I was talking to Frank Baker, Erieman, the other day and we were discussing how busy we are in retirement. I'm really not sure when I had time to work but that's another story.
Anyway, I told Frank I would fix and repair one of his brass locos. The loco is a D&RG RR Class M-78, 4-8-2 Mountain. I mentioned to Frank I would also repaint it and he asked me to letter it for the Erie Railroad.
Also, Frank mentioned that the loco didn't run very well and/or doesn't run at all. I said it sounds like a great challenge for me.
Well, that initial conversation occurred two years ago. So time to go to work! 8) 8) 8) 8) ;D
I forgot to take a photo of the engine in whole but here is the loco ready for some work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174511.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174511.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The next photo is for your information. Many people take a loco apart and don't remember how it goes back together. So, take a photo of the area of your weakness and you have a great start on getting it back together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174013.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174013.jpeg)
On the other forum, I did a highly detailed thread on a brass repair and paint on an old 0-8-0 I got off Ebay. I documented every step needed to repair, paint and install DCC sound. You may refer to that thread here.
http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2726 (http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2726)
I see that many of the photos from that thread are missing. If anyone is truly interested or has any questions I'll just copy and paste the thread in another thread on this forum for your convenience. I'll leave out all the comments so you get just the meat of the thread. Let me know here or in a PM and we'll go from there. I'll need more than a few requests though to make it worth posting.
Continued in a few.
This loco has a large tender so I'll be using a 1.5" round 8 OHM speaker from PFM. The tender will act as a baffle for the speaker and will have nice rich base tones for the sound.
However, the speaker is to large for the tender. This was the case with a great majority or speakers PFM had for installing sound in brass locos. About 1/4" of the speaker sides was removed. I'm using a used speaker for the purpose of the install.
The next two photos show you the speaker is still to large for the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174029.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174043.jpeg)
In the above photo you can see the speaker it doesn't fit as the speaker cone is up against the bottom of the coal bunker.
Continued in a few.
I determined where the best placement for the speaker would be and then marked the inside of the tender. This particular tender has a "L" angle bar soldered to the inside of the tender for support. I had to remove a short section of the support bar. I used a Dremel and cutting disc for this.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174106.jpeg)
Now the speaker fits in the tender on the sides but the speaker cone is still hitting the top of the bottom side of the coal bunker. I used a pencil to mark where the coal bunker needed to be cut to allow the speaker cone to fit. After marking the tender I drilled a series of small holes in the circle as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174121.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174136.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
When I could drill no more holes I cut out the remaining portion with wire nippers. When the inner circle was removed I used a Dremel thingy to remove and smooth the burrs. I said thingy because I can't think of the name of the Dremel attachment I used. Old age I guess.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174156.jpeg)
In the next photo the tender is now on the tender deck. You can see the hole is now large enough for the speaker cone to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174221.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom,
Happy New Year!!! I like this thread. In case you forgot what the engine looks like, here is a photo of the engine taken several years ago. I'm sure that it will look, run and sound much better that it did back then. Thanks, my friend.
Frank / Erieman
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/98-020116184208.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/98-020116184208.jpeg)
Frank,
You are welcome my friend and thanks for checking in and for posting the loco photo. This is a fun project and the before and after photos will really be quite outstanding.
Tom ;D
Well, I just did more on the narrative of this thread with photos and hit the wrong button and lost it all. So, I'll start this posting once again. Old age again I'm sure.
Damn, old age is definitely not for sissy people. Can I say sissy here or is it a PC issue. Oh well, I'll blame that on old age as well.
So to continue, you can see the speaker is in place. It may appear that the hole is to large but I cut it larger so the speaker could be moved if needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174238.jpeg)
Once the speaker was in the proper location I marked the outside edge on the tender deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174258.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020116174323.jpeg)
Later in the week if not tomorrow, I'll cover drilling the tender holes for the sound.
Tom
I am really enjoying this thread.....please keep them coming and if you can Re-post the other brass loco thread you mentioned, I will devour it.
Second the motion!
All in favor?!!
Here! Here! T...
Doesn't cutting into the speaker ruin it or at least decrease the sound volume? Wouldn't it be much easier to get a speaker that fits? :D
Jeff
Quote from: Donato on January 02, 2016, 08:47:11 PM
I am really enjoying this thread.....please keep them coming and if you can Re-post the other brass loco thread you mentioned, I will devour it.
Donato,
Thanks for following along. I'll work on the re-posting of the other thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on January 02, 2016, 08:58:30 PM
Second the motion!
All in favor?!!
Chip,
Okay, I'll work on getting the re-post ready for this forum. I should get it going with the next few days. Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 02, 2016, 09:23:35 PM
Here! Here! T...
Thom,
Thanks for checking in and posting your interest in the other brass repair job. I'll start it in the next few days. I need to get the old photos ready for this forum.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 03, 2016, 07:48:12 AM
Doesn't cutting into the speaker ruin it or at least decrease the sound volume? Wouldn't it be much easier to get a speaker that fits? :D
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Forty some years ago when PFM came out with the PFM Sound I system it was the state of art DC Analog sound system and far ahead of others at the time. The system was developed by Bob Longnecker for Don Drew, owner of PFM Models.
Anyway, at the time these speakers were also state of art speakers and were made in Japan for PFM.
To honestly answer your question, my answer would be YES, it is much easier to get a newer speaker that fits without all the cutting and adjustments. That said, I've been installing the PFM, PBL Foreground Sound, Tsunami and TCS WOW sound for years and the speaker cutting is not an issue for me.
As far as sound loss or distortion the answer is No. There is no loss of sound. The PFM 8 OHM speaker has a great base. However, the older PFM speakers don't work well with the new TSC WOW sound as that sound is very much state of the art sound and therefore the newer smaller 8 Ohm speakers are best.
I'm installing the Heavy Steam Loco Tsunami sound decoder for Frank in this loco. These speakers are perfect for the Tsunami sound installs.
Hope this helps your understanding of my reasoning.
Tom ;D
After marking the tender for the speaker I started drilling holes in the bottom of the tender deck. I used a small drill bit for this purpose; however you can drill larger or smaller holes if desired.
NOTE: Be sure you use a new or sharp drill for this as a dull one will cause the brass to heat up and you may run the risk of softening the already soldered parts. This has happened to me once so this is experience talking.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170033.jpeg)
In the photo above you can see the tender deck is just laying there. During the drilling process I hold the tender deck secure with my left hand as I operated the Dremel Drill Press. Also for the drilling, I use the powered Dremel tool and not the cordless. Obviously the powered Dremel is more powerful.
When the holes are drilled, you can go over the holes with a slightly larger drill to "ream" the opening and de-burr the original holes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170048.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Frank isn't the original owner of this brass loco but I want to point out to ya'll the difference between a custom painter and a professional custom painter. Look at the following photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170155.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170155.jpeg)
Notice the pattern of the wheels/drivers on the side of the loco main frame? The previous painter of the loco didn't remove the drivers, side rods, cranks, etc and etc prior to stripping and painting. The loco was painted with all the parts still on the frame.
This is non-professional in my opinion and possibility the result of a couple of things.
1. The painter didn't have the knowledge or confidence to remove the running gear prior to painting.
And last but not the least -
2. Just pure laziness, plain and simple.
I've only painted one brass loco in this manner and that was at the request of the owner/customer and certainly after my objections. I've painted 358 brass locos over the past 40 years and Frank's loco will make 359.
Continued in a few.
Now comes the time to strip the old paint off the loco. I use a product called Acetone. It is one of the same chemical compounds in your wife's nail polish remover.
