Hello All,
Since my SWSM Railroad Camp dio is almost finish, I've begin a new project for the port district of my futur layout . The building is largely (completely?) inspired by the Graves building Kit from Barmills, and will be placed just at right of the Redhook complex.
After a little bit more of two years to just building kit, I've decide to reconnect with scratchbuilding and a new challenge : plaster molding
First I've make a complete draw of all pieces needed with the maximum of accuracy. For that I've learn to use Corel Draw X7, and after some try, I've a lot of fun with it. Then I've printed the draw and glue them on 4 ply bristol, and cut them to make template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-240116104746-108101160.jpeg)
Then, I've used this template to make mold in styren, All the mold are 1/4" deep. I haven't inventted anything in the conception of these molds, because I have followed the instructions given by Doug Foscale in one of his video (volume 6 : Masonry wall technique)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-240116104746-10877935.jpeg)
then I've filled the mold with plaster of Paris, after few research I,ve found the perfect recipe for plaster molding, with virtually no losses
first we must calculate the volume of the mold. the volume of the mold divide by 2 give the volume of water needed. Finally the volume of water multiplied by 3 give the volume of plaster needed. You can now fill the mold with this right quantity of plaster at the right consistency. Then shake the mold to remove any bubble air and let it dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-240116104746-108782352.jpeg)
When the plaster is dry, you can remove it from the mold. Casting on a styrene sheet Is not recommended for long and narrow pieces because they are carving during drying process. I think that my styrene sheet isn't rigid enough. SO after lost and broke many pieces ( about 20 % of the pieces needed), I've decide to make the mold on a glasses, that give a better result due to his rigidity.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-240116104746-108792255.jpeg)
Finally I've begin to engrave the brick on the wall, and sanded some angle on different section of the wall. Here's a pictures of all the plaster wall of this project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-240116104746-10880922.jpeg)
To be continued.
Eric Québec city
There is something I never tried, casting my own walls. Looks like they are coming out great.
8)
Tres bon!
dave
Wow Eric , true scratchbuilding, love to follow along.
Quote from: ak-milw on January 24, 2016, 11:53:49 AM
There is something I never tried, casting my own walls. Looks like they are coming out great.
8)
Thank you for your comment Andy, You must try casting a wall in plaster, it's more easier than it looks
Eric Québec city
Quote from: deemery on January 24, 2016, 01:22:59 PM
Tres bon!
dave
Thank you Dave for your comment, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec city
Quote from: Janbouli on January 24, 2016, 04:37:32 PM
Wow Eric , true scratchbuilding, love to follow along.
Thank you for your comment Janbouli, and thank you for following along.,
Eric Quebec city
I doubt many people scratch build a masonry structure. Great work.
Jeff
Eric, you are indeed a patient man! Cool.
Watching with interest, Eric. I really like the look of this structure. You are off to a fantastic start!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 24, 2016, 10:39:00 PM
I doubt many people scratch build a masonry structure. Great work.
Jeff
Thank you for your comment Jeff, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec
Quote from: martin.ojaste on January 25, 2016, 09:21:46 AM
Eric, you are indeed a patient man! Cool.
Thank for your comment Martin.
I'm not really patient, but there're some task (like gluying individual wood shingle or carving brick) that people said Boring, that I like to do. this kind of task, long, slow and repetitive bring me a kind serenity and a special pleasure to see the work progress.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 25, 2016, 01:15:58 PM
Watching with interest, Eric. I really like the look of this structure. You are off to a fantastic start!
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark, thank you for following this thread and for your comment.
Eric Québec city
Eric,
This is a great structure and I'm enjoying the process. Fantastic start!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 25, 2016, 06:00:51 PM
Eric,
This is a great structure and I'm enjoying the process. Fantastic start!
Tom ;D
Thank you very much for your comment Tom :)
Eric Québec city
Eric,
Neat building ...
I had to read the thread because your bricks / stones that you carved in the plaster looks like Ed Fulasz's work ! 8)
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 27, 2016, 03:39:12 AM
Eric,
Neat building ...
I had to read the thread because your bricks / stones that you carved in the plaster looks like Ed Fulasz's work ! 8)
Tom
Thank you for your compliment Tom, but my work is far from the quality of molding and engraving of that from Ed Fulasz
Eric Québec city
Hello All,
After almost a month, time to upgrade this thread with the progress made on this project.
