge. I then pushed them together and placed a weight on the pieces until the glue dried.
Continued in a few.
Fast forward and the bracing was applied per the instructions. In the two photos below you can see a red ink line on the end and side walls. This red ink line is where the two pieces were "spot" glued prior to adding the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162548.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162605.jpeg)
The reason I spot glued the two pieces together was because I knew I could apply more glue to this area, the back side, and use the vertical bracing to help glue/hold the pieces together.
Continued in a few.
On the board and batton building there are no corner posts. The four walls fit together and are glued to each other. That means the edges of the walls are to be painted or stained. The laser cutting leaves the edges burnt and this burnt area doesn't take paint or stain very well. I held the walls and carefully sanded the burnt edge. In the photo below, you can see the bottom one is sanded and the top one still shows the laser burn.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162621.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162621.jpeg)
I sanded all the end edges so the paint will look the same on all corners.
Continued in a few.
Once all the 1/8" bracing was applied and the glue dry the walls were turned over. I noticed the 1/8" bracing could be seen from the front. I'm sure the windows will cover the bracing but I don't like the fact it shows now. This is one of those areas/issues I was talking about.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162635.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162635.jpeg)
I used the #17 Xactro chisel blade and cut the stripwood out of the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162652.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162652.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here is how the backside looked prior to the stripwood being removed from the window area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162715.jpeg)
Here is the after look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162730.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162748.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080515162805.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 08, 2015, 04:44:55 PM
Belive it or not I've read the instructions over at least four times and many sections more than that. In doing this I realized there are a few areas where a thread will help explain some of the issues. Yes, most issues are only ones that bother me but I want ya'll to know where they are.
By no means am I saying or even inferring that Dario Le Donne, owner of Rail Scale Miniatures, has issues with the kit. This kit is very well done and the instructions are clear and unambigious. If you build this kit and change absolutely nothing, you will have a fantastic looking structure.
There are perhaps some areas where I can let you know how and what I do to get the results I'm after. These are just little quirks of mine.
Continued in a few.
Are we getting a little quirky in our retirement years? ;)
Great looking build Tom. I'm following along.
Nice progress, can't wait to see more.
Eric Québec city
Very good progress on a kit I really like. I'll surely be following along on your build.
I've built this kit. It was a blast. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this......
Brad
Seems to me that this building is lacking something Tom. Maybe if you added a "Diet Pepsi" sign or two that would do it!
;D ;D :o
Are we getting a little quirky in our retirement years? ;)
Greg,
Quirky? Perhaps, more like unconventional at the very least.
Tom 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on May 10, 2015, 08:26:16 AM
Great looking build Tom. I'm following along.
John,
Thanks, much apprecited. I haven't done much on it lately.
Tom ;D
Quote from: EricQuebec on May 10, 2015, 04:49:43 PM
Nice progress, can't wait to see more.
Eric Québec city
Eric,
Thanks for following along. I've been a bit lazy on the build the past week.
Tom 8)
Quote from: UP Fan on May 11, 2015, 12:41:49 AM
Very good progress on a kit I really like. I'll surely be following along on your build.
Bob,
I appreciate you checking in and following along on the build. I hope to get back to it in a few days.
Tom 8)
Quote from: chooch41 on May 12, 2015, 06:42:10 PM
I've built this kit. It was a blast. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this......
Brad
Brad,
Thanks for following along. I'm not going to change very much if any on the kit. Please feel free to post any pictures of your build here.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bruce.oberleitner on May 13, 2015, 12:41:06 AM
Seems to me that this building is lacking something Tom. Maybe if you added a "Diet Pepsi" sign or two that would do it!
;D ;D :o
Cousin Brucie,
Not to worry, I'm sure I have a DP sign around that will fit nicely on one of the buildings.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 14, 2015, 11:11:38 AM
Are we getting a little quirky in our retirement years? ;)
Greg,
Quirky? Perhaps, more like unconventional at the very least.
Tom 8)
Works for me..... ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 14, 2015, 11:21:40 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 14, 2015, 11:11:38 AM
Are we getting a little quirky in our retirement years? ;)
Greg,
Quirky? Perhaps, more like unconventional at the very least.
Tom 8)
Works for me..... ;D
Lately I've found that "quirkiness" is about the only thing that is working the way it should. Everything else reminds me that I'm not getting any younger, especially all the myriad pains and aches I put up with every day.
Just saying! :-\
Quote from: Donato on May 14, 2015, 02:12:02 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 14, 2015, 11:21:40 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 14, 2015, 11:11:38 AM
Are we getting a little quirky in our retirement years? ;)
Greg,
Quirky? Perhaps, more like unconventional at the very least.
Tom 8)
Works for me..... ;D
Lately I've found that "quirkiness" is about the only thing that is working the way it should. Everything else reminds me that I'm not getting any younger, especially all the myriad pains and aches I put up with every day.
Just saying! :-\
Hi Donato.....as the fearless leader of the SBG (Saturday Butty Group), it incumbent upon Tom to have that extra measure of "quirkiness".
Kind of like a requirement for the job. ;D
Okay, now that we've had some fun with all the quirkiness, I'll get back to the build.
I didn't take alot of pictures of this next step but I believe you'll get the idea. Those of you that follow my threads know I always test fit the windows and doors in the openings prior to any staining or painting. This build is no exception to that rule.
The windows fit into the opening fine but not flush on the walls. The walls are board and batton so the battons needed to be trimmed so the windows would fit flat/flush against the wall.
In the next picture you can see how the windows fit before and after. The window on the left fits flat/flush on the wall while the one on the right sits on top of the battons.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160515190729.jpeg)
I simply placed the windows in the opening and used a #17 Xacto chisel blade to mark and then remove the battons. Once the battons were marked, they "popped" off with no problem.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160515190745.jpeg)
I filed all the flash off the casting and set them aside to be painted. This process took me about two hours. Many of the casting were small and very fragile. Patience is the word for preparing these for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160515190714.jpeg)
Notice the casting of the birds, ducks or pigeons (I don't know what they are) in the upper right of the photo above?
Well, I'm still working on them. I cut a piece of flash off and it was the head of one of the fowls, not flash.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 16, 2015, 07:20:39 PM
Well, I'm still working on them. I cut a piece of flash off and it was the head of one of the fowls, not flash.
Beware, ISIS Tommy is in the country!!
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 16, 2015, 07:20:39 PM
I filed all the flash off the casting and set them aside to be painted. This process took me about two hours. Many of the casting were small and very fragile. Patience is the word for preparing these for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160515190714.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160515190714.jpeg)
Notice the casting of the birds, ducks or pigeons (I don't know what they are) in the upper right of the photo above?
Well, I'm still working on them. I cut a piece of flash off and it was the head of one of the fowls, not flash.
Tom a quick question regarding some castings. I'm working on a kit (not yet at the details stage yet) that came with some of the castings slightly bent. Is there a safe way to straightening them out without breaking them?
Thanks,
Don
Don,
Yes, carefully. Some of the casting in this kit were bent. Both the utility pole cross members and the swing arm on the jib crane were bent. I just carefully bent them back to what I thought was straight. I placed them on a flat surface and applied a little pressure to get them straight.
Hope this helps.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 17, 2015, 08:26:08 AM
Don,
Yes, carefully. Some of the casting in this kit were bent. Both the utility pole cross members and the swing arm on the jib crane were bent. I just carefully bent them back to what I thought was straight. I placed them on a flat surface and applied a little pressure to get them straight.
Hope this helps.
Tom ;D
O.K. thanks Tom, I'll give it a try .... just nervous not wanting to break them .... sometimes I don't know my own strength.
Don,
You are very welcome. I have broken a few little casting in the past but super glued them together when I put them on the model. A little weathering and who knows.
Tom ;D
Good Morning Tom,
Sorry to hear about the bird heads. They are a key part to the model. They are probably sea gulls since the building is on the water. Around here i am known for "my birds" on my structures. As you know, many of the SRMW kits come with birds. On my buildings, they are either sea gulls of pigeons, depending. And of course, you must model the bird poop. I take a lot of ribbing about all the bird poop on my structures, but it really looks good to me. Just another part of the modeling process.
As I may have said earlier, I always liked this building, but could not find a place on the layout for it. I have a couple of other of Dario's structures on the layout and they really blend in nicely with the other kit, scratch built structures on the layout. Keep up the great work on this build. Got to get back to Tucker & Cook. Have a great weekend.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on May 17, 2015, 01:42:51 PM
Good Morning Tom,
Sorry to hear about the bird heads. They are a key part to the model. They are probably sea gulls since the building is on the water. Around here i am known for "my birds" on my structures. As you know, many of the SRMW kits come with birds. On my buildings, they are either sea gulls of pigeons, depending. And of course, you must model the bird poop. I take a lot of ribbing about all the bird poop on my structures, but it really looks good to me. Just another part of the modeling process.
As I may have said earlier, I always liked this building, but could not find a place on the layout for it. I have a couple of other of Dario's structures on the layout and they really blend in nicely with the other kit, scratch built structures on the layout. Keep up the great work on this build. Got to get back to Tucker & Cook. Have a great weekend.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
I didn't realize you made a post to the thread. I like the birds and the "poop" on the structures also. I'll send an email to Dario and ask him for more birds. I've found a couple of other small casting missing as well.
I got a little more done on the kit and the update will follow.
Thanks for the kind words on the build. Have a great time on the cruise.
Tom ;D
Over the past week or two I got the windows and all the casting painted. The windows were painted with Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer and the metal casting were all painted with Floquil Earth. I let them all dry and cure for a week.
Floquil paint will be dry to the touch in less than 24 hours but it won't be cured paint until three days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161411.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161427.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I was Skyping with Frank, Erieman, the other day and he was telling me about long structures warping. I noticed the walls on this kit have warped as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161440.jpeg)
This is not a big deal at this point. When I glue the walls together, I'll add interior cross bracing to straighten the walls. I'll go more into this later in the thread.
Continued in a few.
I decided I'd try something a little different in the A&I staining process. Well, actualy it is the same but I changed colors. I have traditionally used Black A&I for the walls both prior to and after painting the walls.
This time I used Hunterline Sepia Brown weathering mix. I also tested the Hunterline Cordovan Brown on a piece of clapboard siding. The Cordovan Brown was just to dark for the look I was after.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161501.jpeg)
In the above photo, you can see the two stains on the top of the siding. The stain of the left is the Cordovan Brown and the Sepia Brown is on the right. I applied one coat of each stain to what you see. Not shown is the second coat of Sepia Brown stain added to the sample on the right.
I then used the Zinc Chromate Primer and applied one coat wash of the paint to the two stains. By wash I mean I dipped the brush in the paint, just on the tip and then into some thinner and applied this to the walls. Refer to the below photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161532.jpeg)
The top left was still to dark for me. The top right is to light. When the window was placed on the wood, it made the window to dark. On this kit both the walls and windows/doors are the same color.
The wall section below the stain with the window is the paint wash with no A&I. This is to light as well. So to darken the color I could not thin the paint or just add one more thin paint wash. I opted to not thin the paint as much as in the sample.
Continued in a few.