NOTE: Acetone is nasty stuff, very nasty stuff. Be sure you use eye protection and industrial rubber gloves to protect your skin.
I've found that I can use the yellow gloves from the grocery store. These are the gloves worn while washing dishes.
However, I have to work fast as the gloves start to degrade after about 15 minutes.
Your hands won't fall off if exposed to the Acetone but the chemical can be absorbed and it's not as good as your God given blood.
There, I've done my part in warning ya'll to be careful.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170103.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170103.jpeg)
I have an old glass Pyrex bread bowl to soak the brass in the Acetone. I start with the small parts and work my way up to the tender and boiler.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170119.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
In the next couple of photos you can see the loco boiler soaking in the Acetone.
The first photo is after the loco soaked for just three minutes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170131.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170131.jpeg)
Three minutes later I hope you can see or tell the Acetone is doing it part. It doesn't take long for the Acetone to "eat" the old paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170142.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170142.jpeg)
After the brass has been stripped of the old paint, I take it to the laundry sink and wash all the parts with warm soapy water and set aside to dry. You can also bake them dry in the oven. I'll cover the baking process in the other thread.
Continued in a few.
Fast forward and the brass has been stripped, washed in warm soapy water and dried. The loco and parts are now ready to be pained.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170216.jpeg)
Yup!, watching this process and all the attention to detail & time involved is what I hope everyone who asks someone else to do to their brass models pays attention too! So when the bill comes in the sticker shock will be better understood. ha... Please sir, continue. I'm riveted to my seat in how this movie turns out. Thanx Thom...
Thanks for the explanation on the speaker, Tom.
Jeff
Tom,
I don't know what to say. Watching the stripping process, the painting and mechanical problems you have found and everything else you are doing to my engine are beyond words. You are definitely a magician and your presentation process gives me goosebumps. This is going to be my story engine on the layout. I don't know what else to say. Even the wife is amazed with your work. I really look forward to the painting stage.
I have to tell you a funny story that I heard from a couple of guys here in Arizona. There was a guy who painted a lot of brass. He had just finished painted an engine when some of his friends stopped by to see what Bill was doing. While the boys talked about trains, a very strange sound started to emanate from the kitchen. Running to the kitchen, he found that the oven temperature had been changed. The wife had decided to make some cookies. Needless to say, the brass engine warming in the oven turned out to be a pile of pieces. I don't know what the client said upon finding out about the oven temperature mistake.
That being said, please make sure that Pam or her mother don't make cookies about the time you want to cure the engine. Thank you very much my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Man! Some people have all the luck. I hope I never get to tell a shivering story like that. T...
Tom,
I used to think painting brass engines was difficult/challenging; now I know better. Great thread.
Quote from: tct855 on January 03, 2016, 08:27:03 PM
Yup!, watching this process and all the attention to detail & time involved is what I hope everyone who asks someone else to do to their brass models pays attention too! So when the bill comes in the sticker shock will be better understood. ha... Please sir, continue. I'm riveted to my seat in how this movie turns out. Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thanks for stopping by and posting your thoughts on painting brass. A great majority of people think or don't think painting brass is a big deal. Obviously, You, Thom know it is if done correctly or professionally.
Frank and I are in the bartering mode for this paint job.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 03, 2016, 09:09:13 PM
Thanks for the explanation on the speaker, Tom.
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
You are most welcome my friend.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom,
As usual....WOW! :o I can't even begin to imagine tackling a project like this. It's fun to follow along though. Thanks for sharing. :D
Quote from: Erieman on January 03, 2016, 09:09:46 PM
Tom,
I don't know what to say. Watching the stripping process, the painting and mechanical problems you have found and everything else you are doing to my engine are beyond words. You are definitely a magician and your presentation process gives me goosebumps. This is going to be my story engine on the layout. I don't know what else to say. Even the wife is amazed with your work. I really look forward to the painting stage.
I have to tell you a funny story that I heard from a couple of guys here in Arizona. There was a guy who painted a lot of brass. He had just finished painted an engine when some of his friends stopped by to see what Bill was doing. While the boys talked about trains, a very strange sound started to emanate from the kitchen. Running to the kitchen, he found that the oven temperature had been changed. The wife had decided to make some cookies. Needless to say, the brass engine warming in the oven turned out to be a pile of pieces. I don't know what the client said upon finding out about the oven temperature mistake.
That being said, please make sure that Pam or her mother don't make cookies about the time you want to cure the engine. Thank you very much my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Good evening Frank,
It was great speaking with you this morning. I always enjoy our conversations.
Funny you should mention that brass melting in the oven story. I actually did the same this thing. I was horrified and realized it was my fault as I set the oven on the wrong temperature. Sadly the painting on the brass had to be stripped and then repaired. The repair took me close to 80 hours. Now, I have a sing I take to the oven which reads in red - Caution, trains in the oven _ DO NOT TOUCH OVEN!
If I can find the photo of the Brass melt done I'll post them on this thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 03, 2016, 09:23:45 PM
Man! Some people have all the luck. I hope I never get to tell a shivering story like that. T...
Thom,
I was lucky that way once and I'll post the pictures for proof when I find them.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 03, 2016, 11:23:06 PM
Tom,
I used to think painting brass engines was difficult/challenging; now I know better. Great thread.
Martin,
Brass painting may no be difficult but it is still challenging. When you paint yours please post the pictures so we all can share in the process.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 04, 2016, 06:18:59 PM
Hi Tom,
As usual....WOW! :o I can't even begin to imagine tackling a project like this. It's fun to follow along though. Thanks for sharing. :D
Hey Bob,
Thanks for stopping by, much appreciated. It's not to difficult now, after 358 of them but I still remember how traumatized I was when I painted my first brass loco.
I love the Red Light District build you are doing. Great stuff.
Tom ;D
I forgot to post pictures of a repair I made on Frank's loco. Does anyone know what the part in the photo below is?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040116180857.jpeg)
Its called a Waist Sheet or commonly referred to as an expansion knee. It's a vertical sheet of steel attached to the expansion crosstie. It extends from the frame upwards to the bottom side of the boiler. This part supports the waist of the boiler. I could go into more detail but you get the idea.
Oh, the outside portion of the Waist Sheet also supports the Eccentric Crank rods.
Anyway, this was the problem with the loco not running well for Frank. It was broken and then super glued in the wrong position.
You can see in the above photo and the one below I made the repair by soldering the two pieces back together and this time in the correct position and correctly done as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040116180846.jpeg)
Tom ;D
This is really a good thread. I just love working on brass, judging from all the great replies it seems I'm not alone. I hope more join in. Ok I have my favorite bev in hand and are tuned in. Please continue... Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on January 04, 2016, 06:54:01 PM
This is really a good thread. I just love working on brass, judging from all the great replies it seems I'm not alone. I hope more join in. Ok I have my favorite bev in hand and are tuned in. Please continue... Thom...
Thom,
Thanks again for checking in on the repair and the painting process. Working with brass isn't for everyone but it sure is for me. If you haven't seen this little thread I did a year ago, please take a look.
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1016.0
What do you think?
Tom ;D
BTW, I'll start the painting process later this week and post the pictures accordingly. I know Frank is anxious as well.
Tom,
No I didn't see that thread. Very kewl! I really like the weathering a lot. I also like the speaker setup in the tender, that's intriguing for sure. I like it! https://youtu.be/x5eGsAvXzP0?t=25 Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on January 04, 2016, 10:22:32 PM
Tom,
No I didn't see that thread. Very kewl! I really like the weathering a lot. I also like the speaker setup in the tender, that's intriguing for sure. I like it! Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
I told Frank I would show him my brass melting down from the 400 degree oven. I promise after this I'll get back to posting photos of Frank's loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180540.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180552.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180607.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The tender and wheels were the easiest to repair.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180620.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180633.jpeg)
The loco boiler and cab was a very difficult task.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180645.jpeg)
More in a few.