First I've sanded a line on the wall that will be glue perpendicular to the 4 floor wall with door. The purpose of this sande line is to insert a plastic I beam to simule the rail of the lift. For that task I've take a 8 x14 basswood strip cover on the 8 side with double face tape and a small strip of sanding paper
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216090820-11493415.jpeg)
then I've primed all the plaster part with Krylon red oxide paint. And let it dry overnight. During this time, with my small miter saw (buy from micromark, in fact it's the same that John Siekirk have and you that you can see on one of his pictures), I've cut some piece of 15/64 sq basswood at various angle for helping the assembly of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216090821-115032138.jpeg)
Then I've begin to to paint the wall. First I've cover all the wall with my "brick base" color, in fact it's a mix of 80 % Georgia clay color and 20 charcoal grey. Once dry, I paint several individual birck with various shade of color between the Georgia clay and the Charcoal grey. The lintel on top of the door is paint with unbleached white titanium color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216090821-11504707.jpeg).
Finally I've do the doors with some basswood strip wood that was stained with AI solution and paint in titanium white color with a terry clothe. The mortar line is mad with Rembrandt Chalk, the most clear Raw Umber color (408.10). At this step I've glue the plastic I Beam in place. The Beam is paint in flat black and rusted with a pencil lightly dipped in Raw Umber paint,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216090821-11505282.jpeg)
Then, I've scratchbuild a door for the main entrance of the building. I've be very inspired from the doors that we found on several kit of G. Sellios. SO I've make a very accurate draw of the door with Corel Draw and scratchbuild the door with several size of basswood strip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216090821-115061474.jpeg)
Then I've glue real glass behind the door and glue the door in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091014-11507529.jpeg)
To be continued
Then I've begin to assemble all the part of the building in exception of the large rear wall, that need to be paint before ( not begin at this time, because It will be a paint challenge for me, I think I do it next week ... )
In begin I've try to glue the part together with WeldBond glue ( that was a very strong glue, that can glue resin part or glass...) but the final result is still very fragile., and FInally I've opted for 2 part epoxy glue.
I've encounter another problem during the assembly. When I drew the plan of all the parts , I did not take into account the Increase of the length owed in joints of gluying (In my cas, this increase is about 3" scale). What made that the last part ( the large rear wall) Did not fit any more in the available space.
SO I've must to disassemble the right corner of the building and thin this side about 3"scale.
Here's somes pictures of the assembly of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091014-115081964.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091014-115092455.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091014-11510207.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091014-115111533.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-200216091102.jpeg)
I must said that I'm not totally satisfied with the result at this time. I don't like the joint between each part. SO I think I will cover all the first floor with Stucco.
That's all for today.
Thank you for viewing
Eric Québec city
Before you cover all that great brickwork with stucco, try this: Put some masking tape on each side of the corner to leave maybe 1/16 - 2mm gap. Then mix up some relatively thin plaster and brush it to fill the crack. That might provide enough fill to make you happy.
dave
Looking great Eric.
certainly give Dave's solution a try, but if you are not happy and want to cover with stucco it might be nice to have the stucco fallen off in random patches to expose some of your brickwork (and hard work!) underneath.
Cheers, Mark.
Brickwork looks super, will be a very nice structure when finished.
Quote from: deemery on February 20, 2016, 11:19:57 AM
Before you cover all that great brickwork with stucco, try this: Put some masking tape on each side of the corner to leave maybe 1/16 - 2mm gap. Then mix up some relatively thin plaster and brush it to fill the crack. That might provide enough fill to make you happy.
dave
Thank you for this solution, I will try it for sure when I will assemble the back wall with the second wall from right in the last picture,
Eric Québec city
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 20, 2016, 02:42:13 PM
Looking great Eric.
certainly give Dave's solution a try, but if you are not happy and want to cover with stucco it might be nice to have the stucco fallen off in random patches to expose some of your brickwork (and hard work!) underneath.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark, you right it the way I plan to apply the stucco.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: Twopoint2 on February 20, 2016, 02:57:47 PM
Brickwork looks super, will be a very nice structure when finished.
Thank you for your comment Jim. I appeciate it
Eric Québec city
Looking great Eric, but I wouldn't expect anything else from you.
To me it would be a shame to cover that great brick work up.
8)
Eric,
I hope you can keep the brick work. It makes such big difference.