I took the four wall sections and applied a coat of the Hunterline Sepia Brown. I let this dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161610.jpeg)
The next day I applied a second coat of the stain to the walls and let dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161555.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
This next step was a bit scary for me and certainly a leap of faith. The look I was after was one where the structure has been weather faded in the Florida sun for many years. Dark reds and browns fade quickly in the Florida sun.
Time for the test. I painted the four walls with a slightly thicker wash and when I finished they were very dark. However, the next day after the wash soaked into the board and batton siding, the color was more to what I was after.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161624.jpeg)
The next photo is more of a closer look at the walls with one window installed. I'll temporarily add the windows, apply some dry brushing and I believe I'll have my look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040715161641.jpeg)
Tom....
If things go too dark.... Try this.
Rather than a fast solvent like acetone, try a slower lacquer thinner or even a paint thinner solvent. Get a Kleenex wet with it and wipe the areas. Two things will happen. The Kleenex will pick up some of the excess and some will be thinned by being driven into the wood. If you need to use a really slow paint thinner it will take over night at least from the darkening effect of the wet.
Floquil picks back up really well with this.
Change the Kleenex often while you work.
Don't use anything with a sealer until you are sure you have it. This is why woodworking stains are not good for our purposes. Most carry their own sealer so you are really married to what ever you get.
Generally alcohol is not good for this process.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
Thanks for the great info. I'll keep it in mind. I'm happy with the way this one turned out for now. I let two of the SBG's see it and they like it as well. So, for now all is good.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Look really good sofar.
Karl
Looks good Tom.
Quote from: postalkarl on July 07, 2015, 08:30:21 AM
Hi Tom:
Look really good sofar.
Karl
Karl,
I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on July 07, 2015, 08:34:16 AM
Looks good Tom.
John,
Thank you, much appreciated. I'm planning on getting more done this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Once the walls were throughly cured, I glued them together. I glued the two opposite corners first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122807.jpeg)
When dry I joined and glued the two sections together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122822.jpeg)
The next day, I removed the weights and clamps.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122838.jpeg)
Now I have something to show on the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122854.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
In spite of my efforts to get the building square, it wasn't. It was square on this corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122911.jpeg)
But not square on this corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122928.jpeg)
I mentioned in an earlier post that the walls were a little warped. This photo is of the gable end walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715122949.jpeg)
This photo is of the side walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123005.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Prior to getting the walls straight I needed to get the structure square. As you know if your structure is only slightly out of square the roof panels will be "out of alignment" as well. Here is how I squared the structure.
I placed the building over a piece of stripwood 1/4" x 1". I then used weights to get the walls square. I then positioned the stripwood under the opposite corners and marked it with a pencil.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123022.jpeg)
I then cut the stripwood on the pencil lines making note of which end goes in which corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123037.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom - I cut a piece of styrene the inside dimensions of the structure making sure it is square and true, and then cut a rectangle out of the centre to give access. By adding this to the base you address both the buildings squareness and the warped walls. In taller buildings I add one at each floor level. Coming on nicely.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on July 12, 2015, 03:53:21 PM
Tom - I cut a piece of styrene the inside dimensions of the structure making sure it is square and true, and then cut a rectangle out of the centre to give access. By adding this to the base you address both the buildings squareness and the warped walls. In taller buildings I add one at each floor level. Coming on nicely.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Thanks for the kind words. Cutting the styrene on the inside dimensions is a great idea. I'll keep that in mind. I obviously took the other approach and used a ton of support lumber.
Tom ;D
I'll be updating this thread later this afternoon. I have many photos to post and narratives to write.
Tom 8)
Wow, hard to believe my last post on this thread was over a month ago. Now where was I?
Oh yea, I glued the cross piece to the corners just above the bottom bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123054.jpeg)
You can see in the next photo that the cross bracing is off center. This is so the building would square up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123109.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123125.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then used scale 12x12 stripwood and glued these to the bottom and top of the side wall bracing as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123146.jpeg)
This evened out the side walls. I then used the 12x12 stripwood to brace the ends walls as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123202.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When all the interior bracing was complete, I moved on to the roof panels.
I plan on lighting the structure so I needed to have access to the interior. The roof had to be made removable.
I took the two roof cards and cut out the roof panels on the outside edge of the black lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123254.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123312.jpeg)
I taped the two roof panels together and made a test fit on the structure. When I was satisfied with the fit, I marked in pencil a line on the inside of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123329.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123346.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123346.jpeg)
I then used the scale stripwood and cut five pieces the distance between the side lines on the roof panel. I cut each end at a 45 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123407.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123407.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123423.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123423.jpeg)
Continued in a few. No actually I'm stopping here for the night. My hand is getting tired.
I then marked the center point of the roof braces using a red Sharpie.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123438.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123438.jpeg)
I then used the red lines on the top and marked red lines on the sides and the angle of two more 45 degree cuts on each piece. I used the red lines as a guide for cutting the angles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123451.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123451.jpeg)
I used the Micro Mart chopper to make the center cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123516.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123516.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123531.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Looking good Tom. That is one BIG kit. It's going to look great when your finished with it and it's in its new home on the layout.
Glad to see you back at it Tom. :)
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 14, 2015, 07:22:47 AM
Looking good Tom. That is one BIG kit. It's going to look great when your finished with it and it's in its new home on the layout.
Bob,
Thanks and much appreciated. It is one big kit and it sure has been fun to this point. I can't wait to get to the dock area. And, oh yes, let me not forget to mention the 15+ tiny Slim type LEDs that go on the structures and dock area.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 14, 2015, 08:30:23 AM
Glad to see you back at it Tom. :)
Greg,
Thanks Butty, much appreciated. I'm very happy to get back to the build and posting updates. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Glad to see you back at it ..... you haven't lost your "touch" .... :D
Quote from: Donato on August 14, 2015, 10:46:50 PM
Tom,
Glad to see you back at it ..... you haven't lost your "touch" .... :D
Donato,
Thank you for the kind words, I'm very happy with the build to this point. Also, I'm most pleased to be back at the workbench.
Tom ;D
Once I had the stripwood pieces/rafters cut, I began to glue them to the underside of the roof panels on the lines as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171356.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171356.jpeg)
While the glue was still tacky, I placed the roof on the building to test the fit. The next photo shows how the rafter fits on the inside of the end wall, although I'm showing the position as it relates to the wall. Hope that makes sense.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171322.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171322.jpeg)
After gluing the vertical rafters to the underside of the roof, I glued four pieces of stripwood horizontally to the rafters.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171412.jpeg)
I then placed weights on the roof for 24 hours to be sure the glue was dry.
Continued in a few.
I did a roof test fit the next day and it all fit perfectly. Now, if you are thinking what if it didn't fit and the roof rafters were glued in position, what then?
Well, remember the test fit above when I showed the relation to the wall of the outside pieces? Once I knew the end rafters fit perfectly, it was a no brainer to glue the others on. Here is the test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120715123220.jpeg)
When the roof was in place for the test fit, I measured the distance between the two horizontal rafter supports nearest to the side walls. I then cut stripwood and glued them in place. This gave me the correct angle for the roof to fit snugly on the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171426.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171440.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I painted the underside of the roof ranels to match the structure walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171455.jpeg)
And here is how it looks on the building. Tomorrow I'll discuss the addition of the roof and the problems I had with it.
Included in the kit was a sheet of Evergreen styrene roofing material. I guess it was the equivelent of Campbell's Aluminum material. In the interest of time I didn't take photos of the stuff as you'll see it on the roof.
The instructions were very clear and unambigious. However, no matter how I placed the plactic on the roof I knew I wouldn't be able to do what the instructions called for.
Per the instructions, I was to cut four sections, two from each one of the sheets included, and glue them to the roof. With the left over material I was to cut sections as mentioned above. With the left over material, I was to "butt" the extra against the larger pieces.
Confused yet? Okay, here is the issue. The roofing material in the kit was only 7 inches wide and the roof is 8.75 inches wide. Due to the roofing material being some type of ribed stuff, it was virtually impossible to "butt" them with a gap showing. Also there wasn't enlough to cover the roof ridge cap.
In the photo below, I'm showing the material on the roof and you can see the gaps to the right and left on the back side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171527.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171527.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I used Green Squadron Putty to fill the gaps. I fingered it on and used some triple fine sandpaper to smooth the edges.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171604.jpeg)
The instructions also call for two thin strips of .010 strip styrene and use these for the ridge cap. The problem I had here was the fact the strips weren't side enough and this left a gap at the ridge.
I took some .020 sheet styrene and cut a ridge cap piece wide enough to cover the ridge and down to the roofing material. I used a metal ruler to bend the ridge cap in the center.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171621.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171636.jpeg)
I then used CA glue to secure it to the ridge.
Continued in a few.
Here is how it looks on the structure prior to painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171651.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171708.jpeg)
I recall the Delwins diorama Mario brought to the first Expo. It was a very large and impressive diorama. This is one way cool kit. I trust Tom will end up with a great addition to his layout.
Keep the updates coming.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on August 22, 2015, 07:16:16 AM
I recall the Delwins diorama Mario brought to the first Expo. It was a very large and impressive diorama. This is one way cool kit. I trust Tom will end up with a great addition to his layout.
Keep the updates coming.
Jaime
Jamie,
Thanks for stopping by and posting your thoughts, much appreciated. This has been a fun build and I'm way behind on it. I can't wait to get Slim's LED's and the dock net storage area going.
Tom ;D
I guess the roof is supposed to look like galvanized metal. So with that in mind I spray painted the roof with Floquils Reefer Grey. The grey will represent the toned down galvanized roof after a few years of weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171755.jpeg)
After placing the roof on the structure and letting it grow on me for several days, I decided I didn't like the color. The roof was just to dark. I plan to add chalks to the roof for additional weathering and decided the Reefer Gray wasn't going to work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171723.jpeg)
Continued later this evening.
When the Reefer Grey roof color was throughly dry I repainted it with Floquils SP Lettering Grey. You can see the different in color in the photo below. This is a much more realistic color for the weathered galvanized roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171810.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171829.jpeg)
I think this roof will be much easier to weather in rusts and browns.
While I was messing around and waiting for the roof to dry, I dipped the window for the main structure in the A&I mix. These were then set aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130815171736.jpeg)
I'll try to have an update this weekend.
Tom ;D
I used PanPastels for weathering the roof. I used a combination of earth tones, browns and rust for the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230915163917.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
After all the windows dried from the A&I bath, I applied Canopy Glue to the windows for the glass. These were again set aside for drying. No photos of this step.
I then very very lightly dry brushed the sides of the structure walls with Floquils Antique White. I achieved the effect I was after by doing the dry brushing very lightly, ie - almost no paint on the brush. Due to the walls being board and batton, I went to the resident expert. I didn't think using a sponge would give me the right look. I mentioned to Reading Bob the sponge effect may only appear on the battons. He suggested using a small, maybe 1/8" paint brush. I used the 1/8" brush and got the perfect look. Thanks Bob.
When the Canopy Glue dried I used the Antique White for dry brushing the windows. The windows were then glued into the window openings. I left a few of the window pains open as if the glass were missing or broken.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230915163945.jpeg)
No window shades were added as the workers need all the light they can get from outside. I think you can see the very subtle dry brushing on the walls.
