Hi all.
After working frantically on Fault Lines over the last little while, I have decided to move over to a diorama I started some time ago for my Tellynott home layout. My intention is to enter the diorama in the structure section of the NZ model railroading convention next Easter. I wanted something with some New Zealand interest, something that used a variety of materials, was based on a NZ prototype, and would fit on my layout - both physically and mood wise. It also needed to be within certain physical parameters in order to be able to be carry on luggage in case I fly to the convention. A BIG ask! However, when searching random sections of the library's non fiction section, as I am inclined to do from time to time, I stumbled across a book entitled 'Aerated water'. Within it was a large section on the 'C. L. Innes brewers, bottlers and aerated water manufacturers' factory in Hamilton, including several photographs from different angles. It was one of those times when you see a collection of pictures from different angles and go Wow! I have to build that! Interestingly, some months later, I found an aerial view of Hamilton and discovered a wonderful massed hodge podge of roof lines and types meeting at different angles and heights. I scanned the picture, enlarged the area, located it on a street map using surrounding features to help position it, went into Google maps street view, and discovered it was the very same C. L. Innes Aerated water Manufactures! The aerial view was so cool that I may well end up building this model twice!
I have 'flipped' the order of the structures horizontally to fit the site on my layout and have rotated the large corrugated iron structure at the back by 90 degrees. The two brick structures at right (one will be plastered) will be half relief to fit between the road and the backdrop (the road curves past parallel to the backdrop as it passes the last building at the right, whereas at the left end it is 8" or so away from the backdrop). The road is on a curve and the buildings will be angled slightly to fit this. I have also added one story to two of the structures. The structure(s) must be 'pertaining to railways' in order to be eligible for the Easter competition so I will add a lower section at the back of the weatherboard structure at the left end and add a loading platform on an angle with a rail siding (this I may remove at a later date as the track passing at this point is actually a main line). Apart from these slight changes, the sketch is actually very close to the original. Its nice to be excited about a new project!
Picture 1 - my sketch of the diorama.
Picture 2 - shows the plastic frame work that the buildings will sit on. The levels were a bit tricky as I had to make clearance for the curved track that runs underneath. The idea is that when it is finished, the whole industry (sitting on the plastic framework) will just lift off the diorama and onto my layout.
Picture 3 - I started the far end (modern addition added in 1930) with a DPM M T Arms hotel kit. I cut and spliced and filed out all the window openings to fit Tichy Train 6/6 lite windows to help achieve the 'factory' feel.
Picture 4 - shows the main bashing completed with one window in place and a nice new art deco front door in place. (The city of Napier in New Zealand was rebuilt after the large Hawke's bay earthquake in 1931, and almost all of the buildings are built in the art deco style - so I think this door should fit just fine for my 1930's time frame.)
Picture 5 - For the second masonry building I attacked a 'Gruesome casket' kit. This pic shows the windows in place (wooden framed as in the prototype) and a large sliding door. I made up a fancy top piece (and will do the same for the first structure). The walls will be painted to resemble cut stone, and I have a nice pic of a structure in Temuka (an hour and a half south of where I live) as a guide.
Picture 6 - Colouring will be based around the colour scheme used on the aerated water book front cover. This is the only colour used in the book, and I'm guessing some research was put in to establish the original colour scheme used by C. L. Innes & co. Ltd. Regardless, I think I can make it work, and its one less thing to decide.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Mark,
This will be fun to watch. Off to a great start and I'm really looking forward to the finished project.
Tom ;D
Part 2.
I mocked up all the wooden structures and the tin shed at back in cardboard, chose windows and doors for the two wooden structures and marked them in place. I turned the two masonry false front buildings into half relief structures, joined them together, added parapet walls, and mocked up a pitched roof for the left one. I made up a chimney for the complex from a Walthers red wing mill kit. I decided to leave a gap between the two masonry structures and the gabled weatherboard structure, and there will be steps leading up the a 2nd story door, bins, junk and the like.
Picture 1 - A view looking down the street from the right.
Picture 2 - A birds eye view from the left.
Picture 3 - This pic shows the parapet walls and the pitched roof.
Picture 4 - The angled roofs which will sit against the backdrop. The stack just fits in.
More uploading tomorrow night.