The gaps is the reason I always glue brick walls (plaster or resin) together first, fill the gaps, and only then paint.
Vilius
Eric...
As noted above...... give filling the joints with something a try. You can use spackle, dilute hydrocal or squadron putty. I like squadron putty as it is really fast drying.
Below is a shot of Jimmy's Fallberg that I did in a how to some years ago. I filled the corner seams and carved over them.
Worked out pretty well.
see ya
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-220216114041.jpeg)
Quote from: Janbouli on February 21, 2016, 06:24:08 PM
Looking great Eric, but I wouldn't expect anything else from you.
THank you very much for your comment Janbouli, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec city
Quote from: ak-milw on February 21, 2016, 09:09:55 PM
To me it would be a shame to cover that great brick work up.
8)
Thank you for your opinion about This subject. I must confess after read all your comment, that I'm not really sure, finally, to cover the first floor with stucco. I Think, I will try, for begin to fill the gap and paint this patch, regarding the final result, I will take a final decision.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: TheUkranian on February 22, 2016, 07:42:33 AM
Eric,
I hope you can keep the brick work. It makes such big difference.
The gaps is the reason I always glue brick walls (plaster or resin) together first, fill the gaps, and only then paint.
Vilius
Hey Vilius, Thank for your comment. and thank you for this technique I will applied it for my next building in plaster.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: bparrish on February 22, 2016, 11:45:31 AM
Eric...
As noted above...... give filling the joints with something a try. You can use spackle, dilute hydrocal or squadron putty. I like squadron putty as it is really fast drying.
Below is a shot of Jimmy's Fallberg that I did in a how to some years ago. I filled the corner seams and carved over them.
Worked out pretty well.
see ya
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-220216114041.jpeg)
Thank you Bob for your comment. Your picture is probably the final argument which missed me so that I decide to try to fill the gap on the wall..
Pictures will be posted when do.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on February 22, 2016, 05:13:23 PM
Quote from: TheUkranian on February 22, 2016, 07:42:33 AM
Eric,
I hope you can keep the brick work. It makes such big difference.
The gaps is the reason I always glue brick walls (plaster or resin) together first, fill the gaps, and only then paint.
Vilius
Hey Vilius, Thank for your comment. and thank you for this technique I will applied it for my next building in plaster.
Eric Québec city
Eric
I just wanted to add that I too agree with Vilius - any future builds with plaster walls I will assemble fill and then paint.
Eric,
Great build and I'll be watching the thread as well. I believe filling the corners of any gaps prior to painting is an excellent idea. Not only that but it only makes sense.
Tom ;D
This is an awesome build Eric. I'm amazed by the color of your brickwork. It looks perfect to me. :D
Looking good Eric.....I'll continue to follow this one. 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on February 22, 2016, 08:13:13 PM
Quote from: EricQuebec on February 22, 2016, 05:13:23 PM
Quote from: TheUkranian on February 22, 2016, 07:42:33 AM
Eric,
I hope you can keep the brick work. It makes such big difference.
The gaps is the reason I always glue brick walls (plaster or resin) together first, fill the gaps, and only then paint.
Vilius
Hey Vilius, Thank for your comment. and thank you for this technique I will applied it for my next building in plaster.
Eric Québec city
Eric
I just wanted to add that I too agree with Vilius - any future builds with plaster walls I will assemble fill and then paint.
Hi John, thank you for your comment. I can't believe That I've not thinking about that before ...... Duh...
Eric Québec city
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 23, 2016, 06:58:38 AM
Eric,
Great build and I'll be watching the thread as well. I believe filling the corners of any gaps prior to painting is an excellent idea. Not only that but it only makes sense.
Tom ;D
Thank you for your comment Yom. Yesterday, I've fill the gap with drywall compound, not time today to dedicate to models... maybe tomorrow I will rcarve this part.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 23, 2016, 07:35:59 AM
This is an awesome build Eric. I'm amazed by the color of your brickwork. It looks perfect to me. :D
Thank You very much for your comment Bob, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec city
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2016, 08:50:39 AM
Looking good Eric.....I'll continue to follow this one. 8)
Thank you very much for your kind word Gregory. It's appreciate.