Running boards back boiler barrel and cab had to be perfectly lined up and then soldered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180700.jpeg)
Piping back on prior to the cab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180713.jpeg)
After 80 hours of repairs it was time to put to together and make sure it ran properly. It did!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180730.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180746.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180758.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Now take it apart, paint and bake at a much lower temperature and then back together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180817.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180834.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050116180848.jpeg)
The End.
Tom...
Great stuff.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 05, 2016, 06:36:49 PM
Tom...
Great stuff.
Thanx
Bob
Bob,
Thank you kind sir, much appreciated.
See ya!
Tom ;D
Tom
I just went through this complete thread - WOW! Great work. And a great thread.
Tom,
Beautiful work as usual. I am impressed by the scope of your artistry.
Tom,
I agree! excellent! Nice job! T...
https://youtu.be/-W0PReCRg6Y?t=2
Tom,
Beautiful recovery on the "Cooked" engine. I almost bought one of those engines years ago. I like the large drivers. It would look great with a Vanderbilt tender. And another thing, you were correct on the number of my brass engines. Where did they all come from? Can't say enough about what you are doing. Keep up the wonderful work, my friend. Stay out of the rain and have fun in the train room.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: S&S RR on January 05, 2016, 08:11:40 PM
Tom
I just went through this complete thread - WOW! Great work. And a great thread.
John,
Thanks for checking this thread also. I almost croaked when I saw the pieces of brass in the oven. Almost is the key word here.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on January 05, 2016, 08:28:20 PM
Tom,
Beautiful work as usual. I am impressed by the scope of your artistry.
Donato,
Thank you kind sir, very much appreciated! Not sure I'm an artist but it sure is fun! Heck, after 40 years of doing it I should have learned a little! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Again, your kind remarks are very much appreciated. Now if I can just get my head through the door. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 05, 2016, 08:28:46 PM
Tom,
I agree! excellent! Nice job! T...
Thom,
Thanks very much. Here is the link to the original thread.
http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7857
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 06, 2016, 12:07:31 PM
Tom,
Beautiful recovery on the "Cooked" engine. I almost bought one of those engines years ago. I like the large drivers. It would look great with a Vanderbilt tender. And another thing, you were correct on the number of my brass engines. Where did they all come from? Can't say enough about what you are doing. Keep up the wonderful work, my friend. Stay out of the rain and have fun in the train room.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Thanks, much appreciated. I hope to never and I mean never plan to go through that again.
I know where the brass comes from. They are like rabbits, you get two and before you know what happened you have 10-11 or more. Don't ask how I know, trust me on this. My two at one time was close to 80 but I'm down to my favorite 25 now.
Tom ;D
Guess what Howdy Doody fans? It's Howdy Doody Time and that means it's time for another update on Frank's brass loco paint job. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
One thing I found on Frank's loco was the fact the headlight was epoxied into the headlight housing. Not only that but there is also a MV lens in the headlight.
Loosing the 1.5 volt light isn't a big deal as it can easily be replaced. However, the MV lens can't or at least I don't have one that size for Frank's headlight. If I soak the smoke box front in Acetone, the MV lens will be history.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143342.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143356.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
In order to save the MV lens in the headlight, here is what I decided to do. I'm leaving the light and MV lens in the headlight and repainting the smoke box front. Yepper, that's correct, you read that correctly.
I'm going to use blue painters tape to mask the light and MV lens.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143409.jpeg)
I use the medium adhesive blue painters tape. I like this tape as the adhesive doesn't stick to the paint and doesn't melt at the low oven temperature.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143425.jpeg)
Continued later this afternoon.
Tom,
Or should I say Howdy Doody?! I don't know if I should be scared or excited. Oh, I know, Excited. Beautiful job my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on January 17, 2016, 03:11:14 PM
Tom,
Or should I say Howdy Doody?! I don't know if I should be scared or excited. Oh, I know, Excited. Beautiful job my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Have no fear my friend, I'm a professional. Well, I think so anyway, you can be a little concerned. No, just kidding, all will be fine as I've already done it and I'm a bit slow on the postings.
More to follow in a few minutes.
Tom ;D
I then covered the front with the tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143441.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143500.jpeg)
When I paint the front of the smoke box, I won't be concerned about the other casting on the smoke box. They will be painted by hand.
Continued in a few.
I believe the old smoke box paint was Scalecoat Graphite and Oil. That color is the basic color for a great majority of steam locos. I wanted a special color for Frank's so I made my own mix.
I combined the Scalecoat Loco Black with the Scalecoat Graphite. I mixed 7 drops of Graphite and 3 drops of black for the mix. I always keep a list of the mixes so if needed I can make a small about to use as touch up paint. I also label the bottles. I'll call the mix Baker Graphite mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143547.jpeg)
Fast forward and I've painted the loco smoke box and smoke box front with the Baker Graphite. Note in the photo the color looks grey. It isn't, it's more of a metallic graphite, just looks grey in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143515.jpeg)
Now ready to be baked in the oven.
Continued in a few.
The bottom frame base plate has the NJ International plate on the bottom. So, all I did was cover it with the tape. I usually paint it loco black. But, hey, it won't show on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143530.jpeg)
Through the years of my professional brass painting time, I made my own formulas/mixes for different paint colors. For Frank's brass loco, I'm using the Langford Black. The formula/mix is shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143603.jpeg)
Again, fast forward and the frame, base plate with brake shoes, steam chest, waist sheet, front pilot and the four drivers were painted with the Langford Loco Black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116143618.jpeg)
These were sent to the oven as well.
While I was painting Frank's loco, I took the time to touch up some of my own brass locos.
This one is a KEY 4-8-2 Light Mountain. Had Tsunami sound but now has the TCS WOW sound installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116144042.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116144042.jpeg)
This next one is the United/PFM Frisco 2-10-0 Russian Decapod. Had Tsunami and now has the WOW sound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116144056.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116144056.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
This one is an Atlantic Coast Line P-5a 4-6-2 Light USRA Pacific. Key imported this loco in 1979. The builder was Sam Hongsa and only 75 were made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116161719.jpeg)
The top one is a United/PFM USRA 2-8-2 Mikado. WOW sound installed.
The bottom one is PFM, Toby built and imported in 1968. Tsunami installed. The Tsunami decoder has the Frisco 1522 whistle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-170116144129.jpeg)
Here is how the smoke box front looked when it came out of the oven. I'm sorry but this one I didn't get a very good photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120809.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120809.jpeg)
And here is how it looks with the details painted in the loco black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120826.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120826.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The bell and number board outlined/painted with Floquil Brass. Another fuzzy picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120840.jpeg)
Inside bell was painted with Floquil Signal Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116120857.jpeg)
Hopefully, this next picture is much clearer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180116122204.jpeg)
More in an hour or so!
Tom
I know why Frank was having trouble sleeping the other night. The locomotive is looking great - love the play by play. Frank don't worry he is a professional.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 18, 2016, 07:38:00 PM
Tom
I know why Frank was having trouble sleeping the other night. The locomotive is looking great - love the play by play. Frank don't worry he is a professional.
What, Me Worry?
NOT! I'm pleased to watch Tom do his magic.
Frank / Erieman
Love the engines. Looking forward to see the final paint engine.
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
He's just a party-pooper!!! ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Evidently, Mrs. Langford didn't raise no dummies. 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on January 18, 2016, 07:38:00 PM
Tom
I know why Frank was having trouble sleeping the other night. The locomotive is looking great - love the play by play. Frank don't worry he is a professional.