I added a few details to the front of the structure. The doors are in the correct postion even though they are just above the bottom of the walls. The docks fits up next to the bottom of both doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230915164000.jpeg)
Good Afternoon Tom,
Obviously the doctor has given you a green light to play with trains. Glad to see you back. I can't wait to see what you will do with this building. Keep up the beautiful work and take it easy with all your body parts. I'm still resting from the convention!!!
Frank / Erieman
Looking good Tom! It's great to see that you're able to get back at this one. This will be the signature scene that leads into what will be a wonderful stretch of scenery on the layout when you get it completed. :D
Quote from: Erieman on September 23, 2015, 05:50:29 PM
Good Afternoon Tom,
Obviously the doctor has given you a green light to play with trains. Glad to see you back. I can't wait to see what you will do with this building. Keep up the beautiful work and take it easy with all your body parts. I'm still resting from the convention!!!
Frank / Erieman
Morning Frank,
I'm happy to be back modeling, at least even for a little bit. Actually the last few posts were areas I finished prior to the layoff but didn't get them up until after the surgery. I'm looking forward to getting back on this one, hopefully this weekend. Thank you for the kind words of support, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 24, 2015, 07:38:46 AM
Looking good Tom! It's great to see that you're able to get back at this one. This will be the signature scene that leads into what will be a wonderful stretch of scenery on the layout when you get it completed. :D
Bob,
Thanks for stopping by and for the kind words. I'm really anxious to get back to this one. It has lots of Slim's LED lighting and I need to get to the learning process of that one aspect of the build. I think the whole left side will be a show stopper when finished.
Tom ;D
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Tom
Good to see you back at it.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on September 24, 2015, 09:26:45 AM
Tom
Good to see you back at it.
John,
Thanks very much, it's good to be back in the fold.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 10:18:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hope ya got some extra padding on that saddle .... ::)
Quote from: Donato on September 24, 2015, 02:30:32 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 10:18:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hope ya got some extra padding on that saddle .... ::)
I have so much padding I don't need it on the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Looking great so far.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on October 01, 2015, 07:35:26 AM
Hi Tom:
Looking great so far.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much, I appreciate the feedback. I din't see your post until now.
I'm bumping this one also so the bench and track work can get done on the new A&S.
Tom ;D
I Tom:
I have a special set of brushes that are specifcally made for dry-brushing. I will look to see if there is a brand on the handle. They are quite expesnisve but work really really well. They are tapered and rounded on the ends.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 03:07:49 PM
Quote from: Donato on September 24, 2015, 02:30:32 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 10:18:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hope ya got some extra padding on that saddle .... ::)
I have so much padding I don't need it on the saddle.
Tom ;D
Do I get credit for not mentioning anything about padding? ::)
Quote from: postalkarl on December 07, 2015, 07:50:40 AM
I Tom:
I have a special set of brushes that are specifcally made for dry-brushing. I will look to see if there is a brand on the handle. They are quite expesnisve but work really really well. They are tapered and rounded on the ends.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for the information and YES see if you can get the brand name. It will be worth the expense. I appreciate the input.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 07, 2015, 08:44:14 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 03:07:49 PM
Quote from: Donato on September 24, 2015, 02:30:32 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 10:18:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hope ya got some extra padding on that saddle .... ::)
I have so much padding I don't need it on the saddle.
Tom ;D
Do I get credit for not mentioning anything about padding? ::)
Greg,
I got your credit right here.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 07, 2015, 09:43:02 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 07, 2015, 08:44:14 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 03:07:49 PM
Quote from: Donato on September 24, 2015, 02:30:32 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 24, 2015, 10:18:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 24, 2015, 08:51:45 AM
The Prez is back..... 8) 8) 8)
Amen brother! The cowboy is back in the saddle.
Tom ;D
Hope ya got some extra padding on that saddle .... ::)
I have so much padding I don't need it on the saddle.
Tom ;D
Do I get credit for not mentioning anything about padding? ::)
Greg,
I got your credit right here.
Tom ;D
Oh boy.................. ???
Hi Tom:
Here they are. they are from Micro-Mark. Sizes and stock numbers are on the handles.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on December 07, 2015, 04:52:02 PM
Hi Tom:
Here they are. they are from Micro-Mark. Sizes and stock numbers are on the handles.
Karl
Karl,
That's perfect, I'll order some this afternoon. Thanks very much.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Sounds good. I think a complete set is around 30 dollars. There are 4 brushes to the complete set. I think you will really like them. I know I Do.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on December 08, 2015, 10:15:58 AM
Hi Tom:
Sounds good. I think a complete set is around 30 dollars. There are 4 brushes to the complete set. I think you will really like them. I know I Do.
Karl
Karl,
I ordered a set from Micro-Mark this morning and will have them in about a week. Thanks again.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
You are quite welcome. Glad I could help.
Karl
Well, I finally caught up on this build and I am overwhelmed :o :o :o
I will just have to wait till the layout is far enough along for Tom to get back to this.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on December 16, 2015, 10:04:18 PM
Well, I finally caught up on this build and I am overwhelmed :o :o :o
I will just have to wait till the layout is far enough along for Tom to get back to this.
Jim
Hey Jim,
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the visit last weekend. I can't wait to get back to this one build. Hopefully it will only be a few more months.
Tom ;D
Bumping this thread. I'll be working on this one in the next month.
Tom ;D
While working on the Atlantic and Southern passenger sheds, I had a little time to continue some work on Delwin's.
I added all the nail holes and then braced the back of the walls per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290816183802.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290816183802.jpeg)
I then applied a light coat of Hunterline Light Gray A&I stain.
When the A&I was dry, I painted the exterior walls with Floquil CN Gray. I dipped just the tip of the brush in the paint and then dipped the tip in some clean thinner and brushed it on the walls. After the paint was "set" (almost dry but not quite), I dipped a clean brush into the thinner and painted the walls with the thinner. This process thinned the paint on the walls a little further.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290816183818.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-290816183818.jpeg)
After adding the windows and doors, I'll go over the walls a final time with the A&I and then add some dry brushing.
I'll of course keep you posted.
It feels good to be back on this build. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :-*
Looks good Tom, I think this is very cool kit. I saw another one build up with the optional lighting kit and I was very impressed.
-Steve
I think this will really be a "Show Piece" when you get it put on the layout.
I am looking forward to that moment.
Jim
Glad to see it back, Tom.
Vilius
Quote from: SteveCuster on August 29, 2016, 08:40:56 PM
Looks good Tom, I think this is very cool kit. I saw another one build up with the optional lighting kit and I was very impressed.
-Steve
Steve,
Appreciate you stopping by and thank you for the compliment. I have the lighting kit for Delwin's and plan on adding the lights as I go. It will be a great mini scene on the layout.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on August 29, 2016, 09:20:41 PM
I think this will really be a "Show Piece" when you get it put on the layout.
I am looking forward to that moment.
Jim
Butty Jim,
Thanks very much and I agree, this one will really look good in the Suwannee River basin. I'm also looking forward to that moment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: TheUkranian on August 30, 2016, 08:23:09 AM
Glad to see it back, Tom.
Vilius
Villius,
Thanks for stopping by. I'm happy to be back working on it.
Tom ;D
I got a little more done on Delwin's the past few days. When I first put together the diorama base, I raised the real estate 1/8 inch. This was over a year ago so when it came time to cut the main structure pilings, I cut them 1/8 inch short. So back to staining more dowels and cutting the new length of 1 1/8 inch.
Fourteen total are used on the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916170952.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916170952.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see the shorter one. Now I have fourteen pilings to use elsewhere on the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916171009.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916171009.jpeg)
Live and learn and move on, right?
I also installed the exterior end rafters and 66 rafter tails on the sides, 33 on each side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916171023.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040916171023.jpeg)
Not continued in few. Sorry, couldn't resist.
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 04, 2016, 05:51:54 PM
Not continued in few. Sorry, couldn't resist.
What happened, did you run out of DP ?????
Jim
Beautiful faded wood color Tom, is it a stain or paint?
Hi Tom:
Looking good.
Karl
I look forward to seeing this someday, will you have it done for the NMRA national meet next year I am assuming you'll be on the layout tours would love to see the layout. Your so near but yet so far. Scott H. Bradenton Fl
Quote from: jimmillho on September 04, 2016, 07:37:45 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 04, 2016, 05:51:54 PM
Not continued in few. Sorry, couldn't resist.
What happened, did you run out of DP ??? ??
Jim
Actually, YES :'( :'( :'( :'(
I'm all better now. :-*
Tom 8)
Quote from: Janbouli on September 04, 2016, 07:54:16 PM
Beautiful faded wood color Tom, is it a stain or paint?
Jan,
Thank you! Great question for inquiring minds. The red on the main warehouse started out as Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer. I thinned it considerably with thinner to make it a stain when applied.
You can review page five of the thread for the painting of the walls.
The pilings are Hunterline Weathering Mix Cordovan Brown stain (A&I).
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on September 04, 2016, 07:54:28 PM
Hi Tom:
Looking good.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, very much appreciated as always.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mecrr22 on September 04, 2016, 09:50:22 PM
I look forward to seeing this someday, will you have it done for the NMRA national meet next year I am assuming you'll be on the layout tours would love to see the layout. Your so near but yet so far. Scott H. Bradenton Fl
Scott,
Thank you for following along.
YES, I'm on the NMRA tour for July 2017. YES, I'll have this structure and many others finished for the show.
You are welcome to come visit anytime when you are in the area.
http://nmra2017.org/Program/RailroadingTours/LayoutTours.aspx (http://nmra2017.org/Program/RailroadingTours/LayoutTours.aspx)
I'm still waiting for them to post some of the photos I've sent for the tour.
Tom ;D
I have an update but have no pictures to show.
This is what I keep getting from the forum-
Unable to load the 'gallery_above' template
It seems like when they updated the server they didn't get it all put back! Just saying.
Tom ;D
Okay, It's working again.
In the instructions Dario said he used Magic Water. He suggested using Matte Medium on the pilings to keep the water from "wicking" up the pilings. He said not to worry as the matte medium dries clear.
I tried it - :'( :'(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143354.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143354.jpeg)
It obviously goes on white.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143409.jpeg)
More in a few. A Diet Pepsi is needed now. ;D
Well, after an hour it wasn't exactly "clear" but left a little white/milky residue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143425.jpeg)
You can see I also started to add the bracing for the pilings. The horizontal bracing was added first followed by the cross bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143450.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143450.jpeg)
I applied another coat of weathering mix on the pilings so the milky white doesn't look that bad. I won't use the matte medium on the rest of the dock pilings.
The good news here is that the piling shown above won't be easily viewed as the main dock sits in front of the main warehouse pilings.
Here is the actual size of the one net drying dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143504.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143504.jpeg)
Hi Tom:
should look pretty cool once you get that dock built up and installed.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on September 06, 2016, 07:57:48 AM
Hi Tom:
should look pretty cool once you get that dock built up and installed.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for stopping by. I have the approach wharf/dock built and will be sharing that build in a few minutes.
Tom ;D
The instructions keep referring to the dock as a wharf. I'm a Florida boy so from now on it will be referred to as a dock.