Eric Québec city
Hello All,
As discussed here, I've decide to give a chance to the brick wall and apply the technic exposed by number of you. first I've cover the wall with masking tape, to let apparent just the joint that need to be filling, and fill the crack with joint compound
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085424-11940111.jpeg)
Once the stuff is completely dry, I've sanded it slightly and redo th brick work on it. On the next pictures, you can see at right and on the middle this work. On the left side, the work need to be do.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085424-119451500.jpeg)
I've decide to don't paint it yet. In fact I will wait to have glue the last wall in place and make the joint too.
And naturally, for to be able to glu the last wall in place, it's necessary that is be completed. SO finish it yet. FOr this wall I want a large sign. I've choose the classic «Old Dutch cleanser» ad, because it's a very colorful sign, and it appear to be relatively simple to paint it directly on the wall with the stencil method.
First I've print several copy of the sign, with for mark to cut it exactly at the same dimension.
The I've cover a small glass with masking tape and glue the sign on the masking tape with school glu stick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085425-119461831.jpeg)
Then I've cut a frrame around the sign, and unstuck this frame from the glass to apply it on the wall. This frame will be still in place during all the process of painting and act as guide to apply the other form at the right place on the ad.. Then I,ve remove to top portion of the ad, and apply the other part on the wall to mask the bottom part of the ad. and with a synthetic sponge, I've paint the top portion with red acrylic color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085425-119471645.jpeg)
With the same technic, I've cut the lettering. You can note that the cut is not really perfect, but it does not matter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085425-119481951.jpeg)
Then I've apply thos new stencil in place and paint the lettering, ever with the sponge with white color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316103202.jpeg)
following the same technic, ive apply all the color of the sign. Here's a step by step progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085641-11951960.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085641-119521842.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085641-119501334.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085641-11953431.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085819-119541588.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085819-119552420.jpeg)
Then, with a very fine black pen, I've make the small lettering that can't be painted with stencil method.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085819-11956465.jpeg).
And for finish, I've lightly apply here and there the color mix of the brick with a sponge on the ad.
here's the final result.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085820-119571924.jpeg)
Next I've cut all the wall that are in clapboard and distress it with several method, principally those who are exposed by brett in his SWSM kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085820-119581361.jpeg)
Then I've stain the wall with AI solution. Once dry, I've paint the wall with a very thin wash of Light grey. then Paint it in vintage white with a sponge and finally repaint some plank with Eggshell white (as exposed by Bob van Gelder kit)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085906-1195959.jpeg)
The window are paint in vintage white, and I've apply real glass on it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085906-11960408.jpeg)
Finally, I've glue the last door in place to complete the large wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-130316085906-119611635.jpeg)
The last wall is now ready to be glu in place, but that is an other story.
That's all for today. Thanks for viewing and don't hesitate to comment.
To be continued....
Eric Québec city
Outstanding!!
Beautiful workmanship, Eric.
Also very interesting to watch you working and dealing with problems. The stencil work was very interesting. I always look forward to your posts - as you always present something a little different to the norm.
Cheers, Mark.
WOW, nothing like really painting the sign on the wall. excellent job!!
Quote from: Donato on March 13, 2016, 11:28:39 AM
Outstanding!!
Thanks for your compliment Donato.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: mark dalrymple on March 13, 2016, 02:31:17 PM
Beautiful workmanship, Eric.
Also very interesting to watch you working and dealing with problems. The stencil work was very interesting. I always look forward to your posts - as you always present something a little different to the norm.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you very much Mark,
For me, trying new technique or something different in each project is an important and probably one of the most funny part of the hobby.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: ak-milw on March 13, 2016, 06:16:04 PM
WOW, nothing like really painting the sign on the wall. excellent job!!
Thank you for you comment ANdy, I much appreciate it.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: ak-milw on March 13, 2016, 06:16:04 PM
WOW, nothing like really painting the sign on the wall. excellent job!!
Eric,
Yep, ditto from here as well.
Tom ;D
Eric, I really like this thread. A lot of different techniques and ideas regarding a lot of different building methods. I see you are combining the methods of the masters with your own creative touches. The stenciled "Old Dutch" sign is a beauty. Don't cover any of the brick with stucco- the brick looks too good to do that. If the fix doesn't work, cover with a downspout, vines, etc.
Great job and thanks for sharing your work so we can all learn.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 14, 2016, 07:30:29 PM
Quote from: ak-milw on March 13, 2016, 06:16:04 PM
WOW, nothing like really painting the sign on the wall. excellent job!!
