I waffled on whether or not to do a build thread on this build but I've taken the photo's, cropped them and uploaded them so why not? :D I'm building the Bar Mill's - Sokol's Furniture and Mattress Company kit for the SBG's Honory President and Chief Bottle Washer ACL1504.
The kit comes in two boxes. I'll let Tom relay the "tale of two boxes" if he so chooses. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090226-89601808.jpeg)
One box contains the laser cut components. It's quite a collection of stuff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090226-8986389.jpeg)
The other box contains the Instructions, casting and other assorted odds and ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-230815103555.jpeg)
I started the build by removing the plastic casting from the sprues using a sprue cutter. Some folks prefer to leave them on the sprue until after they're painted because they're easier to handle that way. My preference is to remove them and clean them up prior to painting them so I don't have to worry about touching up any spots with paint after the fact.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090227-8987892.jpeg)
After removing the plastic components from the sprue I touch up any rough spots with a quick swipe or two of an emery board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090227-89882003.jpeg)
There are some nice resin castings of stacks of lumber that only needed a tiny bit of smoothing on the bottom just to ensure they'd sit flat. I ran these over the emery board as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090227-89892212.jpeg)
More in a moment or two :)
Neat looking kit.....I'll be following along Bob. :)
I used a small file to clean up the metal castings included in the kit. The quality of the castings was pretty good so the cleanup was minimal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090511-8990182.jpeg)
After I cleaned up the plastic, resin and metal castings I went through the laser cut components and cut out and cleaned up anything I wanted to paint the door and trim colors. I took all of this and attached it to trays I use for painting using strips of blue painters tape that are taped sticky side up to the tray. When I airbrush these I don't want the spray from the airbrush to blow them around.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090512-8991799.jpeg)
I took one of my few remaining bottles of Floquil Primer :'( and, after thoroughly mixing the paint, unloaded nine eyedroppers full of paint into a metal mixing cup (okay, it's a measuring cup from the grocery store).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090512-8992893.jpeg)
To that I added three eyedroppers full of thinner. That gave the a 75% paint to 25% thinner mixture which works well in my airbrush.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090512-89931370.jpeg)
I mixed it up paint/thinner with my little electric paint mixer making sure to let the mixer come to STOP before removing it from the paint. You can easily envision what would happen if you didn't. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090512-89942430.jpeg)
I use a cheap home air compressor I bought on Amazon. It's also handy for pumping up the tires in the vehicles and assorted other odds and ends. It's cheaper than some of the more expensive hobby compressors and, since I do my painting outside, I don't really need the whisper quiet kind that shut off when you're not painting. This one does the trick for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090900-8995804.jpeg)
More in a few moments. :D
I'm painting out in the driveway, just outside my garage. I start by giving everything a coat, painting right to left and making sure I get all the 'bottom' edges. I don't worry about getting complete coverage of everything at this point although I try to get a nice thin coat on everything.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090900-8996885.jpeg)
I rotate the tray 90 degrees and again paint everything from right to left making sure I get the bottom edge (which was previously the left hand edge of the pieces prior to rotating the tray.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090900-89971563.jpeg)
I rotate the tray and paint two more times to make sure all the edges get painted. Afterwards I wait until the paint is dry enough to allow me to flip over the parts that and paint the bottom side. The only parts I didn't flip over are those that are from the peel and stick sheets since the bottom of those is the part that gets peeled away and tossed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090900-8998503.jpeg)
While the paint was drying I started on the walls. I found one wall had a piece broken off but that was easy to repair with just the tiniest amount of glue. I didn't want any glue squeezing out on the front where it would interfere with the stains and paints. There's a piece of bracing that goes behind this so I only needed to use enough glue to hold it in place until the bracing was glued behind it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815090900-8999691.jpeg)
I applied the bracing material per the instructions and weighed them down under some marble blocks (salvaged from old bowling trophies). The bracing material wasn't cut to length at this point. It overhangs the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091112-90002410.jpeg)
One thing I should have done differently on the bracing - On the top of each wall the instructions show to run a piece horizontally and the vertical pieces run up and butt into that. In the future I plan on running the vertical pieces from the bottom all the way to the top and then fitting the horizontal piece between them. Doing it the way the instructions show was faster but it allowed the walls to warp ever so slightly where the vertical braces but up against the horizontal piece. No biggie but it wouldn't have happened at all if I had done it the other way.
After the glue had set I removed the weights and trimmed the bracing to length using a single edge razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091112-90012474.jpeg)
That's all for now! Time to run to the grocery store then mow the lawn (maybe) and then get back to the work bench! :D
THE TAIL OF THE TWO BOXES:
The following is a true story and no fake names were used to hide the identity of those involved.
A couple of years ago I was going through my kits and saw two boxes for Bar Mills Sokol's Furniture and Mattress. Since Reading Bob had built some kits for me at the time, now it's several more kits, I decided to give him one of my Sokol's.
A few weeks later when Bob came over for one of the SBG meeting, he brought back the box. I saw it and said, "Do you already have the kit?" He said no and added that I gave him box two of two. You see, Sokol's came in two boxes for one kit.
I sure felt like a dunce but I'll tell ya'll this.
It's hell to get old.
Tom ;D
Your off to a great start! This kit took me a while but I went slow and the results are great, this is one massive, beefy looking structure when done. The window frames are delicate so be careful. I read the instructions carefully and fully to make sure I didnt miss anything. This is one of the best kits Bar Mills has ever done, in my opinion.