So, I built the approach dock this morning and early afternoon.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165641.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165641.jpeg)
I had to make a few modifications to fit my diorama but the effort was well worth it. Modifications were height adjustments to fit the main structure.
Back in a few, I have to help carry in the groceries. Hey, Babe, I'm trying to build an empire here.
Okay, back.
I gathered all the strip wood needed to complete this portion. I used the fine tooth razor saw to scribe the scale 2X12's and the pilings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165654.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165654.jpeg)
I then stained all the pieces with Hunterline Weathering Mix Creosote Black and set them aside to dry. I'm sure everyone has seen a pile of stained strip wood so no need to show it here. Oh, heck, I took the picture so here it is.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165712.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165712.jpeg)
More in a few.
The templates were full size (to scale) so I "tack" glued the 12 X 12's directly to the paper template. Normally, I'd lay some wax paper over the template and glue the pieces to the wax paper. Since I was only tacking the 12 X 12's, I chose not to use the wax paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165725.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165725.jpeg)
SNIT happens!
The instructions call for the 3 X 12" stringers to be cut to a length of 10.5 inches. The problem here was the 3 X 12 stringers were only 8" long. Kind of hard to cut something longer than the actual size. All the 3 X 12's in the kit were 8" long. So, snit happen!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165739.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165739.jpeg)
This really was frustrating as the 3 X 12's were all stained and dry. So, to the strip wood stash I went and got the correct size 3 X 12's. This set me back about 90 minutes.
Continued in a few.
After all the stringers were glued in place and dry, I started gluing the deck planks on the stringers. I used a square to ensure the planks were square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165758.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165758.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165810.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165810.jpeg)
When the planks were all glued in place, I removed the deck from the template. I used a #11 blade to slip under the 12 X 12's and cut away the paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165824.jpeg)
Time for a Diet Pepsi. Back in a moment or two, maybe three. 8) 8)
I turned the dock over and began gluing the piles to the bottom of the 12 x 12's. I used a square to ensure the piles were all straight. When dry, I started gluing the pile caps to the bottom of the piles. You can see the pile caps on the top three sets of piles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165838.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165838.jpeg)
When all the piles and pile caps were glued I turned the dock back over and used weights to hole it in place until thoroughly dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165852.jpeg)
I then glued the primary piles to the bottom of the pile caps. I then glued the cross braces in place and set the entire approach dock aside to dry.
Fast forward and the approach dock now has curb railing spacers and curb railings. One final detail I'll add that isn't in the instructions and this first of three docks will be finished. I'll share that detail tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165904.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165904.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165917.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080916165917.jpeg)
Nice! I'm glad to see that you're back at work on this one. It's going to be a signature scene on the A&S. :D It's certainly going to look terrific all lit up too. 8)
Looks great Tom.....can't wait to see it. 8)
Tom
It is good to see you working on this project again. I really like this kit. The build is looking great - I will be stopping by for updates on my coffee breaks.
Hi Tom,
I really liked this kit when I first saw it. I am going to build Shelby's Marina by Sierra West . But it will not fit any where in my new layout. I think it is a perfect model for some Florida swamps though. You are doing and excellent job and do not forget the alligators.
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 09, 2016, 07:22:38 AM
Nice! I'm glad to see that you're back at work on this one. It's going to be a signature scene on the A&S. :D It's certainly going to look terrific all lit up too. 8)
Butty Bob,
I'm very happy to be back on this one as well. Lighting this kit will be a bit "tricksie" but I'm looking foerward to the challenge. Thanks for checking and also for the LED info yesterday.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 09, 2016, 08:26:28 AM
Looks great Tom.....can't wait to see it. 8)
Butty Greg,
Thanks for checking in and I had fun yesterday.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on September 09, 2016, 09:03:07 AM
Tom
It is good to see you working on this project again. I really like this kit. The build is looking great - I will be stopping by for updates on my coffee breaks.
John,
I'm happy to be back on it. Moving to the other side of the layout means I'm making some dang good progress on the layout. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on September 09, 2016, 01:13:04 PM
Hi Tom,
I really liked this kit when I first saw it. I am going to build Shelby's Marina by Sierra West . But it will not fit any where in my new layout. I think it is a perfect model for some Florida swamps though. You are doing and excellent job and do not forget the alligators.
Steve,
Thank you for the kind words of support, much appreciated. Shelby's Marina was a kit I wanted but just didn't have the room for it at the time it was available. Now that I have the room I prefer this one. It fits my South Georgia North Florida theme better. I do have some HO scale gators and they will be present in and around the Suwanee River Basin.
Tom ;D
I finally got the windows and doors installed in the office building. I painted the shades on the back of the gallery glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133826.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133826.jpeg)
The office dock was completed as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133841.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133841.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133928.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133928.jpeg)
More in a few.
I mentioned last week I made an addition to the approach dock and that I'd share it with you.
I found some brass Nut and Bolt castings in my details stash. I have no idea where or when I got them but they turned out to be the perfect size for what I needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134458.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134458.jpeg)
The approach dock is lined with 4 X 4's on each side. This is to keep the vehicles on the dock. Unless we have a signal 2 (drunk driver) at the wheel.
I added the N&B's to the 4 X 4's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133944.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133944.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134000.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134000.jpeg)
Two of the three main dock sections are now complete. Well, I still need to do a little weathering with some pastel chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133857.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133857.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133912.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916133912.jpeg)
Continued after a Diet Pepsi break.
Ah, nice and cold!
This is how the office fits on the dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134017.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134017.jpeg)
I added the office dock railings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134033.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134047.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110916134047.jpeg)
Next is the staining and cutting of the third dock strip wood. I'll make sure I have all the right pieces and sizes prior to doing the staining.
This dock will bring it all together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143504.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050916143504.jpeg)
I have a couple sets of Grandt brass NBW that I've squirreled away for projects where I want to use them as pins to help strengthen the structure. Grandt doesn't make them any more (and I think I bought some of their last stock a couple months ago.) I've also used brass/phosphor bronze "pins" underneath plastic NBW to add strength to trestle bents, roofs, etc.
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 11, 2016, 04:30:21 PM
I have a couple sets of Grandt brass NBW that I've squirreled away for projects where I want to use them as pins to help strengthen the structure. Grandt doesn't make them any more (and I think I bought some of their last stock a couple months ago.) I've also used brass/phosphor bronze "pins" underneath plastic NBW to add strength to trestle bents, roofs, etc.
dave
Dave,
You may be correct in that these may be Grandt Line. I know I didn't purchase them so I'm clueless as to the origin.
Also, thanks for the other information.
Tom ;D
Tom, you can measure those and look for either Grandt or Tichy equivalents if you need more. I learned the idea to use metal pins to reinforce trestle bents, etc, from Dave Frary.
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 11, 2016, 06:20:38 PM
Tom, you can measure those and look for either Grandt or Tichy equivalents if you need more. I learned the idea to use metal pins to reinforce trestle bents, etc, from Dave Frary.
dave
Dave,
I have plenty of NBW, enough to last me a life time - all sizes including "O" scale. I was just commenting that I had the brass NBW in the stash.
I appreciate the input.
Tom ;D
Not sure about everyone else but I start out with the entire work space available. As I get further into any build, my space shrinks and I find myself building in a small area. Not complaining as it seems to work. Well, sort of.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164109.jpeg)
The main dock has a fairly large template and it doesn't fit in my small work area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164123.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164123.jpeg)
So I had to clean/push all the "stuff" to the sides for the template.
More in a few.
In the photo below you'll see that I have a lot of red arrows pointing towards the dock template.
The red arrows point to the spots where the secondary pilings are to be glued to the bottom of the structure. The red arrows give me a guide where "NOT" to place glue to hold the 12 X 12 dock bent supports on the template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164136.jpeg)
Also, the support 12 X 12's weren't long enough for the template so I spliced them per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164151.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164223.jpeg)
More in a few.
Along the back side of the dock, the side that butts up against the main warehouse, is 9" long. The 3 X 12 stringers in the kit are only 8" long. This is not an area where I want to start splicing stringers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164238.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164238.jpeg)
Northeastern Scale Lumber pieces come in 11" lengths. And, I didn't have and of NE 3 X 12's.
Kappler Mill and Lumber pieces all come in 12" length. They are a little more pricey but in my opinion a better qualiy strip wood. I don't have any of Kappler's 3 X 12's either. I do; however, have Kappler's 4 X 12's. Kappler also offers strip wood in 24" lengths.
http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/kp-products.htm (http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/kp-products.htm)
In the photo above you can see my stained 8" 3 X 12 piece and the 12" piece of 4 X 12. I used the 4 X 12's for the back 7 stringers.
Continued in a few.
The rest of the stringers, all 3 x 12's were glued in place and allowed to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164253.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164253.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164306.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164306.jpeg)
More after a Diet Pepsi break.
When the stringers were dry I started adding the 2 X 12 deck planks. The portion of the dock in the bottom of the photo is the closet to the layout edge and easily seen by visitors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164319.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164319.jpeg)
As I glue them on, I cut the deck planks in various lengths no longer than 18 HO scale feet. I then started gluing them to the stringers, staggering the planks so it appears they are individual lengths and not all the same length.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120916164331.jpeg)
Hopefully, I'll have this dock finished tomorrow evening.
I know it's a bit more work Tom , but the planks would always end in the middle of a stringer.
Quote from: Janbouli on September 13, 2016, 04:16:06 AM
I know it's a bit more work Tom , but the planks would always end in the middle of a stringer.
Jan,
Yes, they would and I considered this. This end the dock has another structure on it so the location of these won't show. I've already fixed the others.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Looks good to me. Once it's together and on the layout it will never be seen.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on September 13, 2016, 07:36:29 AM
Hi Tom:
Looks good to me. Once it's together and on the layout it will never be seen.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, I appreciate it. Jan is correct though even if it can't be seen. I've made the changes.
Tom ;D
Janbouli mentioned yesterday that the deck boards would stop at the stringer middle to be nailed. Even though the portion of the boards that didn't end at the stringers wouldn't show, I couldn't get Jan's comment out of my head.
Today, I went back and fixed the ones I didn't fix yesterday. I told Frank Baker, Erieman, this afternoon if I didn't fix the boards/planks I'd think about it every time I looked at the docks. So, all is fixed seen or not! 8) 8)
Thanks for the post Jan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161359.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161359.jpeg)
This is one slow process but I'm getting there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161412.jpeg)
More in a few.
When I finished, I had a small opening on the dock deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161429.jpeg)
I took a piece of scale 2X4 and filled the opening. Easy peasy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161457.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161457.jpeg)
Prior to removing this section from the template, I used an Emory board to sand the ends smooth.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161443.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161443.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The ends were all sanded and the top part of the deck is ready to be removed from the template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161527.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161527.jpeg)
Once removed from the template I used the A&I to touch up any cut ends.
I also sanded off any glue spots left on the bottom of the 12X12's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916163939.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916163939.jpeg)
I then cut the secondary pilings and glued them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161555.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161555.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161611.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161611.jpeg)
I had trouble holding the dock assembly while adding the cross bracing. So, I wedged it between two heavy weights.
