When I went to the EXPO earlier this year one of the things on my list of 'must haves' was to pick up another Downtown Deco kit. I also wanted to stop by, say hello to Randy and tell him how much fun it is to build one of his kits. So, here's the kit I picked up, "The Trackside Tavern":
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113055-75302154.jpeg)
The contents of the box, unwrapped. The castings are very well wrapped to protect them while inside the box. Downtown Deco offers will replace any damaged castings (and I'll let Randy, if opts to comment here, expound on his very forgiving replacement policies).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113055-75311260.jpeg)
More kit contents, wire, instructions, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113055-7532551.jpeg)
First step was to even out the back of the castings. Just a few light swirls in a circular pattern on a sheet of sandpaper does the trick. Normally I use a sheet of sandpaper that's been glued to a piece of handy board but I couldn't find it and I was in a bit of hurry so I just placed the sheet on my workbench and had at it. It doesn't take much to even them out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113055-75332491.jpeg)
In one or two places there was glob of hydrocal that needed to be removed from the edge of a casting. Using a chisel blade in my X-Acto handle I gently rocked the knife back and forth pressing down ever so slightly until the offending glob was cut away.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113055-75342197.jpeg)
It only took a few seconds to remove the glob and, after a light touch up with and emery board, everything looked fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113207-75351056.jpeg)
I removed the door and window casting from the sprue's the were attached to using a sprue cutter and touched them up with and emery board as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113207-7536558.jpeg)
More in a moment...
Time to glue the walls together. This structure has an odd shape to it so I started with the walls that need to be at a 90 degree angle to one another. I glued them together using Titebond Wood Glue and held them in place until the glue set enough to hold them on it's own. If you opt to clamp them don't over do it or you may be testing the replacement policy. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113207-7537342.jpeg)
More gluing and holding...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113207-75381700.jpeg)
After the walls are together you can fill in any gaps in the joints using spackle. A strip of painters tape on both sides of the gap will prevent the spackling from filling in the nearby details carved into the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190415113207-75391377.jpeg)
Skip ahead a bit, I've already sealed the castings with a cheap, rattle can white primer. Now it's time to start having some real fun. I don't know how many pictures I'll show of this process, but I start by applying washes of colors. I use cheap craft store arcylics and thin them out by dipping my brush in water, then the paint (and sometimes more water) and painting them on the castings. In some cases it's hardly anything more than dirty water. I like Raw Umber, Black, Burnt Umber, occasionally some Sienna's, Georgia Clay for the bricks, Gray's for the stonework, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160515120144-79571982.jpeg)
I painted the stucco with a thicker (but still thinned) coat of a light blue acrylic. Later on I decided I didn't like this particular color and repainted it with a green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-160515120144-79581831.jpeg)
I keep adding layers of colors and washes over the structure and fine tuning it as I go. I find this very relaxing and enjoyable. One thing that Randy recommends in the instructions is to step away from the project for a while and then see how it looks. Very wise advice. I have the advantage of keeping my workbench in the living room of our house (except when we have company) and I notice more than once, that when I'd glance over at the structure when I wasn't actively working on it, that the stone work was too dark or the walls too light. Things like that. I'd make a mental note to address that the next time I worked on it.
That's all the pictures I have uploaded to the forum at this point so I'll stop here. More when I get to it. As always, feel free to add pictures of your own hydrocal builds, advice, comments, whatever!
Following along with your build. Looks great so far Bob. Thanks for the great commentary/tips/instructions as you do the build. I've got 2 of Randy's kits and will be getting to at least one of them in the Summer. Keep the progress photos coming!
Nice looking building Bob.....I'll be watching. 8)
Lookin' good so far, Bob.
Jeff
You have my interest Bob (as always!) I'll be definitely tagging along on this build. :D
I attended Randy's clinic at the Expo and he recommends using 2-Part epoxy. Do you have good results with the Tite-Bond Glue?
Thanks Mark, Greg, Jeff, Donato and Chris!
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer.3 on May 23, 2015, 11:16:08 AM
I attended Randy's clinic at the Expo and he recommends using 2-Part epoxy. Do you have good results with the Tite-Bond Glue?
Chris, we drove back to Florida on Saturday (all day Saturday ::) ) or I would have attended Randy's clinic. I was sorry I couldn't make that one.
I think I picked up the Tite Bond Glue tip from when I built the hotel that comes in the SRMW Cambridge Crossings kit. It holds quite well. But I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use 5 minutes epoxy. I gave some thought to adding some 1/8" strip wood to the inside, glued in place with 5 minute epoxy to inside of each corner to strengthen the structure but decided it wasn't really necessary.