Bob C.
I'll be watching your progress, Bob. Oh - and great story Tom!
Cheers, Mark.
Bob,
Looking good. I always liked this kit. Looking forward to your progress.
Frank
I'll be following along.
Bob, always looking in and its getting interesting.
Quote from: rpdylan on August 23, 2015, 12:55:55 PM
Your off to a great start! This kit took me a while but I went slow and the results are great, this is one massive, beefy looking structure when done. The window frames are delicate so be careful. I read the instructions carefully and fully to make sure I didnt miss anything. This is one of the best kits Bar Mills has ever done, in my opinion.
Bob C.
Hi Bob,
I saw the photo you posted of your build on the daily thread and you did an absolutely wonderful job on this one! With regards to the window frames, did you follow the instructions and spray the back of them with an adhesive spray to attach them to the glass?
Thanks for following along!
Thanks to everyone who is looking in and following all. :D I appreciate all the comments, tips, ideas, suggestions, stories, etc. that you all post. This is a neat looking structure and an interesting kit.
In the instructions it says it's not recommended for beginners and I'd have to agree with that. There's a lot to it and, being a five sided structure, it's not as simple as forming 90 degree corners when attaching the walls to one another (I haven't gotten to that point yet).
I'll post more progress pictures as soon as I make some progress on the build. ::)
Hi Bob:
looking good so far. I have one of those around somewhere. It's a lot of work. Lots of pieces to assemble.
Have fun:
Karl
I had put the window frames on some blue painters tape, then sprayed the backs with 3M adhesive. then with the windows still on the strip of tape, I put them on a sheet of THIN clear styrene. After they were dried, i took the tape off and carefully cut out the windows/acetate with a new SHARP #11 blade. years on, they are still together. I left the tilted windows out of the walls until the entire structure was completed- then I put a small dab of sticky glue on each side of the window- outer edge of frame- in the center and using tweezers, slid them into the openings at a slight angle and then rotated level. If I remember, they were a bit of a tight fit. I put the walls together over the templates- I cut some inside corner brackets from some strips of bracing material, using the template as a guide for the angles.
You are correct, this kit is a bit advanced as you will use techniques learned from building smaller kits
Quote from: rpdylan on August 24, 2015, 08:39:35 AM
I had put the window frames on some blue painters tape, then sprayed the backs with 3M adhesive. then with the windows still on the strip of tape, I put them on a sheet of THIN clear styrene. After they were dried, i took the tape off and carefully cut out the windows/acetate with a new SHARP #11 blade. years on, they are still together. I left the tilted windows out of the walls until the entire structure was completed- then I put a small dab of sticky glue on each side of the window- outer edge of frame- in the center and using tweezers, slid them into the openings at a slight angle and then rotated level. If I remember, they were a bit of a tight fit. I put the walls together over the templates- I cut some inside corner brackets from some strips of bracing material, using the template as a guide for the angles.
You are correct, this kit is a bit advanced as you will use techniques learned from building smaller kits
Thanks for the prompt reply. :) I'll give the 3M adhesive a try when I get to that step. I was planning on not installing the tilted windows until the structure is just about complete so as to avoid knocking them out while working on it. ;)
Quote from: postalkarl on August 24, 2015, 07:32:33 AM
Hi Bob:
looking good so far. I have one of those around somewhere. It's a lot of work. Lots of pieces to assemble.
Have fun:
Karl
Thanks for checking in Karl. I figured you'd have built this one. :D
Good start, Bob. I thought I built this kit just few days ago but it turns out I did it back in 2011. You may want to check the height of all wall sections. It may not be the same and it is much easier to adjust early on.
I am in the process of moving and few days ago I found two trays. I couldn't remember what was the reason I got them for in the first place. After checking your thread I am guessing I bought them for holding all the detail parts :).
Vilius
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Hey Donato.....go a little easier on the "Master" stuff. If Bob's head gets to big, he won't be able to get in the door to Tom's shed to deliver all those great builds. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 25, 2015, 09:03:48 AM
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Hey Donato.....go a little easier on the "Master" stuff. If Bob's head gets to big, he won't be able to get in the door to Tom's shed to deliver all those great builds. ;D ;D ;D
...he can always walk in "sideways" ....!!!
Quote from: TheUkranian on August 24, 2015, 11:27:13 AM
Good start, Bob. I thought I built this kit just few days ago but it turns out I did it back in 2011. You may want to check the height of all wall sections. It may not be the same and it is much easier to adjust early on.
I am in the process of moving and few days ago I found two trays. I couldn't remember what was the reason I got them for in the first place. After checking your thread I am guessing I bought them for holding all the detail parts :).
Vilius
Thanks for the tip Vilius. I'll make sure the check the walls before I assemble them. Thanks for following along.
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Thanks Donato and thanks for following along. I'll try to share what I've learned from everybody else. :D
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 25, 2015, 09:03:48 AM
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Hey Donato.....go a little easier on the "Master" stuff. If Bob's head gets to big, he won't be able to get in the door to Tom's shed to deliver all those great builds. ;D ;D ;D
Okay, that's enough outta you. :-X Put Tom's body armor back on. ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 07:33:24 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 25, 2015, 09:03:48 AM
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Hey Donato.....go a little easier on the "Master" stuff. If Bob's head gets to big, he won't be able to get in the door to Tom's shed to deliver all those great builds. ;D ;D ;D
Okay, that's enough outta you. :-X Put Tom's body armor back on. ;D
What?