John,
Thank you for stopping by and checking in. I have much more to show this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 18, 2016, 08:43:38 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 18, 2016, 07:38:00 PM
Tom
I know why Frank was having trouble sleeping the other night. The locomotive is looking great - love the play by play. Frank don't worry he is a professional.
What, Me Worry? NOT! I'm pleased to watch Tom do his magic.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Thanks for the support, I'll have more this afternoon. I didn't get to post any the other afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 19, 2016, 09:11:20 AM
Love the engines. Looking forward to see the final paint engine.
Martin,
Thank you, much appreciated. The engine will be a show piece for Frank when finished.
Again, Martin, my wife and I are very sorry for your loss.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Thank you for the kind words on the brass paint jobs. You can run them any time as long as you follow the speed restrictions as you said.
High ball the old Varney all you want. 8) Wait, I don't have an old Varney.
Tom ;D 8)
Quote from: Donato on January 19, 2016, 12:27:50 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
He's just a party-pooper!!! ;)
Donato,
No actually, I'm a bathroom pooper. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on January 19, 2016, 01:11:23 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Evidently, Mrs. Langford didn't raise no dummies. 8)
Chip,
Well, some may not agree but I agree with you. Hopefully you were referring to me and not any of my three sisters. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Thanks for stopping by.
Tom ;D
The paint has been baked and I started to clean the driver tires. I use cotton swab Q-tips dipped in Acetone to remove the paint from the drivers. The third driver from the top still has the paint on the driver tires.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132752.jpeg)
You can see in the above photo that I also removed the paint from the journal pockets on the loco frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132809.jpeg)
You can see in the photo above that I go through many Q-tips.
Continued in a few.
When I received the loco from Frank, it didn't run very well due mainly to the broken Waist Sheet. Another source of the problem was the journal wire. A great majority of Brass builders use journal springs in the journal boxes.
Two manufacturers that I know of used a piece of wire for the tension spring. Overland and NJ Custom Brass are the two. To my knowledge, no other manufacturer used the wire. This brass loco is a NJ Custom Brass model.
Anyway, I said all that to say the wire tension isn't the best method for journal springs on brass. It is however, effective but not as good as the journal spring.
So back to the loco not running well. Remember I showed a photo where the last painter of the loco didn't completely disassemble the loco prior to painting. Here is the photo I'm referring to. You can read what I said on page 2 of this thread if you missed it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030116170155.jpeg)
By not removing all the parts when painted, the tension spring got painted as well and this causes a loss of contact between the frame sides and journal sleeves. These are electrical contacts on the loco.
In the next photo you can see the two tensions wires. The one on top is how it came off the loco. The one on the bottom was removed and the paint stripped by me. The other one was stripped after the photo was taken.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132824.jpeg)
Continued after a Diet Pepsi break.
In the next photo you can see the proper placement of the tension wire. One goes on the inside of each side of the loco frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132842.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132842.jpeg)
The four drivers are then placed in the journal boxes on the frame and on top of the tension wire.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132857.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132857.jpeg)
The bottom plate is then screwed to the bottom of the frame. The bottom plate forces the driver axles down onto the tension spring. The photo below gives you the best look and understanding as to how it works for the greater good.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132933.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132933.jpeg)
I then reattached the pilot. I painted the rubber air hoses a Polly Scale Tan and the glad hands Floquil Old Silver.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132917.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132917.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Time to attach the side rods. Remember I mentioned you should take a photo of the model prior to taking all the parts off so you know where they all go back on? Well, a photo wouldn't necessarily help you here but knowledge of how the side rods work would.
In the photo below, all the side rods look the same don't they?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132948.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132948.jpeg)
They aren't however. Look at the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133004.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133004.jpeg)
The two side rods on the left are different lengths.
You more than likely didn't notice the difference in the driver spaces. No problem, look at the next photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132933.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116132933.jpeg)
The driver on the left in the photo is the front driver and you can see the spacing on this one is wider than the other three. This is where the longer side rod goes. Easy Peasy!
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133018.jpeg)
The photo above shows you how the side rods go together and the photo below shows you the side rods on the loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133116.jpeg)
More later this afternoon.
Time for a longer break.
After the side rods were attached, I added the steam chest. I hand painted the steam chest piston covers with Scalecoat Aluminum. I painted the valve handles on the steam chest cylinders with Floquil Signal Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133140.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133204.jpeg)
Time now for the main side rod, eccentric crank, etc. on the locomotive. These were a bit "tricksie" to reinstall but everything went on as needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133219.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116133232.jpeg)
In the next few days I'll be adding boiler and tender photos.
Thanks for following and for all the past comments.
One word .....
...... WOW !!!!
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2016, 01:22:36 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Thank you for the kind words on the brass paint jobs. You can run them any time as long as you follow the speed restrictions as you said.
High ball the old Varney all you want. 8) Wait, I don't have an old Varney.
Tom ;D 8)
I do
Jim
Quote from: Donato on January 19, 2016, 04:28:16 PM
One word .....
...... WOW !!!!
Donato,
I'm with you . Actually I can think of a couple of other expletives, but they are not to be used on the forum for fear of getting kicked off.
WOW is perfect.
Now we are going to have to address him as SIR Tom or Sir ACL 1504. Beautiful job.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Donato on January 19, 2016, 04:28:16 PM
One word .....
...... WOW !!!!
Donato,
Thank you, much appreciated. I'm glad you like the progress and painting.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jimmillho on January 19, 2016, 05:58:38 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2016, 01:22:36 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Thank you for the kind words on the brass paint jobs. You can run them any time as long as you follow the speed restrictions as you said.
High ball the old Varney all you want. 8) Wait, I don't have an old Varney.
Tom ;D 8)
I do
Jim
Jim,
Good, bring it to the next SBG and Greg can burn the motor out. Maybe it will survive at light speed, then again I guess it won't.
Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 19, 2016, 06:07:19 PM
Quote from: Donato on January 19, 2016, 04:28:16 PM
One word .....
...... WOW !!!!
Donato,
I'm with you . Actually I can think of a couple of other expletives, but they are not to be used on the forum for fear of getting kicked off. WOW is perfect.
Now we are going to have to address him as SIR Tom or Sir ACL 1504. Beautiful job.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Thank you very much, I appreciate the kind word and support. I'm very much thrilled at how this is turning out and I'm happy you approve.
Tom ;D
Quick update. I forgot to mention after the basic coat of black paint was applied and baked, I sprayed the loco and parts with Scalecoat Satin finish. The Satin finish is a special mix I've been using for years to seal the basic black paint. The Satin finish is a mixture of the Scalecoat Flat and Gloss paint plus a few parts of Scalecoat thinner.
All the locomotive parts assembled as shown above, have the Satin Finish.
I used the blue tape to cover the smoke box. I then painted the loco boiler and cab areas with the Loco Black mixture. I then baked the paint @ 170 degrees for 1 hour. The photos below show how it looked after coming out of the oven and prior to the Satin finish added.
You can see all the piping needs to be painted the loco black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116184410.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116184426.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Prior to spraying the Satin finish, I used a very thin brush to hand paint the piping, number boards, etc.. After these have been baked, I'll paint a few more details on the loco boiler. I'll show these areas later this week.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116184442.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190116184459.jpeg)
Excellent job . I really love the old steamers.
8)
Nice Work Tom! I really like watching all the step by steps. Ha, feels like I'm there working with you. Here!, let me clean up the airbrush for yah... Thanx Thom...