Trackside Tavern is a great starter kit if you're uncertain about hydrocal. Looking good! 👍
Bob,
Of course I'm following along as well. Your step by step tutorial is not only excellent but probably appreciated by many who haven't commented.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 23, 2015, 04:48:53 PM
Bob,
Of course I'm following along as well. Your step by step tutorial is not only excellent but probably appreciated by many who haven't commented.
Tom ;D
Amen Tom ! AND Guilty as charged !! Bob, as always appreciate your outstanding build threads not only to they display your craftsmanship but also plenty of tips and techniques for all of us to consider potentially other ways of doing the same or how to approach certain aspects of building.
Thanks again Bob and keep up the great work and outstanding tutorials.
--Paul
Okay back now to our regularly scheduled hydrocal build thread.
Bob
It looks great so far! Another first class build thread too!
Thanks for the nice comments Dave, Tom, Paul and John!
I'm almost finished with this one. A few roof details, a sign and the canopy are all that's left to add. I have more pictures to process and upload before I can update the thread but I'm quite pleased with how it's turning out. :D
Bob, i'm now thinking about building a Hydrocal kit because of this thread. Good job.
Marty
I'm absolutely following along and taking notes. I'm pretty certain I'll build my Downtown Deco kit next with your (and Randy's) threads as a guide.
John
Thanks for the comment Marty and John! These are fun to build. I really enjoy the flexibility I have with the painting process. I just keep working at it until it gets to a point where I'm happy with it.
I'm not going to show all the various stages of painting but here I am applying a light gray to the stones. They'll get several washes of various colors and a dry brush of the original light gray before they reach a point where I'm pleased with the effect.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085027-82281048.jpeg)
I used a craft store acrylic called "Georgia Clay" as the base color for the bricks. Don't worry about it being too bright. Washes will adjust the color to something more pleasing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085027-82312267.jpeg)
The doors and windows....well, there's an interesting story with the doors and the windows. I opted to spray them with a rattle can, some camo green color, rather than an airbrush. I taped them down to the tray face down and sprayed the back first. Just to practice with the rattle can and to see if I liked the color. They looked good. So, when they dried I flipped them over and sprayed the front. They didn't look right as I was spraying them. They looked speckled with light and dark dots of paint. I tried a couple of coats and only ended up building up layers of speckles. Arrrghhhh! I put them aside figuring I'd have to get some replacements. After the paint set I decided, on a whim, to scrub them with some fine steel wool. The speckles came off and the underlying surface looked pretty good. Whew... :D So, anyway, at this point I'm dabbing them with a sponge with a little gray paint on it to get a peeling paint effect. I'll dip them in A&I and drybrush them with and off white after the A&I dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085027-8232162.jpeg)
I added glazing using MicroScale Industries Micro Kystal Klear. It's relatively easy to work with (easier than Canopy Glue, bubbles are typically not an issue with this stuff). You just draw it across the opening to get a film and let it dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085027-82331476.jpeg)
I'm still adding washes to the building as I work my way along. It's not there yet but it's starting to take different shades of color which build some character.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085027-82341431.jpeg)
More washes...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085248-8235680.jpeg)
Continued in a moment. :D
At this point, while waiting on a wash to dry, I cut out all the signs and awning with a sharp blade and a steel straight edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085249-82362216.jpeg)
The instructions say you don't need to do this but it's an old habit with me so I sanded the back of most of the signs to make the paper a little thinner. I used a fine grit sandpaper and worked from the center out being careful not to sand thru the signs or tear them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085249-82371078.jpeg)
I toned the signs down a bit by first brushing them on the back with a thinned out A&I. I have my regular A&I bottle and a bottle of plain ol' A handy. I dip the brush in the plain ol' A first and then the A&I to thin get a thinned version to apply to the signs. I ended up doing the front of the signs as well. Most times doing the back tones them down more than enough but this time it didn't have as much of an effect as I would have liked.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085249-8238576.jpeg)
I've finished with the washes on the structure and finally got it a state I'm happy with. Now it's time to start adding the signs. I used a thinned white glue, applied to the back of the signs and positioned them on the structure. Don't press down the areas of the sign that will be cut away (where the stucco has fallen off the building). You can see my 'blue' wall, is now a green wall. :D After the glue has set take a sharp knife and carefully trim away the portions of the sign that fell off when the wall crumbled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085249-82391581.jpeg)
The "Beer" sign that's mounted on the front of the building is made up of two signs and a piece of styrene. I trimmed the styrene to match the size of the signs and then applied 3M Transfer tape to the styrene and trimmed it to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085458-82402356.jpeg)
Peel off the backing of the 3M Transfer Tape and you have a sticky surface to mount the sign on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085458-82412480.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Carefully position the signs on the sticky styrene. Two things can go wrong here, you can get 'em on crooked and/or you can mount them so that one is right side up and the other upside down. Be careful not to do that. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085458-82421352.jpeg)