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 27, 2015, 07:53:31 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 07:33:24 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 25, 2015, 09:03:48 AM
Quote from: Donato on August 24, 2015, 01:14:51 PM
Bob, I'm following like a star-struck puppy. I plan on learning a whole bunch from the master.
Hey Donato.....go a little easier on the "Master" stuff. If Bob's head gets to big, he won't be able to get in the door to Tom's shed to deliver all those great builds. ;D ;D ;D
Okay, that's enough outta you. :-X Put Tom's body armor back on. ;D
What?
Faster than a speeding bullet, able to leap tall buildings in a single bound and who disguised as ACL1504 & ReadingBob fights for truth, justice and the American way of modeling in the 50's...... ;D ;D ;D
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:23:07 AM
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for bringing that up that story again Bob.....I'm still having nightmares about all the people who offered you shotguns, buffalo rifles, AK47's, bazookas, shoulder fired ground to ground missiles and even an Abrams tank. :o
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 09:32:23 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:23:07 AM
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for bringing that up that story again Bob.....I'm still having nightmares about all the people who offered you shotguns, buffalo rifles, AK47's, bazookas, shoulder fired ground to ground missiles and even an Abrams tank. :o
Don't feel too bad Greg. The Judge didn't offer anything. However that may have been because he was too busy laughing. ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:34:06 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 09:32:23 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:23:07 AM
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for bringing that up that story again Bob.....I'm still having nightmares about all the people who offered you shotguns, buffalo rifles, AK47's, bazookas, shoulder fired ground to ground missiles and even an Abrams tank. :o
Don't feel too bad Greg. The Judge didn't offer anything. However that may have been because he was too busy laughing. ;D
Oh, I have a plethora of friends! ;D 8) ::)
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 10:40:58 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:34:06 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 09:32:23 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:23:07 AM
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for bringing that up that story again Bob.....I'm still having nightmares about all the people who offered you shotguns, buffalo rifles, AK47's, bazookas, shoulder fired ground to ground missiles and even an Abrams tank. :o
Don't feel too bad Greg. The Judge didn't offer anything. However that may have been because he was too busy laughing. ;D
Oh, I have a plethora of friends! ;D 8) ::)
Greg,
We're always willing to help. Next time you come over please feel to slip on the body armour. It's Kevlar reinforced on the back just in case we turn you around! 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 27, 2015, 11:29:49 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 10:40:58 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:34:06 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 27, 2015, 09:32:23 AM
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 27, 2015, 09:23:07 AM
Okay, for those wondering what the joke is (including Tom ;) ) when were at Tom's place on Saturday Greg picked up the vest Tom hangs on one of the chairs in is train room and tried it on. Being retired law enforcement you can guess what type of vest it is. When Greg tried on the vest I inquired as to whether anyone had a pistol handy so we could try it out to see if worked. Several people jumped a the chance to offer me one. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for bringing that up that story again Bob.....I'm still having nightmares about all the people who offered you shotguns, buffalo rifles, AK47's, bazookas, shoulder fired ground to ground missiles and even an Abrams tank. :o
Don't feel too bad Greg. The Judge didn't offer anything. However that may have been because he was too busy laughing. ;D
Oh, I have a plethora of friends! ;D 8) ::)
Greg,
We're always willing to help. Next time you come over please feel to slip on the body armour. It's Kevlar reinforced on the back just in case we turn you around! 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Not a chance.....back against the block walls at all times. ;D
Okay, okay. Enough messin' with Greg. ;D Back to the build.
After the walls were braced I stained them with Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix. This is the first of several layers of finish that will be applied to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091112-90021413.jpeg)
I painted the inside of the walls with grimy black. Any flat black will do. I did this because I hope to light this one up so I don't want the walls to 'glow'.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091112-90031758.jpeg)
The next layer of paint on the exterior of the walls was Polly Scale Reefer White. I dip my brush in water first, then the paint and start painting the walls. I want a relatively even coat of paint but I don't want a thick coat of paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091112-90042151.jpeg)
As I'm painting the walls absorb some of the paint and the light gray stain underneath peeks through. That's what I want.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-220815091148.jpeg)
I mentioned earlier that I wished I had braced the walls a little differently than the instructions suggested. As a result of my painting the top section of a few of the walls warped outward ever so slightly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083412-92252174.jpeg)
To correct that problem I removed a section of the horizontal bracing, just above the vertical bracing, where it wouldn't interfere with the assembly of the building and glued two scrap pieces of bracing material to the wall with 5 minute epoxy and a few clamps.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083412-9230564.jpeg)
More in a moment...
Here's my repair after the glue dried. Not purty. :o
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083412-92312408.jpeg)
But relatively effective. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083413-92321804.jpeg)
Now it's time to start weathering. I usually use a cheap craft store acrylic applied by dabbing a sponge in it, removing most of the paint from the sponge and then dabbing the sponge on the walls and parts that represent painted wood (doors, window frames, etc.). I did it even though I had decided to leave the doors and windows in Floquil Primer I had used. I wasn't sure light gray on Floquil Primer would be effective or even worth the effort but it did make a difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083413-92332499.jpeg)
I did the walls too. The light gray on the reefer white is a little easier to see, but not much. This is a fairly effective way to represent where the upper layers of paint have peeled or faded away to the point that the underlying primer is visible.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083719-92341969.jpeg)
Just like the TV commercials, "But wait! There's more!" :D I repeated this dry sponging process with a cheap Khaki Tan to represent where the raw wood may have been exposed. These guys really need to get out there and put a new coat of paint on their factory.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083719-92351146.jpeg)
I did the walls too with the Khaki Tan. Typically I only do one color with this treatment. But two or more are effective as well. Especially if you want to represent a building that was painted different colors over the year and in need of a fresh coat of paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083720-9236465.jpeg)
More in a moment...