The weights held the assembly until the cross bracing was finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161623.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161623.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161636.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161636.jpeg)
All the horizontal bracing and primary piling were added. Finally, I'm finished with building the three dock assemblies. I still need to do a little further weathering. I'll cover that process later in the thread.
Continued in a few.
When I test fit the dock assembly up against the main structure, the battens interfered with the fit.
I removed the offending battens.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161704.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161704.jpeg)
Here are the three dock sectons along with the main boat house.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161650.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161650.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161719.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161741.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161741.jpeg)
Looking very good Tom , great weathering , it will be a awesome harbor seen when you're done. Thanks for sharing .
Quote from: Janbouli on September 13, 2016, 05:01:13 PM
Looking very good Tom , great weathering , it will be a awesome harbor seen when you're done. Thanks for sharing .
Jan,
Thanks for checking back in, I very much appreciate your support, kind words and comment from yesterday. I feel better making the changes.
Tom ;D
I mentioned in my layout thread I had to cut a small portion off the edge of Delwin's diorama. This had a small domino effect with the docks.
When I replaced the structures back on the diorama the main dock was to close to the edge. Not only did this make me nervous, it also made it hard to see the main pilings and lower portion of the dock supports.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145044.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145044.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145059.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145059.jpeg)
More in a few.
I made the decision to remove, as in cut off, eight scale feet from the approach dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145030.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145030.jpeg)
This gave me room enough room to place the main dock back in the position in order to see the pilings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145112.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145112.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145126.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145126.jpeg)
The main net drying dock has a long shed roof and a small sub assembly structure on the dock. I braced the walls per the instructions and set them aside to dry overnight.
I used Hunterline Weathering Mix Driftwood on the walls. I applied two coats. I painted the door and windows with Floquil Antique White. When the white was dry and cured, I dipped them into the Driftwood stain.
Gallery Glass was then added for the window glass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145309.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230916145309.jpeg)
Here is how Delwin's looks with the water base color painted on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300916151453.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300916151453.jpeg)
I finished gluing the small net storage office together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151554.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151554.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151608.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151608.jpeg)
This is approximately where it will go on the dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051016151622.jpeg)
That's a really beautiful work Tom.
The small office looks very cool ;)
Quote from: Pol.lux on October 05, 2016, 03:36:34 PM
That's a really beautiful work Tom.
The small office looks very cool ;)
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
I've resumed my work on Delwin's. I'll have some updates and pictures in the next few days. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Look just fantastic. Can't wait for more pics.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on November 16, 2016, 12:28:25 PM
Hi Tom:
Look just fantastic. Can't wait for more pics.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for checking in. I should have some tomorrow evening.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Cool sounds good.
Karl
I started work on the office roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162314.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162314.jpeg)
I have a tendency to over brace if one can over brace a structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162335.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162335.jpeg)
I cut the roof card stock per the instructions, placed it on the office and marked the interior walls. This will help me line up the roof to the building later when glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162350.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162350.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The kit comes with Campbell shingles and I'll use them on the office roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162405.jpeg)
After taking the picture of the shingles and roof section, I noticed the dotted lines on the roof card are the same width as the shingles. Each row of shingles will fit between the dotted lines. Not sure if this was done on purpose or by accident but I won't be using the roof section that came with the kit.
I purchased some lined card stock at last years Expo (Danvers) and used the kit card stock as a pattern to cut a new roof section. This section has the proper spacing for Campbell shingles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162423.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162423.jpeg)
I left the roof for later at this point and decided to make a billboard sign for Delwin's
More in a few.
I wanted a large company billboard sign for Delwin's and I wanted it to be seen from the road. It will be located where the Schaefer Beer sign shown below is located.
Reading Bob built the Schaefer Beer sign for the A&S RR. The sign is a Vectorcut sign. Dave Krakow has some fantastic stuff on his site. Lots of great details no one else has. Check out his site, its wonderful.
http://www.vectorcut.com/ (http://www.vectorcut.com/)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162717.jpeg)
The sign will be at the intersection of the County Road (to be named later).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162748.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162748.jpeg)
Yes, my planning is much further than the actual build and scenery you now see and hopefully enjoy.
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162730.jpeg)
Notice the road looks off in the above photo? This is due to the angle of the view. When viewed from the road direction, all appears normal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162804.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162804.jpeg)
I plan to fix the scenery around the road to force the viewer to see the road from the road angle so it will look normal.
Continued in a few.
I scribed and stained some scale 1X10s and glued them to 4X6 posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162818.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162818.jpeg)
I scanned and saved the original signs in my sign file. I copied the pumpkin colored sign, resized it to fit a bill board. I then applied a coat of full strength matte medium to the front of the 1X10s. I then applied the new sign to the bill board and set it aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162848.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162848.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time people. Back in a few.
I framed the sign with scale 3X3s. I thought 2X2s were to small and 4X4s were to big.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162834.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162834.jpeg)
I forgot to mention I cut the sign in four sections as if it were a bill board sign. You can just barely see the separations in the photo below. I used a #17 Xacto blade to peal back a corner at the top of one of the sections.
I also used the front of an Emory board to weather the sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162902.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162902.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162917.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162917.jpeg)
More in a few.
Postalkarl turned me on to some dry brush weathering brushes. I got them from Micro-Mark.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162930.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162930.jpeg)
I made an extra sign and did a little practicing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162944.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162944.jpeg)
I used the small #2 to apply some dry brushing of Floquil Antique White to the sign and frame.
I added some dark gray Pan Pastel to the cut lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162959.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162959.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I added some back horizontal bracing to the sign. The bracing was trimmed when the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163013.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163013.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163029.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163029.jpeg)
More in a few.
The sign is now ready for two LED lights above the bill board. This will be fun to light!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116163258.jpeg)
More tomorrow evening. Thanks for following along.
I built the billboard sign to light as I didn't think I'd be able to installed the one for the roof. On the RSM diorama, the office faces to the front of the diorama. The problem I have is I changed the diorama for a better view of the docks. On my diorama the office faces the wall. No need to have a lit sign facing the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161650.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130916161650.jpeg)
I've since thought of a way to have the sign on the office roof so it faces the water, know as Mosquito Lagoon. Mosquito Lagoon is a real location in Florida. It is located just North of Titusville. The Judge thought of calling our Suwannee River Basin area around the gas dock and boat stroage Mosquito Lagoon.
I agreed. My dad and I went fishing there on several occasions when I was but a tadpole.
More in a few.
As I mentioned, the office roof has Campbell shingles installed.
I was going to use Rusty Stump shingles but opted to use the old stand by as the office sits near the rear of the layout.
I have a way of installing the shingles I haven't shared up til now. This is only my way of doing it and I'm not saying it is the best way for all others. It works for me and the result I'm after.
Campbell shingles come with a dry glue on the rear and is activated when water/moisture is applied.
I only wet the area on the shingle as I shown in the photo below. The area I wet is highlighted in RED.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162440.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162440.jpeg)
I use a small paint brush to apply water to the smooth side of the shingle.
RSM instructions call for the builder to shingle the roof as it sits flat on the workbench. I've done it this way in the past and I've installed the shingles only after the roof is glued in place. Again, your preference here.
For the purpose of this build, I've done it both ways to show the idea is to get it shingled no matter how you do it, on or off.
In the next photo you can see I've shingles the one side of the roof. I leave a little over lap of the shingles and I'll explain why in a few minutes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162527.jpeg)
Continued in a few. I need a Diet Pepsi.
I now have the roof glued to the office building. I also installed a fascia instead of having the rafter tails exposed. Again, the office sits in the back so the rafter tails wouldn't show that much.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162501.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162501.jpeg)
I guess a few minutes are now up so I'll explain why I leave them long until they dry.
I take a small paint brush, load it with water and paint the edge of the singles from the underside as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162514.jpeg)
I do this as it better glues the shingles to roof edge. I've never had a Campbell shingle come up on the edge after doing this. When dry I use a new #11 Xacto blade to remove the shingles.
NOTE: I only remove the over hanging shingles on the side, NOT the front or rear.
More in a few.
I now have the entire roof shingled. I trimmed the edges and let is sit over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162540.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162554.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162554.jpeg)
The next step is to "pick" the shingles meaning I want them to look weathered so I want to raise about 1/3 of them.
More in a few.
When I raise the shingles, I apply a light coat of alcohol to the shingles. This coat can be an A&I of your choice or just plain alcohol. For this roof I used plain 70% Isopropoyl Alcohol.
NOTE: Your roof should be thoroughly dry prior to using the alcohol.
I brushed on the alcohol as I would if applying an A&I stain.
The alcohol "softens" the shingles and then they can be picked without having to "dig" under them.
The next photo shows one side of the roof shingles "picked".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162611.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162611.jpeg)
The next photo shows how the shingles looked prior to the alcohol and picking. Notice how some of them are flat on the roof?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162647.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162647.jpeg)
I picked this side same as the other. Now both sides are finished.
Let the alcohol dry and then you can apply more A&I as I did. I used Hunterline Driftwood stain to the roof for the initial coat. When thoroughly dry I can dry brush the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171116162659.jpeg)
The roof will require more weathering but it is now ready of anything.
Today I'm working on the office roof top sign. No pictures yet.
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. I'm following along.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on November 28, 2016, 07:55:03 AM
Hi Tom:
Looks great so far. I'm following along.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, I hope to have some pictures to post in a few days.
Tom ;D
Well, I added the Delwin's build update to my layout build thread. Sorry, but I'm not moving it.
You can view the update here though.
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-atlantic-and-southern-build/new/#new (http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-atlantic-and-southern-build/new/#new)
Sorry for the inconvenience.
Getting confused are we? ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
Getting confused are we? ;)
I think my 9 miles did me in yesterday. I only did 4.5 this morning. Maybe I'll only mess up half today.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
Getting confused are we? ;)
I think he is catching up with me.
Jim
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 30, 2016, 08:42:17 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
Getting confused are we? ;)
I think my 9 miles did me in yesterday. I only did 4.5 this morning. Maybe I'll only mess up half today.
8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D ;D
I'll root for a full recovery! ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on November 30, 2016, 11:27:51 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
Getting confused are we? ;)
I think he is catching up with me.
Jim
We both are forging ahead at warp speed Jim.....ought to catch up with you in no time. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 01:34:29 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on November 30, 2016, 11:27:51 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2016, 08:32:54 AM
Getting confused are we? ;)
I think he is catching up with me.
Jim
We both are forging ahead at warp speed Jim.....ought to catch up with you in no time. ;D ;D ;D
Both of you are to fast for me. ;D
Tom ;D
I'm on the roof for the net drying shed now.
I cut the corrugated panels to the correct size per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161436.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161436.jpeg)
I cut four additional panels for the ends. I plan on having end rafters and I wanted a little over hang for the roof panels fit over the end rafters.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161449.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161449.jpeg)
The larger panel is the one for the end.
More in a few.
I was out of the double sided tape so I used a fresh glue stick. I applied the glue to the cardboard and added the panels. I did about three inches at a time, adding more glue as I moved on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161503.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161503.jpeg)
The instructions called of painting the corrugated strips prior to cutting them to size. I didn't do this as cutting them and handling them would require touch up painting later.
If had followed the instructions for the next few steps I could have saved myself two days work. This was deliberate on my part. Here is my reasoning.