Cheers, Mark.
Wow Tom! You're up early! I thought everyone in the USA would be asleep while I got this up - but I see you have snuck a post in! Thanks for the comment - Its nice to be changing things up a bit! Actually, after the show, I promised myself a little break from modelling - but I don't think I can do it! This is me 'not modelling'!!! Right - I'm off to bed now. Enjoy today - its nearly tomorrow here!
Cheers, Mark.
That is one interesting looking scene Mark. I look forward to following along. 8)
I like where this is heading.
Thanks Gregory and Janbouli.
No uploading last night - I was a little stuffed after a hard day tying steel in the sun. 27C (81F) forecast for today which is pretty hot for this time of the year. Summer is on its way! I did gather my boxes of bits for the project and make a space on the table for the diorama - but I must clean up the garage before I start! Hopefully a bit more updating tonight.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 05, 2015, 05:24:09 AM
Wow Tom! You're up early! I thought everyone in the USA would be asleep while I got this up - but I see you have snuck a post in! Thanks for the comment - Its nice to be changing things up a bit! Actually, after the show, I promised myself a little break from modelling - but I don't think I can do it! This is me 'not modelling'!!! Right - I'm off to bed now. Enjoy today - its nearly tomorrow here!
Cheers, Mark.
Is this thought related to "today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday'? 8)
Hi guys.
BandOGuy - SouthPark did an episode of 'the day after the day after tomorrow'!
Well the next step was to get the corrugated iron shed ready and work on the first of the weatherboard structures. Here's some pictures.
Photo 1 - Here's the complex from the front. (I had to alter the photo for clarity and so the colours aren't the same as the real thing).
Photo 2 - One from the left.
Windows and roofs are just sitting in position in the shiplap structure. Walls are Southern green dry brushed with concrete, and trim is faithful old reefer white, with a medium wash of A/I immediately blotted off.
I cut out the window and door openings to the front wall of the other weatherboard structure. One of the trickier (and more interesting) ones I have done.
Photo 3 - The wall without windows and doors.
Photo 4 - Windows and doors added. 6 by 6's will attach to the corners.
Photo 5 - A photo of the original building, just to prove I'm not making it up! Note: I flipped my model horizontally to better suit my site.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hi again.
Next was cladding the 'tin shed'. All the corrugated iron is now on. I bent it around the corners which worked quite well. Just the ridge capping left to do. I make this from tin foil, double sided tape and fine plastic rod. I don't think I will put barge roll up from the fly rafters, although it might be fun to give it a try! We will see.
Photo 1 - Here is a picture showing the tin shed in position. The back part of the roof is cut at an angle to fit up against the backdrop. The iron is Campbell's. I cut it to length to fit the size of the roof and walls onto which it is to be installed if necessary, then use a blunt fine pointed compass to impress nail holes at 3' centres along the strip of iron, every second undulation - one row just up from the bottom, one a scale three foot up from here, and another if required. This process makes me go cross-eyed!!! I always do it when I have company - otherwise I start talking to myself! I leave off the top row as the lap of the iron above (or the ridge capping) will hide these. I then cut the iron into 3' wide strips. One score with a sharp knife, and then wiggle backwards and forwards a couple of times to snap. I mark the walls where the top of each row of iron is to be, and then cover in double sided tape. I remove the tape covering only as needed, always working from the bottom up to get the lap the right way around. The iron is put on with the nail hole indentations facing out to resemble lead headed nails. If you look at corrugated iron roofs in the prototype, unlike with weatherboard, the lead headed nails are always visible from some distance. I find it funny the way most modellers go to the trouble of putting nail holes in weatherboard siding when they usually aren't seen in the prototype, and yet don't bother with corrugated iron! I do both. I like rustic, but always struggle to make things too rustic! The iron is nailed to Dwangs (noggins) at specific spacings after all, and so it is important to me to try to keep the lead headed nails in some form of wiggly wobbly line.
Photo 2 - So here is the four structures which are presently in 3-D form (but still with a fair amount of finishing to do)
Photo 3- And here is the arrangement showing a card mock-up of the last building on the left
I made a travel box to take this model to the convention. When digging out all the relative information I found I had kept fairly good notes - like the colours used, both for the wall colours and dry brushing. I then went about working on the walls of the last structure to the left.