I also used the Khaki Tan as a wash for the detail castings that represent bundles of lumber. After priming them I painted them with a cheap craft store acrylic "Light Buttercup". Then I gave them a thin wash of the Khaki Tan. After that a very thin wash of a Raw Sienna.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083720-9237279.jpeg)
I painted the straps with Gun Metal. These aren't done yet, however, more layers to be applied later along with some dry bushing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083720-92381163.jpeg)
Next all the detail parts, which I had painted, got dipped or brushed with a light A&I mix. Another layer. Ideally this dries down in the cracks and crevices to represent shadows and make the textures stand out. It also tones everything down a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083920-9239525.jpeg)
Dry brushing! A technique that's really worth the effort in my humble opinion. I use another cheap craft store acrylic, Ivory White, which it close to Floquils Antique White which I used to use. Ah, I remember the days of dry brushing with Floquil. Very smelly and very unforgiving. The craft store acrylics are just as effective and, if you over do it, can be removed with a quick rub of the thumb or a by wiping the piece with a wet (water or plain rubbing alcohol) paper towel. Plus they don't stink up the joint. The idea behind dry brushing is to load the bristles with paint and then remove most of the paint by brushing on pieces of scrap material (I use post-it note pads for a this and a lot of other things). Once you get the brush prepared you dry brush the part. I prefer light to heavy. I just want to high light the edges. I've heard that this simulates where the effect of the light hitting the edges. I just know it really makes the details pop. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083920-92401785.jpeg)
Time to add some more texture to the walls. Using an X-Acto with a chisel blade I slide the blade under some clapboards and lifted them slightly to represent loose clapboards. In a few instances I twisted the blade a little bit and broke off a sliver of the clapboard. How much you do this depends on how weather beaten and in ill repair you want your finished structure to be. I didn't go hog wild with the splintering clapboards on this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083920-9241881.jpeg)
Next I added nail holes using a ponce wheel and a straight edge. I first added rows to the ends and along side the windows. Then I added rows roughly every two scale feet where there were big gaps between the windows. Some people don't like this effect. I do. Go with what ya' like. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083921-92421720.jpeg)
More in a moment...
After the walls were beaten up and the nail hole were applied I brushed them with my A&I mix. I have no formula for the A&I mix. I mix up a dark mix right in the bottle of 90% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and keep that in the garage. As I need to refill these little bottles I cut it with some virgin 90% Alcohol to lighten it up. In this case, I knew the walls were going to be Reefer White and I need to replenish my supply so I cut it a little bit more than normal to lighten it up. It goes on dark but will lighten up as it dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915083921-9243647.jpeg)
Here's a wall after everything has dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915084019-92441085.jpeg)
Okay last picture for today and the end of my rambling on. Here's one of the detail parts I had painted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-190915084019-9245459.jpeg)
I first painted this with Model Masters Aluminum. After that dried I gave it a wash with Model Masters Black Detail Wash. When that dried I then gave it a wash of very, very thin Burnt Sienna (craft store acrylic). Then the A&I and then the dry brushing. I don't have heavy streaks of white on this from the dry brushing. Just enough to make edges stand out. But, as with most things we do, it's a personal preference thing. Do what looks good to you and have fun doing it!
I hope to get back to work on this one this weekend. Next up I'll be adding the signs to the walls then installing the doors and window frames. After that I think I'll be able to start assembling the walls to see what it's really going to look like! :D
Thanks for following along!
Okay, no more messing around Bob.....the wall are looking good, can't wait to see it all done. 8)
Looks great. Excellent detail - I learn something every time. Thanks.
John
Quote from: Cuse on September 19, 2015, 10:24:16 AM
Looks great. Excellent detail - I learn something every time. Thanks.
John
Bob,
Beautiful work on Sokol's. It's going to look really fantastic when all is finished.
Tom ;D
Great stuff Bob , love following this.
Thanks Greg, John, Tom and Jan! It's a fun build. I'm still pondering my approach to a few sections. Particularly the loading docks. I need to take a closer look at the materials provided. I may avoid stains if they look like they might warp and use chalks or Pan Pastels to color them. We'll see. I'm taking my time but I am anxious to make progress on this. The Red Light District is up next and I can't wait to get started on that one. :D
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 20, 2015, 11:37:57 AM
Thanks Greg, John, Tom and Jan! It's a fun build. I'm still pondering my approach to a few sections. Particularly the loading docks. I need to take a closer look at the materials provided. I may avoid stains if they look like they might warp and use chalks or Pan Pastels to color them. We'll see. I'm taking my time but I am anxious to make progress on this. The Red Light District is up next and I can't wait to get started on that one. :D
Bob,
I'm waiting on your Red Light District as well. It will be a fantastic build and is a fantastic kit. It will be a couple of years before I get to mine.