Tom, I am loving the story and progress my friend. Looking marvelous. This might just have to sit on the shelf, NOT. This is going to be awesome on the layout. Keep up the great work. Don't forget to add the Dirty look. But I am probably jumping the gun.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: ak-milw on January 19, 2016, 07:23:07 PM
Excellent job . I really love the old steamers.
8)
Andy,
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated. I also love the old steamers but through the years I've found myself following deseasiels (sic).
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 19, 2016, 07:34:42 PM
Nice Work Tom! I really like watching all the step by steps. Ha, feels like I'm there working with you. Here!, let me clean up the airbrush for yah... Thanx Thom...
Thom,Thank you my kind sir. Cleaning the air brush is my least favorite job on painting brass. There are days when I clean it 3-4 times after painting something. It's an old habit but well worth the effort in the long run. I've been using my old Binks air brush for almost 40 years now. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 19, 2016, 09:29:50 PM
Tom, I am loving the story and progress my friend. Looking marvelous. This might just have to sit on the shelf, NOT. This is going to be awesome on the layout. Keep up the great work. Don't forget to add the Dirty look. But I am probably jumping the gun.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Morning my friend. I guess you are still in the sack unless you are up at 4AM. Glad you are following along. It will look good on the Morristown and Erie RR.
I'll make the loco look like it is well used but not abused.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2016, 06:48:02 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on January 19, 2016, 05:58:38 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2016, 01:22:36 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 19, 2016, 09:34:43 AM
Y'all ought to see these beauties up close. I love to run them, especially with the new WOW sound in them. 8) 8) 8)
But the problem is, Tom won't let me high-ball them. I have to faithfully follow all of his speed restrictions.....or else. He only allows me to do high speed with my engines or his old Varney loco! ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Thank you for the kind words on the brass paint jobs. You can run them any time as long as you follow the speed restrictions as you said.
High ball the old Varney all you want. 8) Wait, I don't have an old Varney.
Tom ;D 8)
I do
Jim
Jim,
Good, bring it to the next SBG and Greg can burn the motor out. Maybe it will survive at light speed, then again I guess it won't.
Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Hot diggidy dog.....MORE STEAM.....Throttle To The Stop..... ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 20, 2016, 07:33:43 AM
Quote from: Erieman on January 19, 2016, 09:29:50 PM
Tom, I am loving the story and progress my friend. Looking marvelous. This might just have to sit on the shelf, NOT. This is going to be awesome on the layout. Keep up the great work. Don't forget to add the Dirty look. But I am probably jumping the gun.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Morning my friend. I guess you are still in the sack unless you are up at 4AM. Glad you are following along. It will look good on the Morristown and Erie RR.
I'll make the loco look like it is well used but not abused.
Tom ;D
Good Morning Tom,
No I was not up early this morning. Just an old sleepy head. Not worried about what you are doing. You are a master and doing a wonderful job painting and repairing my engine. I am really looking forward to seeing it run, 1st on your layout and then permanently on my layout. Keep up the wonderful work, my friend.
Frank / Erieman
SPOILER ALERT!
Just test fitting the boiler. Time for football playoffs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240116150658.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240116151029.jpeg)
Tom, I think I have already used all my adjectives up.
8)
I'm totally awestruck. Wunderful, Wunderful. And yes, I know how to spell wonderful. Just having fun with Tom. Beautiful Job, my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Kewl! K@@l! Cool! Kull! I'm not good at spelling, but you get where I'm going right! or wuz it left? Thanx Thom...
My eyes are bleeding from staring at it so long.
Quote from: ak-milw on January 24, 2016, 03:33:01 PM
Tom, I think I have already used all my adjectives up.
8)
Andy,
Thank you for the compliment, much appreciated. I'll have a little more this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 24, 2016, 08:10:17 PM
I'm totally awestruck. Wunderful, Wunderful. And yes, I know how to spell wonderful. Just having fun with Tom. Beautiful Job, my friend.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Your kind words are appreciated cause if you ain't happy then I ain't doing it right! More this afternoon. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 24, 2016, 09:22:54 PM
Kewl! K@@l! Cool! Kull! I'm not good at spelling, but you get where I'm going right! or wuz it left? Thanx Thom...
Thom,
I think you forgot kool! Your support as a brass painter is much appreciated. You left me speachless. Did I get that right? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 25, 2016, 09:24:38 AM
My eyes are bleeding from staring at it so long.
Martin,
I appreciate you checking in and looking but don't hurt yourself. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
I wanted to add a few little extra details to Frank's Erie RR loco. I started by making two cab weather curtains. I took a clean napkin I got from Chili's Restaurant. I cut two small pieces off the napkin and folded it a few times. I then used common thread to tie the napkin in the two places as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165122.jpeg)
I then fit the curtains to the back of the cab and trimmed them at the top to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165137.jpeg)
And, here is how they look on the back of the loco cab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165151.jpeg)
Unfortunately I got all excited about these little details and forgot to photo the next step in the curtain process. I used Floquil Mud and painted the curtains. When dry, I heavily weather them with A&I. You'll be able to see the painted and weathered curtains later on the thread.
Continued in a few.
I painted the cab windows with Floquil Signal Red. I painted the arm rests with Polly S tan to represent leather. Notice a small red speck below the center of the window. I saw this when I cropped the photo and I've since touched up the red spot with the loco black.
The crew were on an extended vacation during the rebuilding of the loco but they are now back in the cab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165204.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165204.jpeg)
I painted the whistle and bell cords with Floquil Foundation. I painted the whistle and pop valves with Floquil Brass. All the valve handles were painted with the red as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165216.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
The smoke box front was re-installed and the bell cord resoldered and the painted at the solder joint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165230.jpeg)
I also painted the inside of the smoke stack and rim with the loco black.
When I stripped the loco of the old paint, I removed the two builders plates. I didn't want to strip the paint from these at the time. I used ACC glue and re-installed the builders plates.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165243.jpeg)
I'm not sure you can see this little detail but I added a short section of chain to the front couple lift bar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165332.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here is a side view of the cab and painted/weathered cab curtains.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165258.jpeg)
I added a cab light and this is a good back view of the cab curtains. The loco has a backhead although the detail is lacking. I did paint a few of the raised gauges but the backhead is relatively flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165313.jpeg)
More in a few.
The loco is far from finished but here is a view of it together for your review and or viewing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165346.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-250116165402.jpeg)
Other details to be added are firebox lights, rear light, window glass, coal load and sound!
After all those are finished, I'll do the loco weathering.
Yes, inquiring minds, I'll also be showing those extras.
TOM,
I CAN'T STOP DROOLING!!! :P :P :P You are doing a magnificent job on my engine. Simply magnificent.
Frank / Erieman
Tom, That's way to nice to send to Frank. I think you should put a Milwaukee decal on it and send it to me.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on January 25, 2016, 08:22:30 PM
Tom, That's way to nice to send to Frank. I think you should put a Milwaukee decal on it and send it to me.
8)
ANDY,
That be a big
NO!Sorry Andy, nice try. Once it is on the layout, i'll take you some nice pics.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on January 25, 2016, 06:09:51 PM
TOM,
I CAN'T STOP DROOLING!!! :P :P :P You are doing a magnificent job on my engine. Simply magnificent.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
You can drool all you want, BUT, not on the loco. I appreciate your kind words my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ak-milw on January 25, 2016, 08:22:30 PM
Tom, That's way to nice to send to Frank. I think you should put a Milwaukee decal on it and send it to me.
8)
Andy,
Yes, it is way to nice. But remember, it is his locomotive. Believe it or not in all my years of painting brass, I've never painted one Milwaukee loco. ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 26, 2016, 04:56:52 PM
Quote from: ak-milw on January 25, 2016, 08:22:30 PM
Tom, That's way to nice to send to Frank. I think you should put a Milwaukee decal on it and send it to me.
