As I work on completing structures till I have the space and time to build a layout, I would like to work on some dioramas. Thinking of using both foam and/or gatorfoam for the bases of the dioramas. When using gatorfoam and changes in elevation not really needed do you recommend just painting the gatorfoam and applying "dirt" in that manner or use a base of Sculptamold?
Chris
I apply dirt right to the foam after a thin layer of paint. It seem to work out the best for me. I haven't had a shrink or warp as of yet.
Personnaly, I cover always the foam with a thin layer of dry wall compound
Eric Quebec.
I paint the foam an earth color, after that anything goes for me: dirt on the foam, sculptamold, plaster/ compound.....
Bob C
Chris,
I always use 1/2" Gatorboard with a layer of 1" pink insulation board glued to the Gatorboard or maybe thicker insulation depending what I am going to do with it. Then like some others said, I paint the insulation and then add real dirt that has been sifted thru a nylon stocking. The sandwich of insulation and the gatorboard make a very stable base for your diorama instead of plywood which will probably warp on you.
Hi:
I use 1/2" Cabinet grade plywood. It never warps on me. Atleast it hasn't yet. My current project FSM Road Side Deligths is on a plywood base.
Karl
A friend of mine started a project using Gatorboard and reported he started feeling sick in his layout room. I looked up the MSDS and found it outgasses formaldehyde. He got diagnosed with formaldehyde sensitivity. It isn't that common, but if you have it, stay away from the stuff.
I've used pink/blue insulation with sculptamould and Gatorboard with sculptamold.
Last one I did I made up with Gatorboard. I needed the bottom to be an open box for some wiring and a speaker.
-slim
I tried using gator board once. When I glued dirt and grass to it it warped really bad. Since then I've been using 1/2" MDF and gluing 1" pink foam insulation to it. I glue it with Titebond glue and run a couple 1 1/4" drywall screws through it to hold it tight while the glue drys. Any elevations can be built up on top of the first layer of foam. I make about 6 or 8 up at a time. In the past 15 or so years I haven't had any problems with any of my dioramas warping or coming apart.
Hi All:
I'm using some new stuff I found as they were out of plywood the other day. It's also cheaper. Tried this 3/4 inch thick shelving material (its for shelving and I think building furniture). It is really great, it's very straight and does not warp. I think I still have the label and will let you guys know what it is if I can.
Karl
I prefer a high quality 3/4" plywood. It looks good and there is no way you are going to get any warping. Phil
Gents...
I was a part in building a new trolley module with two sections that gave us a four by five configuration. It's not the first one that we built. We wanted to stay away from anything plaster as it is too brittle for travel. We used seven ply half inch cabinet grade ply wood. It is real stable and isn't too heavy. I direct glued all of the scenicing stuff, dirt, grass and rocks directly to the board with no sealer.
One half of the module is a raised grade and we cut and ramped the plywood. To fill the space I sprayed that crazy foam stuff. The only down side is that it is international orange so it was a bit hard to cover. It glazes over to a smooth skin but by the time I shaved it off to shape it there was an open cell texture that really takes the glue.
The railroad has taken several moves now and has needed no touch ups.
see ya
Bob
Tried something out recently....had a piece of 1/2 inch "zip-wall" sheathing laying around- its basically a chipboard material with a coating on it made for outside sheathing. the stuff is pretty stable and lays really flat. I painted the coated side with earth colored paint and used it for a diorama base. after all the scenery done its still laying totally flat (4 months). I had the piece in my garage for about 2 years and looked the same as when I bought it. its under $14 for a 4x8 sheet at my Home Depot. Think I will use it again....
bob c
Quote from: rpdylan on May 31, 2016, 12:48:17 PM
Tried something out recently....had a piece of 1/2 inch "zip-wall" sheathing laying around- its basically a chipboard material with a coating on it made for outside sheathing. the stuff is pretty stable and lays really flat. I painted the coated side with earth colored paint and used it for a diorama base. after all the scenery done its still laying totally flat (4 months). I had the piece in my garage for about 2 years and looked the same as when I bought it. its under $14 for a 4x8 sheet at my Home Depot. Think I will use it again....
bob c
Can you post a photo of what that stuff looks like (before you added the dirt? ;-)
thanks dave
Its this stuff... I used it when I built my shed and had some pieces left over. I used it with the coated side "up"- painted the green face with earth colored paint.
I used it on this dio that I never finished....
Sorry, I didn't exactly answer your question. No matter the base, I would paint it a brown color and add the dirt directly on top of the paint. If you don't paint, you have to add a lot more dirt to cover up the color of the base. 3/4" plywood offers a very neutral color that is easy to paint. Phil
Below are some photos of the trolley module that I was part of building. Although not complete with structures and population, you can see the terrain. There is no plaster and no base color paint.
You can get a sense of the grade elevations and the track plan.
see ya
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-310516161016-138191043.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-310516161016-13818709.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-310516161016-138171797.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-310516161016-138002012.jpeg)
Hi All:
Here is the wood I was telling you about. This is a 1 Sq. Foot piece and it's 3/4" thick. It comes from Lowe's and is for making furniture & shelves. It's Idaho Timber Stain grade solid wood panel.
I used it for my FOS Scale Models REA Freight station. It was a 3/4" X12" X30" piece. It was still nice and straight a week after I finished the diorama. It comes in several sizes. I will be using this stuff from now on.
Karl
Hi All:
Here's what the label looks like.
Karl
Quote from: rpdylan on May 31, 2016, 03:07:03 PM
Its this stuff... I used it when I built my shed and had some pieces left over. I used it with the coated side "up"- painted the green face with earth colored paint.
Thanks, that's interesting looking stuff!
dave
Karl, did you paint/seal that plywood before you started working on it?
dave
Quote from: postalkarl on May 31, 2016, 11:01:22 PM
Hi All:
Here's what the label looks like.
Karl
Karl
Interesting - I'm going to look for it here.
Hi Dave, & Rpdylan & John:
This is not plywood. It Is 3/4" X about 2" wide solid wood edge and end glued together. I did not seal it and I had no warping problem On a 12' X 30" piece.. There is not A coated side it is bare stainable wood.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on June 02, 2016, 07:39:36 AM
Hi Dave, & Rpdylan & John:
This is not plywood. It Is 3/4" X about 2" wide solid wood edge and end glued together. I did not seal it and I had no warping problem On a 12' X 30" piece.. There is not A coated side it is bare stainable wood.
Karl
Hey Karl-
I still don't get it- did you buy a piece that was 12x30, or did you cut it to that size from a larger piece? Or did
you edge-glue several pieces together to make it 12x30?
For me you need to draw a picture- it's like when you taught me how to post photos on the forum about ten years ago.
Hi Mike:
It comes from the store as described above. The piece I bought was 3/4" X 12" X 36". I had Lowe's cut a 6" piece off the end of it. As you can see in the label photo It comes in several sizes so you can build all kinds of shelves and funrniture with it. If you look at the 12" square piece photo you can see the glue joints sides & ends.
Karl