The instructions call for the rafters and ridge beam to be stained and heavily weathered. So I said to myself, "Self, what is the purpose of badly weathered rafters and ridge beam not exposed to the elements?" Anyway, it didn't make sense to me.
I thought it would be something different to have a new roof on an older structure. This idea took me two days to complete.
More in a few. I forgot to get my afternoon Diet Pepsi.
If I'm going to have a new roof including rafters and a ridge beam I may as well have decking as well.
I glued scale 1X10s to the underside of the roof card.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161516.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161516.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161529.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161529.jpeg)
So far a perfect fit!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161543.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When one side was finished I trimmed the edge pieces off. I was careful not to cut in to the corrugated pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161555.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161555.jpeg)
I then finished the other side and added decking around the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161607.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161607.jpeg)
More in a few.
The kit came with two gable pieces the same angle as the office end walls. I glued these in place on the under side of the rood card. These blocks set the correct angle of the roof and also aid in the correct positioning of the roof on the office.
When the gable blocks were dry I glued the ridge beam in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161623.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161623.jpeg)
I then added lines to the under side of the 1X10s. The lines are 1/4" apart which is about 18 inches in the 1:1 world. The rafters well be glued on the lines and against the beam.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161645.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161645.jpeg)
More in a few.
Good news, I still have a perfect fit. I'm surprised.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161659.jpeg)
I cut 44 rafters per the instructions. I cut mine longer and will be trimmed later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161714.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161714.jpeg)
More in a few.
Rafter gluing took a little patience.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161740.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161740.jpeg)
When the one side was finished, I added weights until the glue was thoroughly dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161756.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-011216161756.jpeg)
Continued in about 30 minutes.
After both sides were dry, I added the cross braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171323.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171427.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171427.jpeg)
More in a few.
I noticed the roof had a slight curve from one end to the other so I added another gable brace to the inside of the third rafter from the end.
This leveled the roof card.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171515.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171515.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171527.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171527.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171540.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171540.jpeg)
More in a few.
I didn't use the two strips of plastic for the roof ridge cap. Instead I used some corrugated pieces for the cap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171553.jpeg)
I took a section of corrugated material and cut a strip 5/8" in width. I then placed it on the roof and gently bent it down to fit the roof angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171607.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171607.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171619.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171619.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171633.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171633.jpeg)
The exterior end rafters were added along with the rafter tails next to the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171705.jpeg)
And the roof still had a perfect fit on the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171653.jpeg)
The new roof is finished except for the flat finish for the new corrugated panels.
I have a little update on Delwin's.
I started the roof support structure for the corrugated roof piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-021216171717.jpeg)
The header is a scale 4X6 and the posts and gussets are scale 4X4s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041216172608.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-041216172608.jpeg)
Hi Tom:
Looking good can't wait to see this guy finished and on the layout.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on December 04, 2016, 05:33:43 PM
Hi Tom:
Looking good can't wait to see this guy finished and on the layout.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much, appreciate you checking in. Actually it is on the layout. The diorama is permanently installed. My heirs will have to deal with getting it out. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051116191537.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051116191537.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291116162956.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291116162956.jpeg)
Informative, instructional, inspirational....and just plain purdy!!!
Thanks Tom.
Hi Tom,
This project is coming along very nicely. It will be a great asset to your railroad. I liked this kit when I first saw it but I don't have an area for a swamp on my layout. Great job.
HI Tom:
Really looks great on the layout. I following along.
Karl
Quote from: Donato on December 04, 2016, 07:59:52 PM
Informative, instructional, inspirational....and just plain purdy!!!
Thanks Tom.
Donato,
Thank you, I very much appreciate you taking the time to post a comment.
I'll have a little more to add this evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on December 04, 2016, 09:45:19 PM
Hi Tom,
This project is coming along very nicely. It will be a great asset to your railroad. I liked this kit when I first saw it but I don't have an area for a swamp on my layout. Great job.
Steve,
Thank you, much appreciated. This has been a really fun build and a signature one for this area.
Wait until I get it all lit.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on December 05, 2016, 07:44:09 AM
HI Tom:
Really looks great on the layout. I following along.
Karl
Karl,
This has and still is a really fun and challenging build. I'm adding lights as I go. I'll have a little more to post later today.
Tom ;D
Today I finished the shed roof support structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181316.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181316.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181330.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181330.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also spent two hours installing the LED's in the two lights over the office sign. One light was installed over the side door along the approach dock. I had a light over the door below the sign but removed it as it was to much light when lit.
I'll install a shade over this door w/o an LED.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181344.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181344.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181358.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181358.jpeg)
Dusk and night is coming fast.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181419.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-051216181419.jpeg)
Awesome.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
Jim
Very nice Tom. The lights are great!
Mike :)
Beautiful build Tom! You nailed the color of the dock!
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on December 06, 2016, 11:03:42 AM
Beautiful build Tom! You nailed the color of the dock!
Glad to see you back LHC.....how's the progress on your layout doing? 8)
Tom, couldn't you 'dull down' the light for over the door somehow with paint, or do you think it would look odd with different 'strengths' of bulbs?
Jeff
ooops....I forgot .... illuminating ....
Quote from: jimmillho on December 05, 2016, 08:05:36 PM
Awesome.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
Jim
Butty Jim,
Thank you. I think its awesome you stopped by to take a look see.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on December 06, 2016, 05:46:45 AM
Very nice Tom. The lights are great!
Mike :)
Mike,
Thank you, much appreciated. The lights take time but the result is something I can't complain about.
Tom ;D
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on December 06, 2016, 11:03:42 AM
Beautiful build Tom! You nailed the color of the dock!
Leo,
Great to see you my old friend. I hope you and Laurie are doing well. I speak to Dave Barron on a regular basis. He is working hard to get his layout ready for the NMRA here in July of 2017 as I am.
Thank you for the kind compliment on the build and dock. I appreciate it.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 11:06:12 AM
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on December 06, 2016, 11:03:42 AM
Beautiful build Tom! You nailed the color of the dock!
Glad to see you back LHC.....how's the progress on your layout doing? 8)
Butty Greg,
I'm back and in good shape. The layout is progressing only as fast I can get Delwin's finished.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on December 06, 2016, 11:08:24 AM
Tom, couldn't you 'dull down' the light for over the door somehow with paint, or do you think it would look odd with different 'strengths' of bulbs?
Jeff
Jeff, I was thinking in terms of to many lights vs the amount of brightness. However, I think the different strengths of the LED and color, bright and warm, would look very good.
I'll have to rethink the office door. Keep in mind there are about 22 additional LEDs that go into the kit. Ref. the to much light(lights).
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on December 06, 2016, 11:27:46 AM
ooops....I forgot .... illuminating ....
Donato,
Ah, very good. I see the light now! ;D ;D 8)
Tom ;D
I have more to add to the thread but need a break to upload the photos.
I also need a Diet Pepsi.
Tom ;D
Well, installing LED lighst in a structure sure takes time. I've been on one most of the day now.
Today I've installed three LED lights in the net storage and office. In preparation of the lighting, I cut a wire access hole in the dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154233.jpeg)
The office will hide the hole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154246.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154246.jpeg)
More in a few.
LEDs were installed in two shades and glued to the net storage support structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154259.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154259.jpeg)
I forgot to paint the shades so I had to do it carefully do it in place. No paint was used on the wood structure in this post. ;D ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154315.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154315.jpeg)
More in a few.
All wires will be soldered for lighting and hidden in the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154332.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154332.jpeg)
The wiring for this set of lights is now complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154412.jpeg)
More in a few.
For now and until all lighting sections are complete, the wires for this section are hanging out the bottom of the dock. When all the lighting is consolidated, they will be routed under the dock and up through the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154358.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154358.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154425.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154425.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154438.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061216154438.jpeg)
Following your thread is quality time Tom . thanks for sharing.
Tom, it is coming together quite good. Are you going to put sone "shadow" details in the interior of the building?
Marty.
The lighting in the net storage area looks absolutely grand.....Atta boy Tom! 8)
Quote from: Janbouli on December 06, 2016, 06:26:37 PM
Following your thread is quality time Tom . thanks for sharing.
Jan,
Thank you for following along and for the nice compliment. I'll have a little more on the build tonight.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mkrailway on December 06, 2016, 07:10:22 PM
Tom, it is coming together quite good. Are you going to put sone "shadow" details in the interior of the building?
Marty.
Marty,
Thanks, much appreciated. I'm not sure yet about the interior, at this point probably not as there is so much going on on the exterior.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 08, 2016, 07:53:09 PM
The lighting in the net storage area looks absolutely grand.....Atta boy Tom! 8)
Greg,
Thank you. You actually got to see it in person prior to this response. Appreciate the support.
Tom ;D
Some progress was made the past few days on Delwin's.
I started and completed the net drying racks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184321.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184321.jpeg)
I needed to build six of the racks but there were only three templates. This required me to build 3 braces, which makes one rack, at one time. It took me a day to get all six of the racks built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184337.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184337.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184351.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184351.jpeg)
Here is the approximate location of the net drying racks on the dock.
I won't glue these in place on the dock until I'm ready to glue the dock to the base. The net drying racks are small and very fragile. I certainly don't want to rebuild them later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184406.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184406.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184421.jpeg)
I also started building the boat lift housing. The instructions called for the modeler to stain the walls prior to bracing. I never do this.
I marked on the back of the gabled walls where the bracing would be glued. In this case the bracing is glued to the inside of the pencil lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184502.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184502.jpeg)
Fast forward and I braced the walls and added the stain. I used a combination of Hunterline Light Gray and Barn Red. The grain of the wood darkened the stain as seen in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184518.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216184518.jpeg)
More in a few.
The boat lift house is glued together and the second photo shows how it will fit on the main dock in front of the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216185146.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216185146.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216185201.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216185201.jpeg)
One more picture in a few.
The boat lift canopy support structure was next. I cut and tack glued the frame onto the template. I'll let this dry over night. I removed the weights to take the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216190630.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111216190630.jpeg)
Finished a little more on Delwin's. Seems like this kit goes on and on. I guess I'm getting close though.
I'm starting to think about all the lights being connected to the main board. A very big concern I have is the ability to be able to repair and LEDs that may so south on me. If all is hard wired, it will be difficult to repair one section without affecting the other sections.
With this in mind I decided to use mini connectors between each lighting section and the mother board. This way I can remove the section, work to replace the LED, plug it back in and all is well.
I started with the net drying area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164126.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164126.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164138.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164138.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164151.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164203.jpeg)
I ran the wires under the dock and between the stringers.
I also added a few braces to hold the wire up and out of the site of visitors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164220.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164220.jpeg)
I also decided to glue the approach dock and main dock together. They will be glued in place prior to the resin pour anyway.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164101.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164101.jpeg)
I did't glue the main dock to them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164113.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164113.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
You are always thinking.
Bill
I added rolled roofing to the boat lift shed and canopy roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164000.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164000.jpeg)
I added rafter tails and exterior rafters to the boat lift shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164013.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164013.jpeg)
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on December 13, 2016, 04:54:58 PM
You are always thinking.