Tom ;D
Hio Bob:
The wall looks great. Perfect light weathering.
karl
Quote from: postalkarl on October 01, 2015, 07:39:31 AM
Hio Bob:
The wall looks great. Perfect light weathering.
karl
Thanks Karl. I'm be lying if I said you're work hasn't had a big influence on me. Especially when it comes to the degree of weathering I apply to walls. :D
It's been a while since I've posted an update but I have gotten a little more done on this build so let's try to get caught up. The signs that come with this kit are on a sheet that's included in the instructions. There are lot's of choices provided, which is a nice little feature if you want to change the colors up. Kudo's to Bar Mills for that. I used a steel straight edge and an X-Acto with a new blade in it to cut our the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200517-93002307.jpeg)
The instructions say you don't need to do this but I like to sand the back of the signs, working from the center outward, using some very fine sandpaper. I'm trying to get the paper a little bit thinner before I apply the sign to the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200517-9381210.jpeg)
For these signs I applied a very thin layer of thinned white glue and water to the back of the sign by smearing it on with finger tip. I keep a paper towel handy so I can wipe my finger off before touching the sign to apply it to the building. An alternative, that I know Karl favors, is 3M Transfer Tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200518-9382368.jpeg)
As I smear the thinned glue on I'm careful to not get any on the front of the sign. The benefit of the Transfer Tape is you don't have to worry about that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200518-93831307.jpeg)
With the glue in place I position the sign on the wall and press it down. If any glue oozes out I wipe it off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200518-93841856.jpeg)
Fortunately I was in need of a trim so I used my fingernail to carefully burnish the sign in place along the seams of the clapboards. I didn't do it this time but a clear sheet of plastic placed on top of the sign will help protect the sign from tearing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200746-93851215.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
While waiting for glue to dry on the signs I decided I'd better stain the remaining strip wood. I used Hunterline Light Gray weathering mix (purchased at the EXPO) and a little bathtub I made out of PVC pipe to make quick work of this. After sorting the strip wood by size (it's rather important to do so) I gave each size and individual bath by dropping it in, letting it soak for a few minutes....
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200746-93862439.jpeg)
...and then fishing it out with some tweezers. I then spread it out to dry and labeled it by size. The color codes on the end of the strip wood can be hard to decipher after it's been stained.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200746-9387591.jpeg)
Okay, now we have some weathered wall but the signs are nice, fresh and a little too neat looking. They don't match the walls so it's time to do something about that. I started by brushing them with light A&I mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015200746-93882487.jpeg)
Then I dry sponged them with the same light gray and khaki craft paints that I used to weather the walls. This really helps to blend them in and make them look like they were painted onto the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201431.jpeg)
Now it's time to assemble the walls. Normally I'd install the windows, doors, vents, etc. before I do this but this structure is an odd one with five walls so it will require a little more handling and fitting than normal and I don't want to worry about knocking that stuff off. The walls that meet one another at 90 degree angles are glued together first (with the entire structure upside down).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201008-9390650.jpeg)
The remaining walls need to have their edge mitered to attach at an angle. The instructions recommend using a mini plane, which I picked up at Home Depot, for the initial work followed by some sanding. That helped but you have to be a little bit careful with it. Especially near the ends.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201009-93911158.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
The two front walls have had their edges mitered and now it's time to glue them together at the correct (I hope) angle using the formers included in the kit and the template in the instructions as a guide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201009-9392718.jpeg)
Now it's time to attach the front (anyway I guess it's the front :P ) wall assembly to the three walls that were glued together earlier. I had to remove a cross brace I had added to those three walls to get the front to fit nice and neat. Not a big deal, I needed to remove it anyway to drop lights into the structure when I get around to lighting it. More formers are used to keep the angles close to correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201009-93932007.jpeg)
At this point the instructions say to drink a beer if you drink beer. Who am I to not follow instructions? ;D Looks pretty good doesn't it? The structure, not the beer. Okay, the beer too. Anyway, there's a problem with the structure. I'll get to that in a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201009-93942019.jpeg)
Time to assemble the foundation. There were a lot of corners to miter on this one too. It has to match the structure of course. Some of the joints will be hidden by the loading docks so there's no reason to be overly fussy with them unless your obsessed with such things. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201248-93951015.jpeg)
Okay, the problem with the structure. No, it's not the little corner of the wall that I ripped off with the plane. That'll be covered up with trim later on. It's actually the lower wall itself. I kind of, sort of, knew that it wasn't right when I braced it, painted it and weather it. Had I looked ahead I would confirmed it before getting this far. The problem, which is really hard to see, is that the wall was cut upside down. The clapboards run the wrong way. From any distance it looks fine. I left it this way for a few days but I just couldn't do it. It bugged me and I had to correct it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201248-9396372.jpeg)
I'm 100% certain that had I (or Tom) contacted Bar Mills we would have had a new wall ASAP. But I happened to have some clapboard siding in my stash that was a perfect match for what's used in this kit so I cut out a new wall, braced it and weathered it. If it had been any wall other than one with only three large door openings I would have contacted Bar Mills for a replacement. No way would I want to cut out a bunch of window openings like Jan did on his grain elevator build. :D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201248-93971089.jpeg)
More in a moment...