8)
ANDY,
That be a big NO!
Sorry Andy, nice try. Once it is on the layout, i'll take you some nice pics.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
YES, on taking some nice pictures of the loco on your layout. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2016, 06:06:37 PM
Quote from: Erieman on January 26, 2016, 04:56:52 PM
Quote from: ak-milw on January 25, 2016, 08:22:30 PM
Tom, That's way to nice to send to Frank. I think you should put a Milwaukee decal on it and send it to me.
8)
ANDY,
That be a big NO!
Sorry Andy, nice try. Once it is on the layout, i'll take you some nice pics.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
YES, on taking some nice pictures of the loco on your layout. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
No worries about that. I am working on a spread on my railroad, to be announced in the future, but you can be assured that this Forum will see pics first. No worries there my friend. If they come out good, and i know they will, I'll send you some large prints (13" x 19").
Frank / Erieman
I guess I can settle for pictures.
Tom, if you want to do a Milwaukee one let me know. I think (hope) I have a line on a Milwaukee 2-8-2 by Overland.
8)
Tom,
Thanks for sharing your custom loco painting skills !
The locomotive you did for Frank looks really looks nice and your ACL fleet of steamers are all Best of Show winners . 8)
Tom
Tom
Great work! So what do you do in your spare time?
Quote from: ak-milw on January 26, 2016, 08:57:49 PM
I guess I can settle for pictures.
Tom, if you want to do a Milwaukee one let me know. I think (hope) I have a line on a Milwaukee 2-8-2 by Overland.
8)
Andy,
Let me know what you are looking at. If it is an Ebay offering you need to be very careful and knw what youy are getting. If you have an Ebay item # let me know and I'll check it for you. Also, early Overland made crappy brass locos.
I've know some Ebayer to spray brass locos with brass paint and pass it off as something it isn't. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 27, 2016, 03:45:46 AM
Tom,
Thanks for sharing your custom loco painting skills !
The locomotive you did for Frank looks really looks nice and your ACL fleet of steamers are all Best of Show winners . 8)
Tom
Tom,
You are very welcome and thank you for the very kind words, much appreciated.
I'm very pleased you are enjoying the thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 27, 2016, 09:22:35 AM
Tom
Great work! So what do you do in your spare time?
John,
Thanks very much. I appreciate you stopping by. Spare time, what is that? ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Tom , haven't said a thing yet in this thread , why , because every time I wanted to type something my jaw would drop on the keyboard, now I taped my jaw solid so I can finally tell you how great this thread is , Wonderful Oh Wonderful.
Thanks Tom it's # 111882891018. I have over half a weeks pay check bid on it right now, can't go any higher.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 27, 2016, 08:20:36 PM
Tom , haven't said a thing yet in this thread , why , because every time I wanted to type something my jaw would drop on the keyboard, now I taped my jaw solid so I can finally tell you how great this thread is , Wonderful Oh Wonderful.
Jan,
You are very kind my friend. Thank you for the kind words as well, very much appreciated. This has been fun but I'm not done yet!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ak-milw on January 27, 2016, 08:26:24 PM
Thanks Tom it's # 111882891018. I have over half a weeks pay check bid on it right now, can't go any higher.
Andy,
I'll send you a PM concerning the loco.
Tom ;D
Tom,
I've enjoyed this thread build for sure, I only have one thing to say at this point.
https://youtu.be/uvUL28Skt6E
Thanx Thom...
Quote from: tct855 on January 28, 2016, 08:59:55 AM
Tom,
I've enjoyed this thread build for sure, I only have one thing to say at this point.
Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Thank you very much. I appreciate your support. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Here's as quick update on Frank's loco.
I started the sound installation this morning prior to going to the airport to drop off a friend.
I'm installing a Heavy Locomotive Tsunami decoder. This loco would qualify for a medium one as well but I like the whistles on the heavy loco decoder. This decoder came out of my ACL R1 4-8-4.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163826.jpeg)
I positioned the 8 ohm speaker on the tender deck and glued it in place.
I made a test fit while the glue was still wet to make sure it was in fact the correct position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163843.jpeg)
Since there is a slight opening in the coal bunker I needed to block it off so the coal load will not fill the opening.
I started by cutting a piece of cardboard to fit the opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163900.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163920.jpeg)
I cut the insert a little long so it would not fit length wise in the tender. You can see it slopes from back to front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163939.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I then added some glue to the edges of the cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116163955.jpeg)
I then placed the tender on an angle so the glue would dry flat and not all run to the front of the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116164008.jpeg)
Continued tomorrow.
I forgot to add this little part to today's thread. For the best electrical contact I can get between the tender trucks and the tender bolsters, I polish both areas. In the photo below you can see the top tender truck has been polished and the one on the bottom hasn't.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-300116170519.jpeg)
HE'S BACK!!!
Tom ,
I was starting to worry! Only kidding. Glad to see your progress. I just can't stop drooling. The anticipation is too - too much. Keep up the wonderful work, my friend.
Also, too many wifey projects currently keeping me busy.
Frank / Erieman
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 31, 2016, 10:14:14 AM
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Hell no, I'll keep drooling long after the engine is on my layout. Tom is doing a wonderful job on it. My wife has thought for years that I should be in a padded room. Hmmn what about a padded train room. Imagine the possibilities.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on January 30, 2016, 05:49:35 PM
HE'S BACK!!!
Tom ,
I was starting to worry! Only kidding. Glad to see your progress. I just can't stop drooling. The anticipation is too - too much. Keep up the wonderful work, my friend.
Also, too many wifey projects currently keeping me busy.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Thanks very much, I appreciate the kind words. I'll have more to show this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 31, 2016, 10:14:14 AM
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Well, if drooling causes us to be in the padded wall room then I say get the room ready. There's room for you too Gregory!
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 31, 2016, 10:56:00 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 31, 2016, 10:14:14 AM
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Hell no, I'll keep drooling long after the engine is on my layout. Tom is doing a wonderful job on it. My wife has thought for years that I should be in a padded room. Hmmn what about a padded train room. Imagine the possibilities.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
It appears Greg lives in a glass house. I still have drool stains on the carpet from his drooling over a little $300.00 (worth $750.00) brass loco I sold him. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Erieman on January 31, 2016, 10:56:00 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 31, 2016, 10:14:14 AM
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Hell no, I'll keep drooling long after the engine is on my layout. Tom is doing a wonderful job on it. My wife has thought for years that I should be in a padded room. Hmmn what about a padded train room. Imagine the possibilities.
Frank / Erieman
Sounds like a good plan to me.....Pegi has been threatening to put me in one for decades..... ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 31, 2016, 11:57:21 AM
Quote from: Erieman on January 31, 2016, 10:56:00 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 31, 2016, 10:14:14 AM
Will you quit with the drooling already.....you're wife will put you in a place with padded walls and you won't be able to get to your layout. ;D ;D ;D
Greg,
Hell no, I'll keep drooling long after the engine is on my layout. Tom is doing a wonderful job on it. My wife has thought for years that I should be in a padded room. Hmmn what about a padded train room. Imagine the possibilities.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
It appears Greg lives in a glass house. I still have drool stains on the carpet from his drooling over a little $300.00 (worth $750.00) brass loco I sold him. 8)
Tom ;D
You got that right.....I'll bring a big drool towel with me this week when I get to run it with the WOW sound you and Bill put in it for me. ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8)
Masterful work Tom....I hope you will give us a video of the completed engine when done. Afterall photos are great for structures since they don't move (well most don't) but motive power needs to be shown, well, moving.