Bill
Bill,
Thanks for stopping by. I some times find it necessary to think outside the box on modeling. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
I added rafters to the underside of the boat lift canopy roof.
The horizontal bracing is glued in place to keep the roof from warping as the glued rafters dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164029.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164029.jpeg)
The boat lift and canopy roofs were painted with Floquil SP Light Gray. When dry, I weathered them with PanPastel chalks.
Looks like the red wire is trying to escape. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164048.jpeg)
More in a few.
I applied two coats of Hunterline Creosote A&I to the lower piles and the horizontal braces. This is to show that the piles have been in the water a long time.
Once the water is poured the piles will look dark under the water.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164233.jpeg)
When the piles have dried for a day or so, I'll go over them with AK Interactive Slimy Grime Light and Dark where the water line will be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216172321.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216172321.jpeg)
More in a few.
My over head lights bled into the next photo but here is a water level look at Delwin's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164313.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164313.jpeg)
Canopy roof supports still need to be added and so on and so on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164258.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164245.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131216164245.jpeg)
Wow! This is some crazy great building Tom!
Quote from: MAP on December 13, 2016, 06:30:53 PM
Wow! This is some crazy great building Tom!
Mark,
Thank you for the kind words of support. I'm glad you are enjoying the build thread.
I have more to add this afternoon.
Tom ;D
I started work on the boat lift frame and harness. However, I did a major overhaul on it.
I followed the basic frame structure and built it over the template. This is where I left the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151543.jpeg)
The instructions suggested taking the .012 music wire and cut four equal pieces and super glue one on each corner. When the glue dries, you were to bend them up to meet in the middle.
I didn't think this would be realistically balanced so I changed this as well.
What I did was drill a #80 hole in each corner and super glued the wire into the hole, not just on the top of the frame.
I used a short piece of scale 6X8 and drilled a #80 hole in each end. I then bent the .012 music wire at an angle to fit into the holes and super glued them in place.
I also added corner braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151601.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then bent the wire in a 90 degree angle. I drilled two additional holes in the scale 6X8 harness beam.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151615.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151615.jpeg)
The wires were then pushed up through the beam from the bottom and glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151628.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151628.jpeg)
More in a few.
For the harness, the instructions suggested taking a piece of masking tape, folding it in half and cutting it in two six inch pieces.
Instead, I used two pieces of Evergreen Scale Models styrene strips. I used .010 X .125 (1/8") styrene. I glued one end to outside edge of the scale 6X8.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151706.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151706.jpeg)
When dry, I glued the other two ends to the opposite side of the harness frame.
This is what I ended up with -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151718.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time ya'll. Back in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151734.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151734.jpeg)
No need to install N&Bs to the harness as it won't been seen for that fine detail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151748.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151748.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151802.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151802.jpeg)
Here is how it looks under the lift shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151816.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151816.jpeg)
More in a few.
The two harness straps were painted with Floquil Roof Brown.
The wires were painted with Floquil Old Silver.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216163156.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216163156.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151848.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151848.jpeg)
A little more in a few.
Looks like you did the right thing Tom, much easier to hold the wires in place this way.
Here is a look at the boat lift and canopy with lights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153008.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153008.jpeg)
I'll discussed how I wired the lights tomorrow evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Janbouli on December 15, 2016, 04:34:15 PM
Looks like you did the right thing Tom, much easier to hold the wires in place this way.
Jan,
Thank you. It looks more realistic to me and certainly makes more sense to have the harness balanced. Don't want to have to buy someone a new boat due to a faulty boat harness. :'(
Tom ;D
Prior to getting into the lighting, I'd like to give a quick update of a couple of things.
I added the net drying racks to the dock.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173711.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173711.jpeg)
I also repainted the lamp shades from dark green to bright green. I used Floquil MKT Green for this. Once the paint cures, I'll dull the gloss.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173742.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173742.jpeg)
More in a few.
A separate lighting kit for Delwin's is sold by Ngineering. I purchased mine from Slim.
http://microlumina.com/store/ (http://microlumina.com/store/)
I'm using about 85% of what comes in the lighting kit. The one item I'm not using is the LED Mother Board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173644.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173644.jpeg)
Instead and as I mentioned earlier in the thread, I want better control over the entire lighting of the diorama.
The LED board is an excellent idea and makes the lighting much easier for most modelers. However, for me the one big negative is all the lighting is in/on one central board. Another issue is the board, shown below, has two sides. Some LEDs are wired to side A and some are wired to side B.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173658.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173658.jpeg)
If a short occurs, on side B then the entire board must be turned over to access that area. In so doing the wires are then wrapped around the edges . I wanted more freedom to make repairs and or change LEDs with as little disruption to the other sections as possible.
So, no mother board for me. I'll go over my choice later in the thread.
Continued in a few.
Three LEDs are required for the boat lift shed and under the canopy roof. I installed the one in the lamp shade and two under the canopy roof. I didn't use shades for the two LEDs under the roof as they can't be seen so I saved my self a little work here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151902.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151902.jpeg)
You can see I made two additional braces where the LEDs are attached. This lets the LED sit just below the rafters instead of between them.
I'm making the entire substructure removable so I need to be able to disconnect the wires from the main structure.
When I was using the old DC analog sound, PFM (Pacific Fast Mail), I used micro-mini pin connectors to join the tender and loco wiring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151916.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151916.jpeg)
More in a few.
The brass wire fits into the female connector. Wires are soldered to both parts and heat shrink tubing is added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151936.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151936.jpeg)
Here is how the wiring looks after two wires are soldered to the micro-mini connector.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151950.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216151950.jpeg)
More in a few.
A little fast forward here and all the wiring for this section is complete. The wires and micro-mini connectors are nicely tucked between the rafters. The black and red wires shown on the bottom go through the main structure where they will be joined with my version of a control panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216152954.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216152954.jpeg)
When the wiring was finished, I installed the boat lift harness.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153026.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153026.jpeg)
An important note here is that I made this section a separate sub structure. It can be removed from the diorama to be worked on without endangering the rest of the sub structures. This is the case even after the resin water is added.
Continued after a Diet Pepsi break.
Here is a look at the first two lighted sections. Again, both sections can be removed and worked on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153038.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151216153038.jpeg)
I added the canopy roof supports and railing as shown in the photo below.
Black tar pitch was added around the lift shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161216173727.jpeg)
More in a few.
Hi Tom:
WOW!!! Very cool. Like the lighting.
Karl
That's going to be another great scene that stands on it's own and draws the viewer in for a while. The layout is really coming together!
John
Hello Tom
Another fantastic build/scene. Very nice job.
Don't mind me Tom....I'm still trying to find something you missed.....
(https://thumb9.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/946633/377380066/stock-vector-cute-detective-emoji-smiley-emoticon-377380066.jpg)
Quote from: postalkarl on December 16, 2016, 08:47:06 PM
Hi Tom:
WOW!!! Very cool. Like the lighting.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much. The lighting of a structure with Nano LEDs really changes the entire look of the structure.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Cuse on December 17, 2016, 08:36:30 AM
That's going to be another great scene that stands on it's own and draws the viewer in for a while. The layout is really coming together!
John
John,
Thanks very much for the kind support. I'm getting near the end of this build. Delwin's does make the scene look better.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Twopoint2 on December 17, 2016, 09:10:12 AM
Hello Tom
Another fantastic build/scene. Very nice job.
Jim,
I appreciate the kind words of encouragement on the build. I'm nearing the end and ready to move on. Again, thanks very much.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on December 17, 2016, 11:12:50 AM
Don't mind me Tom....I'm still trying to find something you missed.....
(https://thumb9.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/946633/377380066/stock-vector-cute-detective-emoji-smiley-emoticon-377380066.jpg) (https://thumb9.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/946633/377380066/stock-vector-cute-detective-emoji-smiley-emoticon-377380066.jpg)
Donato,
Keep looking, I'm sure I missed something somewhere. If you don't see it, I probably will! 8) 8) 8)
I appreciate your support on the thread.
Tom ;D
Today, I finished work on the floating dock. I followed the template and built the dock works.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180311.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180311.jpeg)
I'm skipping all the photos of strip wood glued to the template and going directly to the finished docks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180325.jpeg)
More in a few.
The small dock on the left of the office dock was glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180340.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180340.jpeg)
The rest of the floating docks were placed about where they will end up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180353.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180353.jpeg)
The walkway from the top deck to the floating dock is at a steep angle. When the resin water is poured, it won't be at that steep angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221216180409.jpeg)
I'd like to mention the kit came with several half barrels to be placed under the floating docks. Nice touch but they don't show. I'll save them for another project.
I still need to add a few more railings and details. I'm nearing the end and ready to move on to another build or at least get back to the layout scenery.
Tom
I started making the light poles for Delwin's. I'm using the .018" tubing and shades from Slim and the Nano Pico LEDs from Model train software.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154844.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154844.jpeg)
Forum member Timbob60 mentioned he gets pre wired LEDs from the site listed below.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html (http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html)
The LEDs wiring is small enough to fit in the .018 tubing eliminating the need to wrap the wires around the goose necks. They are a little pricey but saves your eyes from wiring the little buggers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154859.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154859.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I cut a section of .018" tubing 1/2" in length and glued one of the aluminum shades to the end. Be careful to not get any glue in the hole of the tubing when gluing the shade on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154917.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154917.jpeg)
I then placed the tubing in a vise and painted the inside of the shade with Floquil Silver. This is to cover the aluminum so the wires on the LED don't get shorted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154931.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154931.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then inserted the wires in the tubing through the shade and tested the LED.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154944.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154944.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154958.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216154958.jpeg)
More in a few.
The LED was pulled through and snug against the inside of the shade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155015.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155015.jpeg)
I then took the 1/8" dowel. They came in the kit and were precut to the needed length. I cut a small groove down the side of the dowel. I used the Dremel and cut off disk for cutting the groove. My groove wasn't exactly straight but it won't show in the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155029.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155029.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155042.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155042.jpeg)
More in a few.
Moving back to the LED and support, I used two pair of needle nose pliers and bent the tubing in a 90 degree angle and tested the LED again.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155056.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155056.jpeg)
Moving back to the pole, I drilled a .018 hole into the side of the pole 1/2" from the top. I also drilled a .018 hole in the groove side of the pole. These two holes were drilled at a 90 degree angle. I then used the drill bit to drill at a slight angle between the two holes. This will help me get the wires through the pole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155109.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here's a little trick in getting wire through a 90 degree hole.
Take the end of the wire and bend it at a 90 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155122.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155122.jpeg)
Take the wire and insert it in the hole where the support will be glued. Then gently move it towards the other hole. I say gently as you don't want to unbend your 90 degree bend.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155139.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155139.jpeg)
Once the wire is in the first hole and your wire is on the left as shown above, move the wire to the right and the ends of the wire will appear out of the other hole. See below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155152.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155152.jpeg)
More in a few.
Yea, I know it's magic. Merry Christmas to you!
Now pull the wire through before you get all excited and pull it back out. ;D ;D ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155205.jpeg)
I then pulled the wire and inserted the tubing in the hole and glued it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155219.jpeg)
Notice the pole bracket is at a 90 degree angle from the grooves.
Continued in a few. I need to go back and correct a misspelled word.