Removing the upside down wall was easy work using a single edge razor blade. With the right side wall in place now I can sleep better at night. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201248-9398828.jpeg)
Time to start the loading docks. I debated, with myself, whether to stain the parts prior to assembly or after the fact. Normally I like to stain first but I talked myself out of it and went with after the face, which is what the instructions recommend. I had to identify the parts for each dock, remove them from the sheets and assemble them using either the peel and stick materials and/or glue. I found it best to locate the parts for one particular section first, assemble it and them move on to the next. If you gathered up all the parts for all the docks at one time you'd probably have a hard time figuring out which was which.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201248-9399277.jpeg)
More loading dock assembly. Using a mini angle to get the legs on straight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201352-9400929.jpeg)
Still working on the various loading docks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-111015201353-9401606.jpeg)
That's all the pictures I've uploaded so I guess now's a good time to stop. ;D Hopefully the next update won't take nearly as long to appear as this one did.
Thanks for following along!
An old trip I remember from high school wood shop (A Long Time Ago) is to butt a piece of wood up against that edge when planing, so if the plane chips off something, it comes from the sacrificial wood, rather than the model.
I like those spring clamps for bracing and for laminating sheeting to subwalls. You can't have too many clamps!
dave
Great work so far,Bob. Nice job on the signs.
Jeff
Bob,
Wonderful job on the build. I'm very sorry you have had the trouble with the kit. I'll replace the clapboard and of course you can get from my staff of Slim's LED's for what you will be using. Now I know for sure you'll never buy lunch again.
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on October 17, 2015, 01:19:24 PM
An old trip I remember from high school wood shop (A Long Time Ago) is to butt a piece of wood up against that edge when planing, so if the plane chips off something, it comes from the sacrificial wood, rather than the model.
I like those spring clamps for bracing and for laminating sheeting to subwalls. You can't have too many clamps!
dave
Great tip Dave! Thanks for sharing. I store those spring clamps right on the power cord for the Ott light on my work bench. They are really handy and use then quite often.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 17, 2015, 04:56:54 PM
Great work so far,Bob. Nice job on the signs.
Jeff
Thanks Dr. Jeff! Great to have you following along. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 17, 2015, 08:52:49 PM
Bob,
Wonderful job on the build. I'm very sorry you have had the trouble with the kit. I'll replace the clapboard and of course you can get from my staff of Slim's LED's for what you will be using. Now I know for sure you'll never buy lunch again.
Tom ;D
Don't worry about the wall Tom. Like I mentioned, I'm sure if we had asked the Bar Mill's guys would have had one in the mail ASAP. Don't worry about replacing the clapboard. That's the first time I used it and it only took a small piece. I think I bought five sheets of it so I have plenty left. :D
When stuff happens, it's all about the recovery.....good work Bob. 8)
Hi Bob:
Looks like its coming along nicely. That is A complicated kit. It has lots of parts. Continue on and good luck with your build.
Karl
Time for an update on this one. Well, maybe past due time for an update. ::)
Next up I assemble the various doors. Most are made up of layers and the trim components use the 'peel and stick' stuff. I had painted the doors with Floquil Primer and the trim with Polly Scale Reefer Gray and weather them before assembly. First I peeled off the backing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094548-98242390.jpeg)
Okay, this is just me. I don't totally trust the peel and stick stuff so I add a few small dots of glue to the back of the trim piece before attaching it to door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094804-9995849.jpeg)
Then I position it in place and wipe off any glue that might ooze out. I know, if I didn't add the glue I wouldn't have to do that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094804-9996627.jpeg)
Next up I attached all the loading docks to the oddly shaped foundation. They fit really well. I was quite happy with the end result. At this point they haven't been stained yet. I did that after they were glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094804-9997513.jpeg)
Back to the doors. I attached the precut 'glass' planes (after spraying one side of the glass with DullCoat and allowing it to dry) to the doors using MicroScale Industries Micro Kystal Klear as glue. I also use this stuff as glass but it works well for gluing glass planes in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094804-99981244.jpeg)
Now that the doors are together I wanted to glue them in place prior to attaching the structure to the foundation. I figured it'd be easier to clamp them in place, when necessary, while the foundation is not attached.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115094804-99991328.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Hi Bob:
Hey looking great so far. It is a rather complicated kit. I know what you mean. I wouldn't have slept well with an upside down wall either. anyway great work so far.
Karl
This picture is similar to the last one I posted but from a lower angle. It gives you a good sense for how unusual the shape of this structure is.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095055-100001694.jpeg)
Next up I assembled the cornice. Like the doors this is a multi layer component that uses some peel and stick materials.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095055-100011208.jpeg)
And, like the doors, I added a little glue here and there in spite of the peel and stick backing. ::)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095055-100021901.jpeg)
When the cornice pieces are assembled they need to be glued to the top edge of the walls. 45 degree angles need to be sanded for the normal corners and, for the odd angled corners there was some trial and error involved. I used an old NWSL True Sander and took my time to get everything to fit as best I could.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095055-100031055.jpeg)
Overall I was pretty happy with the cornice when I was done. I was a bit worried about it going into this step but it wasn't as bad as I had feared it would be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095055-10004643.jpeg)
Next it was time to move on to the shed and skylight that go on the roof. These are kits within a kit but I won't go into too much detail on either. I'll just highlight one or two things about them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095319-100051373.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
Quote from: postalkarl on November 27, 2015, 08:41:57 AM
Hi Bob:
Hey looking great so far. It is a rather complicated kit. I know what you mean. I wouldn't have slept well with an upside down wall either. anyway great work so far.
Karl
Thanks Karl! It's been a fun one overall. I hope it's worthy of a place on Tom's layout when I done with it.