Donato,
Thanks for the very kind words on the project. I'm nearing the end. A video is what I have in mind also. As soon as I learn to post a video I'll start doing some.
Tom ;D
The next project on Frank's loco is the installation of firebox/ballast lights. I use 12 volt ballast lights from PBL. PBL are the folks that sold the PBL Foreground Sound units. They were developed by Bob Longnecker for PBL. Bob Longnecker is the gentleman that invented the first PFM Sound System I for Don Drew of PFM (Pacific Fast Mail).
Anyway, the picture follows as we all love photos. Please note, the $4.00 price is a 15 year old price.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172343.jpeg)
I use the orange and red lights together as it gives a more realistic fire look.
I wire the bulbs in parallel as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172400.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I install the lights on the front end of the motor depending on the depth of the loco firebox.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172418.jpeg)
When lit, the bulbs give a nice orange/red glow.
After test fitting these on the front of the motor, I found they wouldn't fit as the loco boiler wouldn't fit over the motor and the lights. No problem! I moved the lights to the bottom side of the motor. One on one side and the other on the other. Hey, that sounded like a little double speak.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172436.jpeg)
Since I won't be able to use the bulbs side by side, I'll go with either two red or two orange. I'll test the lights and go with what is more natural.
A little information here on the lights being used with DCC. The bulbs are 12 volts and can be soldered directly to the + & - motor poles. This way the bulbs will burn all the time the loco is running.
However, I prefer to wire the bulbs to one of the DCC decoder functions. This way the user, in this case Frank, has the choice to turn them on and off while the loco is running. And, because they are 12 volts a 330 Ohm resister isn't necessary to be wired to one side of the bulb lead.
Continued in a few.
Time for the coal load so I got my jar of fake coal. I use the fake coal as a bottom layer only. Once the bottom layer is in place and the DCC is installed I'll add the official looking coal to the tender bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172450.jpeg)
I spread some yellow glue on top of the cardboard I previously glued in the coal bunker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172504.jpeg)
I then added the fake coal and set it aside to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172519.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Okay, all is well at this point so it's now time to install the DCC decoder.
I glued the speaker in place and then began the DCC wirding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172534.jpeg)
Looks like a bowl of spaghetti wiring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310116172550.jpeg)
More in a few.
The sound was installed and I programmed the decoder. It sounded great, nice sharp and clear. All functions worked. However, when placed on the track for a test run, it ran like crap. So I was thinking CRAP, what now! Actually I didn't say or think crap but I can't say it here.
The loco kept stopping and starting and ran in a jerking move. I traced the problem to a brake shoe shorting on the rear driver tire. I spoke to Frank and a decision was made to shave a little brass off the shoe to see if this didn't either solve the problem or at least help. Shaving the brake shoe did help but it didn't solve the jerking movement.
I removed the boiler, motor and gear box. The loco and the side rods then rolled very smooth. It appears the problem is the old gear box. It isn't the original gear box and appears to be an after market one.
I discussed this with Frank and the decision was made to send the loco to North West Shore Line for repairs. I can replace the motor but I won't replace the gear box which includes replacing the gear on the driver axle. Just to many bad things can go wrong. Darryl at NWSL is a professional and does this type of repair for a living.
No need to have a $400.00+ paint job on a loco and not have it run like a swiss watch.
I'll call Darryl tomorrow and this thread will be on hold for at least the next five week.
Thank you to all who have been following.
I have another brass project of my own and I'll post it here if anyone wants to see more of this type repair and painting. I actually stared this other project way back in 2012, three years ago but got side tracked when removing the old layout and starting the new one.
The original thread was started at the request of Massiveralph!
Tom ;D
Post it up Tom, I would like to see it.
8)
I'll call Darryl tomorrow and this thread will be on hold for at least the next five weeks.
Tom
Boo Hoo or should I say ouch!I have complete faith in you decision. Ask Darryl if there is any chance to move the date to coincide with my birthday. Only asking. It's so beautiful. You are doing it right, my friend. I can wait.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
We'll get it fixed, not to worry. 8)
Tom ;D
Tom,
What me worry? Not when you are on the case!!! :)
Frank / Erieman
A few years back, the Morristown and Erie RR purchased a D&RG Class M-78 4-8-2. The M&E owner decided to have the loco rebuilt by the Atantic and Southern RR. A request was made to paint the loco using the Erie logo but the cab number remained number 5319. Once that work was complete, it was taken out for the initial test run. It was soon discovered that a mechanical problem existed with the loco. That repair was beyond the expertise of the A&S RR crew.
The new Erie, cab #5319, was to be sent to the North West Short Line for repairs. A local railroad fan caught this Erie locomotive on main line of the Atlantic and Southern RR.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160541.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160557.jpeg)
Looks like the M&E RR crew are getting ready for the trip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160615.jpeg)
Our rail fan was sure busy with his camera!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160632.jpeg)
He climbed on the ACL caboose to get this photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160649.jpeg)
ACL Class P-5a pacific, #1559 was caught backing to the 5319.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160703.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160717.jpeg)
The two locos coupled to the caboose.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160733.jpeg)
Our rail fan wanted to get a photo of the ACL pacific pulling the Morristown & Erie loco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160748.jpeg)
The engineer has turned on the headlight so the train is now on the move.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010216160803.jpeg)
As of 1400 hrs., the new Erie #5319 was on the way to Hamilton, MT for the necessary repairs.
More to follow as needed.
I am totally speechless. Awesome my friend. Not enough words to express mt gratitude for the beautiful work you are doing.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on February 01, 2016, 05:15:56 PM
I am totally speechless. Awesome my friend. Not enough words to express mt gratitude for the beautiful work you are doing.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
I'm humbled by your kind remarks on the painting of your loco. Thanks very much my friend.
The Erie, Mountain has arrived in Hamilton, MT.
More to follow.
Tom ;D
Well, yesterday I broke Frank's heart concerning this locomotive. No, it wasn't dropped, stolen, lost in the mail or any thing like that. Heck, I feel bad just telling the story. I wish it were stolen as I had it insured for $900.00. At least I could have given Frank the $900.00.
The loco can't be repaired in it's current condition.
I sent it off for a new gear box and motor. The gear box didn't need replacement but it did get a new NWSL motor.
The loco isn't smooth at all at low speeds. But speed it up to 30,35-40 and it runs fine. When I got the loco back from NWSL it ran fairly smooth but then it acted as if one of more drivers were out of quarter.
I again removed all the side rods and drivers. I checked each driver and all were in quarter. When putting the side rods back on, I noticed the rod holes were a little elliptical. This was the issue all along and I missed it.
When the side rods have worn in the middle or become elliptical, the locomotive acts as if the drivers are out of quarter.
At a higher speed they get in a motion and work as they should.
Nothing will fix the loco short of a new set of side rods.
Continued in a few.
When I removed the coal load from the loco I notice the coal was only glued at the surface. I stuck a small screwdriver in the coal load and all the loose coal came out.
You'll need sunglasses to view the next picture. I caught all the loose coal in a bright green plastic box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154756.jpeg)
Here, this is better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154727.jpeg)
Here is the tender with the base for the coal load.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154742.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Here's a look at the new coal load using the old coal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154855.jpeg)
You can see some of the coal has spilled onto the tender deck around the dog house. I looks like the brakeman left a chain on the tender.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154912.jpeg)
Well, it's one good looking bad running Erie locomotive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154824.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200316154839.jpeg)
Up next is the used but not abused weathering.