When I went to add the doors and windows to the structure I noticed that the front door wasn't recessed enough. That's easy enough to correct. The opening is a bit taller than the door so that can be fixed a couple of ways that I'll cover in a moment.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085458-82432478.jpeg)
A small square of relatively course sandpaper made quick work of increasing the depth of the opening so the front door would be recessed enough. After sanding I painted the opening black again and then glued the door in place aligning the bottom edge of the door with the bottom edge of the structure. I opted to leave a gap at the top which, for the most part, will be hidden by the awning and not noticeable. Alternately the door could have been mounted flush with the top of the opening and small step could have been made out of some strip wood, painted in a concrete color, which then could be used to cover the gap at the bottom of the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085458-82441015.jpeg)
I guesstimated how deep the roof should be and glued (using 5 minute epoxy) some strip wood in place to support the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085659-8245377.jpeg)
I cut the sheet of styrene (included in the kit) to fit the structure and applied bracing underneath and 3M Transfer Tape on the surface. Instead of using the roofing material included in the kit I substituted a sheet of roofing paper from Stoney Creek. Something I picked up at the EXPO. I thought this structure was certainly worthy of it. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085659-82461832.jpeg)
I made sure my bracing wouldn't interfere with the bracing I had glued to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085659-8247959.jpeg)
More in a moment. ;D
When I trimmed the roofing paper I left some overhang on all sides that I folded up so it would completely fill in the opening and run ever so slightly up the side of the walls when the roof was placed in the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-300515085659-8248481.jpeg)
Oops...that's all I have for pictures today. I'm hoping to finish this one up this afternoon. The roof with get a mist of grime and some weathering powders. The chimney will be added as will some repairs with pitch and I'll try to think of a few more details to add to the roof. The Beer sign will get mounted on the front as will the awning and some pipes. I'll cover that and add some final photos when I finish it up. Thanks for following along!
Fantastic job Bob. I like how you finished the signs and walls.
Tom ;D
Great build Bob.
John
Bob,
I really enjoyed following along. Can't wait for the next "installment" .....
Thanks Tom, John and Donato,
Here's the finished structure. I add some downspouts (which hide the joints) some pitch 'repairs' to the roof, the chimney, the awning and the beer sign. I did something a little extra when installing the beer sign, rather than simply gluing it to the wall with CA I drilled two tiny holes in it and glued a short piece of wire into each hole. Then I lined it up on the front wall and used the wire pins as a guide to drill holes into the wall for the wires to go into. Then I glued it in place. Just a little extra support for the joint. I also added some chipboard under the awning (with 3M Transfer Tape) to give it some strength and to keep it from developing a wavy appearance over time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175550-8361270.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175550-83621624.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175550-83631074.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175550-83641448.jpeg)
Oh yeah...I wanted some way for the little people to access the roof so I crafted a 3' square access hatch out of strip wood, chip board and some roofing paper. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175550-8365175.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040615175625.jpeg)
Hope you like it. Give Randy and Jimmy's hydrocal kits a try. They're a lot of fun to build and you end up with a really unique looking structure for you layout. :D
nice job! what did you use for the tar lines on the roof? I like how thin and "understated" they are.
bob c.
Really enjoyed following along with this hydrocal build. Thanks for the ride. ;D
Quote from: rpdylan on June 04, 2015, 06:47:30 PM
nice job! what did you use for the tar lines on the roof? I like how thin and "understated" they are.
bob c.
Thanks Bob! The tar lines are made up of Gallery Glass Liquid Leading (my new favorite pitch thanks to Dave K). I squeezed out a small blob on a piece of scrap paper and then used a tool, basically a metal handle with a pointy thing on the end :) , that I have on my work bench to pick up a little bit and apply it to the roof. I was shooting for thin and understated so I was really happy when you said that. Thanks for following along!
Quote from: UP Fan on June 04, 2015, 07:09:30 PM
Really enjoyed following along with this hydrocal build. Thanks for the ride. ;D
Thanks Bob! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Always happy to share whatever's on my work bench. :)
Bob
Another great build thread! And some great tips - I have some new items on my shopping list. Thanks for sharing.
Great structure build, Bob. A gritty looking trackside building.
Jeff
Well done Bob! 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on June 05, 2015, 07:48:37 AM
Bob
Another great build thread! And some great tips - I have some new items on my shopping list. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks John! Every town needs at least a few structures like these. ;) I need to build some more of these. I keep forgetting how much fun they are to paint.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 05, 2015, 07:59:04 AM
Great structure build, Bob. A gritty looking trackside building.
Jeff
Thanks Dr. Jeff! I really appreciate the comments. :D
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 05, 2015, 08:32:51 AM
Well done Bob! 8)
Thanks Greg! You'll get to see it person one of these days. ;)
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 05, 2015, 07:36:25 AM
Quote from: rpdylan on June 04, 2015, 06:47:30 PM
nice job! what did you use for the tar lines on the roof? I like how thin and "understated" they are.
bob c.