The little shed on the roof has a small water tank on top of it. A nice little option the builder is given is to wrap the tank in boards and then attach bands around the boards or to wrap it with a Sokol's sign. I opted for the sight. I cut the sign out and lightly weathered it to tone it down a bit and then stuck it on some 3M transfer tape and trimmed the tape to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095319-100061159.jpeg)
I made sure the sign was the exact height of the tank so there'd be no overhand and trimmed it, length wise, so it would just reach around the tank and touch itself. I did all that before removing the backing for the 3M Transfer Tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095319-10007308.jpeg)
Time to peel off the backing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095319-100081027.jpeg)
Then I carefully wrapped the tank with the sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095319-10009686.jpeg)
Both the shed and the skylight come with cardstock roofs. The instructions note that these are to be painted. There's no additional roofing material to apply to them. I have some roofing paper I picked up a the Expo last year so I opted to use that on both. I glued the cardstock roofs in place (after painting the underside my trim color and applying 3M Transfer Tape to them).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095522-10010890.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
I peeled off the backing for the 3M Transfer Tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095522-10011434.jpeg)
Then positioned a sheet of the roofing material in place and pressed it down so it would stick to the adhesive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095522-10012420.jpeg)
Then I trimmed it to fit with a pair of Friskar Micro Shears.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-261115095522-100131485.jpeg)
That's it for today. I also started a separate thread, Lighting Bar Mills Sokol's Furniture and Mattress Company (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1682.msg35756;topicseen#new), over in the Lighting Your Model board if you're interest in how I'm going to go about lighting up this kit.
Thanks for following along!
Quote from: ReadingBob on November 27, 2015, 08:47:56 AM
Thanks Karl! It's been a fun one overall. I hope it's worthy of a place on Tom's layout when I done with it.
Bob, are you kidding me? All your structures get prime real estate locations on the Atlantic & Southern RR.
Beautiful job on the kit.
Tom ;D
Hi All:
WOW!!!! Bob isd using double faced 3M tape. I wondwer how he likes it.
Karl
Great build Bob. Just a note on the extra dabs of glue on the peel and stick , it doesn't stick better with the glue , actually I found the opposite , the 2 glues don't work well together. Plus I have never had peel and stick let loose.
Karl - I like the transfer tape for applying roofing. :D
Jan - I have had peel and stick stuff come loose but typically it's the peel and stick shingle material that comes in some of these kits. I guess that stuff is made with a different 'sticky' material.
Back to the build. Speaking of peel and stick that's what the main roof is made from. I peeled off the protective material. You can see where the shed and skylight are supposed to go based on scribed lines in the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-291115183649-100892170.jpeg)
You can see where the shed and skylight are supposed to go based on scribed lines in the roof. When I got further along it the build I noticed that my shed is in a different location then the one pictures in the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-291115183650-1009047.jpeg)
Next I positioned the shed in place (following the guidelines ::) ).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-291115183650-100911147.jpeg)
After the shed and skylight were in place I sprinkled the black roofing material included in the kit over the exposed sticky surface and pressed it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-291115183650-100922294.jpeg)
The black roof looked a little too black and uniform so I went over it with some powders and a spray of Dullcoat to tone it down and make it a little less uniform.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102153-104631712.jpeg)
Moving on to another part of the build I constructed the supports for the overhang. This is a fairly straight forward assembly done over a template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102153-104641883.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
The loading dock has four notches built into it that the overhang supports fit in. They're a little bit long (on purpose) so I positioned it in place and used a razor blade to mark where each support needed to be cut for a proper fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102153-10465422.jpeg)
Egad! :o That's a lot of windows and glazing. Per the instructions I saved these for last. The frames are already installed in the structure but some of these will be installed in an open position so it's recommended that they be put in last lest they be knocked out while handling the structure during the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102153-10466698.jpeg)
I've never used this stuff before but the instructions (and Bob C. if I'm not mistaken) recommend using 3M 77 Multi-purpose Adhesive spray glue to coat the back of the mullions and install the glass panes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102153-104671510.jpeg)
I did four at a time. I sprayed them with the glue (outdoors).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102413-104681487.jpeg)
And then positioned the panes of glass (Dullcoated side down) onto the mullions while the adhesive was tacky.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102413-104691160.jpeg)
I ran the back of my curved tweezers over the glass to make sure it was seated on the mullion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102413-1047091.jpeg)
I have to admit I was bit apprehensive about this step but it went smoothly and everything held together quite well. :D
More in a moment... :D
I installed the windows and then glued the rest of the detail parts in place. I added some scraps of strip wood and did a little touch of weathering powder here and there and declared this one finished! ;D
Here are some final photo's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102413-10471249.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102413-104721762.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102622-104731091.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102622-10474469.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102622-104752241.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102623-10476572.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102623-104771681.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215102658-10478397.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215101524-104591731.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215101524-104602316.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215101524-10461992.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-231215101524-10462855.jpeg)
Thanks for following along! :D :D :D Time to move on to the next build! ;D ;D ;D
AWEESOME 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
Jim
Bob,
Unbelievable build, wonderful looking structure and the lighting is fantastic. I'm speechless.
Tom ;D
Bob,
All I can say is .....
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flibrary.ndsu.edu%2Fgrhc%2Fhistory_culture%2Flawrence_welk%2Fimages%2Fwelk3.jpg&hash=fdb3ac10d8798fe96207e43decbadcc1b1cc9575)
WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL.....