Photo 4 - The walls for the 2-D structure. The unseen walls are made of stiff card.
Photo 5 - A close up of the front wall with the doors and windows put in place (they still need dry brushing).
Photo 6 - And some signage (done previously) for the two masonry structures.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
It's looking good so far - I will be following the thread.
Hi guys.
Thanks, John. I hope I can keep the same sort of momentum that you seem to always have!
Well - a few developments. I did manage to have a small break - which was nice. Not so much from modelling, but from modelling with any real deadline. I tinkered away on a severe kit-bash of Campbell's Kings Cannery - just cutting and fitting corrugated iron.
News on the Innes diorama is that the Easter convention is again to be held in Wellington (instead of Auckland). This means half the travelling distance - and I think I might drive up. Its about 5 hours driving and then 3 hours with the car on the ferry. We were looking at hiring a car in Wellington, but taking mine will work out slightly cheaper and it will mean I am not confined so much on the size of the diorama. In truth I have been struggling a little with the confines - wanting to stretch things a little one way or the other for various reasons. And, of course, when you start considering stretching things a little - the little gets more and more (I'm sure there's a song in there somewhere!).
So... here are a couple of plans of two different scenarios.
Picture (plan) 1 - the simple design where I have stretched the length of the diorama very slightly to the left to allow room for half of a background structure bashed from a Heljan brewery. The only real issue with this is the half of the kit-bash having to be joined to the other half at a later date. It does mean that this diorama can be put in a box that I could travel with on the train and ferry. I find the shape somewhat sharp and angular.
Picture (plan) 2 - (roads/parking are shaded and the river is shown with diagonal lines. Vertical heights are shown on the road in inches.) - this one has been stretched significantly - but with that stretch comes more drama! Firstly the shape is very balanced and aesthetically pleasing to the eye. The drop down below ground level to the river adds another dimension. It gives the viewer several 'snapshots' - under the road bridge along the railway lines, under the road bridge along the river, under the factory walkover up the road. It also gives me the opportunity to finish off two more well underway models and - heaven forbid - start another one! (although it is a pretty cool one - and one I have been itching to start). There is no issue with building half a Heljan kit-bash as I will build all of it. The problems are the later splicing of the roads and the river.
Picture 3 - shows the Heljan kit-bash underway.
Photo 4 - shows the structure(s) behind the small lane - back left.
Photo 5 - shows the track side structure in front of the small lane.
Photo 6 - shows the narrowness of the structure(s) behind the lane.
What do you all think? I feel like I've talked myself into it(!) although I'd better talk to my travelling companion first. I would love to hear your thoughts.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Wonderful job on the structures. Each one is a masterpiece.
Tom ;D
I like your plan - splicing rivers and roads is much easier than structures. I think it will look great. I really like elevation changes.
looking great so far , enjoy following this build
Hi guys.
Thanks for your comments Tom, John and Janbouli - much appreciated! I'm quite excited about this new diorama. As I try to mark things out it is becoming pretty obvious that even at only 600mm wide precise work at the back of the layout would be at the least a huge pain if not impossible. And so this diorama was inevitable. That makes the cutting out a large piece of the layout much easier to start! This whole city section of the layout is all built on 40mm polystyrene and 18mm ceiling tiles on top of 16mm MDF. Which means I just have to get a hand saw in horizontally and cut the polystyrene off the MDF. Sounds easy when you say it, right? Mmmm!
OK - so I have to make sure the track all lines up and doesn't foul on the building supports. There is also a curved turnout to contend with which shoots a track off to my future hidden cassette. I then had to place all the buildings (including the ones in front of this diorama) to make sure clearances were sufficient and that things looked visually good. I then cut up some thin road widths of polystyrene and 'eyed' a nice curve in the road. This is a technique I learned in my cobblestone laying days. I decided to move the main part of Skeeters fly dope to the right allowing room for vehicles to get to the loading door. This also gave a better view of the clapboard building behind (yes - another George Sellios inspired structure - with a Foscale twist). Once happy I marked out the cut line and took some photos.
Photo one shows the diorama in its entirety.
Photo 2 shows the left end. We are about 16 inches wide here.