What a wonderful paint job. Sorry for all the problems that this engine came with. I guess the next time I buy any brass, I know to call you first. Really looking forward to see this beautiful engine running on the railroad. Who know, I might find another engine just like this one with good rods. Thank you for all you wonderful work. I'd buy you a drink in Boston, but neither of us drink. Maybe we will find an interesting structure. Again, thank you for all your wonderful work and looking forward to seeing you and your buddies at the Expo.
Safe travels.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on March 20, 2016, 05:25:54 PM
What a wonderful paint job. Sorry for all the problems that this engine came with. I guess the next time I buy any brass, I know to call you first. Really looking forward to see this beautiful engine running on the railroad. Who know, I might find another engine just like this one with good rods. Thank you for all you wonderful work. I'd buy you a drink in Boston, but neither of us drink. Maybe we will find an interesting structure. Again, thank you for all your wonderful work and looking forward to seeing you and your buddies at the Expo.
Safe travels.
Frank / Erieman
Frank,
Even with all the issues, I thoroughly enjoyed the project. As I said, if nothing else, it looks good. And, you are very welcome and I think we are all looking forward to the EXPO!
Tom ;D
It should be possible to drill the rod bearings out and bush them, which would be less trouble than making new rods. Might require lathe work to make the new bushings if standard tube sizes wouldn't give you a usable O.D.
Tom ...
Depending on the available wall thickness of the side rods, consider this. Find a brass rod or tubing that has as OD enough to stuff up the hole. The ID is not important yet. This works really well with solid rod. Then open the worn side rod to something less than the bar stock. A minus 1 fit should be enough. Then press in the bar stock or flash solder it in. Dress down both sides to flat to the side rods.
Now here is the trick part. Take a vernier caliper and measure the space over the two axles that the side rod will finish up on. Then subtract ONE axle diameter and you will have the exact centers of the axles. That then becomes the center to center for the rod openings.
Mark out the location and drill out the ID for the wheel screw. Can't miss.
I never get too alarmed by the brass bushing in the rod as many manufacturers used coined brass for the rods and plated them for the appearance of steel. If you want to have an unlike material for the bushing then pick what ever material as the insert material.
Let me know if this is not clear.
See ya
Bob
I imagine we will soon be reading how Tom mastered Bob's technique of bushing the out of round rods.
Bob
Quote from: jbvb on March 20, 2016, 08:46:09 PM
It should be possible to drill the rod bearings out and bush them, which would be less trouble than making new rods. Might require lathe work to make the new bushings if standard tube sizes wouldn't give you a usable O.D.
James,
Way beyond my expertise. However, the challenge does challenge me a bit. Although I don't have a lathe.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on March 20, 2016, 10:35:20 PM
Tom ...
Depending on the available wall thickness of the side rods, consider this. Find a brass rod or tubing that has as OD enough to stuff up the hole. The ID is not important yet. This works really well with solid rod. Then open the worn side rod to something less than the bar stock. A minus 1 fit should be enough. Then press in the bar stock or flash solder it in. Dress down both sides to flat to the side rods.
Now here is the trick part. Take a vernier caliper and measure the space over the two axles that the side rod will finish up on. Then subtract ONE axle diameter and you will have the exact centers of the axles. That then becomes the center to center for the rod openings.
Mark out the location and drill out the ID for the wheel screw. Can't miss.
I never get too alarmed by the brass bushing in the rod as many manufacturers used coined brass for the rods and plated them for the appearance of steel. If you want to have an unlike material for the bushing then pick what ever material as the insert material.
Let me know if this is not clear.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
What you said makes perfect sense. It can be done but not by me. I don't have the time or the equipment to try this one.
Should I send you the loco? Ha.
Thanks for the information.
Tom ;D
Quote from: RWL on March 21, 2016, 08:34:01 AM
I imagine we will soon be reading how Tom mastered Bob's technique of bushing the out of round rods.
Bob
Bob,
I appreciate the confidence you have in me on this one. However, you won't be reading it from me. At least not in this life time.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 21, 2016, 09:21:45 AM
Quote from: bparrish on March 20, 2016, 10:35:20 PM
Tom ...
Depending on the available wall thickness of the side rods, consider this. Find a brass rod or tubing that has as OD enough to stuff up the hole. The ID is not important yet. This works really well with solid rod. Then open the worn side rod to something less than the bar stock. A minus 1 fit should be enough. Then press in the bar stock or flash solder it in. Dress down both sides to flat to the side rods.
Now here is the trick part. Take a vernier caliper and measure the space over the two axles that the side rod will finish up on. Then subtract ONE axle diameter and you will have the exact centers of the axles. That then becomes the center to center for the rod openings.
Mark out the location and drill out the ID for the wheel screw. Can't miss.
I never get too alarmed by the brass bushing in the rod as many manufacturers used coined brass for the rods and plated them for the appearance of steel. If you want to have an unlike material for the bushing then pick what ever material as the insert material.
Let me know if this is not clear.
See ya
Bob
Bob,
What you said makes perfect sense. It can be done but not by me. I don't have the time or the equipment to try this one.
Should I send you the loco?
Tom ;D
Good Morning Bob, Any chance I could convince you to fix this problem. As Tom mentioned, this beyond his scope and it is way beyond my scope. I would just hate to destroy the beautiful paint / detail job that Tom has done. Just asking. That's what forum friends are for.
Frank / Erieman
I second the motion to have Bob P. fix the side rods. After all we all know he loves a challenge, and an easy one for him as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 21, 2016, 11:54:41 AM
I second the motion to have Bob P. fix the side rods. After all we all know he loves a challenge, and an easy one for him as well.
Tom ;D
All those in favor, say "Aye". The Chair will recognize no Nay votes.
I'm from Massachusetts and this is the way things are done in our legislature.
Gents.......
Before we get too far down this road let's try one more thing that will clearly identify the problem. In my experience the holes need to be REALLY egg shaped to have much effect. Again...... look at how loose some manufacturers send out their products today and they run really well.
This is low rent but it will show up whether this is a problem. Clean the hole in the side rod and use a flux liquid. Don't depend on the rosin carried in what ever solder you are using. Then, solder the hole closed. That's right......... fill it up. ! ! ! !
Then measure the diameter of the blind area on the crank pin screw in the wheel. With that find a drill a few thousandths smaller than what you want. Open the hole back up and then "walk" into the diameter you really need plus one or two thousandths. The holes should be essentially round now.
Reassemble and oil it up with Labelle 108 or something similar.
Test it out......... Waddaya got ? ? ?
Understand that the solder material is really close to what babbit is (or was) on early side rods and journal bearings. It is also similar to what is still in car engine bearings, although without the nickel hardening alloy.
If it is better then this is or was the problem. If it still hunts a bit then the problem is elsewhere. Either way there is no harm done to run this test as the solder can be removed or ignored. Further it does not require the disassembly of the entire locomotive.
If it is better then run it ! ! ! It will take years of operation to run the side rod back egg shaped if kept lubed up. It probably took years of running to get it out to where it was and running it dry was probably a cause.
I tend to run my locomotives VERY dry but I don't pull long strings of cars in a continuous operation display mode as many of these old locos were used.
Let me know where it goes.
see ya
Bob
Bob
What have you got yourself into? The solder idea is a really good idea.
John.
You're right. I think I triggered the moose turd pie syndrome.
See ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 21, 2016, 01:20:47 PM
John.
You're right. I think I triggered the moose turd pie syndrome.
See ya
Bob
Okay,
I'll give it the old college try. I'll not do it until after the Expo. With Frank's permission that is.
Tom ;D
Allllllllllllllllllright Tom...
Thanx for letting me off the hook. I'm not sure I want the responsibility of sending the loco through the mail.
The postal mule here in downtown Idaho could get a flat.
You'll be OK
see ya
Bob