Mighty fine work Bob. I would expect nothing less.
Awesome Bob, absolutely great looking building.
Very nice build, Bob! I love the shape of this structure, my only problem is that each side looks so cool its hard to choose which way to face it!
Bob C
Great build, Bob. Thanks for letting us follow along.
Jeff
Terrific work Bob.....love the lighting. 8)
Thanks to everyone for the all the kind comments. This was a challenging, but fun, build. ;D
Excellent work Bob!!
8)
This sets a high bar for my roundhouse lighting!
dave
Hi Bob:
WOW really great job on the kit. Love the finish on the structure and the lighting.
Karl
Thanks Andy, Dave and Karl! I really appreciate the comments.
Dave - I'm looking forward to seeing your roundhouse all lit up. That's going to be quite a sight. 8)
Hi Bob:
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nicely done I especially like the lighting. Thanks for all the great photos.
karl.
Nice job Bob! I really like how it turned out.
How did you like using the spray-on adhesive for the windows? I used Future (or Pledge or whatever it goes by now) floor polish to attach my glazing on the WKLO kit that I'm working on. I like using that.
Now if only you can find a supplier for lighting stuff that doesn't gyp you on your order. ::)
-slim
Quote from: postalkarl on January 07, 2016, 09:52:28 AM
Hi Bob:
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nicely done I especially like the lighting. Thanks for all the great photos.
karl.
Thanks Karl! I really appreciate the comments. I'm very pleased with how the lighting worked out. I'm planning on delivering it to Tom (ACL1504) on Saturday. I'm looking forward to seeing it with some scenery, track, rolling stock, etc. around it when he gets it planted on the new A&S. :D
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 07, 2016, 11:04:26 AM
Nice job Bob! I really like how it turned out.
How did you like using the spray-on adhesive for the windows? I used Future (or Pledge or whatever it goes by now) floor polish to attach my glazing on the WKLO kit that I'm working on. I like using that.
Now if only you can find a supplier for lighting stuff that doesn't gyp you on your order. ::)
-slim
Thanks Slim!
I actually liked using the spray-on adhesive. I have tried the acrylic floor polish trick. The glazing for this kit was already cut to size so the entire process didn't take as long as I had feared it would and was relatively easy. WKLO is on the shelf. Somewhere. ::)
Hey! I like my supplier for lighting stuff. I think I'll stick with him. ;)
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 07, 2016, 03:46:12 PM
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 07, 2016, 11:04:26 AM
Nice job Bob! I really like how it turned out.
How did you like using the spray-on adhesive for the windows? I used Future (or Pledge or whatever it goes by now) floor polish to attach my glazing on the WKLO kit that I'm working on. I like using that.
Now if only you can find a supplier for lighting stuff that doesn't gyp you on your order. ::)
-slim
Thanks Slim!
I actually liked using the spray-on adhesive. I have tried the acrylic floor polish trick. The glazing for this kit was already cut to size so the entire process didn't take as long as I had feared it would and was relatively easy. WKLO is on the shelf. Somewhere. ::)
Hey! I like my supplier for lighting stuff. I think I'll stick with him. ;)
Fool.
Hey - check the window castings in WKLO. I was missing a sprue of four eight-lighters. Fortunately I had one from the remnants of a Tichy assortment pack. Those assortments are great to have on hand. Think I'll get another.
-slim
HI Bob:
Looks great. Not an easy kit. You did a great job with it.
Karl
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 24, 2015, 09:06:35 AM
Terrific work Bob.....love the lighting. 8)
It looks even more impressive in person.....it's a good idea to keep Slim as your lighting provider.....you'll keep the PC crowd happy by being kind to a senior citizen who's just trying to get by. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 11, 2016, 08:48:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 24, 2015, 09:06:35 AM
Terrific work Bob.....love the lighting. 8)
It looks even more impressive in person.....it's a good idea to keep Slim as your lighting provider.....you'll keep the PC crowd happy by being kind to a senior citizen who's just trying to get by. ;D ;D ;D
I agree with Greg. Solkol's can't be fully appreciated in the above shown photos. And, we need to keep Slim as our lighting provider.....otherwise he may want someone to burn something. Just saying.
Tom ;D
Bob,
Nice work on this build and the added light show to this model . 8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2016, 09:56:21 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 11, 2016, 08:48:26 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 24, 2015, 09:06:35 AM
Terrific work Bob.....love the lighting. 8)
It looks even more impressive in person.....it's a good idea to keep Slim as your lighting provider.....you'll keep the PC crowd happy by being kind to a senior citizen who's just trying to get by. ;D ;D ;D
I agree with Greg. Solkol's can't be fully appreciated in the above shown photos. And, we need to keep Slim as our lighting provider.....otherwise he may want someone to burn something. Just saying.
Tom ;D
Let's all be grateful that Slim doesn't insist on royalties whenever we use his lights.....just saying. ???
Karl, Greg, Tom L., Tom B. and Donato,
Once again thanks for all the comments. This one now resides in a temporary location on Tom's A&S while it awaits it's permanent home. My photography skills probably don't do it justice. I think it'll look even better when it's permanently planted and has track and scenery surrounding it. Kudo's to the folks at Bar Mills. It does look good from all sides. If it were going on my layout I'd have a hard time deciding which side to hide if I had to place it in a spot that would only allow it to be viewed from one side. I think Tom has a solution for that. ;)
Hi Bob:
You are quite welcome as always.
Karl