Photo 3 shows the view from the left end. Maybe if you drink a bottle of bourbon you'll see it better?!! Even with all my leaning mock--ups, I can still see this great mass of roof lines and angles.
Photo 4 shows the left end from higher up.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Mark, this diorama has lots of promise!!! Can't wait ....
Hi guys.
Thanks, Martin! I'm hoping to keep the pace up.
OK. After several hours on Monday night of blood (twice), sweat (quite a bit) and NO tears (yay!) I had safely sawn the polystyrene/ceiling tile sandwich from the MDF base. I have decided to leave a small jut out at the right end as it has a curved turnout there. This increases the total length to 1200mm.
Here is a view looking down on the safely removed section.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hi guys. Progress report.
I have built a box to house the diorama. It's 1120 by 550 by 700 high and fits easily in the boot of my car. I have lit it with three cool daylight fluorescent tubes - a three foot at the front and two one foots on the side. I've painted the ceiling and back light blue. I have also been wiring up and installing point motors, making sure things line up and trimming the diorama a little shorter for the car boot. I've also done a little more on the heljan brewery kit-bash.
Photo 1 - The box, painted blue and lit up. The corner post and left hand end piece will be removed for display. They are just there for protection whilst building and for travelling. I bet it will be the only model at the convention with its own lighting. And the lighting was so bad in the competition room last time that people who went to look in the evening (myself included) walked straight back out the door and came back in the morning when it was daylight!
Photo 2 - Looking straight down on the diorama base to show the shape of the track. I just need to sort out the river and rail bridge and then I can glue the track down. Point motors are wired up and installed along with feeder wires.
Photo 3 - The diorama mocked up. I'm casting up my plaster road pieces also. Still quite a few to go.
Photo 4 - The diorama from a different angle.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hi guys.
Well - time for a progress report.
I've done a lot of plaster casting - cobbled roads, concrete and cut stone retaining walls, bridge abutments and the like. I have cleaned up all the flash off the windows and doors for the Jon H. Olson Chemical co. And I have made some progress on the Heljan brewery kit-bash. This one is quite tricky - as there are changes in height at both the top and bottom of the structure, internal and external corners to contend with, and the whole thing meets the backdrop on an angle. It also straddles the curved track-work and sits on top of plaster retaining walls where it surrounds the river.
Photo 1 - the kit-bash sitting in position. It is still in 3 sub-assemblies at this stage.
Photo 2 - a view showing it within the whole diorama.
Photo 3 - a view from higher up.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
You are really moving along. That's a years worth of work for me.
Thanks, Martin. Although I remember how quickly you can work!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
You are making great progress - getting all the pieces ready takes more time than the build. Looking great!
Mark,
I love such heavy urban settings. Can't wait to see the final result. It only seems French fries and modeling don't go well together ;D
Vilius
Hi guys.
Thanks John and Vilius - very much appreciated!
Well a little more progress over the weekend.
Photo 1 - Here is the structure viewed from the back. I had a bit of down time while waiting for the first of two brass square tube lengths to glue. These are to add strength and keep the structure true and square where the negative detail leaves the front of the structure only about 10mm off the backdrop.
Photo 2 - The front of the structure from the right.
Photo 3 - And from the left.
Photo 4 - And here is a view from the top. This picture shows how thin the structure gets.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hi guys.
Back from our holiday in the south west of the South Island of NZ. Lovely and quiet with very few people!
Back into the modelling today. Making sure things will line up between the different dioramas when they meet again!
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Mark, I love the density of the buildings. It does express a busy city story.
Hi guys.
Thanks Martin, much appreciated - and a lot of fun to build!
OK - the LBP have been very busy so I better get you up to date with their progress! The lure of triple time was pretty successful, and so a lot of work was accomplished in the weekend evenings and today's double time and a day in loo saw most of the workers working on the public holiday!
First up is a photo from the front of the whole diorama. The 'Creamoata' diorama has been put back on the layout and the table folded up so that my wife can put her car away in the garage over night!
Second photo shows the diorama from a higher angle.
Third is a photo showing the last road bridge to be built. It shows the problems with curved steep roads, severe selective compression and high density building. The road is angled across the railway line and both rail and road are on a gradient (in opposite directions). The building bases are also at different heights to suit the road but they all have to straddle the railway line and give both vertical and horizontal clearance. Oh - and there is a set of points going through the backdrop to a cassette to contend with as well!