When the light bracket is dry, pull the wires down and into the grooves in the pole.
You can use white glue or CA to glue the wires in the grooves. I used the CA(super glue).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155232.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155232.jpeg)
I then re-stained the pole groove with Hunterline A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155251.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155251.jpeg)
When placed on Delwin's diorama, the wires will be on the other side of the light and not seen by the viewers.
More in a few.
I forgot to mention a deeper groove was cut in the bottom of the pole. This allows me to get the LED wires in the center. When the light pole is glued to the diorama, the wires will be down center of the rabbit hole and I can get a good seal around the pole.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155304.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155304.jpeg)
Another LED testing and all is good.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155317.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155317.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is how this pole looks on Delwin's diorama. The lamp shade was painted with Floquil Dark Green and the tubing was painted with Floquil Grimy Black.
The wires can't be seen.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155333.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155333.jpeg)
Now to make five more light poles.
Another Atta Boy Tom..... 8)
Thanks Tom , you make it look easy, that's what skill does.
Nicely done Tom.
Great progress and looking great Tom. Thanks again for all of the "how-to" and photos.
Tom, the one thing modelling teaches us is patience - wiring LED lamp posts does everything in its power to undo that. However, your step by step instructions has made it look so easy I might consider doing it again ... some day. Good job! ;D ;D
All I can say Tom....is "Terrific...."
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.tvtropes.org%2Fpmwiki%2Fpub%2Fimages%2Ftom_terrific_4577.jpg&hash=d22ed1e793223da3914f4edb602934878bf47ed8)
Tom,
Adding the lighting really makes this model look great. Always learning something in your builds. ;)
Tommy
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 23, 2016, 05:52:47 PM
Another Atta Boy Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Another thank you, much appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Janbouli on December 23, 2016, 06:08:11 PM
Thanks Tom , you make it look easy, that's what skill does.
Jan,
Thank you, your very kind compliment is appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on December 23, 2016, 09:25:07 PM
Nicely done Tom.
Steve,
Thank you sir. I appreciate you checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on December 24, 2016, 06:53:01 AM
Great progress and looking great Tom. Thanks again for all of the "how-to" and photos.
Mark,
Thanks very much. Pictures sure help in the explanations. And, you are welcome.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Mkrailway on December 24, 2016, 07:42:33 AM
Tom, the one thing modelling teaches us is patience - wiring LED lamp posts does everything in its power to undo that. However, your step by step instructions has made it look so easy I might consider doing it again ... some day. Good job! ;D ;D
Marty,
Thank you.
Patience is the one thing I seem to have on my builds. However, wiring those tiny little buggers isn't one I want to cultivate. I'll continue to purchase the pre-wired ones just to say my eyes and time.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on December 24, 2016, 07:48:26 PM
All I can say Tom....is "Terrific...."
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.tvtropes.org%2Fpmwiki%2Fpub%2Fimages%2Ftom_terrific_4577.jpg&hash=d22ed1e793223da3914f4edb602934878bf47ed8) (http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/tom_terrific_4577.jpg)
Donato,
Thanks very much for following along. I think it's terrific you found Tom T. I used to watch TT back in 1957 on the Captain Kangaroo Show.
Tom ;D
I got an email saying the wire trick in the 90 degree hole doesn't work.
Well, actually it does but here is why it didn't work for this one person. In the photo shown again below, notice the 90 degree bend in the wire.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155122.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231216155122.jpeg)
This photo is enlarged so the wires can be easily seen. It appears the wire on the bend is about 1/4"+ in length. The bend in the photo is only 1/16" long. The dowel is 1/8 " in diameter and I'm only inserting the wire in half of that. The bend in the wire should only be as long as the shortest distance to the angle.
You'll never get a 1/4" bend through the angle if the distance to the angle is only 1/16" or less.
I hope this is a little more clear.
Tom ;D
Today I installed the five utility poles that light Delwin's docks.
The dowels were said to be 1/8"; however, 1/8" drill bit was to small for drilling the holes in the diorama. The actual dowel size drill bit I needed was 5/32". So, five 5/32" holes were drilled in the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171753.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171753.jpeg)
The poles fit in the hole with a nice tight fit. I'll still add a little glue to secure them and seal the hold so no resin water gets through.
I installed the first one and added power to see how it looks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171817.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171817.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171830.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171830.jpeg)
I then added a second pole and tested it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171844.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171844.jpeg)
More in a few.
In the photo below you may have noticed that I added the 55 gallon barrels under the floating dock. I glued them onto the underside of the dock and when dry, painted them Floquil rust.
When the paint cures, I'll weather them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171901.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171901.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171915.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171915.jpeg)
More in a few.
I drilled holes in the diorama where the main structure sits and pulled the pole wires through. I numbered the wires so I know what sequence to wire them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171946.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117171946.jpeg)
I then installed the third utility pole and tested the circuit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172001.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172001.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172039.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172039.jpeg)
I then installed the other two utility poles in the proper locations and tested both circuits. They work, thank goodness.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172017.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172017.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I placed the docks and structures on the docks and again tested both circuits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172054.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172054.jpeg)
Twilight view - Must be an early fog as the photo is a bit foggy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010117172109.jpeg)
Tom, it looks fantastic! It is amazing what a little light on the subject will do for the scene. I think when you get the water added the reflection off that water will be something to see. Great job as always.
Bill
Hi Tom:
Looks really great. Love the lighting.
Karl
The night scene of Delwin's is awesome.
Jeff
Great looking all lit up..... 8) and it hasn't burned down .....yet. ;D ;D ;D
That's one great looking signature scene! Love the lighting. 8) :D ;D
Hi Tom,
The lighting adds so much to the scene. Really great
Looking good my friend. 8)
Jim
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on January 02, 2017, 04:34:39 AM
Tom, it looks fantastic! It is amazing what a little light on the subject will do for the scene. I think when you get the water added the reflection off that water will be something to see. Great job as always.
Bill
Bill and Kris,
Thank you, much appreciated. The reflection of the lights off the water in a night scene will really be the shot that I hope I can capture the best. I haven't been to great on the night time shots to date.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on January 02, 2017, 07:41:03 AM
Hi Tom:
Looks really great. Love the lighting.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, much appreciated as always.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 02, 2017, 09:59:58 AM
The night scene of Delwin's is awesome.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Thanks very much, appreciate the comment. I was very sorry to hear about your position. :'(
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 02, 2017, 11:06:43 AM
Great looking all lit up..... 8) and it hasn't burned down .....yet. ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
I learned my lesson on the fires, I hope! And, thanks for the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 02, 2017, 12:23:42 PM
That's one great looking signature scene! Love the lighting. 8) :D ;D
Bob,
Thank you for the kind words. I learned all my illumination skills from you. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: sdrees on January 02, 2017, 12:35:12 PM
Hi Tom,
The lighting adds so much to the scene. Really great
Steve,
Thank you very much. I really like the dock lights.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on January 02, 2017, 02:42:03 PM
Looking good my friend. 8)
Jim
Jim,
Thanks very much my ole friend, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
I got more finished on Delwin's today. I only have time to share a few photos though.
I mentioned that I added 55 gallon barrels to both Bud's and Delwin's floating dock. This morning I added a coat of A&I and when dry added a wash of Slimy Grime to the bottom of the barrels.
I used AK Interactive Slimy Grime Light. I mixed the wash to a 70 part thinner to 30 part Grime.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180357.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180357.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180344.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180344.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180409.jpeg)
More in a few.
I used the same Slimy Grime wash and added it just above the proposed water line. I plan on the water line being just above the slimy green on the posts.
All docks posts were treated in the same way. I'm only showing the larger of the three docks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180331.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180331.jpeg)
I still need to add the Slimy Grime to the five utility poles.
Continued in a few.
I really like the Slimy Grime look Darryl used on the side of his Seabiscuits Boatworks.
I decided to give it a try on the sides of the main Boat and net storage building. I used a small wire brush to expose the wood.
I then used the same AK Interactive Slimy Grime Light wash to add the mix to the side walls. I'll add some very light A&I stain tomorrow to finish the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180252.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180252.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180305.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180305.jpeg)
More in a few.
I did a little corner of the front of the structure also. I plan on having some wet nets stored here. I'll add a little grimy slime to the dock around the nets once I get them made.
Thanks for the tip Darryl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180319.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020117180319.jpeg)
Very nice touch. This has been a great build to watch and saw you plant it in your other thread.
Quote from: Rail and Tie on January 07, 2017, 02:33:39 PM
Very nice touch. This has been a great build to watch and saw you plant it in your other thread.
Darryl,
Thank you, much appreciated. Thanks very much for posting the "how to" on your Seabiscuits thread. The slimy green on the sides of the structure really help bring it to life.
Again, thank you.
Tom ;D
I posted the how I did the lighting on my layout thread but here are a few of the pictures of the lights for those following this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117161654.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117155725.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117155750.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117155738.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117155832.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117155832.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070117161719.jpeg)
Ditto what I said on the A&S thread. 8)
Tom
It really looks great! Love the lighting.
Tom It is really shaping up. I like the backdrop look great.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 07, 2017, 05:42:12 PM
Ditto what I said on the A&S thread. 8)
Greg,
Ditto to what I said on that thread as well. And thanks very much.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 07, 2017, 06:46:58 PM
Tom
It really looks great! Love the lighting.
John,
Thank you very much, it has been a lot of fun, especially doing the lighting.
Tom ;D
Quote from: TomW on January 09, 2017, 07:53:09 PM
Tom It is really shaping up. I like the backdrop look great.
Tom
Tom,
Thanks, much appreciated. Good to see you back on the forum as well. I guess you are now officially retired.
I tried to call but you voice mail box is full so I guess you are retired.
Tom ;D
Awesome Tom.
I think I might be able to try some lights myself.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on January 10, 2017, 04:12:09 PM
Awesome Tom.
I think I might be able to try some lights myself.
Jim
Jim,
I put off doing lights for a very long time. It isn't as hard as it appears. If you need any help at all let me know and we can get together and try some.
Tom ;D
I haven't said how great your work is in a long time Tom
So here goes..........
TOM!!! Your work is great!!!
Tom, The scene looks spectacular!!!
Lookin' good there!
Nice lights
-slim
Hi Tom:
Really looking great. Also Like The FOS Bait & Gas Kit in there to.
Karl
Quote from: Donato on January 11, 2017, 11:09:49 AM
I haven't said how great your work is in a long time Tom
So here goes..........
TOM!!! Your work is great!!!
Donato,
Thanks, much appreciated. I'm slowly getting caught up on all the threads.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MartyO on January 17, 2017, 10:30:50 PM
Tom, The scene looks spectacular!!!
Marty,
Much appreciated, thanks very much. Sorry for the late response.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 18, 2017, 07:38:29 AM
Lookin' good there!
Nice lights
-slim
Slim,
Thanks very much my partner in crime. I wonder where the lights came from? We all know yours catch fire. ;D ;D
You must have improved on the LEDs. 8) 8) My structures are still standing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on January 18, 2017, 07:47:02 AM
Hi Tom:
Really looking great. Also Like The FOS Bait & Gas Kit in there to.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks very much Buddy. I always appreciate your support.
Tom ;D