Eric,
Yep, ditto from here as well.
Tom ;D
Hey Tom,
Thank you very much for your comment :)
Eric Québec city
Quote from: Mike Engler on March 15, 2016, 10:32:27 AM
Eric, I really like this thread. A lot of different techniques and ideas regarding a lot of different building methods. I see you are combining the methods of the masters with your own creative touches. The stenciled "Old Dutch" sign is a beauty. Don't cover any of the brick with stucco- the brick looks too good to do that. If the fix doesn't work, cover with a downspout, vines, etc.
Great job and thanks for sharing your work so we can all learn.
Thank you very much for your compliment Mike, I much appreciate it.
I"ve begin to re-paint the part of the brick work that was filled with the compound. pictures comes later.
Eric Québec city
Hi everybody,
There's long time since I've update this thread. The reason is simple, I've do a two week trip in France, and since my return to work I had to do a lot of over time.
But, there're a lot of progress on this project.
First I've glue with epoxy the last plaster wall on the structure. Wall that fit almost perfectly after some minor correction with sanding paper
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162543-13104827.jpeg)
Then, I,ve glue a 4x8 strip wood on the top of the first floof brick work to make a kind of footing for the clapboard wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162544-131222254.jpeg)
and finally I've glue the wood wall on the plaster base with epoxy glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162729-13123904.jpeg)
As you can see, the top of the clapboard piece was sanded to make place for the cornice.
For the cornice I've used several size of wood strip ( 8 x 14; 4 x 4 ; 4 x 8; 2 x 6) and some pieces that I've found at my hobby store severals years ago in the wood Boat models section.
Once the cornice assembled, I've stain it with AI solution and paint it in vintage white. Here's 3 pictures of the progress of the work. FInally, I've cut the cornice pieces at 45 deg. with my electric small miter saw.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162543-131192074.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162544-131201685.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162544-131212346.jpeg)
To be continued (1/2)
(2/2)
Once the pieces of cornice are cutting, I've glue them in place. here'S some pictures of the wall with cornice. On the first pictures you can see that the right portion of the cornice is topped with a large strip of 1/32 thick wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162729-131241789.jpeg)
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(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162729-13125517.jpeg)
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Then, I,ve paint a large sign on the last wall.
After some reflection and meditation I've decide to finally change the name of the brewery. The name, that was «Old Artic Squid Brewery» is now Know as « The Great Old Ones Brewery», that reflect a little more the «Lovecraft» approach that I want for my futur Layout. The second benefit of this choice is that need little less letters to be paint on the wall a let more place to paint a logo. For the Logo I've found a very stylish Squid on google. After few test, I've constat that I don't be able to make the lettering by using the stencil method, so I've decide to draw the letters on cigarette paper
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162729-131261250.jpeg)
and the logo was paint with an home made stencil. Here's the final result of the sign on the wall
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162729-13127246.jpeg)
Once all the cornice and wall are in place I've make the flat roof that Ive cover with Tar paper. The tar paper is made as describe by DOug Foscale in his blog.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010516162811-131281811.jpeg)
That all for today
Feel free to comment, and thank you for watching.
To be continued
Eric QUebec city
This build is really getting out of hand. That is some fine work Eric.
I agree, That is some fine work.
Jim
Love it. Great, imaginative work! Thumbs up!
John
Wow - great work. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Thank you for sharing such great work Eric.
Quote from: ak-milw on May 01, 2016, 08:28:09 PM
This build is really getting out of hand. That is some fine work Eric.
Thank you Andy for your comment, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec city
Quote from: jimmillho on May 01, 2016, 09:53:50 PM
I agree, That is some fine work.
Jim
Thank you for your kinf words Jim, It's appreciate.
Eric Quebec city
Quote from: Cuse on May 01, 2016, 10:41:58 PM
Love it. Great, imaginative work! Thumbs up!
John
Thank you very much John, Hope you appreciate the final result too.... :)
Eric Québec city
Quote from: S&S RR on May 02, 2016, 10:11:19 AM
Wow - great work. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Thank you very much John, it 's a pleasure to share the progress of this project with all of you.
Eric Quebec city.
Quote from: Janbouli on May 02, 2016, 01:55:53 PM
Thank you for sharing such great work Eric.
Than you very much Janbouli for your comment.
Eric Québec city