Forth is a photo showing a kit-bashed Hornby bridge. I cut the bridge length-ways twice and staggered when re-gluing to give the correct skew. I strengthened with sheet styrene both underneath and on top and added four styrene I-beams underneath. The bridge was fitted onto plaster bridge abutment castings which I doctored to fit the I-beams.
And finally the fifth photo shows a view under the new wooden road bridge (a bit blurry, sorry) over the track at the left end of the diorama. I think this will be a nice view. Although the diorama is sitting in its box with the left end on it, hiding this view - this is only for temporary strength and will be replaced with a metal L-bracket screwed to the side to keep the lid from sagging. This view will then be available.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Looking good Mark.....are you going to do a thread for the Jon H. Olson Chemical Company when you build it? 8)
I continue to watch your progress with interest...
Thanks Greg and James!
I'll post progress pictures in this thread when I get to building the Jon. H. Olson Chemical Co, Greg. It will be changed up a bit and will have some different signage. I don't think you could get more American than 'Skeeter's fly dope!' When I say it my head it even has an accent! In New Zealand they are referred to as 'Mozzies' or 'sandflies' - never 'Skeeters'or 'flies', and dope is used as a synonym for idiot, or as a word to describe your marijuana stash. In fact, whenever I buy a kit from the USA I pretty much always have to redo the signs. Gas - petrol, dollars and cents - pounds and pence (in the era I'm modelling), and on it goes.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark,
I just caught up with this thread last night. It's fun to follow along and watch as you're working on this. The planning, structure placement, etc. is all very interesting. Thanks for sharing! :D
Love this type of modeling project! Great concept and execution- wish we could see it on person :)
John
Hi guys.
Thanks Bob and John!
Thanks Bob. The placing of structures, designing, mocking up - is my favourite part of this hobby.
John - you are always welcome to visit - its just a long way - and driving is out of the question!
Photo 1 - shows a new block retaining wall has been built and the roading behind has been glued in place with expanding foam.
Photo 2 - shows the same view with the structure in place.
Photo 3 - shows the canal. the concrete walls were painted with a wash of Woodland Scenics concrete and then a wash of Waproo black leather dye and alcohol.
Photo 4 - shows the last road bridge. Skewed, sloping, curving and with unparalleled abutments. It couldn't have been more tricky!
Photos 5 & 6 - show me trying to find a bit of room for some trees! These two photos were taken before the first four.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Looking great , the differences in height make it special.
Mark
I really like the way this is coming together. I'm watching with great interest.
Mark, It will be interesting to see how you handle having the door come out on the green roof in photo 2. Or will there be a sidewalk?
Mark,
Very well done and innovative in the design. I'm enjoying watching all the different structures come together in one scene.
Tom ;D
A whole lot going on in a small space, looks neat.
8)
Hi guys.
Thanks for all your great comments! Thanks Jan, John, Martin, Tom and Andy!
Martin - I think maybe you are seeing a bit of an optical illusion? Anyway the following pictures should both make things clearer and answer your question. If they don't I have misunderstood you! The first step is shown in the third photo - the top plastic step from the kit (I cut all the others off), and the door to the right I will make a small plaster step for.
I have just removed my A & T Burt structure from the plaster roading. This involved first sanding to smooth, adding touch-ups, and then carefully cutting both horizontally and vertically along the seam between the road and the structure. I was then able to gently prize away the structure, remove the tape, sand the roading right to the edge, and then place back in position.
Photo 1 shows the tricky shape.
Photo 2 shows the building back in place. As you can see, very few touch-ups are now required, especially when considering weeds and details.
Photo 3 shows the steps that I think you were talking about, Martin.
Photo 4 shows the roading up against the angle of the structure.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Mark,
Fantastic job on cutting the plaster. Looks professional and extremely well done.
Tom ;D
Mark, ok, I see now - a great optical illustion.
Mark, just wonderful workmanship.
Hi guys.
Thanks very much for your kind comments, Tom, Martin and Donato.