Thanks Bob! The tar lines are made up of Gallery Glass Liquid Leading (my new favorite pitch thanks to Dave K). I squeezed out a small blob on a piece of scrap paper and then used a tool, basically a metal handle with a pointy thing on the end :) , that I have on my work bench to pick up a little bit and apply it to the roof. I was shooting for thin and understated so I was really happy when you said that. Thanks for following along!
Bob, GREAT build!!! (as usual). I just received my Gallery Glass Leading today. I picked up the hint same as you did from Dave K. and ordered mine as soon as I finished the "glue&paint" tarring of my Magee's roof .... I wasn't happy with it. So now I'm looking for my next "tarpaper" build so I can use it.
Bob,
Wonderful build and neat looking structure. Very well done my friend.
Tom ;D
I'm such a fan of the clear Gallery Glass for windows, looks like I need to pick up some black. The product is nice, my bottle of clear is 4 years old and still works fine.
Nicely done, Bob. I was mistaken when I said I built Trackside Tavern...I built the "First Timer's Bar." It, too, is a great introduction to hydrocal kits at only $29.95. Here it is installed in Millersburg.
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 05, 2015, 09:58:38 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 05, 2015, 08:32:51 AM
Well done Bob! 8)
Thanks Greg! You'll get to see it person one of these days. ;)
Looking forward to it Bob! :)
Bob, great work as always. Your build are always so informative.
Bob,
Great work on your build and the how to do photos showing the construction progress in this thread.
Tom
Thanks to all for the comments, replies, additional information, etc. I learned a lot from the forums and I'm happy to try and pass on what works (or sometimes doesn't ::) ) for me. :D
Dave K - Your First Timers Bar looks really good sitting next to Slim's place. :D That looks like a great little kit for getting one's feet 'wet' with a hydrocal kit.
Bob, I enjoyed this thread a lot. I built this one several years ago, and while it was fun, it would have been even better had I seen this thread first. Some great ideas and tips. Where are you guys getting "Gallery Glass Leading"? I always prefer to buy from the LHS or Michaels, Dick Blick etc., but of course will do mail order if I have to.
Quote from: Mike Engler on October 03, 2015, 12:43:48 PM
Bob, I enjoyed this thread a lot. I built this one several years ago, and while it was fun, it would have been even better had I seen this thread first. Some great ideas and tips. Where are you guys getting "Gallery Glass Leading"? I always prefer to buy from the LHS or Michaels, Dick Blick etc., but of course will do mail order if I have to.
Thanks Mike! I found the liquid lesding at JoAnn Fabric. I really enjoy building Randy's kits and love the character he gives his structures.
Got mine at Michaels.
Hi Bob:
Wonderful build. Structure looks absoulutley Beautiful. See you used the blue painters tape method to fill the corners. A suggestion: instead of using the wet plaster and a putty knife use the lightweigt dry stuff and your finger. It works really well and there is absolutely no mess. Like your colors and weathering. what exactly is Liquid Lesding from Jo-Ann Fabrics? Let me know what it is and what you use it for OK.
Thanks:
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on October 05, 2015, 09:06:43 AM
Hi Bob:
Wonderful build. Structure looks absoulutley Beautiful. See you used the blue painters tape method to fill the corners. A suggestion: instead of using the wet plaster and a putty knife use the lightweigt dry stuff and your finger. It works really well and there is absolutely no mess. Like your colors and weathering. what exactly is Liquid Lesding from Jo-Ann Fabrics? Let me know what it is and what you use it for OK.
Thanks:
Karl
Thanks Karl! Liquid Leading is something Dave K. turned me on to. If I'm not mistaken it's sister product to Aileen's Tacky Glue. It's black and can be used as tar/pitch in place of the Elmer's White Glue/Grimy Black mixture. I picked up a small dispenser with a tip on it (like the one that come with NorthEasterns Pink Flamingo Glue), put the Liquid Leading in that dispenser and I have tar/pitch at the ready on the work bench at all times in a dispenser that makes it really easy to apply exactly where I want it. :D
Hi Bob:
Thanks for the reply. I will go to Joann's Fabric and get some.
Thanks:
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on October 15, 2015, 07:36:54 AM
Hi Bob:
Thanks for the reply. I will go to Joann's Fabric and get some.
Thanks:
Karl
While you're there... Hal Reynolds said he got a package of 4 plastic needlepoint glue bottles at his Joanne's. (I didn't see them at mine, so I got them from Amazon.) I loaded Canopy Glue into one of those bottles, and it works great! NESL sold similar bottles with their Flamingo Glue.
dave
Hi Dave:
Thanks.
Karl