I sorted the walls for the Jon H. Olson Chemical company and and weathered them with my three part weathering technique - floquil grime, followed by dirty mineral spirits and then Waproo black leather dye and alcohol. I do two or three walls at a time, dabbing and lightly smearing the grime and dirty mineral spirits horizontally onto the siding to get a nice smeared, patchy grey, and then darken with the leather dye mix. It was very still yesterday, so I was able to do this outside. For those thinking of buying this kit I have so far found the instructions exemplary. There is a plan view and eight full page to scale elevations, followed by elevations showing bracing and lots of exploded views of construction. Actually, before buying the kit, I read a review in either MRR or MRC and it was one of the best reviews I have ever read. I think the reviewer only found one or two very minor mistakes in the instructions, and had a blast putting the kit together.
I've also been mulling different names and types of industry around for the large brick building behind. It is made from a Heljan Brewery, and has high, two storied windows. I also wanted some nice 3-D lettering around the cornace. I was struggling to get anything I was happy with when it dawned on me that I could just extend the Jon H. Olson chemical factory to join with the brick structure by way of another walk over. I'm sure the mixing of certain chemicals would require height like brewing? After careful measuring and shuffling of 3-D letters I came up with 'J. H. OLSON - CHEMICAL - IMPORTER - & - SUPPLIER'. This should work well with the stencil painted on the roof of the main wooden structure below, and also splits nicely around the brick building - bearing in mind that a person passing in front of the building would not be able to see the whole sign at the same time. Thus it reads from the left 'J. H. OLSON CHEMICAL' and from the right 'IMPORTER - & - SUPPLIER'. The letters I used are made by Slaters. I glued them onto two strips of square styrene which I lined up on low tack painters tape.
Photo 1 shows the sign - the different words will be cut apart before gluing onto the cornice - I put them close together to save on strip styrene. They will be painted Floquil light green.
Photo 2 shows the walls laid out before weathering
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Oh boy, can't wait to see your build of this Mark.....I've had this kit since the 90's and am anxious to get my build of it started.
My late brother-in-law got a degree in chemistry from Queens College in NY and I plan on renaming mine the Frank T. Fritz Chemical Company, since he was my favorite in-law. ;D
Thanks Gregory.
I will be changing up this kit a bit - and half of it has a longer deadline than the other half - so it will be built in two goes. The main structure fits on this present diorama, but the secondary structure and the tank farm will fit in front of this diorama. I love the look of the tank farm, and so have moved it to the front of the layout. The various buildings will be connected with scratch-built walk-overs.
Cheers, mark.
Mark,
What a fantastic looking skyline ! 8)
Tom
Thanks Tom! Pleased you like it.
Just wanted to let people know that I haven't abandoned this project! We are getting close to finally getting our post 2011 earthquake insurance payout - more that 5 full years after the event! And that has been eating into my time and thoughts of late. You think by now it might all be over - but know - we had another 5.7 quake the other day, and then a 4.3 in the middle of the night about 5km directly under our house. On the hill - on the rock - it just goes with an unbelievable BANG! And then for the rest of the night the earth was buzzing underneath and it felt like the house could get swallowed up at any minute!
Anyway - enough of that nonsense! I have been working frantically towards getting my diorama far enough along to merit taking it all the way to Wellington - and so have not find time to do any updates online. I have been taking photos as I go along, and will do a mass post after Easter. The build thread on the Jon H. Olson Chemical Co. does not follow the instructions too closely. I found trying to follow along and get in someone eases head space just too time consuming and very frustrating. There are plenty of elevations and exploded diagrams to be able to work out how to put it together. I have found several problems and will discuss these and how I addressed them. On the whole the fit has been pretty good - although the one upside down wall on the tower was a bit of a major - not me - the wall was cut upside down.
More soon, cheers, Mark.
Hope your latest earthquakes didn't cause any more damage to your region. Looking forward to seeing progress on your layout.
dave
Looks great Mark - I'm looking forward to your future posts. Take care - it has to be tough having the ground moving underneath your feet.
I just can't help going back to an earlier part of this thread and the humor of aerated water....
This is like putting two dehydrated water tablets in a cup, add water, and your cup runneth over ! ! !
Sorry....... couldn't help myself...
see ya
Bob
Hi Mark:
Very nicely done so far. I love the way its is taking shape. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Karl